That was the best video on truss rod nut replacement I've ever seen. Awesome job, I have 3 Squire bass necks that need this done to. Thanks so much for sharing!
Your method worked great using a drill bit inserted in the truss rod plug and heated it up with a soldering iron. Turns out the truss rod nuts on the 2 Squire bass necks were cracked (split) and not stripped. now I have to get the parts to finish the repair. Thanks again for the great video!
Wow man that is genius work and looks better than before. Your tricks of the trade is book material. My work has me living there I want to apologize for not getting you those tubes out to you yet. Please forgive me for that. I need to do it this week sometime before Monday due to me going to dayshift. If i get out on time on dayshift (pessimistic) I get home 430 then 35 minutes to your shop.
Of all things, the water thin glue I use for touchups is simply the little 2 packs of Duro superglue availabe anywhere. I pick mine up at Dollar General for $1. I have a variety of other hi-tech glues that I use for various things. The glue I used to remove the nut was Titebond Medium.
Worked on a friends tele today to try and reduce the relief a bit. Truss rod moves freely in both directions from a neutral threaded position. However multiple turns clockwise resulted in marginal changes in flattening out the neck. Eventually the truss rod reaches a stopping point. Additional torque was applied within my comfort level at which point I stopped. Any suggestions on what the issue might be?
The first thing I would do is check the amount of relief with the truss rod in the neutral position. If you have more than .020 relief with string tension, you may not have enough room to adjust it. I have had to heat straighten and even sometimes re-fret the neck to get them to conform. There is an old Japanese Jazzmaster video here that had a similar issue. Also, when adjusting any truss rod put a little back pressure on the neck and bring the rod tension up. That way the rod is not doing all the work. Thanks for checking out the video.
I do not know I have not encountered the problem with Danos, But I doubt it is the same remedy. This solution is related only to the Fender Bi-flex rod.
What exact bridge is that? Looks like it has the PUSH IN whammy bar but the steel saddles! I am about to do a parts caster. Need to know! I love the OLD strat Ultra bridge from the 1990s, but its so chrome shiny. I’d really love it in more of a satin finish or more classic looking but still a modern 2 point for this build which I intend to be a sunburst.
Ok I went back and checked it out. It had been probably 2 1/2 years since I had seen it. It is a strat std. trem, but the lighter steel saddles had been added. The saddles are stock Fender. Just had to take a reminder look.
I have a 2019 ultra Fender Tele, my truss rod nut is tight, I’d love to do this to mine, but that plug is what I’m afraid I’d mess up, I’m guessing they don’t sell replacement plugs in case you screw one up?
@@guitarc.p.r.9675 any advice? I’m gonna take it to a local luthier, eventually 🤪 I’ve had it since 2019, it plays but just tight when it comes time for setups, would I be better off buying a new neck? Or is it affordably salvageable? I’d just like to be ahead of the curve before I talk to a luthier
Repair or replacement is your call. I can not offer any suggestions simply because without having it in my hands to evaluate it I would only be guessing.
Actually My favorite is the vintage style that adjusts at the neck heel. While I have had to repair all types, that one seems to me as the most solid. The Bullet has it's own problems with cracking fingerboards, and caving in at the pressure point, ESPECIALLY on basses. The bullet nut is also a bear to remove it it is cracked or stripped out. The advantage of the American Std rod is that is is double acting in case the neck actually hapens to be too straight while under string tension. Thanks for watching!
Music wire, aka piano wire, and spring wire is a high carbon steel rod. Very high tensile strength, and heat resistance. I used it to fabricate truss rods in my building days. It was easily available from hobby shops. I first used it in model airplane landing gear, and a model rocket launcher. It is common in everyday life. Just last week I found a section of it used as the idler arm belt tension rod in my clothes drier. Hope that helps and thanks for checking out the channel.
So I would be sure it was glued well. Most of the glue is going to slide off as the plug is put in, so I use extra. Plus the extra glue makes a nice lubricant to make sure it slides in and seats quickly and easily. The rod may possibly end up with back pressure on it and I have seen factory ones be accidentally pushed out some. In the few of these I saw there was evidence of a poor glue joint. Thanks for watching.
I just hate hearing this... Fender just missing the ball on giving us a good solid fitting socket to wrench fit. All you have to do is adjust your truss rod a couple of turns and next thing you know you can't adjust anymore because the wrench wore down just from normal use. I swear we should all just stop buying from Fender until they put more effort into quality.... I have another Fender American Professional II 2022 and guess what?, the rod is stripped and not because of over tightening its because the material sucks and wears down after minimal use and we're stuck with a big bill from a luthier to have it repaired.
