Hi, very informative but I have a question: my speedsensor works because if i put the magnet close to it then the red light of the sensor blinks , but the problem is that the speedometer doesn’t indicate a speed... any idea? I have no arduino to test the pulses from the sensor. Thank you
Sorry for the delay in response. Go into the menu and change the diameter of the wheel size to the lowest. Then put the magnet on something that rotates. I thing you will get a speed shown on the gauge.
Hi, thanks for the very complete video. I have a question to ask you, I have connected the device, but the sensor does not detect the magnet (the warning light does not come on). What could it be? Thank you.
If it’s on your bike, the sensor needs to be VERY close. I mean 2mm close. The part of the system is straight forward. if it is very close then remove the sensor and the magnet and reproduce the effect with a drill and the magnet.
@@Mytwistedvoices Ok, thank you so much. For the formula instead for the calculation of the frequency I have seen the equation, but how is it obtained? A thousand thanks.
@@simonedimennodibucchianico8065 there is a formula but it wasn’t accurate for me. I put it at 5.0, road it down the road comparing it to my phone using a GPS speedometer. Then made the adjustments. It was very accurate when I got the right value.
hi, please, do you have the same tachometer here, can you say the connection? we don't know if I turn on the neutral light, the light doesn't come on and how to turn on the speed, thank you
Hi, very Great Video, thanks! But one question. My motorcycle doesnt has an fuel sensor. So I put a bridge between the blue/ white wire at the 9pin connector and ground (Green) 0v Pin. But the fuel indicator doesnt stop blinking. Has you any idea what can I do?
In part 3 you will see what to do. I think I just ground the wire. It will give a full indication but it doesn’t blink. Easy. It’s been a while but I know it’s easy
I don't believe the setting will go low enough to accomidate 3 magnets. I put the only two that came with the kit on a small wheel. I had to drop the setting below 3.0. As for the math? I don't have the paper work anymore, but Three magnets is not reccomended.
Good job, great videos.! I have one tricky question, maybe You know the answer. Why the 'positive power supply' (I mean, +12V) is divided between two cables (red, black)? The green on is GND (- or 0V), the black one is positive (+ or 12V) that turns the gauge on (in the bike - this cable goes +12V when you turn the key to ON) but the third cable (red) is also positive (+ or +12V) that is always connected to the battery (always 12V, even when the bike key/engine is turned off). I don't like it, I feel one day it may drain the battery. I prefer to connect (short) black and red cables together (like You did in part I when testing the gauge) and connect it to the moto wire that goes +12V when I turn the key (I mean - no cable connected permanently to the battery). Did You try it? I am afraid it may erase the settings, but I don't know it (not installed the gauge yet). Maybe You know?
The red cable is for the battery monitor. Has nothing to do with powering the system. If you connect the red cable to the black wire, you will read regulated power. Your battery will eventually fail due to old age, and you will never know it. (low battery = signal on, charged battery = signal off). The battery monitor is a relay power and will not draw any power until the black (key on) power is energized. I have not experienced any battery drainage when the bike sits for a week or two. I hope this helps.
@@Mytwistedvoices I am not sure about the memory: look here - www.ex-500.com/threads/universal-digital-speedometer-the-ebay-special.45226/ "Red - Connect this directly to the positive terminal of your battery. This is the memory supply to the unit. If you disconnect this, then all the settings that you program (...) will be reset (ie. wheel circumference, odometer, etc)" May You check this by disconnecting the red cable for the night and connecting it next day? I have to make the wiring and this may change my plans (I don't want to cut already soldered cables). And it may help other people watching Your great video
@@mateuszwinkowski4876 There are a few versions of the same basic speedometer. Each version has small differences. Your speedo only has cylinders 2 and 4 (according to your article). Mine does 1,2 and 4. Another feature that is different is the fuel. The article states 100 ohm and 500 ohm selections. Mine has 100 ohm and 10k ohm . I have pulled the battery from the bike many times to use in another project bike I have been building. I have never lost any settings. This could be another feature mine has and your does not. If you watch the third move, I ran the odometer to match the original bike odometer, 11437 miles. This took a full day. Something I don't want to repeat. Do some testing on your own, my video shows you how to put miles on it using drill. Then disconnect all the power. Here is the link that show where I bought mine. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXWKGGX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@mateuszwinkowski4876 There are several versions of the universal speedometer, I have included in the detailed videos for you understand the unique qualities of your speedometer. This way you are not simply following an instruction sheet but can see the functionality of the unit. Good luck.
Best video I have seen for setup. I see you have 73.4 displayed on your frequency, but 1.86 as your frequency. Seems like that is meter to inch conversion. I have been able to get my speedometer to read 2-3 mph so guess frequency is wrong. I have 2 magnets on a drill and can test easily. But cannot seem to find setting that works. It is not clear what the frequency setting should be and how it works. I know you do not have the paperwork anymore, but maybe you remember what/how the setting works?
