Hi Len, This is a longer video that really goes in depth about the nuances of layering glass sheets to make patterns. it is a very popular kiln method. these sheets can then be slumped into a mold at lower temperatures to become a shape other than flat pattern. I will send you that video as well.
@terri b, it's going to be impossible for you to anneal your glass properly without a pyrometer. Glass is very susceptible to changes in temperature (thermal shock) and if it is not annealed properly using a specific schedule it will likely crack or explode or hold unnecessary stress that will make it much more susceptible to breaking or even exploding further down the road. Get yourself a good programmable kiln!
This is good if you have a few thousand dollars or more in your slush fund? I use a manual kiln and pyrometer. My kiln has infinite Power switches, this gives me excellent control over the fire. Depending on how many times you fire and temperature you must replace your thermocouple, this can be checked using pyrometric cones to verify temperature.
You seem to know something about this whole glass business. I need to do something really simple and need a no nonsense way to go about it with no kiln. What I need done it to fuse the top of a drinking glass with a flat piece of class on the top, effectively making the inside of the drinking glass a hermetic seal. How would you go about this? I'm thinking a blowtorch and glass powder.
Hello! I'm a ceramicist starting a new adventure in art glass. My little kiln has the power and precision to do more or less whatever I want with it (Skutt GlazeTech with a touchscreen controller upgrade), but my kiln shelf is currently supported by one inch posts instead of the two inch posts suggested in the video. Do you think this would accomplish the same thing, or is that too low? What results might I see if clearance underneath the shelf isn't adequate? Thanks for all your fantastic educational resources!
Hello Rae! So glad you're enjoying our videos and are going to give glass a try! That GlazeTech looks like a good kiln. My only comment being to please use the Ramp/Hold mode to program a specific program. Using an automated mode may make too many assumptions and take away control you'll want to have. This makes it especially difficult to trouble-shoot if firing issues arise. Re: the spacing of the shelf off of the kiln floor, we recommend the 2" posts as being a good *minimum* configuration to allow adequate air/heat circulation under the shelf. Especially if your shelf is wide it could make for too much of a top/bottom heat differential across a panel piece risking stress that may damage your work. For larger and deeper works we might recommend even taller posts to ensure even heat distribution. Remember that it's not just about heating-up but also cooling-down for proper annealing. An extra set of posts is a small price to pay to eliminate variables that could impact your firing success. I'll note that we like to use triangular posts as they are easy to securely stack. Good luck and please keep us "posted" (see what I did there?) - Team Bullseye
I'm a brand new beginner... are those temperatures and hold times true for all glass kilns? Or will some kilns need to use different temperatures and hold times? Great video!!
For the exact projects being demo'ed the schedule would not necessarily change because of the kiln per se but you would want to be concerned to know that the kiln is actually able to deliver that schedule. Power, thermocouple accuracy, element design, and insulation are just a few factors affecting how well a given kiln is able to deliver the schedule that is programmed in to it. For those reasons it's ideal that you be able to profile your kiln but most realistically always run firing tests for a given set-up to determine if it's getting you the result you need. Over time you'll learn if compensation for your kiln's behavior needs to be built into the program. If you want to dive deeper there are a lot of good conversations happening over at our Facebook community. facebook.com/groups/BullseyeGlassCommunity/
Broadly speaking, I'd have to say no. Unless you know that the glass was specifically formulated to be fusing compatible then any glasses of different colors or even different sheets of the same color could not be expected to reliably fuse together. Also, glasses that are not designed for fusing can have unexpected color changes when fused. It's that consistent reliability in fusing behavior that makes the 'secret sauce' that goes Bullseye Compatible glasses. If what you have is just scrap I don't want to discourage you from experimenting but you may find the time invested not worth discovering mystery behavior of your materials. Thanks!
Low on Leadership! It's all about how much time you need to ❤️ in peace ✌️ with group Said Ge Gentleman! Love ❤️ bullseye Glass Gentleman! ok sounds nice 👍! For he Was A Ge Gentleman Sir! Have A good Day! Tell them he Was a gentleman who walked away from Them! Amen 🙏 Godbless ! Amen God bless
The most helpful video I have seen in basic understanding of how glass works and fusing schedules. Thank you!
Thanks Bev!
Hi Len, This is a longer video that really goes in depth about the nuances of layering glass sheets to make patterns. it is a very popular kiln method. these sheets can then be slumped into a mold at lower temperatures to become a shape other than flat pattern. I will send you that video as well.
Thanks. But my name isn't Len.
