James l, thanks for watching and many thanks for the support, I greatly appreciate it! Take any ideas you find and improve on them, make them your own. Good luck with your projects, be safe and take care and thank you again!
Cyclops, thanks for watching! I'm using that tool again today, just made a 9.5" radius set of rails to re-radius a fender 7.25, to 9.5. I'll post a vid in a couple weeks. But, I've changed the design slightly, I now bolt the radius ends on the flat rails. More interchangeable now. Good luck with your projects, be safe and take care!
WatchnLearn, thanks for watching! I've seen what you mention, but never done it that way myself. Always new things to try. Hope you are well, take care!
Jim, thanks for watching! I can't take credit for the idea... it's already out there. I don't really know who came up with it, probably some old ship builder, or fine furniture fellas. It is a slick way to save wear and tear on the body, my joints greatly appreciate this device. Be safe and take care!
Great help this little jig, and I'm very impressed that we actually have Craftsmen, who are willing to share their expertise AND be kind enough to provide a damn good drawing WITH ADD'L RADIUS'S (RADII) !!
Been meaning to think about possibly planning making one of these, so you've added a shortcut to my procrastination! So thanks for the plans! Cheers Andrew
Thanx Mate! I purchased the Dan Nocetti 12" Planing Jig. I'll probably just spend the $$$ again for a 10" Rad. (RIC) Cradle cause i just don't have the time (or inclination) to make my own at present, but know that this WILL be filed away for the future, again thanx, and WOW! Gb g
George, thanks for watching! Dan makes some nice stuff, you should be very happy with your purchase. He wasn't making the router fixtures when I made the vid, I may have been tempered to buy the setup from him too. Happy radiuses to you, be safe and take care!
Daniel, thanks for watching! Glad the vid and PDF were of some help. Glad to hear you made changes/improvements to the plan. I'm guessing once you get the hang of using the fixture, you'll be thrilled. Take care!
Ray, thanks for watching! This little fixture/Jig has saved me a LOT of time sanding. There is still final finish sanding to do, but it is soooo much more enjoyable. Be sure to find the PDF plan/idea in the video description. Good luck with your projects, take care!
Hey Bob, thanks for watching! I'm hoping everyone will take a look at the plans and improve on them, modify something, make it better. Hope you are well, take care!
Great job!! I build almost exactly the same setup last year. Still need to make some more radius templates, that video is a motivation to do that😎 Greetings from Germany
Andreas, good to hear from you and thanks for watching! I have big plans to make more of these, but the reality is I don't need others, until I need them...ha. Be safe and take care!
Very nice! Educational content always a plus! I've made one of these to also account for angled/scarfed headstocks. Essentially a few extra platform pieces of mdf with a wide channel on one end to allow for bottom clearance. Sure there are other ways to skin that one.
Metal, thanks for watching! Good luck with your project. One suggestion, do a practice run on some scrap material. Just tonget the hang of it and to verify radius and such. Be safe and take care!
Peter, thanks for watching. Once you get it built and fine-tune it, life will be so easy. You'll get to a point where you dread the few minutes of set-up and clean-up, rather than wrecking your arms and shoulders sanding a radius. Ah, the good old days of elbow pain and ice packs, LOL. Good luck with your project. Take care!
@Peter Costanza great question, and it does matter. If the rails for a 14" radius fingerboard are cut at 15" radius, the bit will need to extend 1" below the rails. The deeper the bit extends, the tighter the radius of the fingerboard cut will be. Look over the pdf really well, it may answer some questions too. The top center of the (finished) fingerboard should measure down 1" from the center highest point of the radius rails the router caddy will ride on. With each project build, you may need to make changes to fit you equipment and work process. My plan can be changed as needed to work for you. When you're ready to "test", cut some test material and make adjustments before commiting to your real project. As for cutting, I typically slide the length of the fingerboard, but I have since seen others cutting back-and-forth widthwise. To each there own, find what is comfortable for you. Let me know if you have other questions and I'll try to help. Good luck, and keep me posted!
I did this ..Works so good..Thank you for saving my arms and shoulder!! I didnt have any 3/4 MDF on hand so I glued 1/2 and 1/4 together , Works so good!!
Ashton, thanks for watching! 3/4" isn't necessary, and I have made the arched side rails from 1/2" mdf. As long as you got it working, you're good! Enjoy, be safe and take care!
Furycken Bass, thanks for watching. Modify the plans/ideas however you see fit. Make it work for your equipment and process. What I'm showing is an idea, I've seen a few others take it and make changes which work for them.... Make it fun. Good luck and take care!
@@theNextProject I realized the project today and I adapted it to my equipment as well as to the handle of my bass and the result is great! Really, thank you! It’s a pleasure to see good people on the net. Take care of yourself too.👍
Very simple but effective jig there. I will definitely download and use the plans. I have finally gotten around to making guitars again and have two currently on the workbench. One is a Harley Benton Tele kit, I reduced the body thickness, plugged the existing routes and fitted a maple cap today, also routed for twin p90s. I'm only using the neck and body from the kit, fitting better quality pickups, pots etc. The second project is an Ash body for a bass guitar neck that I happened to get my hands on. The neck is in good shape so I couldn't stand to see it go to waste. Hope to get my Daughter to learn to play the Bass when it's done.
