Thanks for the video. Saved me a lot of time, cut knuckles and switching between reading glasses and distance glasses figuring this out! If you crank on the height adjustment hard enough, the plate that those bolts are screwed into can bend, too. I agree with most other posts - I really do like this saw. I put in a Bosch router plate & router on the right side (when facing the feed side of the saw) and it gives me a very nice mobile station for both tasks. Thanks, again!
😅I’m looking at my saw now. I don’t even have that bolt installed. I don’t know if it fell out or never came. I will say I’m having issues with larger sheet goods binding. I thought it was blade nope new blade put in but I think the knife is shifting without that bolt installed. thanks for the video
Thanks for diagnosing this problem, incredibly annoying to retighten the belt every so often. When retightening, I broke that bolt in place and have to take it apart to fix it. Do you have a video on how to disassemble?
Nice video. Considering this saw even with its flaws because it's the best option for my budget at my location. Have you had issue with the fence or table top being not flat?
My table is flat. The fence is a giant upgrade over my old portable saw. I've read reviews and apparently this fence is sub-par, but I'm careful to ensure the fence is not askew before I lock it, and I haven't had any issues with it.
Great video. I just came across the same problem today and found the same root-cause as you did (the bolt binding). I was also planning to leave the bolt out, but concerned that the unsupported riving knife may shift and bind some day (or something worse might happen). Anyway, I like your suggestion about tapping the metal plate. Did you ever end up doing that? If so, did you tap it in place or did you need to remove the bracket?
I chose to leave the bolt out and haven't had any issues, and have put many hours on the saw since. I have the knife support adjusted nice and snug around the arbor shaft, and with the lower slot adjusted and in place, the knife has lots of support. That said, if I were to tap the plate I'd probably remove it from the saw so I'd have room to work. I'd worry that I wouldn't get the tapped hole nice and square otherwise. Good luck!
I’m probably over-thinking this, but I decided to open up the slot using a small Drummel size cutting bit. It took quite a lot of grinding but eventually opened it up and eliminated the interference. I also took a chance and tapped a 1/4-20 thread (eyeballing the perpendicularity). I lucked out and the new bolt sweeps the whole span without interfering. Since the original hole was for M6 clearance, the 1/4-20 tap did not result much thread engagement and could easily strip if torqued too much… so avoid stripping I locked the bolt (with light torque) and then epoxied the hex head against the sheet metal so it would not back out. I if ever need to remove the bolt I could always heat the epoxy to remove. Lastly I reinstalled the washer on the other side but left clearance between washer and casting to avoid binding.
Any idea what might be wrong if the bolt if off, the bottom channel is off and it still won't come up? I checked both the arms that ride in the channel and they are free but the blade won't come up.
It might be binding on that bottom cnannel if you have the steel slide completely off. The steel slide is needed for smooth movement of the riving knife. Or it might be the connection of the riving knife mechanism to the arbor itself, right around the arbor bearing. I didn't show in the video, but there are adjustment screws there that can be loosened to make the riving knife mechanism pivot easier - mine was pretty tight.
@@BWorks forgot to reply here. The issue in mine was different. The motor arm / arbor was rubbing against the connecting plate between arbor and the riving knife. Physically pulling the motor out away from the arm and moving it, finally sanding down the arm is what helped. This saw has pretty terrible design for blade movement.
Thanks for the video. Saved me a lot of time, cut knuckles and switching between reading glasses and distance glasses figuring this out! If you crank on the height adjustment hard enough, the plate that those bolts are screwed into can bend, too.
I agree with most other posts - I really do like this saw. I put in a Bosch router plate & router on the right side (when facing the feed side of the saw) and it gives me a very nice mobile station for both tasks. Thanks, again!
Good video thanks, I had the same problem and I resolved it by tapping the hole for a bigger bolt and I put a brass bushing as-well.
