100% tested it today and so much better. I had my Pre load way too far cranked down. Felt sick in and out of corners would slingshot me - but when jumping it was this horrible thunk noise then would buck me over everything. Thanks again!
Funnily enough their website says "WARNING: Tighten the preload adjuster just until the spring no longer moves, then preload no more than 2 full turns. Preloading the spring more than 2 full turns may cause the spring to coil bind when the shock is bottomed out." about the DHX (and DHX2), which agrees with your recommendation. So the marking doesn't make a lot of sense.
Thanks for this. Got my new Marin. With float dhx2. Got one with stiff preload adjuster. Seems okay tho. Was getting confused with foxes. Some of there instructions seem to contradict each other. Says there's 6 clicks per full turn and to tighten preload until it touches spring then tighten 8 clicks. Then says can tighten a further 24 clicks if needed. But also says not to tighten more then 2 full turns from when it touches the spring which would be 12 clicks 🤷♂️ I'm gonna hang the bike in the stand 2moro and reset the preload do the 8 clicks, hopefully that will be okay. I don't think it will be less then that, I hope not anyway as that would mean a lighter spring is needed I think. Unless can go less then 8 clicks but fox says not to do that. If I need more clicks ill go from there but don't think I'll be tightening it up more then 2 full turns (12 clicks) as that just seems a bit extreme
The spring will be secure from 3 clicks in. I’d ignore their preload recommendations and start with 3 and add if you need. No more than 12 or so clicks
Hey Telly - ive got the same shock on the new Trek EXE ebike. I love the suppleness off the top and mid but its garbage at the end of the stroke in terms of support on bigger hits. I think i will need to get the HSC tuned by cyclinic.
most newer bikes are designed for air shocks and their progressive dampening curve. the suspension linkage is designed to be linear so the air shock's curve is what dampens the bike. if you put a coil shock, which has linear dampening curve on a bike designed for a progressive air shock; the bike will bottom out easily with a coil because the linkage is linear and so is the coil shock. so you need to get a progressive link to allow your coil shock to feel progressive in the stroke. check out cascade components; they make aftermarket links for popular bikes to correct this issue for coil shocks or those using air that ride more aggressive vs. average riders.
hi, nice video. I just got the same bike. Was wondering does your shock make a noise when compressing? Something like a swooshing/rubbing noise. This is my first coil shock and have no experience with them whatsoever.
Yeah they all make a little noise, but it will change depending on where you have your settings. Set it up just as you would an air shock. Find a spring rate that has you low enough to benefit from balanced handling, and dial in your comp and rebound to keep the bike playful and compliant
Hey mate, thanks for the great review of the Mullet and the DHX! Did you end up getting the high speed circuit shims changed to suit you from Cyclinic ?
@@mtbtelly5522 What tune did you go with? I have the float x which has the same damper and I went with the extra light compression tune. It definitely feels much better on the compression but I could never get the rebound sorted properly. Either feels unstable or harsh.
Interesting that you like to use preload as an adjustment. I never use preload at all. The theory clearly says that preload is the enemy of grip. I would say maximum 1 turn on normal shocks, but that is something that I usually don't feel that much. Vorsprung did a good video on the topic
Not using preload to fine tune your spring rate is the equivalent to only changing your air spring by 15psi incraments. Why would you limit your range? If the air spring curve feels right but is a touch soft for your weight you’d add a few psi. If your bodyweight needs 410lbs of spring force to have you at optimal support then you add a liitle preload to a 400 to bring the spring resistance up. It actually improves grip and compliance as it brings you up to where you need to be. A soft spring has as little grip as an overly firm spring. Not to mention the sluggishness it produces and the fact you end up catching bumps deeper in the travel making consecutive bumps and high speed stuff rougher. Preload only starts to effect grip if you’re oversprung. Too much preload will give a poor ride but a turn or 2 is certainly withing usable range to find the best setup.
Hey man, nice video. I have just got this exact bike and I seem to have a knocking noise when the shock springs back on fast hits. I have tried a lot of different things ( changed the coils, turned the preload to extreme, adjusted the compression and rebound but can not get rid of it. Sounds really clunky going over sharp bumps and roots. When the low speed rebound is fully open (fast return) it is a bit more prominent. Do you have an idea what I can do? Cheers, keep up the content.
