My Diesel heater tripped out again. This is the third time now and its only been run no more than 8 times! Can anyone help? #Diesel Heater #E08 #Chinesium
Shaun , I had a similar problem. After chasing it down and trying every conceivable option .it was water in the fuel , It was the last thing I suspected. And I couldn’t see the water in the fuel . Stick with it , there good little heaters
i started having E08 on start up. have to reset and try again, sometimes 2 or 3 try"s. before it would light off. from watching videos of others having same problem with soot and dirty running. the power supply i have hooked to it, the voltage output is adjustable. when i hooked it up, the display on the heater showed P-11. so i turned the adjuster, till it read P12. and it worked good all winter, till now. so i bumped the power supply up to P13. now it lights right off. no more problems. so i believe that all the problems stem from the glow plug not getting hot enough for a good burn. by upping the voltage is getting the plug hotter. so burn cleaner.
I have thousands of hours of experience of messing with these things, hands on, and have over 40 videos about them on my channel. You will get a LOT of rubbish advice and have a lot of people lamenting about things that don't matter. I hope I can help. Error 08 simply means that the temp dropped too low / the heater flamed out. The ECU is stupid and that's all it knows. The manuals sometimes overstate the accuracy of the problem. Either from poor stanslation or trying to state a likely issue. There are a LOT of people who lie or exaggerate about what they burn in these heaters. I have videos of my experiments... 30 - 40 different tests... You can not burn waste oils or veg oil... unless you treat your oil with methanol and lye, and turn it into biodiesel. Are you burning diesel or kerosene ? If you are burning fevitable oil, this is your problem. The angle of the pump doesn't matter, the type of fuel line doesn't matter. The metal glow plug mesh, despite what many say, is almost never the issue. I'm not sure why people make a big deal over this part. Don't use a cleaner to clean your chamber off... scrape it off with a knife or screwdriver... It is very wasteful and not very effective to use a spray cleaner. That cleaner may make you feel good, but it's nonsense. It also doesn't need to be perfectly clean... just remove the big chunks. Once your chamber looks like this, you may need a new one, as you can't really clean the area behind the baffle. There is another mesh in that area, if it will get clogged up with soot. This can affect your burn and cause further soot, even if everything else is okay. Get rid of that air inlet hose... It may not be a problem, but it may be causing a restriction... These are very fussy and even with diesel, this may cause an issue. Your shed (the area with the heater) is not sealed well enough to worry about pulling air from outside. Just remove that hose and install the original foot or 14" hose. If you are burning diesel Not all controllers have an engineering menu. If this does, it is likely holding down the wrench button for a few seconds.
Hi, I will replace the old air intake pipe, and pipe up the return air into the shed I`m heating, and maybe install a new burn chamber. I am running fresh red diesel. The heater is up and running now for a couple of days, so we shall see. But i will make those changes asap! Thanks, Shaun.
@@happydaysveg1965 Okay... good. to hear you are running Diesel. In this case, I can tell you that your issue is 100% due to a rich burn condition. This could have been a restriction of your combustion air, a restriction of the exhaust, the fan speed being set too low for your fuel setting / the fuel hz being set too high for your fan speed. These run VERY clean when running properly. I have tested mine at less than 30 parts per million CO and almost no detectable TVOC... OSHA says you can remain in a 50 ppm environment all day...Obviously, you want to vent your exhaust clear of your working / living area. If your CO level is over 40, this indicates you are running too rich. I would recommend buying a cheap CO meter to set your MIN and MAX pump and fan speed, if you have access to an engineering menu.
@loweredexpectations4927 is right. The controllers on these heaters are not sophisticated. The heaters rely on the meshes inside to vaporise the fuel. ( There is no atomisation going on ). Think of your heater as a turbo charged paraffin blow torch and you won't be far off. Your heater seems to be running really rich and a few people have suggested that the air inlet pipe to the burner is too long. That might restrict the air and cause the rich running. But if, as loweredExpectations suggests the burn tube mesh ( which you cannot easily see ) is clogged you need to replace the burn tube.
