Do you want to squeeze that last bit of performance out of your hifi system? These are my top 5 inexpensive tweaks that will hopefully improve the way your system sounds.
Hello everyone, these are the links for items in my list: 5. Ferrite core (check the diameter of the aperture) www.amazon.co.uk/Dreamtop-Clip-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01MG8GQ1F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Ferrite+cores&qid=1589902212&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzTTZEQkQzUkdWWEFVJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjQ3MzgxMjFVS0FBWko1WkdOWSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM0OTczR1ZOQzhMWVFZWFFFJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== 4. Anti-vibration feet (silicon ones work as well as the Sorbothane) www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07MPC5HM3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A19VGPGME3DXWF&psc=1 www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B079SV39KW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2K5KKYERQOFGB&psc=1 3. Tacima mains conditioner strip www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00UB0G4DQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A2OMTXKFADW0PO&psc=1 2. Parallel mains conditioners www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BGDC61K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1 www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07835J8XF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AUDZDCNEQ3WOO&psc=1 1. DIY mains power lead sets www.mcru.co.uk/product-category/diy-componants/diy-mains-power-lead-sets/
FYI - It appears the Tacima CS947 is a UK only device. Not available in US. Doesn't appear to be an equivalent model either as far as I've been able to tell so far, for any other type of plug in.
I like your channel for no nonsense technical approach. No voodoo cables or other audiophile so called approved products. The AC power filter is something that I used in the past to get rid off junk that is present in AC line, even more present in North America than Europe.
My washing machine's low frequencies are now much tighter and the low mid resonance in the room disappeared with those rubber feet, I can now listen to a full synthetics cycle at 60º C without any ear fatigue. Thank you!
Good tips but reminder sponsor your local hifi shop instead of amazon who don’t pay tax and have no passion about hifi remember support your local hifi shop will make your main brand to survive 👌🏻
Amazon pays tax. Every time I check out I pay state tax on my items. I'd love to support a local HiFi shop, except every time I go in their prices are crazy high. Why would I pay double what I'd pay on Amazon and the bonus is I don't have to drive to the shop and be told they don't have what I want? If they were even close to price on the identical Amazon item i'd buy from them, but they're greedy. Same with buying anything else.
@@chethammer Maybe greedy but not necessarily. As with other products once these big corporations step in they can stock up with massive orders from the manufacturers and get good prices....the little man cant do that. Then also Amazon get political as they did with the Parler site but we wont go there.
At the end of the day I found the best tactic that improved my Hifi system and it really works for me is I go out in the backyard and I dig about a 3 m x 2 m hole and I put my turntable in there along with my speakers and then cover it back up with concrete. I've been doing this for several years now and it's quite literally changed my perception of what's possible with pre-recorded music.
I made all these changes at once. Made a massive difference to clarity and soundstage. Have no idea which of the changes had the biggest difference but am very happy with the result
I took your anti-vibration pad advice one step further and replaced my speakers with two top-ported washing machines. My system has never sounded cleaner.
This is the first video I've ever watched from you and I subscribed right away. Thank you for a sensible explanation of all the stuff I was wondering about!
This is interesting because when I listen to music sometimes my left ear is slightly quieter and I find myself twisting my head so I guess this kind of makes sense if it's just wax build up 🤔
Thank you for a common sense, reasonable approach to taking care of the basics. I am now a subscriber and look forward to checking out your other videos.
Good Morning Taran. Just wanted to thank you for another very informative video. I appreciate your easy-to-understand style. I am learning much and I tried the reduction in vibration for speakers. It worked! To be honest, my enjoyment of music increased after I got my hearing aids so it’s a treat to hear recordings as they were meant to be. Thanks again. Have a good evening!
Sensible audio advice delivered in a measured manner. Have now subscribed. Plan to tackle the mains and anti vibration issues first with my vinyl sourced system. Many thanks for the pointers.
Thanks for the education. In the past, my impression on the power cables conditioner were expensive items. Now I know they are affordable and the local fancy audio shop isn't the only place to buy them! Will watch your video on speakers and interconnect cables. Cheers from Singapore.
Just wanted to say thank you for this vid (and your one on speaker placement). I thought why not? After recently buying new speakers (B&W 603's) and finding the bass dominating (room is 4.2 x 4.8 x 3) I got some Anti Vibration Feet per the link. Boom! Bass no longer unruly and a rock solid improvement. I'll be following your channel! Cheers!
Thank You for your intelligent, scientific insightful down-to-earth common sense commentary that will bring harmony.. I can now enjoy a Mains conditioner I can afford... No more Snake Oil.. you are my friend !!! Blues from Chicago, IL
Great to see Hifi tweaks! Thank you Tarun! I am 70 years young and have experienced VPI Magic Bricks from VPI and Tip Toe component feet invented by the Mod Squad that did help my system sound better. I discovered many tweaks that work from Yamamoto Sound Craft in Japan. They have Cherry and Ebony wood head shells for phono carts. I found their PB-19 beveled pure Ceramic spacer that is 12mm in diameter and 2.2mm high very useful under speakers/componets and on top of glass turntable platters in order to decouple the vinyl record from the felt platter mat. The ceramic spacers reduce static electricity in the vinyl during playback. You might have to adjust tonearm VTA when using the spacers. Rega now has a Ceramic platter for one of it's turntables. All the Best to you! Happy Listening!
Brian at 70 when was the last time you had your hearing checked. Unless you are a medical miracle I can guarantee your hearing is nothing like it used to be. The best tool for Interference is Aluminium foil. You don't need to spend any money. A bit here a bit there.
Thanks for the tips Tarun. I see you're diving fearlessly into the area some find contentious, but I for one agree with your views. In fact, I've been making my own Lapp cables recently to replace the horrible standard cables on some of my vintage gear. This has included fitting IEC sockets to the backplane of amps and also using rhodium plated connection throughout. Only slightly more expensive but less prone to oxidation. Saves on deoxit later. By the way, I agree with Mr Hall's comment and I only connect the shield to the plug end of the cable.
Hi Mark, thank you for your feedback. I just check with David Brook @ MRCU who sells the Belden and Lapp kits. He agrees with you that the cable should just be terminated at one end, the plug end. I will post an update based on this advice.
Thank you for the suggestion of using washing machine supports for speakers on a wooden floor. I was a little sceptical but am trying this today with a pair of KEF 104/2s that stand on granite plinths that are in turn on a well past its best bouncy Victorian wooden floor. Initial impressions are of less congestion in the bass and lower mids; clearer tom and bass drum patterns, maybe slightly improved imagery too, time will tell. Definitely worth trying and if I decide against well at least I can use one pack under the washing machine 😄
You have kind of mentioned the improvements I would expect from decoupling you speakers from a wooden floor. Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences 😉👍
Got a couple of the ferrite cores and put one on each of the negative (-) side of the speaker cables and was very surprised at the loss of background noise I hadn't realized was there. The silence, while not jaw droppingly incredible, it was quite um, audible. Thanks for the tip! Cambridge AXR85, ELAC Debut 2.0 B5.2 Speakers, RT82 Turntable (upgraded acrylic platter), Sony BDP-S590 3D Blu-Ray Disc Player, MD deck and double cassette deck. Thanks again!
very good tarun - you are very good at explaining using simple and direct language, and being sensible, all in a nice down to earth way - more of this is needed in the 'audiophile' world
Hooray! At last a reviewer who understands that spikes COUPLE. It's mind boggling how many times you hear about using spikes to decouple. Spikes don't decouple. Well done.
I've heard of using tennis balls as a low cost alternative to specialised decouplers. Is there any truth to that? I assume they won't be as good as proper decoupling gear, but are they doing anything at all?
Good advice! In my past hifi systems I had fairly decent equipment with components such as Linn Sondek/Ittok/K9, Naim Nait (early model) and AE floor standing speakers etc. However my more modest current setup which uses a decent spec PC (for streaming and CZcams, etc), Marantz PM6006 amp and Elac B6.2 speakers and has a far better quality sound with is far more engaging and enjoyable to listen to. The big difference between the two systems is the fact that I use some of the tweaks you mentioned in my current system, whereas in the past, although I had better components, all the cabling was the basic stuff that came with the components, apart from using thicker speaker cables. When I first became interested in hifi audio, interconnects were never talked about only components and how they measured. The current trend that places more emphasis on decent cabling is a relatively recent development and is to be welcomed as it encourages the audio enthusiast to pay more attention to addressing these important details in order to extract the maximum performance from what they already own rather than simply upgrading components in their search of a better quality sound.
You are quite right. For example interconnect between your source and amplifier can have a profound effect and it is worth spending time and a little money experimenting.
@@marvellousmusic4336 It's not. But in the past the emphasis was on different aspects of a system being more important. There are trends in hifi as in other areas of activity.
@@mgsee I wouldn't say that your current system sounds better than a Linn Sondek with ittok arm. The weak link in that system was the K9, it deserved a better cartridge for example a moving coil of higher quality. The output on a streamer is probably louder but not better. Some don't agree that expensive cables make a difference, if you buy good quality that are similar there is no difference. There was a man on hifi forums who used tell people he could make cable from maplins that will be as good, I did not believe him at the time but he was right. Since then I know a scientists who tells me the same. Nobody seems to agree and would rather throw money away on premium silly prices.
Love to hear this practical and truthful advice from someone who has the funds to spend a lot but is wise enough to use something that works and avoids "snake oil" so that money can be put to best use!!!
Extremely concise well presented and knowledgable presentation. I can see why your subscribers are growing. This is deffo the best cheap way to get into tweaks. I’d say you’d get 40 percent of what the more expensive solutions provide and I’ve tried most of them bar the washing machine pucks which I’m going to have to play around with as right now I can’t afford the iso acoustics ones under my speakers. I used to be an anti expensive tweaker and anti expensive cable guy but I ended up demoing a lot of still points and Entreq cabling and it showed me that it wasn’t snake oil.. Although I’ve easily spent a component level amount on my cables and isolaters in my system I would say the accumulative effect far outweighs any component upgrade of the same price. In fact component upgrades have sometimes resulted in sideways moves and not always improvements.
Hi Tarun. Some very simple yet useful tweaks here. I tried the Tacima power strip. The anti-vibration appliance pads repaced the spikes on my speaker stands and, together with rubber door stops de-coupling the speakers from the stands, have all had a remarkable result. Tighter bass, better imaging and vastly improved width and depth in soundstage have been achieved with these inexpensive mods. Who'd have thunk it? Thanks a lot. Solutions don't have to be complicated eh? By the way, I also have zero options for speaker positioning (wall proximity) so got a pair of foam bungs for the L/F ports which has dramatically reduced room boom.
Nice video! I was expecting to have to suggest sorbathane feet, but you had it covered of course! Microphany has a big effect on small signals so isolating signal sources from tiny movements pays big dividends.