Never had a coil and like the theory behind one but am also a bit lazy and impatient, just want to ride with the least amount of hassles. I think I might find one a pain in the arse if it’s difficult to set up , which is why I’m a super deluxe fan , not saying they are best , but love the ease in setting up
The coil is perfect for you then. No variation in spring support in defferent temps, no losing air, no checking pressure preride, its better everywhere on the appropriate suspension designs, but fox gotta sort out their tunes.
@@mtbtelly5522 I met a guy who has this spectral mullet bike , on a large and he said it’s great for him , but he is 105 kilos . Would that mean they have tuned them to suit the bike size and they are allowing for the bigger guys you think?
@@camwells9726 hard to say, it depends on how it performs under him, I’m curious to see if the heavier guys need more spring support and an optimal spring curve, and compression added primarily for control as it is at lighter weights. Or do they specifically need more compression to further compliment adequate spring support. Many factors to establish and isolate to learn the answers to that one
Glazed or contaminated pads/rotors. Also possibly something is loose. If they're glazed or contaminated, get new pads, sand rotors properly (so that the surface isn't smooth), degrease rotors, bed in new pads properly (do 15-20 slowdowns with EACH brake from a moderately high speed to a walking-speed. DO NOT lock up either of the brakes at any point and also don't overheat the brakes at all, or your new pads might get glazed too).
Yeah sounds like the pads are contaminated. Take them out and burn them clean with a blow torch, let them cool off, then put them back in and bed them in again. Give the rotors a clean as well before you put the pads back in
@@anttiharing if you got the cash to burn. I’ve saved countless brake pads from the scrap with a good burn off, so I try to salvage what I can before replacement
Mate I think you may have just helped me find that elusive clunking noise my bike is making. Thanks for that! Great info
100% tested it today and so much better. I had my Pre load way too far cranked down. Felt sick in and out of corners would slingshot me - but when jumping it was this horrible thunk noise then would buck me over everything. Thanks again!
We are all here for the deep dive, go for it
Funnily enough their website says "WARNING: Tighten the preload adjuster just until the spring no longer moves, then preload no more than 2 full turns. Preloading the spring more than 2 full turns may cause the spring to coil bind when the shock is bottomed out." about the DHX (and DHX2), which agrees with your recommendation. So the marking doesn't make a lot of sense.
They have old recommendations on a new design, and poor design specific recommendations as well. Just fox things haha
Keep up the good work man
Thanks for this. Got my new Marin. With float dhx2. Got one with stiff preload adjuster. Seems okay tho.
Was getting confused with foxes. Some of there instructions seem to contradict each other. Says there's 6 clicks per full turn and to tighten preload until it touches spring then tighten 8 clicks. Then says can tighten a further 24 clicks if needed. But also says not to tighten more then 2 full turns from when it touches the spring which would be 12 clicks 🤷♂️
I'm gonna hang the bike in the stand 2moro and reset the preload do the 8 clicks, hopefully that will be okay. I don't think it will be less then that, I hope not anyway as that would mean a lighter spring is needed I think. Unless can go less then 8 clicks but fox says not to do that.
If I need more clicks ill go from there but don't think I'll be tightening it up more then 2 full turns (12 clicks) as that just seems a bit extreme
The spring will be secure from 3 clicks in. I’d ignore their preload recommendations and start with 3 and add if you need. No more than 12 or so clicks
@@mtbtelly5522 thanks for that I'll start at 3 clicks and go from there. I'll let you know how I get on.
Thanks again
Hey Telly - ive got the same shock on the new Trek EXE ebike. I love the suppleness off the top and mid but its garbage at the end of the stroke in terms of support on bigger hits. I think i will need to get the HSC tuned by cyclinic.
Such a nice bike
most newer bikes are designed for air shocks and their progressive dampening curve. the suspension linkage is designed to be linear so the air shock's curve is what dampens the bike. if you put a coil shock, which has linear dampening curve on a bike designed for a progressive air shock; the bike will bottom out easily with a coil because the linkage is linear and so is the coil shock. so you need to get a progressive link to allow your coil shock to feel progressive in the stroke. check out cascade components; they make aftermarket links for popular bikes to correct this issue for coil shocks or those using air that ride more aggressive vs. average riders.
hi, nice video. I just got the same bike. Was wondering does your shock make a noise when compressing? Something like a swooshing/rubbing noise. This is my first coil shock and have no experience with them whatsoever.
