7018 Open Root Challenge
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- #welddotcom
It's his first first time welding 7018 open root.
No research.
No advice.
Just a little prayer to the welding gods...
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You also get serious porosity when long arc a 7018. Thanks for the promotion! Love your videos even more right now.
Hello young man, I have had a go at the same challenge Mancub did. My first attempts on DCEP at 115amps went a bit wrong in that 115amps was too hot. I eventually got somewhere near at 90 amps. Sadly the camera battery died and I lost the footage I wanted. However, I reverted to my phone and did another run on DCEN at 80amps on my Oerlikon Presto 140G. I have posted a video on my channel of the result. I am not a qualified welder, just farm repair welder and weld for my own enjoyment and repairs. Have put a card and end screen to your channel and videos too.
czcams.com/video/mc4qfTgRQ9k/video.html
Some welder talked smack to an engineer and next thing ya know there was a blueprint with a 7018 open root pass
lol that was scary
Same stuff we go thru. I tell the engineers if you can not pass the procedure yourself you should not be able to tell us anything.
Shit! i'm taking this class tomorrow! Still need to retake my 4g, but our roots will be all 7018.
This is what we are taught to weld with here in scandinavia, 7018 all the way.
We almost always use remote controls in one hand while welding root and the basic tehnique for both pipe and plate is to repeat a U movement with the electrode within the groove and letting the root fill up. Awesome work guys!
First thing in the search engine after typing in “7018 stick welding open root” was literally Bob on Weld.com’s youtube
I knew Bob did that a few years ago. Lol Northern Sweden Welding (been subed for years) is a nice channel though.
Yeah it doesn’t make sense why they would upload this video though. It’s like “are you seriously doing this for views man?”
Fuck bob 😂
Why would you not turn the amperage down? Way to hot
@@masonsmith7018 Troll
I welded pipe in Sweden back in the 90s. Swedish welders and most Europeans use a hand remote to control their amperage while running the root, filler and cap. If the root is done right, it will peel off just like a 7018 cap. The root should be 1/8” gap run on negative, using a diamond motion. Since , I’ve moved back to the West Coast 28 years ago, I have never seen a 7018 root in America. It kicks ass. Cheers TyT
Hey Mancub, in welding school this week we learned to do this, you want to weave back and forth in a tight arc, with a 1/8th rod I was doing 85 amps cold, keep your stick at around a 100 degree angle and keep your wrist in the same position, trust me it worked really well for me.
I've done a lot of this welding. Set up that work for me : bevel edge 30-35 degrees, 1-1.5 mm landing, 3.5 mm gap, electrod 2.4 mm DCEP.
Good pointers 👏🏼
Thank you!
I learned to do this in my classes 30 years ago.... 7018 up hand cap heat, straight polarity, tight arc(pretty much walking the flux) and a straight in to a pulling angle to help smooth the backside. If you do it right when you buff the back you would almost say it was a tig root. Good luck
Slag peel is so satisfying on the root
7018 u need a tight arc. Stops porosity. 2.4 mm gap and land. Can hold it in at about 80-90 amps, DC Negative 😀👍🏻
Thanks for the heads up. Definitely going to practice
that 80-90 amps is for a 3/32 rod not the 1/8 he was using tho...
What the @#$% is 2.4 mm. Lol
Liberty Dankmeme 80-90 for a 3/16????😂😂
@@gmfiorini am i off that much? maybe it's the metric messing me up
finally someone who welds like me lol.
Yes. I was thinking the same thing lol.
i can finally sleep in peace after watching this vid
Do you mean bad or using 7018 on a open root
@@TherealMandingo I wouldn't say bad, just not perfect.
If the parts don't fall apart..... It's a good weld!
We do this all the time with 7018's on the shipyard. It's always assumed back gouging will be necessary to get the slag and porosity out.
That's all they allow in shipyard (at least by me) is 7018, even if your just tacking something... no 6010 at all. Of course production work is all dual shield flux core 100% co2.
So at least from a pipe fitters perspective, we tack and do all open roots with 6010 not only because of its ability to weld rust, oil etc, but because it’s a fast freeze electrode. An open root with a 7018, being a fill-freeze rod would be very complicated because you’ll heat up and just start dumping metal out of the gap. The keyhole won’t be a keyhole because gravity takes over, and 7018s need more amperage, which means more heat. The instinct to whip out of the puddle is the biggest thing you’d want to avoid because you’re just whipping in all that flux, causing porosity. 7018s have to be steadily pushed, with electrode at leading edge of a steadily supplied puddle. There are probably people with more technical answers but that should be close.
