NOT Again….. WHY?!?
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- čas přidán 4. 04. 2024
- In this video we have the same issue we did with the TB60 and a Hobbywing 150. This one is a Hobbywing 130HV?
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Talked to Hobbywing and some others I trust, all said the same thing! Static, so I tested today and bam! Problem solved. Four flights back to back and no shut down! Video soon!
What models did it happen on. I use hobbywing 150 on my new nimbus. I hate putting oil on my belts. These manufacturers need to stress the point of power shutdowns on best drives. Nothing like losing 2k heli due to static
@@dbirds21 I’ve only had this issue on a Align belt drive and this OXY 5. I normally oil my belts every 100-150 flights.
So what did you do to stop the static. Ground the boom?
Interesting that the static was only an issue at the higher headspeed🤷♂️
@@zoof1 so today I just tested with silicone oil to see and now I’m going to figure out how to ground the boom.
Hello Jeff, I do remember seeing that John Salt of rchelicoptersfun had a similar issue which was static in the boom because it is similar to a vandergraff generator. So he now grounds all of his booms and shows different ways that he does that. Hope this helps
I figured it out that’s it’s definitely static. I’m going to look his videos up and see how he grounds the boom. I oiled the belt and problem solved so I knew it was static now just need to fix it permanently. Thank you!
Hi! I had the exact same issue some years ago with my HW 130. The problem was an electrostatic issue on my Logo 600 SX tail. The Mikado antistatic kit helped instantly. Check the electrical continuity between the tail pulley or tail roll and your motor plate. Another reason for this could be bad signal cables between the ESC and your FBL. And I do not recommend to use the HW rpm output signal for Vbar Gov. The HW 130 rpm signal is too bad for this. Just use HW Gov or Gov Store instead. Greets from Germany!
I've had to really wonder about static. We used to make a pretty big deal of that and found ways to ground everything. I had gone with TT helis for a long time and then forgot about it until the mainstream again returned to belts. That is a great tip.
Wouldn't static affect the RX and cause a brown out?
Hi Jeff. I was having what seemed like the exact same problem with my Raw 420. As I would load
the heli with pitch it would go into what I’d call “limp” mode. I’d lose the majority of power and have to
land immediately. The first time it happened it caused a crash. My esc was an hw60a. I spoke to HW tech support; they couldn’t have been more helpful, they went out of their was to help me. Changed some settings etc. unfortunately nothing helped so I switched to an hw80a. The problem continued without change. So I replaced it with a Scorpion 06-80. Problem solved, never an issue since.
I’m going to try some thing tomorrow to see if it’s a static issue or an ESC issue. I have multiple other hobbywing‘s that don’t have a problem. So hopefully it’s not a bad ESC. But I’m going to send it to Hobbywing if it’s a bad ESC
Let us know what u figure out. Very curious. That's all I run is hobbywing
@@westhobbiesrc8051 yes please keep us updated, and show us how you tested and how you fixed it, thanks for your videos
Its been over 10 years since I flew rc helicopters. I had an issue with a 450 clone building static too but it was an aluminum frame and 72 mhz. Issue went away when i upgraded to 2.4 ghz. Odd to see those issues coming back
You fly so well, I am really struggling the best I ever flew was when I had the 3GX system with go home and stabilizer/ attitude control. Watching you fly and know how your system works is all I can wish for.
Thank you! I greatly appreciate that. What radio and FBL are you using now?
This same thing happened to me with my hobbywing, it turned out that under the throttle calibration I was at the limit, so when the ESC was asking for More power it was going over the threshold and turning off the gov causing the shutdown. I went back into throttle calibration in the computer with the Blades off and heli spooled up, And went down a few clicks from max RPM and Problem was solved. I Guarantee you that is your problem. I’ll be waiting here for the thanks from the Future ☺️. And no it’s not the BEC it’s your headroom under Max RPM.
