This is the most informative scythe video that I have come across! Most others are just footage of people scything with no explanation or pre-instruction. Thank you so much for starting from the very beginning!
Dude.....hands down you have the best instructional etc. videos out there. I don't think a video can be done any better than that one. Fantastic job.👍👊
MrPocketfullOfSteel Hahaha--thanks for the kind words! This is just a super-simplified overview, but I hope it helps folks get started! The guide linked in the description goes into much greater detail, and it will be updated as often as we're able to make it even more comprehensive. :)
This is the very finest basic guide to scything. I would recommend this enthusiastically to anyone who wants to learn about the basic functions of the American scythe.
Glad you've found it helpful! There is, of course, much more to it once you dive in and get a feel for things, so we suggest looking at the guide linked in the video description, but it conceptually boils down to these basics! :)
Love this vid. The way you stand and hold your scythe is like a soldier with a gun - disciplined and respectful. You take care of the tool really careful and use it with the proper techniques. Thumbs up!
OMG! I recently bought the Seymour aluminum snath and blade and this is the best video on every step of understanding how to fit to my body. I like that you pointed out the three holes on the snath and the difference in cutting it will produce. Great teaching of every step of the process. Thank you for making this video.
Glad it was helpful! If you even need you blade ground properly or the tang angle adjusted for your height, feel free to contact us--we do mail-in servicing! Also, for more in-depth reading, take a look at our written guide here: site.baryonyxknife.com/blog/2014/08/10/a-primer-on-the-selection-use-maintenance-of-the-american-scythe/
Wow, what an amazing, concise and clear video! Thanks! Thanks to the video I've already calibrated the nibs to my height and span -- now to go practice the strokes! Awesome.
+Rebecca Riel Glad to hear it's of assistance! You may also find the guide listed in the video description helpful, as well as our video on grinding and honing. :) czcams.com/video/yK8KVgM7WAM/video.html
VERY HELPFUL! Thank you! I needed to mow some ragweed that had gotten out of control, and after looking at the prices of sicklebar mowers and the problems many of them have with the cutting bars, and high cost of parts, I decided to take another look at the old american sickle that has been in my barn since who knows when. I didn't know exactly how to attach the head or adjust the handles or hold it correctly. After your video I went out and cut weeds for a good hour and it works great. And I need the exercise anyway : )
After further use of my scythe, I have a question. Is the blade supposed to have that odd angle to the ground? My blades edge is at least at a 45 degree angle to the ground whereas a lawn mower blade is parallel to the ground. Is the scythe blade supposed to be bent somehow? Need a different snathe? Need to be wedged or something? Or is it supposed to be that way?
The tang is intended to be heated and bent to create a proper lay for the snath and dimensions of the user. In use the edge should ride about a finger's thickness off the ground, as a rule of thumb (or finger, in this case!) In lawn use the lay should be a little lower, and in weedy growth a slightly more upward lay is desired. The specific angle you use is however much it takes to bring the edge to its appropriate lay. czcams.com/video/9_SozAN6aOs/video.html
Thanks for this video it shows how to fit and how it cuts. I always thought the tip cuts the grass but this shows that more of the middle and end cuts the grass. I have my Grandmas scythe and it is about 100 years old and am just starting to use it. Thanks very helpful
Hi Joel, I got mine form this location, scythesupply.com/outfits.html. It’s not that difficult to use, its a lot of work, and you have to stop and sharpen it all the time. Keep your bolts tight and keep an eye on them or your lose one and never find it. Good luck and enjoy.
Thanks for this! Quick, simple and to the point. I got some real old blades and shipped em in to be sharpened a while back, I'm trying to hone em but I think they're pretty beat up. Or maybe I don't have the snath fit right, angle seems off. I really think though this is the way to go.
When it shows it working even when moved very slowly is a very good point. If it won’t do that, take an afternoon and get comfortable with a calm, and MINDFUL sharpening routine.
Simple--at whatever angle best minimizes strain on the elbows and wrists! Usually the left hand nib will point a little more upward than the right, as this helps in stability and resisting any torque on the scythe that might occur in use.
Thank you very much for the video. Just boought an old wooden scythe and it has this three hole interface. Whats a decent size and brand grass blade for a 5'9" person and any recommendation on a good place to buy it from would be awesome.
We're actually the global specialist in American scythes! In addition to vintage blades, we also carry newly made ones like the Seymour Midwest model shown. To the best of my knowledge we're the only retailer doing tang angle adjustment and edge grinding.
Great Video and Job. I use the "European" Scythe for grass and weeds. You did an excellent job cutting the grass with the "American" Scythe. Too bad the large wet stone grinders are a thing of the past or probably just to expensive today.
D. Apple Thanks for the kind words! As far as wet grinders go, you might be surprised! they're more expensive than peening equipment, it's true, but they have the benefit of being able to be used on a much wider array of homesteading tools. We carry a nice manual one here: www.baryonyxknife.com/anbmagrwh.html
FortyTwoBlades I think its great you what you are doing for the American Scythe. Thanks for the wet stone link- how would a single person use it ? Would you need some sort of peddle power - maybe you can show a video using it. Thanks
D. Apple A pedal would certainly be the easiest way to operate it yourself. All that's required to convert it to pedal power is to attach a tie rod from the crank to a hinged pedal on whatever table you bolt it to. Very simply done! We'll eventually be putting together a short video on how to do the conversion. :)
Love your videos. I'm just getting started with a used scythe and poor access to sharpening gear. I'd love it if you could post a video showing how to grind with a file.
I need a long handled scythe to chop some weeds down on a steep bank by my creek that I can't get to...weed wackers and mowers are a no go on the bank...where would I get a good quality scythe?
