I'm using this exact switch, and connecting to the correct pins, but the LED lights for just a moment when powering on, then shuts off. I researched and found that if you experience this with the Pi 3, then it is because the UART behavior was changed for the model 3 Pi. To fix it, I found you have to go into /boot/config.txt (use sudo nano /boot/config.txt) and add the line enable_uart=1 This fixes the behavior of the LED power light on the model 3, however I did notice that once the light goes out, you should wait a few moments before disconnecting power (the green activity light still flashes for a few moments after the LED light goes out). Not sure if this has been covered in prior comments or not, but strangely a google search turned up nothing on this topic. I guess most people aren't bothering with LED power indicators on RetroPie these days.
Sean's Retroverse thanks Sean, this helped me out immensely, was having the same issue... At first I thought I burnt the led out right away... I was like "wtf"... Then double checked it was a 12v led again... Then i shut it down, rebooted again... Saw led was still working momentarily again... Thanks for your helpful hint!
THANK YOU!!!!! Works now! I am using the Borkin Button and this wiring method RP3 and your edits to config.txt work perfect. Thanks Again!! You da best!
@Shareel Chand Since they tried to keep some degree of backward compatibility with the pi 4, my guess is "probably so". That being said, I personally have not played with a pi 4 to know for sure. The GPIO for the Pi 4 is supposed to be identical, and making a simple config file change should not break anything if it does not work, so try it and see! :)
I'd say your biggest problem with the soldering is that you let the tip of your soldering iron oxidize. You need to make sure that you always put some solder on the tip before you let it cool down. The tip should stay shiny from solder. That and you need to use flux.
The problem is the tip won't get hot enough it's a 30watt harbor fright iron I think I payed $2.99. My weller station died on me a few months back so I got this to hold me over.
Robert is right, just to further help, that iron you have, though cheap, it far more heat than you need to work but it can still work right if you just do a few simple things: 1. Use flux core solder (you probably are using as most has it), additional flux paste on the wire and landing helps too but not entirely necessary. 2. Take that tip when cool and use a greenie pad and take it down to bare metal (clean it with 91+ ISO or contact cleaner). 3. When you solder it vital you produce a heat-bridge first before introducing new solder to the joint/landing. To do this tin the tip of the iron first, make sure it looks wet and not "globuous" (Robert said this before). Then make sure your component is clean (use contact cleaner or 92+ ISO). 4. Place the tinned tip onto your landing for about 2 seconds and let that heat-bridge x-fer heat to the component/landing/joint, then just add a bit of fresh solder and it should flow better for you. 5. Take a paper towel and cut it so it's about 3.5" wide and the other dimension is the longest side, then roll it like a joint really tight until you have what looks like a HUGE fatty or tampon. Take narrow masking tape and take each end tight about 1/4" from the ends. Use this as a tip cleaner...when you are done with a few solder joints, rub briskly the end of your tip with this paper towel joint, then quickly re-tin the tip, EVEN IF YOU DON'T PLAN TO SOLDER RIGHT AWAY. Then say you need to solder again in a few mins, again clean the tip and apply fresh solder. Also when you are done with your last solder job, tin the tip generously and put it away like that. This will keep your tip nice and shinny as it should for its working life. You will run into open ckts in the future with the solder jobs you show here. This coming from a Naval Nuclear Reactor Safety Controls Electronics Tech/Reactor Operator. I spent 4 week on Ford Island in a school that taught soldering the right way. We had salty senior/master chiefs looking at our work through jeweler's loups and I swear, even after spending 100+ hours practicing and when I though I had the perfect joints, they never passed me.
A bit after the fact, but they're right. That tip is so oxidized it can't transfer heat properly, so it acts like it's not hot enough. Hopefully you procured a new Weller station since this video, but following Robert and Roy's (heh, Rob Roy) tips will make your tips last soooo much longer. I completely knackered the tip on my cheap Radio Shack iron, it was so badly oxidized that the tip began to crumble. The paper towel blunt is a good tip, but I personally prefer a brass wool tip cleaner. It does a great job of cleaning the tip without damaging it, it won't burn like paper can, and it won't cause a rapid drop in tip temperature like the wet sponge cleaners will.
