DEBUNKING pad priming, with SCIENCE!
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- "Why don't you prime your pads before polishing?" It's a question we've been asked numerous times over the years, and now we finally have an answer backed by scientific data! Todd Cooperider shows why we don't prime pads in our busy detailing studios and debunks pad priming.
Products Used:
Rupes LHR15 Polisher: www.esotericca...
Meguiar's Microfiber Cutting Disk: www.esotericca...
Jescar Correcting Compound: www.esotericca...
Edgeless 350 Microfiber Towel: www.esotericca...
Rupes Pen Light: www.esotericca...
Rhopoint DOI Meter: www.esotericca...
ESOTERIC Products
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#padpriming #esotericdetail #DIYdetailing
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I always found it interesting that you'd hear "less is more" with most detailing products but then with polishing you'd hear "prime the pad" - great video!
Thank you, and great observation!
Thanks for finally putting some numbers behind this theory! I have experienced that priming was not necessary for everything. In fact I stopped doing it a long time ago when I tested it myself and found no difference, other than using to much product. I always emphasize that the variables in detailing are so numerous, one CAN NOT simply use one product, one tool, one method, one technique. It’s up to each detailer to find what works for them through experimentation. That’s what I did…that’s what I teach others.
Awesome info Todd!!
Thank you Todd, for being the voice of true detailing!
Thanks...much appreciated!
I can confirm that priming is a waste of time and product. Someone left a wide and long nasty scratch on my car, and I was able to remove it with GREAT results using Rupes Blue Wool Pad with DA Coarse Compund with NO PRIMING. Just three drops and "start the show" just like in this video.
Thanks for providing us with useful videos that helps us save both time and money.
Thanks for the real-world feedback! It's simply a matter of trying for yourself. If all things are equal, and proper techniques are used, you shouldn't gain any benefit from priming.
I've been into cars (and of course detailing them) for 40 years. I watch a lot of CZcams videos, read articles, etc. You guys are by far my favorite source for info. I've used many of the products and techniques you've covered and you've helped to improve my abilities. Thanks for all the great content!
When you said no need to prime your pads, I believed you. Good to see some science thought. 👍🏻
Thank you!
@@Esotericdetail does this go for every pad? Medium to light cutting?
I’ve had this debate at the shop for some time. I’m the guy who doesn’t prime for these reasons as well as level of effort and waste of money. Another words, IMO, you actually spend more time cleaning your pad because it’s loaded with polish thereby reducing the working time and it wastes an inordinate amount of product reapplying. Add to it the time it then takes to remove that add product, either by wiping so you see your effectiveness of that stage or moving on the next stage of polishing and repeating the same madness. I think it’s a huge waste of time to prime when you add of those extra wipes. Thank you again Todd for an awesome example backed by solid metric.
the extra wiping on soft paint strikes me as a huge negative as well.
Well said...
This is truly awesome stuff! Saw you use 3 pea sized droplets on a video 6 years ago and instantly became glued to this channel. I’m so grateful for all the knowledge you’ve shared over the years with these videos. My mind is blown by your generosity! Following your content alone has improved my skill set as a detailer. As far as I’m concerned the Elite detailing academy is the only way to go from cleaning cars to detailing cars!
Thank you as always!!
Excellent, as always Todd! I can absolutely attest to this on multiple vehicles that in fact, you do not need to prime the pad. Proper methods, tools, and quality products for the win!
