Nice piece of equipment. I'm surprised it has a compressor/phase change type system as often times, just a small compressor alone will cost that much. I'm making a 1.5" vacuum insulated cooler (not using panels, but built into the design). Has an R value of around 90, and will keep things cold or hot for a couple weeks or so. No foam or plastic either, though there is some thin layers of 33% bio-content epoxy (Entropy Resins) for strength and waterproofing. It can also double as a very efficient Solar oven/cooker, and no grid electricity microfridge (for daytime cooling it uses a Solar panel and 2 Peltier/TEC devices and for nighttime cooling, it uses IR reflection to sky).
I have the Delta and the River. Both are good but I prefer the Delta, higher capacity and faster charging. I run my whole camper off of it when we’re boondocking.
@@DoItYourselfDad awesome. Just started a new build thread in the CNC and 3d printing section. New slope soarer on the build table. I still have my founders plane kit to build. Just never got around to it.
Its going to vary greatly by the size of the battery. The good news is, the fridge has a safety mode where it will shut itself down before it depleets the battery to the point the car wont start.
Guessing after taking a look at my jeep battery size, a 94r/H7 AGM battery has a capacity of 80 amp hours, which in 12v terms is equivalent to roughly 960 watt-hours. So in theory to kill the battery, the fridge would need to constantly draw 45w for 22 hours. But the compressor is not constantly running, so in theory, if your vehicle needs 11.8V to successfully start, and a battery typically sits at 12.6V when the car is not running (assuming you have a healthy battery), gives us a grand total of .8 amp hours, or 96 watt-hours. This means the compressor would need to constantly run for 2 hours and 15 minutes before its integrated battery level cutoff on the highest sensitivity tells it to shut off. BUT, if it runs once for 15 minutes every hour, we can determine that 2.15 * 4 (4 being the amount of times the compressor starts to equal out at the 45-watt hour mark, and 2.15 hours being the total amount of time the unit would function if it was constantly drawing 45W an hour) would give you 8 to 9-ish total hours of run time with an intermittent runtime of 15 minutes every hour, and assuming the battery level cutoff shuts the unit down when the internal battery reads 11.8V This is assuming the fridge is not in eco mode, if it was, at 38W an hour for 96 watt hours, it would take 2 and a half hours to drop the battery to 11.8V, which after a whole calculation brings you out to just around 10 hours of run-time, with the same calculation as above. Quick math: 96/45=2.13 (Round to 2.15) 2.15*4=8.6 (Roughly 8 and a half hours of run time) Quick math (Eco Mode): 96/38=2.52 (Round down to 2.5) 2.5*4=10 (Roughly 10 hours of run time) (My math might be waaaaaay off, but it sounds about right). Which is super cool (no pun intended), if you were to purchase Jackery's cheapest power station (Explorer 160) 160/45=3.5 | 3.5*4=14 hours of run time. Eco Mode: 160/38=4.21 (Round down to 4.2) 4.2*4=16.8 - ALMOST 17 whole hours.
ARB car fridge seems very professional
A proper cup of coffee is Black. Strong enough to float a horseshoe. No milk,creamer or sugar.
What’s your go-to grind?
Proper cup of joe should be Black & Bitter , think Shy'Nye-Queill but even blacker.
F40C4TMP........40 degrees F = 4 degrees C temperature. It's the metric system.
Don’t know why I never clued into that. Wouldn’t it make more sense if it was 40f4ctmp?
@@DoItYourselfDad mysteries of the Orient.
Nice piece of equipment. I'm surprised it has a compressor/phase change type system as often times, just a small compressor alone will cost that much.
I'm making a 1.5" vacuum insulated cooler (not using panels, but built into the design). Has an R value of around 90, and will keep things cold or hot for a couple weeks or so. No foam or plastic either, though there is some thin layers of 33% bio-content epoxy (Entropy Resins) for strength and waterproofing.
It can also double as a very efficient Solar oven/cooker, and no grid electricity microfridge (for daytime cooling it uses a Solar panel and 2 Peltier/TEC devices and for nighttime cooling, it uses IR reflection to sky).
How do you like your ecosmart battery? Which one is that?
I have the Delta and the River. Both are good but I prefer the Delta, higher capacity and faster charging. I run my whole camper off of it when we’re boondocking.
@@DoItYourselfDad I was eyeballing the Delta myself but at $1k seems there are better more affordable options, gas powered wise.
Yeah, they definitely are pricy. Being able to run all of our camping stuff from the truck is nice, but you can get a gas generator for half the cost.
So you can run it off a $1200 solar battery bank? Sweet!
You can plug it into you cars 12v socket…
flitetest shirt! I also like airplanes lol
Hi Nathan! I’ve seen your around the Flite Test groups! Just got my arm out of a cast and getting back on the sticks tomorrow!
@@DoItYourselfDad awesome. Just started a new build thread in the CNC and 3d printing section. New slope soarer on the build table. I still have my founders plane kit to build. Just never got around to it.
I’ll have to get over there and check it out. I’m anxiously waiting on the arrival of my laser cutter.
@@DoItYourselfDad I have an omtech 12*20 50w. It such a joy to use.
I am curious -- as to when its plugged into 12V , how long will it run without draining the Battery to where your vehicle will not crank over??
Its going to vary greatly by the size of the battery. The good news is, the fridge has a safety mode where it will shut itself down before it depleets the battery to the point the car wont start.
Guessing after taking a look at my jeep battery size, a 94r/H7 AGM battery has a capacity of 80 amp hours, which in 12v terms is equivalent to roughly 960 watt-hours. So in theory to kill the battery, the fridge would need to constantly draw 45w for 22 hours.
But the compressor is not constantly running, so in theory, if your vehicle needs 11.8V to successfully start, and a battery typically sits at 12.6V when the car is not running (assuming you have a healthy battery), gives us a grand total of .8 amp hours, or 96 watt-hours.
This means the compressor would need to constantly run for 2 hours and 15 minutes before its integrated battery level cutoff on the highest sensitivity tells it to shut off. BUT, if it runs once for 15 minutes every hour, we can determine that 2.15 * 4 (4 being the amount of times the compressor starts to equal out at the 45-watt hour mark, and 2.15 hours being the total amount of time the unit would function if it was constantly drawing 45W an hour) would give you 8 to 9-ish total hours of run time with an intermittent runtime of 15 minutes every hour, and assuming the battery level cutoff shuts the unit down when the internal battery reads 11.8V
This is assuming the fridge is not in eco mode, if it was, at 38W an hour for 96 watt hours, it would take 2 and a half hours to drop the battery to 11.8V, which after a whole calculation brings you out to just around 10 hours of run-time, with the same calculation as above.
Quick math: 96/45=2.13 (Round to 2.15) 2.15*4=8.6 (Roughly 8 and a half hours of run time)
Quick math (Eco Mode): 96/38=2.52 (Round down to 2.5) 2.5*4=10 (Roughly 10 hours of run time)
(My math might be waaaaaay off, but it sounds about right).
Which is super cool (no pun intended), if you were to purchase Jackery's cheapest power station (Explorer 160)
160/45=3.5 | 3.5*4=14 hours of run time.
Eco Mode: 160/38=4.21 (Round down to 4.2) 4.2*4=16.8 - ALMOST 17 whole hours.