Man, I just barely and very "reluctantly" put one of these in my own 700 and now I'm seeing this. I've already had problems with HW in the past with these issues and then I see this...I sure hope you are right. I'm not sure how the max RPM can be exceeded though if your gov is set below max. I mean generally isn't it best to run high 80's in gov so you have some head room? Why would the gov try to exceed that? It didn't look like he was pushing it that much when it went in.
Because I think what happens is the software is looking for max and when I goes for it and it’s out of range it goes past the range and turns it off even though it should be giving more power. Mine did that same exact thing I was flying normal did a few tic tocs then went inverted and it shut down on me and I went in head first. I may even be able to look up the forum I was in on heli freak as I believe I came back and updated what had happened. The only thing I think it was doing was “going out of range” so the ESC is asking for more or less and falling out of range.
I did calibrate throttle like I do on all my models. I just re-calibrated it again tonight I’m gonna try tomorrow to see if that’s what’s causing it but there’s still plenty of headroom left as far as rpm goes.
I just did a testrun on the bench, directly connecting the ESC to a RX. Even if you go way above the calibrated endpoint the ESC doesn't shut down.
It just stays at max RPM.
@@th3s41nt I would like that if you get a chance to post it up. I've spent a lot of time hunting down this issue over the past couple of years. I've changed a lot of things including going to Vbar Control to remedy it. Now it has only occurred to me once since then (which was my fault in that case) but it had the potential to cost many thousands in just one bird. When you say "software", you are referring to the software that sets the settings in the ESC? I'm thinking that in Vbar Control, wouldn't that equate to reducing the throttle high end point a few points down? That is really easy to try.
logs? You can plug in the Hobbywing programmer and pull the logs from the speed controller, you would have to do this BEFORE disconnecting the speed controller. It does not save logs from previous flights.
Vbar will show Hobbywing logs as it is integrated. But there was nothing in the logs which hit at static and it was.
Check your solder joints. I totalled my Raw 580 a while back and never figured out why I lost power and then it powered itself into the ground. Upon rebuild I checked my solder joints and had a loose one that I was able to pull apart with no effort. Just some food for thought
That is definitely a great place to check. I checked them all over tonight. I can’t find a coal joint or a joint. That looks bad. I did not re-flow them but they look good.
I had some really strange behavior with my setup initially with cutouts on the bench with the blades off and spooled up. I was in Vbar gov mode and the freewheel setting of the ESC was what was influencing that so I turned it off and it went away completely. Not exactly sure yet what that would have done flying. My first flight on it will be this weekend and now I'm pretty nervous about it. Been reading about "cutouts" with HW products on forums for several years now.
Oxy makes a nice heli..
They do!
Can’t get over how well she handled, despite the tail rotor issue.
ESC Calibration this sounds like. As you know ideally you need enough headroom to not meet max draw. This will peak to 160 even though a 130 but, that headspeed is high and likely HV 7.4 / 8.2v servos. big pitch, high headspeed, bang. Let us know what you find out Jeff. PS - check the IR of the battery min vs max between cells.
I’m gonna try to re-calibrate the ESC tomorrow and see if that works. I’m also going to see if it’s a static issue or not. I’m gonna do a couple different tests to try to figure out what’s going on. The battery is good and checks out perfectly.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 let us know how you get on Jeff and what you find.
I’ve seen this issue on the 150esc a couple of times now. It was due to a high Bec voltage. We found lowering the voltage to 7 volts from 8 volts fixed the issues.
That did fix the 150 issue, this one is from static. Which is also fixed now lol
Had shutdownslike that as well with 130 V4. Not LVC or temp either. For me increasing the timing cured it. You might give it a try.
Man , I wish my hardcore was as good as your taking me easy.😅
Thank you! I appreciate that. You will get there!
HW 150 v5 on my Raw 580 and no issues. High head speed too.
I’ve got two 150v5 with no issues as well.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 is the new Goblin 420 competition in your view? Upgrading from a Goblin Buddy to the 420 competition. Time to sell the frame.
