Ultra-basics: Wiring a basic FPV system
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- In this "ultra basics" video I show (on the whiteboard) the very simple basics of how to wire a video transmitter and camera together in an FPV system. Stay tuned and part 5 of the miniquad build video will show you the practical steps to do what has been shown in theory on the board.
As a novice just in the research phase before building his first quad, your videos are a godsend. Really informative and helps take some of the worry out of a process that looks incredibly daunting to the beginner.
Great video Bruce! It is so easy a child can do it... I'm 15 and I did it yesterday! :D
( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
ʕ º ᴥ ºʔ
I'm going to do this for my boeing 777 I'm also 15, lol
Sorry Bruce, but I have a serious bone to pick with you! Since watching your "budget" mini-quad build I've spent over $1200 on parts to build one/several (I needed everything even transmitter and tools). You have seriously motivated me to not just watch all these videos of FPV insanity but to get my lazy, middle-aged ass into it. I've not been this excited, since being a child with a batman blow up bridge toy, waiting for my parts to trickle in. The next challenge is how to hide the expenditure from the finance minister (wife) but I have my ways.
Seriously. Thanks. Your videos are amazingly motivating and the retail people should be paying you a fortune to show there stuff.... oh, where did I put my Credi Card?
MashO Matic LOL! totally get you, way past the $1200 so i stopped counting how much i spend. As for the credit card, go grocery shopping and check out each item individually. This will create a bill so long wife will be lazy to read.
simonTemplar
G'day,
You may be intrrested in a brainfart I had regarding R/C Models...; they almost all cost more per actual hour of Airtime than whatever actual Aircraft they're representing, and to even approach that then the Model needs to fly for at least one hour.
Eg, my son paid $250 for an Electric Pitts Special "Python", and if it flies for an hour then it's not far off the hourly cost of flying a real Pitts...; because it flew a 3-second Loop due to a frozen Elevator Servo, then unless it gets repaired and put back into the Sky to change the equation, it flew at a cost of $300,000 per Hour - and that's getting into Space-Shuttle like decadence...
This is why I still fly an almost 14 year-old CC Lee Falcon, it ticked over 28 hours aloft yesterday, so it's now worked it's Cost down to only $8.57 per hour..., including materials used in repairs (it's carrying 3 Ounces of Epoxy & Woven Fibreglass Cloth & clear Tape, 20% overload on the original T/O Weight of a Pound.).
How many Hours does a Quad fly for, before it's not worth persisting with ?
I'm waiting for a pack of 8 sets of new Prop's to arrive, before I even begin to try to learn to fly the Hubsan X-4...
;-p
Ciao !
WarblesOnALot I was thinking about that. If I had started again knowing what I know now what would be the two RC aircraft and RC equipment I would buy and keep and then buy no more. I'm constantly trying different foamy FPV planes and havn't yet found one I really like. Mind you I try and keep the costs down to a degree although I tend to use higher end FPV electrics such as ImmersionRC gear since its reliable.
stewjw
G'day,
Thanks,
Yeah, I tend to operate off at the other end of the market, and the Cheapies are often so severely "Production-Engineered" to keep costs down that the sometimes fairly radical Aerodynamic Loopholes the Designer was intending them to fly through can be really small ; so it's a case of thinking really hard about how it looks as if it'll behave, prior to putting it up where it can crash, because a lot have only got one prang in them.
An outlier is a $50 thing called a Sky Hero, only 11.5 inches in length and span (so as to fit in a 1-foot box ?), with a Ducted Fan on each Wingtip, 2 Channels and incredibly twitchy in Roll...; but it does have digital proportional Double Throttles, with L/R Trim, so it can Maintain Level Flight, Climb, or Glide under Power while retaining Asymetric Thrust for directional control... (power-off it simply glides as trimmed, but it requires some Throttle or there's no "Turning").
But it's made from some "leathery" kind of Foam, incredibly tough, I've spent a day shooting one out of a Treetop with a Rubber Catapault and 1-Ounce Rocks and though it lost 1 Square Inch of Trailing-Edge at a Wingroot it still glided almost straight - though it had been hit so hard on the Radio Reciever the Wax was shaken out of the RX Antenna Coil... And it literally cannot fly fast enough, to be able to crash hard enough, to damage the Airframe.