Patrick King We carry a selection of American scythe gear here: www.baryonyxknife.com/scac.html We have a bunch of vintage blades and snaths that aren't on the website that just need a quick bit of work in our workshop before they're ready to go, so if you don't see what you're looking for feel free to send us an email to inquire! :)
I’m thinking about getting one of these Seymour scythes. I use Austrian scythes and have for a few years. I’m just struggling to find information on the length of snath. The no8 suggests it’s good for people up to 5’10.5. And I’m 5’11. Would it be worth getting a longer snath? A company over here (uk) makes a no9 which measures longer. I’ve really been enjoying your videos and reading some comments sharing your knowledge.
The next video that came up was ‘mowing with a child scythe’. So I could probably adapt my technique. And my arm-torso-leg-stance ratio may well work well enough for a no8 snath. None the less your input would be great!
@@Channel1rm the No.9 is also made by Seymour and is exported to the UK, where it is sold under a private label by the importing tool company, though I forget off the top of my head which one is doing it. Perhaps it was Bulldog? In any case, the length is nigh-identical to the No.8. If you cannot source a snath that is optimum for your measurements, it is, indeed, possible to alter your technique, as well as introducing a greater angle to the tang when heating/bending it, and rotating the nibs into a more upright position than they normally would be, along with a "dropped" stance.
Wait! Those are LEFT handed threads? Ok.. that explains a lot... I'm headed out to the garage now.. finally, I can adjust the nibs. Are you sure you weren't a Navy HT? We like to do wood and metal work... you would have fit right in with us :) I also learned a great deal from Navy molders and pattern makers... true craftsmen. Thank you again... I subbed, so many great videos!
Once in a very great while you'll come across a snath with a standard right-handed thread on the nibs, but they're all late-period ones that were trying to be cheap, particularly ones by the Eastern Handle Co., but easily something like 99%+ will be left handed threads as it helped prevent loosening in use. :)
FortyTwoBlades The blade on my scythe appears hand wrought and I've determined that it was setup for someone who was very short. I have ordered a new metal snath so I can set it properly for my height and the blade angle I want. All very interesting.. thank you again and again... I will also check out your website...
Pretty much all blades from the early 1800's and onward were factory manufactured, but it was a process that still required great skill on the part of the workmen. The typical apprenticeship period for a fellow training to be a line production scythe forger was five years!
Wow, now that I've been introduced to the world of scything, I almost want to get one. The only problem is I don't have a use for one and I'd probably mess up the blade when peening it, but it looks like fun and it definitely beats those rotary push mowers. I'm still not entirely sure if it's more cost effective in the long run or not.
DO NOT peen American pattern scythes! Their harder steel isn't meant for it. While it's technically possible to peen SOME American blades, it's neither necessary nor recommended practice, since many vintage blades are laminated construction and you'd ruin the edge by peening it because you'd end up with a single-beveled edge like a chisel that was made of the soft cladding iron instead of the high-hardness steel core. American blades are beveled both front and back so that the apex of the edge rides in the middle of the web (the flat span between the edge and rib along the back) and whole-steel blades are best treated as if they are laminated because it doesn't hurt them any and ensures that you are already used to treating laminated blades properly if you end up owning one in the future. :)
Thanks to this video I now go door to door asking people if they need their lawns cut while dressed as the reaper...... I think I need another approach because all I get are screams.
Thanks for sharing this. Not being critical, just curious: I appreciate your sizing advice, it's just that i see you bending slightly, would it not be better to have a slightly longer scythe so you can keep your back straight? A day of what you're doing there would kill my back :\
You'll notice that the back isn't bent, but rather that it's a slight forward tilt from the hips. This is necessary both for setting your advance and to avoid locking the legs. It also has the benefits of widening the swath and permitting more power in the stroke. The back should be straight during all of this, and you shouldn't experience any back strain from doing so.
That's what some people call "hinge hips and table back". www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2018/02/26/587735283/lost-art-of-bending-over-how-other-cultures-spare-their-spines
Haha--well it's just a general guideline to get you in the right ballpark. What works for each individual user will vary slightly. What matters most is being comfortable.
So you don't have to deal with the weight of the scythe because it's sliding on the ground? In most videos I've seen, they are swinging it like a machete.
Yeah most folks use them VERY wrong, in both that respect and in many others. It should be more like sweeping with a broom. In some advanced circumstances the blade is used off the ground, but the rule of thumb, especially for beginners who are prone to holding the blade in the air for fear of damaging the blade, keep it on the ground.
Ну капец! Автор крут, как Чак Норрис :))) Более навороченную косу я видел только у своего приятеля в юношестве, тот занимался разведением кроликов и косил для них недельный белый клевер. Вот что-то похожее было, только ручка из очень кривой рябины, рукоятки - ветки, сама коса - литовка 1 номер. Подгонял идеально под себя и никому в руки не давал. Косил тоже как бог.
It would depend on the specific country. Shipping is not inexpensive due to the size of the package, but if interested in a shipping quote feel free to send us an email at sales@baryonyxknife.com
American scythe snaths were made in both steam-bent ash and aluminum (as well as some made from steel) and the one in this video is a Seymour No.8 aluminum snath. Adjusting the snath to fit the user is extremely important for ergonomics and efficiency.
@@FortyTwoBlades Thank you and the American scythe is adjustable by the handles? It does not appear that the Austrian can be adjusted? You have a lot of information on scythe.