Your explanation is beautiful. And you’re the pipe fitter. Some pipe fitter you are. Haha. Nice job. I’m a student in welding school. Was able to pass SMAW groove welds but being that my combo program is only 7 months and never had any construction job or experience I decided to move onto Mig welding and practice SMAW open root and pipe here at home… wit my $120 stick welder. I’m here outside so mad bc I been trying to run an open root with 7018. I’m sure it can be done, I’m not that good yet tho. Going to go get the 6010’s I took from school. They are 1/8. I hope I do well. But I’m just going to sit here and take a break for a moment. Summer down here in south texas. It is hot. Thank you Mr MC
@@delayedsantana yeah, I used rush through any cutting, grinding, drilling, or any other menial tasks apprentices get, just so my foreman would let me weld on the bench. In my opinion, there’s no better experience than working right next to a really good welder, who likes to teach. I’m not sure what they do in the oil fields or pipelines, but UA building trades journeymen will typically see mild steel pipe, groove welds, 30° bevel on a 3/32” land, w/a 3/32” gap. The root will be done in an 1/8” 6010, and everything else will be 7018 out. The 6010 is essential given the field conditions, and the gap. Keep welding and keep learning! It’s a great industry.
Awesome to see people be honest and teach about what they learned instead of just making it seem they are the Betty Whites of the industry. Love the videos and I recommend them often.
Hey Mancub my welding teacher taught us how to do this these past few days, keep a tight arc and weave back and forth and keep your stick at about a 100 degree angle, you will be fine after some practice.
im on the phone with bob moffat
somebody needs to be ... this is getting outta hand
😂😂
I've done this but you have to reverse polarity to have a good penetration. I have to use 7018 as root pass bec. No available 6010 on-board for a time constraints projects.
39 years ago we had to this setup on the box (aka.all 4positions)for the final exam. We used 3/32 root face,rod,and gap.
Props for posting the video despite the results
It's Justin Bartha from National Treasure.
This was too funny! 4:28 "and i'm pushing as hard as i can, it's not going in...oh, oh my god we got.... oh it's too big" 😂
-------Love the fact you guys video and post everything. Good to see you using the plate stand you made too.
welders get more penetration 🤣
Mike, keeping it real is great. This shows how to work through and learn new techniques. Uncle Bob and Redbeard would be proud! Nice vid.
This is why I follow this channel shows me what to do and what not to do either way you learn
I love seeing the struggle instead of just showing success. Never done a open root with 7018 only done it with 6010, I might try it sometime. What I find helpful for a large keyhole is to whip the rod in a mildly fast upside down "v" pattern but idk if it will work for everyone
Look for Brazil welder, I think you need to keep it straight up, watch out for that key hole, Is a VERY difficult but not impossible
1” j whips, you watch the puddle completely slag. We have to do this at coal mines all the time, they never shutdown.
When we do pipes in north of sweden we use remotecontrol also helps a lot
Swap to AC or keep running dcen but the key it to keep a tight arc and don't out run the puddle. 1/16-3/32" land with a loose ³/32" gap 3/32" electrode 75-80 amps. A full length electrode should get you about 4" of weld, just referencing how show you have to go.
You have weld it on dc-,Bob did it already.
2.5 mm ,Phillips 56s rods electrode negative 70 amps+-
.25 mm root face 3.25 mm gap .keep the rod on the edges of pool don't manipulate unless you have to .that was the way i did it back in the day .it was the test on 6g pipe to get on the off shore work in the uk
2.5mm gap in the bottom. 3 2mm gap in the top. 2mm land. 2.5mm electrode 80amps +- 5 amps. Side to side movment
I run no land and use dcen for the root, 3mm gap 2,5 mm rods around 65 amps
Thanks for the Tips. I Thanks for watching 👀 Weld.com. Stay healthy
uphill? what is your rod angle like?
@@peetky8645 pretty much straight, very slight push angle
This is what we use a lot of at my company in Canada
Try the Alaska pipeline test, 8 inch pipe 6G, 7018 root, hotpass, filler and cap. 3/32 rod for the root is best. Have fun.
I learned that there are welding God's today... thanks mancub, I'll see if they listen to me the next time I weld. 👍😀
From my experience it works a lot better with 7016 over 7018, have the gap and root face the same size as the rod your using and use only a slight whip
I would have tried a close gap, tight arc and use a "U" shaped type motion up the weld seam. I have some plate suitable to have a go at this challenge so will have a go at it. I am not a qualified welder and if it turns out any good I will publish the video of it.
Close gap not allowed Must allow for weld contraction Otherwise root cracks could appear on cooling
Boilermakers Local128 loves 7018 easy peasy
Shit dude keep your head up! We 've all been there. Try a slight weave side to side.
