The contacts have a ultra thin coating of silver plating when the switch is new. Ants will commonly get in between the contacts and then get fried! They are attracted to ozone that is created when the contact spark. Rather than first useing sand paper, try using electrical contact cleaner. Turn off power! Spray several times. Spray it on a very thin piece of card stock paper, then run it through each of the 4 contacts, while manually closing the contacts, as you spray more cleaner through the contact points. Let this dry well for at least a half hour. Turn power back on, and see if this will work. If no luck, go to 660 grit sand paper, or finer if one can find it. Auto paint supplies has very fine sand paper.
This was very helpful. You talk slow, but thanks to the 1.5x CZcams speed adjustment I was able to retain my sanity. I kept thinking the contacts were normally open, now I understand. Thank you!
Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you!! I got my girlfriend's pump working again since it was intermittently pissing water at very low pressure, and when the pump engaged it was like a fire hose.
This is amazing illustration. Thanks and greetings from Sri Lanka. Recently I find the pressure pump starts almost the flow stops and in the gauge it is noticed that the pump starts only when the pressure drops to zero. I messed around the two nuts but no change. I am sure you have a good piece of advice for me. Thank you in advance.
If the gauge goes to zero before the switch contacts close, there could be a blockage in the fittings where the switch goes into the main plumbing. That is common if you have high iron in your water. Another symptom of that problem is sometimes having really high pressure. I hope this helps.
the switch on the side for me helped when i had to prime the pump or if your having issues from pump to well. I prefer the switch because if you run out of water at the well or busted line the switch will shut off your pump when it goes below 10psi, thus not burning up your expensive pump, so for a few dollars more for a switch with a lever is well worth it,
Yes. The lever has its benefits but you have to know how it works and how to use it. Many folks don't want to mess with it. For example if the power goes out and the pressure gets too low, most people don't want to have to reset the thing when the power comes back on, especially if it's in a crawl space. Some people do but most people don't.
Loved it, way to keep it light, fun and informative with common problems! Just the info i was needing. 1 question: any lubrication or spray to help extend and minimize oxidation?
Thanks. To answer your question, not really. They have a pretty long life when used under normal circumstances. I'm sure there is something you could spray on there if you wanted but for the price of the unit, it's not really worth it. I've seen the things last 30 years. Not bad for a $20 part.
check to make sure that pressure tube isn't clogged including the tube and the opening on the tank side as it can get clogged up with sediments rust etc.... use a metal coat hanger and make sure the opening on the tank side is clear ... the coat hanger should go inside the pump a few inches... that was my issue
Good video! I just replaced mine with a new one. But I have a question..... while the water is running, does the switch normally click on and off during the time the the water is being used!?!
The switch should click on and off but at a very slow rate. If it clicks on and off more than once during a toilet flush, you probably have a water logged tank.
Lenny; I had to turn my pump off and drain the water so i could change a 5 micron filter, and now the pressure in my tank is at 0. My pressure switch does NOT have a lever, and the pressure is not rising when i turn the power back on. How do I re-start my pump?!? Can anyone help? Everything I find online only describes the method that requires you have a lever!! Any help is greatly appreciated
Make sure you have power going through the switch. There is no method to turn a pump on other than supplying power to it. If the switch is old and the contacts look burnt, it's possible you are not getting power through it. Sometimes a light tap with a screwdriver handle to the side of the switch gets it going if thats the case.
It is not uncommon for there to be a slight arc when the contacts open and close. If there are sparks flying out of the thing, that probably needs attention.
I would like to have one of these to add to my booster pump that I have hooked up to a water tank with a trigger to release water. My question is, once I let off the trigger, will it turn pump off and once I pull trigger, will it start pump again. Thanks
I would make sure your wiring connections are good. Then if you're getting voltage through the switch, I would check voltage at the well (assuming we're talking about a submersible pump)
I want to create a shower loop which recycles 2 gallons of water when taking a shower. It basically fills up a container with fresh water then pumps that water through a water filter and out the showerhead; recycling the water in the container for the duration of your shower. Can I use one of these to measure 2 gallons of water to fill the container?
I don't think so. It is activated by pressure. If you were pumping water into a pressurized container, you might be able to get it to work but I don't fully understand what you're trying to do. So...Maybe?
A float switch would be more appropriate. Water level rises up the switch closes and activates the pump to send the water, then level drops and shuts pump off.
Thank you!! Very informative video!! I just replaced my tank as well as this device, but am having a problem that is mind boggling. My settings are 40/60. When the pressure drops just past 50, it dives to 40 immediately, contacts clicking twice, then fills the tank. This was the reason I replaced the tank thinking it was the tank, but same problem. Any idea? Thanks, again for the great video!
