Guide to Climbing Shoes | Louis Parkinson
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- čas přidán 25. 11. 2021
- Choosing the right pair of climbing shoes can make a huge difference to how we climb, and there's a lot of shoes out there! In this video Louis breaks down the different styles of shoes, their features & what they're good for, to help you figure out which shoes are right for you!
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All the climbing shoes I have ever owned have been better at climbing than I am. Sad but true.
Metallica reference??
@@goliath9962 sadly not. Which song? I may adopt it as my anthem 🤣
@@richardbradley1532 sad but true such a good song
@@goliath9962 will check it out
This is actually a very well done basic guide , covering the most simple things in a very easy to understand and quick way. Not very deep in detail , and mono brand , but I would say the advice is quite sound and on point for people looking to buy their first shoes . Nice job!
I would also add - for absolute beginners, it's best to go with a comfortable pair of shoes - most foot holds you'll be using on easy climbs are fairly big anyway! Better to be comfortable at first, then size down as your feet get more used to climbing and wearing climbing shoes.
Most definitely!!
Honestly that comment about how comfortable or uncomfortable the right shoe is supposed to be was really helpful. Thank youn!! 😁
My first pair of climbing shoes were probably too big. After they broke in there was a gap from the front of the shoe to my toes. But still I managed to get up to a v7 in them. And I felt secure on the wall even doing slabs with small footholds. Comfort is far more important when your new to climbing, than any gains you may get in foot security from tight shoes. Another great thing about comfortable shoes; you can focus more easily on good technique, instead of powering through a painful climb.
That is to say, I agree with this video.
respect on progressing to V7 faster than you could wear out a single pair of shoes. thats some pretty fast progress!
@@benja_minthe also could’ve just worn them down terribly but didn’t replace them. Which is also commendable and impressive
Love the idea behind these videos, and also love the presentation! There is definitely a need for this in the community.
Thank you!
This is such a great video. No bias, no fluff, just straight up quality insight. Thanks!
Very solid guide! I went straight into a pair of Solutions as my first ever shoe and although they are not the most comfortable pair you can get, they felt absolutely incredible on my feet and gave me a sense of security that I didn't experience in other more "beginner" friendly pairs. I'd say that, besides comfort, ensuring a snug and even fit is the most important thing. If your wallet allows and the fit feels nice, don't be afraid to go for an advanced pair of shoes right out of the gate!
Thats the high quality content i like. Good info, no bullshit, straight to the point. Very informative and i like the way you explain. THANKS !
I'd like to add, as a shoe/boot/climbing shoe fitter, the materials the shoe is made of make a big difference in the fit, feel, and performace of the shoe too. For example the newer knit style shoes, like the zenit shown, are really nice and breathable, but are incredibly unforgiving in the way they fit as they don't stretch and mold to the foot as easily and can produce more painful pressure points than either a real or synthetic suade.
I love that you prefaced the video by saying that any climb is possible in any shoe. I've seen beginners ponder and philosophize about *the perfect shoe* to climb, to start with, for style x and whatnot. Seriously, buy a pair that fits you well and feels comfortable and work on your technique and strength, buying 3 different pairs of shoes for your first year of climbing your indoor walls should really not be a priority...
Exactly!! Everyone is different so you've gotta find whats good for you
Thanks for this. Covered the basics. Looking forward to your vid beyond the basics of these shoes. Would be perfect if you could show in the Gym where you would recommend specific shoes and how one may compensate the downsides of certain models with good technique. Possible?
Things I also found out to be helpful and rather important to me:
-sturdy velcro straps (some climbing shoes come with laughable flimsy straps, like the orange/white one in the middle here and friends of mine have ripped those)
-sturdy put-on-loop construction (some shoes may actually rip when pulling too hard on their loops/when they get older)
-easy to re-sole construction (well constructed climbing shoes can easily be re-soled 2-3 times to save money and brake in time for new shoes)
-full rubber heel (makes hooking more secure, needs to fit more exact tho)
bro just say what model it is no need to beat around the bush
@@jacobrohr5903no, he does not necessarily mean a definit shoe. Just to bring some examples: Scarpa Instinct, La Sportiva Solution, Skwama, Moura, Red Chili Sensor, 5.10 Hiangle and Hiangle Pro, Lots of So Ill Modells...
