How to reset rear electronic parking brake! Audi/VW No Vcds needed! M
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2021
- Quick video on resetting rear electronic caliper on VW Tiguan! And same process on Audi models with electronic parking brake. No VCDS needed!!
This is how I worked on my car. I’m not to be responsible if you follow my way of doing it and mess something up in your car. Everything is at your own risk. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Yup...that's essentially what I did...brakes work great
This is genius, my Passat was stuck on my driveway with totally worn out pads. Tried to take the motor off but Torx bolts rusted... Sorted now with some suspect wiring from the battery! Thank you so much from the UK!
Great video. Thank you for sharing this information. Really appreciated.
Good vid, have done this before, no prob. But from memory all I did was switch the two wires the opposite way round to wond it in
You can also take the black Parking brake box off of the caliper and rewind that plunger inside of there with a drill and I believe its a T25 or T30 Torx or equivalent size allen bit. Much easier doing it that way honestly. Took me like 20 minutes to do the whole job.
Great vid thank you, but how did you release the brake with gnision switched off, or did you leave keys in ignision ?.
Thanks for sharing.
It’s best not to apply power to the actuator like that, especially when it meets resistance like that, as there are belt drives and gear drives within the actuator that can be damaged.
Best to remove the actuator and wind the brake by hand.
This is of course in the absence of a scan tool, or diagnostic software which is ultimately best practice.
Thanks for this, was a bit worried it would be throwing error codes etc - it did at first but after driving it all was good 👍
I did this and now have a electronic parking brake malfunction light, do you have a solution for this?
Very helpful thank you
i try this at audi a6 2008 still electronic parking brake lamp on and epb not working what should i do?
Tnx for sharing
You can take the motor off and use a torx to lower and raise the piston.
How bro? piston is stuck i cant lower it
In my dads A4 Avant from 2011 we could push the caliper back like you normally would and it would calibrate on its own
Yes if it doesn’t have electronic parking brake it will just be like a normal brake service.
Thank you ❤
Tnx👍
Lol thanks that's so simple
You're welcome!
Please help Boss ! I Have My Audi A4 When I turn on ignition It says Parking Brake Malfunction !!! And It Is Not showing Gear P,R,N,D,S.From Few days I was getting the blink on the handbrakes And then Suddenly It started giving error Parking Brake Malfunction !!!!! Please help me For This !
Did you ever find a fix for this? I’m having same issue and no solutions online
I did this and now have a electronic parking brake malfunction light, do you have a solution for this?
When I tried to do rear brake change, i took the brake pads off, wondered if I could recover the piston by using the parking brake switch. Then I saw brake fluid is everywhere on the ground, parking brake light is on dash now. What should I do?
Sounds like you might have over extended the caliper. Might be able to wind it back in and save it but might need a new caliper.
You can take the motor off and unwind the EPB with a torx on the back of the caliper. You will need to compress the piston back into the caliper. I did this last Tuesday.
You should do this with the caliper mounted and before removing the brake pads . Why ? cause if you push the piston out all the way , you are screwed,
I did just that on Tuesday.
@cy_young_9104 how do you fix it once it's all the way out?
@@dudndadn12212 You will to open the bleed screw , clean the piston and re-insert t. Then replace the pads, set the caliper and pray.
What is the tool your using called that’s pretty handy
It’s a power probe 3. Can get them on Amazon for like 100$ I think.
Could that car be any dirtier?
You should see it now!
Excellent idea, where you get that gadget? 👍👍
I got mine off Amazon! Very handy tool to have.
@@prestofixit3518 Can you provide the link? Would love to get my hands on that!
@@chrisdewitt1 just look up power probe 3
Is the handbrake locked on or is it an intermittent fault?
@@cannonball7984 not sure what you mean? The parking brake works fine after this.
Just start the car and remove and brake??
Did you even watch the video?
Hi! Do you have email? I have a question pertaining to my 2013 VW TIGUAN.
Pdiddy9393@gmail.com
Be careful not to let them touch in while they're in there. I tried this and they touched by accident and I'm pretty sure that's why I'm getting "parking brake malfunction" warning lights on the dash
@@desertmandan123 Are u talking about module for the parking brake?
@@hcic8738 No
@@desertmandan123 Great talk. We'll have to do this again some time soon
@@desertmandan123 Straight from the battery with 2 Alligator clips
Saw a lil spark near the 2 prongs when I accidentally tapped the 2 gator clips while they were comnected
It's works but eventually it causes a parking brake malfunction... brakes must be recalibrated after they are changed
It’s been years since doing this and parking brake still works everyday! Not a single error since doing it this way.
DO NOT do this that way. You still need to do calibration through computer after changing brake pads.