Hey Brian, good to hear from you and thanks for watching! Sounds like a couple great projects you have going there. a Tele w p90s, very nice! And a bass for a bass for your daughter, cool. Maybe you can also get her interested in the build of the bass. That would be a great "family" project. Really good to hear you have your workspace together and are ready to make headway. Good luck with the radius jig, Tele, and bass projects. Be safe and take care!
Jorge, thank you for watching. Dust (chip) collector is a good idea. Now that I'm in a better work setting, I am working on that. Well, it is on my to-do list. Hope you are well, take care!
Gary, thanks for watching! The arched radius that the router caddy rides on is cut at a 1" greater radius than the final fingerboard radius. This does leave room for the caddy to traverse back-and-forth and for you to sneak up on final cut depth. If you downloaded the pdf file from the description, it may shed more light on the build. Good luck with your project. Take care!
Simon, thanks for watching. The way I have it set up, the arch radius is 1" greater than the final fingerboard radius. This allows room for the cutting bit between the bottom of the router and the fingerboard. So, yes if I understand your question, you've got it right. Please do a test cut/radius on some scrap material, and make adjustments to your build. Keep me posted as to your project. Good luck and take care!
@@theNextProject thank you so much for replying, I've cut the radius section 12inches today next part is the cradle for the router to sit in that's next weekend when I'm off work thanks again
I've just finished building multiple radii trolleys, what's cool is that you can use the same caddy on the various radii trolleys. I've also used the inverted arc part of the radius trolley to make an inverted radius trolley to route 1 piece sanding blocks / caul with same radius. Can't wait to make some fingerboards to try it. BTW, do you have/working on a neck contour carving jig?
Peter, thanks for watching and the great comment too. The use of this idea to make radius beams is great. Be sure to carefully match the sanding beam to the radius. Some adjustments will likely be needed. I'm glad you took the idea and made it your own! Be safe and take care!
Oops - neck carving jig... Actually yes I am working on another neck carving jig. I had made an over arm router style fixture for my drill press, but I'm currently working on a "neck shaping box" now. That video is a bit down the road as I've got other fires burning too. For the base idea, got to: www.on-guitars.com/blog/jigs/building-a-neck-contour-jig/ I'm not building that exact jig, but drawing a lot of ideas from it. Also look at: czcams.com/video/Rac62c5XfrQ/video.html And: www.homebuiltworkshop.com/tag/temple-guitars-guitar-neck-routing-jig/ All these and many, many more share the same basic idea, which appears to work great. I thing I first saw this idea in a Bill Scheltema video a handful of years ago. When I get my video done, it will join the ranks of those I borrow from. Be safe and take care!
@@theNextProject I've looked at the over arm jig but do not feel safe running such a big router bit while hands are close it, I saw the "box type" as well but cannot find any plans to be able to make it as precise as possible, Anyhow let me know when you make it, I'm very interested in making one. I'm presently gathering ideas and wood and preparing for it. thank you again.
@@peternotpeter I completely understand about the overarm router. It is a bit crazy. My "box" style neck shaping jig will hopefully work for both bass and 6-string guitar neck length. At least that's the plan at this time. Take care!
Thanks for the video and the plans! Starting making this but I think there's an issue that should be mentioned... It would seem either the spacing between the rollers or the depth of the router bit would have to be adjusted for the different radii. On the first page of the plans it seems you were careful to make sure the centerline of the wheels of the sled was 1" away from the finished fretboard surface. And you mention that when cutting the templates, always make the template radius 1" larger than the desired finish radius. However that will only work for one radius/wheel spacing setup. If you change the radius of the template, the router bit will no longer be 1" from the fretboard surface, thus changing your finished fretboard radius. One would either have to adjust the wheel spacing to maintain a 1" inch cut depth, or change the depth of the router bit to obtain the desired finished radius. The error would be very slight (e.g., ~0.07" switching from 12" to 9.5" radius) but it's there. Just though it merited mentioning for the OCD among us...
Richard, sorry about that, my phone has stopped working... Okay, sorry for the confusion on the plans. The 1" off set is between the cutting radius and the rail radius. Not the center of the bearings to the cut. Each router caddy will have to be made for the dimensions of the given router/base. If the roller bearings are spaced to widely, the caddy will sit too low and cause interference with the fingerboard. Also, if the bearings are too wide, they will tend to drop off the ends of the trolley radius at the end of travel. Sorry, that is information people will need to know, but might be a good thing to learn firsthand during the build. Maybe. The depth of cut is controlled by the router base, and not the caddy nor the trolley. Let me know if this answers your question/ concern. Thaks for watching and the great question. Take care!
Hmm, I just took a look at the plans, did an overlay of the caddy as drawn and the only thing that needs to be adjusted is the depth of cut of the router bit. I overlaid the 7.25" though the 20" and the bit stays on the cutting line consistently for all. Again, the depth the bit needs to extend will differ, but the cut radius to rail radius works with the caddy as drawn. I'll post an updated PDF showing this tonight when I get home. Thanks again, take care!
