@@owenfalconer9398 Many do it, some don't mine has a bad rattle almost, it needs an adjustment bad, it also happened to me when I started to run thinner oil. A healthy engine usually won't do it but they do make noise.
Theres a 94 Toyota Pickup at home with the 22RE and my goodness that engine has to be one of the best engines Toyota has ever made. Can't express enough how thankful I am for the years of reliable service that truck has given. Things a tank and 298k miles later, still going strong.
My 1992 pickup 2wd with 22RE sounds just like that. It's just the way they sound. I don't mess around with doing it hot. I adjust them to 7/11 cold instead of 8/12 hot. I turn my engine over using the crank pulley bolt. My 1/2 drive ratchet with 19mm socket slips right between the bottom shroud easily, and then right onto the crank pulley bolt. A helper to line the marks up on the crank pulley helps it go faster because I can't see the alignment marks laying underneath turning the engine over with the ratchet.
when I was a kid everyone came to me to work on their Toyota 20r and 22r and the 2tc and 3tc engines....I had a pretty hot Carola 2door wagon and a 2 door car was running a 3tc hemi with an offenhauser dual port intake and dual webber carbs and a header...then I turbo charged it with a homemade blow thru system....they were pretty damn fast and could take the high rpm abuse I did all that before rice was cool lol
The 22R Toyota engines are notorious for the nylon timing chain tensioner wearing out. That's probably what your hearing. If not addressed the chain will rub threw the case and leave a hole. It is common and if you google for it there is an upgrade kit to replace that guide assembly. Good luck. Really enjoy your vids.
I notice that changing my cars engine oil quiets down the engine more than a valve lash adjustment dose on my 90 Integra. Its basically got the same setup for camshaft with rocker arms for the valves. Though My car has a timing belt instead of timing chain which might be the source of your car's engine noise.
I wouldn't adjust anything on a high mileage head without a rebuilt head, new timing chain, oil pump, water pump, tc gears, whole shebang. You can buy everything on eBay, including new timing cover now for $75, free shipping! I would yank engine out and do a rebuild. Injectors, everything! I just finished a UZ1 92 Lexus 4.0 V8. Aluminum head and block, was a blast. Sounds great with flowmasters!
So instead of a simple valve adjustment, your solution for noisy valves is to pull the motor and do a full rebuild? Right on. Oh and you suggest the cheapest garbage aftermarket parts as well? Bang on.
On my 97 accord I'd have the valves adjusted and it would sound solid for a few days and then it would be back to noisy again. I even took it back to the Honda dealer and they said there is nothing wrong with it - so depending if they are hydraulic or not is the reason for the noise. I had tried to compare my Accord to an Acura same model year and his had hydraulic and no noise.
Really enjoy your videos. I've timed a 22RE about 4 times. Original Engine was still going at around 365,000 miles but decided that I could replace it for less then free at the moment w/ a new Crate engine from xxxxx. I have an 1985 Toyota 4 Runner with a new engine that has been sitting for over 10 years now. Engine is /was new 15 years ago and ran last in about 2008. (About 3000 miles w/ proper oil changes x 3 during break-in), gas is as old in the lines, tank, pump, etc. Suggestions on a pre startup thing to do? Think I need to pull the cylinders or just spray some oil in there and turn the engine over w/ the ignition disconnected? Also think that all the lines and fuel pump and injectors need to be cleaned or replaced before start up. Engine was not fogged before the project began and got set to the sidelines. ??? Rust bucket build that needs a new body. Thank you for any constructive advice. I already know that I should have been taking better care of the engine during this storage period>
pulling the sparkplug's would have made turning the motor by hand a lot easier and saved you from cranking it with your yellow dot . but I still like the dot reference mark .
I'm not saying this to be a hater but you can just put the ratchet on the crank pulley from below and make small incremental movements checking along the way ... you can start to tell when it's coming around on the compression stroke because it gets harder to crank the engine and then right when you are near TDC it lightens up. Or if you have someone else available ask a helper to keep an eye out for the TDC mark while you crank the ratchet from below. The shroud is in the way on my 4runner too but I just reach in from below, the extra ground clearance probably makes it easier than on one of the 2wd pickups but still doable.