@@davealegado7210 Unhook that wire from the bike. If it gets stuck, you have a bad gauge. The tach needs a pulse, the bike will not produce a pulse that doesn't change.
Hi man could you pls help me to wire the fuel system? . I put the speedometer to my derbi senda everything is good except the fuel level. I got a fuel level sensor which has 2 wires. Green and blue. Itried to wire the green to ground and the blue to the speedometer " blue/white" cable. But when the tank was empty the speedometer showed full. When i filled up a little the speedometer showed empty. I tried to change the wires but the problem did not solve. Im reaaly dissappointed cause the sensore was expensive and i cant even use it. Do you have any advice for me ? i would really appreciate. Thaks man
@@Mytwistedvoices it's plugged on the speedometer, which is plugged on battery. The rpm, turn lights and other stuff works perfectly, but the sensor doesn't work properly, I tested passing the magnets in front of it, and the speed doesn't change. The sensor light is always on.
@@flamelacacio8150 sorry, I miss understood. Two wires provide power the other is for sensing. Open the connector and make sure there isn’t a bent pin. Check the sensor for plastic or covering.
Hello,I am from Greece and I have a kawasaki zr7 do you know why the rpm cutting in 6000
Hi, very informative but I have a question: my speedsensor works because if i put the magnet close to it then the red light of the sensor blinks , but the problem is that the speedometer doesn’t indicate a speed... any idea? I have no arduino to test the pulses from the sensor. Thank you
Sorry for the delay in response. Go into the menu and change the diameter of the wheel size to the lowest. Then put the magnet on something that rotates. I thing you will get a speed shown on the gauge.
I’ve been trying to install one on my 01 Honda shadow vt1100c and I’m having trouble with the tach. It’s reading very slow
Did you watch part 3? Did you put it where I put it?
Hi, thanks for the very complete video. I have a question to ask you, I have connected the device, but the sensor does not detect the magnet (the warning light does not come on). What could it be?
Thank you.
If it’s on your bike, the sensor needs to be VERY close. I mean 2mm close. The part of the system is straight forward. if it is very close then remove the sensor and the magnet and reproduce the effect with a drill and the magnet.
@@Mytwistedvoices Ok, thank you so much. For the formula instead for the calculation of the frequency I have seen the equation, but how is it obtained? A thousand thanks.
@@simonedimennodibucchianico8065 there is a formula but it wasn’t accurate for me. I put it at 5.0, road it down the road comparing it to my phone using a GPS speedometer. Then made the adjustments. It was very accurate when I got the right value.
@@Mytwistedvoices Ok, thank you!!
hi, please, do you have the same tachometer here, can you say the connection? we don't know if I turn on the neutral light, the light doesn't come on and how to turn on the speed, thank you
Did you watch part three? The connections are in there.
Hi, very Great Video, thanks! But one question. My motorcycle doesnt has an fuel sensor. So I put a bridge between the blue/ white wire at the 9pin connector and ground (Green) 0v Pin. But the fuel indicator doesnt stop blinking. Has you any idea what can I do?
In part 3 you will see what to do. I think I just ground the wire. It will give a full indication but it doesn’t blink. Easy. It’s been a while but I know it’s easy
@@Mytwistedvoices Hello if instead of magnets you install the other round sensor that goes on wheel ,what setting you must use in number 2
@@thetoymaker9404 the round object is the magnet that the kit came with. I posted this 4-5 years ago. I don’t remember.
Hi, in case there r 3 magnets, how is the frequency formula?
I don't believe the setting will go low enough to accomidate 3 magnets. I put the only two that came with the kit on a small wheel. I had to drop the setting below 3.0. As for the math? I don't have the paper work anymore, but Three magnets is not reccomended.
Good job, great videos.!
I have one tricky question, maybe You know the answer. Why the 'positive power supply' (I mean, +12V) is divided between two cables (red, black)? The green on is GND (- or 0V), the black one is positive (+ or 12V) that turns the gauge on (in the bike - this cable goes +12V when you turn the key to ON) but the third cable (red) is also positive (+ or +12V) that is always connected to the battery (always 12V, even when the bike key/engine is turned off). I don't like it, I feel one day it may drain the battery. I prefer to connect (short) black and red cables together (like You did in part I when testing the gauge) and connect it to the moto wire that goes +12V when I turn the key (I mean - no cable connected permanently to the battery). Did You try it? I am afraid it may erase the settings, but I don't know it (not installed the gauge yet). Maybe You know?
The red cable is for the battery monitor. Has nothing to do with powering the system. If you connect the red cable to the black wire, you will read regulated power. Your battery will eventually fail due to old age, and you will never know it. (low battery = signal on, charged battery = signal off). The battery monitor is a relay power and will not draw any power until the black (key on) power is energized. I have not experienced any battery drainage when the bike sits for a week or two. I hope this helps.
