94-97 Accord Upper/Lower Spark Plug Tube Seals/Valve Cover Gasket
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2024
- There's some good info at the start of the video but TO GET STRAIGHT TO THE REPAIR SKIP TO 3:20.. 1995 Honda Accord 4 Cylinder non V-tec F22B2 engine. I had a leaking valve cover gasket, leaking spark plug tube seals and noisy, tapping valves.. I repair all three in this video including the lower tube seals under the rocker arm assembly.. Should be good info for any older Honda.. Accord, Civic, Prelude, Odyssey etc.. Not difficult but you have to be careful if you have lower seals and have to remove/reinstall rocker arm assembly.. Video shows entire repair sequence.. Note: deep set 12mm socket needed for two bolts on top of rocker arm assembly.. tall ones that serve as studs for valve cover..
Fel-Pro Gasket Kit https:www.autozone.c...
Permatex 81160 High-Temp Red RTV Silicone: www.amazon.com...
Torque specs for rocker arm assembly bolts (for 95 Accord)
4 Rear (intake) 10mm bolts: 9ft lbs.
12 Front (exhaust) 12mm bolts: 15ft lbs
Valve adjustment clearance specs (for 95 Accord)
Intake (rear) valves: .010mm
Exhaust (front) valves: .012mm
5 years later and this video is still helping people out this guy is the man nbs
A tip someone gave me is to put a little rtv in the groove where the valve cover gasket goes in each corner, this has helped my gasket never fall out of place and even stays on when I remove valve cover.
WARNING: Hi everyone, just wanted to post another tip that I learned the hard way after watching this video. Great video, by the way...thanks so much PBM! OK, so here is my tip. When removing the rocker arm assembly, you begin by loosening the bolts in the pattern presented in the video. When all the bolts are loose, its time to remove the assembly from the cylinder head. There is a big deal made in the video, referencing Eric the Car Guy, to keep track of the bolts. Don't pull them out and mix them up. But then its tricky to flip the assembly over to replace the lower seals, right? The bright idea I had was to take a piece of cardboard, punch out holes to mirror the spatial configuration of the bolts in the assembly, and then remove each bolt one at a time, placing it in the cardboard so that I would remember the position of each bolt. DO NOT DO THIS! Or more importantly...DO NO REMOVE THE SIX 12MM BOLTS FROM THE EXHAUST (FRONT) SIDE OF THE ASSEMBLY. These bolts hold the assembly together...if you remove these bolts from the assembly, and then you take the assembly off of the cylinder head, the assembly will expand due to the inner spring tension on the rocker arms and man, it is a PAIN to get things lined up again. I gave up and went to the junkyard to get an entirely new assembly ($30), kept those six 12mm bolts from the exhaust (front) side in place the whole time (i.e., never removed them from the assembly) and the rest of the repair was a breeze. You CAN remove the six 12mm bolts from the intake (back) side of the assembly, and the four 10mm bolts from the very back (close to firewall) side of the assembly....but DO NOT REMOVE THE SIX 12MM BOLTS FROM THE EXHAUST (FRONT) SIDE OF THE ASSEMBLY. The rest of this, including the valve adjustment, wasn't bad at all. Good luck!!!
Thanks for the warning..
Also, here is a link to another video that has some nice footage and tips starting at 10:32. This video involves repair of a 1991 Honda Civic but everything looks very similar and its all the same idea. In any case, some additional repair footage in case it is helpful: czcams.com/video/nGDUQ1wyET0/video.html
Can’t thank you enough for this, I think the fact that you did this for your first time made it even MORE informative
Glad the video helped.. And yeah, if I ever replace those seals again the video will be much shorter with fewer first timer issues which sounds good but the issues are what show you the possible problems you could encounter..
Probably the best Valve Cover Replacement video I have seen.
That's how it's done. Great walk through man, so much detail. I can appreciate that, thank you for the awesome video!
