Thank you for this repair. We have the same soft spot at the door and another next to the bed at the front. I’ve been hoping I could carefully cut the flooring along the wall and cabinets and peel it back, save it. Hoping mine turns out as good as yours. Maybe I’ll post a video, too.
I just bought a used travel trailer with a soft spot. The cause was pretty easy to find - cracked “p-trap” under kitchen sink. Replaced that, now time to get into the floor. I wanted to see what I might expect. Thanks!
Awesome video. Discovers a soft spot in the middle of the floor near the refrigerator. My grey tank is underneath that part of the floor. Is this an easy repair? Would appreciate any help someone. Thanks.
15 or so years ago I had a top of the line RV made in the 1980s that originally sold for something like 50 to 80 grand! Once I started taking walls apart and such I realized just how crappy these things have been built forever. The people that slap dash them together will Mickey mouse everything that's hidden. It's just like car manufacturers now everything is crap. Amazing that only a generation ago people took pride in their product and built the stuff to last. If only I can find an old 1930s airstream that wasn't a quarter of a million dollars!
Treated plywood has Copper in it and will destroy the Aluminum underneath because you're placing dissimilar metals together. You really need to pull that out and replace it with regular plywood.
There are so many problems with this repair. Mainly your seem of subfloor needs to be on a joist or it will flex. Came here mainly to see the subfloor and structure tho.
i just bought my first camper. Ill be living in it full time for at least the winter with 2 dogs. the whole side of the tipout has a line of soft wood at one edge. theres a whole corner next to the door thats sunken in visibly and is soft to the touch, and today i notice under the table is a soft spot. very annoying. still got a great deal. It is what it is. ive been watching these videos to see what a nightmare this tear out and replacement is gonna be. surprisingly it doesnt seem too bad. i see this video is 3 years old. how that floor spot holding up? still solid?
I am wondering, having watched other such videos, if cutting the existing waferboard away from the aluminum supporting it will cause future issues...? The floors I have seen opened up seem to lack any center support and develop the soft spots in the middle where it does not exist...
What does anyone do about the floor underneath and sealing it? That seems to be the majority of the problem the rotting from underneath the water hitting it
right under the door I added quarter inch plate of metal 10 by 25 inch that fixed the soft area well after I fixed the plywood and Vinel they make these trailers to sell not for long haul everything is made cheap and light wait if you’re planning on living there for a while all these issues people are having that’s all normal you just have to reinforce some areas
How did you know where to cut? I just bought a 34' toy hauler and it has a huge patch 8'x8' I have to fix. I'm afraid to cut because I'm unsure of the floor framing. Any help would be nice. TY
In the live-and-learn class of life… too bad about the PT plywood (needs to be isolated from aluminum) and the non-supported butt joint in the floor sheathing in a high-traffic area. All fixable if it causes a problem, although if the PT/AL joint is not isolated, do that asap. Also not cleaning the old surfaces.. not adhesive friendly at all. Old contractors have challenges watching DIY.
I would use a flexible floor patch/leveler as the duct tape will potentially bunch as the trailer flexes. It also fills in that gap, so no leaking into the sub floor can occur (wet Styrofoam will rot the floor all over again.
Why not just treat the damaged area with wood hardener followed by a hard putty, clean up the linoleum and glue it back down and caulk around the door jamb with a good silicone caulk? Especially if it's just a small soft spot.
Good point. That should be bleached and it will kill the mould. But as long as there is no more moisture under that floor the mould should not continue to grow. Mould needs 3 things to thrive - food - moisture - oxygen so if it stays dry then he "should" be fine.....but to be sure - bleach it!
If your going to make a so called “diy” video at the very least be clean. Vacuum all that garbage before laying down the piece of wood. Viewers watch a few other videos before the prude convinces you
Yes. I noticed those Wheel covers on yours are alot nicer than what you typically find.
Thank you for this repair. We have the same soft spot at the door and another next to the bed at the front. I’ve been hoping I could carefully cut the flooring along the wall and cabinets and peel it back, save it. Hoping mine turns out as good as yours. Maybe I’ll post a video, too.
I just bought a used travel trailer with a soft spot. The cause was pretty easy to find - cracked “p-trap” under kitchen sink. Replaced that, now time to get into the floor. I wanted to see what I might expect. Thanks!
Thank you. We have the exect same Octane and I need to do both entrance and bathroom areas.
Awesome video. Discovers a soft spot in the middle of the floor near the refrigerator. My grey tank is underneath that part of the floor. Is this an easy repair? Would appreciate any help someone.
Thanks.
Just imagine if was built with marine grade plywood to begin with
Good job. Keep her going.
