A BIG thank you from a low-rent busker living DownUnder, John. I made a busking rig with a different mono TPA3116 board listed in a comment below and it's OK. I'm sure that it would sound better with your help but I am so glad that you do these video reviews. I almost understand the tech-talk! Cheers, Don
Hello, I took the heat sink apart, and surprise, it's not a tpa3116d2 below. The tpa 3116d2 has 32 inputs / outputs, this amplifier chip only 16 ... no wonder it outputs so little power. I could send you a picture if you like.
From what I heard from my headphones, I always use them for reference, the bass was still weak even going directly into the amp chip. You may gain some bass by driving the amp with a EQ or a mixing board to gain EQ. For the price though, it could be a low cost usable amp. Your review and analysis makes it easy to make decisions about if it would work for your own needs. Because of the heat sink being enough to let it run cool, this could be mounted in a studio monitor cabinet. Use a 12-18 volt power supply at 1 amp(wall wart) and drive it with a mixer. Bam! Self powered speaker mod for $20 a speaker! Thank you so much for sharing! Love your channel. Johns audio and a hot, strong cup of coffee, first thing in the morning. Thankz
Hello John, thank you for the review. I tested it with bass guitar directly and via equalizer pedal (which is also used as preamp). I tried with 4.7uF, and also two 10uF back-to-back in serial (to eliminate the polarity). My conclusion is to keep c7/c8 as it is and to use the guitar via preamp. There is improvement in sound while using a preamp so that I assume the input impedance is indeed too low. I could not hear such improvement while changing the input capacitor to a larger one (it sound quite flat to my ears in both cases). On the contrary! a larger capacitor especially on high DC voltage (above 12V) generated uncontrolled very-low-frequency resonance (about 1-3 Hz) which could damage the speaker. Please be careful with this modification or maybe look for an alternative board!!! And... I checked it on two boards so that it is not the specific individual board problem. I will be glad to see a detailed schematic diagram of this board or modification that will make this board more stable.
@@vinigretzky97 Not recently. I did not keep this board. It was just DIY curiosity. Sorry to say but it is a "toy" for bass guitar... You can get a much better choice 2nd hand small bass combo...
@@dave5533 I mainly want to use it for a portable bluetooth box but if the integrated preamp offers enough gain for instrument inputs then even better.
I absolutely love your channel sir! I'm an avid car audio enthusiast and upcoming competitor. I've worked on several top cars both current and in the past. I've been so interested in these Chinese amp boards. I've only been researching them for a few weeks now. I love the pricing but then again, I really like the quality of the Sure and Wondom models. I am looking at doing a project using class D amps. I would really like to use a full range MONO amp per channel. This way, each driver get's it's own amplifier. No crosstalk plus the ability to go fully active with my DSP's. I like to run 4 channels up front since I use wideband speakers for my midrange and top end. I'm currently running Hybrid Audio Technologies speakers in our competition Acura build in progress. By the way, I'm not doing this as an expense cutting tool. I'm doing it to see what one can get a certain price points. I promise you, I have no shortage of amplifiers....lol. Back to my speakers..... My widebanders are 3 inches in size. They are currently running at 300hz and up. The manual states 50 watts per channel but I'm currently using 125 watts and have massaged them thoroughly with 200 watts!!! lol. In my doors are the Hybrid Audio Legatia L6SE (Special Edition) mid bass. These are a 7.1 inch mid/sub....as that's what I like to call them. I have them playing in a bandpass config starting at 36hz up to the L2SE's 300hz. They play low and can take power. Plus I have built my doors very solid.....adding close to 75lbs of various types of deadening materials. My sub is out as of right now. It's a HAT Clarus 15 incher set up in an infinite baffle configuration. What would be a good way to get ahold of you privately as I want to run some experiments. It can be hard to do that with prying eyes everywhere!!! I don't care to give my cell phone out since I had a pressure washing business and advertised all the time....7066339149 if wish to text...jmurphy30513@gmail.com for email. Facebook messenger is my best contact though. I'm from Blue Ridge GA and my profile pic is me and fiance...lol. I just need to know which models to get and the ones to run like hell from! LOL! Man....I'm looking forward to this!!!!
Sure and Wondom models i got 2 units i love them sound is very punchy and clean 250 x2 board 4 years ago may be {looks the same still } i like had or still has pots to adjust frequency of switching with led lights so one can dial it in with out a scope {worked fer me } witch is good wen up grading caps to lower ESR the one with upright heat sink i do not run it a lot but installed it in a old 55 watt receiver thing rock i did in stall nichicon cap as the cap they used then were getting hot cool as a cucumber now with nichicon gold caps on it 2 x 250Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board - IRS2092[627]..NOTE ill bet the unit i got and swapped the Four Large Capacitors on had one crappy cap from day one. i have not even hooked the other 250x2 board yet one up yet .i have 4 other board from SURE Wondom all work fine not tweaking but their are upgrade talked of in forums ill be getting the digital DSP board.Some amp have it built in now with all the sound setting equalizer built in it seems like a bargain store.sure-electronics.com/list/2
@Infinite Shoeblack Gave the internet my email address? And you have a cell phone and carry it around with you everywhere? How's everything going since China appreciated you buying a cell phone with a camera and signed every Eula agreement out there when you cranked it up and put your phone number in it? I've had that email address, along with probably six others for 10 years. I have a pressure washing business with a website so it's not like I've been able to hide off the internet lol. It always seems like I can find certain people no matter where you go that has a Google degree and hides behind the keyboard. I don't understand why I comment like that had to be put after saying an actual educational statement.... I guess the internet will always be predictable lol
@Infinite Shoeblack now I wonder why I couldn't remember this post. It's been 3 freaking years ago! The thing is, I don't have spam on that email lol. It's funny how I can get it from someone posting on a 3-year-old post...