I have done this job myself and I really cannot believe how good that video was. If you do this wrong after watching this I would throw the tools in the garbage !!!
im sorry but you aint touching my snap on tools
Very detailed from A to Z. Very understandable. Voice speed and everything is PERFECT! Thanks for the GREAT video! 🙏🙏🙏
Great video this was my son's first car we just bought him a new one for graduation and was doing some maintenance to the Honda before selling didn't know that they had lower seals until got ready to put the gasket kit on opened it and seen the o-rings that got me here to find out where they go once again great video man.
glad it helped.. thanks for reply..
One of the most informative and important Honda videos on CZcams. Thank you for the tips on not tipping the rocker assembly, took me about 2 hrs for this and spark plug/wire replacement. It's the same procedure on my 91 CB7 accord. Such a common honda problem
Glad to help.. thanks for reply..
This man is good
The pointer
The detail
Thank you sir
Glad to help.. Thanks for reply..
Become a teacher man, ur vids make perfect Sense also the way you present things makes it easier. 10/10
Too old to go back to school.. Glad vids help.. Thanks for reply..
your video helped me tremendously. Thanks from the bottom of my heart. You are a great teacher. Taking your time with the students.
Glad to help.. Thanks for reply..
wanted to give a thanks 5 yrs later still helping people out great vid👍
Didn't really know what I was doing but that Accord is still on the road.. Thanks for reply..
@@tongo117 hell yeah, these things are pretty simple and strong, though my valve tick seems to never go away no matter how I adjust. I’ve heard it’s normal to an extent for these engines and runs fine so I’m running with it
Great video. Super clear narration and cam work and lighting, etc.. You explain *every* detail! Love the ETCG inserts. And. You're too modest, you informed re: how to adjust valves just fine. Thank you.
You are welcome.. Thanks for reply..
great video, the amount of detail is what needs to be on these repair videos, not just watch and assume
Thanks so much for your video and also for your references to the Eric the Car Guy video for rocker arm replacement. I was able to perform this repair successfully on my '96 Accord by carefully following your example and advice.
Glad to help.. Thanks for reply..
Really Great Video! You gave me the confidence to do this myself. I would add just one thing: when I pulled the rocker arm assembly off, I got a decent amount of oil in the 12mm bolt holes - make sure to sop them out before reassembly. I'm not a mechanic either, but from what I understand you could do serious damage otherwise. I did everything you did here, plus changed the plugs. The results are great. Acceleration is much more responsive and quieter. 320k and going strong.
1995 honda odyxsey broken timing belt bwy, bent valves and maybe more.295,241 miles. Did leakdown , pulling head off for all repairs if piston or ring damage will trash. Great video nice sounding engine
You put a lot of excellent work into the repair & the video. ETCG could learn a thing or two from a first timer! Especially when it comes to the torque sequences. I have the same year car & will be performing the same work based on your video! Thanks again for taking the time to share. Hopefully you'll have other vids down the road.
You are welcome.. With all the aging Hondas out there I figured the info would help someone.. Would love to film it over again with the knowledge I have now.. Would be much shorter without the need for all the added segments.. I was learning and filming at the same time and trying not to give out bad info that might lead to someone ruining their engine.. Especially the rocker arm assembly removal/install.. Repair wasn't difficult.. Filming/editing video was much harder and time consuming.. But worth it if it helps.. Good Luck with your repair!!
PeanutButterMan what is the intake side filler guage size?
I used a .010 (inch) feeler gauge to adjust the rear (intake) valves and a .012 (inch) gauge for the front (exhaust) valves.. Jump to 22:00 in the video for more info on how I determined the valve clearance specs for my 95 Accord..
Intro has some good info.. Repair starts at 3:20.. Fel-Pro gasket set used in video: www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-VS50365R-Valve-Cover-Set/dp/B000C2GID4/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=Accord%7C751&Year=1995%7C1995&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive
I am assuming you have the 2.2l F22 engine in your accord. Do you know if this valve cover set fits the 2.0l F20 engine? I''m having a hard time finding the lower spark plug tube seals.
