Burning Wood Overnight - A Full Day of Operating a Wood Stove
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- Join me for a full day in the life of burning wood around the clock. You will see how much wood I burn, how many times I have to load the stove (hint, it's 4), and how I get a good overnight burn in my Pacific Energy Alderlea T6 Wood Stove.
Music Credits:
Parasail - Silent Partner
Stove top or flue thermometers are a good tool to fine tune your burn. You would probably have a longer more efficient burn of your turned the air down sooner like 15-30 min after reloading.
Good video, just wondering how you keep your glass so clean? Thanks.
Thanks! I cleaned the glass before I shot the video. I don't really have any great tips. I think a lot of it comes down to the stove design. Smoldering fires will make it black, so burning seasoned wood should help, as well as letting the fire rip for awhile after refilling the firebox to quickly get a good hot flame established.
Wood wall clearance too close to the stove ? Wood alone or "up from" SAY 65 F frtom a central furnace thermostat ? Species ?
If this stove is in a corner installation like i have here it can go like 5" or so away from the wall. Pacific Energy's website has a document showing the clearances.
We primarily just run the wood stove along with a propane fireplace in a very drafty room at the far end of the house. We only ran our furnace a few times this past winter.
I burn a mix of hardwoods. Maple, ash, birch, oak, black cherry. Not sure what i was burning in this video.
Hey, where do you put the air control at to heat your house, do you set it in the middle? And do you just put it on low when you want it to go over night ? How big is your house ? Is your house drafty?
We have a small 1900s farm house. Its a small footprint but has 3 stories above ground and tall ceilings and open staircases. I have been working at air sealing/insulating but it still has some very drafty sections that i need to fix.
During the day typically we run the stove with the damper all the way closed, if the house gets cool we tend to just open the damper full blast until it gets toasty, then dial it back to fullly closed. Also i find after restocking the fire it seems to help to leave the air wide open for a few minutes. At night we always run it fully closed so that there is a nice bed of coals in the morning.
So basically we mostly run wide open for brief stints and fully closed. On colder days you can put lots of logs in the firebox for more heat, on milder days you can go with less. Honestly, it's a very easy stove to operate and isnt picky with how you run it. What I described isn't the only way to do it, it's just the rut we fell into this mild winter. This was our first winter with this stove.
@@koreyfreemanofficial Okay sounds good. I think that’s what I am doing wrong. I’m not burning hot enough. But I know the book says. If anything is glowing red. That’s a sign of a overfired, and my stove never gets like that. I’m guessing you can burn it hot as long it doesn’t glow red. I had my stove for 2 years and I’m now getting used to it now. Thank you for getting back to me
@@itsyurb0ylayy4 what issue are you having? Not enough heat output? I noticed a huge difference in heat output moving from wood that was still pretty green to more seasoned wood. Seasoned wood burns so much hotter. Ideally season your wood for 12+ months.
Beyond having dry wood, try to get the fire nice and hot initially. FILL the firebox up, and leave the damper wide open and let it rip until your house reaches the temperature you want it. At that point you can throttle back the air, and I think you will find that the heat output is much better after you have that great bed of hot coals. Don't be shy with the amount of wood you load, and letting her get really hot before dialling it back. Stoves are made to get hot.
It seems to me that if you try to be stingy with the wood and air supply the efficiency of the stove drops off a cliff. Get it hot, then let it coast.
@@koreyfreemanofficial the issue what I was having was, that I was in a group with they was helping me, when and they was telling me. Wait till the flue temperature is 300, then turn it down, once the flue temperature is 350 turn it down again, and once again when it gets to 350 but this time only 25 percent, and once I started doing that, it will put out the heat, but it will raise the temperature of the house 1 degrees per hour. Mine you the stove is in the basement. But I watched your video 5 times, so I can take the details more properly. And I noticed you wasn’t getting a lot left. And you that’s one of the problems that I was having, I will have large coals . I will rake them to the front.. but I been doing what you did for two days and I see the difference already.. I don’t get a large Coal bed. And I also think I wasn’t letting the wood to burn its full y
Cycle. I think I was having this problem before, because I wasn’t getting the stove out enough I think I was scared that I will damage my stove, a lot of people on Facebook been saying keep the stove temperature 650. I noticed when I keep the air control in the middle of the that’s when it cranks out the heat but this is when the stove is in the 700-750. The dealer told me the stove can handle it but only for a hour tho, but when the stove is at those temperatures nothing is glowing red, but if anything is glowing I turn it down lil, till the red glowing goes away. But I noticed the book doesn’t have a overfired temperature. All it says is if anything is glowing red that’s a sign of a overfired. But I called pacific energy and they even told me the the stove can handle it just check your stove to see if there’s any damage every couple of months.