One thing about heat-sinks - with IC's they should always be mounted with sprung screws or push-pins, NOT cemented to the chip as appears to be the case here, to allow for different expansion rates of the die and sink. When there's no way to facilitate this, I use small dots of glue (usually superglue) at the corners of the die, and thermal paste.
Clearly no one tests these boards after manufacturing. I often think they are made by none technical manufacturers that simply copy basic circuits from the chip makers. These are often made to give parameters of the chip but are not really complete circuits. Just a little more attention to detail and they could have a good if not great product. I think they really don't care.
Neat. Have been interested in class D amps for a while - would be nice to go directly from a digital signal straight to amplified output - but haven't found a hiss-free bass-y on yet. Not very experienced in audio so your channel helps a lot!
At 26 volts the TPA3116D2 is rated for around 135 watts into a 2 ohm load in BD mode and around 165 watts at 10% THD into 2 ohms. Now nothing on the board you tested would survive that short of maybe the IC itself. The inductors would go up in smoke for sure. Yah I'm a TPA3116 fan boy.
I'd hazard a guess that the roll off was deliberate as the output filters are undersized. The inductors need to be able to stay within their BH curve and well away from saturation at the peak current of the lowest frequency called upon and with some head room. Really want to be able to push peak current at 10hz without saturating. Decent class D have big output inductors. Those ones are alright for removing the modulation artifacts at higher frequencies but if you tested it I'd suspect to see break through at full power at low frequencies as the cores saturate.
I don't think it's much of a problem with tpa3116, having a small inductors. I bought a slightly different board, had some wrong component values like gain resistors (digital gain setting was 36db, creating a nasty hiss) but I've tested it and it has quite decent frequency responce. But.. I'm not sure.. I'm learning and experimenting. TPA3116 has a few different modulation settings that can be selected by external resistors so maybe that could be the case?? This chip has a modulation setting that allows you to use it without any low pass filters. With that kind of topology and modulation I noticed quite a reduced bass response but only on synthetic loads, hooking it up to an actual speaker using as shortest wires as possible like datasheet sudgests it wasn't an issue . So.. idk.. What kind of chokes could I use to see how much of a difference it makes?
Nice review. Maybe you could to lower the gain of the opamp and make it part of the input again, to see if it removes the last bit of hiss on the output. Not that I can really see the logic behind this, but you never know.
I just tested a dual TPA3116 board which does not have op-amp stages on the inputs, but I am getting the same issue that you had - Poor bass response. The bass is there but really low level - There is a distinct audible high pass effect going on. The input potentiometer is dual 50K and the input capacitors are all surface mount (so I don't know their value). Further testing to be done . . .
My guess is that's a 5532 op amp. As you know it provides some buffering to the amp, but likely used because so many inputs, like iphones, are very poorly impedance matched and have low signals. Your point about caps and better gain matching is unforgivable. Why make a nice board and screw it up with this design flaw. I was also suprised about the hiss, that op amp should be very quiet.
100W at 4 ohms, guess that it is peak power and not RMS. They also state output power at 10% THD which if you look at the formulas on the data sheet they state that is 1.25x the unclipped power.
Just curious to know if this board had a loud thump sound when powering on/off. Many TPA3116 boards don't have a delay circuit on mute so they can damage the speakers when cycling power. Also, I've read and seen one video where the output filter gets fried if no load is connected (24-26V input). Apparently a delayed speaker isolation relay won't work as it might burn the coils. I'm probably testing if I can drive it with a dummy load while it's "booting".
Hi, great job but can you explain the mod exactly as I have tried (22uf polarized cap) and sound goes on and off at low rate no mater cap orientation ??? Did you remove any other component or used unpolarized cad ? What exact holes to connect from c7 to c8 ?
Thats single channel, so its bridged yeah? Datasheet says tpa3116 is rated at 100W@4ohms bridged mode. I measured mine and getting 55W@4ohms bridged before clipping. 2Vp-p input.
Hi,thank's for the video, i'm trying to make a "Guitar amp" with this chip but the sound had a lot of midrange and not treble. I also tried to put a small valve preamp with eq between Guitar and input but the problem is still no treble. Anyway I made your mod and now there is a lot of bass
someone in my facebook group has modified this amplifier kit (to be precise in the ne5532 op amp installed there), which makes the output of this amplifier to be bass only, I am interested and want the same thing, but he doesn't tell us the method and value of which components that should be replaced, maybe you can help me? thank you🙏
the EBay TPA3116 boards do not have the preamp and your right you do not need a preamp I built a boom box ( gettoblaster ) with 2 of these and a mp3 player
Hi John. My name is Jorge and I am writing to you from Argentina. First of all, I am very sorry to hear about the death of your brother. I usually watch your videos but I don't write much. I also had a brother die of cancer and that's why I know your pain. Regarding this amplifier that you have tested... do you know what maximum voltage it accepts at the input before the output be clipped? My idea is to use this amp as a subwoofer powered with 24Volts. I hope you read my message and want to answer me. From Buenos Aires, I send you a big greeting.
Are you planning on ever reviewing Dayton KAB amplifiers? They’re a bit more than the usual Chinese cheap amps but have none of the startup pops, hiss or annoying voice prompts. They’re also modular. Would be interesting to see you in depth review style on an amp like that.
I would love to test and review a lot more amplifiers and other electronics. I can't afford to purchase items often for the sole purpose of making a video. Even if it got 10K views, it wouldn't be enough to pay for the item. Hopefully I can get companies who trust me enough to send items in for a review.
