Wish people would stop making negative comments about this guy he’s doing everybody a favour taking his time to post these really helpful and well made videos to help the diy home mechanics go get your job done at the dealer if you don’t like his videos
Those sumps leave 200 ml of oil in them when you change the oil. My wife just hit a rock in our 308 and did not tell me. However she told me the oil warning was coming on occasionally. I took it for drive and the oil light came on going around right hand corners. This was in the middle of engine management light issues. So under I get and surprise surprise there is a big crease down the engine protection plate. I remove that and there is crease down the sump. Remove the sump and the plastic oil pickup had snapped up above the 3 mounting screws resulting in it losing oil pressure as the oil went left as the car was going right. Now I am waiting for the sump and oil pickup to arrive.
Hi David, yeah, absolutely right about these sumps. I had a video on how much is left inside (czcams.com/video/5kevvRopWUc/video.html). I now have a big syringe to suck the oil left in the sum on oil changes Good luck with the sump replacement
There is a pattern sequence for all types of covers, sumps, heads, etc. Starting from middle bolts to end bolts turning left side and right side and across to pre-torque, and then again same pattern - torque to correct settings. (Like expanding X ) Unless it's said differently in the car manual, this is the general rule. But thanks for the nice video!!!
Nice. And for more good news, just returned from the MOT under new stricter rules here in France. With 142K km and doing the stuff myself now, I was a bit nervous but it's good and we can use it for another 2 years. Two things came up, the fog lights low in the front bumper were pointing too low, well that's a bit of a mess up from my part, I knew I put the bumper assembly on the car tighter then it was before after I cleaned out the intercooler, but totally forgot that this could have messed up the alignment of those little lights, sure that is an easy thing to get right. The other was an obd fault code P1351 for an anamoly in anti pollution fluid without dysfunctioning important. I guess I need to fill up/ replace that fluid. Thanks because it were your videos that showed me so much so I was able to get the things done. It feels pretty cool to see all the things I have done like the brakes are all in good working order.
Nice one Wim. Good to hear you have done well with the car. Every time I go for an MOT they always say the lights are too high and I have not done anything. Could well be tyre pressure, etc. There was this one time, before me doing work on the car myself, one of the headlights had broken support plastic and was dangling. Went to the garage, they charged me for a full headlight and then in two months time went to the same garage for an MOT. They phoned me that the car had failed and one headlight was aiming too high and wanted to charge me £30 to adjust/fix it (too much money for nothing). I asked which headlight was that and it was the same one. I told them you replaced it two months ago, she checked their records and fixed it without charging me. Ridiculous amount of money for a simple screw for the adjustment. I have not yet figured a way to adjust them myself, kind of a simple way. I do not want to buy the expensive thing/prism that you put in front the headlights. I need a wall, but difficult to get one and the ground is level. I need to do some work on the car, coolant, brakes, service, etc., before the MOT this year, probably brake fluid as well and of course remove all of my oil catch cans, despite these reducing the pollution of the car. Might do a video of something that was not covered before by other people. I only try to film stuff that was not covered before. All the best
more molecules thanks, there is a reason you see the derogation "stealer ship" mentioned a lot reading/viewing about day car things... We are lucky and have dial to turn to adjust height of main lights from inside, and I really took good care of placing the huge headlight assemblies back, the bumper however is also very huge (funny to take those thing inside to show to family, in another setting the scale becomes more clear:)) and when taking it apart I saw it could be assembled tighter, so of course I did, making some gaps half the size. I feel so stupid not thinking about the ligttle , never used fog lights down there, I should have known the alignment was off when putting things back a little different. The garage guy said it was really not important, they area extra and no reason for failing an MOT, It was funny, they called earlier saying, the oil filter and oil have not been changed in four years, so I replied, no worries, I changed the oil, filter and diesel filter and air filter half a year ago. To which he replied, d'accord superb" (ok that's good) and then we got the paper with the fault code, this is the first time they actually provided that, normally they just out regular speak things like tires need replacement, but now a code. He also was very respectful with icy is pretty cool for a French guy towards a non Franch person here. Of course their name is on the car and it looks pretty nice (I wash carefully despite a flock of thousands of birds residing in the bamboo in out front yard every day right behind where the car is. It got me thinking, it must be hard to do a job with your hands knowing your customers are basically too lazy or not caring enough to look into it, must be nice to see somebody doing a proper job and keeping a 13 year old car looking like new :)
