Drive A Dodge Caravan? Check This Out!
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- čas přidán 15. 01. 2022
- If you drive a Dodge Caravan, Grand Caravan, Voyager and so on and you live in the rust belt, you may want to have a mechanic check your front brake hose before you have an unfortunate accident! This video show what could happen if your front brake hoses blow. -Enjoy!
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Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
We’ve got a 10 year old Caravan and live in the rust belt of Wisconsin. I’m glad I saw this, going to check our lines asap. Thanks SMA!! 🙂👍
Sounds good Gina being from Massachusetts I can tell you I know what you’re living with the rust belt if you’re going to check the fronts check the rears also at 10 years they may surprise you
Better to be safe than sorry have a good new year
Same here!!!
In Wisconsin also. My parents have one. Will be checking that out.
im in wisconsin to
How's the van gina? Was it rusting?
a lot of respect Eric that you did both front wheels , that’s how you take good care of your customers !
Good point! That what I was thinking about.
But ummmm did he check the backs?
You can be sure of that, at least he gave them a look-over. But that particular flaw should be isolated to the front brakes.
Pfft….They had at least a good couple of weeks on the other hose. Eric was just doing the old up-sell.
"stuff"originally installed in pairs wears out in pairs.....
Eric O, thank you for this video, I had my niece take her Dodge van in to check the front brake lines and sure enough they were bad, real bad!! You definitely saved her from having a bad day! Keep up the great vids!
"It's getting a new one even if I am wrong, for obvious reasons. One of the reasons being the other side blew apart, and the other reason is I'm going at it with a razor blade!" You sir, have once again, earned a thumbs up.
Chrysler engineer: "We have 5 million extra rubber sleeves...we need to find something to put them on".
It appears that this minivan has exceeded the 150,000 mile design life. Looks like the engineers got it down to a science.
I have the exact same van in white as a Ram C/V with 270,000 miles...in Ohio and it looks way better than that one.
@My Pronoun is WTF of course it does
Brakes totally giving out at any age without signs of failure like this Dodge is good lawsuit material…
I didn't know this was an issue, I have a 2010 T & C so I'll be checking mine asap. Thank you for this one. Man, that should be a Recall or at least a Service Bulletin from Chrysler/Dodge to at least inspect these brake lines. Again, Thank You.
I've never seen anyone bleed brakes with their finger like that. Idk why I never thought of it. Learning little things like that is why I love this channel so much. That and the winning personalities. Best stuff on CZcams.
After years of doing that I got a one man suction bleeder. Just slide on the bleeder and it sucks it down.
Also have a pressure bleeder for aircraft since they have to bleed up.
good time to wear gloves?
@@robertgary3561
Yeah, I got one too, but more often than not it's more trouble than it's worth. Time I get it out and get it set up, I could have it done. Guarantee you he has one too.
I've done it 3 different times using a vacuum pump, and works better from close to far, instead of far to close bleeding.
@@DistinctOgre it depends on how accessible you have a mrs O around to grab and who doesn’t squawk there whole time complaining.
"The salt that saves us is ultimately the salt that kills us" That's deep man!
Any night where a SMA video is uploaded and the Cowboys lose, is a perfect night
Nice tip about having Mrs O only push the pedal 3/4 way down to prevent trashing the 8 year old master cylinder. I usually put a 2x4 block under the pedal before Mrs V 👩🏻 pumps the pedal. 👍🏼
I love the torque click sounds you make classic! Makes me laugh every time and when you call part numbers out by starting with it’s the classic 😂
Years ago we had a 5-year old foster boy in our care. We all got in the car, .Tommy went into the backseat, I said Tommy is your seatbelt on? He says “click”.
Always remember, when bleeding brakes, the hard of hearing guy goes under the car!
Huh, what ?