Roy Niswanger That is a fantastic lesson for us newbies.Do I need to have any concerns about possibly damaging components from heat damage when holding the soldering iron on for more than a few seconds prior to adding the solder ?
Thanks! Got my button installed tonight. Was a tight fit getting the pi in the case but I think the pi helps hold the button in place. Works like a charm.
Thank you very much for this video. I was one of the people asking how you mount the button, and I appreciate you taking the time and going back to make a step by step guide. Much appreciated.
For those of you having an issue with the LED staying on when you press the power button do the following sudo nano /boot/config.txt and add the following line to the end of the file enable_uart=1 press ctrl-X, then Y, then enter sudo reboot
Incredible dedication on the raspberry pi, I love how you always on point with the latest upgrades, mods and updates on these devices, you are awesome, great vids and you get to the point no crappy background music, gimmicks or naked people, lol, just the facts, thanks for your help it's very much appreciated.
Indeed always good videos without any annoying electronic or heavy trash background music. But hey what's wrong with naked people in raspberry pi videos? ;-)
Is there a way to install this button WITHOUT using the GPIO Pin 3/5 as you've done? That is the SCL pin and I am planning on using a mini info display on my Pi that also needs that pin...?
Great walkthrough I ended up using the exact same button and was able to get the button in VERY snug (no glue needed) with a 25/64 bit. Enabling the UART is KEY!!! QUESTION: is there any update in the script to shut the fan off when going to sleep? And also save metadata? (needs kill emulationstation)
I'm eagerly waiting for my button to come in the mail so I can install it on my Flirc cased Pi but I did have a question. By using the button to shutdown, does it perform a safe shutdown or should I be shutting down through ES like I have been?
Great videos, thanks for all the info.... one question, will the diagram work correctly if I use a switch with only four connectors and splice in a separate led ran elsewhere in the case? I suspect it should work being the only shared connection between the led and the switch is the ground wires... just a nervous newb.
i have a question for you (because i dont know if i understood good). is this button shutdown power completly (so no leds flashing anymore on rpi) or only shutdown the system ?
I know the video is a year old and I am working on my first pi but do you know the alternative pins to connect to in case I have a dual sync fan attached to the pins your showing as connected with the switch? Curious on your thoughts...
Hey man, followed your excellent guide with the exact same parts (using the on/off script too) and everything works except for ONE thing. The LED light within the button, it only comes on momentarily when I click it to wake up the Pi, never at any other time. Any thoughts???? Thanks :)
Never mind, found the answer below... "I'm using this exact switch, and connecting to the correct pins, but the LED lights for just a moment when powering on, then shuts off. I researched and found that if you experience this with the Pi 3, then it is because the UART behavior was changed for the model 3 Pi. To fix it, I found you have to go into /boot/config.txt (use sudo nano /boot/config.txt) and add the line enable_uart=1 This fixes the behavior of the LED power light on the model 3, however I did notice that once the light goes out, you should wait a few moments before disconnecting power (the green activity light still flashes for a few moments after the LED light goes out)." Works fantastic now (even though my drilling wasn't perfect, oh well! :D
I have a question about the case with fan diagram in the description!!! Does this diagram allow the momentary switch to turn on/off retropie and the fan at the same time? If not is there another wiring diagram that can work with this setup?
Hey ETA PRIME Love your content. A friend asked me to install an on/off switch on a pi 3 b+ I put together for him after watching your videos. I did as you said and followed the updated diagram for wiring, as his case does have a fan. Button worked fine after installing the script, but the fan will not shut off as long as the power cord is plugged in. Any fixes available?
ETA, or anybody please help? My switch has only four connectors how should I go about connecting a separate LED, to the switch connectors in order to make my LED also connected to the script necessary for functioning LED power button.? If possible lets use NW, NE, SE, SW for each of the four connections? Sorry,I am just very new to the pi scene.
It's better to never ever turn a computer/cpu base system off unless you absolutely have too it will last longer and run more trouble free. Feed them clean power too using a good UPS. That kinda goes for any and all electronic equipment.
So I was wondering is there a way to install the script through Kodi? I'm running quad boot with the led button but the light/power button works when running retropie and raspban but not on Kodi.
