Muscle Car Electrical Wiring Troubleshooting Tricks and Tips Episode 250 Autorestomod
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- čas přidán 20. 01. 2016
- We look at common electrical problems for classic, muscle, and 1960s cars. We show some tips on how to diagnose issues.
www.autorestomod.com/ / autorestomod
Thanks for watching!
Jeff Ford Contact:
Jford@autorestomod.com
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www.nationalpartsdepot.com
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Yes, please, more "Cam on Electric" videos. Finding the "simple" electrical problem is never easy.
Great tips Jeff! I actually made a pigtail bypass for my Mach 1. It came with a factory tach that didn’t work. Keep up these awesome videos 👍🏻
Good job guys. Makes me think I have a grounding issue on my aftermarket tri-gauges (Voltage, Temp, Oil Pressure). Gauge lights are always fading in and out\blinking; whenever the lights are on. Now, I have another project... thanks again,
You’re helping me with my 65 galaxie wiring ! 🙌🏽 thanks
Awesome!
I have been restoring a 65 Mustang for over ten years. One of the most common problems encountered is loose or corroded connections. You got to keep in mind this stuff has often been on the planet longer than the owner. It can often present as a bad regulator, amp gauge, or alternator when it's really just a matter of taking connections off and cleaning with a brush or sandpaper. I just recently fixed (erratic gauge/lights fluctuating) by taking the wires off the battery side of starter solenoid and polishing all the surfaces.
a lot of good points thanks
Good info, enjoyed the video
Another cause for headlight flickering is a partial short to ground in one headlight circuit. The automatic-reset breaker (no fuse) tries to keep the headlights on, but cycles continuously because of the excessive current draw.
That happened to me after I bought my 'new' 65 mustang in LA I took it cross country. Somewhere in Colorado I was belting along on an empty road 70- 80mph at night I reached down with my left foot to get big light for the road ahead and everything went BLACK!!!!!!!! I braked hard and didn't run out of road but it was a terrifying experience. I live in London now so I don't need it just occasionally I press it to check the highbeam but it's never done it again!
I had that happen to my '71 Mach. I was using Halogens (late '90s) and didn't know about relays them. Lights died about 30 minutes from home. Luckily it was a cloudless full moon night.
A year ago I bought a 1971 Comet GT that had been sitting for 10 years. I went thru the wiring harness and cleaned up the fuse box. replaced votage regulater all the things that should be done I did. The car has been running fine for 8 months solid. The carborater that was on the engine that was in the car was way to big. I installed a new elderbrock 1406. I have been running that carb right out the box for a solid 5 months. I finally got around to hooking up a vacuum gage to tune it in a bit better. I noticed when a went to adjust idle speed there was a little spark from the adjuster screw to my screw driver. The battery has never gone dead and system is charging and it has not blown any fuses. Some were I saw if you disconnect posotive battery terminal and use ohm meter from the battery pos post to the battery cable that is disconnected and it shows voltage there is an active short in the system. now im a little nervous about driving it. Is there any help you can give me. I do have a wiring diagram and manual for the car. everthing seems to check out when tested by the book. Thanks
First thing I'd look at is engine grounds, make sure there is a ground lead from the intake to the firewall. Also, does it do that consistently? Could it be a one time thing?
@@AutoRestoMod Update on this issue. The problem I found was the choke thermostat spring was cracked so as it would heat up and unwind to open the choke plate the crack on spring was pushing up against the carb housing. Here is a little video I took after a 300 mile cruise last Fathersday.
czcams.com/video/Bczbq7XbXzU/video.html
Hi Jeff and Cam! Does NPD stock those new threaded rod fuses or can I just put in a .22 long bullet? lol Take care guys love the channel!
No but I think Academy or Walmart might have the 22 gauge fuse...
Ford Falcon! Sweet make more Falcon videos!
When I was rewiring my 69 Mustang with the American auto wire. They use about 2 fusible link in their kit.
Bald Head Jamaican Many American Autowire kits use fusible links including the one in my ‘56 Chevy.
Error @1730 : "Constant Voltage" unit has no effect on Ammeter. It is used only for Fuel, Temperature, and Oil Pressue.
Show us how to replace the fuseable links! and with what!
The rationale over the preference for the stock, points-style 5vdc regulator for the instrument panel over an aftermarket solid state regulator is that the original style runs dirty? Most circuits and devices prefer a clean voltage source, any that actually work better with a dirty power source must have been designed with that in mind. Can you clarify?
There is something with the degrading electrical signal that makes it work more effectively. The solid state is more on/off than on/ooofffff.