On one-way bearings
This may sound crazy
But I had a spate of one way bearing issues till an instrument tech told me to try different grease - that sorted it, the stuff I was using was to heavy. 👍🏻 Thanks again for your content, fab vids & flying
Thank you for watching! I appreciate it, yes! There is certain grease that are too thick and heavy for a one-way bearing and will cause them to slip.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 what grease are you using?
Using a Single-Line receiver all channels/functions are transferred by one single connection wire. This allows to use even more
than 5 channels, i. e. for controlling the headspeed Governor, AttitudeControl function and additional output channels. Always
make sure the power supply is stable and dimensioned sufficiently for the intended application. If possible always connect the
power source directly to MICROBEAST PLUS (not at port [AUX|PIT|RUD]) in order to minimize contact resistance. Additional supply
cables can be plugged into free receiver ports. Especially when using standard size servos it is recommended to use more than
one power supply cable in parallel to preserve a stable voltage and to reduce power loss due to connection resistance. I know you are not using beast x but could the connection resistance with the servos on 8 volts be to high causing the problem.? I would run a separate power source to the radio stuff and leave the main battery for the motor like in airplanes back in the day and see if that fixes these problems by having a dedicated power to the servos and separate for the engine reducing resistance
My guess, temps of the esc. The esc will shutdown the motor if the esc is over 100 or 110 celcius. I see that you haven’t installed the little fan. See the manual. The esc could just not have airflow enough ans overheats. If the esc heats up quickly it can be cold outside and overheated inside.
In my Brain2/Jetei telemetry logs, I see a temp drop of around 25 celcius using the fan. Temps without fan where 75-85 with my old man low rpm flying style.
I am not running the fan on this model mainly because it’s the canopy on the sides. But the temperature never gets above 90°F.
Oh man!! Now I feel like I want to send back my vbar Evo 😅😅looks like hobbywing and vbar not matching well Iam thinking to stay with ikon2 😅😅 I know that you will find the problem either esc failed or I hope not vbar failure!😳😳good luck man !! And i really love your channel!!👍🏻
It’s not a Vbar issue at all. It’s a static issue. I did some testing today and talked to Hobbywing. Some helicopters do not have a boom that’s grounded to the main frame or plate. I used some 3-1 silicone oil on the belt and no issues! Thank you!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 that’s great man !! Thanks for sharing!!👍🏻👍🏻😀
Test your Battery under load an see if there are diferences in Voltage. A colleague had similar problems - he put an extra 2S reciver Battery on his copter and the problem was gone. 🙂 Good luck!
Battery under load is good. Flew my piuma with the same pack right after this flight and many others.
Try reducing your high headspeed a bit. It might be pulling a little too much for that ESC.
Headspeed on oxy 5 can go up to 3000 with no issues on hobby wing 130
Watch Tareq fly
@@andrewjackson9527tareq has everything custom
The head speed isn’t that high. I’m only at 2200 RPM and there is plenty of room left in it. I could go up to 3000 if I wanted to but I’m only pulling 96 A.
hmmm.. do you have a temp log on that. The only thing I can say right now is the first thing I do when that happens is feel the esc and the battery/ wiring/ motor, resistance always makes heat...also, both times it had been in the air a few min possibly allowing something to get hot. other than that, I just don't know. u weren't pushing it at all either. Also thats why I should practice auto's. you handled both of those great!
So, as far as temperature goes, it never gets above 90°F. Everything fuels cool to the touch. Nothing is hot or out of the ordinary and concern. The log doesn’t show anything for shutting down. It doesn’t show LVC nothing. Weird! Practicing auto rotations is a must
Maybe a vid suggestion: You must have tried most of the blades out there. I would find a comparison video very interesting and in your opinion/ experience the best set of main blades out there.
That is definitely a great idea for a video. I have flown pretty much every blade on the market there’s still some I haven’t tried, but it is really difficult to feel the actual difference between the blades. It’s more of a user preference. At least in my opinion
I think that was like a 4:45 long flight overall. Low power cut off second time around?