Hello John, thank you for the review. I bought this card, but I realize that even with your modification, it will not deliver enough power for my little 10 inch JBL sub. What is the other limiting factor? Can adding a large capacitor to the three small ones on each side promote a gain? thank you for your video that I unfortunately discovered after my purchase. But as they say in France, better late than never. Happy New Year to you and your loved ones. Vincent
hola ,que raro mucha diferencia de 150w a 50 w reales ..pienso ,no sera q te mide 50 w por que salteaste el preamplificador inversor y por eso no te dio por lo menos 100 w ? mm
Hi Jhon. Excellent video. ¿This amp with the capacitor hack is suitable for powered a passive subwoofer from a home theater? The input signal that goes into the amp comes filtered and is between 20 and 300 Hz. ¿Should I get enough bass?
Hey there! I need to así u something. I bought the same Poweramp and im using a 24v 6amp switching power supply but i get a tremolo effect when is turned loud or when i play hard. Any idea?
because a switch mode power supply "pulses" it's voltage output (switching on and off and a set frequency), but a "conventional power supply (ie standard "step-down" mains transformer) & bridge rectifier arrangement is much better..ie : NO Tremelo effect!!
I'm going to use one of these to run a compression driver with a 3 way tone control board to tune the top end. I guess there is no need to change the caps in this case or, would the top end also be affected by using the ceramic caps? Thanks. James
Greetings John! Many of your videos have been a lot of help to me when making Bluetooth speakers. But for my recent project I am using two separate amplifiers. Therefore I would like to ask you if you would know of a solution I could use to power both amplifiers with one power supply, because for now I am getting a lot of noise from using one power supply, I believe that is because of the ground loop. I could use an isolated transformer to get rid of the ground loop but I need a different solution because the isolated converter would not withstand the current that the amplifier would draw. Would you have any suggestions on powering two amplifiers with a single power supply? Thank you so much, I hope you will respond..
Hey John. I've a bit of confusion. The mono version of tpa3116 you tested here delivered about 50w into 4ohms mono. However, the same chip is used in another Amp you reviewed from breeze Audio. And it's 50w into TWO channels. Can you tell me why is that? Love from Pakistan!
On this amp I’m having trouble summing to mono the stereo signal from my Sure Bluetooth. How did you sum the output of your stereo signal to the board?
Lot of information on the board however just need your suggestion please.. I have 2 sets of 30W 4ohms speaker + 260W 8ohms tweeter so i could use them as right and left channels.. Its setup in a single housing.. Im not sure how to choose an stereo amplifier board with bluetooth for this setup.. Need your help to recommend the best amp board with bluetooth please..
Hello sir I have TDA8954th 420watts mono amplifier I was playing music when I increase the volume popping noise starts coming on high volume and after that amplifier just stopped giving output but amplifier is still on but not giving output Supply Voltage: 28-0-28 Speaker: 30 watts 3 ohms I was using these speakers with it but today that popping noise came and amplifier stopped giving output I will make a video on it if u want so u can see my problem an understand it better Sir if u have any solution plz kindly help me with it Thankyou in advance
I buy this amp board last week and i waiting to arive but after i seing this video i want to ask you . This board will be decent for a 15 ichi 150w 8ohmi speaker at 26v input ( i know verry cheep and not soo poweerfull but ) . Just let me know because after the rezult i seing on 24v input and 31w on 8 ohmi without distorsion the outpout is not soo great but just let me know is will be decent i will do i video on this maybe sooner when i will get the all the part but . I Hope maybe will be a decent amp
I'm using this one with a small mixer for a busking PA with small SLA batteries for power (24V): www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-12V-24V-100W-TPA3116DA-Mono-Channel-Digital-Power-Audio-Amplifier-Board/191966402559?hash=item2cb216d7ff:g:nmkAAOSwgmJX0ntc. I don't know anything about anything tech-wise but my rig sounds good. Guess I got lucky. Anybody that wants to give me some pointers, please....
Hi JohnAudioTech or anyone. Your expertise would be greatly appreciated. I built a portable bluetooth speaker box using the TPA3116D2 2.1 Amp.. Besides listening to music . I want to use it as a speakerphone for telephone Conference calling, I want to make telephone calls with this bluetooth speaker box.. What extra items do i need???
Connect a resistor in the 2k2 range in series with the input and connect a .1uf cap from the amp side of the resistor to ground. Adjust the capacitor value up or down to suit your needs. I did a video about an active filter for better performance.
I ordered one of these about 2 months ago for 6 bucks. I wanted to see how over rated it is. I see now it isn't over rated but it seems to be over driven lol. wish i had found this first i would have saved 6 bucks.
Hi man, how do you connect your oscilloscope to the amplifier ? I see that you use a resistor. Where does exactly do you conect the oscilloscope? And do you use the resistor in order not to damadge you oscilloscope? Thank you
I connect the resistor across the output and connect the scope probes across the resistor. It is important to be sure the signal source and power supply are not grounded or the ground of the scope probe can short the amplifier output.
@@JohnAudioTech Hi it's me again.. At 10:07 of this video i see that you have ground and Line of the oscilloscope connected one on each side of the Resistor, Doesn't that make the current want to go across the Oscilloscope? Do you use a probe with resistor or do you connect it straight to the oscilloscope with normal cables? How much power your oscilloscope can handle? I am buying one the oscilloscope and i'm not sure how to use. Though it says that it can handle (DC voltage (V) 400mV/ 4V/ 40V/ 400V with accuracy of ±(1%+5). Can it really handle 400v? or do I have to use the probe with resistor to lower that voltage? I have no idea how much voltage comes out of this TPA3116 amps. Thanks again!!