That was me. So I replaced the pedal guy with a brake bleeding machine 🤣🤣🤣
I don't have any "other", significant, deaf or otherwise, to help me bleed my brakes. However, I did, at one time, find a CZcams video on doing it by myself. Get an empty drink bottle, I prefer Gatorade as they have a more stable bottom, and a length of clear tubing that tightly fits the end of the bleeder. Drill a hole in the cap of the Gatorade bottle that is a snug fit to the outer dimension of the hose so the hose doesn't fall out or move in or out easily and then also drill a small vent hole in the cap. Keep the hose to a length that isn't very long but is long enough to easily go between the bleeder and close to the bottom of the bottle, where ever it its that you set the bottle. Take the bleeder out and put some grease on it's threads and put it back in. The grease seals up the threads to prevent air from sucking in around them. Fill the bottle about a quarter to a third full then put the cap on with the hose submerged in the fluid and close to but not touching the bottom. Then connect the other end of the hose to the bleeder. Now go pump the brakes yourself. The brake system will mostly fill itself up from the brake fluid reservoir and at the bottle end the air bubbles go down the tube and escape out the fluid at the bottom of the bottle. Any fluid sucked back up into the system from the bottom of the bottle is air free. Pump the breaks until you see clear fresh bubble free fluid in the hose and then tighten the bleeder. No spills, not much mess.
REMEMBER TO KEEP FREQUENTLY REFILLING THE RESERVOIR
That is how I bleed the brakes and flush the break system and I can do it by myself.
OH!! You might want to start the flushing process by sucking all the current brake fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir and putting in fresh fluid from a newly opened container. I use a larger Gatorade bottle for this and this time I put two hoses into the cap of the bottle. One hose goes to a vacuum via a modified keyboard cleaning attachment of the vacuum. (I never used it to clean keyboards anyway.) In the bottle the hose that goes to the vacuum is much higher than the hose I stick into the fluid reservoir, I don't want to suck any of that fluid into the actual vacuum. The lower hose deposits the fluid I suck out of the reservoir nicely into the bottom of the bottle, nothing into the vacuum.
Or, you can use a small turkey baster to suck out the old fluid. Whatever works.
@@InquisitiveSearcher I do some thing similar with two people. I try to prevent dirty fluid and air by closing the bleeder between strokes. Medical oxygen line is a perfect fit. The end that attaches to equipment is the right size. As for the reservoir I use a bulb to remove the old fluid. Add some fresh and remove it to pick up any residue. I just got a 3D printer and I'm thinking about making a system that would combine a reservoir brake fluid a air compressor line, low pressure, and a new cap to take fresh fluid from the pressurized bottle. You run the fluid at pressure into the reservoir and then put your clear line on the bleeder valve. Open the valve and you can flush the entire system without ever having to manually add fluid. Essentially you use the pressurized reservoir to force clean fluid into the system and out each bleeder valve. I can picture it in my mind exactly how to do it and if the car is completely on stands you can probably flush the entire system in about 5 to 10 minutes. You just need to take the pressure off when you're done before you try to remove the cap I'm thinking a small vacuum pump added to the pressure valve can draw off any excess fluid from the reservoir. I'm just not sure what kind of filament to use that might be resistant to brake fluid.
@@JohnRodriguesPhotographer : interesting idea, but I was trying to use the simplest thing I could from materials at hand. I use a nearly clear yellow fuel line for small engines that fit really snug on the bleeder. And again, because I didn't have to keep tightening and loosening the bleeder between brake peddle strokes I could do it all by myself.
Hey Eric remember that brake hose on my 1989 Mazda Van that you noticed the outer sheath was dry rotting like 5 years ago? Well it's still going strong 💪👌😂
Carry a hose clamp with ya :) Or at least vice grips to pinch the line off haha
LOL!
Plumbers: Not a leaky tap in the house.
Chippies: Either a very flash deck, or it's in the process of being built.
Painters: Shiny walls.
Mechanics: rust holes, minor oil leaks, odd noises, front end like my x girlfriend.