Yeah they all make a little noise, but it will change depending on where you have your settings. Set it up just as you would an air shock. Find a spring rate that has you low enough to benefit from balanced handling, and dial in your comp and rebound to keep the bike playful and compliant
Hey mate, thanks for the great review of the Mullet and the DHX! Did you end up getting the high speed circuit shims changed to suit you from Cyclinic ?
Yeah I did, and it did help but not completely transform the shock
@@mtbtelly5522
What tune did you go with? I have the float x which has the same damper and I went with the extra light compression tune. It definitely feels much better on the compression but I could never get the rebound sorted properly. Either feels unstable or harsh.
Stunning shock mate! Keep up the good work
Interesting that you like to use preload as an adjustment. I never use preload at all. The theory clearly says that preload is the enemy of grip. I would say maximum 1 turn on normal shocks, but that is something that I usually don't feel that much. Vorsprung did a good video on the topic
Not using preload to fine tune your spring rate is the equivalent to only changing your air spring by 15psi incraments. Why would you limit your range? If the air spring curve feels right but is a touch soft for your weight you’d add a few psi. If your bodyweight needs 410lbs of spring force to have you at optimal support then you add a liitle preload to a 400 to bring the spring resistance up. It actually improves grip and compliance as it brings you up to where you need to be. A soft spring has as little grip as an overly firm spring. Not to mention the sluggishness it produces and the fact you end up catching bumps deeper in the travel making consecutive bumps and high speed stuff rougher. Preload only starts to effect grip if you’re oversprung. Too much preload will give a poor ride but a turn or 2 is certainly withing usable range to find the best setup.
Very nice video again! 👍🤟
Rodriguez Kenneth Johnson Ronald Perez Kimberly
Hey man, nice video. I have just got this exact bike and I seem to have a knocking noise when the shock springs back on fast hits.
I have tried a lot of different things ( changed the coils, turned the preload to extreme, adjusted the compression and rebound but can not get rid of it. Sounds really clunky going over sharp bumps and roots. When the low speed rebound is fully open (fast return) it is a bit more prominent. Do you have an idea what I can do? Cheers, keep up the content.
clicks from closed, starts counting from full op3n :D
Never had a coil and like the theory behind one but am also a bit lazy and impatient, just want to ride with the least amount of hassles.
I think I might find one a pain in the arse if it’s difficult to set up , which is why I’m a super deluxe fan , not saying they are best , but love the ease in setting up
The coil is perfect for you then. No variation in spring support in defferent temps, no losing air, no checking pressure preride, its better everywhere on the appropriate suspension designs, but fox gotta sort out their tunes.
@@mtbtelly5522 I met a guy who has this spectral mullet bike , on a large and he said it’s great for him , but he is 105 kilos . Would that mean they have tuned them to suit the bike size and they are allowing for the bigger guys you think?
@@camwells9726 hard to say, it depends on how it performs under him, I’m curious to see if the heavier guys need more spring support and an optimal spring curve, and compression added primarily for control as it is at lighter weights. Or do they specifically need more compression to further compliment adequate spring support. Many factors to establish and isolate to learn the answers to that one
Hey mate, have you hade any trouble with the brakes on the Mullet. Mine squeak and don’t lock up. I just get vibration through the bike. Cheers
Glazed or contaminated pads/rotors. Also possibly something is loose.
If they're glazed or contaminated, get new pads, sand rotors properly (so that the surface isn't smooth), degrease rotors, bed in new pads properly (do 15-20 slowdowns with EACH brake from a moderately high speed to a walking-speed. DO NOT lock up either of the brakes at any point and also don't overheat the brakes at all, or your new pads might get glazed too).
Yeah sounds like the pads are contaminated. Take them out and burn them clean with a blow torch, let them cool off, then put them back in and bed them in again. Give the rotors a clean as well before you put the pads back in
@@mtbtelly5522Better to just replace the pads
@@anttiharing if you got the cash to burn. I’ve saved countless brake pads from the scrap with a good burn off, so I try to salvage what I can before replacement
What sag percentage did you end up using?
I’m not sure of the %, a littl hard to measure on my own with the coil, I just went back and forth until it felt right.
I don't know why Fox makes shocks. Obviously they can't make a proper one. And they pricing is insane!