The engine in this video is an F22B2 engine.. 4 cylinder 95 Accord LX.. Not sure if the Fel-Pro kit I used will fit your car.. You could call honda dealership and get kit from them.. It would likely cost more but you would know you have the right kit..
Excellent video much thanks for your time and effort
Awesome video, very detailed and spot on!! Excellent job!!
Awesome video bro saved me a big ass headache
removing the rocker arm assembly shouldn't disrupt the valve clearances, but for peace of mind, it doesn't hurt to check. informative video.
Awesome video,and narration...thx
You are welcome.. Thanks for reply..
Man you say you make it lpok harder than it is, you made it look so much easier than the time ive been having on doing mine
Man! I wish I would have seen this video before following Eric the car guys direction on flipping the rocker arm assembly over. When i heard the sound of bolts falling out, I did what I thought would be smart which is pulled all the bolts out and stuck em in a cardboard shoe box top and little did i know it caused and end to come off and I can't get the holes lined up to get some of the 12mm bolts back in. I hope to get em lined up with a punch when I take it to work tomorrow. But thanks for this informative video!
Yeah for him to flip it over like that with bolts falling out then tell you (in the added caption) not to do that was pretty weak.. Good luck with getting yours back together.. And thanks for reply..
@@tongo117 you're welcome and thank you for your reply, I'm literally just getting home from work and trying to get it in and it's been a failed attempt so far. My mechanic told me I need to turn the shaft to get the holes aligned and trying to do that myself was impossible so imma ask some fellas to give me a hand tomorrow after work.
Can’t wait to do this with my dad next weekend!
Thankyou so much James Riley
You are welcome, James Riley..
Hi Peanutbutterman.... a guy on Eric's vid noted this.. " make sure the camshaft is rotated to the right position before you remove the rocker arm assembly. the end of the cam has a flat slot that fits into the distributor if its pointing straight up and down and still under the tension of the timing belt you could pull the cam out with the rocker arms and screw the engine timing :( " .... What do you think ?
Excellent detailed video I have the same year car and will be doing the same work subscribed .Thank you for taking the time to share.
You are welcome.. 3 months since repair and all is well.. car running fine and no leaks in plug wells or valve cover gasket.. Good Luck with your repair..
Beautiful video, I thank you for this. I buttoned mine all up today & it sounded & ran great. Then I noticed it was leaking oil like a sieve. I think I need to get back in there & use more rtv on the driver side corners. Everything went together so wonderfully it seemed too good to be true. I did skip removing the timing belt cover & adjusting the valve clearances but that shouldn't cause it to leak. Had to step away from it for today & will give it my best attempt for take two tomorrow. Please let me know if anyone has any thoughts. I wish the acorn nuts could be tightened down harder. I need to let the rtv cure for the hour & then give it the 24 hours out of service. I gambled & drove it right away so that dumb move may have killed my fix. Thanks again & have a great one!
Update: I have the rtv curing overnight for my third time's the charm hopefully. What I finally noticed & highly recommend everyone inspect is their cam gear shaft seal. Mine was completely disintegrated (inside cuff where timing belt loops) . Today I get to see if my wild west, seat of my pants fix sealed it up or not. For anyone else's sake I hope your cam seal is in good health. Thanks again!
Anders Valin did you buy the seals from eBay or the dealership?
Dan SW I went with after market generic that advance auto had in stock. I installed it on the fly. I recommend researching the proper installation of it. I slid timing belt off after marking 3 spots in white on gear & belt. I believe I did that on top dead center. Put cam in vice & hammer struck the pre soaked with penetration oil bolt to remove cam gear. Removed rotten cam seal from shaft & replaced with new one with open side & internal spring facing inward toward cam/away from cam gear. I didn't seat mine or rtv it in place. I breathed a heavy sigh of relief this morning when everything fired up & seemingly ran nice & smooth no leaks. Until later now I have maybe a drip or two here & there after warming everything up. This was a $500 car I bought from my buddy that had had an oil leak forever, presumably from cam seal. I brake cleaner sprayed everything down so now any leak will drip straight down instead of accumulating into sludge buildup. All in all I'm a happy camper that I didn't break it & it seems to be better. The timing belt looked a little old when I had the upper guard off. I've used this car as a crash course in tackling various things to teach myself. I may slap it on Craigslist & try to get my money back with an honest description of what I know about it. Haven't made up my mind yet but have sure had fun going all in with it & bringing it back from the brink of death. I'd never been inside a valve cover before this weekend so I feel a sense of accomplishment worth $500 after all is said & done. Best of luck!