Hey :D nice video i ordered everything :) do you have tipps for getting faster boot times with Android on the pi ( i installes it in my car and it sucks to wait all the time :/
Can you please do a video on how to connect to WiFi in RetroPie if you don't have a keyboard available to plugin to the Pi? I heard there was something about putting a text file with the Wireless name and credentials in it, but can't figure it out..
Yea, I ran into the problem a couple weeks ago. Had my laptop and an SD card reader, but didn't have a keyboard to be able to type the credentials to the WiFi at the vacation house I was at. Seems like if you have a way to put a text file onto the SD card, you should be able to do it...I just wasn't able to figure it out/make it work.
ETA PRIME oh childhood rebellion. I so miss being young. Getting drunk with my friends playing Mario Kart 64, Chef's luv shack or 007 at our all weekend long gaming parties. Good times.
ETA PRIME could you please clarify wat u mean about gluing the switch itself but be careful not to glue the switch together or does anyone here get wat he means by that???? Also if you could give me a link for the jumper wires u have!!!!
I'm using an NO 3V led switch which when connected to the same pins as yours lights up but the button wont shut the pi down. If I connect a switch without an LED the script works. Any ideas?
James Scriver thanks for the reply. Got it working late last night, couldn't find the option to enable it at first then saw a comment that explained where it was.
@@ultravioletxrays125 well, actually it’s because it has no storage space on it, so while yes, your answer is correct, the reason is due to the lack of storage.
Why do people discredit their own equipment? Sounds so distasteful. You bought it on a budget, it works for the job, who cares if its crap. Its functional.
Hey :D nice video i ordered everything :) do you have tipps for getting faster boot times with Android on the pi ( i installes it in my car and it sucks to wait all the time :/
I'm using this exact switch, and connecting to the correct pins, but the LED lights for just a moment when powering on, then shuts off. I researched and found that if you experience this with the Pi 3, then it is because the UART behavior was changed for the model 3 Pi. To fix it, I found you have to go into /boot/config.txt (use sudo nano /boot/config.txt) and add the line enable_uart=1
This fixes the behavior of the LED power light on the model 3, however I did notice that once the light goes out, you should wait a few moments before disconnecting power (the green activity light still flashes for a few moments after the LED light goes out).
Not sure if this has been covered in prior comments or not, but strangely a google search turned up nothing on this topic. I guess most people aren't bothering with LED power indicators on RetroPie these days.
Sean's Retroverse thanks Sean, this helped me out immensely, was having the same issue... At first I thought I burnt the led out right away... I was like "wtf"... Then double checked it was a 12v led again... Then i shut it down, rebooted again... Saw led was still working momentarily again... Thanks for your helpful hint!
THANK YOU!!!!! Works now! I am using the Borkin Button and this wiring method RP3 and your edits to config.txt work perfect. Thanks Again!! You da best!
THANK YOU! Works perfectly
@Shareel Chand Since they tried to keep some degree of backward compatibility with the pi 4, my guess is "probably so". That being said, I personally have not played with a pi 4 to know for sure. The GPIO for the Pi 4 is supposed to be identical, and making a simple config file change should not break anything if it does not work, so try it and see! :)
@@seansretroverse9082 Thanks, if it won't work I am sure there are others out there.
I'd say your biggest problem with the soldering is that you let the tip of your soldering iron oxidize. You need to make sure that you always put some solder on the tip before you let it cool down. The tip should stay shiny from solder. That and you need to use flux.
The problem is the tip won't get hot enough it's a 30watt harbor fright iron I think I payed $2.99. My weller station died on me a few months back so I got this to hold me over.