Bit loose in the front, tends to wander.
@@SouthMainAuto Lol What a guy!!
@@SouthMainAuto Ivan will just fix it on the side of route 80, the Russian way
@@FixIt1975 No Parts Required!
One thing you may want to do with that type of hose with the top hose covering is to run a thin bead of RTV between the top of the rubber attachment and the metal end all the way around. That can prevent the salt from traveling down the inside and corroding the metal end.
No joke, I spent 6 hours yesterday replacing all the brake lines on my 04 Tahoe. Total pain in the butt.
Gotta say that the copper alloy brake line is a dream to work and flare.
I just ran new fuel lines on my truck using NiCopp...I had a complete front-to-back fuel system in 10 minutes. It doesn't look as pretty as the stock stuff because I bent it all by hand, but I had it on/off the lift quicker than doing an oil change.
Awesome stuff.
I can't understand why anyone would willingly replace brake lines with steel when NiCop is available.
@@JohnnyTalia if you are in a state that might fail you a sticker for using nicopp then you will understand
@@danlevesque5437 Yeah, that would be a deal breaker. I'm lucky to not live in a sticker state.
@@JohnnyTalia NiCop has it's cons, but I solved the biggest one shrouding mine in stainless steel spring guards along the entire length of the runs.
Don't forget to always check the brake pedal pressure before dropping it in gear. A young mechanic at a friend's shop backed right into the parts delivery van a couple of weeks ago.
Knew someone 40 years ago who had their Mini (not MINI) stuffed into the side of another car by a mechanic when in for total brake failure.
Young mechanic did a brake job and tie rods on the four post alignment rack. When done opened up the drivers door and used his foot to push off the bearing plates to avoid damaging them by putting the car in gear while on them. He had forgot to pump the brakes up and could not stop the car from rolling, door caught on the rack post and folded all the way forward.
@@ulbuilder RUH-ROH!
Ive rolled out of my garage and panicked when I hit the brakes. Quick pull on the parking parked stopped me though.
I Like The Japanese System Setup .
On Start Up ...
You Have To Depress The Foot Brake Before You Can Change The Vehicle Shift Lever Into Drive , Reverse From Park .
No Run Aways
No Jump Aways ...
No Key Left In Ignition ,
Brake Release , Run Aways ..
Etc .
Funny I bought a 2005 grand caravan out 450,000 miles 2 water pumps 2 radiators 3 sets of plugs , 1 alternator, and 2 fan belts, ton of oil changes at 3,500 with mobile oil. She was a trooper then it happened the chain let go and I shipped to the recycling center(used car lot) mines was a fine automobile best car I ever owned and till the day she snapped the chain the original factory a/c was kicking strong
We have an '05 Town & Country LXi just about to hit 226k. (3.3L) In six years that we've owned it (bought from original owner, in her 70s, always dealer-maintained except for me changing her gauge cluster bulbs - her late husband was not spending $600 on that, and told her to "deal with it."). She and I made a special deal that I would replace those bulbs while she and her husband were out of town - it cost me under $20 for a box of bulbs and sockets, and less than ten minutes' time. During our ownership, we've replaced one alternator, one starter, one blower motor, one EGR valve, two front struts. Two deer hits resulted in two new radiators/headlamp assemblies, and a few weeks into ownership we were rear-ended by a Focus at 50 mph.
She still cruises nice and smoothly, tracks straight, keeps perfect wheel alignment across the lifespan of tires, and it's the long-wheelbase version (Dakota frame, Stow 'n' Go seats). Seats have always had covers on them, floors always had WeatherTech floor mats, so the interior looks showroom-fresh (aside from the drooping headliner and a broken defroster grille). At the time she sold it, there was a P0300 "Random Misfire" code. All she wanted was the price of the two brand new rear tires she just got - so we bought it at 155k for a whopping $250! This van spent most of its life running on BJ's Wholesale Club gas, after we got it we've been running Shell and the misfire code has not returned since. She may be "rusty and crusty," but she's comfortable and pretty darn impressive in the snow.