Just worked on a 92 PU with the 22 RE and when i removed the valve cover the driver side timing guide was missing and chain was flapping in the breeze. I put the new front cover kit with oil N water pump on it and all new upper gasket kit.
get rid of the mechanical fan. swap in an electric fan for $30 with a fan controller.. buy the steel guide kit from ENGNBLDR.com don't adjust the valve lash out of spec. yeah, it's only a thousandth but at higher RPMs you might have some floating valves due to the rockers being too tight.. unless you have dual compression valve springs, stay with stock specs. glad you got er cleaned up 👊😎
FYI these are famous for the timing chain to cut through the timing chain cover. Change the chain as recommended. If you think you have a bad head gasket, it will be the for mentioned.
Probably your injectors mate! Mine are noisy too, took a bit of getting used to, the timing chain was perfect and I set the valves and still noisy. Put a screwdriver to the injector and boom ticking like a clock. Just how they go ;)
FYI, I would have removed the spark plugs and turned the engine over by using the camshaft bolt. The little rubber grommet comes out at the front of the engine.
The factory in Japan set them at .007/.011 because that's the setting the delivers the best overall power, fuel economy and valvetrain durability and minimizes ticking noise. I used .007/.011 for 485,000 miles and my camshaft lobes, rocker arm pads and the tips of the valve adjustment screws were still unworn - no ridges, dents or flattened spots and virtually no loss of engine power.
I am curious, how did you know about those measurements? I am reading right now the toyota manual and it says: 0.008/0.0012. Also, did you use those measurements when the engine is cold or service temperature? thanks.
That ticking you're hearing is called the 22R sound
So nothing is wrong with that sound
@@owenfalconer9398 Many do it, some don't mine has a bad rattle almost, it needs an adjustment bad, it also happened to me when I started to run thinner oil. A healthy engine usually won't do it but they do make noise.
Some you can adjust to a nice smooth acceleration whine
Theres a 94 Toyota Pickup at home with the 22RE and my goodness that engine has to be one of the best engines Toyota has ever made. Can't express enough how thankful I am for the years of reliable service that truck has given. Things a tank and 298k miles later, still going strong.
Nice! Idk why but mine blew up at 170,000 😷
550k Miles and likely dead soon, wish me luck
What a great little motor. Have heard great things about there longevity. My 02 Tacoma has the 3.4 v6 with Iron block, another great toyota engine.
I listened to both before and after a few times, it is definitely sounding smoother and quieter. It was rough to start, but the response is good now.
Strange thing is it seems to have a little more power now but I kinda think that's just my imagination ha ha
My 1992 pickup 2wd with 22RE sounds just like that. It's just the way they sound.
I don't mess around with doing it hot. I adjust them to 7/11 cold instead of 8/12 hot.
I turn my engine over using the crank pulley bolt. My 1/2 drive ratchet with 19mm socket slips right between the bottom shroud easily, and then right onto the crank pulley bolt. A helper to line the marks up on the crank pulley helps it go faster because I can't see the alignment marks laying underneath turning the engine over with the ratchet.
Would the same measurements work for the 20r?
comparing 0:43 with 7:13 there's a good improvement!
when I was a kid everyone came to me to work on their Toyota 20r and 22r and the 2tc and 3tc engines....I had a pretty hot Carola 2door wagon and a 2 door car was running a 3tc hemi with an offenhauser dual port intake and dual webber carbs and a header...then I turbo charged it with a homemade blow thru system....they were pretty damn fast and could take the high rpm abuse I did all that before rice was cool lol
They say that 1,000 horsepower motors are monsters! Older Toyota engines are true monster
Great engine.. Thanks for the video.
*THE LEGENDARY 22R*
CR2504life this is a 22re
@@hydroboostoxiaction6271 same engine just ecm and fuel injection system
Are you gonna do any more long travel videos because those were really cool
The 22R Toyota engines are notorious for the nylon timing chain tensioner wearing out. That's probably what your hearing. If not addressed the chain will rub threw the case and leave a hole. It is common and if you google for it there is an upgrade kit to replace that guide assembly. Good luck. Really enjoy your vids.