Hearing you say guys be careful with these just makes me so irritated.. Not at you but at Fender.. I can see your wrench is already wearing down and you just said you filed it.. CHEAP MATERIALS is the problem.. I would have to say 1 out of every ten guitarist could do what you're doing. It's a trip to the luthier and a big bill. Have you ever assembled furniture with a hex that fits properly? You can take it apart and put it back together a hundred times because the material is hard and the wrench fits solid. MADE IN CHINA TOO,, LOL Fender is a joke
I agree with most of your comment. The reason I said to be careful, was just a heads up/warning. I have customers' guitars I have worked on for years without a problem. But it only takes one slip from a hasty owner to get into trouble. Fender's excuse to me on the phone was..."in a perfect world it would fit better" I mostly use a very hard wrench turned backwards with a small socket style driver as a handle. The Fender wrenches are a joke. The round tipped/T-handle ones supplied with the instruments should be thrown away. Frankly, there is a LOT of BS all over the industry. I have been dealing with it for nearly 50 years now. I tell people all the time "If you knew what I know about this industry, you would all take up golf."
Couldn't agree more. But I'm too nearsighted for golf, and Toni I. gives me goosebumps, not Tiger W. Funniest part of my past, 36 years ago my luther told me to "stop overpaying for these overpriced products. For less money I can build you anything you want. " Now that I'm 4 years into building my own instruments I really really wish I had listened to him. I'm sure he was right
That was the best video on truss rod nut replacement I've ever seen. Awesome job, I have 3 Squire bass necks that need this done to. Thanks so much for sharing!
Oh, sorry man. The Squire necks are a different issue I believe. I have had multiple problems with them and the Mexican models.
Your method worked great using a drill bit inserted in the truss rod plug and heated it up with a soldering iron. Turns out the truss rod nuts on the 2 Squire bass necks were cracked (split) and not stripped. now I have to get the parts to finish the repair. Thanks again for the great video!
Darren Riley is such a great guy. I've known him for at least 23 years. Great video as always 👊😎
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Hope you and yours are well. Much respect.
this is exactly what I needed to know to try to fix my neck. thanks so much!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching.
Great work!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
Master craftsman! Well done as always Charlie!
Thanks Roger that means a lot coming from you.
Did not know such a repair was possible great job thanks for the video
Glad to help, thanks for checking out the channel.
lots of nice tips. thanks
Wow man that is genius work and looks better than before. Your tricks of the trade is book material. My work has me living there I want to apologize for not getting you those tubes out to you yet. Please forgive me for that. I need to do it this week sometime before Monday due to me going to dayshift. If i get out on time on dayshift (pessimistic) I get home 430 then 35 minutes to your shop.
Great information. Hopefully I will never need to use it.
Glad it was helpful!
You did a great job
Thank you.
Great video, lots of knowledge and skill there, have a great Christmas from England.
Happy Christmas to you as well. Nice to hear from you England!
Nice work
Super!!! Thank you very much!!!
Glad you like it!
Beautiful repair! What brand of thin CA glue do you use and where do you buy it?
Of all things, the water thin glue I use for touchups is simply the little 2 packs of Duro superglue availabe anywhere. I pick mine up at Dollar General for $1. I have a variety of other hi-tech glues that I use for various things. The glue I used to remove the nut was Titebond Medium.
Very well done! Is there a plan to publish Sneaky Tricks 1 - 501 😀
I hd not considered that. I doubt that I can remember all of them. They just seem to pop up when needed.
Worked on a friends tele today to try and reduce the relief a bit. Truss rod moves freely in both directions from a neutral threaded position. However multiple turns clockwise resulted in marginal changes in flattening out the neck. Eventually the truss rod reaches a stopping point. Additional torque was applied within my comfort level at which point I stopped. Any suggestions on what the issue might be?
The first thing I would do is check the amount of relief with the truss rod in the neutral position. If you have more than .020 relief with string tension, you may not have enough room to adjust it. I have had to heat straighten and even sometimes re-fret the neck to get them to conform. There is an old Japanese Jazzmaster video here that had a similar issue. Also, when adjusting any truss rod put a little back pressure on the neck and bring the rod tension up. That way the rod is not doing all the work. Thanks for checking out the video.
I have a Danelectro with the exact same problem. Same perscription?
I do not know I have not encountered the problem with Danos, But I doubt it is the same remedy. This solution is related only to the Fender Bi-flex rod.
What exact bridge is that? Looks like it has the PUSH IN whammy bar but the steel saddles! I am about to do a parts caster. Need to know! I love the OLD strat Ultra bridge from the 1990s, but its so chrome shiny. I’d really love it in more of a satin finish or more classic looking but still a modern 2 point for this build which I intend to be a sunburst.