Thanks for another great informative video. Your brave going down this route. I use most of the items but the washing machine isolation feet might solve a problem I've had for a long time. Thanks again and please keep them coming.
Another great video from Tarun, thanks for that! Some of these little tweaks I already implemented, and today I've ordered better power cable for my amp as well as power distributor/filter. Price wise I went a bit further that than Tarun recommends, but even if these upgrades will have neglible effect, I as audiophile will be able to sleep better, knowing that I done everything in this area :)
Great video. Congrats. As far as I can see you are a perfectionist, not because of only your audio system but general appearance (the details of your home, painting of the doors etc). prove my observation
The Tacima is an amazing tweak. I had no complaints with my system, no buzz, no hum, even on full volume on pause play. But the Tacima definitely improved the TV picture and brought additional detail in the music. Moving speakers a bit further from the wall helped improve the sound. Much enjoyed this and other videos for the clarity and fluency. No plans to replace my 20+ year old Linn system.
Great sensible approach to Hi Fi. Listening to you for the first time having just bought a Hegel 190 second hand from my own hi Fi dealer. Unpretentious sound advice. Thanks!
I’ve never subscribed on first viewing before, but in this video at least, you talk so much sense that I’m compelled to. I look forward to many more. By the way, I use felt pads for equipment isolation - they work really well too.
I have some old Celestion 15 speakers I inherited connected to an old Pioneer SA-500A amplifier. The speakers were on a porcelain tiled floor and the sound want great. I added some felt pads and was very surprised to find the sound much clearer. I need less volume and speech is much better separated. I need to do some more testing but if I'd bought new speakers I would've been as impressed. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I wanna recommend a few good listening cd/albums..Artist Jonny Hammond alum Gears first and second selection, next Artist 3rd Force album vital force selection You gotta be real, I think you will really enjoy these as very good listening music, they are well recorded.. let me know what you think
One of my cost-effective tweaks is drum dampener gel silicon that I double stack and place under each corner of bookshelfs. The bass becomes weightier, more articulate and a bit more "bouncy." I think they are the best decoupler, better than springs (like Nobsound spring) which, in my listening test, softens the bass.
Good advice and great explanations. #6 - I like to use a rack for the electronics so that the power lines get routed horizontally to the sides and then down (using a cable trough or they could also be bundled). This gives space in the middle to run the interconnects and speaker cables with sufficient distance to the power cables to prevent 60 hz. (guessing it would be 50 hz. in Europe ) hum from passing into the interconnects and speaker wires. Having a rack on wheels (some audiophiles may shudder) makes this easier. If you have a lot of gear it is almost essential.
Its's definitely good practice to separate AC and other cables, but if you're running equipment that is close to it's rated power under use (e.g. amplifiers running on full blast), be aware that the power cords are meant to (and sized for) hang freely, suspended in air. In this way, any heat generated in the cord can be dissapated easily, and it's under this assumption that the power rating for the cord is established. Bundling cables together calls for a socalled reduction factor in power rating, to account for both the surface area that's no longer able to dissapate heat but also the influence (heat/magnetic) from the surrounding cables. Likewise, running the cord in a conduit increases the temperature around the cable, as the dissapated heat can no longer escape and thus heats up the surrounding of the cable instead. These factors combined will typically reduce the power rating of a cord or cable by around 30 %, so if your usage approaches the 70 % mark, it's worth being aware of.
For what it's worth, I found the Tacima mains strip made the biggest difference to equipment using wall wart power supplies, but I can offer no guesses why (though I've since improved on that by eliminating all warts). Also, Richer Sounds has them for a good price, and I prefer them over Amazon on ethical grounds.
Some really good and sensible tips - thank you. I have just ordered the rubber washing machine feet to place under my Atacama stands, which are currently on spikes and then placed on 2p coins, going to place the 2p coin inside each of the rubber feet so that the spikes dont go through the rubber moulding.
Isn’t it amazing, I know a chap with a PhD in physics, who did his dissertation on Audio, having spent years at the BBC and produced some excellent valve amps. He loves dispelling all this mumbo jumbo. Companies spend a fortune on R&D and along come snake oil salesmen, that take you all in with carbon suppressors for RF, 3p pieces of plastic sold for £70, and cables rolled on the thighs of virgins around a campfire on a full moon, filled with oxygen free copper... duh! Unless it’s an oxide, it is all oxygen free.
I don't understand, some cables are sold for hundreds of dollars, some even thousands, for some standard banana plug cables? I don't get this hobby sometimes
I just paused the video at the 6th second, and have to write this to you Buddy. I am drooling at the Epos ES14s!!!! Okay, let me unpause it and continue watching now✌😄👌!!!
Thank you HiViNyws channel. They are Celestion 300 from the 1980s but look a lot like the Epos ES 14s from this camera angle. I must check out your channel. Thank you for watching and commenting 😊👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 oh yes!!! After going back to your video...I saw the "300" and the concave woofer and horizontal design cues on the baffle and I thought ah...... the predecessor of the Epos!!!!!😄 Lovely and even more classic my friend!!! Congratulations for having them!!!!🍀😄💚
HiViNyws channel hope you are doing well. I noticed you stopped producing content on your channel some time ago. Thanks to you, I purchased the Nagaoka MP-200, really pleased with it, but I’d like to upgrade from a Schiit Mani to a tube phono. Any recommendations? Also upgraded from a Rega P1 to a Technics SL1200GR, so I feel the Mani is my weak link at the moment.
@@shahidyt Dear Buddy! Superb. You've got the MP-200!!! 💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪 Amazing thing is that the Mani is still not the bottleneck. I have even heard (and still enjoying) amazing things revealed through my Mani, when the MP-200 gets transferred from my SL1200Mk5 (very solidly built and sounding brilliantly) to my SL1200GAE with the lowest rumble (2nd to the SL1000R) deck on earth😄👍... the Mani is beaten only by a Rega Aria, and it even beats the $1,100 Lehmann Black Cube SE2 in MM mode. Well done Brother, and of course, it is always lovely in this hobby to explore! Which tube phonos have you earmarked? Can you help to list all of them for me?🤗😄🙏 Thank you Buddy Shahid. Peace wished upon you and your family💚🏡🍀 during this month of Ramadan.
@@shahidyt you want to check out the dynavector p75 MK4 phono stage it's not valve but is a fantastic phone for £800 hard to beat under a couple of thousand I would say! has automatic cartridge loading so perfectly matches any cartridges impedance an amplifiers the amps not voltage like most phono stages do so hard to drive cartridges would work a treat. I would recommend the dynavector cartridge as well the budget model 10 x 5 is fantastic cartridge for it's price 500 or the ultimate cartridge is the XX2 at any price range for £1000 a cartridge you can live with for the rest of your life should be priced in the £4,000 range 30db of Separation fantastic
Great advice!. I've had some fairly expensive mains conditioning and cabling in my system (on loan from a friend) and I can't say if I've really heard much, if any difference. The placebo factor is too present when listening to these tweaks. You really need to blind A/B and that's just not possible in most situations. I've had the Tacima for a few years and I think it's a great bit of gear for the money. All these tweaks are a great idea and well worth trying!. 👍
Mike Carr You have resisted the placebo because it was a loan. If you had given any money all the confirmation biasness and placebo would have kicked in.
Honestly love some of the "HiFi Tweaks", but!; "isolation" pads WILL allow the cabinet to move and dampen and/or resonate with the woofer, best to put the speaker on a platform with substantial mass (concrete/marble/granite, etc) then use the isolation pads underneath as to not pass vibrations to a wooden floor. If you have carpet you may not need the isolation pads. Placed on cement floor the spikes (if too pointy) will also allow the cabinet to move and resonate/dampen the sound as well. A very simple test is to place something heavy on top of the speaker, if the bass sounds tighter and cleaner than you have a floating cabinet issue. If you want to clean up and condition the electrical signal buy a isolation transformer, completely reforms the electricity and is used for servers and medical equipment to guarantee a solid clean 110v/230v without noise. You can buy the best power plug, but that means nothing if you have a bad outlet or electrical in your wall or even faulty transformer outside your house. These cost about $150 and will eliminate any need for any other gizmos. Another inexpensive tweak is a clean contact. Tarn-X and a Q-tip is your friend ;-) Side note, you have tiny bones in your ear that adjust for different sounds that WILL physically effect the sound. Even tilting your head back will mute the sound a bit. Point being if you feel it sounds better after certain changes you might be literally opening up your ears and are hearing it better inside your ears but may not be getting any real changes to the audio it self. And obviously cleaning out your ears lol
Thanks for your level headed approach to the subject of audio tweaks. I found the information was clearly explained, practical & very useful. i really appreciate what your hard work to make great videos that help audio enthusiasts like myself make better decisions 👍.
Now these are the kind of videos that I wish more Hi-Fi content creators could get behind. Great video. I have most of these options at home but have never tried the Ferrite cores on speaker wire, so will no doubt have a play later. Will have to try the washing machine pucks as well. But this for me is definitely the more fun for trying. After watching a video yesterday on CZcams by a different subscribed channel where the presenter has gone from modest improvements that I have learnt from over the years and still have a lot of time for and is now posting about a £1500 power supply for a £3K pc and £7K for a pack of four over designed door stops! I feel he is losing my interest. This video is reflected of the fact that the hobby is for everyone and you don't need an 8 figure salary to enjoy Hi-Fi. I thank you. Keep up the great content, it's a very welcome breath of fresh air.
Hi Martin, I started this channel because friends and family regularly asked my advice about putting together a hifi system. I feel passionately about doing my bit to make sure good hifi is accessible to everyone. Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences 👍
The problem with such videos is that there is no proper technology explanation for why things work as they do. As long as you know what you are plugging in and you have read that it will help then you have easy to believe it works! You also need to take a blind test. It also takes too long between so you can also forget things in between as you test!
Well, maybe not today but back in the days if you wanted those juicy high wattage amps with a certain pair of speakers you definitely needed to have a certain income. (this 8 figure income you talk about). Back then it was more of either you paid a small amount for something that probably worked but it was total garbage or you "invested" in something pricey for actual quality.
You are brave my friend going into the lion's den here with these items. I use versions of all classes of tweets you mention. I only deal with cheap ones, based on some common sense and affordable. Basically try them and see if make a difference( usally 2-5 % change).