Doing this job tomorrow. Thanks, for the video it's very informative.
You are welcome.. Thanks for reply and Good Luck..
I ended up snapping a couple bolts on the valve assembly. So be careful with old bolts. Made my job much worse.
Thanks for sharing 😁👍!
you are welcome.. thanks for reply..
It would have been good to know what are the measurements of the o-rings used under the sparkplug wells.
excellent demo
thanks..
My 91 cb7 se has both sets with a f22a6. Might be the f22a1 that only has one seal. I will know when I tear down the head on my f22a1 i have.
Could I remove and replace one bolt on there without having to take off all the bolts in that order? 8:49
I don't know for sure but seems like nothing would move if removing/replacing only one bolt.. You should be fine..
@@tongo117thank you 🙏🏾
1991 Honda accord quit running. Just wouldn't start. Before this it had been misfiring a bit. We did a compression test and one of the valves came out 70 while all 3 of the others were at 150. we went to replace spark plugs and did but found there was oil in all four of the valves. Before we scrap the car, are there some things we can check. We are some what capable of repairing our own vehicles. We do all of the time. Love this car. It is a 1991 accord that is soooo clean and it only has 80K original miles.
Is it necessarily 100% the piston rings? Or is there anything else we can check first. Oh I should also mention there was also some dark smoke coming out when we were trying to start.
I've never dealt with a low compression issue so I can't help from experience.. I found a little info on a 1990 Accord with similar issue: www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/general-tech-help-7/90-accord-low-compression-3rd-cylinder-3855/
The timing belt of broke crank the engine and remove the oil cap to see if the can rotates
@@Jame6999 thanks can you say it again? Only slower? Lol
@@claircoy3047you have two choices. This is assuming the timing belt did snap. You stated the engine quit running and you had low compression in one of the cylinder. To verify if the belt did snap you can remove the upper timing belt cover or you can remove the oil cap. Now put a white mark on the cam (white out works) and have someone crank the engine while you look inside the engine to see if the camshat moves. If it moves the white mark will obviously move. Btw you'll need a flashlight to see inside the engine after removing the oil cap. Or remove the upper timing belt cover and you'll see that the belt is either intact or not. I hope that's clear.
Really afraid to perform this task!! Being its my first time as well, But with the combo of your video & ETCG's video it should be fairly easy. Just have to pay attention to detail! HOPE I perform well. Thank you. I been studying for at least 6 months, here and there. LOL. But your vid surely did brought my confidence even more up, I am ready! #Suscribed
Yes.. Not difficult.. Pay attention to detail as you say and you will be fine.. Good Luck..
Great job 👍
Would this be the same for a 1992 Honda Accord 2.2? And does the cam have to be in a certain position before removing the rocker assembly? Like can in pop up or ruin the cam seal?
Not sure if it would be exactly the same but if your 92 has the lower tube seals also then it should be very similar..
PeanutButterMan Mine looks exactly the same. I’m just nervous about the cam moving or something weird happening
@@SladesVWBeetle Nothing should move until you rotate the engine by turning the 19mm bolt (counter-clockwise) on the power steering pump pulley.. And that's only if you choose to adjust your valves after replacing lower seals.. I was nervous also but it turned out fine.. Two years later no issues..
PeanutButterMan Thanks very much, I truly appreciate your advice. I will be doing it the following weekend. I’m going to attempt to adjust the valves, I have done them on my beetles, it looks the same just a lot more valves, LOL thanks so much for your video it’s given me the confidence to do it and you’re advice.