Robert is right, just to further help, that iron you have, though cheap, it far more heat than you need to work but it can still work right if you just do a few simple things: 1. Use flux core solder (you probably are using as most has it), additional flux paste on the wire and landing helps too but not entirely necessary. 2. Take that tip when cool and use a greenie pad and take it down to bare metal (clean it with 91+ ISO or contact cleaner). 3. When you solder it vital you produce a heat-bridge first before introducing new solder to the joint/landing. To do this tin the tip of the iron first, make sure it looks wet and not "globuous" (Robert said this before). Then make sure your component is clean (use contact cleaner or 92+ ISO). 4. Place the tinned tip onto your landing for about 2 seconds and let that heat-bridge x-fer heat to the component/landing/joint, then just add a bit of fresh solder and it should flow better for you. 5. Take a paper towel and cut it so it's about 3.5" wide and the other dimension is the longest side, then roll it like a joint really tight until you have what looks like a HUGE fatty or tampon. Take narrow masking tape and take each end tight about 1/4" from the ends. Use this as a tip cleaner...when you are done with a few solder joints, rub briskly the end of your tip with this paper towel joint, then quickly re-tin the tip, EVEN IF YOU DON'T PLAN TO SOLDER RIGHT AWAY. Then say you need to solder again in a few mins, again clean the tip and apply fresh solder. Also when you are done with your last solder job, tin the tip generously and put it away like that. This will keep your tip nice and shinny as it should for its working life. You will run into open ckts in the future with the solder jobs you show here. This coming from a Naval Nuclear Reactor Safety Controls Electronics Tech/Reactor Operator. I spent 4 week on Ford Island in a school that taught soldering the right way. We had salty senior/master chiefs looking at our work through jeweler's loups and I swear, even after spending 100+ hours practicing and when I though I had the perfect joints, they never passed me.
A bit after the fact, but they're right. That tip is so oxidized it can't transfer heat properly, so it acts like it's not hot enough. Hopefully you procured a new Weller station since this video, but following Robert and Roy's (heh, Rob Roy) tips will make your tips last soooo much longer. I completely knackered the tip on my cheap Radio Shack iron, it was so badly oxidized that the tip began to crumble.
The paper towel blunt is a good tip, but I personally prefer a brass wool tip cleaner. It does a great job of cleaning the tip without damaging it, it won't burn like paper can, and it won't cause a rapid drop in tip temperature like the wet sponge cleaners will.
Roy Niswanger That is a fantastic lesson for us newbies.Do I need to have any concerns about possibly damaging components from heat damage when holding the soldering iron on for more than a few seconds prior to adding the solder ?
Thanks! Got my button installed tonight. Was a tight fit getting the pi in the case but I think the pi helps hold the button in place. Works like a charm.
Thank you very much for this video. I was one of the people asking how you mount the button, and I appreciate you taking the time and going back to make a step by step guide. Much appreciated.
With having the post act as the heastsink, it affords you a lot of working room without having to map out components. Nice work!!
For those of you having an issue with the LED staying on when you press the power button do the following
sudo nano /boot/config.txt
and add the following line to the end of the file
enable_uart=1
press ctrl-X, then Y, then enter
sudo reboot
Thanks for this. I wish he'd add it to the instructions!
Incredible dedication on the raspberry pi, I love how you always on point with the latest upgrades, mods and updates on these devices, you are awesome, great vids and you get to the point no crappy background music, gimmicks or naked people, lol, just the facts, thanks for your help it's very much appreciated.
Indeed always good videos without any annoying electronic or heavy trash background music. But hey what's wrong with naked people in raspberry pi videos? ;-)
Is there a way to install this button WITHOUT using the GPIO Pin 3/5 as you've done? That is the SCL pin and I am planning on using a mini info display on my Pi that also needs that pin...?
I used your previous tutorial to flush mount this same button on top of the flirc case. Keep it up and thank you
Could you not put some shrink wrap around the wires instead of the hot glue?
Button press on contacts 5-6 will work for turning Pi On, but will it work for turning it Off?
Great walkthrough I ended up using the exact same button and was able to get the button in VERY snug (no glue needed) with a 25/64 bit. Enabling the UART is KEY!!!
QUESTION: is there any update in the script to shut the fan off when going to sleep? And also save metadata? (needs kill emulationstation)
Okay I went for it and it needs the script. It worked for me the first time. Thanks so much.
I'm eagerly waiting for my button to come in the mail so I can install it on my Flirc cased Pi but I did have a question. By using the button to shutdown, does it perform a safe shutdown or should I be shutting down through ES like I have been?
Great videos, thanks for all the info.... one question, will the diagram work correctly if I use a switch with only four connectors and splice in a separate led ran elsewhere in the case? I suspect it should work being the only shared connection between the led and the switch is the ground wires... just a nervous newb.