I'm planning to use this as a modification to my car's audio system. Im planning to run this mono board with a PEERLESS BY TYMPHANY PLS-P830970 50W 2" Woofer With a 12v step down variable regulator set to maximum 12v as reading the board specs its maximum output at 12v input is 50w matching the speaker. Obviously I'd never max it as I don't need too. I simply wanna add an aditional mono center speaker to improve the sound stage of the car. Would you say my thoughts above are correct and am I correct on assuming the audio input is low lever as I plan to run the RCA left and right outputs through a passive RCA stereo to mono convertor then out, cutting off the end of the RCA and terminating into the amp.
Power into 4 ohms with a 12v supply would be around 15 watts before clipping. Input is line level and you may need to adjust its input trimmer to balance the sound.
@@JohnAudioTech input trimmer to balance the sound. Sorry i dont follow this was simply a thought i had the other day im no expert. So how is this adjusted?
1amp, but you could use 12v @ 3amp and the chip will only draw what it needs. Needs a heatsink for long life. Drain-Source On-State Resistance RDS(ON) VCC = 12V IO = 1A TJ = +25°C High Side 200 mΩ Low Side 200 Total 400 10W @ 10%THD/Channel Output into a 8Ω Load at 13V Heat sink is required for high power output. The PAM8610 is a 10W (per channel) stereo Class-D audio amplifier with DC Volume Control which offers low THD+N (0.1%), low EMI, and good PSRR thus high-quality sound reproduction. The 32 steps DC volume control has a +32dB to -75dB range. The PAM8610 runs off of a 7V to 15V supply at much higher efficiency than competitors’ ICs. The PAM8610 only requires very few external components, significantly saving cost and board space. The PAM8610 is available in a 40pin QFN 6mm*6mm package 10W @ 10%THD/Channel Output into a 8Ω Load at 13V Low Noise: -90dB Over 90% Efficiency 32 Step DC Volume Control from -75dB to +32dB With Shutdown/Mute/Fade Function Over Current , Thermal and Short-Circuit Protection Low THD+N Low Quiescent Current Pop Noise Suppression Small Package Outlines: Thin 40-pin QFN 6mm*6mm Package Pb-Free Package (RoHS Complaint
In particular the 2x100W PBTL TPA3116D2. I have a dozen of these and I'm interested in modifying them to improve hum and also hopefully ADAU1701 DSP-controlled mute when no signal is detected. Available on ebay for around $6. www.banggood.com/2x100W-TPA3116-D2-Dual-Channel-Digital-Audio-Amplifier-Board-12V-24V-For-Arduino-p-1019109.html?cur_warehouse=CN
Good afternoon friends, can someone give me information about the specifications of the electrolytic capacitor? In addition to being 4.7 micro farads, would I need to know what voltage it has to be and how it is soldered to the plate, the positive in the c7 and the negative in the c8? or vice versa ?, thank you very much, greetings.
I am sure the voltage should be at minimum the highest voltage you would use...maybe 24v. For which way around to solder it, i would check pos and negative with a multimeter. Should work ok.
A BIG thank you from a low-rent busker living DownUnder, John. I made a busking rig with a different mono TPA3116 board listed in a comment below and it's OK. I'm sure that it would sound better with your help but I am so glad that you do these video reviews. I almost understand the tech-talk! Cheers, Don
Hello, I took the heat sink apart, and surprise, it's not a tpa3116d2 below. The tpa 3116d2 has 32 inputs / outputs, this amplifier chip only 16 ... no wonder it outputs so little power. I could send you a picture if you like.
From what I heard from my headphones, I always use them for reference, the bass was still weak even going directly into the amp chip. You may gain some bass by driving the amp with a EQ or a mixing board to gain EQ. For the price though, it could be a low cost usable amp. Your review and analysis makes it easy to make decisions about if it would work for your own needs. Because of the heat sink being enough to let it run cool, this could be mounted in a studio monitor cabinet. Use a 12-18 volt power supply at 1 amp(wall wart) and drive it with a mixer. Bam! Self powered speaker mod for $20 a speaker! Thank you so much for sharing! Love your channel. Johns audio and a hot, strong cup of coffee, first thing in the morning. Thankz
a trick : watch series at kaldroStream. Been using it for watching loads of movies these days.
@Sebastian Ryder yea, been watching on KaldroStream for years myself :D
Hello John, thank you for the review. I tested it with bass guitar directly and via equalizer pedal (which is also used as preamp). I tried with 4.7uF, and also two 10uF back-to-back in serial (to eliminate the polarity). My conclusion is to keep c7/c8 as it is and to use the guitar via preamp. There is improvement in sound while using a preamp so that I assume the input impedance is indeed too low. I could not hear such improvement while changing the input capacitor to a larger one (it sound quite flat to my ears in both cases). On the contrary! a larger capacitor especially on high DC voltage (above 12V) generated uncontrolled very-low-frequency resonance (about 1-3 Hz) which could damage the speaker. Please be careful with this modification or maybe look for an alternative board!!!
And... I checked it on two boards so that it is not the specific individual board problem.
I will be glad to see a detailed schematic diagram of this board or modification that will make this board more stable.
Does the integrated preamp have enough gain to amplify passive bass guitar signal?
@@vinigretzky97 I would not trust on that. Better to have active guitar effect or preamp before.
@@dave5533 So you didn't try it?
@@vinigretzky97 Not recently.
I did not keep this board.
It was just DIY curiosity.
Sorry to say but it is a "toy" for bass guitar...
You can get a much better choice 2nd hand small bass combo...
@@dave5533 I mainly want to use it for a portable bluetooth box but if the integrated preamp offers enough gain for instrument inputs then even better.
I absolutely love your channel sir!
I'm an avid car audio enthusiast and upcoming competitor. I've worked on several top cars both current and in the past.