A pity it needs Dead Calm to fly well, I actually got a second one to replace the one I shot the Radio out of...
So, to me, the Hubsan X-4 is a throbbing challenge...; if I muff it then $250 can fly away and disappear from sight in the Regrowth Forest I live in.., or go up and then descend too fast and succumb to Rotor-Decay, and arrive like a white Stone..., amidst the Bassalt Rocks sticking up in the neighbouring Sheep-Paddock.
Sadly, the first flight is always the riskiest, like the Pitts Python at $300,000 per Hour for 3 seconds.
I suspect that for $10 more, they could've built the Pitts out of the same Leathery Foam the Sky-Hero is moulded from, and it would've pretty much bounced off the ground undamaged, instead of shattering at every Stress-point.
Still, if it gets too scary, I can always have a few hours of fun with a well-folded sheet of A-4 Paper.... (check my "Aeromodelling For Children" Playlist, for the "World's Best Paper Aeroplane..." video, it has self-adjusting Variable Geometry, changing it's own Span and Area according to Airspeed, devilish cunning actually !)..., probably the most Cost-Effective Flying Model of all...?!?
Have a good one,
;-p
Ciao !
+MashO Matic .......... Oh.... I hear you brother..... in UK the finance minister (missus) is glad that I have a new hobby, but unaware (as of yet) about the costs..... I shall blame it all on Bruce too.
BEST video I've EVER seen for beginners like me. Absolutely brilliant mate!
I really appreciate your continued support of the hobby. I, for one, find your information tremendously valuable!
I love the whiteboard videos! My son and I (mostly me!) are following along with the budget miniquad build, and are learning a lot, thank you so much Bruce. As far as funding yourself, I'd rather see your channel keep the same open format, but perhaps supplemented with some sort of subscription for those of us who can afford it (Patreon?).
Excellent video that still stands on its own 5 years later. Cheers mate!
Who's still here in 2021? Gotta love Bruce's white board classics!!
Pleasent voice, noiseless (( no music :) ) presentation ( +10 ).Ty for all your knowledge sharing.
May not be rocket science to you, but for a total noob like me, it was just what i needed.
Love FPV so much that even though I've done this countless times in many configurations, I still watched and enjoyed it!!
eric deherrera Me too!
eric deherrera me three .. LOL
Me four :D
eric deherrera As did i lol. I am wiring my Minim and naze whilst watching lol
73, de M6EXH
FlyerDan Put a switch between the RX+TX wires from the naze otherwise you will have troubles when you try and hookup a USB to the naze, because they share the same wires. WIthout the switch, both will try and talk on the rx/tx lines and the usb wont work.
Great video. People like you make it a lot easier for the rest of us to learn. Top job...
This type of video is very helpful. I'm a little dyslexic and find it hard to follow diagram an book stuff so this is a very good video foe me. Thanks Bruce.
Hi Bruce, just starting in rc , and have found your video's not only a great help but a lot of fun. Keep up the the good work. Thanks a lot.
Thank you for making this video, now I can get fpv up an running on a new build. It’s my first, thanks again
Great video Bruce, basic instruction videos are great for beginners. Liked and looking forward to more.
Always a pleasure to watch your videos Bruce, I have just orders the parts to begin my first FPV maiden flight.
Cheers
"There are evil children in here and if they don't have an antenna they'll wreck it -- they'll break the crockery and smash the windows!"
Best line ever xD
Great vid! Some times all I need is simply simple! Keep them coming.
AWESOME info for the beginner! maybe have links in the description to your other videos that way people can go watch more great videos!
What about the receiver end?
Some cameras have 4 wires Bruce. The white is audio in for the vtx. Most people ground it to the black. What are your thoughts?
Random comment..... I use Traxxas connectors... They simply work and don't stuff up.
(if somehow u broke it)
Because the terminals come out of the housing they are very easy to solder in the field and they don't require any heatshrink...