Richard, I've uploaded an updated PDF with a little more information. Let me know if this helps or not. Thanks again for your question, made me think... that's a good thing for me to do once in a while. Be safe and take care!
@@theNextProject Nice addition to the PDF. BTW - I was so interested in this project because I HAVE hand-sanded a Richlite blank to a 12" radius. Never again! I'm in the middle of making this jig now.
Gracias por el amor, y por ver el video. Espero que todo te vaya bien en Argentina. ¡Cuídate! ---- Thanks for the love, and for watching the video. I hope everything goes well for you in Argentina. Take care of yourself!
So true...I probably use the wrong words for the parts. The caddy is likely a trolley, and trolley is - whatever it is. Thought I saw a definition stating trolley is also undergarments. Idk. Take care my friend!
Well, I've once seen a professional device for getting a radius on a fingerboard. It's as simple as a pendulum and a belt sander. So the pendulum is 14 inches long, and the belt sander is below, and then the guitar neck is just swinging over the belt and gets the radius. Well, my own project with cutting the scratchplate went terribly wrong. Think I'm just gonna spend some money and get me the scratchplate crafted as I want it. Volume and tone 2 as holes for American pots, in place of the hole for tone 1 a 16 mm hole for the kill switch. And I totally screwed the easiest part, the slot for the lever switch. This should have been so easy, but I blew it! I don't think I get a second blank Strat-scratchplate, I'm gonna have me one made to my specs. The space for the bridge humbucker simply 8 mm further away from the bridge. Well, I will solder on the screwed pick guard and I'll replace it soon as I have the custom-made one!
Achim, sorry to hear your scratchplate project got buggered up, been there, feel your pain. The swinging pendulum radius sander for fingerboards is great, if you have the big sander and the pendulum attachment. I guess you could make the pendulum swingarm fixture. I've seen the Texas Toast videos of such a device and I want to say there's a factory walk-through video of some "brand" name guitars that use that same method. Now that I think of it, Warmoth may also use the pendulum for their radius needs. Maybe someday I'll work my way up to that...maybe, ha. I hope you have better luck going forward with your scratchplate. Good luck, be safe and take care!
Martin, thanks for watching! Amateurs like company! I'm an amateur at everything, and always trying a new angle on things. Some things work, some don't. This isn't a new idea, and you may have seen similar approaches elsewhere. I've used this for the last couple years and my shoulders, elbows and wrists really appreciate not having to do as much sanding. I think the final "quality" of the fingerboard radius is far greater than sanding the entire shape too. They call me Bond, James Bond, John, will work too. Be safe and take care!
Thanks for watching! Great question regarding what part should/could be mdf. MDF is good where you run a screw through the lart flat area of the piece. It's prone to separating if a screw/fasten is run into the edge, or thin dimension of the piece. Hope that helps answer your question. Be safe and take care!
Jorge, thank you for watching! The PDF download link is in the video description, and also here: www.dropbox.com/s/focvdbrrbxl79of/FingerboardRadiusFixture.pdf?dl=0 Good luck with your project, take care!
I tried to built one yesterday. I wasn't able to get the wheels fit 100% on the caddy. So I thought about the whole thing, my idea now is to build a caddy with one wheel on one side, two on the other, so the caddy should be stable enough and can't be shaky anymore.
Bock Mania, thanks for watching. I understand the potential difficulty in getting the wheels aligned side-to-side. Not sure how you went about making the caddy, but maybe this will help. The two wooden sides that have the wheel bearing on them, should be cut together to be exactly the same length. Leaving them stacked and taped together to hold them. I drilled the wheel bearing bolt holes all the way through the pair of sides as if they were one piece. I used a drill press for this. This ensured that the wheels align perfectly to each other on opposite sides. Hope that makes sense. As for building a 3 wheeled caddy, Hmm. I'm not sure. My initial concern would be of potential "tipping" as the caddy roll back and forth, but I haven't tried it to really know how it would behave. I guess it would also depend on the location of the 3 bearing in relation to each other. If 2 bearings were directly across at one end of the caddy, and the 3rd at an opposite end... I would see instability. If 2 bearings were at opposite ends of one side, and the 3rd bearing in the center of the other side, a "tricycle" balance would be achieved, but the height of the bearings would differ from one side to the other as they would be resting at different locations on the cutting radius rail... WOW, this is sounding like engineering. Interesting! I'd say, take your time and give it a try. Experiment, have fun and learn from the process. You may be onto something great! Keep me posted as you work through this. It would be cool to hear and see your process and result. Thanks for the comment/question. Be safe and take care - and good luck with the project!
Hi John and thanks for the PDF files. I really need to make this next week as its fretboard week here. Excuse my stupid, but how thick are the rails (this, i'd image will effect final radius) and how thick is the final fretboard.