We love this van so much in the family that my mother just bought another one a few weeks ago, '07 Grand Caravan SXT with the 3.8L. Also original owner, no accidents, long-wheelbase, 226k on it presently, mostly CT to FL miles (not a typo, the '05 is almost at the '07's mileage). Also runs like a top, shifts smoothly, interior almost mint, got the premium stereo (6-disc in-dash changer/DVD player with the video screen) and the only thing that doesn't work on this van is the cassette deck. Haven't gotten it registered yet, but I did drive it home after purchase and rides even nicer than the Town & Country. Was it worth the $3,300 she paid? Time will tell. But the power sliders work smoothly, the power liftgate is flawless, and it was always garaged so there's minimal "Chrysler Cancer."
@@dashcamandy2242 mines had the 3.8 V6 235hp , I suspect my teenage son dropped the hammer on it causing the chain to let go. Those things are just flat out tanks take a beating(kids) And keep going between a 2000/2010caravan or scion those two cars will make 300k easily every time
Just 254k on my 96 with 3.3L!
Eric is so calm and rational when working on hundreds of cars. If you ever recorded me working on cars, you would need to bleep every other word.
So I used to ask my wife to help bleed, and I finally caved in and purchased a hand held vacuum pump, took a pint jar and soldered in a couple pieces of copper tubing so I had room for fluid and changed my habits. First my wife loved the fact she didn't need to get into the car/truck....
Than I learned to take a brake fluid container and turn it upside down on the master cylinder.
Cleaner, faster, and I now pump until the fluid runs clear.... it seems so much better.
I see all the time those that compress the piston and push that nasty fluid into the master... again something I won't do.
I love your logic and basic approach to vehicle repair. Please keep it up
more fun with a loaded pickup truck and a brake line blows! I can tell you from personal experience. Welcome to the rustbelt!
You have to give it the classic "pump and pray" a move most rust belt drivers are familiar with haha
I'll take your word for it. Had enough of that when my neon lost rear hydraulics. Glad it was a standard and the road was near empty!
I wouldn't jump out of a moving vehicle but every time I hear someone talk about the brakes going out while they're driving the first thing that comes to mind is "all hands abandon ship"
Try it on a c-60 Chevy with 500 bushels of corn on a down hill with a sharp turn at the bottom.
Surprised you did not hit the lines with some Fluid Film to help protect it a little! Good video as usual! Thanks!
I was really shocked by not seeing you wire brush at the caliper fitting to get that dirt and salt off first with your brake clean before you loosened banjo bolt for the line to replace. Now I have to look at my brake lines.
That was an informative video that needs to be checked on very diligently now and then !!! Don't want any brake blowouts on snowy roads, let alone dry roads !!!! The life you save might be your own !!!!!! Mrs. O. sure is a good pumper helper !!!! Great quality job there, Eric !!!! Looking forward to the next one. Whatever was in them two pots that Mrs. O. was cooking up sure looked good. And I have never seen a more content cat then yours resting so nicely. He or she may rest by day, but at night he or she is a feared menace to mice and rats in Avoca !!!!!!!!!!
Appreciate the digital check valve tip. I had a set of aftermarket bleeders for that purpose, until I left them on a vehicle 🙄
Yep. Wrapping a little teflon tape around those bleeder threads will help stop air from being drawn back thru those threads.
I was just about to pass out and boom. Eric O baby.... Staying up a while instead.
I was so glad to get out of this business , ironically now I find myself enjoying watching videos like this ....anyone else ? I guess ya can't take the Mechanic out of the Mechanic . Great Content Eric
Like myself also, it's satisfying to watch a professional at his trade, i work on small engines because like in NY, IL is in the salt bucket, and I usually get to feel like I'm working in the south as I don't have to deal with road salt rust 🤪
I'm in California where rust is not normally a problem, but I'm going to check the hoses on my 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan just in case.
