Hi, Colin. The best thing to do would be to try and heat up the all the BGAs with a hot air gun on the Main AV logic board and see if the Monitor turns on. If it does then one of the BGAs might need re-balling or replacing. Also try to locate the 3.3v because there may be a problem in the emmc(s) chips. The TPS54040 maybe held back from switch on. I can see that the green indicator lights up before the red flashing led which indicates a fault with unit. Normally, dead OLED panels will not allow the unit to power on green for even a second. This Monitor also could have software/firmware trouble. Lastly, Test the control switches on the front panel (vol, menu, etc) that can easily short/break and drag the unit down. Good Luck...
I have replaced a handfull of the panels(OLED + board), because of this error. No one want to pay for this replacement any more, because of the costs. I have a PVM-A170(17” version) that I use for service, it was repaired by replacing the OLED panel. Thank you for the interesting videos, always looking forward for friday afternoon😃.
How sad. Many years ago i used to use a sony pvm2730 as a tv in my living room. It was very repairable and there was an excellent, and inexpensive, service manual.
Wow! Sony really don't want anyone trying to fix their stuff these days. Whereas years ago Sony made their Pro gear very easy to service, shame they've u-turned on that.
Replace the reg if you can - you've already got into it so far. There's every chance like you say that the reg is being commanded into disable elsewhere. The FPGA is obviously working / processing (the FPGA light comes on at "boot" then goes off in "OK", and you've observed a 'normal' level of heat) - whilst some area of the set is in fault condition, the FPGA will have routines in place to deal with "fault" conditions, so it's likely processing fine. Re the -6VDC supply not being produced - an easier / more crude method would be to generate a -6VDC supply relative to ground and inject it (through some current limiting). Suggest starting with a couple of CR2032 in series, with the positive side of the battery to chassis of the display, thus giving your -6VDC to inject on the "output" pin on the voltage regulator! I noticed the repair for the LED being lit in this case is to "replace the G2" board... Which is the G2 board? Is that the main OLED controller board or the PSU?
I've had a lot of mental problems from past stress, sorry if i missed your excellent videos. Colin I have to say you don't give up easy :-D I was wondering if those flat brown capacitors near the step up/step down regulators have gone short or low resistance. Laptops are a pain with capacitors going short. Maybe put your meter in low resistance mode and put your probes across each flat capacitor just in case. I know i'm saying the obvious. P.s im not mad lol.
Hi Colin if the cost of the repair exceeds the replacement price then it's a no go. If the cost of the repairs is not the motivation to repair and have a functioning device then go for it. I believe once you answer that question then you can proceed. Cheers
Colin, on the low voltage dc-dc converters (tps54226) you should have checked the SW pins, these are the 1.2v switched outputs ( they go to the big coil next to the ic) The 5.5v is probably just some reference voltage. There could also be a shorted ceramic cap somewhere around the stabilisers, these caps like to short. Could be a lot of things, and in the end it’s probably the bga that’s at fault 👎
From the manual "The screen becomes dark and the unit turns off If the internal temperature of the unit increases, the screen may become dark and the unit may turn off. In this case, refer to Sony qualified service personnel." This is sony's way of saying the temp sensor has kicked in. What they are not saying is it will cause the RED Flashing LED on the front. IC 6205 is the temp sensor on the QBC board. See if you can find it, research the number and try to get the specs for it. Maybe even try shocking it with some freeze spray. Good luck. These monitors are too good to let become waste. If all else fails you can send it to SONY. They used to like to condemn the OLED's right away when the panel was still available as a part. but now that the panels are no longer made, they are more inclined to actually do the repair work if they can.