Can't you just use the female cable ends to attach the button and led instead of soldering ?
I was wondering the same thing. Maybe the black plastic female connectors would hit the other GPIO pins on the pi board.
Hello, just quick one, my button lighting but not working (on/off), any extra setup is needed from a terminal to start to work ?this?
i have a question for you (because i dont know if i understood good). is this button shutdown power completly (so no leds flashing anymore on rpi) or only shutdown the system ?
I know the video is a year old and I am working on my first pi but do you know the alternative pins to connect to in case I have a dual sync fan attached to the pins your showing as connected with the switch? Curious on your thoughts...
is the button always on when pi is on power ?
That is a great tutorial. Easy to follow and a great result.
Got me and my son juiced. Will be doing this.'
Thanks.
Does it need to be pin 5 and 6 for the Switch? I bought an LCD and it uses ports 1-26 and i have ports 27-40 empty.
Someone already asked if there is a script required to run before this works, or is it just connect and it works?
Mr ETA PRIME, so being that the Power LED button is 12V, everything still works perfectly? Sorry I'm new to all this
I love the blue led light better nice work you done,
How do I do this with a nonmomentary switch? I stripped a playstation 1 and am building a pistation with original buttons and leds
I wondered how long it would be before you joined the launchbox team dude! 😂
Sorry for hijacking your video! ☺
Hi, I see that your LED is 12V, how can you connect it in a 3.3V GPIO? Is this possible?
I was wondering the same thing, but by reading the specs it's actually a 3V LED not a 12V. But it can be used on 12V by adding a resistor.
Awesome stuff. I'm gonna have to experiment a little and see if I can apply this tutorial to one of my cases from C4 Labs
Hey man, followed your excellent guide with the exact same parts (using the on/off script too) and everything works except for ONE thing. The LED light within the button, it only comes on momentarily when I click it to wake up the Pi, never at any other time. Any thoughts???? Thanks :)
Never mind, found the answer below...
"I'm using this exact switch, and connecting to the correct pins, but the LED lights for just a moment when powering on, then shuts off. I researched and found that if you experience this with the Pi 3, then it is because the UART behavior was changed for the model 3 Pi. To fix it, I found you have to go into /boot/config.txt (use sudo nano /boot/config.txt) and add the line enable_uart=1
This fixes the behavior of the LED power light on the model 3, however I did notice that once the light goes out, you should wait a few moments before disconnecting power (the green activity light still flashes for a few moments after the LED light goes out)."
Works fantastic now (even though my drilling wasn't perfect, oh well! :D
My fan doesn't stop when i switch it off With the nye uppdatera Wiring Diagram
I gave teh vid a thumbs up, the second I saw the topic. thanks.
I have a question about the case with fan diagram in the description!!! Does this diagram allow the momentary switch to turn on/off retropie and the fan at the same time?
If not is there another wiring diagram that can work with this setup?
Jason Normington the fan will turn off when you press the button and shutdown retropie
ETA PRIME Thank you very much. You're videos have been very helpful!!
Hey ETA PRIME Love your content. A friend asked me to install an on/off switch on a pi 3 b+ I put together for him after watching your videos. I did as you said and followed the updated diagram for wiring, as his case does have a fan. Button worked fine after installing the script, but the fan will not shut off as long as the power cord is plugged in. Any fixes available?
ETA, or anybody please help? My switch has only four connectors how should I go about connecting a separate LED, to the switch connectors in order to make my LED also connected to the script necessary for functioning LED power button.? If possible lets use NW, NE, SE, SW for each of the four connections? Sorry,I am just very new to the pi scene.
Do you know what international temperature you are getting by streaming on you pi3b? Below 150f? I know, random question
It's better to never ever turn a computer/cpu base system off unless you absolutely have too it will last longer and run more trouble free. Feed them clean power too using a good UPS. That kinda goes for any and all electronic equipment.
Will it work if I Connect it to any 3.3v and any ground pin ?
Why not use a panel mount button? not enough clearance inside?
So I was wondering is there a way to install the script through Kodi? I'm running quad boot with the led button but the light/power button works when running retropie and raspban but not on Kodi.