Jurgen, good to hear from you! I used 1/2" thick mdf for the trolley radius rails. You can use something thicker and it shouldn't matter. The fingerboard ends up being 1/4", or literally a hair under. The way I have this drawn up, the bottom and top rails are 3/4" mdf, the top rail and final fingerboard thickness would be 1" (fender-ish thickness). The Richlite fingerboard material I'm using is a fat 1/4", so next to nothing is removed at the center line of the fingerboard during the router radius process, and just a little during final finish sanding. If you use a thicker fingerboard to start with, you can creep up to your desired final thickness.. I hope that makes sense. I'll try to get you more info if needed when I get home. Take care!
Max, thanks for watching! Yes, and maybe .. The way this particular fixture is set up, you can radius any loose fingerboard, or a fingerboard mounted to a flat, fender style neck. Basically any neck without an angled headstock, or neck with a thick heel. The entire fixture could be modified/created to work primarily on angled headstock type necks, but that may be a standalone tool. As for block inlays, that should not be a problem for the fixture or the router setup, but may depend on the quality of router bit being used and the thickness/depth of the block inlays. So, yes it definitely could work, but each unique instance could have variables they may need consideration. Hope this helps. He safe and take care!
@@theNextProject thank you for the reply. I have a similar jig and have wussed out of using it on several occasions because I don't trust it not to destroy the block inlays I use. I may try it on my next guitar. Thanks again
Jeffrey, thanks for watching and sorry to hear the link is acting up. Please try this link. It should download from Dropbox: www.dropbox.com/s/focvdbrrbxl79of/FingerboardRadiusFixture.pdf?dl=0
Thanks for watching! I primarily use a flat bottom 2 flute, 1" diameter bit. I believe it is considered a "waste board surfacing bit". There is a pdf in the description that explains the fixture and what I use for a bit. You can definitely experiment with other bits. Good luck with your project, take care!
Thanks for watching! The added 1" is to create clearance between the cutting surface (fingerboard radius) and the router sled/trolley. 1" was just a convenient dimension for my initial design development. You can change the 1" dimension to something else, such as 25mm, etc., but you'd need to keep track of your offset to ensure your final radius was correct. Hope that helps. If you haven't already, there is a link in the description with more information and some detail. That may better answer your question. PDF Download Link: www.dropbox.com/s/focvdbrrbxl79of/FingerboardRadiusFixture.pdf?dl=0 Good luck with your projects!
A NEW AND IMPROVED PDF IS NOW LINKED!!!
And the moment we’ve been waiting for!!! A compound radius jig…. We’re waiting 😂
Ah man, that will take some thought. Hmm, who can I borrow an idea from. Let me think.
I really appreciate you providing this for the rest of us. I built one and successfully routed my first fingerboards and just sent a $2 thanks.
James l, thanks for watching and many thanks for the support, I greatly appreciate it!
Take any ideas you find and improve on them, make them your own.
Good luck with your projects, be safe and take care and thank you again!
Thank god I found your channel.People are asking crazy money for one of these.I’ll just learn from you hahaha thanx man
Cyclops, thanks for watching!
I'm using that tool again today, just made a 9.5" radius set of rails to re-radius a fender 7.25, to 9.5. I'll post a vid in a couple weeks. But, I've changed the design slightly, I now bolt the radius ends on the flat rails. More interchangeable now.
Good luck with your projects, be safe and take care!
Thx bro, this is awesome, already donated! 😊
René, thanks for watching and glad you liked the tool project.
Be safe and take care!
Nothing like a super sharp hand plane and a radius block. Fast and easy. Lest than 5 minutes and it’s done
WatchnLearn, thanks for watching!
I've seen what you mention, but never done it that way myself. Always new things to try.
Hope you are well, take care!
Brilliant work, I love your ingenuity.
Jim, thanks for watching!
I can't take credit for the idea... it's already out there.
I don't really know who came up with it, probably some old ship builder, or fine furniture fellas.
It is a slick way to save wear and tear on the body, my joints greatly appreciate this device.
Be safe and take care!
Great help this little jig, and I'm very impressed that we actually have Craftsmen, who are willing to share their expertise AND be kind enough to provide a damn good drawing WITH ADD'L RADIUS'S (RADII) !!
Thanks for watching and I hope the drawing helps. You should be able to reverse engineer just about any radius you want.
Good luck with your project!
Great idea for the jig. Great video as usual.
Hey Jim, thanks for watching!
Glad you enjoyed the project, make one and make it better!
Thank you and take care.
Been waiting for this video all my life
Bahahaha! The time has finally arrived ;)
This is awesome, many thanks for this!
You're welcome, hope you enjoy the tool!
Thank you for the plans! Great video also!
Nevanet, thanks for watching.
Mod those plans, make them better.
Be safe, take care!
Been meaning to think about possibly planning making one of these, so you've added a shortcut to my procrastination! So thanks for the plans!
Cheers
Andrew
Reality, thanks for watching!
We all need a little push, now and then.
Improve on the idea, make it better.
Take care!
Thanx Mate! I purchased the Dan Nocetti 12" Planing Jig. I'll probably just spend the $$$ again for a 10" Rad. (RIC) Cradle cause i just don't have the time (or inclination) to make my own at present, but know that this WILL be filed away for the future, again thanx, and WOW! Gb g
George, thanks for watching!