I've been so interested in these Chinese amp boards. I've only been researching them for a few weeks now. I love the pricing but then again, I really like the quality of the Sure and Wondom models. I am looking at doing a project using class D amps. I would really like to use a full range MONO amp per channel. This way, each driver get's it's own amplifier. No crosstalk plus the ability to go fully active with my DSP's. I like to run 4 channels up front since I use wideband speakers for my midrange and top end. I'm currently running Hybrid Audio Technologies speakers in our competition Acura build in progress. By the way, I'm not doing this as an expense cutting tool. I'm doing it to see what one can get a certain price points. I promise you, I have no shortage of amplifiers....lol.
Back to my speakers.....
My widebanders are 3 inches in size. They are currently running at 300hz and up. The manual states 50 watts per channel but I'm currently using 125 watts and have massaged them thoroughly with 200 watts!!! lol.
In my doors are the Hybrid Audio Legatia L6SE (Special Edition) mid bass. These are a 7.1 inch mid/sub....as that's what I like to call them. I have them playing in a bandpass config starting at 36hz up to the L2SE's 300hz. They play low and can take power. Plus I have built my doors very solid.....adding close to 75lbs of various types of deadening materials.
My sub is out as of right now. It's a HAT Clarus 15 incher set up in an infinite baffle configuration.
What would be a good way to get ahold of you privately as I want to run some experiments. It can be hard to do that with prying eyes everywhere!!!
I don't care to give my cell phone out since I had a pressure washing business and advertised all the time....7066339149 if wish to text...jmurphy30513@gmail.com for email.
Facebook messenger is my best contact though. I'm from Blue Ridge GA and my profile pic is me and fiance...lol.
I just need to know which models to get and the ones to run like hell from! LOL!
Man....I'm looking forward to this!!!!
Sure and Wondom models i got 2 units i love them sound is very punchy and clean 250 x2 board 4 years ago may be {looks the same still } i like had or still has pots to adjust frequency of switching with led lights so one can dial it in with out a scope {worked fer me } witch is good wen up grading caps to lower ESR the one with upright heat sink i do not run it a lot but installed it in a old 55 watt receiver thing rock i did in stall nichicon cap as the cap they used then were getting hot cool as a cucumber now with nichicon gold caps on it 2 x 250Watt Class D Audio Amplifier Board - IRS2092[627]..NOTE ill bet the unit i got and swapped the Four Large Capacitors on had one crappy cap from day one. i have not even hooked the other 250x2 board yet one up yet .i have 4 other board from SURE Wondom all work fine not tweaking but their are upgrade talked of in forums ill be getting the digital DSP board.Some amp have it built in now with all the sound setting equalizer built in it seems like a bargain store.sure-electronics.com/list/2
@Infinite Shoeblack
Gave the internet my email address? And you have a cell phone and carry it around with you everywhere? How's everything going since China appreciated you buying a cell phone with a camera and signed every Eula agreement out there when you cranked it up and put your phone number in it?
I've had that email address, along with probably six others for 10 years. I have a pressure washing business with a website so it's not like I've been able to hide off the internet lol. It always seems like I can find certain people no matter where you go that has a Google degree and hides behind the keyboard. I don't understand why I comment like that had to be put after saying an actual educational statement....
I guess the internet will always be predictable lol
@Infinite Shoeblack now I wonder why I couldn't remember this post. It's been 3 freaking years ago!
The thing is, I don't have spam on that email lol.
It's funny how I can get it from someone posting on a 3-year-old post...
One thing about heat-sinks - with IC's they should always be mounted with sprung screws or push-pins, NOT cemented to the chip as appears to be the case here, to allow for different expansion rates of the die and sink. When there's no way to facilitate this, I use small dots of glue (usually superglue) at the corners of the die, and thermal paste.
excellent tip, and great point!
Clearly no one tests these boards after manufacturing. I often think they are made by none technical manufacturers that simply copy basic circuits from the chip makers. These are often made to give parameters of the chip but are not really complete circuits. Just a little more attention to detail and they could have a good if not great product. I think they really don't care.
The yellow caps are tantalium caps very good for audio
LOL, no they are solid polymer. But yes good for audio. Edit: Unless your talking about the orange caps which are tantalums.
Neat. Have been interested in class D amps for a while - would be nice to go directly from a digital signal straight to amplified output - but haven't found a hiss-free bass-y on yet. Not very experienced in audio so your channel helps a lot!
At 26 volts the TPA3116D2 is rated for around 135 watts into a 2 ohm load in BD mode and around 165 watts at 10% THD into 2 ohms. Now nothing on the board you tested would survive that short of maybe the IC itself. The inductors would go up in smoke for sure. Yah I'm a TPA3116 fan boy.
I'd hazard a guess that the roll off was deliberate as the output filters are undersized.
The inductors need to be able to stay within their BH curve and well away from saturation at the peak current of the lowest frequency called upon and with some head room. Really want to be able to push peak current at 10hz without saturating.
Decent class D have big output inductors. Those ones are alright for removing the modulation artifacts at higher frequencies but if you tested it I'd suspect to see break through at full power at low frequencies as the cores saturate.
I don't think it's much of a problem with tpa3116, having a small inductors. I bought a slightly different board, had some wrong component values like gain resistors (digital gain setting was 36db, creating a nasty hiss) but I've tested it and it has quite decent frequency responce. But.. I'm not sure.. I'm learning and experimenting.
TPA3116 has a few different modulation settings that can be selected by external resistors so maybe that could be the case?? This chip has a modulation setting that allows you to use it without any low pass filters. With that kind of topology and modulation I noticed quite a reduced bass response but only on synthetic loads, hooking it up to an actual speaker using as shortest wires as possible like datasheet sudgests it wasn't an issue . So.. idk.. What kind of chokes could I use to see how much of a difference it makes?
