I was ready to go down and buy a new alternator due to bad advice on what the issue could have been and this saved me a ton of time and money. I've never had this issue before, with a battery. After following your steps, I found it was the battery. Went down, bought a new one and installed in the parking lot......and was good as new....started right up much quicker, like it should. Thank you.
Even if it measures 12.6v it could still be bad. It could be the CCA that is faulty, where it's got the voltage, but not the amps. You need a load tester as well as a multimeter to give it a more thorough test. And if all is well, then you need to check your connections for corrosion before moving to the starter motor and checking voltage there. And even then, it could be a relay, solenoid, etc etc.
Well done diagnostics from an electronics tech. I might have added internal resistance of a battery and also charge rate which is dependent on temperature. You are in Florida and if it was hot out, then 14.00V is fine for a FLA battery. Other aspects to a slow start are high resistance joints on cables and a faulty starter that draws too much.
I've been told, on modern cars full of electronics, never to jump start it with both cables connected to the battery. The ground should be on the bodywork somewhere. This, I'm told, is to avoid spikes damaging any of the multitude of control units in the car.
Great video Cliff! You have helped me out so much. If I may suggest to you to help people even more is to quickly just give a small explanation on how to use that multimeter. For example in the video you went directly to measuring the battery at 12.06 volts BUT there were several options on the mm to pick from. Quick explanation will help even the ones who know nothing about cars.
That’s a good point, Jeff. People not familiar with multi-meters wouldn’t know where to start. Especially if it’s not an auto-adjusting meter. Easy oversight though, I’m not sure I would have thought about that either
Just want to say thanks for doing this video; helped me determine that it was indeed the starter, so I didn't waste time and money on other attempts at solving it. Thank you!!
Great video! We use a midtronics battery analyzer, as long as you don't go below 9.6 V where you're cranking your starter is good. You can have a 12.65 V and be easily fooled yet the battery has no amperage.
Hell you can have 9 x 1.5V flashlight batteries (13.5V) and it still will not start your car. The internal resistance of those batteries are high whereas the internal resistance of a car battery will be in the milliohms. That is why when putting a load on a car battery, the voltage of the battery decreases. And during the life of a battery, the internal resistance increases and the capacity decreases.
My CaymanS also cranked slowly. The testing showed that it wasn't the battery and it wasn't the alternator. I was about to replace the starter. Fortunately, I found another potential cause, which is apparently a very common issue for slow cranking on Porsches. It turns out that it was exactly the problem I had. It was the corroded connection from the battery to the distribution block terminal (which is about 6 inches from the battery in the frunk). The car started perfectly fine after a little sanding to remove the corrosion on that terminal.
Great explanation....but, you didn't get to the starter - i have a slow crank condition - car starts. if the battery and alternator check out, then i'm guessing it's the starter. the question is - replace the solenoid or the crank motor - or both? can either be checked? how? Thanks for any help you can offer.
Nice. You did for get to check parasitic losses by conneting the multimeter (in current config) in series with the ground or positive termal the battery. Battery could of been low due to a faulty electronic module or closure switch drawing power in an IG off, all doors closed state. A famous ones for old 04-06 Acura TLs is a bluetooth module staying on that is located in the dome light area.
I have problem that after sitting for couple days and not warm morning, like +5 celcius, my car is cranking very slow, and if it starts up I can drive like 500 meters, shut it off and it will start instantly like a charm. And sometimes even at colder mornings like -5 celcius it starts like nothing.. Is it battery or something wrong?
Man I can not figure out what’s going on with my car. Took it to Auto Zone and Alt , Batterie and starter is good. I have a slow crank and the battery light came on for a second. I don’t understand if the battery is good then what else could it be? The mechanic did clean one terminal since the corrosion was visible on the negative but didn’t clean the other since there was no visible corrosion
Ever figure it out? Both my alternator and starter were bad, so I replaced them, but I still have hesitation on start, I'm leaning more towards the fuel regulation system now, I'm gonna go run some tests tonight
I just got a 1 ton chinese mini excavator, it has a 1 cilinder diesel engine, its near freezing outside and it is still slow cranking even when wired to a car with a running engine at high revs, the wires get hot and the starter hotter, what can i do? Since it does about 1 revolution 1,5 seconds :/
My audi Q7 3.0Tdi S line has the same problem but when i step on the throttle pedal wide open it cranks normal but when i dont it cranks really slow and doesnt start
Best like and best subscribe My Nissan Murano no start I changed the battery with a rebuilt battery but no start then changed the starter cranked but no start can you tell me sir what should I do do I have to change the spark plugs but the car cranked slow though because it was sitting for 3 months I even boosted Thanks Toronto Ontario Canada
I need help this happened to me 3 weeks ago and about 6 starts later that same day mind you, I turned the key, it clicked a few times and then out of nowhere it started cranking like a champ!!!! it was hard to turn over though, it kept long cranking but finally started, hasn't happened since!!! was this a fluke???? please help someone. BTW I checked the battery and alternator
If you're talking about the "resting" voltage (measured with the engine off after several hours not running) then 12.48V is probably a good battery. It sounds like you're saying it cranks normally but just doesn't start, which would not be a battery or alternator problem.