Thank you so much for these tips! After A- B - ing with ferrite beads & without, I liked the sound with. Having suggested them to my brother(who's in Camden by the way) who was having weird sound interference with his guitar amplifier, he tried them out and fixed the issue! I did get a power conditioner to try, and liked it but after upgrading my amp's power cord, I no longer need it. Now I have weights on my amp and dac and the sound has increased ten fold! Microphonics and microvibrations are 'real pests' and must be soundly addressed which I'm so glad you mention here. "You never hear your stereo system sound better than the weakest link in your audio chain." ~ Steve Deckert AMEN!🙏🏾
I'm going to be trying a few of these tips Tarun, thank you. So far I've tried the passive Tacima mains conditioner, but it went straight back to Amazon the same day it arrived. It seriously dulled the higher frequencies on my system, and sucked a lot of the fun out of listening to my hi-fi. I've never heard a mains conditioner before so wasn't sure what to expect, and I appreciate that I might have gotten used to the sound when electrical noise is present. However, I felt it removed sounds that are supposed to be in the recording as well, and that's why it went back (and I notice this is in stark contrast to how you described its effect). I'm sure mileage varies, so for comparison, my system is Audiolab 8000S and 8000SX amps (from the late 90's), an Audiolab 8200CDQ, and a HiFiBerry Digi+ HAT board on a Raspberry Pi. Speakers are Mission 761's (the original design from 1989, recently rewired and recapped).
Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences Graham 😊👍 These things are largely system depended, hence the name tweaks. Have you tried the parallel mains conditioner?
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I haven't, though a friend has and had a similar experience with the active Tacima one. I'm going to call iFi and ask them a few questions about theirs in the new year (when they're back at work). They also have a power strip called the PowerStation that has a built in conditioner that's directly connected to every plug socket. It's £500 so I'm hoping they can advise me on where I might be best spending my money. I'm wondering if it might be best to put some of that cash towards a linear PSU for my Pi streamer. But there's probably no substitute for trying it...
Great advice. The washing machine pads work for me under almost all of my hifi. My Linn dealer advised not to use anything under my LP12 trampoline baseboard though as you can have too much isolation. I will be giving one of those extension leads a try next.
A good honest representation of the various tweeks. I do have a question about the power cable shielding though. You make a point of saying the shield should be grounded at both ends. I had always been told that cable shields should only be grounded at the source end to avoid ground loops (I believe this is common industry practice for sensitive instrumentation). When I looked this up on line it appears that the is a lot of controversy over the ground loop issue. My limited understanding of the ground loop issue is that when two pieces of equipment (each with separate grounds) are connected together with a shielded cable connected to the chassis of both pieces of equipment (that is essentially grounded at both ends) there is a possibility that each cassis is grounded to sinks which are not exactly at the same potential (one may have a very slightly higher voltage compared to the other). As a result there will be a current flow through the shield wire which could create magnet interference in any sensitive signal wire in close proximity to it. There are a lot of if’s of course and likely most of the time there will not be a significant ground loop current or it will not generate a magnetic field strong enough to be a problem. I have run into ground loop problems in an industrial setting with sensitive vibration monitoring instrumentation and grounding the shield at one end only did resolve the issue. In the case of the power cable ground loop current would likely produce a much weaker magnetic field than the power cable itself produces so I don’t think I hurts to ground its shield at both ends. More sensitive signal wires on the other hand should likely be grounded on one end only in my opinion. Sorry for the long winded comment but I do enjoy you videos and reading the comments from others.
Thank you Jim. You are right, should only be grounded at the mains end. I corrected the info I provided in the next video. Thankful for the thorough explanation 😉
Speaker placement and moving speakers 2-3 feet or more from the wall is free and one of the biggest sonic improvements you can make (unless your speakers are meant to be close to the wall). Not to mention experimenting with toe-in angle for the best soundstage and center image. Moving the listening position away from the wall is super helpful as well. Room treatments, from putting down a rug on the hardwood floor, to treating the first reflection points, putting up diffusers, treating the back wall behind the listening position, and bass traps in the corners to tame and smooth room modes/peaks and nulls/dips can make massive differences as well.
You are definitely my favourite Hifi channel. Total common sense and honest look at this subject. I have implemented exactly the same items as you have listed. I attended the Bristol hifi show this year and sat in on (won't say the manufacturer) demo of their mains filters/ conditioners. He held up the Tacima 6 way mains conditioner and said they have tested this and it introduces noise and degrades the sound of the audio. I nearly fell off my chair. They did not use it as a comparison between their kit either, just decided to bad mouth the Tacima. I have one, nice bit of kit. Great video sir👍
Hi Andy, that is pretty shocking that a manufacturer would do that. Especially when it is know in engineering circles that a main conditioner can be effective and produced for little money with passive components. I am not saying that the Tacima is perfect but it works in my system at least. Thank you for sharing and your kind words of support 😊
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I was shocked that they named and shamed. As if Tacima would produce a product that would be detrimental to audio the purpose it is designed for. I agree it's not expensive but it works. Mine is staying in my setup. Look forward to the next video 👍
@@wadimek116 hey man why so salty? The guy is clearly on point with Speaker de-coupling, AC conditioning, he even mentioned keeping low impedance, so I think you’re just trolling.
I agree with you on mains conditioners and their expensive empty promises. For the same price of $600 I had a license electrician wire two 12 gauge dedicated circuits to the service box. One for digital and one for Analog. The difference in dynamics was night and day. Also noise floor was greatly reduced from the previous 1960s mains wiring.. In humble opinion I'd recommend scrapping the power conditional for dedicated runs to the circuit breaker bus.
Some great tips here; thank you! If I might share something with you about your magical Celestions, unless Celestion has done something about this problem, you'll want to tighten the driver mounting plates periodically, as the bolts get loose over time. Incredible difference after you do it!
Hi David, it is my understanding that it is still better to connect the shield to ground at both ends for it to be most effective. I believe the purpose of connecting at one end was to avoid ground loops (potential difference from one end to another) which can cause hum and interference. If you don’t have a ground loop issue, I was led to believe that it was better to ground the shield at both ends. However, I am sure that someone with a deeper understanding than me may be able to elaborate further. Thank you for watching 😊
Opinions seem to differ. When I made up my mains cables (I prefer the Belden because I tend to stab myself in the fingers with braided shielding) I connected the shield at the wall end only, but there are arguments for connecting at both ends.
Yes, i also got recommendation by electronics/hifi diy experts to connect only one end, to leak all that noise back to the wall instead of amp and wall.
Terminate the shield at the wall end only. You want any electrical noise to flow directly to the outlet and not the equipment. If you connect both ends you can have noise going to ground at both ends. Even though it will ultimately wind up going back to the system ground, it is the time it takes for that to happen that can cause isues. Terminating one end only provides the shortest, quickest, and least resistive path to ground.
Great video. I love hi fi, but I am sure I am not alone in thinking that everything seems to cost a lot of money in this space. You can spend a fortune on a set of speakers or a power amp based on the positive feedback of a few YT reviewers, only to be totally underwhelmed by the results when you get it home. Big problem if you have paid the big bucks. This is an alternative take on things. All these hacks are worth looking in to given they are relatively inexpensive to try out. You are not risking much in the grand scheme of things. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Byron, that is the exact point of this video, inexpensive tweaks to experiment with. They individually don’t make a lot of difference but there is an accumulative effect so in my opinion worth trying out.
You gotta love audiophiles: listen to the opening of this video. “I would rather upgrade my equipment than buy gizmos” If you were really like that you would be spending your money on music, CDs etc rather than neurotically worrying about bass frequencies, speaker isolation, power conditioning and cables. A high proportion of audiophiles possess limited knowledge and appreciation of music. I thought that’s is the primary purpose of a sound system at home.
Like someone once said: Music lovers use their stereos to listen to the music. Audiophiles use music to listen to their stereos! Still... It's fascinating to watch these guys obsess over their set up.
@@TommyZee Like someone else said: Audiophiles want to create the best musical experience in their homes, so they can get closer to the music they love.
2:00 a ferrite core around one lead does nothing. It is my understanding that you put the ferrite core around both leads. Reason being that distortion is picked up by both leads, in contrast to the original signal, which is the difference between the leads. It’s called a common mode choke. Quote: “The magnetic flux induced by differential signals (on symmetric transmission lines) compensates each other, so that the signal is not influenced. On common mode signals (travelling over both wires in the same direction) it operates as a choke, because the resulting induced magnetic flux is non-zero.”
I am pretty sure you should not use ferrite beads on speaker or interconnect cables. Using them on data and power cables does make sense in certain situations
Hey Tarun. Just wanted to say thank you. I have just started building the system of my 2000s dreams (using modern speakers and TMC amps and AV32) and have now reached the cables and power part. Thanks to your videos I got Lapp Kabel (I like how it looks) with some fat IEC connectors (purely for the look). I also got the Tacima conditioner. £600 mains conditioners never really interested me. I really don't believe in snake oil. For RCA cables I went with Audioquest Tower, which tbh? is about as far as I like to go with RCA cables on price. So yes, I just wanted to convey my thanks. I really don't need some guy telling me that I need cables coated in the nipples of 1000 otters that sound better than anything else. I also enjoyed your AE review comparing to the LS35A. I worked at Rogers with Andy Whittle between '96 and the closure in '97. It was a wonderful company to work for. So if you have ever listened to a pair from that timeframe there's a good chance it was all my soldering on the XOs. Thanks again, and take care. Andrew.
Thank you Andrew. I have indeed listened to some Rogers LS3/5a on a couple of occasions so the chances are that I was admiring your handiwork. Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences 😊👍
You present an articulate lecture which I believe would be persuasive to many audiophiles. However I consider all of these recommendations to be the snake oil of the present day hi-fi industry. I believe these suggestions at best would make such an infinitesimal improvement if any, that any perceived improvement would really be imaginary. I look forward to someday seeing such benefits proven by double-blind testing. (I am a retired electronics engineer and long time audiophile).
Hi Howard, thank you for watching and commenting. The problem with double blind tests are that you short term audio memory is very unreliable and the differences we are talking about here are subtle. My view is that if you want evaluate any new component or accessory in your system, listen to it daily for two weeks, then remove it. Be honest with yourself, do you miss the component or tweak? If you do, put it back into your system, if you don’t, return it to the supplier. I am not claiming that this is scientific but it is effective.
A British Audiophile Long term audio memory is very unreliable but short term audio memory (switching back and forth) is not so unreliable. If difference is so subtle as to be not discernible, then I would say it is negligible or imaginary. If one wants to believe that there is an improvement, then go right ahead. I won’t believe it. Some years ago there were hi-fi critics that agreed with me. I’ll admit, these days most seem to have your attitude.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 You're being defensive for no reason. There's nothing stopping you from doing a double blinded test that satisfies your methodology. Get someone to apply one of any number of "tweaks" to your system (at random, with a chance of no tweak being applied) and continue to listen for two weeks.