When i was in ship repair in uk circa y2k, i was a plater n the older welders loved huge gaps, 12 mm plate, 3mm nose, 3-4mm gap. Get up around anchor pockets n keel bars of 2”-4” n the gaps were easy upto 1”. I think the rods were vodex, real pink in colour n quite a heavy slag. 👍🇬🇧👍
I did this in school as an attempt to get an F4 all-the-way-out unlimited pipe cert, because a normal 'unlimited' cert still limits you to an F3 electrode for the root.
I was able to get it on my second attempt. 3/32" land, 3/32" gap, 1/8" 7018, ~125 amps and running AC. No DCN or DCP. I was welding on an old Synchrowave. Probably would have gone better had I used an inverter machine with a stiffer arc.
Very difficult to do, and I did not end up attempting the cert test due to time limits. I did a normal unlimited pipe test instead.
I run out of 7016 rods and try root with 7018 and i got the same picture
I've done these for pipe, thicker landing and a more open gap. Its fun!
Dude, use 7016 for the root. Basically the same but slower and more controllable.
You are right smoother to run and good profile on back of plate I used to use 4.00mm Philips 56s7016 open root .Cap and fill Phillips 7018 12 mm t pl. As with Low High Close arc always to prevent porosity
I learnt 7018 root in high school I passed my 2g 3g and 4g we used 3/32 on like 90 amp once you get it i prefer it to 6010
Should be much stronger than 6010 also.
In England this is sort of just how we do it 🤣🤣
Finally to see someone welding with really high quality electrodes! Böhler are the maybach! I'm not seeing them in any western (US) video?! Normally, the slag is is self separating and falling down by it self in one piece. A real pleasure, though they are not cheep at all!
I’d just stick with the dcep 1/8 gap and 115-120 amp low dig and butter that weld rite in. Ain’t to hard just “know when to hold’em and when to fold’em”
Practice makes perfect! Just got to keep trying!
*I just did my first 7018 weld in school last week... Came out dimes.*
Lol dcen really helps for 7018 open root. Welcome to the rest of the world
would probably have been good to use AC.....Like with a big heavy transformer in a steel box full of oil.........How we welded for most of 100 years????????????? BUT Good on You for having a public go at this. Keep it up....... trying different things is the only way to learn... ANOTHER FIRST COMMENT FROM BALLYNAHINCH IN NORTHERN IRELAND...Keep safe Y'ALL
Just passed my MMA 2 here in England and we have to do an open root up with 6013, true it is a right challenge. Thanks for the vid awesome as usual 👍👍👍
Wish that the welding gods were on my side when I did my test. You’re awesome mancub, know the feeling. Keep em comin
When doing 7018 open root, you want a 3/32nd opening and you want to stay on the leading edge of the puddle.
Get Fox EV 50 W for open root and use dcen. Or you get Fox EV Pipe, dcen. Get some 2.5mm and keep the arc short. Move up just by weaves. 2-3mm gap.
Close arc always with LH electrode Prevents porosity from rear of plate
That looks like a fun challenge.
Ohh its fun..Thanks for watching 👀 Weld.com
@@mancubwelder7924 I wonder if a tighter gap would help along with a run-off tab.
@@welderdude1 a remote control would helped a lot
@@user-zr6gh7mb4y I agree.
7016 Open root
I would just use AC so I won't risk getting any arc blow.
I would try 2.5mm 6011 electrode, 1.5mm land and 2mm gap.
Good video Sir.I really admire the way you do it.Thats nice Job.Im a women but....I’m also a wilder.
Thank you. Thanks for watching 👀 Weld.com. stay healthy
ManCub Welder I subscribe your channel please subscribe on mine too.Thank you
Who doesn't love wilder women?
Oh no! Don’t long arc or whip 7018! Slag inclusions and porosity for days!
I tried this with a 6013 on 1.6mm tubing, with a 2mm gap using a 1.6mm rod dcen 20amps . I figure a wider gap will let me weave side to side a bit but, my challenge with this is getting the filler to fuse to both sides. If I stay long enough to fuse, I end up making the pool too fluid and sags down like a ball, if I go faster I just get lack of fusion and gaps. Any tips? I’m practicing 6013 because I want to eventually use 309-16. 309 is just too expensive these days to practice with and the dense slag is very similar.