Dan makes some nice stuff, you should be very happy with your purchase. He wasn't making the router fixtures when I made the vid, I may have been tempered to buy the setup from him too.
Happy radiuses to you, be safe and take care!
Very nice work, and thanks for sharing. I built one today based off of your plan here with a couple of minor changes. Really appreciate the video
Daniel, thanks for watching!
Glad the vid and PDF were of some help. Glad to hear you made changes/improvements to the plan.
I'm guessing once you get the hang of using the fixture, you'll be thrilled.
Take care!
Great idea, thanks for the plans.
Simon, thanks for watching.
You're welcome and good luck with your project.
Take care!
Your contribution is priceless.
Many thanks, greatly appreciated!
I'll simply say this is a great idea. Thank you.
Ray, thanks for watching!
This little fixture/Jig has saved me a LOT of time sanding.
There is still final finish sanding to do, but it is soooo much more enjoyable.
Be sure to find the PDF plan/idea in the video description.
Good luck with your projects, take care!
Very nice with the plans ! Take care !
Hey Bob, thanks for watching!
I'm hoping everyone will take a look at the plans and improve on them, modify something, make it better.
Hope you are well, take care!
Great job!!
I build almost exactly the same setup last year. Still need to make some more radius templates, that video is a motivation to do that😎
Greetings from Germany
Andreas, good to hear from you and thanks for watching!
I have big plans to make more of these, but the reality is I don't need others, until I need them...ha.
Be safe and take care!
Nice, new sub looking forward to next project
Six of Five, thanks for watching!
Should be a project video dropping in a couple days.
Hope you enjoy the projects, take care!
Parabéns meu amigo, excelente trabalho!
Obrigado, muito apreciado!
Thank you, much appreciated!
Very nice! Educational content always a plus! I've made one of these to also account for angled/scarfed headstocks. Essentially a few extra platform pieces of mdf with a wide channel on one end to allow for bottom clearance. Sure there are other ways to skin that one.
Hey man, thanks for watching!
Nice "build up" to work on an angled headstock! Sounds like a great plan!
I am building this today! Thanks!
Metal, thanks for watching!
Good luck with your project.
One suggestion, do a practice run on some scrap material. Just tonget the hang of it and to verify radius and such.
Be safe and take care!
Amazing, thank you so much for the plans, no more excuses, I will build it.
Peter, thanks for watching.
Once you get it built and fine-tune it, life will be so easy.
You'll get to a point where you dread the few minutes of set-up and clean-up, rather than wrecking your arms and shoulders sanding a radius. Ah, the good old days of elbow pain and ice packs, LOL.
Good luck with your project.
Take care!
@@theNextProject I had a question, what height should the router bit be set at? or does that matter? thx
@Peter Costanza great question, and it does matter.
If the rails for a 14" radius fingerboard are cut at 15" radius, the bit will need to extend 1" below the rails. The deeper the bit extends, the tighter the radius of the fingerboard cut will be. Look over the pdf really well, it may answer some questions too.
The top center of the (finished) fingerboard should measure down 1" from the center highest point of the radius rails the router caddy will ride on.
With each project build, you may need to make changes to fit you equipment and work process. My plan can be changed as needed to work for you. When you're ready to "test", cut some test material and make adjustments before commiting to your real project.
As for cutting, I typically slide the length of the fingerboard, but I have since seen others cutting back-and-forth widthwise. To each there own, find what is comfortable for you.
Let me know if you have other questions and I'll try to help.
Good luck, and keep me posted!
I did this ..Works so good..Thank you for saving my arms and shoulder!! I didnt have any 3/4 MDF on hand so I glued 1/2 and 1/4 together , Works so good!!
Ashton, thanks for watching!
3/4" isn't necessary, and I have made the arched side rails from 1/2" mdf.
As long as you got it working, you're good!
Enjoy, be safe and take care!
Nice one.
You can also add a clamp for a vacuum cleaner pipe to that caddy so that all that sawdust is removed and not falling under the trolley.
Josef, thanks for watching!
Good idea you have there, I may rig something like that up and give it a try.
Be safe and take care!
Thank you very much for sharing ! I'll try to make this jig today 😉
Furycken Bass, thanks for watching.
Modify the plans/ideas however you see fit. Make it work for your equipment and process. What I'm showing is an idea, I've seen a few others take it and make changes which work for them.... Make it fun.
Good luck and take care!
@@theNextProject I realized the project today and I adapted it to my equipment as well as to the handle of my bass and the result is great! Really, thank you! It’s a pleasure to see good people on the net. Take care of yourself too.👍
Love it! Thank you
Tommy, thanks for watching.
Glad you like it, take care!
wowwwww... amazing work
Danial, thanks for watching.
Glad you enjoyed the project.
Take care!
Very simple but effective jig there. I will definitely download and use the plans.
I have finally gotten around to making guitars again and have two currently on the workbench.
One is a Harley Benton Tele kit, I reduced the body thickness, plugged the existing routes and fitted a maple cap today, also routed for twin p90s.
I'm only using the neck and body from the kit, fitting better quality pickups, pots etc.