@@Quibus777 Hahah, nice one with the oil, oil filter and air filter :-) Last time I went to a garage they asked me, "you dabble a bit, don't you". I did not admit I do anything with cars, I was playing the dumb customer, hahaha
@@moremolecules hahaha i did took out all non standard things and tools before we went to drop it off (like the obd2 to USB cable that is always connected to attach a little reader for temp and such during driving )and the mirror with dash cam that is over the regular rear view mirror and the cable to connect rear view cam (,though I left the cam for its screwed to the rear bumper)
@@moremolecules - I'll drop my 2 cents on the way out! "...I need a wall, but difficult to get one and the ground is level..." In fact it's incredibly easy. Go to ANY underground parking. Problem solved. Depending on your location big supermarkets or shopping malls will allow for free parking. So it's even better. BTW 3 minutes is all you need anyway. Flat walls and flat leveled ground everywhere. Plus the fact it's dark enough to make it a breeze regarding headlight adjustment. K.I.S.S. is always the best. ;-)
This original desing oil sump of 1.6 HDI/Tdci engines has a big flaw. Bolt is not at the lowest point of the sump, so there is left about 0.2 liters of old oil, really unbelievable.
Yes, it does have a bit of a design flaw, although I understand the manufacturer's thinking. If the bolt is sticking down it has a higher chance of being hit by something and loss of oil. I think that was the reason of pushing the bolt inside the sump.
@@philipmaguire9209 Not that difficult, only difficulty is taking the bracket that holds the EGR to the cooler. Best done with the tool, otherwise is difficult. Replace with a screwdriver bracket, much is easier later on.
this video arrives 2 days late,the plastic tip of the oil gauge broke inside the strainer and there was no way to get it out so I had to remove the sump and the strainer, all done last weekend ,thanks 😊 anyway
Unfortunately I have no oil gauge, although would love to have one. I suspect that it measures it somehow as I get oil indication before I start the car. Good that you have it sorted!
Excellent ! Thanks ! Too bad your replacement housing does not have the flat bottom to correct the defect of the original. Thanks to you for your video. :)
Hi Predrag, if you are replacing the turbo the oil sump needs to be taken off and the oil pickup replaced or at least cleaned or inspected. There was a comment yesterday that the oil gauge tip was broken in the oil pickup and there is nothing else one can do. One additional reason, when the old gasket leaks oil, it could be an MOT failure and the sealant needs to be re-applied.
As a matter of fact all those reasons. Are no reason to change it! LOL 😂 Admittedly you changed the oil sump, because you wanted to. Surely not because it was needed. Fact is that without damage, the "old" oil sump would out live the car itself. Just like Predrag I never seen anyone change an oil sump exclusively for the "look" of it. After all this is a Peugeot Partner, not exactly a concours classic vehicle. BTW for what its worth. Tip: In most cases you can retrieve the oil dipstick broken tip, from these engines. With a vacuum cleaner (Hover). Just make sure you empty the oil sump first (for obvious reasons). ;-) And provision some way to later clean the vacuum pipes/hose. Or in other words, don't use your wife's best vacuum cleaner. A workshop vacuum will extend your survival possibilities...LOL 😂 Cheers
@@crpth1 If you check any PSA guide on turbo replacement, it is always recommended to replace the sump with the oil pickup. It is a potential reason for a turbo failure. It was also leaking. The cost of the sump is nearly nothing and I get the benefit to know that there is no sludge or anything inside. Now, of course one can leave as it is and it is a Peugeot Partner, but I intend to drive this car quite a few more miles.
Hi just removed the oil sump and found pick up pioe damaged snapped off.. and strainer too I will replace asap however can you tell me if its a allen key needed to remove it plus size . Thankyou p.s did not need to renew the down pipe blessing in it. Peugeot estate 1.6 2005.. . Hdi ..