Thanks for the videos Eric!
Good old 'engendineers'...can't live with them...can't live without them. Good video Mr. O.
I'm not a mechanic but enjoy every one of these vids. I learn, I laugh, and really appreciate the sharing of all of the zero-bs experiences and tips of the craft and of course bffs Mr & Mrs O.
Previous generation Grand Caravan had rubber lines that would disintegrate from the inside out, swelling internally to the point that the caliper wouldn't depressurize when you released the brake pedal.
Wrecked a set of brake pads in 10,000 miles and trashed the fuel mileage...
I have been working on cars since I got one almost 50 years ago, and have been a certified mechanic for 43 years, thank you for showing me a better way to bleed brakes, where were you in 1973, I could have used that lesson
When you're the first thumbs up for a SMA video, you know you're not doing squat at work.
I was assisting at home with my foot when you were doing the up/down thing. Hope it helped. Happy New Year!!
LOL! Guaranteed, most ALL of US were doing it TOO!
@@BYENZER I'm so sorry! My foot slipped off the pedal.
Now that was funny! :)
I'll bet you're one of those 'passenger side brakers' too, lol. Drives me crazy when I'm driving "Hey, we don't need brakes yet!" ;)
Another saved from the clutches of faulty design. Well done!!
I love the fact that Mrs O . Comes out to pump brakes. My wife has had to do that soooo many times. At least now I can show her yep that's how the pros do it.
I have a 2003 Yukon and had to replace all the brake lines. One day hit the brakes and it went to the floor. Replaced them all with the Ni-Cop. Great video keep them coming.
Mum and dad bought one of the first Plymouth Voyagers in the central PA area in the 80's 84' I think because I was still in school.. For almost a year, we would speak to random strangers in parking lots all over. Sometimes dad would take the middle seat out to impress the guys while demoing the vehicle to the curious people.
I looked at the caravan in 84 but wisely choose the crown Victoria wagon which still lives.
@@stevemurray710 Problem being is if you drive a crown vic, everybody knows you're a knob. Drive an old minivan and the assumption is you are an astute consumer.
@@shith00k don't know what a knob is but my country squire has required few repairs in it's 37 years and body on frame v8 wagons are starting to become collectable.
We got our 10/84 Caravan second hand with about 70,000 Km on it. 2.2 Li 5 on the floor. Head gasket leak about 300.000 Km. No complaints. Even towed 2000 lb of tent trailer quite a lot.
@@stevemurray710Let me try to clarify what we mean by knob, at least on this side of the pond. For us older folk, knob is an abbreviation of noble meaning you would look classy. However, younger people may use knob to mean dick, so that would imply that you'd look a bit of, well you get the idea. As we do not not know the age of your correspondent and you're talking a classy make of vehicle, let's go with the former.
I enjoy your videos, but today I particularly enjoyed seeing your cat. Our last one passed away a week ago and yours seems like a real sweetheart.
Love the Upstate New York accent. Heard it every day for 24 years. Thanks for Caravan warning.. will pass on to owners. Particular years ?
thanks for all the great vids over the years. cheers
Love the torque wrench... I'm certain its the German wrench called Goodntite ... Snap-on is a close second. Great video Eric...👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Love your videos👍 Mrs O makes them even better👍
HA! My gramps always says “I’ll be jiggered” too! You’re a classic Eric O.!
As always Eric, another great instructional video, with lots of humor!
Love your videos learn a lot
Always good to see Mrs. O.
Mr O .. I have to tell you I'm quite envious of your talent. I watch as much as I can get when It comes to diagnostic repairs. But that's my dream is to have a shop that I can work outta the house/ shop with a very supportive & encouraging & helpful woman (which I do have) being able to walk in the kitchen to a hot meal & greet my little fur babies. You sir.. are living the dream.