On 12s, I can get upwards of seven minutes on this helicopter with mixed RPM. There was still 60% left in the pack after the second shut down. It never hit LVC.
Jeff, I once had a similar issue and found that the retaining compound I used for my one way bearing was not working. But yours sounds like the ESC is shutting down.
One way bearing slipping would definitely cause a loss of power which is what I originally thought when I crashed it. But it is definitely an ESC issue.
Try this setup on your Ikon and Spektrum. Just incase it is the Neo. It won't be the first time I've seen it happen????????
It’s not a meal problem. I still have full control. It is a hobbywing issue.
Looks like a static problem, make sure the tail is grounded to the motor mount
That’s what my xl550 has been doing
It’s a strange one!
i believe it's due to heat not voltage
It’s not getting above 90°F so I don’t think it’s a heat issue
Did you touch the ESC and motor? How hot are they?
Yes, I did, both of them were cool to the touch telemetry log shows 86°
I have 800 flights on my W130A without an issue. Running ESC gov and BRAIN2. Have you tried to use ESC GOV? Is the NEO allowing you to set the throttle limits for the ESC, like the BRAIN does when you select a HW ESC (for HW they are 1100 and 1940)? It seems that all issues are happening with HW+VBAR combination, am I wrong? Have you considered to put a BRAIN2 on it? Hoping you'll find a solution, Luca
what is 1100 and 1940? the width pulse limit?
@RotoRCol yes it's the throttle range of the ESC. It may vary slightly amont ESC brands. BRAIN2 configuration asks you to enter it (default is 1000/2000).
I used to get this same problem too many times. I went through everything and then I quit the hobby for 3 years. I had all the issues using vcontrol radio and tried castle and hobbywing with same problems. Sometimes hundreds of flights before tghe issue other times a few flights. I got real frustrated and decided to take a break amongst other reasons. This time I came back to the hobby going back to my roots with futaba radio and kontronik. I cant say for sure but I think it was the vcontrol radio.
Does the ESC have a BEC and are you using it to power the RX and servos? Sometimes these powerful servos can overpower the BEC and cause a shut down.
Hi Jeff, we've talked in E-Mails, I think you remember me. Anyway, YOU KNOW I've never setup a Heli yet, and you figured out through the suggestion of another when having this problem with the TB60 and the HW150, that the 7.4V BEC fixed it. I don't remember what FBL you were flying as I would have to go back and review. This is just a complete shot in the dark, coming from someone as you know, with NO experience in this area. Could it have something to do in this case with the Vbar FBL and HW130? I don't see how, but I just thought I'd throw it out there. It would be interesting to me, to see if an Ikon2 with the HW130 somehow fixes it? Again, I'm talking out of my A** as you know I know nothing in this area. Thanks Jeff...Cam
Hey Cam, yes I remember you! So today I went to the field and did some testing! I talked to a few people I know and trust and I also talked to Hobbywing. Everyone said the same thing, static! So I did a quick test, I oiled the belt with 3-1 silicone oil and went to go fly. I put four flights back to back with the same battery and everything as before and loaded it as much I could and no issues! No shut downs! So it was a static issue. So I need to figure out how to make the static issue a permanent solution.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 what does the oil do on the belt? did you lubed it just the exterior of the belt? or the interior where the teeth are too? Thanks Jeff
Cant you hear it. The output shaft for the main rotor is bent causing the motor lag and overheat shutting the esc down to protect system. You need to replace the main rotor drive shaft(depending on the design may mean motor replacement.) I can hear the shaft wobble in the harmonic sound the rotor is making when you spin up to flight speed. Probably why it nicked the boom when it shut down the first time. With it turned off take hold of the attaching assembly for the main rotor and try to move it back and forth. If it moves that's your proof the shaft is bad cuz its angering out the top main bearing due to the bend.
Not quite sure what you’re talking about but no. No shafts are bent. No wobbling lol no over heating.
Static issue: It all comes down to "Electrical continuity" between the belt and the body / frame supporting the ESC.