Yeah get the LCE Timing chain kit with the steel guides. best kit you can buy.
casada70 tends to be louder than the nylon guides but last longer. unfortunately replacing it is a long job
I hear no timing chain noise in this clip. It should be more obvious than that. Metal on metal chain noise is louder than valve rattling by far.
eBay, get New cover, oil pump, water pump, timing chain both gears ,all gaskets, guides, seals, all new, $75.
I notice that changing my cars engine oil quiets down the engine more than a valve lash adjustment dose on my 90 Integra. Its basically got the same setup for camshaft with rocker arms for the valves. Though My car has a timing belt instead of timing chain which might be the source of your car's engine noise.
I wouldn't adjust anything on a high mileage head without a rebuilt head, new timing chain, oil pump, water pump, tc gears, whole shebang. You can buy everything on eBay, including new timing cover now for $75, free shipping! I would yank engine out and do a rebuild. Injectors, everything! I just finished a UZ1 92 Lexus 4.0 V8. Aluminum head and block, was a blast. Sounds great with flowmasters!
So instead of a simple valve adjustment, your solution for noisy valves is to pull the motor and do a full rebuild? Right on. Oh and you suggest the cheapest garbage aftermarket parts as well? Bang on.
On my 97 accord I'd have the valves adjusted and it would sound solid for a few days and then it would be back to noisy again. I even took it back to the Honda dealer and they said there is nothing wrong with it - so depending if they are hydraulic or not is the reason for the noise. I had tried to compare my Accord to an Acura same model year and his had hydraulic and no noise.
Really enjoy your videos. I've timed a 22RE about 4 times. Original Engine was still going at around 365,000 miles but decided that I could replace it for less then free at the moment w/ a new Crate engine from xxxxx. I have an 1985 Toyota 4 Runner with a new engine that has been sitting for over 10 years now. Engine is /was new 15 years ago and ran last in about 2008. (About 3000 miles w/ proper oil changes x 3 during break-in), gas is as old in the lines, tank, pump, etc. Suggestions on a pre startup thing to do? Think I need to pull the cylinders or just spray some oil in there and turn the engine over w/ the ignition disconnected? Also think that all the lines and fuel pump and injectors need to be cleaned or replaced before start up. Engine was not fogged before the project began and got set to the sidelines. ??? Rust bucket build that needs a new body. Thank you for any constructive advice. I already know that I should have been taking better care of the engine during this storage period>
this sure brings back some sweet memories, but in a carburated form for me;)
22r goodness
Also, take out the plugs. When the piston is at the top of cylinder you can adj. valves.
Toyota web site forums say there is a 10-20% power loss in miss adjusted valves .. True ? I don't know .. But she sounds better ! Thumbs up..
pulling the sparkplug's would have made turning the motor by hand a lot easier and saved you from cranking it with your yellow dot . but I still like the dot reference mark .
I'm not saying this to be a hater but you can just put the ratchet on the crank pulley from below and make small incremental movements checking along the way ... you can start to tell when it's coming around on the compression stroke because it gets harder to crank the engine and then right when you are near TDC it lightens up. Or if you have someone else available ask a helper to keep an eye out for the TDC mark while you crank the ratchet from below. The shroud is in the way on my 4runner too but I just reach in from below, the extra ground clearance probably makes it easier than on one of the 2wd pickups but still doable.
Cool Thanks
Just worked on a 92 PU with the 22 RE and when i removed the valve cover the driver side timing guide was missing and chain was flapping in the breeze. I put the new front cover kit with oil N water pump on it and all new upper gasket kit.
do mine now. : )
So when moving down the intake and exhaust how far to you rotate the motor? A full turn back to top dead center?
get rid of the mechanical fan. swap in an electric fan for $30 with a fan controller..
buy the steel guide kit from ENGNBLDR.com
don't adjust the valve lash out of spec. yeah, it's only a thousandth but at higher RPMs you might have some floating valves due to the rockers being too tight.. unless you have dual compression valve springs, stay with stock specs.
glad you got er cleaned up
👊😎
If nothing else, the engine seems to idle a lot smoother.