@@SladesVWBeetle glad to help.. good luck..
Will this cause burning of engine oil
Caused me to burn a good bit almost every time on acceleration after coming to a complete stop, and would go away after 3k ish rpm in 1st gear, after new gaskets no smoke at all
The gasket you used looks like an aftermarket gasket that fits reasonably well. What brand is it?
Fel-Pro: czcams.com/users/redirect?q=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FFel-Pro-Gaskets-VS-50365-R-Valve-Cover-Gasket-Set%2F221879155282%3Fepid%3D75830558%26hash%3Ditem33a9073a52%253Ag%253AyWEAAOSwcjhau7Hu%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3DVS%2B50365%2BR%26_from%3DR40%26rt%3Dnc%26_trksid%3Dm570.l1313&event=video_description&v=Dp-9YlSB0PM&redir_token=uEMZa-PyWJ5AT9KfSlceg55B8RV8MTUzODEyOTkwM0AxNTM4MDQzNTAz
??????? How long did this job take. Good video, thanks
This took two days to complete because I was filming it and it was my first time.. Next time ( I still have this Accord) I would guess 3 hours max..
!!!!!!!!! He's not so clear as to what happens if you take the bolts out....The Whole Thing Falls Apart and is a jigsaw puzzle to put back together !!!!!!!! It took 2 hours to reassemble !!!! The two end bolts are the only ones that need to stay in....they are keyed with the shaft; the others can come out. I removed mine to clean everything and the bolts were in the way.
Just replaced mine, but when I buttoned it back up there is now a loud ticking sound. Any ideas?
Nevermind, just heard the mandatory valve adjustment that is probably needed
You really shouldn't need to put any RTV down, if the gasket is working or worth a crap it should seal fine. If your valve cover or cam seal top ends are good then the unit should seal with out issues. I am sure the issue some people have is they don't make sure they have a good fitment in the cover and then once placed. I am not a fel pro fan on the Honda because they tend to have a bad fit. BTW that engine is noisy.your valves might not be seating properly. You probably should have rotated your cam and checked valve clearance once more. While you were that far the cam shaft seals should be replaced, not much more work.
Oh look another keyboard mechanic 😂
The shop manual calls for a small amount of sealant on the first and last cam holders. so it's "worth a crap" down the road. And, "that far down" still requires removing the timing belt covers, timing belt, cam sprockets, cams, etc... just to do something that is not recommended by Honda to do unless they are leaking. So it is much much more work and high risk. Probably your Fel-Pro gaskets are failing due to installation error and not applying RTV IMO. Sometimes it's "worth a crap" to follow the directions.
i used this video. put every thing back together now the car wont start. starter is doin its job it wants to turn over but wont start. what coul i have done wrong? following this video was pretty straight forward. should i spray starter fluid?
I'm in the same boat
Most likely a no spark issue.
Timing might be off
Did you ever get this fixed? I followed instructions, placed each cylinder on TDC and now it won't turn over.
Any of you guys figure out the no start issue ?
Any plans for a timing belt & water pump? Most of the videos out there are utter garbage... ETCG wants to sell his video.
How bad would it be to not adjust my valves after?
Never knew that there were seals below the cam shaft assembly. BTW: How many miles on that Accord ?
I didn't know either until leaks developed.. Mileage is 139,176
Do you figure the valve adjustment is necessary after doing those seals or could i get away with just putting everything back together and going. I did the valve adjustment just not but a few months ago
you may be ok but if/when you remove the rocker arm assembly that disturbs the valve clearances.. i would at least check them and adjust if necessary since you already know how..
Do you know the part number for the lower tube seals? I already replaced the upper tube seals and the gasket on the cover. Thanks
I don't know the part number specifically for the lower seals.. The Fel-Pro kit I used had upper/lower seals and gasket all included..
www.autozone.com/gaskets/valve-cover-gasket/fel-pro-valve-cover-gasket-vs50365r/67278_69276_0?spps.s=4809&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:IEN:71700000060668281&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3ff1rrTe6wIV2uKGCh1RQAvbEAQYASABEgKP-_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
PeanutButterMan thanks for the information
If you can’t find your vin, don’t take a single screw out.