Of course, it would be a lot simpler if you could just demonstrate that the tweak had any effect on the sound waves emanating from the speaker. We can measure this to a precision thousands of times greater than the human ear. In fact modern electronics can trivially handle signals LITERALLY BILLIONS OF TIMES more complex than analog audio, and with precisely zero errors. The idea that measurement doesn't work is perhaps the biggest absurdity of audiophile lore. The recording of sound is literally measurement of sound. *The recording of sound is literally measurement of sound.* Repeat after me: _The recording of sound is literally measurement of sound._
Sir, I too am a engineer (Audio, electronics, material science) and while there is truth to much of what your are saying the effects (ultimate benifits) are acumlitive and, as you probably know, can indeed be measured under the proper conditions (albit a lab primarily). Small but measurable!
the boxes you showed are mainly. only one capacitor over the power wires. All electrical appliances you have already have a capacitor on the power input! There is a requirement or something everyone must have inside electronic devices. so I don't think those boxes help anything! haven't heard so much good about them either! Placebo effect, if you think it works then they do. The active you show up there is a lot of fake off that is being sold. open it to see inside to share it with youtube viewers
Very Interesting. A couple of points that may be of interest. I made my own Mains cables several years ago from CY cable, Indentical to the Lapp cable you use but a fraction of the price. Regarding Mains filters, I got one many years ago and had the same problems with a 'strangled' sound. I found a solution in plugging the low current components (Pre Amp, CDP, TT etc) into the conditioner and the Power Amp directly into the wall socket. Great set of video's, keep up the good work,
Tip 6 - Keeping your home quite cold will stiffen your driver surrounds, tightening your bass and providing greater texture. Of course, you will need to wear a jacket within your home, but small price to pay.
I know, right? The saddest thing is that people focus on differences which defy all scientific inquiry. If you can be impressed by differences so marginal that they literally defy measurement, you have to be utterly gobsmacked by differences that are SO MASSIVELY HUGE that you can actually measure them. There's plenty you can do which is trivially measured and proven. For example, moving your speaker by one centimetre is *trivial* to measure objectively. If your "tweak" has less effect on sound than that, you ought to question it.
I think the point here is that Tarun is trying to show you some very affordable ways to make sensible improvements to an audio system. Some people will not want to bother and others will be delighted. Decent well screened interconnect cables make sense, loudspeaker cables that have sufficient current carying abilities and a nice low resistance/m also make sense, power cables that are short and kept away from signal cables makes sense. Screened power cables, why not? Yes I agree these should only have their screen connected at the line end, not the load end. Listen and decide for yourself, if it makes you happier then surely that's a good thing, especially vif you can makes some sensible improvements at a sensible cost. For me it becomes snake oil when companies start charging hundreds of dollars/pounds for the generally small improvements. Thanks Tarun.
@@richclips In the first few minutes: 1) There is a major difference between differential-mode capacitance and common-mode capacitance -- nothing said about that. 2) number 1) aside, and assuming it's just a simple model with a source resistance, load resistance, and shunt C across the load, taking the source resistance to be very low -- call it 0.5 ohms to be ultra conservative -- and a 8 ohm load which produces a Thévenin equivalent resistance is 0.5 || 8 ~ 0.5 ohms, we find it would take about 16 uF of capacitance to reduce the system's bandwidth down to 20 kHz. Seems a bit much, eh? Cable capacitance is only a concern when the source resistance is large, like in a guitar pickup. Shielding a cable is a rather complicated matter, and the truth is that most people don't even know how coaxial cable works (I know this is not coaxial cable, but putting a shield around anything is not a simple matter, and where to ground the shield can make a huge difference in its effectiveness). His point about SNR is certainly valid. 3) Ferrite cores are not magnets.....that was it for me. I've been an electrical engineer for four decades and a guitar player for longer than that, and the amount of snake oil and misinformation I've seen in the audio world in general is staggering. I hope you don't have any gold-plated fiber in your system.
@@richclips Most of that doesn't make sense if you have some understanding of electricity. A below-spec power cable would only cause heat and inefficiency. It would also be illegal in most countries. But other than the distortion generated by the crackling embers of a house fire, it wouldn't affect the amplifier's nominal performance. *There are valuable, useful tweaks* that are even cheaper than described in this video-and which also have the benefit of being demonstrable. For example, even the slightest repositioning (in the order of millimetres) can have a measurable impact on the speaker's performance within a room. There's a similar measurable effect from moving your listening position. Even a slight move can be detected with sound wave measurement. Perhaps your rule of thumb should be that any tweak you take seriously must have at least as much impact on the sound you hear as does moving your head by an inch?
As an acoustician and audiologist I can tell you the most important thing is the room acoustics with the speakers and placement. Spend your money in your room acoustics with an professional acoustician and you will be able to enjoy the system like never before. The things you mentionedxin the video makes no difference. Greetings from Germany
Room acoustics do make a significant difference I fully agree. It pains me however to hear, that still people make comments like yours 'the other things makes no difference'- you are either deaf or haven't tried any of those other things. As a follow Audiophile express best, I have never tried a interconnect, speaker cable, or power cord, which didn't make a difference to what I heard. My personal experience, do the 'other things make a difference- Hell yeah! I often make it a habit to invite guests to my house and listen to my HiFi. At the end of the listen session, I switch one of the interconnects for an inferior one. The listener (even novice ones) instantly articulates the change in sound.
It means without acoustically correct of music listening room, not much of usefulness of applying other tweaks, even spending a million pounds on excellent hi-fi system. (How about best gears in worst room?) He is acoustically right. You are right too, all other relevant tweaks do matter more or less. Appropriately setup of acoustic music listening room is number 1, perhaps many music loving people tend to agree. Does unbalanced ears exist, or in other words are both ears hearing identical and how identical relatively? Errr... Just enjoy tweaking and/or lay back enjoying your music... 🥰
Hello everyone, these are the links for items in my list:
5. Ferrite core (check the diameter of the aperture)
www.amazon.co.uk/Dreamtop-Clip-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01MG8GQ1F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Ferrite+cores&qid=1589902212&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzTTZEQkQzUkdWWEFVJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjQ3MzgxMjFVS0FBWko1WkdOWSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM0OTczR1ZOQzhMWVFZWFFFJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
4. Anti-vibration feet (silicon ones work as well as the Sorbothane)
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07MPC5HM3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A19VGPGME3DXWF&psc=1
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B079SV39KW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2K5KKYERQOFGB&psc=1
3. Tacima mains conditioner strip
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00UB0G4DQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A2OMTXKFADW0PO&psc=1
2. Parallel mains conditioners
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BGDC61K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1
www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07835J8XF/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=AUDZDCNEQ3WOO&psc=1
1. DIY mains power lead sets
www.mcru.co.uk/product-category/diy-componants/diy-mains-power-lead-sets/
Power emi filter
Ebay. 293371421008
Ebay. 333315340855
Ebay. 182655378459
FYI - It appears the Tacima CS947 is a UK only device. Not available in US. Doesn't appear to be an equivalent model either as far as I've been able to tell so far, for any other type of plug in.
Thanks skrotkalle
@@abritishaudiophile7314 Have you received any emails from me?
I like your channel for no nonsense technical approach. No voodoo cables or other audiophile so called approved products. The AC power filter is something that I used in the past to get rid off junk that is present in AC line, even more present in North America than Europe.
My washing machine's low frequencies are now much tighter and the low mid resonance in the room disappeared with those rubber feet, I can now listen to a full synthetics cycle at 60º C without any ear fatigue. Thank you!
That is great 😂😂😂
If he had bought an LG direct drive washer he wouldn’t have needed to tweak anything.
Do conditioners make a difference? And does Daz add some sparkle to the hi end?
Do you sit inside it when you listen to it?
LOL🤣
Good tips but reminder sponsor your local hifi shop instead of amazon who don’t pay tax and have no passion about hifi remember support your local hifi shop will make your main brand to survive 👌🏻
Totally agree Gaetan 😉👍
Amazon pays tax. Every time I check out I pay state tax on my items. I'd love to support a local HiFi shop, except every time I go in their prices are crazy high. Why would I pay double what I'd pay on Amazon and the bonus is I don't have to drive to the shop and be told they don't have what I want? If they were even close to price on the identical Amazon item i'd buy from them, but they're greedy. Same with buying anything else.
@@chethammer Maybe greedy but not necessarily. As with other products once these big corporations step in they can stock up with massive orders from the manufacturers and get good prices....the little man cant do that. Then also Amazon get political as they did with the Parler site but we wont go there.
Support your local hi fi shop? Most of them are gone.
Local shops are only interested in selling you the most expensive version of whatever you are looking for. End off!
At the end of the day I found the best tactic that improved my Hifi system and it really works for me is I go out in the backyard and I dig about a 3 m x 2 m hole and I put my turntable in there along with my speakers and then cover it back up with concrete. I've been doing this for several years now and it's quite literally changed my perception of what's possible with pre-recorded music.
At least you didn’t put yourself in the same hole 😂
I made all these changes at once. Made a massive difference to clarity and soundstage. Have no idea which of the changes had the biggest difference but am very happy with the result
That is great 😊👍
Tarun, what speaker cables do you use?
@@alexg4284 at the moment is am switching between Wireworld Eclipse 8 and Audiomica Red Dolomit Reference 😊
I took your anti-vibration pad advice one step further and replaced my speakers with two top-ported washing machines. My system has never sounded cleaner.
Great 👍
This is my first video of yours that I have watched, very interesting and thought provoking many thanks for explaining things in a understandable way.
Thank you for watching Rob 😊
Talks a lot of sense, nice to see and hear somebody talking objectively about audio tweaks.
Thank you for watching 😉👍
This is the first video I've ever watched from you and I subscribed right away. Thank you for a sensible explanation of all the stuff I was wondering about!
Thank you for watching Jorge and your support of this channel 👍
So glad to have happened upon your channel. I am a Yank from Kansas who happens to be an audiophile and an anglophile. What a perfect channel for me!
Thank you Leonard. I appreciate you watching and your support. Happy holidays to you and your loved ones 🥳👍👍
Excellent and to the point advice, makes a refreshing change from some 'experts' that like the sound of their own voice.
Thank you convega8
My most effective and inexpensive tweak is to have my ears syringed. Outstanding!
Agreed 👍
This is interesting because when I listen to music sometimes my left ear is slightly quieter and I find myself twisting my head so I guess this kind of makes sense if it's just wax build up 🤔
I guess sometimes, that could have a negative effect, hehe, 🔥
I guess sometimes, that could have a negative effect, hehe, 🔥
🤣🤣
Thank you for a common sense, reasonable approach to taking care of the basics. I am now a subscriber and look forward to checking out your other videos.
Thank you Ismat. I appreciate your support 😉👍
Great video Tarun! Specially the tip regarding the spikes and how they work in different floor types was awesome.
Thanks again!!