Nice review. Maybe you could to lower the gain of the opamp and make it part of the input again, to see if it removes the last bit of hiss on the output. Not that I can really see the logic behind this, but you never know.
have you tried that? How would you do it?
I just tested a dual TPA3116 board which does not have op-amp stages on the inputs, but I am getting the same issue that you had - Poor bass response. The bass is there but really low level - There is a distinct audible high pass effect going on.
The input potentiometer is dual 50K and the input capacitors are all surface mount (so I don't know their value).
Further testing to be done . . .
Clara Peller lives on!
My guess is that's a 5532 op amp. As you know it provides some buffering to the amp, but likely used because so many inputs, like iphones, are very poorly impedance matched and have low signals. Your point about caps and better gain matching is unforgivable. Why make a nice board and screw it up with this design flaw. I was also suprised about the hiss, that op amp should be very quiet.
Got 2 for the price you payed and thanks for the mod!
I believe the spec sheet for a 3116 list's 100w at 2 ohms when bridged
100W at 4 ohms, guess that it is peak power and not RMS. They also state output power at 10% THD which if you look at the formulas on the data sheet they state that is 1.25x the unclipped power.
Just curious to know if this board had a loud thump sound when powering on/off. Many TPA3116 boards don't have a delay circuit on mute so they can damage the speakers when cycling power. Also, I've read and seen one video where the output filter gets fried if no load is connected (24-26V input). Apparently a delayed speaker isolation relay won't work as it might burn the coils. I'm probably testing if I can drive it with a dummy load while it's "booting".
Hi, great job but can you explain the mod exactly as I have tried (22uf polarized cap) and sound goes on and off at low rate no mater cap orientation ??? Did you remove any other component or used unpolarized cad ? What exact holes to connect from c7 to c8 ?
Thats single channel, so its bridged yeah? Datasheet says tpa3116 is rated at 100W@4ohms bridged mode. I measured mine and getting 55W@4ohms bridged before clipping. 2Vp-p input.
Hi,thank's for the video, i'm trying to make a "Guitar amp" with this chip but the sound had a lot of midrange and not treble. I also tried to put a small valve preamp with eq between Guitar and input but the problem is still no treble. Anyway I made your mod and now there is a lot of bass
someone in my facebook group has modified this amplifier kit (to be precise in the ne5532 op amp installed there), which makes the output of this amplifier to be bass only, I am interested and want the same thing, but he doesn't tell us the method and value of which components that should be replaced, maybe you can help me? thank you🙏
They are sold out for now! Sure they will gladly send you more stuff to review!
the EBay TPA3116 boards do not have the preamp and your right you do not need a preamp I built a boom box ( gettoblaster ) with 2 of these and a mp3 player
Hi John. My name is Jorge and I am writing to you from Argentina.
First of all, I am very sorry to hear about the death of your brother. I usually watch your videos but I don't write much.
I also had a brother die of cancer and that's why I know your pain.
Regarding this amplifier that you have tested... do you know what maximum voltage it accepts at the input before the output be clipped? My idea is to use this amp as a subwoofer powered with 24Volts.
I hope you read my message and want to answer me.
From Buenos Aires, I send you a big greeting.
How can you do this mod on other "newer" 3116d2's?
The H bridge output doubles the input voltage so you 4 times the power compared to AB class.
Are you planning on ever reviewing Dayton KAB amplifiers? They’re a bit more than the usual Chinese cheap amps but have none of the startup pops, hiss or annoying voice prompts. They’re also modular. Would be interesting to see you in depth review style on an amp like that.
I would love to test and review a lot more amplifiers and other electronics. I can't afford to purchase items often for the sole purpose of making a video. Even if it got 10K views, it wouldn't be enough to pay for the item. Hopefully I can get companies who trust me enough to send items in for a review.
JohnAudioTech well I will make it a point to send you one then. How does one donate to your channel?
Hello John, thank you for the review. I bought this card, but I realize that even with your modification, it will not deliver enough power for my little 10 inch JBL sub. What is the other limiting factor? Can adding a large capacitor to the three small ones on each side promote a gain? thank you for your video that I unfortunately discovered after my purchase. But as they say in France, better late than never. Happy New Year to you and your loved ones. Vincent
You should take a look at some of the cheap LM3886TF amplifiers.
hola ,que raro mucha diferencia de 150w a 50 w reales ..pienso ,no sera q te mide 50 w por que salteaste el preamplificador inversor y por eso no te dio por lo menos 100 w ? mm
I don't know why they designed so much gain in either, especially poorly capacitor coupled like that. Nice fix tho.
how to modif the module to resolve the Turn-On Thump / Anti-Pop Circuit
, cause the heatsink
detachable
Hi Jhon. Excellent video. ¿This amp with the capacitor hack is suitable for powered a passive subwoofer from a home theater?
The input signal that goes into the amp comes filtered and is between 20 and 300 Hz.
¿Should I get enough bass?
Hey there! I need to así u something. I bought the same Poweramp and im using a 24v 6amp switching power supply but i get a tremolo effect when is turned loud or when i play hard. Any idea?
because a switch mode power supply "pulses" it's voltage output (switching on and off and a set frequency), but a "conventional power supply (ie standard "step-down" mains transformer) & bridge rectifier arrangement is much better..ie : NO Tremelo effect!!
I'm going to use one of these to run a compression driver with a 3 way tone control board to tune the top end. I guess there is no need to change the caps in this case or, would the top end also be affected by using the ceramic caps?
Thanks.
James
what is the differences between all the different classes and how do they sound when compared. It would make a cool video.