Great video packed with lots of information! I got this wooden scythe (it's USA Made from Amazon.com) and the nibs/grips are shellacked on. I can't loosen them to adjust them. I've tried using a monkey wrench to twist the grips off (I put heavy box cardboard between the monkey wrench jaws and the wooden grips so that the grips don't crack or get torn apart by the wrench). The monkey wrench with the cardboard after a while just slips around the grips. I'm sure that the reason lies in the shellac. Would I need to get some kind of shellac remover? Has anyone experienced the same problem? Maybe I can get a rubber mallet, and try to hammer the grips loose? :-/
I just took a closer look at the grips, you're correct: the thread and nut of both grips appear to have been ground down coarsely, and the excess thread materials smeared over the top of each nut making it difficult- if not impossible- to loosen the grips. Wow, I wish I knew about this *before* I bought the snath from Amazon.com. :-(
Providing it hasn't been used yet they at least have a good returns policy, so you'd be covered there. You can consider the product as defective the way they currently come from the factory. Perhaps someday someone other than us will get in on the game with putting them together right, but for now we're the only source in the world for modern production wooden American snaths that are done right. The aluminum snaths also have the issue with the nibs and they install the bolt that secures the heel plate upside down for some reason, but those are more easily corrected by the end user than the snath itself being shaped wonky and/or having a crooked collar!
Very often the problem folks face is a combination of not only the blade not being sufficiently sharp, but more specifically also not being *thin* enough and not laying close enough to the ground. With the tang angle properly set for the user the edge should be riding about a finger's thickness from the ground and the edge should be 7-9° per side with a crisp apex but coarse scratch pattern.
So you assume the horse stance and commence tai chi with a scythe. This a great idea, one could charge people to join your exercise class and have your grass cut at the same time.
Cost depends on the particular snath (handle) and blade combination. Shipping to India may be very expensive, so we would suggest organizing a group order if you're able. You may peruse our selection on www.byxco.com and contact us from there regarding a quote.
Either a weed blade or Western weight grass blade. The additional blade width makes it easier to cut through the clumps without bottoming the rib of the blade out.
could I cut normal grass with the weed blade as well? I'm trying to trim a small area behind my fence with that is about 2/3 normal grass and 1/3 crab grass, and I already own a seymour snath so I could use a blade that would fit on it?
Probably a "Dutch-heeled" grass blade would be best for that circumstance, but you can definitely cut regular grass with a weed blade. They're just not able to handle as large of a volume per stroke due to their shorter length.
The blade on this one is vintage so I wouldn't be able to tell you the steel composition, but the usual for modern blades is 1080 carbon steel or equivalent. Low-alloy high-carbon steel at 55-58 RC
@@FortyTwoBlades In the mid-70's in Coastal NC we used to call it a "Bush hook". When I saw the movie I instantly recognized it as the "Bush hooks" we'd used to clear lot lines and the banks of streams & ditches. Its pattern is similar to the Japanese "Naginata" weapon, but with a shorter handle. It takes out everything up to small saplings in one stroke and can do real damage to a leg (lots of blood)😨
There's a number of differences, both in blades and in snaths. English blades have a different tang style, for starters, being of essentially untapered form as if simply made from a bent piece of rectangular bar, which makes them easier to heat and bend to the proper angle, but causes them to often need a "grass nail" to brace the blade so the tang doesn't bend in use. One or two holes are often present in the heel of English blades for the hook end of the grass nail to hook into, with the other end screwed to the neck of the snath. English blades are also generally broader than American ones, and have only a plain web with a single rib down the back, that typically ends in a taper at the toe rather than being somewhat "flat-ended" like the rib on American blades. Like American blades, they may be laminated construction, and fully forged examples features a raised ridge, or "crest" on the underside of the toe for additional strength. However, a great many English blades are of two-part riveted construction with a blade of press-formed cutlery steel riveted to a tang and back. Very few American blades were ever made in multi-part construction, and those that were didn't use the same approach as the English "patent" riveted blades. Forged English blades are also called "crown" blades. English blades tend to be more curved towards the toe and more straight towards the heel, while American blades usually favor the reverse relationship, with a gradual open curve along the toe and mid of the blade and a more tight curve towards the heel, often broadening there with what was called a "Dutch heel". English blades are usually of "true taper" with the blade remaining a fairly uniform width along its length excepting, of course, at the tapered union of the spine and edge at the blade's point. English snaths were of a great many styles, but most of them were much less curved than the American sort, and many had only a single nib (though see also: Scottish snaths.) Traditional English means of affixing both the nib(s) and blade were by means of a ring and wedge. This was simple to make, but the wedges often loosened and fell out. Twist-to-tighten nibs, the loop bolt method of fastening, and the heavily recurved snath form were all 19th Century American inventions, by Joseph & Erasmus S. Clapp, Pinckney Frost, and Silas Lamson, respectively, and the combination of these inventions is what gave rise to the modern American pattern of snath. While American snath fastening and adjustment hardware does vary considerably, the overwhelming majority use the loop bolt method of fastening, and virtually all used some variation of twist-to-tighten nibs. Very nearly all made use of the recurved Lamson-type shaft. The development of the American snath led UK firms to import them in so great a quantity that American snaths essentially supplanted the domestic styles, and a number of UK firms also started producing their own self-described "American pattern" snaths. So most "English" scythes you see today are, in fact, English pattern blades on American pattern snaths (whether manufactured in the UK or imported from America.)
@@FortyTwoBlades Thank you for the very good explanation. Simply trying to see the difference from CZcams makes them seem alike but your very concise explanation shows that they are different in many ways.
Then what you are probably used to seeing are English blades on American snaths. Upon their development in their modern form in the 1800s they were exported to the UK where they largely supplanted traditional English snath patterns.
FortyTwoBlades all I really know about it is that all the scythes I encountered hanging up in barns (some quite worm eaten) had ‘snaths’ with a double curve & two handles, however in the last twenty years or so we have seen snaths from the eastern parts of Europe brought in which only have a single curve and a considerably longer handle attached in order to overcome the lack of a double curve. You would imagine that each group that emigrated to the Americas took their own style of tools with them so you might expect to see Amish people with the style of scythe I have only recently encountered & a lot of the old scythe blades in America might have been made in British forges and exported like so many other tools were?