If the static builds until the voltage becomes high enough to finally jump the air gap then you have just experienced
an amazing high voltage hit to the ESC, of course there is no current flow worth mentioning. (otherwise it would destroy the ESC)
There is a reason why some helis don't have static issues even though there is "No Electrical Continuity" between the tail boom
and aluminum motor mount assembly. (as checked with a ohm meter) .............SAB 580 Kraken for example.
If a heli has a metal "tail belt drive gear" attached to a metal shaft supported by metal bearings housed in metal housings,
then the static will dissipate from the belt. But if there are plastic parts used in any of the above mentioned components
then the static will build.
For example, some helis although they have a metal path for static to flow and equalize around the ESC, they use plastic
bushings around the bearings supporting the tail "drive gear" shaft = stopping the flow of current! This will allow the build up of
static electricity. The same happens if the tail belt drive gear itself is made of plastic and not metal. Lubing the belt only lessens
the build up of static, and doesn't address the real problem, Electrical continuity.
Cheers Jeff G.
Thank you for explaining this! I’ve been trying to reach and see why it happens on some and not on others and you just answered all my questions in this one comment! I greatly appreciate that! I learned from this. I was wondering why my SAB helis do not have the static issues and my OXY did. The OXY tail casing is carbon fiber and plastic boom block going into the main frame. So I have a question, what would/should I do to fix the static issue? I oiled the belt to test and problem solved. So what’s a permanent fix? Thank you again!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Hi Jeff, I wish I knew of a concise fix for this problem but I don't.
I know that some people have run an external wire between metal components at the tail assembly and the frame of the ESC mounting plate to provide continuity to dissipate any voltage building up between the belt and the body of the Heli. Other have relied on regular applications of anti-static sprays like (anti static-spray SW955). Neither one seems great to me. On one hand, I am a bit of a freak about having pristine looking wiring and assembly of my helis, and an externally mounted wire running the length of the boom would be a small challenge to look real nice . And on the other hand, routinely using spray would leave me with a lingering doubt wonder... "Is this the flight that static builds back up and trips off my esc"? I guess if I ever have to do this I would run a 22 or 24 gauge wire in colored heat shrink front to back. Ugh!
Happy flying, love your Vids, wish I lived in Florida, we would be friends for sure!
Cheers Jeff G.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I ran a wire from the motor mount to the tail servo clamp... I scraped the black anodizing on the tail boom where it meets the edge of the servo clamp and inserted the wire there before clamping it down. Checkout my build pics on the Oxy 5 at helifreak (cyclos Oxy 5 HF build)
Hey, Are you using backup power on this heli?
Whatch Tareq fly the OXY 5 HF with crazy 3000 headsead and hobbywing 130 with no issues
I can turn mine to 3000 RPM too lol
What is the temp on the esc? If Im not mistanken , the esc shuts off over 70c ? Wents in the canopy should give cooling tho.
It sux when things like that happen….
That flight I believe was 86°F which is somewhere around 35°C so it was not hot at all
Are you running vbar gov or external HW gov. If vbar gov, what is the motor timing set at? That could be causing excessive heat and shutting down.
Had this same issue with my hobby wing 100 amp.
I resolved this issue by powering up my fbl unit with with a separate 2s 7.4 battery and never had an issue since
So you were having a BEC shut down?
@@westhobbiesrc8051 it was an intermittent issue. Once I stop using the BEC my problem never returned.
Now I do this with all my helicopters and power my FBL with a 7.4 2s
Do you use the capacitor that comes with the HobbyWing ESC for the BEC?
No, I never have. Not on any of my models.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 gotcha. I was just curious. I’m running it on my Piuma, but not my smaller birds.
ESC safety cut? Pull the logs out of the ESC
The logs are not showing anything out of the ordinary no LVC nothing
Jeff, is a 130amp esc powerful enough to operate 12s ? I am planning on buying the Blade Fusion 550 for my birthday on Memorial Day May 30th, the recommended esc is 130 + amp and it is only 6s , of course there is the Ohm’s Law thing to consider.