There is on the market now, crimp connectors that are shrink wrap with adhesive. Good idea on replacing a fuse with a light to find a short, always worked for me..B
tnb.com/ps/endeca/index.cgi?a=nav&N=318+1010+4294953238&Ntt=
Hi I have a 1958 Chevy Impala and I'm having a problem with my reverse lights not showing when I put it in reverse on an automatic. Where do I begin to diagnose?
First thing I would want you to do is source a wiring diagram: www.58classicchevy.com/images/1958-Chevrolet-wiring-diagram-6cyl.jpg The problem is most likely a ground issue or the switch.
Hang on! Question! Should not use fuseable links?! Even if factory installed? Should they all be replaced?
Enjoy the vids! Much useful info! Not a Ford but "kind of"LOL! Working on '86 Jeep Grand Wagoneer. It has been sitting for 12yrs! Keep the vids coming!
If the factory used fuseable links then put them in, I would. We appreciate you watching!
Understood! Thank you for the response!
I have a 68 cougar. Gauges won't turn on and they don't light up. I replaced the voltage regulator behind the dash but still nada. Any advice for troubleshooting?
The gauge cluster grounds to the dash panel. I'd make sure that you are gounded.
Way to go Cam.
Ya Cam!
Just about all my old vehicles have a stick of 1x2 tucked away for dipping in the gas tank. lol. Gas gauges aren't much of a priority around here
Do y’all have a video on a charging system for 1967 Ford falcon
Possibly where all the grounds are suppose to be
I would look around on the web for a diagram. Auto Krafters (www.autokrafters.com) has the wiring diagram.
Thank you this falcon is giving me a head ache
Im working on my 68 torino but Im only 16 and its simple but it is like I fix one thing and then I find another,I got it driving and then all of a sudden the fuel gage stopped working. I dont know why??
I'd check to see if it is grounded well. Then check for power to the sender.
Will do, but I have to wait until the weekend getting the glass installed so I won't have my baby until then:( but thank you so much! I finally subscribed but I've been watching you guys for forever
Another typical Ford issue is headlights turning off and coming back on over and over and over is sign of a bad headlight switch.
I love the videos! BUT!! cat on the pant and wires being drugged down the hood made me sick lol! Keep up the good work guys😜
She is gentle on the paint, and a class act. When we have fresh paint, you'll see me acting differently 😀
@@AutoRestoMod I just had to give you crap bc you know I'm not the only one like 😳😳😳
when I shift radio turns off? 1970 Torino column shift...
Three speed or Automatic? Old radio or newer one? Doe the radio turn of over hard bumps? I am betting on a loose wire or ground on the radio circuit.
FMX. COLUMN SHIFT.
ANYTIME I TOUCH SHIFTER IT WILL RESTART RADIO.
NEW RADIO. retroradio.
if I'm sitting with car off with accessories on. and im listening to radio then shift from park to reverse or any other gear it will short out and come back on. retro message on radio says goodbye like it was being parked or shut of.. but does come back on eventually..
@@AutoRestoMod
and now the ignition cylinder/key cylinder will buzz always if door is open..
Tried uploading a video but. I couldn’t figure that out.
Looks like it was 10 months ago, but did you check for a chafed wire in the steering column?
A lot of things in this video bothered me. The solder joint should not be used due to vibration, that's why the FAA doesn't allow it. Use environmental sealing crimps instead and use the correct tool. Also the corroded ground, the guessing with values and using incorrect terms such as check for volts when put in ohms. Not your best work guys. I may be overly critical as I am a aviation electrician and I rewire cars on the side.
+John Engvik Points taken John. We made some errors in our terminology, and said that crimp connections and solder connections are a mixed bag on the automotive side. Crimps are a great way to go but as ugly as a wart. While we recognize that the FAA won't do solder for a reason, we also know that solder is a viable way to complete circuits. We appreciate your taking the time to write us and let us know. If you will please contact Jeff with the places and terms that were erroneous we will take measured to put subtitles in those areas to correct the problems. Jeff can be reached at: jford @autorestomod.com
Im shaking my head as a novice saying how will i ever learn this lol
You'll get it. I admit it isn't a strong suit of mine either.
lol your yellow tag on the video is spelled wrong
+AAAComputerSolutions LOL we sometimes will miss stuff.
+AAAComputerSolutions Has been corrected. Thanks for the heads up!
Guys! What do you have against the paint job on that Falcon hood? Are you prepping it for new paint, or what? I can't believe you're dragging all those metal parts across the paint...tossing stuff on it, pulling stuff off, using it for a table. I cringed every time......