The second project is an Ash body for a bass guitar neck that I happened to get my hands on. The neck is in good shape so I couldn't stand to see it go to waste.
Hope to get my Daughter to learn to play the Bass when it's done.
Hey Brian, good to hear from you and thanks for watching!
Sounds like a couple great projects you have going there. a Tele w p90s, very nice!
And a bass for a bass for your daughter, cool. Maybe you can also get her interested in the build of the bass. That would be a great "family" project.
Really good to hear you have your workspace together and are ready to make headway.
Good luck with the radius jig, Tele, and bass projects.
Be safe and take care!
thanks again!!
Thanks!
Many thanks!!!!!
God bless you man 🙏🏽 thanks
John, thanks for watching and God bless you to brother!
Hope you found the video and PDF in the description helpful.
Take care!
¡Gracias!
René, thank you!
Greatly appreciate the support!
hello there..i loved those plans..many thanks..my advise..install a dust collector..best wishes. jorge.
Jorge, thank you for watching.
Dust (chip) collector is a good idea.
Now that I'm in a better work setting, I am working on that. Well, it is on my to-do list.
Hope you are well, take care!
Great video but just for clarification. you cut the radius template at 1" wider than the called out radius to compensate for the 1' cutting depth.
Gary, thanks for watching!
The arched radius that the router caddy rides on is cut at a 1" greater radius than the final fingerboard radius. This does leave room for the caddy to traverse back-and-forth and for you to sneak up on final cut depth.
If you downloaded the pdf file from the description, it may shed more light on the build.
Good luck with your project.
Take care!
With the jig, it's impossible to make a mistake, foolproof.
Nope, I'm a fool and I make mistakes...and I have proof.
Thanks for watching, good luck with your project.
Great jig I'm just starting to build it , I want a 12 inch radius so if I got it right I should set my router compass to 13 inches
Simon, thanks for watching.
The way I have it set up, the arch radius is 1" greater than the final fingerboard radius. This allows room for the cutting bit between the bottom of the router and the fingerboard.
So, yes if I understand your question, you've got it right.
Please do a test cut/radius on some scrap material, and make adjustments to your build.
Keep me posted as to your project.
Good luck and take care!
@@theNextProject thank you so much for replying, I've cut the radius section 12inches today next part is the cradle for the router to sit in that's next weekend when I'm off work thanks again
Muito bom
obrigado
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
👍😊
I've just finished building multiple radii trolleys, what's cool is that you can use the same caddy on the various radii trolleys. I've also used the inverted arc part of the radius trolley to make an inverted radius trolley to route 1 piece sanding blocks / caul with same radius. Can't wait to make some fingerboards to try it. BTW, do you have/working on a neck contour carving jig?
Peter, thanks for watching and the great comment too.
The use of this idea to make radius beams is great. Be sure to carefully match the sanding beam to the radius. Some adjustments will likely be needed.
I'm glad you took the idea and made it your own!
Be safe and take care!
Oops - neck carving jig... Actually yes I am working on another neck carving jig. I had made an over arm router style fixture for my drill press, but I'm currently working on a "neck shaping box" now. That video is a bit down the road as I've got other fires burning too.
For the base idea, got to: www.on-guitars.com/blog/jigs/building-a-neck-contour-jig/
I'm not building that exact jig, but drawing a lot of ideas from it.
Also look at:
czcams.com/video/Rac62c5XfrQ/video.html
And:
www.homebuiltworkshop.com/tag/temple-guitars-guitar-neck-routing-jig/
All these and many, many more share the same basic idea, which appears to work great.
I thing I first saw this idea in a Bill Scheltema video a handful of years ago.
When I get my video done, it will join the ranks of those I borrow from.
Be safe and take care!
@@theNextProject I've looked at the over arm jig but do not feel safe running such a big router bit while hands are close it, I saw the "box type" as well but cannot find any plans to be able to make it as precise as possible, Anyhow let me know when you make it, I'm very interested in making one. I'm presently gathering ideas and wood and preparing for it. thank you again.
@@peternotpeter I completely understand about the overarm router. It is a bit crazy. My "box" style neck shaping jig will hopefully work for both bass and 6-string guitar neck length. At least that's the plan at this time.
Take care!
Thanks for the video and the plans! Starting making this but I think there's an issue that should be mentioned... It would seem either the spacing between the rollers or the depth of the router bit would have to be adjusted for the different radii. On the first page of the plans it seems you were careful to make sure the centerline of the wheels of the sled was 1" away from the finished fretboard surface. And you mention that when cutting the templates, always make the template radius 1" larger than the desired finish radius. However that will only work for one radius/wheel spacing setup. If you change the radius of the template, the router bit will no longer be 1" from the fretboard surface, thus changing your finished fretboard radius. One would either have to adjust the wheel spacing to maintain a 1" inch cut depth, or change the depth of the router bit to obtain the desired finished radius. The error would be very slight (e.g., ~0.07" switching from 12" to 9.5" radius) but it's there. Just though it merited mentioning for the OCD among us...
@@theNextProject Was there supposed to be more to this reply? Seems like it was cut off.
Richard, sorry about that, my phone has stopped working...