My guess is that the controller board is OK but the OLED panel is bad - the symptoms you are seeing are the result of the controller board detecting some anomaly during startup and shutting down. Although not officially supported (because the panel calibration data is stored in the controller board at the factory) you can swap over the controller boards between panels and swapping the board onto a good panel is an effective way of telling if the controller board is good. Obviously a "Frankenstein" unit assembled from a good panel from one unit and a good controller board from another won't meet the specs for the monitor because of the mismatched calibration data in the control board, but IMO it still looks fine.
you have to disconnect the panel from the board and test again some times the backlight comes on thats in dicates fault with the panel driver boards somes times ceramic caps short out you have to test drivers boards for shorts to find the shorted cap
i found your video because i have an a250 that has the blinking red led on power up. was hoping to see if i could fix it. im in LA but if i cant get it to "fix itself" lol id likely part with it. if you see this, let me know if you're interested in it.
Check the service information around which internal LEDs are lit. That may help to narrow down the problem. If it's just the power supply, it could be fixable by swapping the power supply panel from a scrap one.
Does it try a fan test first? Some Panasonic camcorders will not power up if fan rotation test fails, bit of a long shot I know! Great video by the way.
I meant are the fan blades free to rotate and not seized. According to the service manual the system control checks for rotation at power on. Good luck anyhow, I always look forward to your videos
It’s not hard to replace, you use a hot air station which is very easy if you know how. Why don’t you just call yourself a man who likes to tinker with stuff ? Because this is what I mean you do a lot of guess work like you said I think these are regulators? Well if know your electronics you would know if they are by using maths to work a lot of stuff out. Electronics is maths and by using this is how we work out. Also where is scope ? The main tool that should be on the job. That’s how you see signals and waveforms. I do hope you get it going but I’m sorry you know nothing about electronics because of guess work and professional do not act like this at all. I will say a lot of tvs today are rubbish to repair and sometimes it can be a firmware flash you have to do on them and can be easy as that so much stuff today I repair is software rubbish causing the root of the problem. The amount of laptops I get come in that don’t work are just firmware ic gone bad and needs replacing and flash. Sony stuff today is rubbish like most stuff is. The days of good makes have gone now. Shame years ago makes was about quality.
You do know there's no service manual for this panel don't you? Did you actually watch the video? How would an oscilloscope help when there are no diagrams? I've already gone way deeper than most people would on this. Yes I could (and may yet) replace the regulator, but I have serious doubts that it's the cause of this failure.
@@video99couk look for test points, you don’t need a service manual you can work out the circuit. That’s why I was saying there a lot of maths to this. Because at the end of the day that is what electronics is and yes it can get complicated. Also I agree with you tvs today are rubbish in repairing I know because I see to many of them coming to me and 80% are just made to go wrong and bin.
@@video99couk sorry I forgot to say I just had a look though some of my stuff and I have a service manual to this tv. I just looked at it and it’s a first edition and don’t know if it’s any good for you ? It don’t look very in depth to me but I only had a Quick Look.
@@video99couk I just had a better look at the service manual and it does tell you a lot about voltages and points on the board and led flash meaning, etc. so there seems to be some details to fault finder here. So i can upload it if you got a email address to send it too. Can send it in PDF but like I said you need to look at it and see if it’s any good to you.
"Why don’t you just call yourself a man who likes to tinker with stuff ?" Possibly because _he is_ actually a very well-qualified Electronics Engineer with considerable professional experience; albeit in a different area to what he does now. - The 'tinkering' is part and parcel of the skillset necessary to run the business he does which relies on keeping obsolete equipment going. - Colin is a little too inclined to hide his light under the proverbial bushel IMHO.
Hi, Colin. The best thing to do would be to try and heat up the all the BGAs with a hot air gun on the Main AV logic board and see if the Monitor turns on. If it does then one of the BGAs might need re-balling or replacing. Also try to locate the 3.3v because there may be a problem in the emmc(s) chips. The TPS54040 maybe held back from switch on. I can see that the green indicator lights up before the red flashing led which indicates a fault with unit. Normally, dead OLED panels will not allow the unit to power on green for even a second. This Monitor also could have software/firmware trouble. Lastly, Test the control switches on the front panel (vol, menu, etc) that can easily short/break and drag the unit down.