Another great video Todd, priming is not something anyone has to do and the same goes for any other thing that is seen as a "MUST DO" in the industry. I am absolutely blown away at the haze levels on both the non primed and primed pads test spots seen at 16:10. Now yes, there are alot of different paints out there. My time with Microfibre which was 2011-2019 before retiring from full time detailing. I rarely got haze and not anything like that most of the time when I did get some haze. but I didn't use the pad at one speed then stop, I blew it out with air after one or two passes to remove the residues of paint and polish and did another pass or two at lower or higher speed with no extra polish or more polish depending on the amount of film on the surface. I believe that not all microfibre pads are created equal so to get great results, people should do their research and testing, nothing beats real world testing, I've done 70,000 hours of research and testing on lots of things since 1993 when I started detailing. I've used Flexipads MF pads from UK with the longer fibres, the Uro Fibre 50/50 which is a superb pad, the Megs pads with the higher concentration of fibres but a shorter fibre, the finishing MF from Buff and Shine and Lake Country and a few other ones lesser known in the US. I like short cycle with MF not medium or long but almost never did I do it using just using one machine speed, my preference, it doesn't have to be done. Each brings something different to the paint. Keep shooting those awesome videos, your a great authority in detailing, it is so needed in these modern times. PS it's been years since we spoke, I might pick up the phone one of these days and say G'day.Sorry for the long winded comment
One of my first questions would be is does the choice of pad material play a role in in that? As in I'm working with a wool pad or a foam pad. There is also the "is this a new uncured paint job or and older cured paint job "factor. If I'm going to mar fresh paint it is with a dry foam pad, and also with a dry wool pad but not as easily. One thing I would recommend to anyone buffing is to get a buffer that shows you the rpms so you can work at the proper speed rating of the compound. Buffing is really an underrated skill, as it is way more complex than what one would think. All things the same as far as age and cure of paint, what is it on? A steel body panel, a urethane bumper, or a fiberglass part are going to deal with heat generation differently. I think a lot of the loading the pad has to do with being on the safe side of buffing with people that have no experience, as wasting some compound is a lot cheaper than a repaint in a worst-case scenario.
I came to the same conclusion after a few trials. It is now part of my initial test panel testing. Great to see high quality data on the subject. Great work Todd!
Thank you!
I have been polishing for 20 years and I never bought into the hype of priming pads. I found its a waist of time, not only the time spent priming the pad but the time spent wiping down and finish polishing. Basically the same results the 4k meter proved.
Fallen in the pad priming trap myself thank you for debunking that myth🙏.
Thanks for watching!
So glad you finally came out with this video! I hope those silly detailers with millions of views see this and come to there senses. Science doesn’t lie!
At our shop we follow pretty much everything you teach. It has made our jobs easier and less confusing. Thanks for simplifying EVERYTHING
Thank you!
Todd, spot on! When you are using high quality product and pads there is no reason to prime. Rupes training has been staying detailers use WAY to much product.
They've also been using way more than this. The whole "four compass lines"
I never found priming pads to work better for me. If its a brand new pad out of the packaging i put it on the machine and spin it at a medium speed while putting a cleaning brush lightly against it to get any loose fabric off. Thats all i do
Using jescar correcting compound makes a difference here also. I’m not interested in any product that requires a mow down, priming, or supplemental wetting agent.
Totally agree. If I'm not using the Optimum system, It's Jescar. Correction Compound, Medium Polish, Micro Polish, All In One, Power Lock +, and Ceramic Spray Wax have become my go to line in the universal sense.
I also find that the products said to "need" priming work better without priming.
Indeed. Keep it simple. If something requires a convoluted process, then it's time to change your product!
Thanks for putting this out there Todd. I must admit, I now regret spending all that time working that polish in and making sure every fiber is covered... next order of business is to debunk the "directional" polishing by Mr. Jason Rose, where you should follow the flow of the body lines and polish accordingly. I laughed so hard when I saw this ... just thought to myself now this is a classic example of someone just trying to elevate something simple into something magical.
It is nice to see proof by testing and putting numbers together. I just don’t understand companies like Rupes, they emphasize in priming pads before starting, I just don’t understand why. Thanks for the video!
One, theoretic, aspect of priming the pad is that the pad glides better on the surface but in this case microfiber will grab and hold compound from the surface so yeah, priming isn't necessary and in the case of wool and foam pads they will pick up compound from the surface once it's spread. Finishing is easier, correction liquid isn't wasted, it's all good. Yeah, the producer wants you to consume much more but that it's just marketing. I've just seen this video and I'm learning from this, thanks 👍
Thanks for the Quantitative Data!👍
Wished you had Graphed the data as it makes for an easier comparison of the 2 variables!
Excel makes it So easy to create graphs once you have the data tables!
Mike in San Diego.🌞🎸🚀🖖
Great presentation, Todd.