Please do a benchmark video for tpa3118
Greetings John!
Many of your videos have been a lot of help to me when making Bluetooth speakers. But for my recent project I am using two separate amplifiers. Therefore I would like to ask you if you would know of a solution I could use to power both amplifiers with one power supply, because for now I am getting a lot of noise from using one power supply, I believe that is because of the ground loop. I could use an isolated transformer to get rid of the ground loop but I need a different solution because the isolated converter would not withstand the current that the amplifier would draw. Would you have any suggestions on powering two amplifiers with a single power supply? Thank you so much, I hope you will respond..
Hi
Can you send the diagram for the 4.7uf electrolytic caps connection
It should be 110W then 55RMS. Good to know. Have you done the 600W one at around 50V DC?
very interesting !! thankyou for sharing .. is there any diy class-D amp on the internet incl print-board drawing that gives 2 x 200 watts ?
Hey John. I've a bit of confusion. The mono version of tpa3116 you tested here delivered about 50w into 4ohms mono. However, the same chip is used in another Amp you reviewed from breeze Audio. And it's 50w into TWO channels. Can you tell me why is that? Love from Pakistan!
John - is that a 4.7uF polar electrolytic? I also have non-polar in 4.7 if that would be better.
Hey john can i made a aluminium box with all ground togueter ..with the tpa3116?
Please real watts RMS to 4 ohms R4 impedance ... A 18 ~ 20v DC 5A power supply ?
On this amp I’m having trouble summing to mono the stereo signal from my Sure Bluetooth. How did you sum the output of your stereo signal to the board?
Does anyone notice a difference when using a 12v versus 24v power supply?
Lot of information on the board however just need your suggestion please..
I have 2 sets of 30W 4ohms speaker + 260W 8ohms tweeter so i could use them as right and left channels.. Its setup in a single housing.. Im not sure how to choose an stereo amplifier board with bluetooth for this setup.. Need your help to recommend the best amp board with bluetooth please..
hi, how much difference compared to LM1875 in term of sound quality?
Hope your dad is doing well.
Is it possible that this board it to connect directly to a microphone? That would explain the x10 amplifier.
I doubt it, a mic input would need a 1mV at least.
Can I modify the board to work directly with a guitar?
That could also explain the high pass filter...
how do you turn off the vocals? what needs to be changed?
Hello sir
I have TDA8954th 420watts mono amplifier I was playing music when I increase the volume popping noise starts coming on high volume and after that amplifier just stopped giving output but amplifier is still on but not giving output
Supply Voltage: 28-0-28
Speaker: 30 watts 3 ohms
I was using these speakers with it but today that popping noise came and amplifier stopped giving output I will make a video on it if u want so u can see my problem an understand it better
Sir if u have any solution plz kindly help me with it
Thankyou in advance
I buy this amp board last week and i waiting to arive but after i seing this video i want to ask you . This board will be decent for a 15 ichi 150w 8ohmi speaker at 26v input ( i know verry cheep and not soo poweerfull but ) . Just let me know because after the rezult i seing on 24v input and 31w on 8 ohmi without distorsion the outpout is not soo great but just let me know is will be decent i will do i video on this maybe sooner when i will get the all the part but . I Hope maybe will be a decent amp
Folks use this board to make battery powered guitar amps.
The preamp helps with this.
Input impedance is too low for guitar work.
I'm using one very similar to this as a bass guitar amp.
I'm using this one with a small mixer for a busking PA with small SLA batteries for power (24V): www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-12V-24V-100W-TPA3116DA-Mono-Channel-Digital-Power-Audio-Amplifier-Board/191966402559?hash=item2cb216d7ff:g:nmkAAOSwgmJX0ntc. I don't know anything about anything tech-wise but my rig sounds good. Guess I got lucky. Anybody that wants to give me some pointers, please....
What is the input impedance for this amp? I was trying to determine what size potentiometer to use for a volume control. Thanks!
Hi JohnAudioTech or anyone. Your expertise would be greatly appreciated.
I built a portable bluetooth speaker box using the TPA3116D2 2.1 Amp.. Besides listening to music .
I want to use it as a speakerphone for telephone Conference calling, I want to make telephone calls with this bluetooth speaker box..
What extra items do i need???
Which amplifier is the best performance For using with 12 volt?
better this tpa3116 or yamaha dual chip yda138???
Sir a very common question but very useful
HOW CAN I MAKE A LOW PASS FILTER FOR THE INPUT?
Connect a resistor in the 2k2 range in series with the input and connect a .1uf cap from the amp side of the resistor to ground. Adjust the capacitor value up or down to suit your needs. I did a video about an active filter for better performance.
My yda148 is still the better amp - I’m going to try a STA328 amplifier next month when it arrives, I have read good reviews keep up the good work
I ordered one of these about 2 months ago for 6 bucks. I wanted to see how over rated it is. I see now it isn't over rated but it seems to be over driven lol. wish i had found this first i would have saved 6 bucks.
Hi man, how do you connect your oscilloscope to the amplifier ? I see that you use a resistor. Where does exactly do you conect the oscilloscope? And do you use the resistor in order not to damadge you oscilloscope? Thank you
I connect the resistor across the output and connect the scope probes across the resistor. It is important to be sure the signal source and power supply are not grounded or the ground of the scope probe can short the amplifier output.
@@JohnAudioTech Thanks man.
@@JohnAudioTech Hi it's me again.. At 10:07 of this video i see that you have ground and Line of the oscilloscope connected one on each side of the Resistor, Doesn't that make the current want to go across the Oscilloscope? Do you use a probe with resistor or do you connect it straight to the oscilloscope with normal cables? How much power your oscilloscope can handle? I am buying one the oscilloscope and i'm not sure how to use. Though it says that it can handle (DC voltage (V) 400mV/ 4V/ 40V/ 400V
with accuracy of ±(1%+5). Can it really handle 400v? or do I have to use the probe with resistor to lower that voltage? I have no idea how much voltage comes out of this TPA3116 amps.