Hey :D nice video i ordered everything :) do you have tipps for getting faster boot times with Android on the pi ( i installes it in my car and it sucks to wait all the time :/
Is there a script that needs to be added or is it just add the components and go?
Any idea why this does not work on motion blue build?
Can you please do a video on how to connect to WiFi in RetroPie if you don't have a keyboard available to plugin to the Pi? I heard there was something about putting a text file with the Wireless name and credentials in it, but can't figure it out..
Robert Nine yeah I can do one tomorrow. Are you install the image from a laptop?
Yea, I ran into the problem a couple weeks ago. Had my laptop and an SD card reader, but didn't have a keyboard to be able to type the credentials to the WiFi at the vacation house I was at. Seems like if you have a way to put a text file onto the SD card, you should be able to do it...I just wasn't able to figure it out/make it work.
Weird question. But I gotta ask. Is that a line tattoo on your left thumb?
yeah Indian ink and a needle when i was 14
ETA PRIME oh childhood rebellion. I so miss being young. Getting drunk with my friends playing Mario Kart 64, Chef's luv shack or 007 at our all weekend long gaming parties. Good times.
ETA PRIME could you please clarify wat u mean about gluing the switch itself but be careful not to glue the switch together or does anyone here get wat he means by that???? Also if you could give me a link for the jumper wires u have!!!!
Awesome! Exactly what I was waiting for
Love your videos ETA :) Can I ask...would this shutdown script work correctly on Hyperpie Crisps 128gb image? Thanks in advance
Does this work with retropie 4.4 .?
This dosnt work on the new retorpie 4.4
Tried it on pi zero, zero w, pi 3, and a b+
Only works on old versions of retropie
thank you, another great video with a great tutorial. was waiting for this. thumbs up for you ;)
led is working fine,but the power button doesn`t work!
Your will have to install shutdown script from howchoo.com/g/mwnlytk3zmm/how-to-add-a-power-button-to-your-raspberry-pi
where to buy the wiring kit ? ty
What case are you using?
Where did you buy that case?
Does the original script need to be changed for an LED button to work?
I'm using an NO 3V led switch which when connected to the same pins as yours lights up but the button wont shut the pi down. If I connect a switch without an LED the script works. Any ideas?
Managed to get the button working now but the LED only comes on when pressed then goes off. Any one help ?
You need to enable serial on the pi, then the led should work properly.
James Scriver thanks for the reply. Got it working late last night, couldn't find the option to enable it at first then saw a comment that explained where it was.
Is there any way I can BUy one of these from you?
Gpio cable, female to male??
What makes horrible solder? What makes good solder?
Lead. Sadly, unleaded solder can be a bit poor flowing.
Hakko S. Iron all day. Best 80$ I ever spent
nice one
The Led without any RESISTANCE at 3.3 volts?
So load the CMOS port so much that it cannot deliver more amps?
No, No !
Below you left thumb is that a tattoo?
+RadOne83 yep stupid Indian ink when I was like 14 years old.
eta prime can you do a review on a cetus 3d pinter
Why can't the Pi just come with a damn switch? Hehe
no code comes with it. It cannot recognize the button as being a way to turn off. Of course, this is an easy solution.
@@ultravioletxrays125 well, actually it’s because it has no storage space on it, so while yes, your answer is correct, the reason is due to the lack of storage.
But ... Why ?
Anyone who did this have an extra one of those buttons and maybe the 4 female jumpers wires they'd like to send my way?
Why do people discredit their own equipment? Sounds so distasteful. You bought it on a budget, it works for the job, who cares if its crap. Its functional.
yoo clean that iron thats why its beeding 1 WORD FLUX
First! Lol
+Matt Borkin dude I've had so many people ask how to mount it in the case
ETA PRIME I bet!!! Now that you are CZcams famous, I'm just thrilled that I was able to snatch the first comment spot.
No reason to install this nonsense blue light.
Hey :D nice video i ordered everything :) do you have tipps for getting faster boot times with Android on the pi ( i installes it in my car and it sucks to wait all the time :/
+merk i use a Samsung orange 32gb card
ETA PRIME how fast does it get?