My first 35mm was the Canonet QL-17. Having come from a Polaroid with little interest in being a photographer, I quickly saw the threading inside the lens and asked what that was. It wasn't long, I had a Cokin filter bracket and two or three filters, including the sunset filter and the one that mimicked crepuscular rays. The Coken bracket inhibited the view a bit and not seeing through the lens made guesswork of adjusting the filters. The Canonet quickly moved me from virtually no interest in photography to the subsequent 36-37 years of shooting. It also mandated I get an SLR. The rest is tons of exposed film history. I was not a photographer in any sense other than being introduced when I had the Canonet. Nonetheless, the extreme sharpness and detail it produced is what hooked me, that and playing with special effects filters. Thank you for the review. You are the only one, including printed websites that so much as mentioned filters that I've seen.
G1 was the Canonet. It was bigger and the film advance lever on the bottom, there were several variations in this gen including changes to max ass from 200 to 400 and changes in vuewfibmbder. .G2 is the QL and was known as the "New Canonet" and was never called g2 or 2nd gen. G2 and G3 are virtually identical. G3 had the battery check function and was made in Taiwan while g2 was made in Japan. Some g2 versions had a battery check button and the indicator displayed in the viewfinder. I have heard that g2 did't have a shutter cocked indicator, but all of the g2 I have seen have it. I believe there were alsob3 distinct versions of the 2nf gen but nothing significant, ie battery check or not, shutter cocked indicator. G3 also used a little extra plastic internally.
Comment on heavy shutter pressure: All auto exposure compacts of this era used shutter priority automation. They all have fairly heavy shutter release pressure, because the action of pressing down the shutter release also mechanically operated the "trapped needle" exposure selection system to set the aperture. The way that works is that the meter has a needle which moves in response to the measured light level. When you start to take the photo, the meter needle is physically locked in place and its location in turn sets how far the aperture is closed down to "auto expose". Considering that this is all mechanical with no electric actuation, it's surprising that the shutter pressure is not higher.
To clarify, when metering the exposure setting, you set the shutter speed manually. You have two choices for f-stop setting: you can set it manually on the f-stop ring, or you can move the ring to automatic (A), in which case the meter will set the f-stop shown in the viewfinder. If using a flash, there was a dedicated Canon flash [Model D] which sets the f-stop based on subject distance per the camera rangefinder setting; it is not TTL as stated. Otherwise, you can use any modern light-measuring auto-flash [non-TTL], which is more flexible. This is probably the best, small, fixed-lens rangefinder camera ever made. Meter works best with the Wien air-cell 625 sized battery, but is will use up the battery quickly [6-12 months if you cap the lens; much less if you always exposure the meter cell to light.]
Beautiful Camera. I was given my grandmothers camera that she with for years, Got a new foam job and new battery. Very easy to operate and shoots amazing photograph in black and white. I would highly encourage anyone to pick one up and start shooting.
Yes the camera will still work. All shutter speeds and apertures do work without the battery. The battery is there only for the the meter when you have the aperture ring set on 'A'
There is no TTL on this camera. Though with the correct Canon flash unit (Canolite D) will set the f/stop automatically depending on the distance the camera is focused at. Almost all auto flashes will work if they have the standard connection but you will need to either manually use guide numbers to calculate the exposure or use the flash's auto mode setting your f/stop manually.
I absolutely adore my Ql17. Sadly my shutter jammed up and I had oil on the Aperture blades. It's currently in the shop being CLA'd so I should be back shooting with it in a week.
I have a friend who has a Canonet. I have a Leica M3. I have tried both cameras. Both are equally enjoyable to shoot. You are right, Almost. Let me rephrase that...Almost, you are right.
Just watch your review on this lovely Canon. Isn't the max ISO of 800 kinda limited when there are films available at 1600. Guess limited on pushing film speed beyond 800. Just wondering and like to know your thoughts on this subject.
If using this camera in manual mode why would it be hard to zone focus? Also, it will synch at any speed because it's a leaf shutter not because it's a "cobalt shutter". It's my understanding that you can only use the meter in A mode, is that right?
It's known as the poor man Leica cause it was known to be almost as good as the Leica of that time there were many replicas by other camera companies but this was the closest very good camera.
fulgently ASA = ISO. Films are rated on ASA which predates ISO. You cannot change the ISO for a films ASA but you can push or pull your shots for a higher or lower ISO. For example, pushing Kodak Ektar 100 one stop, shoot it at 200 ISO and have the film processed pushed(higher) for one stop. Or shoot 800 ASA at 1600 ISO and have it processed at 1600. Pulled would be the opposite of pushed. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks! I have another question though. How do you know if the camera still works? I am nowhere near a camera shop and I dont know anyone who knows how to check cameras. My canonet gl17 is really old, it was my aunt's. Can you help me?
Honestly by a roll of film and shoot it as a test and use a mail order development service. Most have the option of just downloading the images without prints or even negatives but it will cost something. Cheap roll of film 24 exposure + development. Before that though just verify that the shutter opens and closes and see if the battery works. Cleaning battery corrosion is another issue with old film cameras.