@@CliffsGarage Cliff...the car will cranck but won't start. In fact they will be a click noise. Car will say ignition is on but won't start. Just wondering if it's a starter, ground wire or just ignition switch issue. Do you have way of diagnosing it as DIY?
@@swaller07 yeah my car hates the cold. I had the crank sensor replaced which was causing a lot of the cranking issues but now its been acting up again slightly so who knows.
I was ready to go down and buy a new alternator due to bad advice on what the issue could have been and this saved me a ton of time and money. I've never had this issue before, with a battery. After following your steps, I found it was the battery. Went down, bought a new one and installed in the parking lot......and was good as new....started right up much quicker, like it should. Thank you.
Even if it measures 12.6v it could still be bad. It could be the CCA that is faulty, where it's got the voltage, but not the amps. You need a load tester as well as a multimeter to give it a more thorough test. And if all is well, then you need to check your connections for corrosion before moving to the starter motor and checking voltage there. And even then, it could be a relay, solenoid, etc etc.
Well done diagnostics from an electronics tech. I might have added internal resistance of a battery and also charge rate which is dependent on temperature. You are in Florida and if it was hot out, then 14.00V is fine for a FLA battery. Other aspects to a slow start are high resistance joints on cables and a faulty starter that draws too much.
I so badly needed this video.
My Subaru Impreza turbo has been slow to start and I wondered if its battery or starter. I've ruled out the alternator.
Cliff u are very greatful with ur viewers and ur relaxing mood is just what the EARTH need these days. Thank u and keep it going.
I've been told, on modern cars full of electronics, never to jump start it with both cables connected to the battery. The ground should be on the bodywork somewhere.
This, I'm told, is to avoid spikes damaging any of the multitude of control units in the car.
What about spark plugs? Curious
This was very easy to follow and very beginner friendly. I feel confident to give it a go on my own. Thank you
Great video Cliff! You have helped me out so much. If I may suggest to you to help people even more is to quickly just give a small explanation on how to use that multimeter. For example in the video you went directly to measuring the battery at 12.06 volts BUT there were several options on the mm to pick from. Quick explanation will help even the ones who know nothing about cars.
That’s a good point, Jeff. People not familiar with multi-meters wouldn’t know where to start. Especially if it’s not an auto-adjusting meter. Easy oversight though, I’m not sure I would have thought about that either
Love the video. Just subscribed. Thanks ❤
Nice video, Cliff! Informative and helpful!
Just want to say thanks for doing this video; helped me determine that it was indeed the starter, so I didn't waste time and money on other attempts at solving it. Thank you!!
These cars like fresh batteries. First thing I’d did on getting my 987.2 was a new battery
Buy far the best information I’ve ad solved my problem with pin point accuracy 👍
best explaned video At Least What I Was Able To Understand!
Great video! We use a midtronics battery analyzer, as long as you don't go below 9.6 V where you're cranking your starter is good. You can have a 12.65 V and be easily fooled yet the battery has no amperage.
Hell you can have 9 x 1.5V flashlight batteries (13.5V) and it still will not start your car. The internal resistance of those batteries are high whereas the internal resistance of a car battery will be in the milliohms. That is why when putting a load on a car battery, the voltage of the battery decreases. And during the life of a battery, the internal resistance increases and the capacity decreases.
Mines is at 14.2 and it's inconsitently cranking up slow
Thank you Cliff..recently encountered the same problem...will try out all the test..save us the diagnostic cost from the mechanics...thanx again
It's a great video sir. ❤
Thanx for sharing, Cliff!
My CaymanS also cranked slowly. The testing showed that it wasn't the battery and it wasn't the alternator. I was about to replace the starter. Fortunately, I found another potential cause, which is apparently a very common issue for slow cranking on Porsches. It turns out that it was exactly the problem I had. It was the corroded connection from the battery to the distribution block terminal (which is about 6 inches from the battery in the frunk). The car started perfectly fine after a little sanding to remove the corrosion on that terminal.
Great explanation....but, you didn't get to the starter - i have a slow crank condition - car starts. if the battery and alternator check out, then i'm guessing it's the starter. the question is - replace the solenoid or the crank motor - or both? can either be checked? how? Thanks for any help you can offer.