Thanks again!!
Do you know where i can find a service manual /schematics for the KLH 100
try emailing the manufacturer, I had luck with some older equipment like yamaha amps. tried googleing my sources and no avail
I will hold off until I find one of these boards that has lower hiss.
I'm planning to use this as a modification to my car's audio system. Im planning to run this mono board with a PEERLESS BY TYMPHANY PLS-P830970 50W 2" Woofer
With a 12v step down variable regulator set to maximum 12v as reading the board specs its maximum output at 12v input is 50w matching the speaker. Obviously I'd never max it as I don't need too. I simply wanna add an aditional mono center speaker to improve the sound stage of the car.
Would you say my thoughts above are correct and am I correct on assuming the audio input is low lever as I plan to run the RCA left and right outputs through a passive RCA stereo to mono convertor then out, cutting off the end of the RCA and terminating into the amp.
Power into 4 ohms with a 12v supply would be around 15 watts before clipping. Input is line level and you may need to adjust its input trimmer to balance the sound.
@@JohnAudioTech input trimmer to balance the sound. Sorry i dont follow this was simply a thought i had the other day im no expert. So how is this adjusted?
@@JohnAudioTech So in your veiw would this amp work with the speaker combination at 12v or does it require improvement
John what's the maximum current does the tpa3116 withdraw at full load?
Around 4 amps at 24 volts with 4 ohm load from these single channel boards.
@@JohnAudioTech aiyt thanks.... what about for the 2 channels?
How much amp, 12volt charger is needed to ran two 5-6inch 8oms 15wate speakers with the help of pam8610 amplifier?
1amp, but you could use 12v @ 3amp and the chip will only draw what it needs. Needs a heatsink for long life.
Drain-Source On-State Resistance RDS(ON)
VCC = 12V IO = 1A TJ = +25°C
High Side 200 mΩ Low Side 200 Total 400
10W @ 10%THD/Channel Output into a 8Ω Load at 13V
Heat sink is required for high power output.
The PAM8610 is a 10W (per channel) stereo Class-D audio amplifier with DC Volume Control which offers low THD+N (0.1%), low EMI, and good PSRR thus high-quality sound reproduction. The 32 steps DC volume control has a +32dB to -75dB range.
The PAM8610 runs off of a 7V to 15V supply at much higher efficiency than competitors’ ICs.
The PAM8610 only requires very few external components, significantly saving cost and board space.
The PAM8610 is available in a 40pin QFN 6mm*6mm package
10W @ 10%THD/Channel Output into a 8Ω Load at 13V Low Noise: -90dB
Over 90% Efficiency 32 Step DC Volume Control from -75dB to +32dB
With Shutdown/Mute/Fade Function
Over Current , Thermal and Short-Circuit Protection Low THD+N
Low Quiescent Current
Pop Noise Suppression
Small Package Outlines: Thin 40-pin QFN 6mm*6mm Package
Pb-Free Package (RoHS Complaint
MrBrymstond
Thanks sir.
Also do I need a capacitor in the power input? If yes what will be the value of it?
Not if you're using a good switch mode power supply. John is the man, but until he answers you I can help.
MrBrymstond
Thanks.
@@esbro69s reading all that just gave me hope for the internet. Use it to gather knowledge and help teach others! I love it, thanks guys
Please review tpa3116d2.
In particular the 2x100W PBTL TPA3116D2. I have a dozen of these and I'm interested in modifying them to improve hum and also hopefully ADAU1701 DSP-controlled mute when no signal is detected. Available on ebay for around $6. www.banggood.com/2x100W-TPA3116-D2-Dual-Channel-Digital-Audio-Amplifier-Board-12V-24V-For-Arduino-p-1019109.html?cur_warehouse=CN
Good afternoon friends, can someone give me information about the specifications of the electrolytic capacitor? In addition to being 4.7 micro farads, would I need to know what voltage it has to be and how it is soldered to the plate, the positive in the c7 and the negative in the c8? or vice versa ?, thank you very much, greetings.
I am sure the voltage should be at minimum the highest voltage you would use...maybe 24v. For which way around to solder it, i would check pos and negative with a multimeter. Should work ok.
Can u do review of tpa3116d2?
Hello , what's the recommended voltage of the capacitor ?
as it's a "coupling" cap, so you can get away with a 16v rating
condestaro how 63v ?
hiss from cell phone in standby
Song name : 9.40
54 watt per channel right?
Low compression:(
Спвсибо!
With 90%efficiency you can get 152w at 4ohm load. *SIR*
Test 2ohms?
Clara Peller
What?! Just 54,76w! '-'
can you wire it to mono?
It is already wired to mono I believe they use the term BTL?
How is your cat?
Snickers is doing fine. He recently turned 12 years old.
JohnAudioTech
Happy birthday to Snickers.
+JohnAudioTech Glad to hear, not surprising cats get a whole lot older than dogs when well-cared for like Snickers. 😤
which volt i can use??? for best sound.. 12/18/20/24 volt?? plz ans me...
Any of them but for best results some where between 19 and 24v should be fine
te amo
hola , perdon la molestia, me podrias decir de q voltaje tiene q ser este capacitor? gracias y saludos.
@@luval2985 yo uso 50v, pero supongo que con 25v debería andar igual de bien
@@elrengofa muchisimas gracias Facundo, abrazo
Is this what nerds do
Учите руский нихера не понятно
What do You use for High pass on tweeter?