Thank you for watching Chris😊
Good Morning Taran. Just wanted to thank you for another very informative video. I appreciate your easy-to-understand style. I am learning much and I tried the reduction in vibration for speakers. It worked! To be honest, my enjoyment of music increased after I got my hearing aids so it’s a treat to hear recordings as they were meant to be. Thanks again. Have a good evening!
Thank you Alexander 👍
As always,great advice Tarun. Thanks again Sir!👍😊
Thank you James 😉👍
Excellently informative. Lots of little things to consider that I hadn't really thought about. Thanks for your work.
Thank you for watching and commenting Russel 😊👍
First time I watch one of your videos, dope tips and great explanation man. Keep it up!
Thank you Enrique I appreciate your support 😉
Thanks for the videos. An audiophile with common sense and not just deep pockets, someone who speaks my language!
Thank you Dean 😉👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 No probs. 😁
Sensible audio advice delivered in a measured manner. Have now subscribed. Plan to tackle the mains and anti vibration issues first with my vinyl sourced system. Many thanks for the pointers.
Thank you for watching and commenting Peter. I greatly appreciate your support 😊👍
Thanks for the education. In the past, my impression on the power cables conditioner were expensive items. Now I know they are affordable and the local fancy audio shop isn't the only place to buy them! Will watch your video on speakers and interconnect cables. Cheers from Singapore.
Thank you Gavin. I appreciate you watching and your kind words of support 😉👍
Just wanted to say thank you for this vid (and your one on speaker placement). I thought why not? After recently buying new speakers (B&W 603's) and finding the bass dominating (room is 4.2 x 4.8 x 3) I got some Anti Vibration Feet per the link. Boom! Bass no longer unruly and a rock solid improvement. I'll be following your channel! Cheers!
Thank you Clive. I appreciate you watching and sharing your experiences. I am glad it worked out. Thank you for supporting this channel 😉👍
Thank You for your intelligent, scientific insightful down-to-earth common sense commentary that will bring harmony.. I can now enjoy a Mains conditioner I can afford... No more Snake Oil.. you are my friend !!! Blues from Chicago, IL
Thank you William, I appreciate your support 😊
Hi Tarun, just watched this video again...some great tips, really useful. Stay well and keep up the great videos!
Thank you Marc. I appreciate your support 😊👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 You deserve it! 👍
Great to see Hifi tweaks! Thank you Tarun! I am 70 years young and have experienced VPI Magic Bricks from VPI and Tip Toe component feet invented by the Mod Squad that did help my system sound better. I discovered many tweaks that work from Yamamoto Sound Craft in Japan. They have Cherry and Ebony wood head shells for phono carts. I found their PB-19 beveled pure Ceramic spacer that is 12mm in diameter and 2.2mm high very useful under speakers/componets and on top of glass turntable platters in order to decouple the vinyl record from the felt platter mat. The ceramic spacers reduce static electricity in the vinyl during playback. You might have to adjust tonearm VTA when using the spacers. Rega now has a Ceramic platter for one of it's turntables. All the Best to you! Happy Listening!
Thank you Brian 😊👍
Brian at 70 when was the last time you had your hearing checked. Unless you are a medical miracle I can guarantee your hearing is nothing like it used to be. The best tool for Interference is Aluminium foil. You don't need to spend any money. A bit here a bit there.
Thanks for the tips Tarun. I see you're diving fearlessly into the area some find contentious, but I for one agree with your views. In fact, I've been making my own Lapp cables recently to replace the horrible standard cables on some of my vintage gear. This has included fitting IEC sockets to the backplane of amps and also using rhodium plated connection throughout. Only slightly more expensive but less prone to oxidation. Saves on deoxit later.
By the way, I agree with Mr Hall's comment and I only connect the shield to the plug end of the cable.
Hi Mark, thank you for your feedback. I just check with David Brook @ MRCU who sells the Belden and Lapp kits. He agrees with you that the cable should just be terminated at one end, the plug end. I will post an update based on this advice.
Thank you for the suggestion of using washing machine supports for speakers on a wooden floor. I was a little sceptical but am trying this today with a pair of KEF 104/2s that stand on granite plinths that are in turn on a well past its best bouncy Victorian wooden floor. Initial impressions are of less congestion in the bass and lower mids; clearer tom and bass drum patterns, maybe slightly improved imagery too, time will tell. Definitely worth trying and if I decide against well at least I can use one pack under the washing machine 😄
You have kind of mentioned the improvements I would expect from decoupling you speakers from a wooden floor. Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences 😉👍
Got a couple of the ferrite cores and put one on each of the negative (-) side of the speaker cables and was very surprised at the loss of background noise I hadn't realized was there. The silence, while not jaw droppingly incredible, it was quite um, audible.
Thanks for the tip! Cambridge AXR85, ELAC Debut 2.0 B5.2 Speakers, RT82 Turntable (upgraded acrylic platter), Sony BDP-S590 3D Blu-Ray Disc Player, MD deck and double cassette deck. Thanks again!
That is great Liroso. Thank you for sharing your experiences 😊👍
very good tarun - you are very good at explaining using simple and direct language, and being sensible, all in a nice down to earth way - more of this is needed in the 'audiophile' world
Thank you Steve, I appreciate your support 👍
Hooray!
At last a reviewer who understands that spikes COUPLE.
It's mind boggling how many times you hear about using spikes to decouple. Spikes don't decouple.
Well done.
Thank you Nathan. I think it must be that spikes were miss sold for so many years 😉👍
I've heard of using tennis balls as a low cost alternative to specialised decouplers. Is there any truth to that? I assume they won't be as good as proper decoupling gear, but are they doing anything at all?
@@HappyBeezerStudios they will help a bit but for £6 I would buy the washing machine antivibration feet 😊
Good advice! In my past hifi systems I had fairly decent equipment with components such as Linn Sondek/Ittok/K9, Naim Nait (early model) and AE floor standing speakers etc. However my more modest current setup which uses a decent spec PC (for streaming and CZcams, etc), Marantz PM6006 amp and Elac B6.2 speakers and has a far better quality sound with is far more engaging and enjoyable to listen to. The big difference between the two systems is the fact that I use some of the tweaks you mentioned in my current system, whereas in the past, although I had better components, all the cabling was the basic stuff that came with the components, apart from using thicker speaker cables.
When I first became interested in hifi audio, interconnects were never talked about only components and how they measured. The current trend that places more emphasis on decent cabling is a relatively recent development and is to be welcomed as it encourages the audio enthusiast to pay more attention to addressing these important details in order to extract the maximum performance from what they already own rather than simply upgrading components in their search of a better quality sound.
You are quite right. For example interconnect between your source and amplifier can have a profound effect and it is worth spending time and a little money experimenting.
It's not a recent development that cabling improves sound.
@@marvellousmusic4336 It's not. But in the past the emphasis was on different aspects of a system being more important. There are trends in hifi as in other areas of activity.
@@mgsee I wouldn't say that your current system sounds better than a Linn Sondek with ittok arm. The weak link in that system was the K9, it deserved a better cartridge for example a moving coil of higher quality. The output on a streamer is probably louder but not better. Some don't agree that expensive cables make a difference, if you buy good quality that are similar there is no difference. There was a man on hifi forums who used tell people he could make cable from maplins that will be as good, I did not believe him at the time but he was right. Since then I know a scientists who tells me the same. Nobody seems to agree and would rather throw money away on premium silly prices.
@@mgsee Also, just because a magazine tells people something it does not mean it's true. Don't believe the hype.
Love to hear this practical and truthful advice from someone who has the funds to spend a lot but is wise enough to use something that works and avoids "snake oil" so that money can be put to best use!!!
Thank you 😊
Extremely concise well presented and knowledgable presentation. I can see why your subscribers are growing. This is deffo the best cheap way to get into tweaks. I’d say you’d get 40 percent of what the more expensive solutions provide and I’ve tried most of them bar the washing machine pucks which I’m going to have to play around with as right now I can’t afford the iso acoustics ones under my speakers. I used to be an anti expensive tweaker and anti expensive cable guy but I ended up demoing a lot of still points and Entreq cabling and it showed me that it wasn’t snake oil.. Although I’ve easily spent a component level amount on my cables and isolaters in my system I would say the accumulative effect far outweighs any component upgrade of the same price. In fact component upgrades have sometimes resulted in sideways moves and not always improvements.
Hi sound ideas, that’s a very sensible approach. I really enjoyed reading your comments and learning about your experiences. Thank you for sharing 👍
Hi Tarun. Some very simple yet useful tweaks here. I tried the Tacima power strip. The anti-vibration appliance pads repaced the spikes on my speaker stands and, together with rubber door stops de-coupling the speakers from the stands, have all had a remarkable result. Tighter bass, better imaging and vastly improved width and depth in soundstage have been achieved with these inexpensive mods. Who'd have thunk it? Thanks a lot. Solutions don't have to be complicated eh? By the way, I also have zero options for speaker positioning (wall proximity) so got a pair of foam bungs for the L/F ports which has dramatically reduced room boom.
Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences Rafe 😊👍
Nice video! I was expecting to have to suggest sorbathane feet, but you had it covered of course! Microphany has a big effect on small signals so isolating signal sources from tiny movements pays big dividends.
Thank you Kevin 😊👍
Hi Tarun. Great video's. 5 very good advices. Just continue 👍
Thanks for another great informative video. Your brave going down this route. I use most of the items but the washing machine isolation feet might solve a problem I've had for a long time. Thanks
again and please keep them coming.
Good to hear from you Michael. I appreciate your support 👍
Another great video from Tarun, thanks for that! Some of these little tweaks I already implemented, and today I've ordered better power cable for my amp as well as power distributor/filter. Price wise I went a bit further that than Tarun recommends, but even if these upgrades will have neglible effect, I as audiophile will be able to sleep better, knowing that I done everything in this area :)
Exactly Arturas. Thank you for watching and commenting 😁
I wanna be like you when I grow up..:>).. I'm 63 and still growing.. seriously a kick ass system in every room in your house... dude you are bad ass!!
Thanks Hubert, I still haven’t grown up 👍😂
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I appreciate your time and your knowledge
Great video. Congrats. As far as I can see you are a perfectionist, not because of only your audio system but general appearance (the details of your home, painting of the doors etc). prove my observation
Thank you Lutfu. You should see the mess in the living room and hallways at the moment. There are boxes everywhere. 😉
@@abritishaudiophile7314 You are also very humble.!
I love the world of fantasy fi. It’s all crystals, affirmations and the mantra of YMMV.
The Tacima is an amazing tweak. I had no complaints with my system, no buzz, no hum, even on full volume on pause play. But the Tacima definitely improved the TV picture and brought additional detail in the music. Moving speakers a bit further from the wall helped improve the sound. Much enjoyed this and other videos for the clarity and fluency. No plans to replace my 20+ year old Linn system.
