Tune a Wood Plane to be Better than Iron
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- čas přidán 7. 05. 2023
- What's better for a smoothing plane. Iron or Wood. Both are the most persnickety tools in your hand plane arsenal.
I prefer a wood hand plane for smoothing due to it's tuneability. You can do things in wood that are hard to accomplish in iron that affect that tactile nature of it's use. In this video I show you how to "tune" a Krenov style wooden hand plane to improve it's feel and performance. Same techniques can be use on other styles of wooden hand planes.
Lots of tips and tricks to help improve your odds of success.
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Referenced Video: Chip Breaker - • Chip Breaker
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Tools & Material Used in this video:
- Associate Links (they give a little on back end to wortheffort)
* 12" & 18" Granite Surface Place: amzn.to/44I70Hi
- Non-Associate Links (No compensation for recommendation)
* Blade seen in plane: Hock Tools - www.hocktools.com/products/pi...
Associates Link of other items such as Tool, Book, etc.... I already own/use in woodworking craft that are available on Amazon - www.amazon.com/shop/wortheffort
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I've been making planes using the Krenov method for 20 years now. I really like the look of yours, it's beautiful. Nice job of explaining how to tune one of these up to get good results from it. In terms of how fiddly a properly made laminated plane is I had gifted a friend a 22" jointer which he seldom used and decided to give it back to me. He accidentally left the plane outside in an open air carport for eight years in northeast Georgia before remembering to bring it to me. All I needed to do was clean the rust off the iron and lightly flatten the sole to put the plane back in order. My own experience with Krenov wooden planes is that they don't require constant maintenance. The ones you've made obviously don't either. Thanks for sharing.
I love using hand planes but I'm kind of a noob so I havent found my style yet vids like this are very helpful
Very nice video. I'm so glad you don't scream through your videos any more. A lot of good info throughout this one, thanks a lot.
You know, I hate that kind of thing too mostly, but I'll forgive this guy.
Watching your videos is always time well spent
Do you have a video on building the wood planes? I did a search but one didn’t come up. I would be super interested in that if have the time to make a video on it!
This channel is a fantastic resource!
Great video!
Cool. Cheers.
Thanks
I have a mixture of wood and metal planes I use my wooden smoother for heavier cut pine/softwood haven’t tuned it for 6 month’s.
I’ve got a blend. 2 steel bodied planes. #4 and 5&1/2 as well as 2 Japanese style planes. I like the Japanese planes the most. Less weight and Fatigue.
thanks
Now look what you've done. I've gone and got all the metal planes I need and now I've got an itch for a wooden smoother because it is easier to plane with. A quick question: how do you deal with the supposedly "essential" tight mouth to deal with tear-out. Flattening that bottom will open that mouth.
Not that much. Choose more workable woods or install a new mouth bc it’s wood and your a woodworker.
Also, make one.
I know that smoother has gotten airtime in quite a few of your videos, but I can't recall if you've done a video actually building one of these coffin smoothers from scratch before. I bet it would catch some views. DIY tools are always a hit.
Not the Krenov style which is what I batched out to fund school many years ago. Might do a tradiional one someday.
In my effort to learn and share with others, I want to share a great tip that I never heard before, (after 12 years watching woodworking video on CZcams): if you get wavy shavings your chip breaker is too close to the edge of the blade. (tip comes from one of the latest video of Jonathan Katz-Moses)
Smoother you want wavy. Shows fibers are crushing thus less chance of tear out.
@@wortheffort It seems to be a controversial argument. Christopher Schwarz has been suggesting for years to leave a 1.5 mm gap as a good compromise between very thin shaving, chip clogging and mouth opening (lost art press blog post on 2007/12/31: Chipbreakers: The No. 6 Way to Reduce Tear-out). Graham Blackburn have just release a video talking about sharpening where he say you should leave the same gap between the chip breaker and the edge of the blade as the thickness of the shaving you want to get.
Either of those state ribbons as something to avoid? My understanding is ribbons are caused by forward pressure breaking wood fibers at the point of cutting whereas curls are caused by breaking after the cut from bending. Bending After the cut magnifies any splits thus emending tear out. Ya want ribbons with smoothers and curls with others on species prone to tear out. You can get ribbons with a breaker retracted if it’s blunt.
@@wortheffort To go really deep in the rabbit hole there's a black and white video on CZcams from a japanese scientist where he test chip breakers behavior at a microscopic level (I think he should be the same scientist cited by Christopher Schwarz in the previous mentioned blog post). The chipbreaker edge angle seems to be the critical factor. I don't think I have saved that video, but if I find it I will post the link.
@@wortheffort Here it is: czcams.com/video/19lTQHX3i34/video.html
idiosyncrasies. One of the first big words I used according to my mom. I'm watching a lot of these vids. 220, 230, whatever it takes. It's a quote from a CC movie.
You say you like to bear down on the smoothing plane, but it made me remember a video of Paul Sellers on bench height where he showed you don't really need to add any downforce on the plane, simply giving it forward momentum is enough. Is it just personal preference to bear down on it, or do wooden planes need a bit downforce due to being lighter than the metal Stanley planes Paul demonstrated with?
Remember me demonstrating with the metal plane at the beginning of the video and it being behind?
👌👌👌
Have you ever compared yours to German wooden smoothing planes (Putzhobel)? They're usually well made, with about 50° blade angle, and sometimes an adjustable mouth.
No, mine works fine. No need to buy another.
And now i know the plane truth
Seriously get out of my head, I just started using my hand planes for real last week and was like I have too many questions
See my "Hand Planes are Stupid" video.
@@wortheffort was actually gonna go looking for that tomorrow, thank you for the title now it won’t take scrolling, I love you the info you put out, it’s help get me inspired to start my own little side hustle
No, I completely disagree. Whilst you can get brilliant performance from a wooden plane, and they are light and "slippery", they are also a faff to re-set........particularly in backing the iron off. If all you ever work with is perfect straight grained clear timber, then fine, you might have a point. But if you work with gnarly stuff, green timber, or reversing grain, where constant adjustment is needed to the depth of cut, then they are a pain in the neck compared with a Bailey-pattern plane. Also, if you need a close-set cap-iron to control tear-out, you don't have that option with many woodies.
This from someone who uses wooden planes all the time, as well as Bailey-pattern planes.
We’ll disagree on most of this.