Fantastic video Good Buddy! Loved your explanations!!!
Nice. You did for get to check parasitic losses by conneting the multimeter (in current config) in series with the ground or positive termal the battery. Battery could of been low due to a faulty electronic module or closure switch drawing power in an IG off, all doors closed state. A famous ones for old 04-06 Acura TLs is a bluetooth module staying on that is located in the dome light area.
You have a very pleasant person and great car!
Thanks for the upload Cliff! My car has this exact same problem. I'll apply your method and see if I can figure it out.
Great video! Nothing but useful information and you’re really likable. Just subscribed and I’m looking forward to checking out the rest of your stuff
This guy rocks
Ok where did you Find that Peace and the Wires to connect with the Battery My 2009 Chevy Impala is Slow Cranking
Well explained!
Very informative
Great coupon!
How do you know if it's a fuel related issue?
I have problem that after sitting for couple days and not warm morning, like +5 celcius, my car is cranking very slow, and if it starts up I can drive like 500 meters, shut it off and it will start instantly like a charm. And sometimes even at colder mornings like -5 celcius it starts like nothing.. Is it battery or something wrong?
Same problem here, if the starter was f’d then you would think it would have trouble starting all the time right?
check mass air flow sensor
Man I can not figure out what’s going on with my car. Took it to Auto Zone and Alt , Batterie and starter is good. I have a slow crank and the battery light came on for a second. I don’t understand if the battery is good then what else could it be? The mechanic did clean one terminal since the corrosion was visible on the negative but didn’t clean the other since there was no visible corrosion
Ever figure it out? Both my alternator and starter were bad, so I replaced them, but I still have hesitation on start, I'm leaning more towards the fuel regulation system now, I'm gonna go run some tests tonight
Can’t tell if you’re Asian like me lol. Cheers for the amazing advice bro!
My mom was Japanese
My battery died 2 days ago, got a new battery the same day, now it's starting sluggishly, I have a volt meter, I will be testing it out after wrk
I just got a 1 ton chinese mini excavator, it has a 1 cilinder diesel engine, its near freezing outside and it is still slow cranking even when wired to a car with a running engine at high revs, the wires get hot and the starter hotter, what can i do? Since it does about 1 revolution 1,5 seconds :/
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My audi Q7 3.0Tdi S line has the same problem but when i step on the throttle pedal wide open it cranks normal but when i dont it cranks really slow and doesnt start
Ford e15o cranking very slow when I am trying to start it what is the cause of it I
Best like and best subscribe
My Nissan Murano no start I changed the battery with a rebuilt battery but no start then changed the starter cranked but no start can you tell me sir what should I do do I have to change the spark plugs but the car cranked slow though because it was sitting for 3 months I even boosted
Thanks
Toronto Ontario Canada
So if its cranking slow when cold, but starts right up when warm, is that typically just the battery?
Revv up your enginessss
I need help this happened to me 3 weeks ago and about 6 starts later that same day mind you, I turned the key, it clicked a few times and then out of nowhere it started cranking like a champ!!!! it was hard to turn over though, it kept long cranking but finally started, hasn't happened since!!! was this a fluke???? please help someone. BTW I checked the battery and alternator
I'm having problem with a hice bus , starting when it's hot..
or a bad ground
CCA of the battery is already low
ground to body
I think i just bought a bad new battery.It wont got to 12.5 even after a long charge on the charger. After a few cranks it goes right down to 11.9
Bad cell
With auto parts its very possible! I cant tell u how many times ive exchanged a part because the first one was defective
WHEN theres no charge light coming on that makes you wonder what else it is.
my car wll crank and won't start. battery reads 12.48v. is t good?
If you're talking about the "resting" voltage (measured with the engine off after several hours not running) then 12.48V is probably a good battery. It sounds like you're saying it cranks normally but just doesn't start, which would not be a battery or alternator problem.
@@CliffsGarage
Cliff...the car will cranck but won't start. In fact they will be a click noise. Car will say ignition is on but won't start. Just wondering if it's a starter, ground wire or just ignition switch issue. Do you have way of diagnosing it as DIY?
well my battery is bad....sitting at 12.1V lol...with car turned on its 14.5V....well, I guess bad battery is the best of the 3 problems to have...
I just got a new starter in last year, new battery two months ago and its still doing this.
Mine too... only after its warm... Cold starts are perfect... Its the starter cable. Battery, alt, and starter are fine.
@@swaller07 yeah my car hates the cold. I had the crank sensor replaced which was causing a lot of the cranking issues but now its been acting up again slightly so who knows.
@@AnnyBAdventures if it’s slow to turn over check earths