Use a BUCK BOOST module to convert & charge DC Batteries Lead Acid to Lithium from solar and more
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
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![Adding LITHIUM to your LEAD battery bank [Capable Cruising Guides]](/img/n.gif)
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If I had an electric bike as a kid, it would have been Insane! Congrats!
Thanks for the video!
Well done man Well done man from America and to you and your daughter the instructions you give to the users of this technology and the secrets you teach them is really the way you do it and honest and correct Well done man Well done and you even teach them to manage the energy correctly I hope they understand you and don't make technological mistakes because you tell them very nicely Simple and correct for joy From Greece Hello and joy
Buck Boosts are great. Enjoyed the tour of your shop.
Thanks 👍
Thanks, I've learned a couple of things today!
Perfect!
Charge controllers do one thing a buck or boost converter can't', keep the panel voltage near power point. Converters are an output driven control. They will do whatever they can to keep output voltage at what it was set to. Once the panel can't produce the power it asks for, panel voltage goes into a voltage death spiral. Converters are poor low light level performers. Many times that is ok. I use 120V LED switching power supplies on only 60V to charge batteries from cheap grid tie panels. Ideal because they are electrically isolated and in some applications that is needed. Converters work, just not as well as a charge controller.
I modify buck converters to look at input and output so the panel remains near power point to produce the maximum output. These act as a Linear Current Booster for fans and pumps to provide an early start and work on cloudy days. Cheap boards can be modified to fill a lot of applications.
For the price of solar panels it's pointless now to try and beat yourself up grinding out every possible watt from a low panel count. Years ago, just back about 4 years, when panels were $2 a watt, people would buy a single 100 watt panel and work endlessly and expensively to get 110% out of it with a MPPT and other hacks. I say screw it, get 10 panels to do what you needed 6 to do at a price of 65 cents a watt ( on the high end now) and use the amps even at low light you will produce conversion your seeking using cheap solid state buck modules. And it works.
I bought 3 buck-boost converters through your link (thank you!). My idea is to keep a small AGM battery charged that will run a diesel furnace to warm up camper and LIFEPO battery in below freezing temps, then recharging the AGM from the LIFEPO. However, the converters are not working as I believe they should. Connecting battery 14.4v to IN, the OUT battery starts at 13.3v and it charges to 14.5v at just over 1a (that's low amperage, but doing what it should). But then the OUT voltage at the battery being charged drops to around 12.3v and the IN voltage goes to 49.8v. This is both with the battery being charged connected AND with no charging battery connected to IN. That is, the converter is drawing power from the battery being charged (chargee) and outputs 49.8v back to the charging (chargor) battery OR unconnected IN leads. I tested and verified the same condition on two of the three converters. Do you have any ideas? Is this a malfunction or something I'm missing? Thank you for any advice! I really enjoy your channel!
To be sure your battery low voltage does not shut off your heater at 11.0 volts you can get a 10 to 20 volt input and 13.8 volt output constant current 15 amp buck booster in the system and that way you never fear undervolt disconnect in bad times.
Thanks John
Four 100 watt 12 volt solar panels running 24 volts to house connected directly to set down converter to to run 12 volt 300 watt inverter. Charges all my DeWalt lithium batteries. DeWalt power station comes in to play at 1500 Watts plus line purifier ( line purifier necessary if you're running digital equipment ) runs coffee pot, fans that keep air condition bill reasonable, also charges 40-volt lawn mower batteries. No need to have monster systems. 😔☯️🙏
How many batteries
happy to have found your channel..learned stuff!
Thanks👋👍☮️
Good information
Those cheap battery protection boards whit a relay on it wil give you a battery charge cut of , if you use a different dc to dc buck whit is a battery low cut of .. you got it under controle
Gave me some ideas. I need to start slowly building a lifepo4 battery bank and this would help make that useful in the mean time.