This is faster, quieter, can take a larger amount of material per pass, doesn't fling bits of plastic everywhere, and starts every time. It's also supported by the ground so you aren't having to hold the weight of the tool...scythes are overall a superior tool for most contexts.
We cannot economically send snaths (handles) to India due to length restrictions. We could arrange bulk purchasing, though it would be fairly expensive.
Naaaa... At first glance it really seems easier than the ones with a longer handle! But in fact, those produce a wider movment and more strenght to cut without si much effort to our arms and back. It's the movment of the waist that does everything! I work with one. Excelent exercise for the legs, butt and arms! And fun too! I love it! 🤠🌺
Actually, the whole body is used in the stroke. I own and use many different global versions of scythes, and it's definitely not just the movement of the body. In fact, there's far more strength in the cut with less energy expenditure with American scythes thanks to the blade weight being more appropriate for most cutting tasks than most Euro-style blades, creating a flywheel effect that flattens the effort curve over the length of the stroke. The snath length on these is a standard 58-60" but we also have a single-nib snath for tall folks that's 78", though single-nibbed snaths are inherently longer than two-nibbed varieties. :)
Well, it's not a weapon, so I'm not sure why you'd be expecting that. I'd take a hay fork over a scythe if pressing farm tools into weapons usage, though during the time of slavery there are records of escaped slaves using scythe blades as defensive weapons by grasping them by the tang.
The "European" blade is lighter, more finicky and more easily severely damaged than the "American" blade. Imagine hitting a rock or sump hard with the European blade. The blade will need major repair. The American blade would probably just need to be refiled.
D. Apple American blades can still get nicks or chips, but it's true that they can take a much heavier beating without catastrophic damage! The heavier build allows the blades to handle thicker targets than their European counterparts without complaint, even with long grass blades (handy when mowing fields of mixed growth.) The heavier weight is actually to advantage in thick growth, as something of a flywheel effect is produced to help spread out the force of the stroke, minimizing spikes in exertion. That being said, a good scythe is a good scythe and while the American pattern is our preference we do have an appreciation for the European variety as well. :)
+Bulletstop75 They're not inexpensive, but a heck of a tool. Wouldn't want to ever be without one! I use them for just about everything, including setting small rivets!
Absolutely false. English scythes are of a distinctly different style altogether, and I have a number of them in my personal collection. The American style of snath was developed in the early 1800's and was then exported in significant volume to the UK, where it largely supplanted local snath styles, and was then copied by some snath manufacturers, many of them even going so far as to describe their UK-made snaths as "American type". The blades are significantly different, as well, especially in the form of the tang, but in nearly all other elements, as well, and anyone familiar with the two different styles may immediately tell them apart at a moment's glance. Please do your research before making such wildly inaccurate claims.
This is the most informative scythe video that I have come across! Most others are just footage of people scything with no explanation or pre-instruction. Thank you so much for starting from the very beginning!
Dude.....hands down you have the best instructional etc. videos out there. I don't think a video can be done any better than that one. Fantastic job.👍👊
MrPocketfullOfSteel Hahaha--thanks for the kind words! This is just a super-simplified overview, but I hope it helps folks get started! The guide linked in the description goes into much greater detail, and it will be updated as often as we're able to make it even more comprehensive. :)
This is the very finest basic guide to scything. I would recommend this enthusiastically to anyone who wants to learn about the basic functions of the American scythe.
Glad you've found it helpful! There is, of course, much more to it once you dive in and get a feel for things, so we suggest looking at the guide linked in the video description, but it conceptually boils down to these basics! :)
Love this vid. The way you stand and hold your scythe is like a soldier with a gun - disciplined and respectful. You take care of the tool really careful and use it with the proper techniques. Thumbs up!
OMG! I recently bought the Seymour aluminum snath and blade and this is the best video on every step of understanding how to fit to my body. I like that you pointed out the three holes on the snath and the difference in cutting it will produce. Great teaching of every step of the process. Thank you for making this video.
Glad it was helpful! If you even need you blade ground properly or the tang angle adjusted for your height, feel free to contact us--we do mail-in servicing! Also, for more in-depth reading, take a look at our written guide here:
site.baryonyxknife.com/blog/2014/08/10/a-primer-on-the-selection-use-maintenance-of-the-american-scythe/
Thanks for the reply and further information. Keep up the good work!
Wow, what an amazing, concise and clear video! Thanks! Thanks to the video I've already calibrated the nibs to my height and span -- now to go practice the strokes!
Awesome.
+Rebecca Riel Glad to hear it's of assistance! You may also find the guide listed in the video description helpful, as well as our video on grinding and honing. :)
czcams.com/video/yK8KVgM7WAM/video.html
what a great video. far more knowledge relayed than the several others I went thru to find my way here.
thank you
Excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to put theses videos together. 👍
Thank you for making a great video on the American style scythe!!! I could only find the European versions! 😎 I'll be cutting hay this weekend!
VERY HELPFUL! Thank you! I needed to mow some ragweed that had gotten out of control, and after looking at the prices of sicklebar mowers and the problems many of them have with the cutting bars, and high cost of parts, I decided to take another look at the old american sickle that has been in my barn since who knows when. I didn't know exactly how to attach the head or adjust the handles or hold it correctly. After your video I went out and cut weeds for a good hour and it works great. And I need the exercise anyway : )
Happy it was of use!
After further use of my scythe, I have a question. Is the blade supposed to have that odd angle to the ground? My blades edge is at least at a 45 degree angle to the ground whereas a lawn mower blade is parallel to the ground. Is the scythe blade supposed to be bent somehow? Need a different snathe? Need to be wedged or something? Or is it supposed to be that way?
