Simone Moro Interviewed by Barry Blanchard
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- čas přidán 14. 04. 2016
- Italian climber Simone Moro is a highly skilled alpinist whose passion has taken him to some of the most remote corners of the globe. Among many other achievements, Moro has summited Shishapangma, Lhotse, and Everest, opened a new route on Nanga Parbat, and speed-ascended Broad Peak in 29 hours. His expeditions, he says, “combine the concepts of altitude, difficulty, solitude, uncertainty, adventure, and the unknown into a unique mountaineering project.” Join Simone Moro and Barry Blanchard having a conversation about climbing.
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For him to survive an 800m fall and after ripping his hands down to its tendons during the winter ascent of Annapurna is an amazing feat. I can't imagine what he has to endure after losing Anatolli Boukreev. I'm glad Simone has dedicated himself to becoming a high altitude helicopter pilot to help save others. A great man in the world of mountaineering.
SO TOUCHING THE FRIENDSHIP HE HAD WITH BOUKREEV.
HE TALKED ABOUT HIM EVEN MORE THAN ABOUT HIMSELF AND EVEN HAD BOUKREEV IN HIS MIND WHEN RESCUING THE AMERICAN GUY.
Great great climber but even better person!!!
he is idiot for me. He almst kill sherpa because he want to be famous
As a person he is not so great
Brave fella. Good on him for helping the boy that fell.
Simone Moro - extraordinary and lovely guy.
But in negative..
@@francoborroni1306 beccato anche qua, lol
faccio un esperimento e guardo il prossimo video di moro per vedere se hai commentato
@@gregcorso1986 ci puoi scommettere ragazzo!
Moro is the greatest alpinist alive ... and said just the truth about Krakauer
This guy almost kill sherpa. He is stupied.
@@fanbulma8879 i agree, he is a clown..
@@fanbulma8879 he did not. There was no danger at all for any Sherpa. They just thought they could decide no one moving ahead of them. Moro & Steck always kept distance. It was sherpas who instigated that and threw rocks at Steck. With roles reversed you would still blame Moro
@@listrahtes yes, yes... two version, yours and sherpa version. Where is true?
In my opinion sherpa werent so agressive for no reason. Yours?
@@fanbulma8879 Its not my version. Its the version of Ueli Steck and everyone else, in parts even sherpa. . It begins in camp 2 were Sherpa and Mountain Guides decides now one goes up on fixed ropes as they prepare the route. When Steck, Griffith and Moro climb up WITHOUT use of fixed ropes they still try to stop them. this is how Steck ALWAYS approached a mountain in many years. They did not use the fixed ropes because they never used them no matter which year. Stecks whole style of alpinism was far from that.
Sherpas tried to stop them agressively they argued and in the end the 3 promised to keep away from the fixed ropes and route which they did. Thats it. There was an injury of a Sherpa but only a lot later they changed that from a slip to "icefall from the climbers and never was anyone injured brought back to base camp".
Reality is pretty simple. Sherpas risk their lives and are on edge preparing the route. Also they are not the native saints people make them out to be. They missjudge the advancing party as some low level guys and want to force them to stop and get agressive (both sides tell this) Moro then gets loud and says something hurtful. Its a back and forth.. In the end the 3 continue to climb and promise to not use their stuff which they did not.. Sherpas are frustrated aThat leads to them venting in base camp and throwing rocks. Thats it. Sherpa are not some peace searching natives like in your fantasy. They are just like us. In general humble but they also drink and get agressive especially if you dont pay them money which the 3 did not so they were fair game.
Love hearing these stories either old or new. Respect,peace & love from Boston,Ma u.s.a.
You are amazing Simone moro. RESPECT
Not so much..
Brotherly love can be seen in Simone Moro. Long Live true brotherhood 🙏
simone has to be one of the easiest interviews ever - ask him one or two questions and he'll tell you everything
Simone rocks!
