I’ve never used the 1800, but I’ve spent I’ve spent a gazillion hours over the years on an several Ellis 1600’s. Absolutely excellent machines! Everything is so adjustable, such as the blade guides etc. And the fact that Ellis has proven that the use of that messy, pain in the ass cutting fluid is completely unnecessary, is the icing on the cake! Just found you channel tonight, and loving it!
I can easily imagine you building a seat on bearings that you could use to slide over nearer to your work for vertical work. It would be more comfortable than leaning over... says a guy with a bad back. Cool project idea incase you need another one! At least that is what I will do when I get mine! Love your educational videos my friend!!!
Love my Ellis, but sure wish I could get it to stop popping teeth off the blades. The company says a blade should last better than a year, but I'm going through two or three a year because once that first tooth pops it's all downhill from there. You can keep running the blade, but the cuts aren't square anymore. Got a tip that'll help you cut short pieces without having to install your table. I'll shoot you a pic over on IG.
@@westweld No idea, honestly. I mostly cut steel under 1/4", maybe 1/2" round bar, so I oped for the finer tooth blades. Something, though, is causing the head to bounce as it's cutting, and once that starts... a popped tooth is gonna happen. I've double-checked everything I can think of, and everything feels tight.
@@threeriversforge1997 That's been my experience as well with the 1600. But for me it's with 4 TPI blades cutting 6" round bar. Once it hops, the teeth get embedded in the stock kerf cut, and as they are bi-metal teeth, cobalt HSS steel, they just destroy the rest of the blade, and I have to cut next to that with a new blade to salvage the material. It's frustrating to have to "babysit" the saw to prevent destroying another blade. I've tried adjusting the spring for light pressure, which just extends the cutting time. As well the hydraulic down feed rate. That hop is some sort of the balance resonance of the machine.
@@f.hababorbitz I'm glad that I'm not alone in this. The whole idea behind buying the saw was to be able to walk away and do something else while it was cutting. Having to sit right beside it, babysitting as you say, is aggravating. I still haven't found what I'm doing wrong, so maybe it is some kind of resonance issue.
We've had a 1600 in the shop for 40+ yrs. I used to love it until I got a Marvel old 8, now the Ellis just collects dust. I was putting more lbs. of spent blades in the scrap bin than saw chips.
Ya I like the marvel and do alls and rollin saws but they just take up a ton of room and that new pipe trick i showed on my newest video means I probably won't need a vertical saw very often anymore
Yeah that's a neat trick with the pipe semicircle. Doesn't work with the crappy lever lock vise on the 1600 tho. I made some similar pipe hold downs for the T slots in the Marvel table, works great for miters
Long time West Weld! I love my Ellis saw (unless) I'm mitering same length angle iron. Square, rectangular and round is easy-just rotate 180* Do you have any Ideas for same length mitered cuts on angle? Thanks Brother!
What are your thoughts on using a cutoff wheel in an Evolution miter saw for small stuff? We were eating blades on the Evolution so we ordered an Ellis 1600. We have a mill for tight tolerance work and figure a cutoff would last longer and stay "sharp" on steel.
I think abrasive wheels have their place if your cutting alot of parts that aren't that dimensionally critical they're great and cheap the down side is they make a mess and aren't very accurate........as far as using an abrasive wheel in a dry cut saw it would really depend on the saw.......abrasive wheels generally need alot higher rpm than a dry cut saw in mine i know the rpms would be too low
I was hoping you had some modified vise attachment to hold small stuff. I did spring for the vertical attachment stuff (was on the machine once) and the extension table when I got the 1600. But in reality, I use the cheap 4x6 import saw for all the small stuff. I have a blade welder that can go to 3/4", but I can't make blades for the Ellis.
@@threeriversforge1997 I generally end up using a large "C" clamp for the odd stuff that the Ellis vise will not hold. Should be interesting to see your spin on this. I'm still subscribed, so I should see a notification when you upload the video.
@@jdutta78 to get it in the garage you can take the chip tray out and slide a floor jack under it and balance it. It takes two guys to balance it but then you can roll it in the shop
We're ordering a gantry crane for the shop (in part for getting heavy stuff onto a weld table but also to handle heavy equipment). You can find them in all price ranges (we're getting 3 ton Spanco...but I've seen them for $500 or so).
I’ve never used the 1800, but I’ve spent I’ve spent a gazillion hours over the years on an several Ellis 1600’s. Absolutely excellent machines! Everything is so adjustable, such as the blade guides etc. And the fact that Ellis has proven that the use of that messy, pain in the ass cutting fluid is completely unnecessary, is the icing on the cake! Just found you channel tonight, and loving it!
I can easily imagine you building a seat on bearings that you could use to slide over nearer to your work for vertical work. It would be more comfortable than leaning over... says a guy with a bad back. Cool project idea incase you need another one! At least that is what I will do when I get mine! Love your educational videos my friend!!!
hello ! from what i have seen its a well organized shop . i am glad for you. hope to see more projects. good luck and God bless
Thanks for showing me this option!