The tang is intended to be heated and bent to create a proper lay for the snath and dimensions of the user. In use the edge should ride about a finger's thickness off the ground, as a rule of thumb (or finger, in this case!) In lawn use the lay should be a little lower, and in weedy growth a slightly more upward lay is desired. The specific angle you use is however much it takes to bring the edge to its appropriate lay.
czcams.com/video/9_SozAN6aOs/video.html
dkeith45 h vxjm
Thanks for the tips. Your form is impecable. please make more videos.
An incredibly useful and informative video. Thank you.
You single?
Thanks for this video it shows how to fit and how it cuts. I always thought the tip cuts the grass but this shows that more of the middle and end cuts the grass.
I have my Grandmas scythe and it is about 100 years old and am just starting to use it.
Thanks very helpful
Great video, I should be getting my scythe in about 10 days. I’m sure I’ll watch this a few more times.
Where can I order one?
Hi Joel, I got mine form this location, scythesupply.com/outfits.html. It’s not that difficult to use, its a lot of work, and you have to stop and sharpen it all the time. Keep your bolts tight and keep an eye on them or your lose one and never find it. Good luck and enjoy.
Thanks for this! Quick, simple and to the point. I got some real old blades and shipped em in to be sharpened a while back, I'm trying to hone em but I think they're pretty beat up. Or maybe I don't have the snath fit right, angle seems off. I really think though this is the way to go.
Thank you very much for your video I can dismount in the correct manner (the handles) to restoration, that I just bought. To do excercise
Thanks I can't wait.
When it shows it working even when moved very slowly is a very good point.
If it won’t do that, take an afternoon and get comfortable with a calm, and MINDFUL sharpening routine.
Exactly! If it's not cutting at slow speed, it's not sharp and/or thin enough!
Estou bestifica com a classe em que esse rapaz manuseia esta foice. Parabéns!!! Não vi outro melhor
informative and to the point
Most useful. Well done.
Everyone else can just stop. This guy perfected the scythe video.
Great explanation on the height at which to set the nibs, but at what orbit should they be set as well?
Simple--at whatever angle best minimizes strain on the elbows and wrists! Usually the left hand nib will point a little more upward than the right, as this helps in stability and resisting any torque on the scythe that might occur in use.
Magnífica parabéns. Grande abraço Brasil
Thank you very much for the video. Just boought an old wooden scythe and it has this three hole interface. Whats a decent size and brand grass blade for a 5'9" person and any recommendation on a good place to buy it from would be awesome.
We're actually the global specialist in American scythes! In addition to vintage blades, we also carry newly made ones like the Seymour Midwest model shown. To the best of my knowledge we're the only retailer doing tang angle adjustment and edge grinding.
Great Video and Job. I use the "European" Scythe for grass and weeds. You did an excellent job cutting the grass with the "American" Scythe. Too bad the large wet stone grinders are a thing of the past or probably just to expensive today.
D. Apple Thanks for the kind words! As far as wet grinders go, you might be surprised! they're more expensive than peening equipment, it's true, but they have the benefit of being able to be used on a much wider array of homesteading tools. We carry a nice manual one here: www.baryonyxknife.com/anbmagrwh.html
FortyTwoBlades I think its great you what you are doing for the American Scythe. Thanks for the wet stone link- how would a single person use it ? Would you need some sort of peddle power - maybe you can show a video using it. Thanks
D. Apple A pedal would certainly be the easiest way to operate it yourself. All that's required to convert it to pedal power is to attach a tie rod from the crank to a hinged pedal on whatever table you bolt it to. Very simply done! We'll eventually be putting together a short video on how to do the conversion. :)
never saw scythe in real, how sharp this tool actually
Like a straight razor for grass. Should be able to cut short grass at low speed. :)
Love your videos. I'm just getting started with a used scythe and poor access to sharpening gear. I'd love it if you could post a video showing how to grind with a file.
+Juan Sebastián Estrada Never mind, just found your Q&A video!
+Juan Sebastián Estrada We'll put out a better one when we're able, but it's a matter of finding the time. :)
Well Done
Super, absolut Profi!
This thing is cool as hell! Where can I buy one?? Any recommendations on brands?
We're THE global specialist in the American pattern scythe. :)
www.baryonyxknife.com/scac.html
I need a long handled scythe to chop some weeds down on a steep bank by my creek that I can't get to...weed wackers and mowers are a no go on the bank...where would I get a good quality scythe?
Patrick King We carry a selection of American scythe gear here: www.baryonyxknife.com/scac.html
We have a bunch of vintage blades and snaths that aren't on the website that just need a quick bit of work in our workshop before they're ready to go, so if you don't see what you're looking for feel free to send us an email to inquire! :)
I’m thinking about getting one of these Seymour scythes. I use Austrian scythes and have for a few years. I’m just struggling to find information on the length of snath. The no8 suggests it’s good for people up to 5’10.5. And I’m 5’11. Would it be worth getting a longer snath? A company over here (uk) makes a no9 which measures longer.
I’ve really been enjoying your videos and reading some comments sharing your knowledge.
The next video that came up was ‘mowing with a child scythe’. So I could probably adapt my technique. And my arm-torso-leg-stance ratio may well work well enough for a no8 snath. None the less your input would be great!
@@Channel1rm the No.9 is also made by Seymour and is exported to the UK, where it is sold under a private label by the importing tool company, though I forget off the top of my head which one is doing it. Perhaps it was Bulldog? In any case, the length is nigh-identical to the No.8. If you cannot source a snath that is optimum for your measurements, it is, indeed, possible to alter your technique, as well as introducing a greater angle to the tang when heating/bending it, and rotating the nibs into a more upright position than they normally would be, along with a "dropped" stance.
THANK YOU!
very good vid. The link to the blog also necessary to us beginners. Link to the store would be much appreciated.
www.baryonyxknife.com/scac.html
I can only assume that the people who disliked this video were upset that their bubbles of admiration for the scythe as a weapon were burst...