Check the air in the tank when there is no pressure on the system. It should be a couple pounds less than the turn on pressure. Example: if the turn on pressure is 40, there should be about 38 psi of air on an empty tank. It sounds like there is too much air in the tank. Good luck.
@@lennyc624I've checked it and it is set at 38. My cut in is way out of whack. The cut off is 60, but the cut in is just below 50. It then drops to 40 on the gauge. I've replaced the pressure switch as well as the tank. Thanks for your help!
@@lmd6204 In a lot of cases, the gauge on the system is not accurate, in fact, they are rarely accurate. Sometimes that can make for a lot of unnecessary head scratching.
@@lmd6204 usually the oil filled ones are pretty good but they're a little pricey. If you just put a new, cheap one on there it should work fine for a while.
Any local hardware store should carry the fittings you would need but hey, if you want to weld it, go for it. Perhaps braising might be a reasonable option. Either way I would take it apart first so you don't melt the rubber diaphragm. Good luck
Thanks for you information I have same control device for Pump When I turn on the pump switch it didn't contact each other, so I contacted them physically and it worked and maintained the power after 1 minute pume was off Do you think My pump is broken??
Your description of the problem is not clear to me. If you manually closed the contacts of the pressure switch and then the pump worked, your pump isn't broken.
@@lennyc624 Sorry abouthe my English, when I closed my contacts manually, the Pump worked and after 30 sec contacts opened by itself and The pump didn't work
@@simonyang3838 it sounds to me like the pump system is working like it should. The switch contacts should open automatically after the pump has built up enough pressure. If you don't have water at your faucets, you might have a different problem
P A, you might have a pump that’s going out. Just to be sure, put a volt meter on the load side of the switch and see if it shows full power when the pump is not running. This will rule out the switch being the problem. I would also check volts at the well also to make sure all is good to that point. If you have constant voltage at the well and the pump is still kicking in and out, you will probably have to pull the pump. If you have an amp meter, you can see what is happening while the pump is not running. If high amps, bad pump. Probably. I would have someone who knows what they’re doing look at it before you buy a new pump though. Most well guys I know will work for beer.
since all it does is open and close contacts, it will work with any voltage as long as it doesn't exceed the maximum amperage in which case it would burn up the contacts prematurely. As far as the pressure side is concerned, it will work as long as the pump is capable of producing enough pressure to actuate the switch. They typically are not reliable with maximum pressures lower than 40psi. You can get them to work but that's really not what they were designed for.
You can but you'll have a hard time getting enough pressure out of it. They make the same unit with a stronger spring for air compressors that can adjust to 120 psi or so.
😂 That Coors has a lot of unnecessary drawn out explaining that would drive an ADHD person to find the next CZcamsr! Luckily, I'm not one of those cases so good job. LOL
The contacts have a ultra thin coating of silver plating when the switch is new. Ants will commonly get in between the contacts and then get fried! They are attracted to ozone that is created when the contact spark. Rather than first useing sand paper, try using electrical contact cleaner. Turn off power! Spray several times. Spray it on a very thin piece of card stock paper, then run it through each of the 4 contacts, while manually closing the contacts, as you spray more cleaner through the contact points. Let this dry well for at least a half hour. Turn power back on, and see if this will work. If no luck, go to 660 grit sand paper, or finer if one can find it. Auto paint supplies has very fine sand paper.
The best explanation on anything i’ve seen and heard
Lol
VERY helpful! The pressure switch on my air compressor is acting up. Now I can take it apart, and figure out what is wrong. Thanks very much!
Good stuff. thanks for your time. It's appreciated.
This was very helpful. You talk slow, but thanks to the 1.5x CZcams speed adjustment I was able to retain my sanity. I kept thinking the contacts were normally open, now I understand. Thank you!
shea sommerville lol, thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for talking slow so I didnt have to replay the video 5 times!
That was just great! Appreciate it much- Kudos!
Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you!! I got my girlfriend's pump working again since it was intermittently pissing water at very low pressure, and when the pump engaged it was like a fire hose.
I understood Your explanation so much actually made me fix a problem I was having with my pump. Thanks a lot 👍🏽
I'm glad you understood my incoherent blathering.
I'm glad to have been helpful.
Thanks only had to watch the first two minutes of your video to get the answer I needed very helpful thanks
Incredibly helpful, thank you!
Very well explained. Good belch too!
Thanks, that was really great!
Good info on high pressure adjust
This is amazing illustration. Thanks and greetings from Sri Lanka. Recently I find the pressure pump starts almost the flow stops and in the gauge it is noticed that the pump starts only when the pressure drops to zero. I messed around the two nuts but no change. I am sure you have a good piece of advice for me. Thank you in advance.