Man cub those were good attempts. What i found that helped me is going straight in with a slight drag angle like maybe 2°. Its not much but you can kind of do mini whips or turning the stinger side to side key holing the root if it opens up too much. Letting it cool down helps tremendously as well. Look forward to a redemption video very soon, cheers from another brother from the great white North (Canada)
Retired Boilermaker 35yrs, Oyster creek nuclear plant weld test , 6" XX heavy wall coupon 6G open root Low Hy(7018), make or break test Xray. No grinders , just a slag pick wire brush and a file, 2 hr time limit. So whats the big deal with doing s 6" 3/8 plate in the vertical but, kinda laid back says the test booth proctor.
DCEN is the trick
If the key hole getting too big stop for a second let it cool and go back in
Try straight polarity and turn your heat down
Still better than my stick ability
5:34
Looks like a vulva. Weld is bad too.
Never feed us trolls...
115 amps on 7018 rod ? Should’ve went faster
Get some Böhler Fox EV 50-W rods. Those are 7016 and better suited for open root and run a lot nicer on DCEN.
The 7016 puddle is a bit less fluid then a 7018 puddle which makes it a lot easier to control. I think its because of less iron powder in the flux. Don't whip as you did in your first try. Whipping low hydrogen rod is a no-no because of slag inclusion. But i bet you already knew that.
Good job man cub! Just gotta keep practicing.
Esa es la técnica yo aplicó así
A veces uso un electrodo 7018 calentado previamente
Y lo uso como aporte
We use them rods all the time at my work they are abit hard to use but you get used to them
We always just weld it if there's enough interest I'll do a structural connection something I do almost every day
You had your cables right the first time before switching them. Can’t believe no one noticed that in the comments.
I gotta pass a 12” 1/4” wall branch next week open root 7018. Four 2” coupons come out at 12 3 6 and 9 o clock. Any tips 🤔🔫
what is better welder for multi process machine
everlast or miller
Canadian thanksgiving is coming up in a couple of weeks.
Please explain to me why DC EN when 7018 is basic electrode and needs DC EP??? I works on EN but.....runs better on EP?? What am i missing?
Milcu Robert less heat input
Its true what they say "Those that can't do teach"
Try doing a small U pattern instead of just going straight up
37.5 bevel.. .06 land, .06 gap.. 3/32 7018 70 -80 amps.. tight arc.. fast..just drag it it will look like a gtaw root when your done.. do not open a key hole.. you can do it..
Would you run DCEN or DCEP? Tthanks
Dcep gives the best pen..
2.5 DCEN root then DCEP hot pass fill cap with 3.2
If you do a figure 8 when it gap is little wide it works better
Lmao buddy I just took a test for a guy and he had me do this. I though he was kidding but nope. Long story short I got the job but yeah it was not pretty. Cool video though
European? In Canada on the east coast we need to do 6010 open root 4 position then 7018 open root 4 position on DCeP and thats a prerequisite to test on 6" pipe.
3/32 land and gap use a 3/32 rod 1/8 land and cap use a 1/8 rod.. I suggest 3/32. Stay in the key hole with a little pressure and if it starts to open up increase arc length and oscillate the rod slightly. The thests here are called F3 open root F4 open root. Once you get your F3/F4 you can test for an approved 6g pipe ticket on 6" sched 80, after that you can test for qualified (b-pressure). -- These tests need to be completed and pass a bend test to receive your red seal/journeyman classification ticket
Not bad. I am not the best at anything. This comment section will not let me attach pics. Promise you it is not easy, was fortunate enough to have an old timer teach me how to do it. Can be done successfully and repeatable. Even on pipe.
For the root must electrodes thinner?
80 for root 110 max.obs depending on steel thickness..oh im english..next try it over head
maybe try 7018 3/32rod 1/16th land and gap downhill dcep dragging the rod to let the arc force keep up the puddle, then use with dcen, then compare with uphill. also, try a/c smaw - would like to see what that does with 7018 open root. I assume a/c would give a smoother arc and less penetration than You changed rod size and amps, polarity, and fitup. you should change only one at a time, beginning with your first disaster and then run thru the variables. you could do 3 months of videos on this one subject, going from hack level to skilled nuclear weldor-=--the progression and analysis would be interesting to see. Or, since blowing a hole thru the plate seems to be the major problem, approach it from least penetrating - smaller electrode, downhill, tight fit, faster travel speed.
I think part of the problem with the 1/8 rod with the tight fit was it was long arcing because the rod was not deep in the V.
Open Gap and side to side motion
3/32 rod and burn it on 70ish. The same as doing the t-class 6g pipe ticket.
Just use 7016
This is a damascus weld. Metal/slag/metal/slag. Repeat
ManCub keeping it positive :D
turn your machine down to like 105ish, with 3/32 gap
I'm really surprised you've never done 7018 uphill open root before.
Best not to stitch with 7018, just go straight up and cram it in!
That’s why p5 is so good