I’ve debated taking a wide input buck boost and using it to regulate the output of a dc treadmill motor. That way you could run the voltage up to something manageable for wire size and have a PWM controller on the output to have three stage or even 4 stage charging. Giving me something that’s hard to do. Proper full stage charging from an engine driven dc source. I can run my engine at a low rpm, giving it a long life and it’s belt driven so it’s easily replaced. Least that’s the idea.
It’s very hard to even find the output voltage, a lot don’t list it. Some are a stock 12/24 volts which is kind of useless.
Good to see your health is improving.
Use Lead Acid as a Slave battery. Most open volts on a treadmill motor is 70 to 90 volts @900 rpm, build you a 48 or 60 volt, 4 or 5 cheap Walmart Marine batteries. You have to pick the type 29maxx to get the Exide made ( all the rest are crap Johnson Controls junk) so you get 5+ years. It becomes your incoming charge controller. Using a Buck Boost you take that power to charge your LiFePO4 12 to 36 volt continuous off them until they drop to 50% and just use a low voltage disconnect set to 12.10 volts on ONE 12 volt to control a solenoid on all 60 volts output. Using a over voltage relay like my OPC module sampling voltage on on of the 12 volt you have it do a engine stop at 15 volts so the engine running the motor stops at peak charge of your 48 to 60 volt set up. Start the engine, walk away, to bring them back up, repeat start and walk away. Should allow you a 15 minute run, 2-5 hours stopped each cycle if sized right.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 a great idea. I’m kind of in a unique situation, I have free natural gas so I don’t really need to worry about fuel efficiency. Do you think instead of shutting it off it would be possible to drive a 555 circuit and a servo and just back the rpm down until it’s kept at a float voltage?
You can install a vacuum drive throttle with a circuit cut from higher rpm to run them. Search for Compressor Engine control for Honda gas powered compressors.
You should check out fractal switch capacitor converters. Awesome way to step up or down. You're going to find it both fascinating and useful I believe.
I began at age 6 studying Tesla with his work on capacitance converters, open air energy transmission using such in vacuum chambers. But a unique man of discovery Antonio is where you can get real data and applications from. A hard read due to the nature of the material findings with the madness ramblings but have it a look. www.coe.ufrj.br/~acmq/electrostatic.html
@@JOHNDANIEL1 appreciate it. Always looking for rabbit holes.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 have you thought about using a mercury arc rectifier for stepping down atmospheric voltage? Just curious. 😏
I got my hands so full of things I just run on current memory and applications!
Wow, just wow excellent information here metering and showing actual results of competitive equipment at a bargain price. Could you make one for a 48 V system that seems to be the way that the equipment is going to now.
Could you run 2 Buck converters to get 48 V off a 12 V alternator for say motorhome.The 48v alternators are outrageous in price.
With these DC systems you want the amps to be as low as possible so you want the volts highest possible because cabling is very pricey and it also maximize your efficiency on those DC systems.
Efficiency has to be in the high 90 percentile, with the least amount of stand by draw in single digit watts.
I like all the testing that you do and would be very curious if you’ve came up with anything on the 48 V system I really enjoyed your wind generator videos.
You made yourself a very impressive powerplant. I do think that wind power is the future more efficient than solar.
Efficiency is number one , cost effective will be the balance.
Trying to get to that elusive zero point energy. Right now we just all hope for a return on our investment.
Thank you and your family for sharing, glad I found your channel and I subscribed.
I've been thinking of using these on both ends of a system to allow for 12v source up to 48V for smaller cabling in the walls, and then back down to 12v at each endpoint. Thoughts?