It is great that you are still getting so much enjoyment from your system. Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences Chris 😉
The biggest things you need from conditioners are: lack of current limiting and not using fuses/relays to absorb surge.
C'mon guys, let's get the British Audiophile up to 20K subscribers, and then upwards and beyond...thoroughly merited IMHO! :-)
Thank you Marc. Very much appreciated 😉👍👍
Your clear explanation is appreciated. Subbed.
Hi Red Monster, thank you for watching. I appreciate your support 😊
Great sensible approach to Hi Fi. Listening to you for the first time having just bought a Hegel 190 second hand from my own hi Fi dealer.
Unpretentious sound advice. Thanks!
Thank you 😊
I’ve never subscribed on first viewing before, but in this video at least, you talk so much sense that I’m compelled to. I look forward to many more.
By the way, I use felt pads for equipment isolation - they work really well too.
Thank you for watching and for your support of this channel. It is very much appreciated😊
I have some old Celestion 15 speakers I inherited connected to an old Pioneer SA-500A amplifier. The speakers were on a porcelain tiled floor and the sound want great. I added some felt pads and was very surprised to find the sound much clearer. I need less volume and speech is much better separated. I need to do some more testing but if I'd bought new speakers I would've been as impressed. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I wanna recommend a few good listening cd/albums..Artist Jonny Hammond alum Gears first and second selection, next Artist 3rd Force album vital force selection You gotta be real, I think you will really enjoy these as very good listening music, they are well recorded.. let me know what you think
One of my cost-effective tweaks is drum dampener gel silicon that I double stack and place under each corner of bookshelfs. The bass becomes weightier, more articulate and a bit more "bouncy." I think they are the best decoupler, better than springs (like Nobsound spring) which, in my listening test, softens the bass.
Thx 😊
Moon gel?
@@aussie_philosopher8079 Yes but Moon gel costs 4-5 times more. Since I double-stack at each leg, you'll need to make two purchases.
Thanks! Great tips! Well done.
Thank you 😉👍
hi Tarun another great video from you .just love your approach to hi fi .ive watched.all you videos .my favourite.channel now .best Archie 😎😎😎
Thank you Archie. I really appreciate you watching and your very kind and generous words of support😉😂
Good advice and great explanations. #6 - I like to use a rack for the electronics so that the power lines get routed horizontally to the sides and then down (using a cable trough or they could also be bundled). This gives space in the middle to run the interconnects and speaker cables with sufficient distance to the power cables to prevent 60 hz. (guessing it would be 50 hz. in Europe ) hum from passing into the interconnects and speaker wires. Having a rack on wheels (some audiophiles may shudder) makes this easier. If you have a lot of gear it is almost essential.
Hi Kira, that is good advice. Thank you for sharing 👍
Its's definitely good practice to separate AC and other cables, but if you're running equipment that is close to it's rated power under use (e.g. amplifiers running on full blast), be aware that the power cords are meant to (and sized for) hang freely, suspended in air. In this way, any heat generated in the cord can be dissapated easily, and it's under this assumption that the power rating for the cord is established. Bundling cables together calls for a socalled reduction factor in power rating, to account for both the surface area that's no longer able to dissapate heat but also the influence (heat/magnetic) from the surrounding cables. Likewise, running the cord in a conduit increases the temperature around the cable, as the dissapated heat can no longer escape and thus heats up the surrounding of the cable instead. These factors combined will typically reduce the power rating of a cord or cable by around 30 %, so if your usage approaches the 70 % mark, it's worth being aware of.
For what it's worth, I found the Tacima mains strip made the biggest difference to equipment using wall wart power supplies, but I can offer no guesses why (though I've since improved on that by eliminating all warts). Also, Richer Sounds has them for a good price, and I prefer them over Amazon on ethical grounds.
Hi osliverpool, I agree Julian Richer seems to be a good guy 👍
Good reasonable tips to keep in mind.
Thank you Randy
Some really good and sensible tips - thank you. I have just ordered the rubber washing machine feet to place under my Atacama stands, which are currently on spikes and then placed on 2p coins, going to place the 2p coin inside each of the rubber feet so that the spikes dont go through the rubber moulding.
Thank you John 😊👍
Isn’t it amazing, I know a chap with a PhD in physics, who did his dissertation on Audio, having spent years at the BBC and produced some excellent valve amps. He loves dispelling all this mumbo jumbo. Companies spend a fortune on R&D and along come snake oil salesmen, that take you all in with carbon suppressors for RF, 3p pieces of plastic sold for £70, and cables rolled on the thighs of virgins around a campfire on a full moon, filled with oxygen free copper... duh! Unless it’s an oxide, it is all oxygen free.
I don't understand, some cables are sold for hundreds of dollars, some even thousands, for some standard banana plug cables? I don't get this hobby sometimes
@@___echo___ peole make more money of the 1000 dollar cables. Thats not that hard to understand is it?
I just paused the video at the 6th second, and have to write this to you Buddy.
I am drooling at the Epos ES14s!!!!
Okay, let me unpause it and continue watching now✌😄👌!!!
Thank you HiViNyws channel. They are Celestion 300 from the 1980s but look a lot like the Epos ES 14s from this camera angle. I must check out your channel. Thank you for watching and commenting 😊👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 oh yes!!! After going back to your video...I saw the "300" and the concave woofer and horizontal design cues on the baffle and I thought ah...... the predecessor of the Epos!!!!!😄
Lovely and even more classic my friend!!! Congratulations for having them!!!!🍀😄💚
HiViNyws channel hope you are doing well. I noticed you stopped producing content on your channel some time ago. Thanks to you, I purchased the Nagaoka MP-200, really pleased with it, but I’d like to upgrade from a Schiit Mani to a tube phono. Any recommendations? Also upgraded from a Rega P1 to a Technics SL1200GR, so I feel the Mani is my weak link at the moment.
@@shahidyt Dear Buddy! Superb.
You've got the MP-200!!! 💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪💪
Amazing thing is that the Mani is still not the bottleneck. I have even heard (and still enjoying) amazing things revealed through my Mani, when the MP-200 gets transferred from my SL1200Mk5 (very solidly built and sounding brilliantly) to my SL1200GAE with the lowest rumble (2nd to the SL1000R) deck on earth😄👍... the Mani is beaten only by a Rega Aria, and it even beats the $1,100 Lehmann Black Cube SE2 in MM mode.
Well done Brother, and of course, it is always lovely in this hobby to explore!
Which tube phonos have you earmarked? Can you help to list all of them for me?🤗😄🙏
Thank you Buddy Shahid.
Peace wished upon you and your family💚🏡🍀 during this month of Ramadan.
@@shahidyt you want to check out the dynavector p75 MK4 phono stage it's not valve but is a fantastic phone for £800 hard to beat under a couple of thousand I would say! has automatic cartridge loading so perfectly matches any cartridges impedance an amplifiers the amps not voltage like most phono stages do so hard to drive cartridges would work a treat. I would recommend the dynavector cartridge as well the budget model 10 x 5 is fantastic cartridge for it's price 500 or the ultimate cartridge is the XX2 at any price range for £1000 a cartridge you can live with for the rest of your life should be priced in the £4,000 range 30db of Separation fantastic
Thanks again. Great videos. Keep them up.
Thank you Granger 😉👍
Great content, will definitely try these tweaks.
Good to hear from you Mike. Thank you for watching 👍
Great advice!. I've had some fairly expensive mains conditioning and cabling in my system (on loan from a friend) and I can't say if I've really heard much, if any difference. The placebo factor is too present when listening to these tweaks. You really need to blind A/B and that's just not possible in most situations.
I've had the Tacima for a few years and I think it's a great bit of gear for the money. All these tweaks are a great idea and well worth trying!. 👍
Hi Mike, good to hear from you. Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences 👍
Mike Carr You have resisted the placebo because it was a loan. If you had given any money all the confirmation biasness and placebo would have kicked in.
Honestly love some of the "HiFi Tweaks", but!;
"isolation" pads WILL allow the cabinet to move and dampen and/or resonate with the woofer, best to put the speaker on a platform with substantial mass (concrete/marble/granite, etc) then use the isolation pads underneath as to not pass vibrations to a wooden floor. If you have carpet you may not need the isolation pads. Placed on cement floor the spikes (if too pointy) will also allow the cabinet to move and resonate/dampen the sound as well. A very simple test is to place something heavy on top of the speaker, if the bass sounds tighter and cleaner than you have a floating cabinet issue.
If you want to clean up and condition the electrical signal buy a isolation transformer, completely reforms the electricity and is used for servers and medical equipment to guarantee a solid clean 110v/230v without noise. You can buy the best power plug, but that means nothing if you have a bad outlet or electrical in your wall or even faulty transformer outside your house. These cost about $150 and will eliminate any need for any other gizmos.
Another inexpensive tweak is a clean contact. Tarn-X and a Q-tip is your friend ;-)
Side note, you have tiny bones in your ear that adjust for different sounds that WILL physically effect the sound. Even tilting your head back will mute the sound a bit. Point being if you feel it sounds better after certain changes you might be literally opening up your ears and are hearing it better inside your ears but may not be getting any real changes to the audio it self. And obviously cleaning out your ears lol
Thanks for your level headed approach to the subject of audio tweaks. I found the information was clearly explained, practical & very useful.
i really appreciate what your hard work to make great videos that help audio enthusiasts like myself make better decisions 👍.
Thank you kindly David 😊👍
@@abritishaudiophile7314 You're welcome Tarun
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 You are a really funny guy. Always enjoy to watch people talking about things without any knowledge. I had a good laugh. Thanks 👍
Now these are the kind of videos that I wish more Hi-Fi content creators could get behind. Great video. I have most of these options at home but have never tried the Ferrite cores on speaker wire, so will no doubt have a play later. Will have to try the washing machine pucks as well. But this for me is definitely the more fun for trying. After watching a video yesterday on CZcams by a different subscribed channel where the presenter has gone from modest improvements that I have learnt from over the years and still have a lot of time for and is now posting about a £1500 power supply for a £3K pc and £7K for a pack of four over designed door stops! I feel he is losing my interest. This video is reflected of the fact that the hobby is for everyone and you don't need an 8 figure salary to enjoy Hi-Fi. I thank you. Keep up the great content, it's a very welcome breath of fresh air.
Hi Martin, I started this channel because friends and family regularly asked my advice about putting together a hifi system. I feel passionately about doing my bit to make sure good hifi is accessible to everyone. Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences 👍
Totally agree.
The problem with such videos is that there is no proper technology explanation for why things work as they do.
As long as you know what you are plugging in and you have read that it will help then you have easy to believe it works!
You also need to take a blind test.