@terri b, it's going to be impossible for you to anneal your glass properly without a pyrometer. Glass is very susceptible to changes in temperature (thermal shock) and if it is not annealed properly using a specific schedule it will likely crack or explode or hold unnecessary stress that will make it much more susceptible to breaking or even exploding further down the road. Get yourself a good programmable kiln!
This is good if you have a few thousand dollars or more in your slush fund? I use a manual kiln and pyrometer. My kiln has infinite Power switches, this gives me excellent control over the fire. Depending on how many times you fire and temperature you must replace your thermocouple, this can be checked using pyrometric cones to verify
temperature.
You seem to know something about this whole glass business. I need to do something really simple and need a no nonsense way to go about it with no kiln. What I need done it to fuse the top of a drinking glass with a flat piece of class on the top, effectively making the inside of the drinking glass a hermetic seal. How would you go about this? I'm thinking a blowtorch and glass powder.
What a professional video.
Thanks!
Great comprehensive video. thanks
Thanks Beth! Plenty more where that came from on both CZcams and our subscription offerings. www.bullseyeglass.com/methods-ideas/index-of-videos.html
Hello!
I'm a ceramicist starting a new adventure in art glass. My little kiln has the power and precision to do more or less whatever I want with it (Skutt GlazeTech with a touchscreen controller upgrade), but my kiln shelf is currently supported by one inch posts instead of the two inch posts suggested in the video. Do you think this would accomplish the same thing, or is that too low? What results might I see if clearance underneath the shelf isn't adequate?
Thanks for all your fantastic educational resources!
Hello Rae!
So glad you're enjoying our videos and are going to give glass a try!
That GlazeTech looks like a good kiln. My only comment being to please use the Ramp/Hold mode to program a specific program. Using an automated mode may make too many assumptions and take away control you'll want to have. This makes it especially difficult to trouble-shoot if firing issues arise.
Re: the spacing of the shelf off of the kiln floor, we recommend the 2" posts as being a good *minimum* configuration to allow adequate air/heat circulation under the shelf. Especially if your shelf is wide it could make for too much of a top/bottom heat differential across a panel piece risking stress that may damage your work.
For larger and deeper works we might recommend even taller posts to ensure even heat distribution. Remember that it's not just about heating-up but also cooling-down for proper annealing. An extra set of posts is a small price to pay to eliminate variables that could impact your firing success.
I'll note that we like to use triangular posts as they are easy to securely stack.
Good luck and please keep us "posted" (see what I did there?)
- Team Bullseye
Very well done!
Informational and complete. Thank you.
You're welcome!
i don't have a pyrometer on my kiln, how can i tell what stages i am in? all i have are two peepholes to view
Good info for beginners
Thanks!
I'm a brand new beginner... are those temperatures and hold times true for all glass kilns? Or will some kilns need to use different temperatures and hold times? Great video!!
For the exact projects being demo'ed the schedule would not necessarily change because of the kiln per se but you would want to be concerned to know that the kiln is actually able to deliver that schedule. Power, thermocouple accuracy, element design, and insulation are just a few factors affecting how well a given kiln is able to deliver the schedule that is programmed in to it. For those reasons it's ideal that you be able to profile your kiln but most realistically always run firing tests for a given set-up to determine if it's getting you the result you need. Over time you'll learn if compensation for your kiln's behavior needs to be built into the program.
If you want to dive deeper there are a lot of good conversations happening over at our Facebook community. facebook.com/groups/BullseyeGlassCommunity/
@@BullseyeGlass thank you!
thanks for your video..!! appriecate
You're quite welcome!
I'm a total beginner, I make stained glass mosaics, though. I would like to know whether I can use my stained glass scraps for fusing. Thanks!
Broadly speaking, I'd have to say no. Unless you know that the glass was specifically formulated to be fusing compatible then any glasses of different colors or even different sheets of the same color could not be expected to reliably fuse together.
Also, glasses that are not designed for fusing can have unexpected color changes when fused.
It's that consistent reliability in fusing behavior that makes the 'secret sauce' that goes Bullseye Compatible glasses.
If what you have is just scrap I don't want to discourage you from experimenting but you may find the time invested not worth discovering mystery behavior of your materials.
Thanks!
Soaking times longest in Softball forever my princess 👸! Amen God Bless!
beauty
Glass blowing is hard for me
Then you'll definitely want to give your lungs a rest and try kiln-forming!
Low on Leadership! It's all about how much time you need to ❤️ in peace ✌️ with group Said Ge Gentleman! Love ❤️ bullseye Glass Gentleman! ok sounds nice 👍! For he Was A Ge Gentleman Sir! Have A good Day! Tell them he Was a gentleman who walked away from Them! Amen 🙏 Godbless ! Amen God bless
Fs