I have 33,000 miles on my 1994 Honda Accord LX 2.2l f22b2 engine. What's the chances the lower plug seals, 0-rings under the rocker arm assembly are bad?...
If those lower seals are original I would say the chances are very high.. Easy to check.. If you remove your plugs and find oil on any/all of them the seals are bad..
Would this cause the car to not crank? Car won’t start and I noticed that many of the boots were flooded in oil.
If a cylinder is flooded so badly that the oil gets into the boot where it snaps onto the plug that can cause a misfire.. If multiple are flooded then yes, I would think that may cause a no start..
I just adjusted my valve lashes 1,XXX miles ago. If I change the spark plug tube seals, do I have to adjust the valve lashes again when i reinstall the rocker arms?
Not a mechanic, but based on what I've read.. Removal and reinstallation of the rocker arm assembly disturbs the valve lashes.. So the ones you previously set won't be precisely correct after reinstallation.. Since you've done it before, I would readjust them just to be sure..
Sorry for the dumb question, but is it really necessary to adjust the valves? Am kind of confused! I am planing to do this too, trying to remove the rocket arm to replace the O-rings...
Not a dumb question.. When I did this repair my Accord was 22 years old and I knew the valves had never been adjusted.. But is it necessary?? Probably not.. Is it recommended in your service manual?? Probably yes..
@@tongo117
Thanks for your response, so I was just wondering because not long ago we’re the valves adjusted and there’s is no noise coming out of them, I did the timing belt and valve cover gasket but is till leaking so I saw your video and Eric’s the car guy I’m kind of confident to do this, so I was just curious how possibly will get out of adjustment but I’m going to try, but thanks again for your response..! Greetings
Do I need to put the car in TDC before pulling off the rocker arms?
I did not and almost 7 years later the car is still running fine.. However, maybe I should have.. I honestly don't know.. If you follow this link and scroll down a little on the page someone posted instructions that include removing the rocker arm assembly.. The first step is set engine to TDC.. It's not for an Accord but a Honda CRX.. www.crxcommunity.com/threads/how-difficult-to-change-the-rocker-arm-o-rings.224657/
I have a question when u tell us not to take the 6 bolts off the assembly on the exhaust side does that mean i cant loosen them or just do the normal procedure but not pull them out of the holes in the assembly?
You can replace the lower seals without removing those bolts.. So loosen them yes, but don't remove them from the holes..
@@tongo117 thanks man im putting it back together now hopefully this works lol
Good Luck..
Unable to turn power steering pump to set TDC positions. Transaxle set to Park was it supposed to be in Neutral for it to work?
Mine was in park..
Did you ever figure it out? having same problem. My crank turns over some and then stops.
How do you know if you have to do those lower seals or if you even have them?
I had oil leaking in around the plugs which I believe was due to the upper seals being bad.. I called a local Honda dealership and gave them my VIN to find out if I also had lower seals.. How do you know if lower seals are bad? I'm not sure.. The seal kit I used came with both upper and lower so I replaced them all..
After assembling everything back on, I rotated the power steering pump counterclockwise to check valve clearance but my timing belt gear did not move. What give?
PS belt is on right?? If so, rotating the pump should also turn the crankshaft pulley which should then turn timing belt gear/pulley.. If that's not happening I'm not sure what's going on..
I’m having this issue right now and can’t figure out what to do either. I can get pump pulley to move but it no longer rotates the camshaft past a certain point. Anyone ever figure this out?
Great Video.. I have the exact same car and year... same problem.
and now thanks to a random dude in S/E Georgia... you can fix it...
lower spark plug tube seals are shown at 10:30.. they came in this kit but check your make/model/year car to be sure this kit will work for you: www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-VS50365R-Valve-Cover-Set/dp/B000C2GID4/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=Accord%7C751&Year=1995%7C1995&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive
Hey man i have a 96 accord v6 2.7l do i have any at all ? Are the under the rocker arm assemblys I have front and back assemblys bc of the c27 v6 is it just 1 set under each rocker arm front and back?