Hi Ulas, I designed the oil catch can pipes myself, I have a few videos of how I did it, have a look at my oil catch can videos. I am not too sure what you mean by "open air filer".
I've just started this now but the rain is coming...deffo need to remove the muffler on the Berlingo 2006 to get to that difficult bolt or by hand and very strong hands to crack the nut
I managed to replace the sump without taking enything else off, but I was strugling with putting new one sump on without touching sealant, because there is a bolt standing out just above that flexible pipe.
It could be that the pressure oil sensor is faulty or if the oil filter was recently changed it was not fitted properly and there is a bit of loss of pressure. If I were you, I would replace the filter again or open it and screw it back on again. You need to drop the oil before hand and either put new oil/filter or put the old oil back in.
Not an easy way to do it. You need to drop the sump and take out the broken parts and then re-seal the sump. Dipstick tube itself is integral to the engine, no way to remove the dipstick tube itself.
@@moremolecules I I have successfully removed a broken dipstick using this method: 1) Remove the oil from the engine and keep it clean for refilling. 2) Let the oil sum open from the bottom with the bolt removed. 3) Connect with adhesive tape a small diameter tube between your vacuum cleaner and the dipstick tube on the top of the engine. 4) Power on the vacuum cleaner and the broken part of the dipstick will come !
@@philipmaguire9209 There is upper part (front), middle (intermediate) section and rear exhaust. The middle section has a kink. They all are connected with the same bracket. Basically you have to remove the bolts and can be taken out. If bolts are rusty and cannot be removed, you need to cut them out, no other option.
As shown in the video or maybe I missed the question. I had another series of videos changing the turbo, so I removed it again, maybe it is better shown there. Which minute in the video is that?
Sussed it out how to remove that nut behind down pipe remove clip joins the pipe to flexi going give it a bash morning Hope I can get pan out ? Pipe there ?
If this is about the turbo oil pickup, see my 5 videos on replacing it, the torque settings and how to do it is explained/given there: czcams.com/video/Q7S0qDBo314/video.html . This is the first video, but I think in the second or third they are all given.
Thanks for the reply. It's the oil pick up in the oil sump. You clean it in this video but the one on this car was too blocked so I bought another one. The new one comes with three bolts with thread locker on but I'm worried about getting the torque right as it's plastic. Thanks
Thanks. The oil pick up went back on okay but the oil pan was a bit of a disaster. I messed up the settings on the torque wrench and accidentally tightened the oil pan bolts to 28nm. Which inevitably led to one of them snapping. So I don't know what to do now. Doesn't bode well for the rest of the turbo replacement.
@@TheFlibNet I have snapped quite a few bolts like that during all my working on the car. I always thought that some bolts are not tight enough and went on to tighten them even more and they snap. Do not worry too much abou this. Remove the sump and start again with new bolts, same diameter/thread. Clean it well and do according torque. The bolt thread that is left you should be able to remove with pliers. It should be alright with the rest, if I can manage and I do not really have that much experience myself and thought myself how to do it, you can do it as well. Somehow your comment about the manifod torque dissappeared, which bolts are these? Are those the turbo manifold bolts?
@@moremolecules The old one might have been removed in the past as the factory wouldn't have that much on there. When cutting the nozzle for the RTV I cut it at an angle to help apply it so it'll be a thinner film not a long blob.
@@DevinderAthwal306 Good tips. Yes, it was probably previous owner or something, way too much before, not that I did not put as much, haha. Not too sure if I cut it at an angle.
You do not need to if you can get the sump off. I found that I needed to remove it as access was much easier. The middle part has flexi, so easier to move around, but the upper part is rigid and obstructs accessing the bolts to get the sump off. Unless you mean the very downpipe, which you do not need to remove. The middle part connection is flexi, so one just moves it aside slightly.
@@philipmaguire9209 You do not want to remove the middle part, it is difficult as it goes inside the cabin. The one bolt, you can perhaps cut it and get a new bracket. They rust pretty quick anyway.
@@philipmaguire9209 The first bracket that holds the upper part to the flexi. The flexi can stay in place and you only kind of move it aside to access the bolts. It is a bit in the way, but because it is somewhat flexible you can slightly push it aside.