Great! My next project is front calipers. Might as well do this now. Thanks Mr. O!
Brake lines like to rust along the side rails going to the rear brakes too.
Yup, happened to me a couple of months back.
No rust on the car or the visible hard lines (and I mean NO rust, not even surface)... And then lost brake fluid.
The lines along the rails which you can't see because of the plastic cover were completely rusted through.
gas lines on my GMC pickup did the same, rusted along the frame and started leaking
A Newbie wanting to be a Tech could watch Eric's videos and learn as much as going to Tech School .... and save money ....and enjoy the content
Eric, love the channel. Sharing your family and interactions make it special.
Very good information in all of my 18 years I have never seen that.
I find if the bleeder has a rubber cap they usually open. I let one side gravity bleed while I change the other hose.
Great to put on a fortune cookie as you say:
"The salt that saves us is the salt that kills us"
I live in NYS and undercoat the car every year. So far it is paying off. Car is 7 years old now. It is a 2015 WRX.
Excellent advice and showing a life saving tech!
New fan and subscriber here. Awesome videos. Going to binge watch for a bit.
Enjoy your going to learn a lot
Damn! I have a 2014 Grand Caravan and just did 4 new rotors, pads, and 2 new rear calipers because they were so rusty. It only has 40,000 miles but being in NJ, this state LOVES salt. I never thought of looking at the brake lines like you showed. I also changed the rear shocks because you know, rust holes thru the outer shell. Guess I'll be changing some front brake lines when I replace the front struts.
Thanks Mr. and Mrs. O !
I watch DIY repair videos all the time on here. You made it the most enjoyable. Hence the subscription and the thumbs up. Thank you for the great content!
My '05 Subaru Legacy had that happen as I was driving behind a concrete truck, pedal to the floor, fluid on the street.
Luckily it was a construction zone and we were only going about 25 mph.
The car never lost 100% of its brakes however and I was able to drive it carefully the ten or so miles to the dealer using the remaining brakes and the hand brake.
Even though the car was an '05 (this was in '20) Subaru was willing to pony up over half of the repair cost.
Whats weird is this was the fourth time that this has happened to me with different cars.
Once just as the car came to a stop one foot from my garage door, once as I was driving 5 mph in a parking lot, and once as I was approaching a stop sign on a 25 mph zone with not another car in sight.
It's why I never buy lottery tickets, I done used up all my good luck.
Wouldn’t want your guardian angle to think your getting greedy with the lotto tickets.
I was wondering about that: with the dual braking system there should still be _some_ braking. That is the point of it. But then I remembered it was Mopar....
Great video Eric. Great torque wrench sound effects :D Cheers.
Eric failed to consult the shop manual to find out the correct number of Potzrebie-Fahrshimmilts to tighten the fastener to.
Once again your professionalism shines .thanks Eric and mrs.O for the great videos. They are very educational.
Eric, another great video and it was nice to see Mrs. O helping out. 🔧
We’re in the rust belt too. I’ve had these hoses bite me more than once.
‘96 Neon was the same.
Similar to my '14 kia forte. Brake lines are hidden by a plastic shield under driver's side of the car. NY car, lines blew while the wife was driving, about 1' from the end of the plastic cover. All the visable lines are in great shape. Anything on the underside that is covered by plastic in salt states is a time bomb.
Thanks for the safety tip.
thanks for educating us on these new model caravans eric
I like the pro tip of using your finger over the bleeder screw to get the flow started without having to loosen and tighten over and over. Great time saver. Of course, once it flows you have to tighten and loosen to keep air from getting sucked back in past the threads. Thanks again “O” family.
I install speed bleaders on all my cars. Saves the trouble of tightening and loosening
Brake fluid is carcinogenic, it should be never in contact with your skin. Not a problem if you do it once in few years, but I would avoid doing it often.
