Belt 3D Printing: what models work & what models don't
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- čas přidán 17. 12. 2022
- Hopefully this helps you pick the best printer for the job when you're trying to decide on using a manual-part-removal printer or an automated belt printer.
Check out the Ender EZ Belt project! • DIY Simple Ender 3 Bel...
Models used as reference:
www.printables.com/model/3383...
www.printables.com/model/2252... - Věda a technologie
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Great explanation of the strengths of belt printers!
Thank you Andrew!
Thanks, Adam- love my Powerbelt, nozzles, and...candy!!
Happy to hear it!
3D printing professor made a video about using a belt printer as a bed slinger. It would be so cool if the slicers would allow for that. I believe we would only need to have a nozzle with the bottom 45 degree part chopped off in order not to ram back into what is printed and we could ONLY have belt printers
That would be cool! Like a lot of more advanced 3D printing stuff, I think the slicing is the hard part.
I just got an IdeaFormer IR3 V1 which is actually the 2nd version.
A project I'm working on is a Christmas ornament so basically a ball on a ring.
I get a little roughness where the ball and ring meet on the front, I think this could be easily fixed with a small support.
I get a circular layer lines at about 2/3 the way to the top on the back or nozzle side, much like a traditional printer would on the top of a ball .
I'm curious if more shells/layers or a bit tighter layer height might help.
What has amazed me is the lack of layer lines.
I'm running the stock .4 nozzle at .2 layers and the lines are all but non existent.
The printer also came with.6, .8 and 1.0 nozzles I've yet to try .
I'm loving your videos and how you explain everything.
I can't wait to apply some of your hacks to make prints faster and or stronger.
Thanks for the videos and your insight 👍
Agree - a little support at the start of the print could help with leading edge roughness.
I think you're describing 'stair stepping' on the rounded surface. This is decreased with angled belt printing but not for all models. Smaller layer heights should help with that, or rotating the model a bit.
U R explaining the theoretical parameters and differentiation's regarding the belt functionality in a great way.
Here's a design idea for you, which can re revolutionize this concept and machine..
Perhaps, since U R well occupied in your ability to design the machine level functionality, you should make a dual function unit that has a dual set of rails and extrusion heads, with another at right angles to the one in use now (which is then two 45 degree angles to the Z axis). That can then extrude going the other way, and MAKE THE BELT BI DIRECTIONAL with the servo, so it can extrude in both directions on the Z axis. It would solve the overhang in both directions by having the slicer decide which head to lower and extrude with based on the angle and move it appropriately in that direction. The differentiation between the two would resolve itself in the slicer for laying down the material into the complete printed object. That would make vases, and rotors and globe shaped items perfect from both sides.
OR better yet an extruder that has a dual set of heads at right angles that will work in both directions.
The flow can easily be controlled with servo switching in the head.
The whole key is moving the belt back and forth. U Can print the one side and then move it the other way and print the other side.
The design of the slicer to create the differential gcoding is a fantastic programming challenge.
Thank you! Sounds like an interesting setup. I'm not sure I have the programming skills to get slicing for that type of machine to work nicely.
solid video the community needed. wish there was belt slicer with M1 mac support tho
Thank you! Check out Kiri-Moto, it runs in any web browser (I think, I haven't tested them all 😅)
I have an X1 carbon that is busy printing 6" diameter rings that are about 1/2" thick each direction and they take 1 hour each, where-as a CR-10 with the same settings can do it in a little over 4 hours. How does a belt printer stack up to a bed slinger in speed? Is there a Voron version?
Speed is going to depend on the 3D model. I've found for thin, flat parts, they're much better and faster on a 90-degree printer. Slicing a thin model turns a print job that could be 10 layers, into a print job that takes several hundred.
Would locomotives be a good job for these type of 3d printers?
Like a model of a locomotive?
Good video, but some critueques...
Audio.. Sounds like you are in a conference call. Don't know what other CZcamsrs like Uncle Jessie or 3DPN uses, but the audio could be better. Also seemed out of sync, at least at the beginning. 2, you have a bent printer printing... Nothing? Keep it interesting. Yes, a slow long print would of been nice ongoing in the video even if it gave away the takes and editing sequences. 3, strength of parts: You show 2 flat pieces and how strong they are or are not with orientation changes and you show the slice for a belt printer but where is the video to see how strong the belt part is? 4, last I'd at least mention 90degree belts printers. I know it's not the powerbelt brand, but they do exist.
On the plus side, I liked how it was educational oriented, slower and concise with the information. Couldn't imagine a high energy delivery like with an uncle Jessie while I'm trying to learn something. Lol. Also, lots of goods info especially about initial overhangs on vases and such. Good background consistency, but maybe work on brand tagging that wall. Also, great job with the cutaway or b roll stuff.
I hope this helps!
Thanks! I still struggle with audio, especially on a budget. I look forward to upgrading some day. Thanks for the B-roll suggestions also.
cant get over the weird audio sync strangeness