Wish people would stop making negative comments about this guy he’s doing everybody a favour taking his time to post these really helpful and well made videos to help the diy home mechanics go get your job done at the dealer if you don’t like his videos
Thank you very much indeed Richard for the comment, much appreciated!
He's brilliant I've fixed loads on my Berlingo thanks to him saved hundreds and counting! This sump change is next!
Guy seem to be very helpfull to me respect him.. i do
Agree his been a blessing to Me humble guy helping us all save time money
Those sumps leave 200 ml of oil in them when you change the oil. My wife just hit a rock in our 308 and did not tell me. However she told me the oil warning was coming on occasionally. I took it for drive and the oil light came on going around right hand corners. This was in the middle of engine management light issues. So under I get and surprise surprise there is a big crease down the engine protection plate. I remove that and there is crease down the sump. Remove the sump and the plastic oil pickup had snapped up above the 3 mounting screws resulting in it losing oil pressure as the oil went left as the car was going right. Now I am waiting for the sump and oil pickup to arrive.
Hi David, yeah, absolutely right about these sumps. I had a video on how much is left inside (czcams.com/video/5kevvRopWUc/video.html). I now have a big syringe to suck the oil left in the sum on oil changes Good luck with the sump replacement
I have just done this job on a 308 T9 2016 which is near identical in terms of this video. I think you have done a good job.
There is a pattern sequence for all types of covers, sumps, heads, etc. Starting from middle bolts to end bolts turning left side and right side and across to pre-torque, and then again same pattern - torque to correct settings. (Like expanding X )
Unless it's said differently in the car manual, this is the general rule.
But thanks for the nice video!!!
Thank you fot the correction and advice, appreciate it
Nice.
And for more good news, just returned from the MOT under new stricter rules here in France. With 142K km and doing the stuff myself now, I was a bit nervous but it's good and we can use it for another 2 years.
Two things came up, the fog lights low in the front bumper were pointing too low, well that's a bit of a mess up from my part, I knew I put the bumper assembly on the car tighter then it was before after I cleaned out the intercooler, but totally forgot that this could have messed up the alignment of those little lights, sure that is an easy thing to get right.
The other was an obd fault code P1351 for an anamoly in anti pollution fluid without dysfunctioning important. I guess I need to fill up/ replace that fluid.
Thanks because it were your videos that showed me so much so I was able to get the things done. It feels pretty cool to see all the things I have done like the brakes are all in good working order.
Nice one Wim. Good to hear you have done well with the car. Every time I go for an MOT they always say the lights are too high and I have not done anything. Could well be tyre pressure, etc. There was this one time, before me doing work on the car myself, one of the headlights had broken support plastic and was dangling. Went to the garage, they charged me for a full headlight and then in two months time went to the same garage for an MOT. They phoned me that the car had failed and one headlight was aiming too high and wanted to charge me £30 to adjust/fix it (too much money for nothing). I asked which headlight was that and it was the same one. I told them you replaced it two months ago, she checked their records and fixed it without charging me. Ridiculous amount of money for a simple screw for the adjustment. I have not yet figured a way to adjust them myself, kind of a simple way. I do not want to buy the expensive thing/prism that you put in front the headlights. I need a wall, but difficult to get one and the ground is level. I need to do some work on the car, coolant, brakes, service, etc., before the MOT this year, probably brake fluid as well and of course remove all of my oil catch cans, despite these reducing the pollution of the car. Might do a video of something that was not covered before by other people. I only try to film stuff that was not covered before.