Yes looks like a common issue, is the fuel gelling due to the cold? You can buy anti-gel additives. Then it won’t flow properly Shaun. Bloody hell always something. Hope you get it solved, Ali 🥶🥶🇨🇦
Hi Ya, I don`t think its the fuel, as when I first fitted it, the weather was great! And the actual fuel tank is in the shed its warming up, and its always warmer in there! Its up and running now and has been put on and off twice! So lets see how it goes! Bloody thing!lol
Hi,today when i open my heater was exactly the same like yours,reading the comments i found the problem,my intake was to long and in that air filter i put another filter and tha air was restricted and fuel was incomplete burned.
Eu am avut evacuarea la 3 metri lungime cu un unghi ridicare la 90 de grade in sus, ceea ce a făcut sa se infunde țeava cu particule de funingine și sa încarce și arzatorul foarte repede. Am renunțat la acel traseu și am scăpat de probleme.
Theres something major wrong with your diesel heating mine has been running 2 winters and i dout id fill an egg cup of soot with what ive wire brushed out.
HI Mate, the E08 error happened twice, before I extended the air intake hose. If it happens again, I will put the original hose back on and have full recirculation on the supply air. 👍
@@happydaysveg1965 so exhaust length isnt your issue. mine was giving me problems when i used a old copper radiator about 16 feet long to utilize the exhaust heat. id defiantly try to run on full blast for 15 min on start up and shut down. it seamed to help my problem after cutting my exhaust down to 8 ish feet. i burn old diesel about 3 years old in mine. haven't cleaned it in a long time now. if your fuel is gelling you can add 5% gass to the diesel.
When you first run your machine run full blast for 15 mins then before you shut your unit off run full blast 15 mins to burn off that shit from building up
Shaun , I had a similar problem. After chasing it down and trying every conceivable option .it was water in the fuel ,
It was the last thing I suspected. And I couldn’t see the water in the fuel . Stick with it , there good little heaters
i started having E08 on start up. have to reset and try again, sometimes 2 or 3 try"s. before it would light off. from watching videos of others having same problem with soot and dirty running. the power supply i have hooked to it, the voltage output is adjustable. when i hooked it up, the display on the heater showed P-11. so i turned the adjuster, till it read P12. and it worked good all winter, till now. so i bumped the power supply up to P13. now it lights right off. no more problems. so i believe that all the problems stem from the glow plug not getting hot enough for a good burn. by upping the voltage is getting the plug hotter. so burn cleaner.
2 months problem!! I shifted everything!! Last night I dumbt the fuel and got new diesel, and it worked perfect!! Shit
I have thousands of hours of experience of messing with these things, hands on, and have over 40 videos about them on my channel. You will get a LOT of rubbish advice and have a lot of people lamenting about things that don't matter. I hope I can help.
Error 08 simply means that the temp dropped too low / the heater flamed out. The ECU is stupid and that's all it knows. The manuals sometimes overstate the accuracy of the problem. Either from poor stanslation or trying to state a likely issue.
There are a LOT of people who lie or exaggerate about what they burn in these heaters. I have videos of my experiments... 30 - 40 different tests... You can not burn waste oils or veg oil... unless you treat your oil with methanol and lye, and turn it into biodiesel.
Are you burning diesel or kerosene ? If you are burning fevitable oil, this is your problem. The angle of the pump doesn't matter, the type of fuel line doesn't matter.
The metal glow plug mesh, despite what many say, is almost never the issue. I'm not sure why people make a big deal over this part. Don't use a cleaner to clean your chamber off... scrape it off with a knife or screwdriver... It is very wasteful and not very effective to use a spray cleaner. That cleaner may make you feel good, but it's nonsense. It also doesn't need to be perfectly clean... just remove the big chunks.
Once your chamber looks like this, you may need a new one, as you can't really clean the area behind the baffle. There is another mesh in that area, if it will get clogged up with soot. This can affect your burn and cause further soot, even if everything else is okay.
Get rid of that air inlet hose... It may not be a problem, but it may be causing a restriction... These are very fussy and even with diesel, this may cause an issue. Your shed (the area with the heater) is not sealed well enough to worry about pulling air from outside. Just remove that hose and install the original foot or 14" hose. If you are burning diesel
Not all controllers have an engineering menu. If this does, it is likely holding down the wrench button for a few seconds.