Okay, sorry for the confusion on the plans.
The 1" off set is between the cutting radius and the rail radius. Not the center of the bearings to the cut.
Each router caddy will have to be made for the dimensions of the given router/base. If the roller bearings are spaced to widely, the caddy will sit too low and cause interference with the fingerboard. Also, if the bearings are too wide, they will tend to drop off the ends of the trolley radius at the end of travel.
Sorry, that is information people will need to know, but might be a good thing to learn firsthand during the build. Maybe.
The depth of cut is controlled by the router base, and not the caddy nor the trolley.
Let me know if this answers your question/ concern.
Thaks for watching and the great question.
Take care!
Hmm, I just took a look at the plans, did an overlay of the caddy as drawn and the only thing that needs to be adjusted is the depth of cut of the router bit. I overlaid the 7.25" though the 20" and the bit stays on the cutting line consistently for all. Again, the depth the bit needs to extend will differ, but the cut radius to rail radius works with the caddy as drawn.
I'll post an updated PDF showing this tonight when I get home.
Thanks again, take care!
Richard, I've uploaded an updated PDF with a little more information.
Let me know if this helps or not.
Thanks again for your question, made me think... that's a good thing for me to do once in a while.
Be safe and take care!
@@theNextProject Nice addition to the PDF. BTW - I was so interested in this project because I HAVE hand-sanded a Richlite blank to a 12" radius. Never again! I'm in the middle of making this jig now.
pase por aca solo para decirte que te amo
saludos desde Argentina
Gracias por el amor, y por ver el video.
Espero que todo te vaya bien en Argentina.
¡Cuídate!
----
Thanks for the love, and for watching the video.
I hope everything goes well for you in Argentina.
Take care of yourself!
@@theNextProject gracias genio
What's a trolley/caddy between friends? But yeah, these jigs are a time and arm saver!
So true...I probably use the wrong words for the parts.
The caddy is likely a trolley, and trolley is - whatever it is.
Thought I saw a definition stating trolley is also undergarments. Idk.
Take care my friend!
@@theNextProject Yeah, underpants for some regions in the UK. Someone who is drunk could also be described as "trollied". You're welcome :)
Oh crap I just notice that another drawing, PDF? is available.......... clicked on it but ??? nothing ?? thanks
Please try this link. It seems to be working on this end.
PDF Download Link:
www.dropbox.com/s/focvdbrrbxl79of/FingerboardRadiusFixture.pdf?dl=0
Well, I've once seen a professional device for getting a radius on a fingerboard. It's as simple as a pendulum and a belt sander. So the pendulum is 14 inches long, and the belt sander is below, and then the guitar neck is just swinging over the belt and gets the radius.
Well, my own project with cutting the scratchplate went terribly wrong. Think I'm just gonna spend some money and get me the scratchplate crafted as I want it. Volume and tone 2 as holes for American pots, in place of the hole for tone 1 a 16 mm hole for the kill switch. And I totally screwed the easiest part, the slot for the lever switch. This should have been so easy, but I blew it!
I don't think I get a second blank Strat-scratchplate, I'm gonna have me one made to my specs. The space for the bridge humbucker simply 8 mm further away from the bridge.
Well, I will solder on the screwed pick guard and I'll replace it soon as I have the custom-made one!
Achim, sorry to hear your scratchplate project got buggered up, been there, feel your pain.
The swinging pendulum radius sander for fingerboards is great, if you have the big sander and the pendulum attachment. I guess you could make the pendulum swingarm fixture.
I've seen the Texas Toast videos of such a device and I want to say there's a factory walk-through video of some "brand" name guitars that use that same method.
Now that I think of it, Warmoth may also use the pendulum for their radius needs.
Maybe someday I'll work my way up to that...maybe, ha.
I hope you have better luck going forward with your scratchplate.
Good luck, be safe and take care!
A great way for an amateur like me to get a professional result. Thanks for sharing. By the way, what's your name?
Martin, thanks for watching!
Amateurs like company! I'm an amateur at everything, and always trying a new angle on things. Some things work, some don't. This isn't a new idea, and you may have seen similar approaches elsewhere.
I've used this for the last couple years and my shoulders, elbows and wrists really appreciate not having to do as much sanding.
I think the final "quality" of the fingerboard radius is far greater than sanding the entire shape too.
They call me Bond, James Bond,
John, will work too.
Be safe and take care!
Awesome video - thank you! Question: could the pine pieces also be MDF?
Thanks for watching!
Great question regarding what part should/could be mdf.
MDF is good where you run a screw through the lart flat area of the piece. It's prone to separating if a screw/fasten is run into the edge, or thin dimension of the piece.
Hope that helps answer your question.
Be safe and take care!
hello there..i am interested in that jig..how could i find the pdf files? thanks. jorge.
Jorge, thank you for watching!
The PDF download link is in the video description, and also here:
www.dropbox.com/s/focvdbrrbxl79of/FingerboardRadiusFixture.pdf?dl=0
Good luck with your project, take care!
@@theNextProject hello dear friends at the next project..many thanks for the download link..congratulations for the design..best regards..jorge.