😅I’m looking at my saw now. I don’t even have that bolt installed. I don’t know if it fell out or never came. I will say I’m having issues with larger sheet goods binding. I thought it was blade nope new blade put in but I think the knife is shifting without that bolt installed. thanks for the video
Thanks for the explanation. I have incurred the same problem twice now and it is a haste. However, your insight definitely helps.
Thanks! Good explanations.
Yo! I really appreciate your help on this. I fixed my saw as this was a problem. I need a hole, not a drill. Haha!
Thanks for diagnosing this problem, incredibly annoying to retighten the belt every so often. When retightening, I broke that bolt in place and have to take it apart to fix it. Do you have a video on how to disassemble?
Sorry I don't have a video like that. I'm sure there are parts diagrams out there that could be helpful... good luck!
Don’t fix it. Take the pos back. It’s a garbage saw made by a garbage company with a garbage support line.
Nice video. Considering this saw even with its flaws because it's the best option for my budget at my location. Have you had issue with the fence or table top being not flat?
My table is flat. The fence is a giant upgrade over my old portable saw. I've read reviews and apparently this fence is sub-par, but I'm careful to ensure the fence is not askew before I lock it, and I haven't had any issues with it.
Great video. I just came across the same problem today and found the same root-cause as you did (the bolt binding). I was also planning to leave the bolt out, but concerned that the unsupported riving knife may shift and bind some day (or something worse might happen). Anyway, I like your suggestion about tapping the metal plate. Did you ever end up doing that? If so, did you tap it in place or did you need to remove the bracket?
I chose to leave the bolt out and haven't had any issues, and have put many hours on the saw since. I have the knife support adjusted nice and snug around the arbor shaft, and with the lower slot adjusted and in place, the knife has lots of support. That said, if I were to tap the plate I'd probably remove it from the saw so I'd have room to work. I'd worry that I wouldn't get the tapped hole nice and square otherwise. Good luck!
I’m probably over-thinking this, but I decided to open up the slot using a small Drummel size cutting bit. It took quite a lot of grinding but eventually opened it up and eliminated the interference. I also took a chance and tapped a 1/4-20 thread (eyeballing the perpendicularity). I lucked out and the new bolt sweeps the whole span without interfering. Since the original hole was for M6 clearance, the 1/4-20 tap did not result much thread engagement and could easily strip if torqued too much… so avoid stripping I locked the bolt (with light torque) and then epoxied the hex head against the sheet metal so it would not back out. I if ever need to remove the bolt I could always heat the epoxy to remove. Lastly I reinstalled the washer on the other side but left clearance between washer and casting to avoid binding.
Excellent Video, a question would you recommend buying a machine like the R4512? and the motor goes with belt or strap???
My understanding is that the r4512 has similar issues to the newer r4520, but I'm not certain.
I have had the 4512 model for several years and have not experienced this issue at all?
Had the exact same issue with my R4520, do you have an issue with the riving knife locking lever being really stiff as well?
It is stiff, but it hasn't caused me problems yet. It looks like it could be adjusted.
Yes I do
Damn riving knifes
Any idea what might be wrong if the bolt if off, the bottom channel is off and it still won't come up? I checked both the arms that ride in the channel and they are free but the blade won't come up.
It might be binding on that bottom cnannel if you have the steel slide completely off. The steel slide is needed for smooth movement of the riving knife. Or it might be the connection of the riving knife mechanism to the arbor itself, right around the arbor bearing. I didn't show in the video, but there are adjustment screws there that can be loosened to make the riving knife mechanism pivot easier - mine was pretty tight.
@@BWorks forgot to reply here. The issue in mine was different. The motor arm / arbor was rubbing against the connecting plate between arbor and the riving knife. Physically pulling the motor out away from the arm and moving it, finally sanding down the arm is what helped. This saw has pretty terrible design for blade movement.
That bottom channel bracket just bends out it pisses me off and my saw is past the warranty. 😡😡😡😥
Ridgid makes crap tablesaws