Good Luck...
I have replaced a handfull of the panels(OLED + board), because of this error. No one want to pay for this replacement any more, because of the costs. I have a PVM-A170(17” version) that I use for service, it was repaired by replacing the OLED panel. Thank you for the interesting videos, always looking forward for friday afternoon😃.
Don't suppose you kept the bad ones did you? They might have useful spares. Do you know if the same red LED lit on the bad panels that I am seeing?
The red power led flashing, usually is because of a bad OLED panel. All panels I replaced was with this same fault.
How sad. Many years ago i used to use a sony pvm2730 as a tv in my living room. It was very repairable and there was an excellent, and inexpensive, service manual.
Yes, replace the chip Colin - worth a go
Another engaging video - I vote replace ♥😊
Wow! Sony really don't want anyone trying to fix their stuff these days. Whereas years ago Sony made their Pro gear very easy to service, shame they've u-turned on that.
Replace the reg if you can - you've already got into it so far. There's every chance like you say that the reg is being commanded into disable elsewhere. The FPGA is obviously working / processing (the FPGA light comes on at "boot" then goes off in "OK", and you've observed a 'normal' level of heat) - whilst some area of the set is in fault condition, the FPGA will have routines in place to deal with "fault" conditions, so it's likely processing fine.
Re the -6VDC supply not being produced - an easier / more crude method would be to generate a -6VDC supply relative to ground and inject it (through some current limiting). Suggest starting with a couple of CR2032 in series, with the positive side of the battery to chassis of the display, thus giving your -6VDC to inject on the "output" pin on the voltage regulator!
I noticed the repair for the LED being lit in this case is to "replace the G2" board... Which is the G2 board? Is that the main OLED controller board or the PSU?
I've had a lot of mental problems from past stress, sorry if i missed your excellent videos.
Colin I have to say you don't give up easy :-D
I was wondering if those flat brown capacitors near the step up/step down regulators have gone short or low resistance.
Laptops are a pain with capacitors going short.
Maybe put your meter in low resistance mode and put your probes across each flat capacitor just in case.
I know i'm saying the obvious.
P.s im not mad lol.
Hi Colin if the cost of the repair exceeds the replacement price then it's a no go. If the cost of the repairs is not the motivation to repair and have a functioning device then go for it.
I believe once you answer that question then you can proceed. Cheers
Colin, on the low voltage dc-dc converters (tps54226) you should have checked the SW pins, these are the 1.2v switched outputs ( they go to the big coil next to the ic)
The 5.5v is probably just some reference voltage.
There could also be a shorted ceramic cap somewhere around the stabilisers, these caps like to short.
Could be a lot of things, and in the end it’s probably the bga that’s at fault 👎
From the manual "The screen becomes dark and the unit turns off
If the internal temperature of the unit increases,
the screen may become dark and the unit may turn off.
In this case, refer to Sony qualified service personnel." This is sony's way of saying the temp sensor has kicked in. What they are not saying is it will cause the RED Flashing LED on the front. IC 6205 is the temp sensor on the QBC board. See if you can find it, research the number and try to get the specs for it. Maybe even try shocking it with some freeze spray. Good luck. These monitors are too good to let become waste. If all else fails you can send it to SONY. They used to like to condemn the OLED's right away when the panel was still available as a part. but now that the panels are no longer made, they are more inclined to actually do the repair work if they can.
My guess is that the controller board is OK but the OLED panel is bad - the symptoms you are seeing are the result of the controller board detecting some anomaly during startup and shutting down. Although not officially supported (because the panel calibration data is stored in the controller board at the factory) you can swap over the controller boards between panels and swapping the board onto a good panel is an effective way of telling if the controller board is good.
Obviously a "Frankenstein" unit assembled from a good panel from one unit and a good controller board from another won't meet the specs for the monitor because of the mismatched calibration data in the control board, but IMO it still looks fine.