Those two specs are completely separate from each other. It's like asking is a 4 cylinder powerful enough to do 40mpg.
@@Domowoi2 Well, I like to have a more powerful esc than needed because the entire vehicle depends on it, I’ve put a 60 amp esc in my Timber airplane running a Power 15 on 4s spinning a 13 X 4 propeller and created a Super Timber.
Been running one on 12s in a 630 goblin for ever never had a problem
Being a 12S helicopter your amperage is significantly lower. For example, I don’t see more than 110 A on this set up. That is one of the biggest reasons of going 12S is to eliminate your high amperage set up. But these ESC‘s can take almost double what they are rated for.
Anoying problem. Had the same behaviour on my raw 580 w/HW 120. ESC shut down sporadically, very scary. Had to put in a new ESC. Never understood the root cause.
It’s a very frustrating problem I don’t want to just throw another ESC in it if that’s not the issue. Going to try for static and if that doesn’t work, I’m going to send it to hobbywing and have them look at it.
2 different esc,s shutting ? on 2 different models. Is any thing shared on both models at all?
Two completely different ESC’s two completely different models in different set ups. Nothing shared upon either of them.
Man that sucks.
I'm having the same issues on my Raw 580 running a HW 150 V5 with Brain-Governor.
Almost crashed last week because of a motor shutdown.
I was running an older Firmware and 8.0V on the BEC.
Tomorow i wanted to try out the latest firmware and the BEC set to 7.4V, not so sure if this is a good idea anymore.
Just bought a Raw 580 and its making me reconsider the HW 150
I guess we have to know if it’s the HW or a brownout from the vbar.
V touch is most likely the problem
Tareq flyes this Heli with over 3000 rpm with hobbywing 130 and has no issues
@@andrewjackson9527The problem is not exlusive to mikado though, i'm running Ikon/Brain.
The FBL logs show nothing suspicious either.
It’s definitely not a FBL issue. I have a feeling it’s a hobbywing issue. On the 150 I definitely recommend turning the BEC down to 7.4 V.
Static issues or the cables Isolation on the motor are damaged?
Motor wires and all of that are good. I have a feeling it might be a static issue.
I've had similar issues with a electronic tail heli..gets hot and the tail esc gives out like its starved for volts or something .on time it was a bad motor and the other time the esc was junk ..then another time it was a battery that tested good but failed in operation . weak link somewhere ..super nice heli tho:)
Thank you! I appreciate it, I have seen bad yes you do that I’m getting hot but this one isn’t getting above 90°F so it’s definitely not a heat issue.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 I've been working..on my blades still..don't know why I can't leave them alone
Damn ...Following 🤔
Me too! Lol I hope to find something out
Just FYI hobbywing has been having some weird problems with their surface ESCs as well. It seems like a lot of their new stuff has been kind of unreliable.
That is good to know that it there is issues on the surface side. I am talking with hobbywing now trying to figure out a solution.
Are you using Vbar govenor?
If yes, what frequency?
Yes I am, I’m using the default frequency. I never messed with it.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 Try internal gov
How is the cutoff settings of your ESC?
I have low-voltage cut off turn completely off on my models
Dude hows the turbine coming along did you fly it yet?
It’s coming along great! It has not been flown and or finished yet. It is very close though.
had lad at flying field with same sort of issue. It was EVO taking too much power. His was using YGE ESC. Too solve he had too use backup 2s battery. The EVO's draw too much power from BEC. Not know if same prob but maybe worth looking into.
Don't sound right to me
Are you saying that the actual EVO is taking too much from the BEC? I’ve personally never seen that before.
@@westhobbiesrc8051
When changed for NEO problem resolved.
He got intouch with Mekado and it was there suggestion to use 2s batt as backup.
His telemetry was telling him his bec voltage was dropping very low. Can not remember actual figures as he has left club now.
