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1980 MGB | Valve Adjustment

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  • čas přidán 29. 10. 2017
  • Regular maintenance for your classic car involves making sure the valves are adjusted properly. This process is made to seem very difficult and this video shows that it really is simple maintenance when you look at the process and what is involved. We follow Larry Hughes through the setup and adjustment on the valve train on a common 4 cylinder engine. Please enjoy and share with your friends.
    Executive Producer : Dave Grainger
    Executive Producer : Janice Stone
    Director : Christopher Rowana
    Producer : Thomas Douglas
    DOP : Stephen Hawkins
    Sound Recordist : Timothy Harrison
    Story Editor : Christopher Rowana
    Fine Editor : Timothy Harrison
    Intro/Outro Music : Daniel Willette
    The Guild’s Classics is not endorsed or affiliated with the documentary series titled Restoration Garage or its affiliates.

Komentáře • 14

  • @Gammaduster
    @Gammaduster Před 6 lety +4

    Really high quality content and good tips to pick up! Thanks

    • @guildsgarage
      @guildsgarage  Před 6 lety +2

      Thank you for watching. We want to continue to bring more great content, please share with your friends to help the series grow.

  • @Rob-fx2dw
    @Rob-fx2dw Před 4 lety

    Good video. I used to do this on my MG - I did valve no. 1 with no. 8 full open and did all other valves where the sum of the open valve added up to 9. e,g. check no 3. with number 6 fully down. Check no. 4 with no. 5 fully down. As long as they add up to 9 you can't go wrong.

  • @tropicalhunch2802
    @tropicalhunch2802 Před 6 lety +4

    Quick note: The manufacturer's suggested .013" is for a hot engine. For a cold engine, it should be .015". This is a great video, BTW.

    • @TakeDeadAim
      @TakeDeadAim Před 4 lety

      Makes no difference and you're better off setting them a little tight at .011/.012. SO many people get worked up about the spec when in reality there is a LOT of "wiggle" room(literally). IF it were a critical spec it would be required to be set with a dial gauge...a lot of variation between feelers and how people "feel". Also, the ONLY reason there's a "hot and cold" spec was so techs wouldn't need to let an engine cool down. Oh...and the gap doesn't increase .002" but the oil changes the feel. I've been building all sorts of engines for two decades...set these things so they don't rattle like an old Singer sewing machine. Also...with hardened valve seats and new SS valves you're NOT burning out valve faces and seats even if they're a little tight. I own a 73 "B" and know these cars VERY well...

    • @trevorwiesner7527
      @trevorwiesner7527 Před 2 lety

      @@TakeDeadAimI have a '77 that I'm rebuilding. Do you think I should set it at .013 cold?

    • @redbarchetta8782
      @redbarchetta8782 Před měsícem

      Go with the cams manufacture specs if not stock. My fast road is .016 hot. It can and will wipe a cam being too tight for the specs.

  • @BallsonPHACE
    @BallsonPHACE Před 6 lety +1

    adjusted a 1957 Morris Minor valves with the same OHV train

    • @guildsgarage
      @guildsgarage  Před 6 lety

      Right on! Maintenance can be both the most fun and most rewarding part of owning a classic or antique car.

  • @briannamurray3414
    @briannamurray3414 Před 5 lety +1

    I know Larry he is my friends grandpa lol

  • @dm7097
    @dm7097 Před 4 lety

    Viewing as a lay person, I would have thought cylinder 3 was a little too tight?

  • @12121149
    @12121149 Před 5 lety +1

    Never heard of adjusting the valves with the motor running?????? Did it that way for 50 years.

    • @TakeDeadAim
      @TakeDeadAim Před 4 lety

      Different strokes. Makes no difference to the engine. Also, obviously hydro's ARE set running much more often than flat tappet. But you knew that right?????????

  • @johna1160
    @johna1160 Před 6 lety +4

    8:48 Literally listened to engine run for two seconds. Laughable