If the gauge goes to zero before the switch contacts close, there could be a blockage in the fittings where the switch goes into the main plumbing. That is common if you have high iron in your water. Another symptom of that problem is sometimes having really high pressure. I hope this helps.
"Because that's how people talk"
Thanks for this video.. I learned a lot.. 🇵🇭🇵🇭🇵🇭
the switch on the side for me helped when i had to prime the pump or if your having issues from pump to well. I prefer the switch because if you run out of water at the well or busted line the switch will shut off your pump when it goes below 10psi, thus not burning up your expensive pump, so for a few dollars more for a switch with a lever is well worth it,
Yes. The lever has its benefits but you have to know how it works and how to use it. Many folks don't want to mess with it. For example if the power goes out and the pressure gets too low, most people don't want to have to reset the thing when the power comes back on, especially if it's in a crawl space. Some people do but most people don't.
U know this mans knows what he is talking about has a coors light next to him
Loved it, way to keep it light, fun and informative with common problems! Just the info i was needing. 1 question: any lubrication or spray to help extend and minimize oxidation?
Thanks. To answer your question, not really. They have a pretty long life when used under normal circumstances. I'm sure there is something you could spray on there if you wanted but for the price of the unit, it's not really worth it. I've seen the things last 30 years. Not bad for a $20 part.
You sure saved my ass!
Good video
check to make sure that pressure tube isn't clogged including the tube and the opening on the tank side as it can get clogged up with sediments rust etc.... use a metal coat hanger and make sure the opening on the tank side is clear ... the coat hanger should go inside the pump a few inches... that was my issue
Good video! I just replaced mine with a new one. But I have a question..... while the water is running, does the switch normally click on and off during the time the the water is being used!?!
The switch should click on and off but at a very slow rate. If it clicks on and off more than once during a toilet flush, you probably have a water logged tank.
@@lennyc624 how to solve that problem?
@@lesterlucar6896 Drain the water out of the tank completely.
Thank you!!
Will this switch protect the pump if it’s running dry?
Not this one but they make switches just like this with a lever on the side. Those are made to protect the pump from a run dry situation.
@@lennyc624 if I am using this for irrigation, and my pump delivers higher then 60psi, it will turn off the pump?
@@marvinkassab9285 yes
If I have two jockey pumps and two main pumps,do I need two pressure switches?
Lenny; I had to turn my pump off and drain the water so i could change a 5 micron filter, and now the pressure in my tank is at 0. My pressure switch does NOT have a lever, and the pressure is not rising when i turn the power back on. How do I re-start my pump?!? Can anyone help? Everything I find online only describes the method that requires you have a lever!! Any help is greatly appreciated
Make sure you have power going through the switch. There is no method to turn a pump on other than supplying power to it. If the switch is old and the contacts look burnt, it's possible you are not getting power through it. Sometimes a light tap with a screwdriver handle to the side of the switch gets it going if thats the case.
Also make sure you have the proper voltage whether its 110 or 220.
How long does it take to pressurize? My switch has power going to it but it’s still not doing anything
Should the contact points be sparking? The entire pump/motor/switch assembly is brand new and installed by a pro. Thanks
It is not uncommon for there to be a slight arc when the contacts open and close. If there are sparks flying out of the thing, that probably needs attention.
I would like to have one of these to add to my booster pump that I have hooked up to a water tank with a trigger to release water. My question is, once I let off the trigger, will it turn pump off and once I pull trigger, will it start pump again. Thanks
Thanks alot
I just changed a pressure switch 30/50. I adjusted to 40/60. I turned turn off 2 turns now it closes but pump don't kick on. Why?
I would make sure your wiring connections are good. Then if you're getting voltage through the switch, I would check voltage at the well (assuming we're talking about a submersible pump)
I want to create a shower loop which recycles 2 gallons of water when taking a shower. It basically fills up a container with fresh water then pumps that water through a water filter and out the showerhead; recycling the water in the container for the duration of your shower. Can I use one of these to measure 2 gallons of water to fill the container?
I don't think so. It is activated by pressure. If you were pumping water into a pressurized container, you might be able to get it to work but I don't fully understand what you're trying to do. So...Maybe?
A float switch would be more appropriate. Water level rises up the switch closes and activates the pump to send the water, then level drops and shuts pump off.
i'm not sure if this channel is still active but my question is, can that rubber (diaphragm) be replaced?
It can. I don't know how easy it is to get one. For the price of the switch, it's worth it just to replace the whole thing IMO
@@lennyc624 Thank you for the response and suggestion 🥰
what will happen if we remove the small spring?
عشاق المستطيل الأخضر You will lose differential adjustability. Other than that, it will work fine.