But it turned out that you are Rambo))) Just impressive Simone, rescuing a human life in such conditions with the same time putting yourself in danger is heroism! Like this guy very much
I still can't realize how Simone with human body on shoulders climbed up 300 meters on 8000 altitude.
Simone is great ... perhaps because he is always on helium! ;)
Simone is such a great human being, kind and compassionate
Great point at 19:00, simply put devastating truth.
Anatolij teach a lesson to Simone how to be a human and face the danger, everething is possible when risk is calculated. One man did something differently and save live of different human when others already put the man in the timber box. Brave man Simone
Simone is more like Superman than Rambo. Amazing person.
He is like more a Clown...
He is a real Rambo never exists
does anyone know if any of his books especially the ones about Annapurna tragedy 1997 are available in english? I could only find online copies in italian. Thank You
When Moro talks about only Mountain Madness clients surviving, it should be rememebed that the only reason Anatoli was able to come up from camp four and rescue them was because Beidleman and Groom sheperded them, along with a number of others, all the way down the mountain to within a few hundred meters of the camp where several of them collapsed. Beidlman had done double duty that day by running ropes the sherpas were supposed to take care of and he had spent a tremendous amount of time on high long after his O2 had run out. He and Groom took the strongest of the group and made it to camp and told Anatolie where they were, but he hiumself was played out. Anatoli prioritized the Mountain Madness clients to save. I don't know if that was a conscious decision or due to the fact Beck and Namba were simply too far gone.
Boukreev during Indonesian expedition found Namba's body and burried her body by stones and took some her personal things and later gave it to her Husband. I think Boukreev felt guilty that he didn't back and rescue her.
The 15 minute walk in good conditions where the team was huddled took Anatoli 40 minutes in that weather. 40x3 trips in windchill of -100degrees, he was just spent. He couldn’t climb to rescue Scott until later in the day because he needed to rest. Not sure he could have rescued Namba because she was only 95lb and was feeling the altitude effects from way up during the descent. Just sad this whole episode had to happen
This dude seems like nice humble and skilled man, i see people hating him and wishing the worst on him just because of the swearing instant with Sherpas. First of all you guys dont know the full context and even he had been it fault it doesnt make him a horrible person, I am sure many of you are worse and would cause much worse problems. The nicest people have swore at people so its not a big deal, the part where he really fucked up and could be called dumb it when he got in a argument on a mountain with native peoples.Very dumb and dangerous.
Simone Moro is very skilled guy. He has been teached by Boukreev.
what a great person and climber
More climber than person...
I always thought Kramer was jealous of Anatoli's talent and superman like strength. Anatolia was the only person who went out and saved multiple people that night. Kramer didn't save anyone and became a millionaire.
I grew up absolutely loving mountains, read about all the great climbers and their adventures.
Then I took a Yamnuska 10 day mountain course back in the Eighties with Blanchard as an instructor.
The guy was a rude, arrogant A-hole, totally unsuitable for teaching.
I was young, only 19 and a mountain legend should have been inspirational, but my love of the mountains was extinguished.
I actually have a photo of part of our group on a summit in the Wapta glacier area where he's looking away slightly and giving me the finger.
Another day he laughed AT me during a crevasse rescue situation.
POS...
He looks like an arsehole. Sorry you had to deal with that and hopefully you found your love for climbing again.
Damn sorry to hear that. Seems like a nice guy in all the other vids ive seen of him.
"my love was extinguished"
not a very strong love if its entirely dependent on other people
Simone is a real friend to Anatoli, it is so heartwarming. There is so much arrogance in the American perspective, and Simone is quite right. One person risks his life and the other makes money. Just a huge divide in values, no wonder Krakauer did not get it right.
Did you read the book? Krakauer had a lot of praise for Anatoli and continued to praise him in subsequent appearances. Reinhold Messner said Krakauer got it right on the money.