If so where are they located
No experience with V6 don't know if you have lower seals.. If you call a Honda dealership and give them your VIN they can tell you for sure yes or no.. If you do have lower seals they'll be under the rocker arm assembly just like mine.. And with a V6 you will have 3 seals under each assembly front/back..
Is it normal for rocker arm with a little play or moves when wiggle it on #5 cylinder? I'm working on my 2010 Honda Pilot and I'm having difficulty checking the exhaust valves clearances. Any tips or ideas? Thanks...
i'm no expert but i believe all of the rocker arms should have a little play in them.. and on my 4cyl accord all of the valves were easy to reach so i don't have any suggestions on your problem with exhaust valves clearances.. other than to ask someone more knowledgeable than me..
PeanutButterMan thanks...
uu on my 2010 Honda Pilot v6 rocker arm assembly bolt torque were 16 lbf.ft... pay attention on their tightening sequence it's very IMPORTANT!!!
uu no problem, good luck!
Is that a tear in your timing belt?
don't think so.. if it was it lasted over two years that way.. this was posted in June 2017.. that timing belt was changed in Sept 2019.. still have this Accord.. runs fine..
I followed instruction from a different source, which did not mention removing the bolts in order. I am not able to remove the assembly from the distributor end. This has put me in a very stressful situation. Please help!
did you take the three bolts off at the distributor end that i mention at 5:59?
@@tongo117 yes I removed those, yet the assembly is separated at the timing belt end but not at the distributor end. I fear that not taking the bolts out in order my have caused me a problem.
Not sure if this will help but step 14 gives advice on removing stuck rocker arm assembly: sites.google.com/site/hondalioness/removerockerarmassy
@@tongo117 I will look into this. Thank you!
What are the torque specs for the two 10mm and one 12mm bolts on the distributor housing?
One good tug
sorry, just saw this question.. i don't know the torque specs.. i just got them a little past snug and left it at that..
hi i a question where can i find the lower seal tube let me know please thanks
valve cover gasket, upper and lower tube seals all come in this kit.. 95 accord 4cylinder non vtec:
www.autozone.com/gaskets/valve-cover-gasket/p/fel-pro-valve-cover-gasket-vs50365r/67278_69276_0?spps.s=4809&cmpid=LIA%253AUS%253AEN%253AAD%253ANL%253A1000000%253AIEN%253A71700000060668281&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3ff1rrTe6wIV2uKGCh1RQAvbEAQYASABEgKP-_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
What do you mean rotate and flip them up to get the seals out. I know it sounds dumb.
Go to 11:33.. Rotate or flip up the exhaust rocker arms on the front of the rocker arm assembly.. You can then lean the assembly back to access the lower tube seals without having the bolts fall out.. Having the bolts fall out is what you want to avoid.. You can see the exhaust (front) rocker arms in the up position at 14:33..
@@tongo117 makes sense. Thanks for responding. Knowing this is a 2 year old video. I'm about to buy a 95 Accord lx and the thing is clean but it has that dreaded oil leak issue which is why I'm here. The engine on that car is so quiet unlike the others ive had which sound like a diesel motor. Thanks again
How do you know which cable is negative on a battery
Black cable minus symbol
Stupid design!
I have a 97 Accord SE with this 2.2 F22B2 engine and I didn't know there were lower spark plug tube seals.
The crappy Haynes manual I have doesn't mention them going by memory.
I have replaced the valve cover gasket in the past along with the upper spark plug tube seals.
Now it's leaking oil from the rear corner of the drivers side valve cover and there was oil in the spark plug tubes last time I looked which was a long time ago,lol.
I don't think oil in those spark plug tubes is a big deal and nothing to lose sleep over.
I'm more concerned about the valve cover oil leak,but have let that go for a long time.
This is the f22a6 correct? Single overhead cam?
Oh no b2
They're both the same valve train right?