Maintenance wise they are years ahead... With a small screwdriver u can push the terminals out of the housing so they can be cleaned. This can easily be done on both male and female connectors.
The housing is easy to grip to disconnect the battery, no more pulling on wires
Current handling.... They can handle massive amounts of current draw as seen in the surface vehicles, I'm talking current draw a mini quad could only dream of... Things like a VXL stampede or a x01....
Bruce, u should try a Traxxas connector... Once u go black u won't go back (to red or yellow)
Thanks Bruce. Very clear and easy explanation.
Cheers mate,
John
Walter White teaches FPV :)
Another awesome video!
Thanks for the video. Alot of this is so confusing when you are a noob. Wish i had some nice videos like this when i was starting out. I think another very confusing thing for me was how to wire in the cheapo osd's. Some of them just "tap" the video wire and some actually sit in between the camera and the vtx. drove me crazy at first.
Many people want to select the video from their HD cam and flight cam which means using a switch. I've had good luck with the Turnigy switch, but others say some are better. Reviewing and comparing different switches would be great, and clearly explaining the wiring. That escapes some people, especially when voltages differ with some gear.
Thanks Bruce! This vid came at the exact right time for me!
I'm starting now in this world.. and I might say... This is an incredible video... well explained as the low budget FPV drone... it's a pity that here in europe is very expensive and we are having so much trouble with products imported from china... I've just one question... in which frequency does this VTX works. .. is it 5.8 or 1.4 ghz?
I know motors can make a lot of electrical noise. Back when we still used the old CRT TVs they would get static if someone in the kitchen turned a blender on or something. I am glad those days are over.
wow, you just cleared up any and every confusion I had with this! The video was great and your drawings were wayyyyy better than I could do :)
love these types of tutorials, thank you sir.
Thank you Bruce. Even my wife understands this! (ah oh; DID I SAY THAT OR JUST THINK IT )
Keep up the good work! Love it!
Very nice draw mr Bruce. Keep up god job.
Just to be totally explicit. DO NOT connect a Fatshark or any 5V maximum camera to the 12V or "bad things will happen". There are cameras out there that will take more than 12V and still work all the way down to 5V making them very versatile. Remember to keep any documentation for any components you buy and match them to the specific components so if you later reuse a particular component you will have a useful reference when reconnecting it into another model with perhaps higher voltages like 4S or more.
Another neat feature appearing on some brands of VTX is a jumper to select 5V or Battery voltage out. These jumpers are not generally well documented so proceed with caution.
Even the most basic multimeter is almost essential for this kind of work. Plenty of videos here on the tube showing how to use a multimeter. For $20 or more you will have a tool with a multitude of uses in RC. Just don't connect a real cheapy to the mains.
Rob B And if the camera work on 5V and the VTX voltage out put is the voltage of the 3S battery ? How to reduce the voltage to 5V ?
***** From my experience most VTX's have a 5V out. But some also include an option to pass the battery voltage direct. If you are getting 12V out look for a 3 pin jumper on the VTX and move the bridge to the other side and you should now have 5V out. Just be sure to check before connecting the camera. If all else fails you may be able to get 5V from the BEC built into most ESC's or add a separate 5V ubec.
Rob B Thank you Rob !
Thanks a lot for explaining, sir!
Thank you Bruce made it so easy to understand
I know this is late in the day, but how about an audio feed if there is a mic in the camera? Thanks for all the great stuff. Particularly like the whiteboard bits.
Great video! Please, more white board videos!! Best!
Because of the popularity and the generally-compact size of the gear, decent 5.8Ghz gear isn't spendy. I got a $42 200mW Boscam set and a $8 cloverleaf set and the link is solid. I got them off ebay and not to say that there won't be lemons on there, but it at least goes to show they can be found at a good price
BashMonkeyRC i agree thats why its a good idea at that price to buy a few extra setups.. i always try to by 2 Tx's and 2 600 tv line cams at a time.
I have a couple mini cameras coming from HK, only 520TVL but wide angle and good with low light so I'm gonna set those up on a tilt setup through the naze
don't forget the link to the sony 600tvl camera, bruce. please..
thanks for another great video.