All the best
more molecules thanks, there is a reason you see the derogation "stealer ship" mentioned a lot reading/viewing about day car things... We are lucky and have dial to turn to adjust height of main lights from inside, and I really took good care of placing the huge headlight assemblies back, the bumper however is also very huge (funny to take those thing inside to show to family, in another setting the scale becomes more clear:)) and when taking it apart I saw it could be assembled tighter, so of course I did, making some gaps half the size. I feel so stupid not thinking about the ligttle , never used fog lights down there, I should have known the alignment was off when putting things back a little different. The garage guy said it was really not important, they area extra and no reason for failing an MOT,
It was funny, they called earlier saying, the oil filter and oil have not been changed in four years, so I replied, no worries, I changed the oil, filter and diesel filter and air filter half a year ago. To which he replied, d'accord superb" (ok that's good) and then we got the paper with the fault code, this is the first time they actually provided that, normally they just out regular speak things like tires need replacement, but now a code. He also was very respectful with icy is pretty cool for a French guy towards a non Franch person here. Of course their name is on the car and it looks pretty nice (I wash carefully despite a flock of thousands of birds residing in the bamboo in out front yard every day right behind where the car is.
It got me thinking, it must be hard to do a job with your hands knowing your customers are basically too lazy or not caring enough to look into it, must be nice to see somebody doing a proper job and keeping a 13 year old car looking like new :)
@@Quibus777 Hahah, nice one with the oil, oil filter and air filter :-) Last time I went to a garage they asked me, "you dabble a bit, don't you". I did not admit I do anything with cars, I was playing the dumb customer, hahaha
@@moremolecules hahaha i did took out all non standard things and tools before we went to drop it off (like the obd2 to USB cable that is always connected to attach a little reader for temp and such during driving )and the mirror with dash cam that is over the regular rear view mirror and the cable to connect rear view cam (,though I left the cam for its screwed to the rear bumper)
@@moremolecules - I'll drop my 2 cents on the way out!
"...I need a wall, but difficult to get one and the ground is level..."
In fact it's incredibly easy. Go to ANY underground parking. Problem solved. Depending on your location big supermarkets or shopping malls will allow for free parking. So it's even better. BTW 3 minutes is all you need anyway.
Flat walls and flat leveled ground everywhere. Plus the fact it's dark enough to make it a breeze regarding headlight adjustment. K.I.S.S. is always the best. ;-)
This original desing oil sump of 1.6 HDI/Tdci engines has a big flaw.
Bolt is not at the lowest point of the sump, so there is left about 0.2 liters of old oil, really unbelievable.
Yes, it does have a bit of a design flaw, although I understand the manufacturer's thinking. If the bolt is sticking down it has a higher chance of being hit by something and loss of oil. I think that was the reason of pushing the bolt inside the sump.
@@moremolecules They have to do it smarter, this is just stupid.
There is aftermarket solution, www.mister-auto.de/oelwanne/bolk/bol-e061005/
@@elzrinja365 there are modyfied at the market. Like this one from Klokkerholm with partnumber 1251335
@@mercedesbenz9956 Thanks for info, I didnt know for that brand.
Btw I think this is the real part number 5507476
Ok finally finished the sump job thank mate all your support !...
Well done!
@@moremolecules 3 days took thinking doing ERG next ? Not confident though ?
@@philipmaguire9209 Not that difficult, only difficulty is taking the bracket that holds the EGR to the cooler. Best done with the tool, otherwise is difficult. Replace with a screwdriver bracket, much is easier later on.
Best tutorial in CZcams for this
this video arrives 2 days late,the plastic tip of the oil gauge broke inside the strainer and there was no way to get it out so I had to remove the sump and the strainer, all done last weekend ,thanks 😊 anyway
Unfortunately I have no oil gauge, although would love to have one. I suspect that it measures it somehow as I get oil indication before I start the car. Good that you have it sorted!
torx size for strainer removal?
Excellent ! Thanks ! Too bad your replacement housing does not have the flat bottom to correct the defect of the original. Thanks to you for your video. :)
Yes, I did not think about this too much and I should have bought the flatter bottom sump.
Has your sump replacement been a success just about to do the exact same, good uploads by the way and subbed👍
Yes, it has been great since I did it. No leak, nothing.
Good video, HOW-to, but, actually I don't understend WHY somebody will change the oil sump?!?
Hi Predrag, if you are replacing the turbo the oil sump needs to be taken off and the oil pickup replaced or at least cleaned or inspected. There was a comment yesterday that the oil gauge tip was broken in the oil pickup and there is nothing else one can do.