I have primed my pads when using the Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction System. I have tried it with other products, and like you - didn't see any benefit. Just a messy waste of time.
Thanks, and glad you discovered the same results as we did.
Fantastic video! I love the guys at Rupes but they could learn a thing or two from this since they seem to be pro priming, though perhaps a wool pad requires a slightly different technique.
There’s a great but currently little known detailing channel called ‘V-Project UK’ who done a similar video to this last year! I’m sure they won’t be relatively unknown for too much longer. Similar results and recommendations! I’m sure they showcased a wool pad too that didn’t require priming either. The channel is worth a watch and subscribing to.
We find the same results are gained when using wool (and foam) pads. Thank you!
When I first purchased then new Rupes liquids, and wool pads, I initially tried their priming process.
There was a lot of splatter, and dust.
I tried again with four small drops, and the difference was night and day. No splatter, almost no dust, easy wipe off, tremendous cut. I can reload with one or two drops.
With their original microfiber pads (which I stop have a ton of), I start with eight super small drops, and reload with three.
Wow that was awesome, the amount of product wasted by priming pads. Also the work cleaning the marring up.
One day I thought to myself, this seems like waste of product. So tried without priming and noticed less hazing when correcting and the wipe off was much easier since product wasn't slathered all over the paint. Thanks for making this video. Your going to get kicked out of the club now ha.
Glad you came to the same conclusions on your own. And as for "clubs", well, we do our own thing and only focus on what works best for our customers and our efficiencies.
@@Esotericdetail same here!
I think Too much compound delays the actual workthe abrasives does on the paint which explains the haze.
Mathematics doesn't lie, this is fantastic information.
Thank you, and we must agree with that statement.
If Todd and his team confirm anything regarding detailing then it is simply a fact and unquestionable.
Thanks again for the very informative input!
Greetings from distant Belgium.
Straight to the point and great information as always. Keep them coming. Switched to your system a few months back after years of doing it my way and getting great results. Thank you.
Thank you for the positive feedback!
THANK YOU TODD, Enjoy see you explain the logic nobody does a better job than a master
Thank you kindly.
DA are naturally incline to self prime their pads, even more when you slide the pad on the surface before turning the machine on. Still microfiber is a lot more aggressive and tend to heat the paint much more. So priming in my opinion is more a lubrification instead of the cutting readiness. It would be interesting on a panel with different sanding grains and see difference. When cutting real deep scratch micro marring is not my first priority, even more with a microfiber pad
Even with MF pads (which we use for compounding almost exclusively), heating is a non-issue unless you're using a combination of too much pressure, too high a machine speed, and too slow an arm speed.
Great video, good to see some actual data and facts and not just assumptions to back up your theory 👍
Thank you. With a topic like this, you simply can't go with subjectivity alone!
Great way to debunk the old ways. I was wondering does it make difference if you were using a foam or wool pad ? Reminds of why the daughter asked her mother and grandmother cooking a meatloaf for a family gathering and asked her mom why we cut the ends off before cooking and grandma said her pan was too short.
Thank you. As I stated in the video, there might be "some" pads or polishes out there that could potentially work better with a priming, but we have yet to experience that ourselves. Microfiber, wool, or foam...we do it the same way.
Wow !! Mine blowing that you don’t have to prime a compound pad. I’ve been priming a compound pad since day one.
Thank you, Todd! Great video (as always), with the science to prove it. Even though I am a DIYer, time and money is still important to me.
Brian(the general manager and director of Rupes academy) with many,many years of experience behind him teach to prime…now I don’t know maybe there is a sell pitch behind it but…I feel he is sincere after some correction experience and try myself both methods I feel priming work better for me.
Another superb video, Todd. You've just saved me some product cost with science.
I've listened to this debate for years. The thing I never understood is, isn't your pad essentially "primed" after your first section? So unless you are changing your pad after every section, aren't you are using a "primed" pad all the time with the exception of the first section you do with a clean pad?
Priming via saturating the pad, and a few drops here and there is a completely different thing...
Thank you…fantastic information. It’s about time someone with a big enough voice put a stop to all the “Bulls..t” doing its rounds of the internet about Detailing.