Love my Ellis, but sure wish I could get it to stop popping teeth off the blades. The company says a blade should last better than a year, but I'm going through two or three a year because once that first tooth pops it's all downhill from there. You can keep running the blade, but the cuts aren't square anymore. Got a tip that'll help you cut short pieces without having to install your table. I'll shoot you a pic over on IG.
Thats interesting......did you get a bad batch of blades mine last for months I haven't had the chipping problem
@@westweld No idea, honestly. I mostly cut steel under 1/4", maybe 1/2" round bar, so I oped for the finer tooth blades. Something, though, is causing the head to bounce as it's cutting, and once that starts... a popped tooth is gonna happen. I've double-checked everything I can think of, and everything feels tight.
@@threeriversforge1997 That's been my experience as well with the 1600. But for me it's with 4 TPI blades cutting 6" round bar. Once it hops, the teeth get embedded in the stock kerf cut, and as they are bi-metal teeth, cobalt HSS steel, they just destroy the rest of the blade, and I have to cut next to that with a new blade to salvage the material. It's frustrating to have to "babysit" the saw to prevent destroying another blade. I've tried adjusting the spring for light pressure, which just extends the cutting time. As well the hydraulic down feed rate. That hop is some sort of the balance resonance of the machine.
I contacted blade seller and ordered less aggressive blades. Also go Real slow when cutting thin material.
@@f.hababorbitz I'm glad that I'm not alone in this. The whole idea behind buying the saw was to be able to walk away and do something else while it was cutting. Having to sit right beside it, babysitting as you say, is aggravating. I still haven't found what I'm doing wrong, so maybe it is some kind of resonance issue.
From iraq well done
We've had a 1600 in the shop for 40+ yrs. I used to love it until I got a Marvel old 8, now the Ellis just collects dust. I was putting more lbs. of spent blades in the scrap bin than saw chips.
Ya I like the marvel and do alls and rollin saws but they just take up a ton of room and that new pipe trick i showed on my newest video means I probably won't need a vertical saw very often anymore
Yeah that's a neat trick with the pipe semicircle. Doesn't work with the crappy lever lock vise on the 1600 tho. I made some similar pipe hold downs for the T slots in the Marvel table, works great for miters
@@AndrewSpencer2 ya the lever lock vise doesn't work for much of anything
Can you swivel the bandsaw in the vertical position in order to stand closer to the work when cutting vertically?
Long time West Weld! I love my Ellis saw (unless) I'm mitering same length angle iron. Square, rectangular and round is easy-just rotate 180* Do you have any Ideas for same length mitered cuts on angle? Thanks Brother!
Can you show the stand you made for your evo cold cut chop saw?
What are your thoughts on using a cutoff wheel in an Evolution miter saw for small stuff? We were eating blades on the Evolution so we ordered an Ellis 1600. We have a mill for tight tolerance work and figure a cutoff would last longer and stay "sharp" on steel.
I think abrasive wheels have their place if your cutting alot of parts that aren't that dimensionally critical they're great and cheap the down side is they make a mess and aren't very accurate........as far as using an abrasive wheel in a dry cut saw it would really depend on the saw.......abrasive wheels generally need alot higher rpm than a dry cut saw in mine i know the rpms would be too low
You gotta do a shop tour I'm working with the 4x6 HF & a swag port a ban . What lathe & mill you git
I plan to do a shop tour down the road......swag is a good company i have their bender......my lathe is a clausing 5914 and I have a bridgeport mill.
I was hoping you had some modified vise attachment to hold small stuff. I did spring for the vertical attachment stuff (was on the machine once) and the extension table when I got the 1600. But in reality, I use the cheap 4x6 import saw for all the small stuff. I have a blade welder that can go to 3/4", but I can't make blades for the Ellis.
I use the little portaband on the table for the small stuff its just more convenient
Stand by. The vise attachment to hold small stuff will be appearing soon. ;)
@@threeriversforge1997 easier to make too
@@westweld Yea, a little bit! :D
@@threeriversforge1997 I generally end up using a large "C" clamp for the odd stuff that the Ellis vise will not hold. Should be interesting to see your spin on this. I'm still subscribed, so I should see a notification when you upload the video.
I'm thinking of getting one of these saws. We cut a lot of steel tube, 8x6, 6x4 etc. will it cut 8" at 45 degrees?
It says it will cut 9inch round at 45 so I suspect yes
Nice mod.
I am curious. When you cut that 3/4 inch stock, your hands were bare. Did the stock even get hot at all?
Not really.... if it was a longer cut it might have gotten warm
@@westweld Thanks! This saw might be what I am looking for.
@@markmoreno7295 its a great saw I use it in alot of my other videos too.....if you want to see it in action.
How do you lift the saw out of the pallet?
I used a forklift
@@westweld so you used some straps through the base and used forklift arms up high. Any other way for a home garage?
@@jdutta78 to get it in the garage you can take the chip tray out and slide a floor jack under it and balance it. It takes two guys to balance it but then you can roll it in the shop
We're ordering a gantry crane for the shop (in part for getting heavy stuff onto a weld table but also to handle heavy equipment). You can find them in all price ranges (we're getting 3 ton Spanco...but I've seen them for $500 or so).