It fires 1,3,4,2 in that order if you just keep rotating 180. Verify with distributor position. Just a different way to do it.
FYI these are famous for the timing chain to cut through the timing chain cover.
Change the chain as recommended. If you think you have a bad head gasket, it will be the for mentioned.
Yah, the plastic chain guide goes out on em eyy, dontchaknow.. X )
nice job, you could do it easier, by taking the plugs out
Valve adjustment at operating temp?
Exactly.
How does one adjust before the engine cools down?
This is ridiculous. Why isn't their measurements listed for when it's cold?
Sounds The Same After ? You Might Need New Timing Chain Guides They Came With Plastic Ones From Factory And The Top Ears Break Off After Awhile
This guy didnt know a thing about the 22R-E
Probably your injectors mate! Mine are noisy too, took a bit of getting used to, the timing chain was perfect and I set the valves and still noisy. Put a screwdriver to the injector and boom ticking like a clock. Just how they go ;)
How do you solve your problems can you explain a little more because my its sound same its a 1987 toyota pickup 22r carburator can you help please
ticking could be the injectors. My subaru ticks but its all injectors
I had the exact same problem on my mercedes, air leak at injector
Good point
30GB
Always RTV the half moon seals or the cover will leak oil.
West Coast Roller mine never have leaked and I didn't use rtv on them
What is the half moon? West Coast Roller :
FYI, I would have removed the spark plugs and turned the engine over by using the camshaft bolt. The little rubber grommet comes out at the front of the engine.
just curious- why remove the spark plugs? i am not much of a mechanic so be gentle, please. : )
just saw that someone mentioned it would make turning the motor by hand easier, but why? thanks.
@@thelivekennedyssdcaliforni7841 no compression
thanks.
What happened to sand rail
Great video but I thought you were supposed to do valve adjustments while the engine is cold because the metal expands when it's hot?
Toyota gives specs for hot engine.
some manufacturers give both hot and cold lash
I thought that also. Learn something new every day!
That's one method but I use another.
Stick with 008 + 012. I would rather hear 'em than smell valves. Also ck the rotor position.
Valves adjustment 7 and 10 cold, or timing chain guides broken.
Valve clearance has nothing to do with chain guide durability.
Umm your wrong a 22re is 5degrees not 0 zero is 22r carbed....
Sounds more like a sewing machine at the end 👍
The factory in Japan set them at .007/.011 because that's the setting the delivers the best overall power, fuel economy and valvetrain durability and minimizes ticking noise. I used .007/.011 for 485,000 miles and my camshaft lobes, rocker arm pads and the tips of the valve adjustment screws were still unworn - no ridges, dents or flattened spots and virtually no loss of engine power.
I am curious, how did you know about those measurements? I am reading right now the toyota manual and it says: 0.008/0.0012. Also, did you use those measurements when the engine is cold or service temperature?
thanks.
@@chacholiades I personally measured them on a dozen new '89-'95 trucks including two of my own. Engine fully warmed up.
@@4af so, engine warmed up and the .007/.011. I will try those.
SAND RAIL ?????
@2:20. Already bloody😂
Sounds like the ole "Toyota tick" to me!!
I have a 92 Toyota 4X4 SRE 4 cyl had to replace timing chain since then I have the" TOYOTA TICK" its driving me CRAZY!! Anyway to STOP this????
@@sinw.o.k1739 just drive it buddy
@@sinw.o.k1739 valve clearances need to be .007/.011 to quiet the tick.
What causes a ticking sound when its trotterling ?
Ok not many mechanics really go into the finer tuning of an engine
Ok so should they be replaced?
@@owenfalconer9398 I would
Sounds like ur metal rod bearing
if you tighten valve cover too much will make rockers noisy again
Thats a cool look into the toyota engine. The rice oil looks a lot like regular engine oil.
A majority of folks always skip showing how to install the half moons and how much silicon to use. No different here....jc
no good bro
What a great little motor. Have heard great things about there longevity. My 02 Tacoma has the 3.4 v6 with Iron block, another great toyota engine.