Ha, very good thing to clear thing to clear up! thx Todd.
Todd Cooperider = GOAT Thank you for this video!
Haha...thank you Ivan!
Good video, Todd. Nice "bonus" content in the last few minutes.
I know this is a couple years old but with microfibre pads - 1 to 3 small drops is all I would ever use and If I was to add product to a pad and cover the fibers with it using my palm, I never add further product on top of that, that creates dust and clogs the pad up. The only difference I saw in this video was 4 drops versus 3 not applying drops, rubbing it in then adding more product like two more drops then going - that's what I consider priming. But I've known of Todd for many years and he's one of the nicest, smartest and best guys in this great industry. MF use very little product as they clog up quick
Great video! There’s a CZcams channel called ‘V-Project UK’ who done a video regarding this with very similar results. Worth a watch also.
Todd,
Do I have to do a panel wipe after polishing?or is there a polish that I could possibly go right to the ceramic coating?any recommendations would be greatly appreciated..I love this channel!peace..I hope this makes sense!
i always wondered about this and this definitely pulls the covers off. Greatly appreciate this information!!
Great video. Now I notice the video is using microfibre pads. Does this still apply to wool and hydro wool pads and foam. I realize that more cut is obtained with wool and microfibre.
As I stated in the video, there might be "some" pads or polishes out there that could potentially work better with a priming, but we have yet to experience that ourselves. Microfiber, wool, or foam...we do it the same way.
@@Esotericdetail hopefully one day the tool you are using will be more affordable for others who aren’t quite as big as your shop. Next up for me is a defelsko thickness gauge.
Hello Todd, fantastic video. Does it matter what type of abrasives (diminishing -non diminishing) the compound contains?
Thank you, and for the most part, no!
If you're only priming the pad on the initial putting of product on the pad I don't see how that would result in excessive use of material. I do a very light priming on my pads first pass after that 3 drops and go🤔👍
For one, you should be using many different pads during a paint correction process, so it adds up quickly. Secondly, since this shows that you gain nothing from it (and even go backwards), then it's a moot point anyways because you don't need it.
Great to know. I’m getting ready to two step my vehicle before I ceramic coat it. It’s my first time using a DA, hope all goes well.
Tod, great info, proven in the video. Many of the comments get to the issue of how these differences disappear after several panels using the same pad. Your replies suggest a fresh pad for every panel, both compounding and polishing. Is that necessary if you have a great pad cleaning process after every pass? I just did my first full paint correction on my truck, and used a Lake Country 4000 to clean my pad, with a cleaning agent in the reservoir, after every pass. Seems that the effect of a “cleaned pad” on the paint was about the same level of work and correction as I continued around the vehicle. When you say to keep using fresh pads, that isn’t all new pads, but washed pads, or you’d lose $$$ buying pads, right?
I don't know what that system is that you're referring to, but can I assume that it uses a wetting agent? If so, you won't have the same results as with swapping out to fresh pads. On foam pads in particular, one of the reasons why we swap them out so often is because as they get saturated and warm, they lose their downward pressure resistance. When this happens, cut and / or finish suffers accordingly. Going through a convoluted cleaning process after every pass is very inefficient, and adds way too much time to the job. And yes, I am referring to swapping out to clean pads each time, not brand new ones.
Im inclined to agree on the data shown by the expensive gloss meter. Another hype busted! Valuable info Sir Tod! Will do my own test as you suggested!
Once you have used the unprimed pad for a few passes, and then added more compound, is it not primed at that point?
Panel prep before coatings... what is best practice? Gyeon recommend dish soap washes before using Prep.
Good information, but I do have a question: let's say you use an unprimed pad, apply 3-4 spots of the compound and do a 2X2 area, then move to another 2X2 area and apply 3-4 more spots of the compound, aren't you then using a primed pad?
I came here to ask the very same question. I suppose it falls in line with his point that it’s a waste of time and product to prime the pad.
This is also why you should not use one pad for the entire vehicle. Work in small sections and change pads as using one pad that gets a lot of spent product will decrease results around the vehicle. It’s not uncommon to use 6-8 pads around a small to midsize car for a single stage polish.