One additional reason, when the old gasket leaks oil, it could be an MOT failure and the sealant needs to be re-applied.
As a matter of fact all those reasons. Are no reason to change it! LOL 😂 Admittedly you changed the oil sump, because you wanted to. Surely not because it was needed. Fact is that without damage, the "old" oil sump would out live the car itself.
Just like Predrag I never seen anyone change an oil sump exclusively for the "look" of it. After all this is a Peugeot Partner, not exactly a concours classic vehicle.
BTW for what its worth. Tip: In most cases you can retrieve the oil dipstick broken tip, from these engines. With a vacuum cleaner (Hover). Just make sure you empty the oil sump first (for obvious reasons). ;-) And provision some way to later clean the vacuum pipes/hose. Or in other words, don't use your wife's best vacuum cleaner. A workshop vacuum will extend your survival possibilities...LOL 😂
Cheers
@@crpth1 If you check any PSA guide on turbo replacement, it is always recommended to replace the sump with the oil pickup. It is a potential reason for a turbo failure. It was also leaking. The cost of the sump is nearly nothing and I get the benefit to know that there is no sludge or anything inside. Now, of course one can leave as it is and it is a Peugeot Partner, but I intend to drive this car quite a few more miles.
Super ,amesing work!!!
Hi just removed the oil sump and found pick up pioe damaged snapped off.. and strainer too I will replace asap however can you tell me if its a allen key needed to remove it plus size . Thankyou p.s did not need to renew the down pipe blessing in it. Peugeot estate 1.6 2005.. . Hdi ..
For the strainer/pickup, depending on the model, mine were simple scre rather than allen key, but depends on what is there.
@@moremolecules sorted it torx.. one last question please! There's aluminum pipe on the pick up oil is it part of dip stick tube?
Hi what will be the torque on bolts for the oil pick up? As seen on the video it is clean and he did not changed it.
Oil pickup bolts are 10Nm +/- 1Nm. Yes, mine was clean and I did not change it.
I follow from Turkey, your videos are very good. How did you get the oil catch pipes? And can you make a video about the open air filter?
Hi Ulas, I designed the oil catch can pipes myself, I have a few videos of how I did it, have a look at my oil catch can videos.
I am not too sure what you mean by "open air filer".
You need to remove the muffler to remove the oil pan ?
You do not need to, but it makes things easier. I was replacing the turbo, so it made sense to do it in one go.
I've just started this now but the rain is coming...deffo need to remove the muffler on the Berlingo 2006 to get to that difficult bolt or by hand and very strong hands to crack the nut
I managed to replace the sump without taking enything else off, but I was strugling with putting new one sump on without touching sealant, because there is a bolt standing out just above that flexible pipe.
Mine is dent peugeot 307hdi 2007 estate getting pressure oil Sump plus stop light strangly oil looks OK dip stick ?
It could be that the pressure oil sensor is faulty or if the oil filter was recently changed it was not fitted properly and there is a bit of loss of pressure. If I were you, I would replace the filter again or open it and screw it back on again. You need to drop the oil before hand and either put new oil/filter or put the old oil back in.
@@moremolecules recently dented sump so I ordered new one
I have a broken dipstick ... Is it easy to remove the dipstick tube ? Thanks
Not an easy way to do it. You need to drop the sump and take out the broken parts and then re-seal the sump. Dipstick tube itself is integral to the engine, no way to remove the dipstick tube itself.
@@moremolecules I I have successfully removed a broken dipstick using this method: 1) Remove the oil from the engine and keep it clean for refilling. 2) Let the oil sum open from the bottom with the bolt removed. 3) Connect with adhesive tape a small diameter tube between your vacuum cleaner and the dipstick tube on the top of the engine. 4) Power on the vacuum cleaner and the broken part of the dipstick will come !
Hi curious to no if my Peugeot 307 1.6 estate 2005 sump has to have a Gasket ? Or can I just use silicone bond only ? Thank-you
As far as I know (could be wrong), all 1.6HDi (92bhp) sumps are just with silicone only, no gasket.