My first 35mm was the Canonet QL-17. Having come from a Polaroid with little interest in being a photographer, I quickly saw the threading inside the lens and asked what that was. It wasn't long, I had a Cokin filter bracket and two or three filters, including the sunset filter and the one that mimicked crepuscular rays. The Coken bracket inhibited the view a bit and not seeing through the lens made guesswork of adjusting the filters. The Canonet quickly moved me from virtually no interest in photography to the subsequent 36-37 years of shooting. It also mandated I get an SLR. The rest is tons of exposed film history. I was not a photographer in any sense other than being introduced when I had the Canonet. Nonetheless, the extreme sharpness and detail it produced is what hooked me, that and playing with special effects filters. Thank you for the review. You are the only one, including printed websites that so much as mentioned filters that I've seen.
I don't get why people have to be hateful and give the video a thumbs down this guy does very thorough reviews pretty good I think
G1 was the Canonet. It was bigger and the film advance lever on the bottom, there were several variations in this gen including changes to max ass from 200 to 400 and changes in vuewfibmbder.
.G2 is the QL and was known as the "New Canonet" and was never called g2 or 2nd gen.
G2 and G3 are virtually identical. G3 had the battery check function and was made in Taiwan while g2 was made in Japan. Some g2 versions had a battery check button and the indicator displayed in the viewfinder. I have heard that g2 did't have a shutter cocked indicator, but all of the g2 I have seen have it. I believe there were alsob3 distinct versions of the 2nf gen but nothing significant, ie battery check or not, shutter cocked indicator.
G3 also used a little extra plastic internally.
Interestingly, many people say about the Yashica it is too big - and that if you carry that you may as well carry an slr.
Myself, I love'em all!
Comment on heavy shutter pressure: All auto exposure compacts of this era used shutter priority automation. They all have fairly heavy shutter release pressure, because the action of pressing down the shutter release also mechanically operated the "trapped needle" exposure selection system to set the aperture. The way that works is that the meter has a needle which moves in response to the measured light level. When you start to take the photo, the meter needle is physically locked in place and its location in turn sets how far the aperture is closed down to "auto expose". Considering that this is all mechanical with no electric actuation, it's surprising that the shutter pressure is not higher.
To clarify, when metering the exposure setting, you set the shutter speed manually. You have two choices for f-stop setting: you can set it manually on the f-stop ring, or you can move the ring to automatic (A), in which case the meter will set the f-stop shown in the viewfinder. If using a flash, there was a dedicated Canon flash [Model D] which sets the f-stop based on subject distance per the camera rangefinder setting; it is not TTL as stated. Otherwise, you can use any modern light-measuring auto-flash [non-TTL], which is more flexible. This is probably the best, small, fixed-lens rangefinder camera ever made. Meter works best with the Wien air-cell 625 sized battery, but is will use up the battery quickly [6-12 months if you cap the lens; much less if you always exposure the meter cell to light.]
Beautiful Camera. I was given my grandmothers camera that she with for years, Got a new foam job and new battery. Very easy to operate and shoots amazing photograph in black and white. I would highly encourage anyone to pick one up and start shooting.
Nice camera, seems like a good construction quality, would love to have one of those.
Yes the camera will still work. All shutter speeds and apertures do work without the battery. The battery is there only for the the meter when you have the aperture ring set on 'A'
There is no TTL on this camera. Though with the correct Canon flash unit (Canolite D) will set the f/stop automatically depending on the distance the camera is focused at. Almost all auto flashes will work if they have the standard connection but you will need to either manually use guide numbers to calculate the exposure or use the flash's auto mode setting your f/stop manually.
I absolutely adore my Ql17. Sadly my shutter jammed up and I had oil on the Aperture blades. It's currently in the shop being CLA'd so I should be back shooting with it in a week.
I have a friend who has a Canonet. I have a Leica M3. I have tried both cameras. Both are equally enjoyable to shoot. You are right, Almost. Let me rephrase that...Almost, you are right.
Just watch your review on this lovely Canon. Isn't the max ISO of 800 kinda limited when there are films available at 1600. Guess limited on pushing film speed beyond 800. Just wondering and like to know your thoughts on this subject.
If using this camera in manual mode why would it be hard to zone focus? Also, it will synch at any speed because it's a leaf shutter not because it's a "cobalt shutter". It's my understanding that you can only use the meter in A mode, is that right?
it only meters in A mode and the reviewer said 'copal' shutter
It's known as the poor man Leica cause it was known to be almost as good as the Leica of that time there were many replicas by other camera companies but this was the closest very good camera.
This camera works without a battery right? I found one but I dont know if it still works. Can you help me figure it out?
can you elaborate more on the ASA which not many people does that..as I am unable to change the ISO
fulgently ASA = ISO. Films are rated on ASA which predates ISO. You cannot change the ISO for a films ASA but you can push or pull your shots for a higher or lower ISO. For example, pushing Kodak Ektar 100 one stop, shoot it at 200 ISO and have the film processed pushed(higher) for one stop. Or shoot 800 ASA at 1600 ISO and have it processed at 1600. Pulled would be the opposite of pushed. Hope this makes sense.
Thanks! I have another question though. How do you know if the camera still works? I am nowhere near a camera shop and I dont know anyone who knows how to check cameras. My canonet gl17 is really old, it was my aunt's. Can you help me?
Honestly by a roll of film and shoot it as a test and use a mail order development service. Most have the option of just downloading the images without prints or even negatives but it will cost something. Cheap roll of film 24 exposure + development. Before that though just verify that the shutter opens and closes and see if the battery works. Cleaning battery corrosion is another issue with old film cameras.