Priming via saturating the pad, and a few drops here and there is a completely different thing...
What about conditioning the pad before use...with pad conditioner or QD spray?
Completely unnecessary in our experience...
I agree 💯 percent! Great video, thanks Todd !Have you tried jescar heavy cut and do you like it? Do you still prefer jescar and sonax perfect finish over rupes Da system? Thanks
We haven't found a combo that we like better than the same one we've been using for some years now...
I feel the same about needing to pick the pad up from the surface before it's fully stopped..as to not mar the paint. Feel that way about spreading product on low and then speeding up to working speed. Feel that way about the blotting of product with the pad on the surface before starting the machine. Feel that ooway about product removal in circles vs straight lines. There are a ton of things like this that become industry Dogma with paint correction. Issue is everyone swears their way is the right way and everyone else is either doing it wrong.
Does it really make any difference as after the first set your pad is primed anyway, so surely the haze will be back after the first set?
Another reason why we recommend swapping out to fresh pads far more frequently than others do!
@@Esotericdetail agree sir
Priming via saturating the pad, and a few drops here and there is a completely different thing. Just run with 3 drops, change your pad out every panel or two, and you'll achieve a high level of results.
Two words- Thank you
And thank you as well.
Finally the Myth is cleared , thanks a lot Colleague !
Thanks my friend...
Maybe tells your friends over at Rupes, they’re always going on about pad priming….
Super interesting, thanks for doing the science!
Right and that is why Ford motor co spent tens of thousands with optimum developing a sprayable polish& compound to prevent dry spots on their pads which was causing marring.
So are you saying that priming IS necessary?
I'd like to see a comparison of cheap cutting compound and more expensive cutting compounds and check them with the DOI meter to see which works better
We have...which is why we use the compounds that we use!!
Most helpful. Thanks.
Great video .After the 3 initial pea drops how much and how often do you follow up with additional product?
I won’t bother priming and see how I go but the pad is only not primed before the first set isn’t it?
Priming via saturating the pad, and a few drops here and there is a completely different thing...
@@Esotericdetail thanks for the info
Guys it's very simple the primed pad is only doing one thing because the pad is one thing went from dry to wet, 3 dot pad has a multi surface to address the surface 😀
Pad priming is a way for paint correction companies to sell more compound
#truth
Coming from a novice in the field: I have the notion that priming (or, rather, using slightly more compound than usual) might be desired when using a thick wool or lambswool pad due to the increased surface area on long-strand pads that will inevitably absorb more compound and leave less on the surface; which, in turn, minimizes lubrication drastically.
That's when actual testing side by side will separate theory from reality.
I think this seemed like an answer looking for data to back it up. You didn't show how you primed the pad and if you blew out the "primed" compound before your test, and you clearly said you originally preferred not to prime it. I'd also assume the pad priming people have done similar tests with their method and found it to be better.
My point isn't to disagree with your results but more to say I wouldn't call one single experiment definitive science.
The methodology of priming doesn't matter...results are the same. Nobody on the "other side" has done these types of tests as they don't go through the investment of tools that give objective results. They promote it because somebody before them said it was the way to do it, so they just regurgitate that information as fact.
Thank you!
You are welcome!
on a panel that has been repainted over the original paint, how do you know how far you can buff it without going through the clear coat?
Get a paint thickness measurer. Measure several spots around the panels then measure the door seal. The difference is the clear coat.
@@NoirSavant this is the averages result, door jamb 76, bonnet 113, front guard 201, front door 235, back door 180, back guard 139, boot 109, roof 104 how far do you know how to go??
Thank you for the info! Valuable
Thanks for doing the testing!
You're welcome, and thank you for watching.
So obviously the more product, the more cutting, correct? Less product, less cutting and better finish? What if you did no product? Would it burn the paint due to lack of lubrication?
No, not correct exactly. This test for instance didn't see any increase in correction with using more product. No product at all would overheat, and you wouldn't have any abrasives to refine the finish.
Can you explain how exactly the pad was primed? I think the definition of a "primed pad" varies from person to person and it would be helpful to understand which process was used for the purpose of this test.