Respect for Simone Moro. Don't care for selfish individuals like Jon Krakauer. That B* criticizes commercial mountaineering while making millions of dollars selling books with fictional information and twisted facts about great climbers like Anatoli Boukreev.
agree
Thank you Simone!!! , Im surprise you could keep your cool talking about that dishonest caward ! Krakauer
GOAT
min 26:23 ",we were tired, we are not Rambo" hilarious
Eheheh, yes, this is hilarous. But the funny thing is that in Italy it's quite normal to say "I am not Rambo" when you want to communicate to someone else that you can't do just everything because you're human! :-D
It's wrong he is stupid quite rambo..
Simone thank you don't let some dirty journalists to tar Boukarev's reputation.
He is so funny .... He talked n looked like Indian ☺️
More Like a clown 🤡
He repeated his friend Anatoliy Boukreev's act of bravery
Talks a lot yes ,but we'll worth listening to 😉
Okay to be fair, Anatoli couldn’t save any of the Rob Hall clients. Beck saved himself and Namba died. So that criticism from Simone doesn’t really hold
JK is a joke. Good imagination though …
If Anatoli had oxygen and stayed with his climbers it's likely more would have survived. That is all Krakauer ever said. The tragedy happened because Hall and Fischer ignored their turn around times, NOT because Krakauer couldn't get up enough energy or courage to help with the rescue. In fact, not one of those at camp 4 post-summit could help, but y'all want to blame Krakauer, as if he was responsible for helping people. No, he was a client there to write a magazine article. That he then turned it into a successful book has no bearing on anything, you jealous defenders of the guy who had to redeem himself rather than be in the right place at the right time as a guide and the greatest climber of his time. Toli was NOT a team player. He redeemed himself at the end. Krakauer says as much.
BS, nobody of burkeev's clients died, he helped the other group, krakauer Is not responsable for deaths, but for someone who did nothing and watched others risking their lives to save others he gave too many moral judgments and got rich in the process.
Without a doubt the smart guy among them, but honestly I don't get who attacks burkeev and defends krakauer, they are/were Miles apart, burkeev was a Hero, krakauer an opportunist.
@@lorenzoriva202 Nobody is attacking him for his heroics. They're saying he should have used oxygen and he didn't. That's all. The 2 teams decided to work together. That's what the leaders decided. So, in a way, Boukreev was supposed to be helping everyone, not just 'his' clients.
Can you tell us one moral judgement Krakauer made that was wrong or not also made by actual expert climbers?
And, how is Krakauer an opportunist? He was sent to do a story, and he did. Then he wrote a book and got rich. How is that opportunism?
@@lorenzoriva202 Reinhold Messner said Krakauer did his job and from his own experiences with Anatoli had him right on the money. Krakauer was not experienced above 8000 meters and was in bad shape when he got down. He just would have added to the body count. He was no hero, but he made the right decision. The two groups were supposed to act as a team and Fisher's head Sherpa screwed up by failing to prepare ropes where he was supposed to. The fact that none of Fisher's clients died was due to happenstance. They were acting as one group by agreement.
That being said, I would not place most of the blame on Anatoli. The major mistake was not sticking to turnaround times and that was up to the two leaders. They might have gotten away with it if a particularly bad storm had not struck, but that is always a risk that should be taken into account.
Krakauer is a narcissistic psychopath.
Making money by slandering his colleagues and not helping anybody,
but distracting from his lazy cowardice by attacking one of the most heroic people on everest ever.
And dumb NPC clowns like you fall for krakauers evil manipulations and twisting of reality.
Sad that so many people are dumb enought to fall for Krakauers BS.
He is an arrogant Italian that called the Sherpas slaves.
This is the fool who in 2013 almost got himself and his companion Steck lynched by angry Sherpas.
sherpas arent perfect, they can be bad people too
You are right! Moro is really stupid man...
"Sherpas are the real heroes"
@@francoborroni1306 se Moro é stupido tu sarai un genio immagino ....🤏vola basso e schiva il sasso. ~°
@@johnforealdoe8999 Sherpas are evil uncivilised scumbags.