With SOHC?
Yes they’re the same, only difference I could find online is that some people use different torque sequences (Eric the car guys vid basically did them in the opposite order) but I don’t think it matters too much so long as you DO use some kind of sequence, everything in this vid worked perfectly on my f22a6
@@chasethompson7392 Hell yea! 🤜🤛🤙
Can you guys please let me know what is the part number of this lower seals ?
Sorry don't know the specific part number for just the lower seals.. The Fel-Pro kit I used included upper and lower.. www.autozone.com/gaskets/valve-cover-gasket/p/fel-pro-valve-cover-gasket-vs50365r/67278_69276_0?spps.s=4809&cmpid=LIA%253AUS%253AEN%253AAD%253ANL%253A1000000%253AIEN%253A71700000060668281&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3ff1rrTe6wIV2uKGCh1RQAvbEAQYASABEgKP-_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thank you i appreciate it. It has been very hard to find those in specific went to honda and doesn’t show any part number in their diagram. My car it’s 2001 Honda Accord EX V6, im able to find the parts for the 4 cylinder but being honest i don’t know if those o rings might fit in the v6 and it only comes with 4 as well. That’s the problem with old cars
Would this work on the 95 accord coupe ex
if you have a 4 cylinder non v-tec F22B2 engine with lower spark plug tube seals then it should be exactly the same.. if you're not sure what engine your 95 coupe has you can call the parts dept at your local honda dealership and give them the vin number.. they should be able to tell you what engine you have..
PeanutButterMan thanks for the reply im buying a 95 honda accord coupe ex for 500$ its seen better days and needs work i haven’t seen it in person yet but from research I believe its a f22b1
@@dejesuslazo3540 Yes. All EX models come with the SOHC V-TEC F22B1 engine. You can tell because the spark plugs are center over the valve cover as opposed to over the rear like in this video. Also, you can check the timing belt cover. It will say what engine you have. You can also check the etching on the engine block. Also, it'll say VTEC on the valve cover lol
I'm in the process of doing this and I wish I could've seen you actually unscrewing and taking off the upper timing cover because I'm having the worst luck getting mine off. I got the right screw off with no problem but the left screw will keep turning but not come out. It is in such a tight space that I can't get pliers or anything on it to help pull it out. I'm hoping someone here has any clue on what to do. My car has been sitting for a long time because I can't get that darn thing off.
You have to remove the bracket that holds the dipstick in place and possibly pull the dipstick out of the oil pan and push it to the side that will give you more play by the way it’s a bolt not a screw lol
Once you get it off just don’t put it back lol
Have to put that Honda bond on or that bad boy will leak right down on that timing belt.. "boo "
What type of permitex
I used Permatex 81160 High-Temp Red RTV Silicone.. It's been over one year since repair and no leaks.. www.amazon.com/Permatex-81160-High-Temp-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B0002UEN1A
Is that recommend the red? I seen ultra black is also high temp with fast set up time 500 degree black 650 degree red
8:46
So I took the bolts out. How do I line it up after
when you say "it" what are you referring to??
What you doing dude engine Co on Indian hot
Check out this video on how to change out your hubs and rooters czcams.com/video/ASZckaT2_HM/video.html
Word of advice don't buy the torque wrench from harbor freight .....
why? I have one from there
Why? Donut media just tested theirs and it preformed as well as a $450 snap on….
What Gasket Set did you use? Was it a Fel Pro valve cover set?
yes. www.autozone.com/external-engine/valve-cover-gasket/p/fel-pro-valve-cover-gasket-vs50365r/67278_0_0
@@tongo117 Thank you so much!
wouldnt the black gasket maker silicone work better for this ? it is for valve covers as far as i know
Still have this 95 Accord and no leaks 6 years later but YES, I believe black is more oil resistant and a better choice for valve cover gasket..
Very detailed from A to Z. Very understandable. Voice speed and everything is PERFECT! Thanks for the GREAT video! 🙏🙏🙏
You are welcome.. Thanks for reply..