Great video Bruce this will really help people new to the hobby.
ATB Malc
Team Nana UK Division
RCTV-UK Hehe... I had to look up ATB.
ATB Mate... :-)
Thank you I have been going crazy on how I was going to wire this.
Thank you so much for this video. I’m wanting to try basic video and fpv with the runcam 2 flatform camera recently purchased. It all seems confusing but I guess its all being tailored for open platform where one can pick and choose their on preference on components.
First! Greetings from the Netherlands. Keep them coming!
Hi, I'm just getting started into fpv, not typically race drones or rc controlled stuff, but just fpv itself. I feel like I need to buy a basic setup in order to understand what it does, and then attach it to an rc car and drive it around the house. ETC
Awesome. Got everything I needed from the video. The solder iron is heating up as we speak......
Well...that's hot.
Brilliant video as always.
@5.35 I think I heard a charger go off... Always Ready is our Bruce.. lol
A slightly off topic question, but what camera do you use to film your videos for your channel? Thanks in advance!
Great work Brucey, used this in my blog
I'm having a problem with fpv setup. Is it possible that a bad solder joint with the yellow wire will cause the video to drop out completely? I do receive audio, but that is coming from a microphone on my vtx.
Thanks for this explanation, easy to understand!
Really helpful thanks for sharing.
Great video,as always!
Don't know what I would have done in the beginning with out you haha...
Great video. Thanks.
Quick questions.
My fpv cam has no mic (and the other one I have had a crap mic)
My VTX has a green wire for a mic input.
I have tried two different mics wired to the black and green wires but get no audio on the headphones on my fatsharks.
Every video I've seen shows how to wire up the built in microphone in the fpv cam but how do I wire in a sepereate mic?
Thanks
Andy
Bruce, My transmitter supports Audio, my camera doesn't have a microphone. I want to add a microphone to the transmitter. I'm not sure how to go about it. I see mics on Banggood, etc, how do they need to be wired into the transmitter? small barrel microphones with 2 wires coming from them do they need to be powered separately, resistors added or simply connect to the 2 wires from the transmitter?
Apropros the filter, does twisting the positive and negative wires together not have a similar effect in rejecting common mode noise?
Some people still use deans connectors? LOL dem's fightin' words!!! Like I am stuck in the stone ages..bwahaha.. (maybe I am) I am just teasing. Thanks for the breakdown for the new fpv prospects. Love this channel... and Deans plugs ;)
***** hah.. I agree,.. I love deans plugs,... I hear people putting them down constantly, saying they come apart. I've never had an issue, and if you retighten them every few times they will last forever. so much better than plugs that are so hard to connect/ disconnect, that when you want to disconnect quickly you often over pull and cause stress on the batt and model wiring. I like that I can connect/ disconnect with one hand, especially when I'm doing ESC calibrating on the KK board. Deans all the way..!!
Is the noise dependent on the signal strengt? What I mean is will it be more critial with a power filter if you're flying further away?
hey i have a run cam swift the yellow video wire that plugs into the vtx came out of the connector the white one. it looks like theres a piece of the eire stuck in the hole . do i replace the whole connector or can i depin it still?
excellent, its really hard to find some good content these days!
Bruce I hope you can do a video in setting up a Minim osd.
Thanks! Nice explanation. Can you please help me with this? If I'm powering both a 'camera' and a 'video transmitter' with electricity using the same 5V battery (let's say), should I calculate the current and voltage consumption of both devices to ensure they are appropriate for the specific battery? I'm a beginner :) Thanks in advance!
I think most modern VTX cameras take positive from the VTX , not directly from the battery , is that due to a smaller voltage requirement of modern cams ?
Off topic of this video but I'm needing some advice. Here's my scenerio... 4200xl excavator has 4 esc's. 1 for the hydraulic pump 2 for the tracks 1 for the turret. I just replaced the track and turret esc's with hobbywing wp1060s. All 4 are fed from 1 battery. So the question I have is about feeding power to the rx. Each esc has a bec. I can not find a definate one way or the other of whether i should remove the red wire on 3 of the esc's or not. Rx is a FS-IA10B. Please advise and maybe explain why. Thank you in advance
........"Always put your antenna on, there are evil children in here. They will break your crockery and smash your windows."------- Love it!!!!!!