My thought exactly 😅
Thats why its turns so shitty at the end when he he is turning the brake disc. Got to calibrate with computer. Opens and closes a few times but it runs free
It’s been well over a year now and no problems at all! Parking brake works and releases every time and pads are still in great shape.
@@prestofixit3518 Good but it won't be same on every model, may depend on the year/model or trim version
@@axxesaxxes8810 It calibrates on the first operation after you have changed the pads when you turn the ignition on and operate the park brake..................
Good way to ruin it
9 months in and still works fine!
I did this and now have a electronic parking brake malfunction light, do you have a solution for this?
Just a proper scan tool before you didn’t fry anything. It will work out cheaper.
Still working completely fine over a year later!
That's turning quite rough at the end, that will just heat up a burn the pads....
It’s been over a year and 40k miles. Still working good
Actually that is normal for newly installed pads and discs prior to driving and operating the brakes. The pads need to be bedded in which happens over a few gentle braking operations after which if you have installed quality parts will give you excellent braking. Just make sure not to brake heavily for the first day or so of driving if possible.
@@andrewwatson5360That’s the complete opposite way of how you’re supposed to bed in new brakes lol. You want to bring them up to high temp by performing moderate-to hard stops without coming to a complete stop (like hard braking from 40 to 5 mph for example) after hearing the brakes and completing the bedding procedure you want to drive for awhile with minimal brake use to cool the brakes back down. That’s a proper bedding procedure. What you advised, (being very gentle after installing new brakes is exactly what you don’t want to do, I’d doesn’t allow the pad to come up to temperature where it can leave an even friction coating on the rotor, and mate to the new rotor if also installed, causing uneven friction deposits etc.
@@ThumperG Really ? Not sure what experience you have had with disc brakes but I'd recommend you follow the (quality) manufacturers fitting instructions if you want the rotors to last without distortion.
One of my current vehicles which I have owned from new still has the original discs and pads on the rear after 195000 klms and I replaced the fronts at 145000 klms and I live in a hilly area and do a fair amount of towing with it.
When others drive that vehicle they always get caught out by how grippy and effective the brakes are in comparison to most other cars.
I maintain the brakes in my other cars as well which include sports and performance vehicles all of which perform excellently with no pulsating, brake fade or needing excessive effort.
Brakes are like any other part of a car. Treat them with care and they will perform as you need them when you are driving hard. If not unless you are on the track equipped with racing standard calipers, pads and discs you won't have any brakes after the third or fourth corner particularly if they have been abused initially.
It's excessive braking creating lots of heat that causes glazing of pads and distortion in rotors particularly in cheap brands.
@@andrewwatson5360 Here’s a bedding process from Brake Performance which is pretty much the standard for bedding in brakes on your everyday vehicle: Note the key words like where it says to stop “AGGRESSIVELY” several times, and how the point of bedding is to “HEAT UP” the brake pads and rotors. I’ve seen many manufacturers bedding procedures and I can’t think of a single one that said “just be very gently with the brakes for awhile and then you’ll be good to go” LOL Like I already said, that’s the exact opposite of how you bed in brakes.
***Perform 3-4 medium stops from 45mph. Slightly more aggressive than normal braking. You don't need to come to a complete stop for each pass. This brings the brake rotors up to temperature so they are not exposed to sudden thermal shock.
Make 8-10 aggressive stops from 60mph down to 15mph. For this set of semi-stops, you want to be firm and aggressive, but not to the point where ABS activates and the wheels lock up. It's important to note that you don't come to a complete stop but rather a semi-stop (~15mph). Accelerate back up to 60mph as soon as you slowed down to your semi-stop.
The brake pads and brake rotors are extremely hot at this point and sitting on one point will imprint the pad material onto the surface unevenly. This can cause vibration and uneven braking.
You may notice that your brakes will start fading, and sometimes smoke, after the 6th or 7th pass. This fade will stabilize and will gradually recess once your brakes have cooled down to normal operating temperatures. Drive carefully as your brakes may feel softer for the next few minutes.
Try not to come to a complete stop and find a stretch of road where you can coast for 5-10 minutes, preferably without using your brakes.
After the break-in procedure, there may be a light blue tint on your brake rotors as well as a gray film deposit. The blue tint shows that your rotor has reached the appropriate temperature during the bedding process, and the gray film is some of the pad transfer material.
Some cars and trucks require two cycles of the bedding in procedure. This may be the case if you are using old brake rotors with new brake pads, or new brake rotors with old pads. This may also be the case if you don't think you fully heated up the brakes in the initial bedding procedure. In any case, it's required that you wait at least 10-15 minutes between each cycle as you don't want them to overlap.