@@Mytwistedvoices I am not sure about the memory: look here - www.ex-500.com/threads/universal-digital-speedometer-the-ebay-special.45226/
"Red - Connect this directly to the positive terminal of your battery. This is the memory supply to the unit. If you disconnect this, then all the settings that you program (...) will be reset (ie. wheel circumference, odometer, etc)"
May You check this by disconnecting the red cable for the night and connecting it next day? I have to make the wiring and this may change my plans (I don't want to cut already soldered cables).
And it may help other people watching Your great video
@@mateuszwinkowski4876 There are a few versions of the same basic speedometer. Each version has small differences. Your speedo only has cylinders 2 and 4 (according to your article). Mine does 1,2 and 4. Another feature that is different is the fuel. The article states 100 ohm and 500 ohm selections. Mine has 100 ohm and 10k ohm . I have pulled the battery from the bike many times to use in another project bike I have been building. I have never lost any settings. This could be another feature mine has and your does not.
If you watch the third move, I ran the odometer to match the original bike odometer, 11437 miles. This took a full day. Something I don't want to repeat. Do some testing on your own, my video shows you how to put miles on it using drill. Then disconnect all the power. Here is the link that show where I bought mine.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXWKGGX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@mateuszwinkowski4876 There are several versions of the universal speedometer, I have included in the detailed videos for you understand the unique qualities of your speedometer. This way you are not simply following an instruction sheet but can see the functionality of the unit. Good luck.
Hello. My engine broke down at 51k km, now I bought it from this indicator and is it possible to set this indicator to 51k km?
Watch part 3. I use an ardunio to be a pulse generator to run the speed up. The speed runs up the mileage. An arduino is $10.
Can you tell me What are the colors of te sensor conector?
BOXSALAMANCA TEAM blue and white a si remember
hi..my motorcycle has three wire for the fuel float..so how do i connect all three?
with sensor number 2 what is the setting of the magnets?do you know my friend?
Best video I have seen for setup. I see you have 73.4 displayed on your frequency, but 1.86 as your frequency. Seems like that is meter to inch conversion. I have been able to get my speedometer to read 2-3 mph so guess frequency is wrong. I have 2 magnets on a drill and can test easily. But cannot seem to find setting that works. It is not clear what the frequency setting should be and how it works. I know you do not have the paperwork anymore, but maybe you remember what/how the setting works?
I don't have the sheet anymore explaining the math. Watch the end of part 3. I just ended up picking 2.7 and made adjustments from there.
The Rigth frecuency calc is in inches. 1000/circunference/60.
Hey man, I'm running with a single cylinder what code code should i put on it? Thanks
Did you watch part three? If I remember correctly, set it to Y1.
Why when i turn of the ignition key the hand of the tachometer will stuck on the certain rpm it is not returning to zero?
@@davealegado7210 Unhook that wire from the bike. If it gets stuck, you have a bad gauge. The tach needs a pulse, the bike will not produce a pulse that doesn't change.
Im having trouble calculating the frequency number
Hello,,, where do I connect the rotation rate?
Did you watch part 1 and part 3?
How to stop my fuel gause flashing?
Did you ground the wire? I think I did that in part 3. It’s been a few years. Maybe part 3 will answer your question
Hi man could you pls help me to wire the fuel system? . I put the speedometer to my derbi senda everything is good except the fuel level. I got a fuel level sensor which has 2 wires. Green and blue. Itried to wire the green to ground and the blue to the speedometer " blue/white" cable. But when the tank was empty the speedometer showed full. When i filled up a little the speedometer showed empty. I tried to change the wires but the problem did not solve. Im reaaly dissappointed cause the sensore was expensive and i cant even use it. Do you have any advice for me ? i would really appreciate. Thaks man
There was another video on CZcams of a guy that had that same issue, and he just bent to float arm the opposite direction, to reverse.
I am sorry, I don't have experience in using the fuel guage.
Gabriele Müller english pls
Brian Adair could you link the video?
Gabriele Müller ohh i see. And the sensor must be at the lowest point of the tank ?
my sensor is lighten up all the time, do you know what can it be?
Is it plugged into the battery?
@@Mytwistedvoices it's plugged on the speedometer, which is plugged on battery. The rpm, turn lights and other stuff works perfectly, but the sensor doesn't work properly, I tested passing the magnets in front of it, and the speed doesn't change. The sensor light is always on.
@@flamelacacio8150 sorry, I miss understood. Two wires provide power the other is for sensing. Open the connector and make sure there isn’t a bent pin. Check the sensor for plastic or covering.
Is it still working, no problems?
Yes, no problems. The bike is in storage this winter but we put several hundred miles with the modification
I am upgrading the headlight to an LED this spring, You will see it again!
Are you the manufacturer??? Wow you are awesome!! Be my master please
I am not the manufacturer. I work on aircraft electrical systems. Like Superman, I work alone, LOL
@@Mytwistedvoices oh....thats why...I am installing the speedo now. Your clips help me a lot. Thank you from Sydney
@@jesushairstyle Thank You! That means a lot!
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Not really helpful but nice try
Oh well !! I had fun doing it.