I love watching your videos keep up the good work....
I have been using fatshark fpv equipment for a long time now and wanting to switch camera and vtx (immersionRC). I noticed the pzo420 runs on 12v.
So my question is... running a 3s lipo will have no issues, but if I ise a 4s lipo, will I need a 12v regulator for my fpv? And if so, any recommendations for a fpv racer?
I need help wiring a Discovery buzzer to my Qav250. My setup is the X8R Fr sky and X9D taranis- plus tx. The instructions for the buzzer are quite vague. It says plug into an open channel (e.g. Gear) on the receiver, toggle a switch and it should beep. I can't seem to program my tx for this function. Please help.
you may be old but you are a bad ass Engineer . thanks Bruce now I subscribe !
I have a question? what's the point of the yellow wire, like I've seen fpv cameras without the yellow wire and so if I have only 2 solder points: a positive and a negative do I need the yellow wire and if so where would it go. Thanks in advance and great video!
Usually if the camera unit has only two wires (assumed positive and ground), it contains its own transmitter, no separate one needed. The yellow is usually the video signal going to the separate video transmitter.
@@55yxalaG oh now I get it thanks for helping the new guy out!
@@mr.animegod_yt No problem!
Bruce, I've unable to find the answer to this question on any of the forums, I hope you can help. Can you plug all of the ESC switch mode BEC's into the Naze32? I now it is not recommended on the KK2.
How about a continuation video working with the goggles and head tracking for this setup?
Hey Bruce, How careful do you have to be about running your video wires close to the ESC?
how about adding an external microphone...would that be the mic's red lead to the Vtx audio lead and black to ground?
I have not been able to build any fpv setup without power filtering, what is it about this setup that causes you to not need it?
AndyRC sometime the filter is built into the vtx. i agree, i have not had one of those, and i end up adding an LC filter every time.
I have Runcam Swift 2 and AKK X1 VTX but getting confused how to connect them with battery/together as the connectors are very different on both of these as well as is it ok to connect VID/GND of runcam to X1 VID/GND or the Runcam GND can be put into X1 power GND, please help me with this.
I recently ordered ts5823 from banggood and hk, both died in 5min (power regulators on the board, since they worked with 2S still) got replacements and again, both same story, 5min and than 2S only. All 4 were 1.2rev... I ordered new boscam 350mw instead now, waiting if that thing is any better. Did you get good one Bruce?
I have a camera for an larger drone that I recently broke. I am trying to connect it to a mini drone to fly fpv. The battery and circuit board are too heavy for the small drone to carry. How do I connect only the camera to the small drones circuit board?
Bruce would u recommend using a step up voltage reg to get from the 5v to 12v needed by the camera ? What are the draw back of that approach.
bladesgc You can use a 5v step up to 12v. If your Video Transmitter has a 5v output and your camera can operate only on 12v.The best FPV setup I can recommend that you won't need to buy anything else is this.
www.banggood.com/FPV-5_8G-200mW-AV-Wireless-Transmitter-TS351-p-73198.html
www.banggood.com/FPV-5_8G-8CH-200mW-AV-Wireless-Receiver-RC305-p-73203.html
www.banggood.com/DAL-700TVL-FPV-HD-14-COMS-Camera-Module-Wide-Angle-p-957174.html
I've got a little cheap propel cloud rider drone with a labeled fpv and wifi port on the bottom and have wondered if they're functional...I tried the fpv port with my FT951 with no response which I kinda expected since battery input is a 3.7 and minimum opr on the 951 is 6v and I highly doubt the distribution board has a step up any experience with the propel models?
Great content - I have a query from my diatone sp2 the vtx is on and the camera is black - the camera works ok on my other setup?? But not with this vtx? The power is 4s. Any thoughts?