I am using 12 to 36 volt back to 12 in all the runs with a LiFePO4 at the end of each run as bulk capacity of 36v. That has been my whole DC system from the start. I boost off the lead acid and solar, send it in 10/2 at 7 amps 36v to each room, it goes into a set of 3 - 12 volt for 36 volt, then everything from 19.5 volt computer to 12 volt outlets is off buck modules. its on a charge timer to run from 10:30 am to 4 pm everyday.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Any videos showing this setup with the buck/booster converters. Are you using Solar+ (2) 12v lead acid batteries plus (1) 12v Lithium LifePO4 at end to make 36v? Or are you saying (3) 12v lead acid batteries making 36 V with (1) 12v lithium LifePO4 which batteries have buck converter/converters hooked up to?
can I use one of those as a lifepo4 charger for a campervan to limit the current between the alternator and the leisure lifepo4 battery? everyone says there has to be some sort of current limiter so that discharged leisure battery doesn't overload the alternator. will this device limit the current the lifepo4 battery will be trying to draw from the alternator?
Yes, you can get them from 3 amps to 30 amps they take 8 to 30 volts input, and output amps chosen and 14.6 volts s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDQExrp with tapering charge control feature so when your battery nears full charge they fade the amps from full to zero.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 thank you!
@@JOHNDANIEL1But what if you only want 94% charges like you and your daughter talked about to make lithium battery last extra years? What about those other charging devices don’t know the name but ones on the wall there circular shape , you had a video showing installing one in the truck too. There’s one for lithium charging and there’s one for lead acid.
Thank you two for all you do🇺🇸👍🏻
@@peckerpeter2078 Set your Charge controllers to GEL battery setting to achieve the less than 100% on LiFePO4 and a much lower float voltage. The VSR ( voltage sensitive relay ) on the wall is to direct connect the Lead Acid to the LiFePO4 during peak voltages 12.7 to 14.0 volts so the LiFePO4 is more a voltage support capacitor to the lead Acid and the battery cabling gauges are 100% ability large on Lead Acid, 70% from the LiFePO4 to default all hard start and surge load needs to the Lead Acid which gets its refill and support voltage from the LiFePO4 in a constant feed. Our results are 70% lead Acid and 30% LiFePO4 working together to keep amps solid ( lead acid) and volts up ( LiFePO4 ) all day and night.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thank you so much for the clarification, that is a benefit to the MPPT controller. I was trying to use the PWM controller from morning star 45 amp, and was thinking about ways of making it work charging lithium but not at the hundred percent rate I believe they have a custom setting, but there’s not really any video showing on how you do things. Also, what are your thoughts on programmable relays?
I seen some solar installers talk about using those to conserve energy. I’m all for the kiss system and just the basics don’t need the Bluetooth or the other crap a bare minimum for maximum safe protection that works continuously I respect your professional real world, real testing opinion.
I was thinking for a motorhome set up just to run a mini split air conditioner no heat pump and a 120 V refrigerator with about 1200w to 1600 W solar using 410 W solar panels 3 to 4 of them with 24v Dc to 120vac inverter on a 24 V battery 2 to 4 of them. I like to work everything out on paper doing the math first before I get into any purchasing.
It seems with the solar systems you can do this different ways and they can all cost multiple different prices. Definitely don’t wanna install unnecessary equipment for minimalist realistic needs.
Hi I want to know more about this platform boost buck or Brick investment is it ligit or scam
I plan to do this in my minibus. Yeah, I changed my username again, lol.
I like that one! Round 10 LOL!
A Thought: Schizophrenia is so hard to deal with when you got everyone after you! 😡
@@JOHNDANIEL1 tell me about it, brother. I don't even know who I am anymore, but they sure do. 🤔
When you get known for being unknown, YOUR SCREWED!
Do you know of any US sellers for these buck booster converters ?
Yes, for 40% more on price and all they do is drop ship from China.
One more little question. Can this buck booster charge more than one battery at a time (4 100 ma power queens in series) ?
@@JOHNDANIEL1
yes, i charge that many with mine
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thanks for replying. I ordered mine and it is somewhere between china and Texas.
That’s not a cricket, haha, good job trying for comments though
your wife looks gorgeous
LOL! Miss K is my most wonderful daughter.
you make no sense !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!