Regardless of what method of priming was used, the outcome is always the same in our testing. For this particular video, all of the fibers were lightly covered in compound.
@@Esotericdetail The reason I ask is because I tested this thoroughly when developing M110 and M210, and found that the specifics of the priming process would play a significant role in the first pass due to the heavier loading. I myself never believed in pad priming and ended up investigating it under controlled settings in order to develop a consistent SOP.
If you load the pad, then proceed to polish the panel straight away then that would explain the extra compound residue you had to remove, as well as the added haze.
But if you complete the priming process before testing it by running it on a separate panel, then blow out the pad, add the few drops of compound and THEN test it on the panel you would get a very different result. More specifically, you would reduce the haze and residue.
If the pad is loaded up but not run and blown out, then it is not primed. That's only part of the process.
-MK
@@MarkusKleis But the fact remains the same...priming is giving no added benefit, and is wasteful of both time and product. I'm also assuming that you didn't do your testing with a DOI meter, which makes it all subjective. The other thing to consider is processes that are scalable for growing businesses. Extra and unnecessary processes are not something you would want to have a lot of detailers trying to mess with...particularly when it doesn't net any extra results.
@@Esotericdetail Going to have to agree to disagree on this one. My conclusion on this matter is shared by some of the best and most respected names and brands in the entire industry and the result of countless controlled tests (including blind tests). I also find it quite odd for you to assume that Meguiar's would develop finishing compounds and polishes without the use of scientific equipment to validate their findings - of course they do.
Also not sure what is with change of topics regarding business scalability of pad priming, which is a different topic and would require additional testing (which wasn't part of your test). The question was whether or not there is a benefit to priming a pad - which your test doesn't answer because the pad priming process was never completed before measuring the results.
If you perform a test spot without priming a pad, the results you will see will not reflect what you would experience after just 2-3 more rounds of adding more product. This is why it is essential to properly prime a pad and evaluate it accordingly - that is the only way to get a true read on what you should expect to see once the pad is saturated.
THIS is the point of priming a pad - it allows you to get an accurate read of what the repeatable results will be once you start working the panel beyond the first pass. It also ensure that if you swap pads in the middle of the vehicle that you will immediately be able to replicate the results you have been achieving thus far. You cannot get an accurate read if you just add a couple of drops and start going at it. It will actually take more time, not less to figure out if the combo is working without priming the pad.
@@MarkusKleis We have worked very closely with many of these manufacturers over the years on pre-production development teams, product development projects, etc, including OEM car manufacturers and paint manufacturers. So yes, we do know how these testings go. We saved one very prominent manufacturer perhaps hundreds of thousands of dollars by proving that the polish they were about to release was filling...the polish that was signed off by many of these same detailers you speak of.
The point here is really simple...priming was a way to make compound x work 12+ years ago, and people just carried on that same thought process and promoted it as "fact". To make blanket statements that priming, spraying with water, and all of these other unnecessarily convoluted processes are required is irresponsible. I too fell into that trap in the early days, then thought on my own, invested in testing equipment, and developed processes that are easily replicated by DIY detailers and professionals alike.
And speaking of ease of replicating, and reduction of processes and variables, the scalability discussion goes hand in hand. If somebody has a lifestyle business where they're the only worker, they do no PPF or tint, and they're fine with limiting their income, then convoluted processes won't mean much to them. They might as well then go with coatings that require 4-5 layers with many hours in-between. But when those people wish to actually grow a business, they quickly find out what matters, and what doesn't. They also find out limitations based off of their surroundings. Blowing out pads in the same facility where you're applying PPF or tint? Good luck with that. And when they quit doing that, they find out that they achieve just as good of results, in less time, with less product being used.
If you choose to prime your pads, then so be it. But the simple facts that we have found over the years, at least when working with great products, is that it is an unnecessary process in our business, as well as the businesses of many hundreds of students that have attended our Academy, as well as OEM car manufacturer paint shops we have consulted with.
Would these test results also apply to wool and microfiber pads?
Well, this test was done on microfiber pads! And in our experience, we never prime our wool pads, either.