It also takes too long between so you can also forget things in between as you test!
Well, maybe not today but back in the days if you wanted those juicy high wattage amps with a certain pair of speakers you definitely needed to have a certain income. (this 8 figure income you talk about). Back then it was more of either you paid a small amount for something that probably worked but it was total garbage or you "invested" in something pricey for actual quality.
You are brave my friend going into the lion's den here with these items. I use versions of all classes of tweets you mention. I only deal with cheap ones, based on some common sense and affordable. Basically try them and see if make a difference( usally 2-5 % change).
Hi W Yuhasz, good advice. Thank you for watching. There is a fine line between bravery and stupidity, we will have to wait and see where I wind up 🤪
How do you measure 2-5%?
@@Conservator. how do you measure greatness ? there is no unit, there is a feeling. quantify greatness. quantify more lifelike sound.
Listen with your ears and some very familiar music , with male and female vocal music.
Hi Tarun, great bit of information you have supplied very useful 👍
Thank you 👍
Thank you so much for these tips! After A- B - ing with ferrite beads & without, I liked the sound with. Having suggested them to my brother(who's in Camden by the way) who was having weird sound interference with his guitar amplifier, he tried them out and fixed the issue! I did get a power conditioner to try, and liked it but after upgrading my amp's power cord, I no longer need it. Now I have weights on my amp and dac and the sound has increased ten fold! Microphonics and microvibrations are 'real pests' and must be soundly addressed which I'm so glad you mention here. "You never hear your stereo system sound better than the weakest link in your audio chain." ~ Steve Deckert AMEN!🙏🏾
Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences Steve. Very insightful 😉👍
Where is your data to prove that the generic cable is worst in terms of ‘performance’ than the cable that appears to be made from ‘better’ components?
I'm going to be trying a few of these tips Tarun, thank you. So far I've tried the passive Tacima mains conditioner, but it went straight back to Amazon the same day it arrived. It seriously dulled the higher frequencies on my system, and sucked a lot of the fun out of listening to my hi-fi. I've never heard a mains conditioner before so wasn't sure what to expect, and I appreciate that I might have gotten used to the sound when electrical noise is present. However, I felt it removed sounds that are supposed to be in the recording as well, and that's why it went back (and I notice this is in stark contrast to how you described its effect). I'm sure mileage varies, so for comparison, my system is Audiolab 8000S and 8000SX amps (from the late 90's), an Audiolab 8200CDQ, and a HiFiBerry Digi+ HAT board on a Raspberry Pi. Speakers are Mission 761's (the original design from 1989, recently rewired and recapped).
Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences Graham 😊👍
These things are largely system depended, hence the name tweaks. Have you tried the parallel mains conditioner?
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I haven't, though a friend has and had a similar experience with the active Tacima one. I'm going to call iFi and ask them a few questions about theirs in the new year (when they're back at work). They also have a power strip called the PowerStation that has a built in conditioner that's directly connected to every plug socket. It's £500 so I'm hoping they can advise me on where I might be best spending my money. I'm wondering if it might be best to put some of that cash towards a linear PSU for my Pi streamer. But there's probably no substitute for trying it...
@@GrahamAtDesk I agree, you have to try these things as see how the work in your system 😉
Great advice. The washing machine pads work for me under almost all of my hifi. My Linn dealer advised not to use anything under my LP12 trampoline baseboard though as you can have too much isolation. I will be giving one of those extension leads a try next.
That is great Tony 👍
Super information to a novice like myself. thank you for a super series of videos they are truly educational and informative.
Thank you for watching Andrew and for your kind words of support 😊
A good honest representation of the various tweeks. I do have a question about the power cable shielding though. You make a point of saying the shield should be grounded at both ends. I had always been told that cable shields should only be grounded at the source end to avoid ground loops (I believe this is common industry practice for sensitive instrumentation). When I looked this up on line it appears that the is a lot of controversy over the ground loop issue. My limited understanding of the ground loop issue is that when two pieces of equipment (each with separate grounds) are connected together with a shielded cable connected to the chassis of both pieces of equipment (that is essentially grounded at both ends) there is a possibility that each cassis is grounded to sinks which are not exactly at the same potential (one may have a very slightly higher voltage compared to the other). As a result there will be a current flow through the shield wire which could create magnet interference in any sensitive signal wire in close proximity to it. There are a lot of if’s of course and likely most of the time there will not be a significant ground loop current or it will not generate a magnetic field strong enough to be a problem. I have run into ground loop problems in an industrial setting with sensitive vibration monitoring instrumentation and grounding the shield at one end only did resolve the issue. In the case of the power cable ground loop current would likely produce a much weaker magnetic field than the power cable itself produces so I don’t think I hurts to ground its shield at both ends. More sensitive signal wires on the other hand should likely be grounded on one end only in my opinion. Sorry for the long winded comment but I do enjoy you videos and reading the comments from others.
Thank you Jim. You are right, should only be grounded at the mains end. I corrected the info I provided in the next video. Thankful for the thorough explanation 😉
Speaker placement and moving speakers 2-3 feet or more from the wall is free and one of the biggest sonic improvements you can make (unless your speakers are meant to be close to the wall). Not to mention experimenting with toe-in angle for the best soundstage and center image. Moving the listening position away from the wall is super helpful as well. Room treatments, from putting down a rug on the hardwood floor, to treating the first reflection points, putting up diffusers, treating the back wall behind the listening position, and bass traps in the corners to tame and smooth room modes/peaks and nulls/dips can make massive differences as well.
Thank you Brian 😊
Great insights as usual 👏, I try to screen my mains power supply before it gets into my property
Thank you Andrew 😊👍
You are definitely my favourite Hifi channel. Total common sense and honest look at this subject. I have implemented exactly the same items as you have listed. I attended the Bristol hifi show this year and sat in on (won't say the manufacturer) demo of their mains filters/ conditioners. He held up the Tacima 6 way mains conditioner and said they have tested this and it introduces noise and degrades the sound of the audio. I nearly fell off my chair. They did not use it as a comparison between their kit either, just decided to bad mouth the Tacima. I have one, nice bit of kit. Great video sir👍
Hi Andy, that is pretty shocking that a manufacturer would do that. Especially when it is know in engineering circles that a main conditioner can be effective and produced for little money with passive components. I am not saying that the Tacima is perfect but it works in my system at least. Thank you for sharing and your kind words of support 😊
@@abritishaudiophile7314 I was shocked that they named and shamed. As if Tacima would produce a product that would be detrimental to audio the purpose it is designed for. I agree it's not expensive but it works. Mine is staying in my setup. Look forward to the next video 👍
I love it when "Audiophiles" think they're electrical engineers. It's so entertaining.
He’s not wrong though
@@georgemoraleswork He is saying a lot of bullshit.
Tarun is an electrical engineer 🤦♂️
@@wadimek116 hey man why so salty?
The guy is clearly on point with Speaker de-coupling, AC conditioning, he even mentioned keeping low impedance, so I think you’re just trolling.
@@georgemoraleswork When he said about power cable interferance all his knowlage goes to trash. Its better to watch actual sound engineers
I agree with you on mains conditioners and their expensive empty promises. For the same price of $600 I had a license electrician wire two 12 gauge dedicated circuits to the service box. One for digital and one for Analog. The difference in dynamics was night and day. Also noise floor was greatly reduced from the previous 1960s mains wiring.. In humble opinion I'd recommend scrapping the power conditional for dedicated runs to the circuit breaker bus.
That is very good advice. Thank you for watching and sharing 😉👍
Some great tips here; thank you! If I might share something with you about your magical Celestions, unless Celestion has done something about this problem, you'll want to tighten the driver mounting plates periodically, as the bolts get loose over time. Incredible difference after you do it!
Thank you David. I have experienced that as well. I appreciate you watching and sharing your experiences 😊👍
Brilliant as always! Thanks.
Thank you Daryl. That is very kind 😊👍
Are you sure about connecting the shielding at both ends? I thought you only connected it at the wall plug end.
Hi David, it is my understanding that it is still better to connect the shield to ground at both ends for it to be most effective. I believe the purpose of connecting at one end was to avoid ground loops (potential difference from one end to another) which can cause hum and interference. If you don’t have a ground loop issue, I was led to believe that it was better to ground the shield at both ends. However, I am sure that someone with a deeper understanding than me may be able to elaborate further. Thank you for watching 😊
Opinions seem to differ. When I made up my mains cables (I prefer the Belden because I tend to stab myself in the fingers with braided shielding) I connected the shield at the wall end only, but there are arguments for connecting at both ends.
Yes, i also got recommendation by electronics/hifi diy experts to connect only one end, to leak all that noise back to the wall instead of amp and wall.
Terminate the shield at the wall end only. You want any electrical noise to flow directly to the outlet and not the equipment. If you connect both ends you can have noise going to ground at both ends. Even though it will ultimately wind up going back to the system ground, it is the time it takes for that to happen that can cause isues. Terminating one end only provides the shortest, quickest, and least resistive path to ground.
@@osliverpool Connect The Shielding To The Plug End If You Connect It On Both Ends The Shielding Will Act Like A Antenna
Shields only get terminated at the source not both ends on power cables.
Thank you djvartan, it is my understanding that it is better to connect at both ends if you don’t have a ground loop problem. Is this correct?
Absolutely fantastic, thanks T !
Thank you. Much appreciated 😊👍
Hi Tarun. Great video's. 5 very good advices. Just continue
Thank you Rene 😊👍
Great video. I love hi fi, but I am sure I am not alone in thinking that everything seems to cost a lot of money in this space. You can spend a fortune on a set of speakers or a power amp based on the positive feedback of a few YT reviewers, only to be totally underwhelmed by the results when you get it home. Big problem if you have paid the big bucks. This is an alternative take on things. All these hacks are worth looking in to given they are relatively inexpensive to try out. You are not risking much in the grand scheme of things. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Byron, that is the exact point of this video, inexpensive tweaks to experiment with. They individually don’t make a lot of difference but there is an accumulative effect so in my opinion worth trying out.
I have isoAcoustic stands under my book shelve speakers. It's one of the greatest in-expensive changes I've made.
So do I. Excellent
Hi Luke, they a good devices but a little pricey. Thank you for watching 😉
@@abritishaudiophile7314 though not as expensive as the Target 'R' Series stands!
I love your channel! You’re a realist in a sea of kooks. Thanks for another great video.
Thank you Paul. Very kind 😊👍
Nice setup! Your monitors in the intro remind me of my Ushers S520 II :D Very nice looking.
Thank you Michal 😉
You gotta love audiophiles: listen to the opening of this video.
“I would rather upgrade my equipment than buy gizmos”
If you were really like that you would be spending your money on music, CDs etc rather than neurotically worrying about bass frequencies, speaker isolation, power conditioning and cables.