@@moremolecules Thanks so it will be solicon.. can't bd bothers old idea gasket ring
How do I remove downpipe ? Access to bot
@@philipmaguire9209 There is upper part (front), middle (intermediate) section and rear exhaust. The middle section has a kink. They all are connected with the same bracket. Basically you have to remove the bolts and can be taken out. If bolts are rusty and cannot be removed, you need to cut them out, no other option.
How did you take off that part of the exhaust?
As shown in the video or maybe I missed the question. I had another series of videos changing the turbo, so I removed it again, maybe it is better shown there. Which minute in the video is that?
Sussed it out how to remove that nut behind down pipe remove clip joins the pipe to flexi going give it a bash morning Hope I can get pan out ? Pipe there ?
Good luck 🙂
@@moremolecules mission achievement regardless of upper pipe removed ! Result was a damaged strainer and pipe of somewhat ?
@@philipmaguire9209 Well done!
its too much silicone. But film is good
Thank you, next time I'll know.
Someone please tell me what is this stupid small pipe that comes from the oil dipstick what is her function
Which pipe if that? There are no other pipes coming from the oil dipstick, the oil dipstick is kind of on its own.
Does anyone know what torque the bolts for the oil pick pipe are to be done up to please?
If this is about the turbo oil pickup, see my 5 videos on replacing it, the torque settings and how to do it is explained/given there: czcams.com/video/Q7S0qDBo314/video.html . This is the first video, but I think in the second or third they are all given.
Thanks for the reply. It's the oil pick up in the oil sump. You clean it in this video but the one on this car was too blocked so I bought another one.
The new one comes with three bolts with thread locker on but I'm worried about getting the torque right as it's plastic.
Thanks
@@TheFlibNet Sorry for the late reply. It is 10Nm +/- 1Nm. Hope that helps and good luck
Thanks. The oil pick up went back on okay but the oil pan was a bit of a disaster.
I messed up the settings on the torque wrench and accidentally tightened the oil pan bolts to 28nm. Which inevitably led to one of them snapping.
So I don't know what to do now. Doesn't bode well for the rest of the turbo replacement.
@@TheFlibNet I have snapped quite a few bolts like that during all my working on the car. I always thought that some bolts are not tight enough and went on to tighten them even more and they snap.
Do not worry too much abou this. Remove the sump and start again with new bolts, same diameter/thread. Clean it well and do according torque. The bolt thread that is left you should be able to remove with pliers.
It should be alright with the rest, if I can manage and I do not really have that much experience myself and thought myself how to do it, you can do it as well.
Somehow your comment about the manifod torque dissappeared, which bolts are these? Are those the turbo manifold bolts?
Only 12Nm torque?
Yes, that is correct, it is a small bolt.
Too much silicone !!
Ha, I thought so, but the original had even more silicone on!
@@moremolecules The old one might have been removed in the past as the factory wouldn't have that much on there.
When cutting the nozzle for the RTV I cut it at an angle to help apply it so it'll be a thinner film not a long blob.
@@DevinderAthwal306 Good tips. Yes, it was probably previous owner or something, way too much before, not that I did not put as much, haha. Not too sure if I cut it at an angle.
Do we need to remove downpipe exhaust
You do not need to if you can get the sump off. I found that I needed to remove it as access was much easier. The middle part has flexi, so easier to move around, but the upper part is rigid and obstructs accessing the bolts to get the sump off.
Unless you mean the very downpipe, which you do not need to remove. The middle part connection is flexi, so one just moves it aside slightly.
@@moremolecules Upper part diwn pipe I am struggerling with obstructing bolt if I do remove down pipe how please ?
@@philipmaguire9209 You do not want to remove the middle part, it is difficult as it goes inside the cabin. The one bolt, you can perhaps cut it and get a new bracket. They rust pretty quick anyway.
@@moremolecules The bracket that holds down Pipe to the cabin or flexi bracket ?
@@philipmaguire9209 The first bracket that holds the upper part to the flexi. The flexi can stay in place and you only kind of move it aside to access the bolts. It is a bit in the way, but because it is somewhat flexible you can slightly push it aside.
Drill machine would be match easier and faster.
Are you working from a pit ?
Hi Flicki, no, unfortunately I do not have one.