I agree that's a possibility. If I had a spare controller board, I would certainly swap it over.
you have to disconnect the panel from the board and test again some times the backlight comes on thats in dicates fault with the panel driver boards somes times ceramic caps short out you have to test drivers boards for shorts to find the shorted cap
There is no backlight, this is OLED.
I think you should replace the regulator, just in case....
i found your video because i have an a250 that has the blinking red led on power up. was hoping to see if i could fix it. im in LA but if i cant get it to "fix itself" lol id likely part with it. if you see this, let me know if you're interested in it.
Check the service information around which internal LEDs are lit. That may help to narrow down the problem. If it's just the power supply, it could be fixable by swapping the power supply panel from a scrap one.
Yes ,replace the regulator chip.
yes try to replace it.
Does it try a fan test first? Some Panasonic camcorders will not power up if fan rotation test fails, bit of a long shot I know! Great video by the way.
It might, which is why I did reconnect the fans for testing.
I meant are the fan blades free to rotate and not seized. According to the service manual the system control checks for rotation at power on. Good luck anyhow, I always look forward to your videos
Must be a Professional OLED.
How do you see that?
Because he's not completely covered in glue.
If it’s not expensive, then replace the regulator! I would!
Do replace that IC please. It cannot be very expensive to obtain.
I dare you to replace the regulator!
DEFINITELY replace that chip!
I just might.
Sometimes you get too deep into something and are willing to try anything at that point. LOL.
I wouldn't have gone this deep but for it being interesting on CZcams. The textbook answer is "replace panel" but that's clearly not an option.
It’s not hard to replace, you use a hot air station which is very easy if you know how. Why don’t you just call yourself a man who likes to tinker with stuff ? Because this is what I mean you do a lot of guess work like you said I think these are regulators? Well if know your electronics you would know if they are by using maths to work a lot of stuff out. Electronics is maths and by using this is how we work out. Also where is scope ? The main tool that should be on the job. That’s how you see signals and waveforms. I do hope you get it going but I’m sorry you know nothing about electronics because of guess work and professional do not act like this at all. I will say a lot of tvs today are rubbish to repair and sometimes it can be a firmware flash you have to do on them and can be easy as that so much stuff today I repair is software rubbish causing the root of the problem. The amount of laptops I get come in that don’t work are just firmware ic gone bad and needs replacing and flash. Sony stuff today is rubbish like most stuff is. The days of good makes have gone now. Shame years ago makes was about quality.
You do know there's no service manual for this panel don't you? Did you actually watch the video? How would an oscilloscope help when there are no diagrams? I've already gone way deeper than most people would on this. Yes I could (and may yet) replace the regulator, but I have serious doubts that it's the cause of this failure.
@@video99couk look for test points, you don’t need a service manual you can work out the circuit. That’s why I was saying there a lot of maths to this. Because at the end of the day that is what electronics is and yes it can get complicated. Also I agree with you tvs today are rubbish in repairing I know because I see to many of them coming to me and 80% are just made to go wrong and bin.
@@video99couk sorry I forgot to say I just had a look though some of my stuff and I have a service manual to this tv. I just looked at it and it’s a first edition and don’t know if it’s any good for you ? It don’t look very in depth to me but I only had a Quick Look.
@@video99couk I just had a better look at the service manual and it does tell you a lot about voltages and points on the board and led flash meaning, etc. so there seems to be some details to fault finder here. So i can upload it if you got a email address to send it too. Can send it in PDF but like I said you need to look at it and see if it’s any good to you.
"Why don’t you just call yourself a man who likes to tinker with stuff ?" Possibly because _he is_ actually a very well-qualified Electronics Engineer with considerable professional experience; albeit in a different area to what he does now. - The 'tinkering' is part and parcel of the skillset necessary to run the business he does which relies on keeping obsolete equipment going. - Colin is a little too inclined to hide his light under the proverbial bushel IMHO.