Wait! Those are LEFT handed threads? Ok.. that explains a lot... I'm headed out to the garage now.. finally, I can adjust the nibs. Are you sure you weren't a Navy HT? We like to do wood and metal work... you would have fit right in with us :) I also learned a great deal from Navy molders and pattern makers... true craftsmen. Thank you again... I subbed, so many great videos!
Once in a very great while you'll come across a snath with a standard right-handed thread on the nibs, but they're all late-period ones that were trying to be cheap, particularly ones by the Eastern Handle Co., but easily something like 99%+ will be left handed threads as it helped prevent loosening in use. :)
FortyTwoBlades The blade on my scythe appears hand wrought and I've determined that it was setup for someone who was very short. I have ordered a new metal snath so I can set it properly for my height and the blade angle I want. All very interesting.. thank you again and again... I will also check out your website...
Pretty much all blades from the early 1800's and onward were factory manufactured, but it was a process that still required great skill on the part of the workmen. The typical apprenticeship period for a fellow training to be a line production scythe forger was five years!
FortyTwoBlades Very interesting... thanks
i need to buy one
sei un grande ciao
Wow, now that I've been introduced to the world of scything, I almost want to get one. The only problem is I don't have a use for one and I'd probably mess up the blade when peening it, but it looks like fun and it definitely beats those rotary push mowers. I'm still not entirely sure if it's more cost effective in the long run or not.
DO NOT peen American pattern scythes! Their harder steel isn't meant for it. While it's technically possible to peen SOME American blades, it's neither necessary nor recommended practice, since many vintage blades are laminated construction and you'd ruin the edge by peening it because you'd end up with a single-beveled edge like a chisel that was made of the soft cladding iron instead of the high-hardness steel core. American blades are beveled both front and back so that the apex of the edge rides in the middle of the web (the flat span between the edge and rib along the back) and whole-steel blades are best treated as if they are laminated because it doesn't hurt them any and ensures that you are already used to treating laminated blades properly if you end up owning one in the future. :)
@@FortyTwoBlades See? I would've messed up the blade with peening! Does one take care of an American blade with just honing then?
Thanks to this video I now go door to door asking people if they need their lawns cut while dressed as the reaper...... I think I need another approach because all I get are screams.
Stupid!!
You should say hello first before asking!
Come to me and I'll provide you a thousands and thousands of acres to mow
Thanks for sharing this. Not being critical, just curious: I appreciate your sizing advice, it's just that i see you bending slightly, would it not be better to have a slightly longer scythe so you can keep your back straight? A day of what you're doing there would kill my back :\
You'll notice that the back isn't bent, but rather that it's a slight forward tilt from the hips. This is necessary both for setting your advance and to avoid locking the legs. It also has the benefits of widening the swath and permitting more power in the stroke. The back should be straight during all of this, and you shouldn't experience any back strain from doing so.
That's what some people call "hinge hips and table back". www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2018/02/26/587735283/lost-art-of-bending-over-how-other-cultures-spare-their-spines
I've been doing it wrong all my life. I had the nib 1" below my armpit instead of 1.5"
Haha--well it's just a general guideline to get you in the right ballpark. What works for each individual user will vary slightly. What matters most is being comfortable.
Gut gemacht,👍👍
So you don't have to deal with the weight of the scythe because it's sliding on the ground?
In most videos I've seen, they are swinging it like a machete.
Yeah most folks use them VERY wrong, in both that respect and in many others. It should be more like sweeping with a broom. In some advanced circumstances the blade is used off the ground, but the rule of thumb, especially for beginners who are prone to holding the blade in the air for fear of damaging the blade, keep it on the ground.
Ну капец! Автор крут, как Чак Норрис :))) Более навороченную косу я видел только у своего приятеля в юношестве, тот занимался разведением кроликов и косил для них недельный белый клевер. Вот что-то похожее было, только ручка из очень кривой рябины, рукоятки - ветки, сама коса - литовка 1 номер. Подгонял идеально под себя и никому в руки не давал. Косил тоже как бог.
I need to buy one of these. How do I buy this tool?
www.baryonyxknife.com/scac.html
Do you ship to central América. How much plus shipping an handling. I need one, thanks
It would depend on the specific country. Shipping is not inexpensive due to the size of the package, but if interested in a shipping quote feel free to send us an email at sales@baryonyxknife.com
how is the height of cut grass accomplished or do you have just one height?
You can adjust the lay of the edge with your hand position and stance.
super 👍👍👍
Do you ship to North Carolina?
+Valerie Leuba We absolutely do! :)
I believe I will purchase the Traditional American scythe. It is made of metal? It is better to make adjustments to fit the person?
American scythe snaths were made in both steam-bent ash and aluminum (as well as some made from steel) and the one in this video is a Seymour No.8 aluminum snath. Adjusting the snath to fit the user is extremely important for ergonomics and efficiency.
@@FortyTwoBlades Thank you and the American scythe is adjustable by the handles? It does not appear that the Austrian can be adjusted? You have a lot of information on scythe.
@@FortyTwoBlades I stand 5'8 what number would I want?
sweet. combine plywood box baller. i going make hay goats. though grass lot taller if my bale fall apart. won't cost much have tractor and hay bailer.
Great video packed with lots of information! I got this wooden scythe (it's USA Made from Amazon.com) and the nibs/grips are shellacked on. I can't loosen them to adjust them. I've tried using a monkey wrench to twist the grips off (I put heavy box cardboard between the monkey wrench jaws and the wooden grips so that the grips don't crack or get torn apart by the wrench). The monkey wrench with the cardboard after a while just slips around the grips. I'm sure that the reason lies in the shellac. Would I need to get some kind of shellac remover? Has anyone experienced the same problem? Maybe I can get a rubber mallet, and try to hammer the grips loose? :-/
Thank you very much!