That is a plain old stock Fender Strat Standard trem.
@@guitarc.p.r.9675 They didn’t look like that in the 1990s.
Ok I went back and checked it out. It had been probably 2 1/2 years since I had seen it. It is a strat std. trem, but the lighter steel saddles had been added. The saddles are stock Fender. Just had to take a reminder look.
@@guitarc.p.r.9675 Thank you! I didn’t know the steel saddles and screws would fit. I think I’ll do that on my build.
I have a 2019 ultra Fender Tele, my truss rod nut is tight, I’d love to do this to mine, but that plug is what I’m afraid I’d mess up, I’m guessing they don’t sell replacement plugs in case you screw one up?
Awww, but yes they do. But it will have to be trimmed. BTW, chances are that if the nut is tight, you may have another issue.
@@guitarc.p.r.9675 any advice? I’m gonna take it to a local luthier, eventually 🤪 I’ve had it since 2019, it plays but just tight when it comes time for setups, would I be better off buying a new neck? Or is it affordably salvageable?
I’d just like to be ahead of the curve before I talk to a luthier
Repair or replacement is your call. I can not offer any suggestions simply because without having it in my hands to evaluate it I would only be guessing.
I think I prefer the bullet style truss rod nuts. What about you?
Actually My favorite is the vintage style that adjusts at the neck heel. While I have had to repair all types, that one seems to me as the most solid. The Bullet has it's own problems with cracking fingerboards, and caving in at the pressure point, ESPECIALLY on basses. The bullet nut is also a bear to remove it it is cracked or stripped out. The advantage of the American Std rod is that is is double acting in case the neck actually hapens to be too straight while under string tension. Thanks for watching!
Hi what is the brand of machinist wax you use to lubercate the nut
I don't know, the label fell off years ago. Just google machinist wax you will find some.
Qual o nome desse acabamento?? Onde encontro para comprar ??
Sorry, I need a translator.
I love the color Olive
What is “music wire”?
Music wire, aka piano wire, and spring wire is a high carbon steel rod. Very high tensile strength, and heat resistance. I used it to fabricate truss rods in my building days. It was easily available from hobby shops. I first used it in model airplane landing gear, and a model rocket launcher. It is common in everyday life. Just last week I found a section of it used as the idler arm belt tension rod in my clothes drier. Hope that helps and thanks for checking out the channel.
why so much glue on the plug?
So I would be sure it was glued well. Most of the glue is going to slide off as the plug is put in, so I use extra. Plus the extra glue makes a nice lubricant to make sure it slides in and seats quickly and easily. The rod may possibly end up with back pressure on it and I have seen factory ones be accidentally pushed out some. In the few of these I saw there was evidence of a poor glue joint. Thanks for watching.
I just hate hearing this... Fender just missing the ball on giving us a good solid fitting socket to wrench fit. All you have to do is adjust your truss rod a couple of turns and next thing you know you can't adjust anymore because the wrench wore down just from normal use. I swear we should all just stop buying from Fender until they put more effort into quality.... I have another Fender American Professional II 2022 and guess what?, the rod is stripped and not because of over tightening its because the material sucks and wears down after minimal use and we're stuck with a big bill from a luthier to have it repaired.
Hearing you say guys be careful with these just makes me so irritated.. Not at you but at Fender.. I can see your wrench is already wearing down and you just said you filed it.. CHEAP MATERIALS is the problem.. I would have to say 1 out of every ten guitarist could do what you're doing. It's a trip to the luthier and a big bill. Have you ever assembled furniture with a hex that fits properly? You can take it apart and put it back together a hundred times because the material is hard and the wrench fits solid. MADE IN CHINA TOO,, LOL Fender is a joke
I agree with most of your comment. The reason I said to be careful, was just a heads up/warning. I have customers' guitars I have worked on for years without a problem. But it only takes one slip from a hasty owner to get into trouble. Fender's excuse to me on the phone was..."in a perfect world it would fit better" I mostly use a very hard wrench turned backwards with a small socket style driver as a handle. The Fender wrenches are a joke. The round tipped/T-handle ones supplied with the instruments should be thrown away. Frankly, there is a LOT of BS all over the industry. I have been dealing with it for nearly 50 years now. I tell people all the time "If you knew what I know about this industry, you would all take up golf."
Couldn't agree more. But I'm too nearsighted for golf, and Toni I. gives me goosebumps, not Tiger W.
Funniest part of my past, 36 years ago my luther told me to "stop overpaying for these overpriced products. For less money I can build you anything you want. "
Now that I'm 4 years into building my own instruments I really really wish I had listened to him. I'm sure he was right