I tried to built one yesterday. I wasn't able to get the wheels fit 100% on the caddy. So I thought about the whole thing, my idea now is to build a caddy with one wheel on one side, two on the other, so the caddy should be stable enough and can't be shaky anymore.
Bock Mania, thanks for watching.
I understand the potential difficulty in getting the wheels aligned side-to-side.
Not sure how you went about making the caddy, but maybe this will help.
The two wooden sides that have the wheel bearing on them, should be cut together to be exactly the same length. Leaving them stacked and taped together to hold them. I drilled the wheel bearing bolt holes all the way through the pair of sides as if they were one piece. I used a drill press for this.
This ensured that the wheels align perfectly to each other on opposite sides. Hope that makes sense.
As for building a 3 wheeled caddy, Hmm. I'm not sure.
My initial concern would be of potential "tipping" as the caddy roll back and forth, but I haven't tried it to really know how it would behave.
I guess it would also depend on the location of the 3 bearing in relation to each other. If 2 bearings were directly across at one end of the caddy, and the 3rd at an opposite end... I would see instability.
If 2 bearings were at opposite ends of one side, and the 3rd bearing in the center of the other side, a "tricycle" balance would be achieved, but the height of the bearings would differ from one side to the other as they would be resting at different locations on the cutting radius rail... WOW, this is sounding like engineering. Interesting!
I'd say, take your time and give it a try.
Experiment, have fun and learn from the process. You may be onto something great!
Keep me posted as you work through this. It would be cool to hear and see your process and result.
Thanks for the comment/question.
Be safe and take care - and good luck with the project!
Hi John and thanks for the PDF files. I really need to make this next week as its fretboard week here. Excuse my stupid, but how thick are the rails (this, i'd image will effect final radius) and how thick is the final fretboard.
Jurgen, good to hear from you! I used 1/2" thick mdf for the trolley radius rails. You can use something thicker and it shouldn't matter.
The fingerboard ends up being 1/4", or literally a hair under. The way I have this drawn up, the bottom and top rails are 3/4" mdf, the top rail and final fingerboard thickness would be 1" (fender-ish thickness).
The Richlite fingerboard material I'm using is a fat 1/4", so next to nothing is removed at the center line of the fingerboard during the router radius process, and just a little during final finish sanding. If you use a thicker fingerboard to start with, you can creep up to your desired final thickness..
I hope that makes sense.
I'll try to get you more info if needed when I get home.
Take care!
@@theNextProject thanks so much John.... I'll get onto it this weekend, I'll email you a pic when done. Now.. How many mm in an inch??? 😳😳😳😜😜
Question: How many millimeters in an inch?
Answer: as many as will fit.
🤣
@@theNextProject 😂 I knew I could rely on you
Hey brother, there is an updated PDF at the link. It will hopefully shed more light on the project.
Take care!
Would this be usable on a neck with a block inlaid fretboard? Thanks.
Max, thanks for watching!
Yes, and maybe ..
The way this particular fixture is set up, you can radius any loose fingerboard, or a fingerboard mounted to a flat, fender style neck. Basically any neck without an angled headstock, or neck with a thick heel.
The entire fixture could be modified/created to work primarily on angled headstock type necks, but that may be a standalone tool.
As for block inlays, that should not be a problem for the fixture or the router setup, but may depend on the quality of router bit being used and the thickness/depth of the block inlays.
So, yes it definitely could work, but each unique instance could have variables they may need consideration.
Hope this helps.
He safe and take care!
@@theNextProject thank you for the reply. I have a similar jig and have wussed out of using it on several occasions because I don't trust it not to destroy the block inlays I use. I may try it on my next guitar.
Thanks again
Great project, but unfortunately the PDF file can not be downloaded
Jeffrey, thanks for watching and sorry to hear the link is acting up.
Please try this link. It should download from Dropbox:
www.dropbox.com/s/focvdbrrbxl79of/FingerboardRadiusFixture.pdf?dl=0
Hello, what kind cutter bit you using🤔
Thanks for watching!
I primarily use a flat bottom 2 flute, 1" diameter bit. I believe it is considered a "waste board surfacing bit". There is a pdf in the description that explains the fixture and what I use for a bit.
You can definitely experiment with other bits.
Good luck with your project, take care!
Thanks sir. Why to add 1" radius more for the jig
Thanks for watching!
The added 1" is to create clearance between the cutting surface (fingerboard radius) and the router sled/trolley. 1" was just a convenient dimension for my initial design development.
You can change the 1" dimension to something else, such as 25mm, etc., but you'd need to keep track of your offset to ensure your final radius was correct.
Hope that helps.
If you haven't already, there is a link in the description with more information and some detail. That may better answer your question.
PDF Download Link:
www.dropbox.com/s/focvdbrrbxl79of/FingerboardRadiusFixture.pdf?dl=0
Good luck with your projects!
Thanks sir for your help.
If u need high quality ebony or Rosewood fretboards then let me know.
Always good to find a source. Thank you!
genio gracias🤗
¡Gracias por ver!
De nada.
Buena suerte con tus proyectos!
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Thanks for watching!
You are welcome.
Good luck with your projects!