I just took a closer look at the grips, you're correct: the thread and nut of both grips appear to have been ground down coarsely, and the excess thread materials smeared over the top of each nut making it difficult- if not impossible- to loosen the grips. Wow, I wish I knew about this *before* I bought the snath from Amazon.com. :-(
Providing it hasn't been used yet they at least have a good returns policy, so you'd be covered there. You can consider the product as defective the way they currently come from the factory.
Perhaps someday someone other than us will get in on the game with putting them together right, but for now we're the only source in the world for modern production wooden American snaths that are done right. The aluminum snaths also have the issue with the nibs and they install the bolt that secures the heel plate upside down for some reason, but those are more easily corrected by the end user than the snath itself being shaped wonky and/or having a crooked collar!
4:11 This is the important bit for me. Now I know my problem is mainly the sharpness of the blade.
Very often the problem folks face is a combination of not only the blade not being sufficiently sharp, but more specifically also not being *thin* enough and not laying close enough to the ground. With the tang angle properly set for the user the edge should be riding about a finger's thickness from the ground and the edge should be 7-9° per side with a crisp apex but coarse scratch pattern.
So you assume the horse stance and commence tai chi with a scythe. This a great idea, one could charge people to join your exercise class and have your grass cut at the same time.
Marvin Scott Edmonds Enoch It's a whole-body exercise when done right! :)
How many centi meter of the blade?
This blade, being American pattern, is 30 inches in length.
Большое спасибо
за радикулит
Hi I'm Sachin from India, i want this scythe... What is the cost??? & How can I buy it
Cost depends on the particular snath (handle) and blade combination. Shipping to India may be very expensive, so we would suggest organizing a group order if you're able. You may peruse our selection on www.byxco.com and contact us from there regarding a quote.
What type of blade works best for crabgrass???
Either a weed blade or Western weight grass blade. The additional blade width makes it easier to cut through the clumps without bottoming the rib of the blade out.
could I cut normal grass with the weed blade as well? I'm trying to trim a small area behind my fence with that is about 2/3 normal grass and 1/3 crab grass, and I already own a seymour snath so I could use a blade that would fit on it?
Probably a "Dutch-heeled" grass blade would be best for that circumstance, but you can definitely cut regular grass with a weed blade. They're just not able to handle as large of a volume per stroke due to their shorter length.
The blade is made up of with Which iron...??
The blade on this one is vintage so I wouldn't be able to tell you the steel composition, but the usual for modern blades is 1080 carbon steel or equivalent. Low-alloy high-carbon steel at 55-58 RC
will this work on field grass?
Absolutely! See this video:
czcams.com/video/MZbwzYJAFlQ/video.html
Thanks!
what about in Sri Lanka?
+Aissa As Yes--we can!
Como eu consigo uma dessa?????
www.baryonyxknife.com/scac.html
some folks call it a Kaiser blade, I call it a sling blade!
Great movie, but wrong tool. The tool good ol' Billy Bob Thornton used was more commonly known as a ditch bank blade. ;)
@@FortyTwoBlades In the mid-70's in Coastal NC we used to call it a "Bush hook". When I saw the movie I instantly recognized it as the "Bush hooks" we'd used to clear lot lines and the banks of streams & ditches. Its pattern is similar to the Japanese "Naginata" weapon, but with a shorter handle. It takes out everything up to small saplings in one stroke and can do real damage to a leg (lots of blood)😨
What is the difference between the English scythe and the American scythe?
There's a number of differences, both in blades and in snaths.
English blades have a different tang style, for starters, being of essentially untapered form as if simply made from a bent piece of rectangular bar, which makes them easier to heat and bend to the proper angle, but causes them to often need a "grass nail" to brace the blade so the tang doesn't bend in use. One or two holes are often present in the heel of English blades for the hook end of the grass nail to hook into, with the other end screwed to the neck of the snath. English blades are also generally broader than American ones, and have only a plain web with a single rib down the back, that typically ends in a taper at the toe rather than being somewhat "flat-ended" like the rib on American blades. Like American blades, they may be laminated construction, and fully forged examples features a raised ridge, or "crest" on the underside of the toe for additional strength. However, a great many English blades are of two-part riveted construction with a blade of press-formed cutlery steel riveted to a tang and back. Very few American blades were ever made in multi-part construction, and those that were didn't use the same approach as the English "patent" riveted blades. Forged English blades are also called "crown" blades. English blades tend to be more curved towards the toe and more straight towards the heel, while American blades usually favor the reverse relationship, with a gradual open curve along the toe and mid of the blade and a more tight curve towards the heel, often broadening there with what was called a "Dutch heel". English blades are usually of "true taper" with the blade remaining a fairly uniform width along its length excepting, of course, at the tapered union of the spine and edge at the blade's point.
English snaths were of a great many styles, but most of them were much less curved than the American sort, and many had only a single nib (though see also: Scottish snaths.) Traditional English means of affixing both the nib(s) and blade were by means of a ring and wedge. This was simple to make, but the wedges often loosened and fell out. Twist-to-tighten nibs, the loop bolt method of fastening, and the heavily recurved snath form were all 19th Century American inventions, by Joseph & Erasmus S. Clapp, Pinckney Frost, and Silas Lamson, respectively, and the combination of these inventions is what gave rise to the modern American pattern of snath. While American snath fastening and adjustment hardware does vary considerably, the overwhelming majority use the loop bolt method of fastening, and virtually all used some variation of twist-to-tighten nibs. Very nearly all made use of the recurved Lamson-type shaft. The development of the American snath led UK firms to import them in so great a quantity that American snaths essentially supplanted the domestic styles, and a number of UK firms also started producing their own self-described "American pattern" snaths. So most "English" scythes you see today are, in fact, English pattern blades on American pattern snaths (whether manufactured in the UK or imported from America.)