Thank you!! Very informative video!! I just replaced my tank as well as this device, but am having a problem that is mind boggling. My settings are 40/60. When the pressure drops just past 50, it dives to 40 immediately, contacts clicking twice, then fills the tank. This was the reason I replaced the tank thinking it was the tank, but same problem. Any idea? Thanks, again for the great video!
Check the air in the tank when there is no pressure on the system. It should be a couple pounds less than the turn on pressure. Example: if the turn on pressure is 40, there should be about 38 psi of air on an empty tank. It sounds like there is too much air in the tank. Good luck.
@@lennyc624I've checked it and it is set at 38. My cut in is way out of whack. The cut off is 60, but the cut in is just below 50. It then drops to 40 on the gauge. I've replaced the pressure switch as well as the tank. Thanks for your help!
@@lmd6204 In a lot of cases, the gauge on the system is not accurate, in fact, they are rarely accurate. Sometimes that can make for a lot of unnecessary head scratching.
@@lennyc624I was beginning to wonder about that. Are there any gauges that are better? Thanks for your help!
@@lmd6204 usually the oil filled ones are pretty good but they're a little pricey. If you just put a new, cheap one on there it should work fine for a while.
Wow, I didn't know those ran 120V Lenny. My zone valves are all DC voltage and they look the same. That's a learning moment for ME.
Rob's Wrenches glad you learned something. Thanks for the support, Rob.
No problem Lenny.
can i.weld.this? i.dont have couplers.and fittings
Any local hardware store should carry the fittings you would need but hey, if you want to weld it, go for it. Perhaps braising might be a reasonable option. Either way I would take it apart first so you don't melt the rubber diaphragm. Good luck
Thanks for you information
I have same control device for Pump
When I turn on the pump switch it didn't contact each other, so I contacted them physically and it worked and maintained the power after 1 minute pume was off
Do you think My pump is broken??
Your description of the problem is not clear to me. If you manually closed the contacts of the pressure switch and then the pump worked, your pump isn't broken.
@@lennyc624 Sorry abouthe my English, when I closed my contacts manually, the Pump worked and after 30 sec contacts opened by itself and The pump didn't work
@@lennyc624 and then I tried to close contacts manually again but contacts did not close and maintain (means that the pump didn't work)
@@simonyang3838 it sounds to me like the pump system is working like it should. The switch contacts should open automatically after the pump has built up enough pressure. If you don't have water at your faucets, you might have a different problem
hi, my switch contact point don't open and my pump runs for a couple of seconds then stops. I cleaned all contact points but still the same. Help pls.
P A, you might have a pump that’s going out. Just to be sure, put a volt meter on the load side of the switch and see if it shows full power when the pump is not running. This will rule out the switch being the problem. I would also check volts at the well also to make sure all is good to that point. If you have constant voltage at the well and the pump is still kicking in and out, you will probably have to pull the pump. If you have an amp meter, you can see what is happening while the pump is not running. If high amps, bad pump. Probably. I would have someone who knows what they’re doing look at it before you buy a new pump though. Most well guys I know will work for beer.
Is there one that looks at the pressure interning the pump and would opens when pressure drops? I am trying to protect the pump
The ones with the lever on the side are made to open when the pressure gets too low.
@@lennyc624 thanks
for how long does the pressure switch last?
I've seen them last 25 years but if a tank is waterlogged and you have a short cycling situation, they can burn up very quickly.
Will it work at a 12v pump?
since all it does is open and close contacts, it will work with any voltage as long as it doesn't exceed the maximum amperage in which case it would burn up the contacts prematurely. As far as the pressure side is concerned, it will work as long as the pump is capable of producing enough pressure to actuate the switch. They typically are not reliable with maximum pressures lower than 40psi. You can get them to work but that's really not what they were designed for.
Can I purchase a diaphragm for the switch anywhere?
I doubt it. Its usually a better idea just to change out the whole switch. They're usually under $20
Can i use that on air compressor sir?
You can but you'll have a hard time getting enough pressure out of it. They make the same unit with a stronger spring for air compressors that can adjust to 120 psi or so.
sand paper 250 grit, you're welcome...
Hey Lenny.....substitute "That's how people talk" with "That's what she said when the bed broke" .....sounds a lot more professional.
Ray, thanks for the tip.
I Don't know what happened but I'm not seeing your messages no more for some reason.
😂 That Coors has a lot of unnecessary drawn out explaining that would drive an ADHD person to find the next CZcamsr! Luckily, I'm not one of those cases so good job. LOL
I agree. I drive myself to drink. It's a vicious cycle
That Stuff will Rot your Brain....
My 40 60 works awesome