@@petrnemecek4379 Everything is carcinogenic. I mean, look at all the labels in California...even their tomatoes cause cancer.
I, perhaps like you, don't have any "other", significant or otherwise, to help me bleed my brakes. However, I did, at one time, find a CZcams video on doing it by myself. Get an empty drink bottle, I prefer Gatorade as they have a more stable bottom, and a length of clear tubing that tightly fits the end of the bleeder. Drill a hole in the cap of the Gatorade bottle that is a snug fit to the outer dimension of the hose so the hose doesn't fall out or move in or out easily and then also drill a small vent hole in the cap. Keep the hose to a length that isn't very long but is long enough to easily go between the bleeder and close to the bottom of the bottle, where ever it its that you set the bottle. Take the bleeder out and put some grease on it's threads and put it back in. The grease seals up the threads to prevent air from sucking in around them. Fill the bottle about a quarter to a third full then put the cap on with the hose submerged in the fluid and close to but not touching the bottom. Then connect the other end of the hose to the bleeder. Now go pump the brakes yourself. The brake system will mostly fill itself up from the brake fluid reservoir and at the bottle end the air bubbles go down the tube and escape out the fluid at the bottom of the bottle. Any fluid sucked back up into the system from the bottom of the bottle is air free. Pump the breaks until you see clear fresh bubble free fluid in the hose and then tighten the bleeder. No spills, not much mess.
REMEMBER TO KEEP FREQUENTLY REFILLING THE RESERVOIR
That is how I bleed the brakes and flush the break system and I can do it by myself.
OH!! You might want to start the flushing process by sucking all the current brake fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir and putting in fresh fluid from a newly opened container. I use a larger Gatorade bottle for this and this time I put two hoses into the cap of the bottle. One hose goes to a vacuum via a modified keyboard cleaning attachment of the vacuum. (I never used it to clean keyboards anyway.) In the bottle the hose that goes to the vacuum is much higher than the hose I stick into the fluid reservoir, I don't want to suck any of that fluid into the actual vacuum. The lower hose deposits the fluid I suck out of the reservoir nicely into the bottom of the bottle, nothing into the vacuum.
Or, you can use a small turkey baster to suck out the old fluid. Whatever works.
those two connection points were my issue on my Wrangler eating calipers - a must change every other disc change because they rust internally making a one way never releasing pressure line
Thank you for the information. Very possibly saved some lives. I enjoy your videos
Thank you so much for this video! I drive a Caravan just like this. Definitely getting this looked at next maintenance cycle! 👍
I always remove and clean the bleeder and put silicone grease/dielectric grease on the threads. That prevents air around the threads. I use a vacuum bleeder so it's kind of a necessity.
Just replaced both CV's on my mom's Honda Accord. Rusted in half under the dampener. The replacements omit the dampener.
Mrs. O is so nice. It’s great that you both have a good relationship or it appears that you do. If you don’t you both are good actors.
I started doing pushups!! great vid!!
Mrs O could take a "break" if you had a Motive pressure bleeder...
So many years ago I was at a shop and a tech was driving a customer car into the shop, I thought to fast, shop was 12 bays all openings on same side, the guy hit the 4 post lift, totaled the car, wrecked the lift and he said it had no brakes, Well the service writer put on a full sheet of paper on the left door window, the windshield, and stuck one on Steering wheel Stating NO BRAKES! guess the guy couldn't read, but you took it as you should, i was repairing a Tire balancer, and laughed my self silly we everybody went to the crash site and read the signs.
Can’t fix stupid
That's why they are called TECHS. Get paid for being a TECH.
I bet the parking brake worked, though.
Happy Monday Dr O!
We use sand down in my area. Works fairly well for traction but it doesn't do anything to get rid of the ice afterwards.. But considering we're technically a desert we get warm enough to melt the ice within a few days most of the time.
Thanks, a friend has one of these vans about the same vintage. We also live in the rust belt. Will be checking his hoses. I've picked up many good tips from your channel. Please keep them coming!