A high proportion of audiophiles possess limited knowledge and appreciation of music. I thought that’s is the primary purpose of a sound system at home.
Like someone once said: Music lovers use their stereos to listen to the music. Audiophiles use music to listen to their stereos! Still... It's fascinating to watch these guys obsess over their set up.
Yep. I guarantee none of these hacks do anything tangible for sound.
@@TommyZee Like someone else said: Audiophiles want to create the best musical experience in their homes, so they can get closer to the music they love.
2:00 a ferrite core around one lead does nothing. It is my understanding that you put the ferrite core around both leads. Reason being that distortion is picked up by both leads, in contrast to the original signal, which is the difference between the leads. It’s called a common mode choke.
Quote: “The magnetic flux induced by differential signals (on symmetric transmission lines) compensates each other, so that the signal is not influenced. On common mode signals (travelling over both wires in the same direction) it operates as a choke, because the resulting induced magnetic flux is non-zero.”
Thank you for sharing Dumdadum76
Whatever? It works with one for me! Happy camper!😎
@@yogarl7 me too. It could be the added inductance or something else not yet fully investigated and understood. Regardless it works in some systems 😉👍
I am pretty sure you should not use ferrite beads on speaker or interconnect cables. Using them on data and power cables does make sense in certain situations
@@TheMicozon check out this article www.empiricalaudio.com/computer-audio/technical-papers/myths-and-snake-oil
Another solid video! Thank you.
Thank you for watching Anton😉
Hey Tarun. Just wanted to say thank you. I have just started building the system of my 2000s dreams (using modern speakers and TMC amps and AV32) and have now reached the cables and power part. Thanks to your videos I got Lapp Kabel (I like how it looks) with some fat IEC connectors (purely for the look). I also got the Tacima conditioner. £600 mains conditioners never really interested me. I really don't believe in snake oil. For RCA cables I went with Audioquest Tower, which tbh? is about as far as I like to go with RCA cables on price. So yes, I just wanted to convey my thanks. I really don't need some guy telling me that I need cables coated in the nipples of 1000 otters that sound better than anything else. I also enjoyed your AE review comparing to the LS35A. I worked at Rogers with Andy Whittle between '96 and the closure in '97. It was a wonderful company to work for. So if you have ever listened to a pair from that timeframe there's a good chance it was all my soldering on the XOs. Thanks again, and take care. Andrew.
Thank you Andrew. I have indeed listened to some Rogers LS3/5a on a couple of occasions so the chances are that I was admiring your handiwork. Thank you for watching and sharing your experiences 😊👍
You present an articulate lecture which I believe would be persuasive to many audiophiles. However I consider all of these recommendations to be the snake oil of the present day hi-fi industry. I believe these suggestions at best would make such an infinitesimal improvement if any, that any perceived improvement would really be imaginary. I look forward to someday seeing such benefits proven by double-blind testing. (I am a retired electronics engineer and long time audiophile).
Hi Howard, thank you for watching and commenting. The problem with double blind tests are that you short term audio memory is very unreliable and the differences we are talking about here are subtle. My view is that if you want evaluate any new component or accessory in your system, listen to it daily for two weeks, then remove it. Be honest with yourself, do you miss the component or tweak? If you do, put it back into your system, if you don’t, return it to the supplier. I am not claiming that this is scientific but it is effective.
A British Audiophile
Long term audio memory is very unreliable but short term audio memory (switching back and forth) is not so unreliable. If difference is so subtle as to be not discernible, then I would say it is negligible or imaginary. If one wants to believe that there is an improvement, then go right ahead. I won’t believe it. Some years ago there were hi-fi critics that agreed with me. I’ll admit, these days most seem to have your attitude.
@@abritishaudiophile7314 You're being defensive for no reason. There's nothing stopping you from doing a double blinded test that satisfies your methodology. Get someone to apply one of any number of "tweaks" to your system (at random, with a chance of no tweak being applied) and continue to listen for two weeks.
Of course, it would be a lot simpler if you could just demonstrate that the tweak had any effect on the sound waves emanating from the speaker. We can measure this to a precision thousands of times greater than the human ear. In fact modern electronics can trivially handle signals LITERALLY BILLIONS OF TIMES more complex than analog audio, and with precisely zero errors. The idea that measurement doesn't work is perhaps the biggest absurdity of audiophile lore. The recording of sound is literally measurement of sound. *The recording of sound is literally measurement of sound.* Repeat after me: _The recording of sound is literally measurement of sound._
Sir, I too am a engineer (Audio, electronics, material science) and while there is truth to much of what your are saying the effects (ultimate benifits) are acumlitive and, as you probably know, can indeed be measured under the proper conditions (albit a lab primarily). Small but measurable!
the boxes you showed are mainly. only one capacitor over the power wires. All electrical appliances you have already have a capacitor on the power input! There is a requirement or something everyone must have inside electronic devices. so I don't think those boxes help anything! haven't heard so much good about them either!
Placebo effect, if you think it works then they do. The active you show up there is a lot of fake off that is being sold. open it to see inside to share it with youtube viewers
Indeed. They are a well known con.
Very Interesting. A couple of points that may be of interest. I made my own Mains cables several years ago from CY cable, Indentical to the Lapp cable you use but a fraction of the price. Regarding Mains filters, I got one many years ago and had the same problems with a 'strangled' sound. I found a solution in plugging the low current components (Pre Amp, CDP, TT etc) into the conditioner and the Power Amp directly into the wall socket. Great set of video's, keep up the good work,
Thank you for watching and sharing Mike 😊👍
Great advice. Merry Christmas 👍🎅🏼
Thank you Senna and merry Christmas to you too 🎅👍
Music always sounds better after a nice cold glass of beer 🍺
Agreed. Cheers 🍺
I sincerely echo this best and cheapest upgrade😊
Or two :D
You should definitely try red wine, wider soundstage than cold beer. 😉😉😉
Tip 6 - Keeping your home quite cold will stiffen your driver surrounds, tightening your bass and providing greater texture. Of course, you will need to wear a jacket within your home, but small price to pay.
Good one 😂
I've found that induces low frequency vibration (shivering) and a shrill foreground noise (Wife yelling saying "turn on the .... heater")
Excellent no nonsense advice!
Thank you buddy. Much appreciated 😊👍
Nice informative presentation. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for watching Shakil 😊
I have a MSEE and had to shut this off after the first few minutes. Yikes...
I know, right? The saddest thing is that people focus on differences which defy all scientific inquiry. If you can be impressed by differences so marginal that they literally defy measurement, you have to be utterly gobsmacked by differences that are SO MASSIVELY HUGE that you can actually measure them. There's plenty you can do which is trivially measured and proven. For example, moving your speaker by one centimetre is *trivial* to measure objectively. If your "tweak" has less effect on sound than that, you ought to question it.
I think I need to change industries. . .
I think the point here is that Tarun is trying to show you some very affordable ways to make sensible improvements to an audio system. Some people will not want to bother and others will be delighted. Decent well screened interconnect cables make sense, loudspeaker cables that have sufficient current carying abilities and a nice low resistance/m also make sense, power cables that are short and kept away from signal cables makes sense. Screened power cables, why not? Yes I agree these should only have their screen connected at the line end, not the load end. Listen and decide for yourself, if it makes you happier then surely that's a good thing, especially vif you can makes some sensible improvements at a sensible cost. For me it becomes snake oil when companies start charging hundreds of dollars/pounds for the generally small improvements. Thanks Tarun.
@@richclips In the first few minutes: 1) There is a major difference between differential-mode capacitance and common-mode capacitance -- nothing said about that. 2) number 1) aside, and assuming it's just a simple model with a source resistance, load resistance, and shunt C across the load, taking the source resistance to be very low -- call it 0.5 ohms to be ultra conservative -- and a 8 ohm load which produces a Thévenin equivalent resistance is 0.5 || 8 ~ 0.5 ohms, we find it would take about 16 uF of capacitance to reduce the system's bandwidth down to 20 kHz. Seems a bit much, eh? Cable capacitance is only a concern when the source resistance is large, like in a guitar pickup. Shielding a cable is a rather complicated matter, and the truth is that most people don't even know how coaxial cable works (I know this is not coaxial cable, but putting a shield around anything is not a simple matter, and where to ground the shield can make a huge difference in its effectiveness). His point about SNR is certainly valid. 3) Ferrite cores are not magnets.....that was it for me. I've been an electrical engineer for four decades and a guitar player for longer than that, and the amount of snake oil and misinformation I've seen in the audio world in general is staggering. I hope you don't have any gold-plated fiber in your system.
@@richclips Most of that doesn't make sense if you have some understanding of electricity. A below-spec power cable would only cause heat and inefficiency. It would also be illegal in most countries. But other than the distortion generated by the crackling embers of a house fire, it wouldn't affect the amplifier's nominal performance.
*There are valuable, useful tweaks* that are even cheaper than described in this video-and which also have the benefit of being demonstrable. For example, even the slightest repositioning (in the order of millimetres) can have a measurable impact on the speaker's performance within a room. There's a similar measurable effect from moving your listening position. Even a slight move can be detected with sound wave measurement.
Perhaps your rule of thumb should be that any tweak you take seriously must have at least as much impact on the sound you hear as does moving your head by an inch?
As an acoustician and audiologist I can tell you the most important thing is the room acoustics with the speakers and placement. Spend your money in your room acoustics with an professional acoustician and you will be able to enjoy the system like never before. The things you mentionedxin the video
makes no difference. Greetings from Germany
Room acoustics do make a significant difference I fully agree. It pains me however to hear, that still people make comments like yours 'the other things makes no difference'- you are either deaf or haven't tried any of those other things. As a follow Audiophile express best, I have never tried a interconnect, speaker cable, or power cord, which didn't make a difference to what I heard. My personal experience, do the 'other things make a difference- Hell yeah! I often make it a habit to invite guests to my house and listen to my HiFi. At the end of the listen session, I switch one of the interconnects for an inferior one. The listener (even novice ones) instantly articulates the change in sound.
It means without acoustically correct of music listening room, not much of usefulness of applying other tweaks, even spending a million pounds on excellent hi-fi system. (How about best gears in worst room?) He is acoustically right. You are right too, all other relevant tweaks do matter more or less.
Appropriately setup of acoustic music listening room is number 1, perhaps many music loving people tend to agree.
Does unbalanced ears exist, or in other words are both ears hearing identical and how identical relatively?
Errr... Just enjoy tweaking and/or lay back enjoying your music... 🥰
Acoustics depend on listening material and how loud you are listening to it. These audiophile tweaks are more noticeable with more volume.
Very informative video guy i'm so glad i came across your channel you got my sub mate!.
Thank you Jason, I appreciate you watching and your support 😉