Thanks Todd great video..👌
So what is the number 1 reason you get haze after cutting? Is it from using an excessive amount of product?
Yes...too much product that doesn't completely break down.
@@Esotericdetail thanks!
Very interesting. I wonder if other types of pads - like foam specifically - would generate similar results.
I stated that in the video. We don't prime foam pads either when doing finishing or one-step polishing.
I have attended numerous training events at Meguiar’s HQ in Irvine, CA...they prime a MF pad very differently than you didn’t in this example. They prime the pad all the way to the edge and make sure all the fibers are coated in polish.
In my experience, the first section done when using a freshly primed pad, will always be hazy. Clean the pad by spinning against a brush or a quick blow out...add a small amount of polish and do the next section....this is what the pad will produce on the next several panels.
All this being said...I don’t think priming is a big deal, one way or the other.
I've tried it all ways, and always found it made no difference.
I wonder if there is a heat generation difference?
Fantastic video!!!! Thank you!!!
Thank you as well!
When you move to the next section of the panel, aren't both pads "primed"? I guess the difference is diminishing unless you use a fresh pad for each section
For the most part, we do use fresh pads each section.
Any reason you didn’t use a panel wipe product? Would the amount of fillers (no product containers zero filling properties) not have an impact on the haze?
I did...it's in the video!!
@@Esotericdetail my bad. Must have missed it!
I think this will save us a lot of compound
Todd, would you now say pads don't need to be primed even when using M105?
When I was still using 105, I went away from priming and never felt that I was missing anything. Simply try a section with, and one without to see what works best for you and your techniques.
But isn’t the pad primed after a few cycles anyway ? Do you therefore need to change the pad every panel .
It depends on the process you're doing. When finish polishing, particularly on really soft paint, we always recommend swapping pads after every panel. Having said that though, it's not just because the pad gets loaded up...it's a variety of reasons.
You can’t argue with results, but unless you’re using a new pad with every section your pad is getting saturated after a pass even with blowing or brushing out, so I would think that slight priming on a fresh pad to make everything uniform just not over priming would be your best bet. That’s just my theory, you guys have clearly been doing this a lot longer than me lol.
But the pad is not getting saturated after just a pass. Saturating a pad through priming, and the amount of product that gets built up from a few drops are two completely different things. The results, and many sessions evaluating with a DOI meter says that just roll with 3 drops and swap out your pad for a fresh one every panel or so for best results.
Hello, dont know if the same q has been asked before so apologies for that. Is that the same for wool pads on the DA?
In our experience it is the same...
Your the man. Thank you.
Glad to help
Awesome video
Love this geeky info 👌
Yeah, us too!
Do you find that this is true for rupes da system also? I only ask because they specifically say you need to prime. I think this could just be bs but I’d like to hear your experience before I mess my paint up😊
You're not going to mess up your paint. Try it for yourself...do a few test sections with priming, and a few without to see what you think.
@@Esotericdetail I just finished polishing my first car and I definitely worried a lot less about priming. It turned out great
Great video! Fantastic
Thank you!
Hi thank you so much for sharing information. I just wanted know what you guys think because I am an amateur. I use m105 and m205, they are outdated and there are better alternatives out there but at the moment I have a gallon worth of them so I will have to make them work for now. I also use the 105 with a microfiber pad. Do you think I should prime the pad just because it's an old school product? I believe the people from Meguiar's recommend priming? I use their microfiber cutting pad and I heard that the fibers grab onto the compound really well and the product does not get spread around effectively without priming. Is this something that is irrelevamt?
I also noticed that without priming the compound seem to be stuck only on the area where I applied the pea sized drops. Any advice for making these products work until I can consume all of it and get better abrasivd technology.
Back in the day with those products, we would prime, but we also didn't have the machine technology that we have today. If I were to use them today, I wouldn't prime the pads...
@@Esotericdetail is the machine technology you mean the long throw orbitals? I use a 15mm throw DA, do you think priming is necessary?
@@dominicalfafara3375 That's what I'm using in this video, and what we use every single day. Priming not necessary...
@@Esotericdetail Thanks a lot for the help and the good content. I wish you guys could make a more detailed video about the difference between old technology and new technology