Hi, I will replace the old air intake pipe, and pipe up the return air into the shed I`m heating, and maybe install a new burn chamber. I am running fresh red diesel. The heater is up and running now for a couple of days, so we shall see. But i will make those changes asap! Thanks, Shaun.
@@happydaysveg1965 Okay... good. to hear you are running Diesel. In this case, I can tell you that your issue is 100% due to a rich burn condition. This could have been a restriction of your combustion air, a restriction of the exhaust, the fan speed being set too low for your fuel setting / the fuel hz being set too high for your fan speed.
These run VERY clean when running properly. I have tested mine at less than 30 parts per million CO and almost no detectable TVOC... OSHA says you can remain in a 50 ppm environment all day...Obviously, you want to vent your exhaust clear of your working / living area. If your CO level is over 40, this indicates you are running too rich.
I would recommend buying a cheap CO meter to set your MIN and MAX pump and fan speed, if you have access to an engineering menu.
@loweredexpectations4927 is right. The controllers on these heaters are not sophisticated. The heaters rely on the meshes inside to vaporise the fuel. ( There is no atomisation going on ). Think of your heater as a turbo charged paraffin blow torch and you won't be far off. Your heater seems to be running really rich and a few people have suggested that the air inlet pipe to the burner is too long. That might restrict the air and cause the rich running. But if, as loweredExpectations suggests the burn tube mesh ( which you cannot easily see ) is clogged you need to replace the burn tube.
Yes looks like a common issue, is the fuel gelling due to the cold? You can buy anti-gel additives. Then it won’t flow properly Shaun. Bloody hell always something. Hope you get it solved, Ali 🥶🥶🇨🇦
Hi Ya, I don`t think its the fuel, as when I first fitted it, the weather was great! And the actual fuel tank is in the shed its warming up, and its always warmer in there! Its up and running now and has been put on and off twice! So lets see how it goes! Bloody thing!lol
Hi,today when i open my heater was exactly the same like yours,reading the comments i found the problem,my intake was to long and in that air filter i put another filter and tha air was restricted and fuel was incomplete burned.
The fuel line type makes no difference as there's no pressure. The only problem you can have with a fuel line is if it is cracked or pinched.
Eu am avut evacuarea la 3 metri lungime cu un unghi ridicare la 90 de grade in sus, ceea ce a făcut sa se infunde țeava cu particule de funingine și sa încarce și arzatorul foarte repede. Am renunțat la acel traseu și am scăpat de probleme.
Theres something major wrong with your diesel heating mine has been running 2 winters and i dout id fill an egg cup of soot with what ive wire brushed out.
Your air intake is to long thus restricting the burn ratio ie your heater is running to rich loads of soot
HI Mate, the E08 error happened twice, before I extended the air intake hose. If it happens again, I will put the original hose back on and have full recirculation on the supply air. 👍
run your heater at full blast for 15 min before you shut it down. how long is your exhaust pipe?
Hi, The exhaust is 1.2 m long. Shaun.
@@happydaysveg1965 so exhaust length isnt your issue. mine was giving me problems when i used a old copper radiator about 16 feet long to utilize the exhaust heat. id defiantly try to run on full blast for 15 min on start up and shut down. it seamed to help my problem after cutting my exhaust down to 8 ish feet. i burn old diesel about 3 years old in mine. haven't cleaned it in a long time now. if your fuel is gelling you can add 5% gass to the diesel.
When you first run your machine run full blast for 15 mins then before you shut your unit off run full blast 15 mins to burn off that shit from building up
Pretty sure the fuel inlet is too close to heat and causing vapour lock when the fuel is evaporating
Hi, Not 100% sure of what you mean to be honest! The fuel inlet is fixed, or do you mean the fuel pump is too close?
Highly unlikely.
Take a look at Alans allottment channel he did a complete set up on a diesel heater last year
Will do! Cheers.
@@happydaysveg1965 muddybootz did one last year as well