The problem with flashing the sill like that is it's not bonded or tied in to anything to hold it in place. That's not a problem for the header because it bonds and ties in higher up and has sufficient weight on top of it to hold it in place. There's nothing holding the sill in place, if somebody leans on it or puts pressure on it, it can roll right out.
your flashing needs to come PAST the lintel edge slightly to protect it. It should also be sealed below the flashing to the lintel. your lintel is to close wall line also you'll never get enough mortar in front of it to stay very long. Folding your wrap up means zero because water should never get there anyway unless your window flashing fails. It would have no end dam and just run out the sides to the corners.
We have a brick veneer front on our home. We have had a leak near the bay window for the past 23 years. We have had numerous repairs, brick waterproof spray and 2 new bay window roofs installed and yet it still leaks into the house. The leak has ranged from continuous water running through ceiling during heavy rain to slower drips to ceiling stains. We have just learned that our parapets are built incorrectly - they are not sloped at all. But how can determine if this is the exact cause of our leak. How can determine if the veneer brick wall was built correctly; with an air gap, proper flashing at the 2 upper story windows & step flashing around the bay window's roof? And who can we contact to make the necessary repairs once and for all?! Please help.
I worked for a large commercial masonry company that 'insisted' that the flashing and termination bars be installed BEHIND the building wrap.! Which I thought was the Stupidest thing.. They had us cutting that house wrap up like a bunch of derelicts, breaching it's integrity and then taping it up😂..
Hi. If a window installer doesn't install flashing on the sill before installing a replacement window, but uses silicon caulking to create a seal around the entire window (silicon seals the gap between window and brick)...is this sufficient? Thanks.
Junior Sanchez Thanks. Im on your side, but inspector comes after window is installed and sealed up....so how does the inspector know if it was waterproofed with flashing tape correctly? Lowes is telling me they do NOT install flashing tape (nor add non-expansion foam) in any of their replacement windows installs...which I think is wrong based on my research and by what you just replied with. The funny thing is, a Lowes youtube video on how to install a replacement window specifically states for a proper install to add flashing tape (and non-expansion foam for insulation)
joapps -- A brick repair person can use a hammer-drill to remove the bricks above and below the window and then install the correct flashing and replace the bricks. Window installers don't know how to do brick work.
My guess is bricks (stone) are a no maintenance item when compared to Hardi plank or wood (repaint @ 5 yrs). Just have to paint trim. If the stick framing behind the brick is properly insulated, brick's low R won't matter much.
You are a fantastic instructor. Thank you!
Amazing demonstration for flashing system on openings. Cheers mate
I have no idea how I ended up here but I really enjoyed your presentation haha bravo!
I can tell you are not just a spokesman but a knowledgeable instructor. And props to the cad programmer for the 3D renderings.
Very helpful for my project. Thank you!
Sic guitar ensemble!
I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!!!!!
Nice video.Very helpful.
this man is golden
The problem with flashing the sill like that is it's not bonded or tied in to anything to hold it in place. That's not a problem for the header because it bonds and ties in higher up and has sufficient weight on top of it to hold it in place. There's nothing holding the sill in place, if somebody leans on it or puts pressure on it, it can roll right out.
Certainly not, the strength is gained from the joints laterally. So basically the sill it tied into both panels each side and can’t be pushed out
Just removed the original windows in my 30 year old brick house . No flashing and not a hint of any water damage .
Thanks sir 🙏
your flashing needs to come PAST the lintel edge slightly to protect it. It should also be sealed below the flashing to the lintel. your lintel is to close wall line also you'll never get enough mortar in front of it to stay very long. Folding your wrap up means zero because water should never get there anyway unless your window flashing fails. It would have no end dam and just run out the sides to the corners.
We have a brick veneer front on our home. We have had a leak near the bay window for the past 23 years. We have had numerous repairs, brick waterproof spray and 2 new bay window roofs installed and yet it still leaks into the house. The leak has ranged from continuous water running through ceiling during heavy rain to slower drips to ceiling stains. We have just learned that our parapets are built incorrectly - they are not sloped at all. But how can determine if this is the exact cause of our leak. How can determine if the veneer brick wall was built correctly; with an air gap, proper flashing at the 2 upper story windows & step flashing around the bay window's roof? And who can we contact to make the necessary repairs once and for all?! Please help.
Please share a video which shows how to construct brick veneer near a simple gable roof
this window needs a control joint
it sure wasn't a bricklayer who smeared up your wall it was a shoemaker.
I worked for a large commercial masonry company that 'insisted' that the flashing and termination bars be installed BEHIND the building wrap.! Which I thought was the Stupidest thing.. They had us cutting that house wrap up like a bunch of derelicts, breaching it's integrity and then taping it up😂..
Weep holes under sill bricks and positioning of damp course flashing ..... at. 7:00
my 60's doesn't have any flashing, is there a way to fix it without removing the bricks?
my dream to learn how to bild brick please make my dream real
Wow a video made buy a pro
Hi. If a window installer doesn't install flashing on the sill before installing a replacement window, but uses silicon caulking to create a seal around the entire window (silicon seals the gap between window and brick)...is this sufficient? Thanks.
Junior Sanchez Thanks. Im on your side, but inspector comes after window is installed and sealed up....so how does the inspector know if it was waterproofed with flashing tape correctly?
Lowes is telling me they do NOT install flashing tape (nor add non-expansion foam) in any of their replacement windows installs...which I think is wrong based on my research and by what you just replied with. The funny thing is, a Lowes youtube video on how to install a replacement window specifically states for a proper install to add flashing tape (and non-expansion foam for insulation)
joapps -- A brick repair person can use a hammer-drill to remove the bricks above and below the window and then install the correct flashing and replace the bricks. Window installers don't know how to do brick work.
And when it leaks the phone will ring,if you're still in business.
Bricks are so porous -- and have such poor R values -- why do we still use them?
My guess is bricks (stone) are a no maintenance item when compared to Hardi plank or wood (repaint @ 5 yrs). Just have to paint trim. If the stick framing behind the brick is properly insulated, brick's low R won't matter much.
Use water struck brick,insulation goes behind any veneer.Assuming some idiot doesn't paint them 0 maintenance.
Nonsense requirement. How the heck does water get into the cavity. Magic.