What year is the van?
@@mattbartolovich8228 2015
@@joncooper9966 thank you
You’re so right about corrosion and the damage it can do to car parts. I’m from the Midwest and I’d still be driving my Toyota 4x4 pickup, if not for road salt. My 22RE engine never quit on me but thanks to corrosion my chassis did.
Does taking regular trips to a car wash with an underbody spray or hosing it down at home help with that?
One of the best duos of CZcams, mr and mrs O!
Very helpful video also enjoyed your side talking your a good man sir..
I recently had to replace all the brake lines on my older Silverado due to rust. Common issue on those trucks...
Down here in the south, they used a concoction called "brine" to treat icy roads. The usage of those things is gradually moving southward, mostly because of our society's increasing overreaction to bad weather. When i was in elementary school in 1980, we could sit and watch tornados go by the school. Now, they dismiss class if there's even a thunderstorm watch.
And then there is all these freeway crashes in snowy weather that never existed 50 years ago. Lack of driver training and mostly due to all these safety systems that conflict with each other and keep cars from being properly driven in inclement weather.
@@jayjaynella4539 I agree ,What ever happened to SNOW tires?? All weather ties,My big 'ol butt !!!
I work at a tire warehouse in Missouri and 2 weeks ago we got our first snow storm and everyone was flat panic buying tires. But sadly they was buying just highway treads. No snow tires. It was just sad. Sorry but in 5-8 inches of snow them highway treads aren't getting your Hyundai or Ford focus around in the snow. If anything itll get you farther in the ditch
In the north they brine the roads as a pre treat then blast them with salt when the snow starts.
@@halbud The new Michelin CrossClimate2's are all-weather tires that have the 3PMSF, so they can handle light to moderate snow conditions, though dedicated snow tires would be better obviously. Most all-seasons or weathers probably don't perform as well as the Michelins though!
I love this guy,!! Your awesome dude, I just sit and watch you fix people's cars and listen to you talk and for reason it's actually pretty awesome man
Love your Team work
My ‘04 Ram 1500 has brake line corrosion right where the protective coils stop on the hard lines up front. Had to replace two of them. And now that you ask about heart health - I just had a stent put into one of my coronary arteries. Gotta watch that cholesterol!
I have a 2012 version of that van and the brake hoses collapsed on the inside. Pulled the hose loose at that same joint and nothing came out. Caused the calipers to drag and get really hot.
Speaking of salt damage, those vice grips look like they were a victim of salt!! Lol. Great video. Thanks for sharing!!
Another great information packed video. Thank you Mr.O
It's time for us to do what we've been doing, and that time is every day.
Kamala, that you?
In 2010 I found the same exact issue on the 2002 Dodge Ram 1/2 ton we have. Not even touching the brake system I bumped the hose with my hand and it snapped off.
It was noticed in the relative safety of the driveway and not on the highway or elsewhere thankfully. At the time I removed the rubber outer sleeve from the replacement hoses and let it ride. Fast forward another 9 years and last year I replaced both front hoses again as the caliper end was getting more crusty than I cared for. The inboard end appeared to be ok physically even with the rust accelerator sleeve carefully sliced off. Second set of replacement hoses got treated to the same 'fix' before getting installed.
I know what I am gonna check this weekend...thanks Eric O.
love watching all your video's . like how you talk to people not at them .
10:26 haha love that you torqued the brake line with that flare wrench you have to put it in the description so we can buy it Eric O.
It took me multiple videos to realize he was making the torque wrench noise 😂
Not the first or last time corrosion prevention actually causes more corrosion in car design
It keeps the salt mostly out in the winter and mostly in the rest of the year.
Morning Mr & Mrs O. Thanks for the Video, always humorous 😃
Regards Richard 🇬🇧
This is my regular comment/question/concern post. Thanks for your content Mr. + Mrs. O