@@westhobbiesrc8051 His telemetry was showing BEC voltage was dropping to very low level when flying. Mekado recommended he use 2s batt as backup witch worked. He eventually changed back to NEO's and that solved the problems he was having. It was early EVO's that you had to add hot glue. I do not know if later EVO's still have same problem as do not know anybody who use. Most people I know who tried EVO's have gone back to NEO's
I had my new v2 EVO (gold case) shut down on me and reboot killing my logo the other week haven’t tried it since saw some stuff in forums that Evo v2 shutting down
Sorry to hear that! That sucks!
@@westhobbiesrc8051 seen a few comments on forums about same issue of just EVO shutdown in the air, mines the new chip v2 no glue version and it just shut down randomly. I'm hoping it was static or something so have repaired the heli and will test again. With other people saying same on VBAR facebook page might be a wider issue, who knows
I had same issue with evo 2 randomly shut down,got fed up of repairing..its now in landfill...
You’re running off the bec, right? Is the vbar resetting?
Yes, I am running off of BEC. No, it is not resetting I still have solid control the entire time nothings shown in the logs either for reset.
That’s interesting. The vbar isn’t browning out.
I wonder which part of the esc is causing the issue then.
The bec/input side to it from the receiver (or vbar), is that somehow browning out on its own without taking down the vbar....maybe due to poor design?
Or the commutation (the 12s) section.
I’d nearly try a 2S rx pack and see if the problem continues.
Does the esc log? Did it for sure log shutdowns and restarts?
Btw, Good grief, bro, most of what you’re running was on my list for my RAW build, thanks for posting this. I may just do ikon2 and ... what other speedy might you select?
Here’s another wild idea, maybe set up the low voltage cut off.
I read somewhere you did not set it up. Maybe it could be the case when the speedy is unhappy with a slight drop it tries to look up the LVC and when it doesn’t find it, it gets really upset and cuts off?
Is the ESC getting to hot?
Not at all, it doesn’t get above 90°F
Is that I75 in the background? 😂
I thought it was I-71
No, it is a Highway called 840.
static?
I have a feeling that might be the cause
we did a lot of hobbywing tests with 150 esc, 130 and 200amps at the limit, we shut down the same. the thing is you need to disable your cut off, better to use a new lipo. when it detects that there is a cell below 3.3v the esc will shut down. another one it has standardization in hw esc you have to wait if 25s if you set it before maneuvers, fail to do this it can end up in shutdown. check also the motor peak, hw should be higher than the motor. hw should be set at max of 90-95% throttle value. it should have -5-10% allowance for the governor.
That really sux, I have the same problem on my TB70 with the hobbywing 200, I've tried every suggestion possible and can't solve it, now the TB70 sits collecting dust because I'm afraid to fly it, every time it get slightly more damage and looks like a basher now !
I have bought a capacitor bank pack to try but haven't tried it because Im so over this set-up with dramas with broken main gears and other crap.
I went out and bought myself a Soxos Strike 7.1 and a Scorpion 200 to get over the TB70, this is beyond comprehension how good it is, it is the best 700 heli I've ever built and flown, the quality is out of this world
I’m sorry to hear that! It is definitely a possibility problem I completely understand. I’ve already balled this one up because of it. What software are you running in your Hobbywing 200?
@westhobbiesrc8051 I don't remember the version, it was that latest one about 3 or 4 months ago when I put it away and haven't touched it since.
Do you have another radio you can use? I think its the radio. I really do..... When my issue I think in the radio it would just shut my throttle off foe no reason...try another radio with same setup to test it. I wont use vcontrol radios again because of it...I never made STINK ABOUT IT CAUSE i DIDNT CARE i WAS QUITING BUT i DO NOT TRUST THAT RADIO PLAATFORM AT ALL.....
Yes, I have multiple different radios in system but it’s not a FBL or radio issue. I have multiple multiple helicopters on the system with Hobbywing ESC’s and no issues. It was a static problem. I talked to Hobbywing and a few others and they all said static. So I tired oiling the belt with 3-1 silicone oil and problem solved!
Can you explain the “static” and the fix ?