@@FortyTwoBlades Thank you for the very good explanation. Simply trying to see the difference from CZcams makes them seem alike but your very concise explanation shows that they are different in many ways.
*Death itself wants to know your location*
Scyth is multi purpose so it is detachable you don't need any help to fix it so it makes you free
No la venden para Colombia?
Shipping to Colombia would be VERY expensive due to the size of the shipping box.
@@FortyTwoBlades ok
Some people call it a sling blade I call it a hitch blade ugh Hun... Lmao
What is price
Pricing on all of our offerings can be found at www.baryonyxknife.com/scac.html
why the fuck was did recommended to me? i never ever watched anything like this?
but most importantly... why did i watch this till the end?
Why am I here
Because, at some level, it was something that piqued your interest enough not only to click to the video, but to comment on it, as well? :)
Help how did i get here 2 🤔😃interesting tool though 😊
*why are we still here? just to suffer...*
Don't like to be here... then piss off to your playstation! Simple!
Looks just like an English scythe (although most i know of are wood apart from the blade)
Then what you are probably used to seeing are English blades on American snaths. Upon their development in their modern form in the 1800s they were exported to the UK where they largely supplanted traditional English snath patterns.
FortyTwoBlades all I really know about it is that all the scythes I encountered hanging up in barns (some quite worm eaten) had ‘snaths’ with a double curve & two handles, however in the last twenty years or so we have seen snaths from the eastern parts of Europe brought in which only have a single curve and a considerably longer handle attached in order to overcome the lack of a double curve.
You would imagine that each group that emigrated to the Americas took their own style of tools with them so you might expect to see Amish people with the style of scythe I have only recently encountered & a lot of the old scythe blades in America might have been made in British forges and exported like so many other tools were?
Should have showed what all the different parts are called first. Good vid anyway.
See the video description for a link to an in-depth instructional document which begins with labeled diagrams of terminology.
FortyTwoBlades cheers :)
How about a weed eater?
This is faster, quieter, can take a larger amount of material per pass, doesn't fling bits of plastic everywhere, and starts every time. It's also supported by the ground so you aren't having to hold the weight of the tool...scythes are overall a superior tool for most contexts.
Heute noch
Is available in india.and what is cost .
We cannot economically send snaths (handles) to India due to length restrictions. We could arrange bulk purchasing, though it would be fairly expensive.
@@FortyTwoBlades Thanks
Naaaa... At first glance it really seems easier than the ones with a longer handle! But in fact, those produce a wider movment and more strenght to cut without si much effort to our arms and back.
It's the movment of the waist that does everything!
I work with one.
Excelent exercise for the legs, butt and arms! And fun too! I love it! 🤠🌺
Actually, the whole body is used in the stroke. I own and use many different global versions of scythes, and it's definitely not just the movement of the body. In fact, there's far more strength in the cut with less energy expenditure with American scythes thanks to the blade weight being more appropriate for most cutting tasks than most Euro-style blades, creating a flywheel effect that flattens the effort curve over the length of the stroke. The snath length on these is a standard 58-60" but we also have a single-nib snath for tall folks that's 78", though single-nibbed snaths are inherently longer than two-nibbed varieties. :)
Its 3 in the morning and I dont even have a garden
Better start one then! :D
I was expecting the weapon pov
Well, it's not a weapon, so I'm not sure why you'd be expecting that. I'd take a hay fork over a scythe if pressing farm tools into weapons usage, though during the time of slavery there are records of escaped slaves using scythe blades as defensive weapons by grasping them by the tang.
Цiкава
刃を取り付けるとき柄を持つ手が刃の下にあるの怖すぎる
There's no risk of the blade falling. It's entirely prevented from pivoting, and all you're doing is just tightening it up. Totally safe!
The "European" blade is lighter, more finicky and more easily severely damaged than the "American" blade. Imagine hitting a rock or sump hard with the European blade. The blade will need major repair. The American blade would probably just need to be refiled.
D. Apple American blades can still get nicks or chips, but it's true that they can take a much heavier beating without catastrophic damage! The heavier build allows the blades to handle thicker targets than their European counterparts without complaint, even with long grass blades (handy when mowing fields of mixed growth.) The heavier weight is actually to advantage in thick growth, as something of a flywheel effect is produced to help spread out the force of the stroke, minimizing spikes in exertion. That being said, a good scythe is a good scythe and while the American pattern is our preference we do have an appreciation for the European variety as well. :)
@@FortyTwoBlades --- Your "American" scythe is actually an English Scythe... The European ones are different.
Why was this recommended to me?
Obviously because it's awesome, and CZcams wants you to know it. :)
That is not a wrench :P Nice vid tho!
+Bulletstop75 www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&page=group_detail&groupID=1500
+FortyTwoBlades Ba haha! I stand corrected! You learn something new every day. Carry on. :)
+Bulletstop75 They're not inexpensive, but a heck of a tool. Wouldn't want to ever be without one! I use them for just about everything, including setting small rivets!
I need to get off fortnite
Mowing with a scythe is more fun than Fortnite. :p
You are too tall for the scythe.
No, I absolutely am not. In fact, I happen to be the theoretically ideal height for it. ;)
русские так не косят - спина скоро заболит и всё
The back is straight, with only a tilt forward at the hips to set the forward rate of advance. If your back hurts, you're doing it wrong. ;)
It's an English Scythe... Not an American Scythe...
Absolutely false. English scythes are of a distinctly different style altogether, and I have a number of them in my personal collection. The American style of snath was developed in the early 1800's and was then exported in significant volume to the UK, where it largely supplanted local snath styles, and was then copied by some snath manufacturers, many of them even going so far as to describe their UK-made snaths as "American type". The blades are significantly different, as well, especially in the form of the tang, but in nearly all other elements, as well, and anyone familiar with the two different styles may immediately tell them apart at a moment's glance. Please do your research before making such wildly inaccurate claims.