15 or so years ago I had a top of the line RV made in the 1980s that originally sold for something like 50 to 80 grand! Once I started taking walls apart and such I realized just how crappy these things have been built forever. The people that slap dash them together will Mickey mouse everything that's hidden. It's just like car manufacturers now everything is crap. Amazing that only a generation ago people took pride in their product and built the stuff to last. If only I can find an old 1930s airstream that wasn't a quarter of a million dollars!
Treated plywood has Copper in it and will destroy the Aluminum underneath because you're placing dissimilar metals together. You really need to pull that out and replace it with regular plywood.
This is why i always come to the comments lol
There are so many problems with this repair. Mainly your seem of subfloor needs to be on a joist or it will flex. Came here mainly to see the subfloor and structure tho.
Ya did good. I have the same problem I'm looking to repair on my dads Nomad with the same floor but larger area.
You repaired the damage but you didn’t fix the problem. You should have taken the threshold out and run caulk or butyl rubber under it.
Good point. I have the same spot in the door so i appreciated his video so much and also your comment. Thanks.
Also, if that support is metal you're going to have condensation under the floor too.
Nice job
did you say you built the wheel well boxes? I NEED TWO TANDEM BOXES ASAP.
i just bought my first camper. Ill be living in it full time for at least the winter with 2 dogs. the whole side of the tipout has a line of soft wood at one edge. theres a whole corner next to the door thats sunken in visibly and is soft to the touch, and today i notice under the table is a soft spot. very annoying. still got a great deal. It is what it is. ive been watching these videos to see what a nightmare this tear out and replacement is gonna be. surprisingly it doesnt seem too bad.
i see this video is 3 years old. how that floor spot holding up? still solid?
I am wondering, having watched other such videos, if cutting the existing waferboard away from the aluminum supporting it will cause future issues...? The floors I have seen opened up seem to lack any center support and develop the soft spots in the middle where it does not exist...
Love the dog picture made me laugh 😂 (in the beginning)
What does anyone do about the floor underneath and sealing it? That seems to be the majority of the problem the rotting from underneath the water hitting it
What was the thickness of wood you used to match the orginal flooring?
I have same damage. Think it might be from the door stop on outside being loose and not sealed well.
Same. We add a little class to our plywood floors with sharpie grain and stain
How would you know if there was wiring or pipes under that part of the floor?
Thought r/v's come new that way
What adhesive was used on vinyl?
Should have sprayed with mould spray while you had open.😅
Great job.
I think I heard yo say that you did some work in the wheel wells before. S that right?
right under the door I added quarter inch plate of metal 10 by 25 inch that fixed the soft area well after I fixed the plywood and Vinel they make these trailers to sell not for long haul everything is made cheap and light wait if you’re planning on living there for a while all these issues people are having that’s all normal you just have to reinforce some areas
How did you know where to cut? I just bought a 34' toy hauler and it has a huge patch 8'x8' I have to fix. I'm afraid to cut because I'm unsure of the floor framing. Any help would be nice. TY
Use a circular saw and set the heigh of the blade to the thickness of the ply wood. That will make sure that you don’t cut into anything
@@whipple7362 Much appreciated, thank you
What size plywood did you use? I have the same camper and exact same
Soft spot
Is that 1/4 inch ?
I’d like to know how deep to set the saw ? Is that 1/4 inch plywood? I have a huge soft spot in the kitchen
What type of glue did u use ?
In the live-and-learn class of life… too bad about the PT plywood (needs to be isolated from aluminum) and the non-supported butt joint in the floor sheathing in a high-traffic area. All fixable if it causes a problem, although if the PT/AL joint is not isolated, do that asap. Also not cleaning the old surfaces.. not adhesive friendly at all. Old contractors have challenges watching DIY.
I agree a little silicone And would be perfect
👏👏GREAT JOB!!!👏👏❣🎬🔨🔧👷♂
Those small ass screws pissed me off. I'd put at least a 2inch in there
Anyone know where I can fix a floor of rv in tri state are
I fix RV floors
@@jayaay3539 I know this is a year old but where are you located?
You could duct tape yoUr seems for extra smooth
I would use a flexible floor patch/leveler as the duct tape will potentially bunch as the trailer flexes. It also fills in that gap, so no leaking into the sub floor can occur (wet Styrofoam will rot the floor all over again.
Why not just treat the damaged area with wood hardener followed by a hard putty, clean up the linoleum and glue it back down and caulk around the door jamb with a good silicone caulk? Especially if it's just a small soft spot.
You put moldy flooring back down
Good point. That should be bleached and it will kill the mould. But as long as there is no more moisture under that floor the mould should not continue to grow. Mould needs 3 things to thrive - food - moisture - oxygen so if it stays dry then he "should" be fine.....but to be sure - bleach it!
I was thinking the exact same thing. Clean it up before you put it back down. If you are going to the effort of fixing the spot, do it right!!
If your going to make a so called “diy” video at the very least be clean. Vacuum all that garbage before laying down the piece of wood. Viewers watch a few other videos before the prude convinces you