Hi.Really enjoyed this video.I bought a 7"screen with built in receiver on 5.8 and an ilook walkera camera with built in tranni. Although they are on the same frequency choices according to their manuals I cannot get them to talk to each other. I can just about get a picture from a foot away but the frequencies dont then match. Any ideas please.Thanks Chris
Hi sir. I wonder if you can help. I have a EACHINE FPV board camera on the back of this camera is a switch that can be switched up for P or down for N then a 3-pin socket I don’t have the plug with the wire this 3-pin socket would you know witch colour wire goes to each pin I know it’s a long shot just thought are ask. Thanks
What are differences between the 600, 700, and 800 line resolutions, Pro's and Con's of course???
What do they cost??? What is 360???
What build do you recommend for each of them and do you have a link to buy them???
Please, keep making videos...
There's not actually a whole lot of difference between 600, 700 and 800 line resolutions. The limiting factor is usually the video transmitter/receiver and/or your video goggles. More important than resolution is "dynamic range" -- ie: light handling. Many of the higher-resolution cameras fall down badly here. Right now the best light-handling FPV camera on the market is the Runcam Eagle (there's a review on this channel).
hey bruce, what causes my fpv gear to only work out to about 50 ft? bad transmitter? im using a 2.4g for flying, and a 5.8g 200mw for fpv, so that shouldnt cause any issues. possibly bad qc from banggood products?
is there a way to connect the camera to a rwd (RECORD) instead of or in addition to the transmitter?
What about grounding the audio? for latency reasons I've read some where haven't been able to do it maybe a video of how and why?
it would have been great if you had continued on how to connect it to a monitor to complete this very good video?
You should probably point out that the white wire on the VTX is for audio input, and is not required; it should probably be cut off, or the pin removed completely from the housing.
James Brown I always see the wire and keep thinking to install a microphone to hear the quad. This can give you early signs of issues, for example i got 1 prop barely hitting the video antenna at some point.
Is there a way to switch video Power while flying in other words when you're on the ground 10 MW. With a aux switch go to 600 MW in the air
Thank you Bruce.
Would you add connectors anywhere in the wiring to make it possible to remove the FPV system? If so, what connectors would you use and where would you add them?
Hey so I have four wires coming out of my camera.. red white yellow and green? I can't figure out what they do.. in getting no image on my goggles. Just black screen
I've got all the FPV bits but I still have no idea what to connect and where! No idea what voltage the camera or vtx is, I also have what I think is a fatshark filter that accepts 2, 3, or 4s input. I've no clue when it comes to electricity. I had assumed I'd solder a wire onto the PDB on the qav250
So, what do you do next? Is there an sd card in the camera? Or the other video thing? Or do you use some kind of computer screen to watch? Or I’ve seen people use goggles. Confused?
Hi Bruce - you recommend the 200MW transmitter for budget reasons but a lot of people who use FPV get the 600MW - my limited understanding is 600 MW gives you greater range - is 600 overkill or does 200 or 250MW (whatever the transmitter is) provide enough for the range of the quad? I want to buy budget but have ability to expand down the road. Also, I think in your video you said you would list parts in the decription - did you do it for this video or are you adding to the description for the first video?
***** I would say that 600 Megawatts is a bit overkill, 200 MW is probably enough to get you half way across the galaxy and already then you'll have to deal with some serious delay issues!
Hi I'm kind a new to the hobby, but I do know a bit about electronics, question, in the transmitter and receiver what about test the leads there, from what I understand there should be no connection with the ground lead and the signal RIGHT? then in my case is it possible that the transmitter came bad from factory? since I tested the continuity on them and they seem to have connect it them, due they have continuity and I just don't know for sure if that is how it suppose to be, could you please help me I have not found a right answer, Also tested the continuity on the antennas but as expected there should be no connection or should be? due there I bought another antenna and that one has so got me more confused.
In one of the transmitters there was a big ball of thin in the antenna so I deduced to remove and check, when removed the thin and check with the multimeter the continuity from the antenna signal to the ground and there was connection, to m understanding that should not be... or is that correct?
sorry its too much but I had the feeling the more I try to explain the more confuse I got whether there should be connection or not.
Thank you so much in advance for your time. Sincerely Luigui