You uploaded this like 12 hours after I bought my pair of skwamas, I was dying for a video like this!!
This is a very sensible and no nonsense approach to selecting your climbing shoes 👍👍👍. Most other videos were either confusing or came with an agenda to promote a certain brand.
Hope more people find this video before they start buying the wrong (and probably unnecessarily expensive) shoes.
Fantastic and concise video thank you so much! Going to buy my first pair tomorrow :D
Saying the Skwamas are harder to smear in blew me away.
They're easily one of the softer shoes on the market.
Yeah, I thought that was surprising. In my experience, Skwamas are great for smearing.
@@trackstarwang Only shoes I've used that are better for smearing are the zenists.
They make even a roof a potential foothold they smear so well.
I was so happy to hear that! Marketed as soft I find the Skwama everything but not soft. Try and Scarpa Veloce, Drago oder Evolv Zenist and tell me afterwards the Skwama is a soft shoe. ;)
@@dirkh2122 bro what ? skwamas are vv soft & the fact that a handful of softer high-end shoes exist doesnt change that lol
@@rasmusblomberg7373 It's all subjective.One can easily turn your argument upside down: just because there is a handful of stiffer shoes are out there doesn't make them soft. To note, the Scarpa Veloce is marketed as beginner, not high end. I love them because they are soft and comfortable.
This vid calls the Skwama stiff and that's how they feel to me. If you find them soft, that's just perfect.
I went to the local shop and they only had one pair of shoes in my size :( I actually really like them, so it worked out okay :)
Covers alot of usefull information in a short video! Super well done.
Thaaank you!
Good technique in bad shoes beats bad technique in good shoes!
Great quote
My first upgrade shoes (from beginners) were so tight i developed some pretty bad foot pain…just all the time. Like not even just in climbing shoes! But my climbing performance totally went up! But then i bought more specific bouldering shoes and went even tighter! Aaand my performance went mostly down…pain unbearable! So i got the same pair of shoes a half size up. Performance increase! But foot pain galore, still. SO, I got some mad rock drones now where my toes only sliiiightly curl aaaand my performance (and trust!!) in the shoes has gone through the roof.
Really wish i would not have gone so aggressive so quickly as i feel it hurt my technique (and feet) for such a long time.
This is amazing! Wish this video was out when I started climbing! :)
I would have liked a little more info about split to full sole shoes, as I think many people dont realize the huge difference that can make on the wall. You mentioned flexible and stiff, but that mostly comes from the split/full sole and as someone who only had full sole so far and tried split soles once, I can say that especially harder climbs where you have to use your feet as hand replacements (toehooks, heelhooks) the split soles just SHINE.
I think if you are really climbing often and are 1+ years in, get at least 1 split sole and 1 full sole shoe for different climbs.
For me the lace shoes are the only possible solution! My feet are such a unique shape.
I am also an ex-dancer, so i can wear my aggressive, 2 sizes smaller lace shoes for four hours easily. So no fuss about taking them off and putting them on again :D
Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🙏 . I'm currently in "bad footwork in really-really tight shoes" :D Thinking of getting relaxed slippers - footwork would still be awful, but at least I'll feel comfort :)
Am I the only one who buys normal life shoes a size too small to fit perfectly without any air pockets and realize few days later that those rules apply only to climbing shoes?
Been there done that, for about a year actually. It was a mystery to me as to why my shoes were wearing out so fast, turns out it was because I sized them like climbing shoes. Bumped up a size and now I've had the same pair of converse for a over a year rather than burning through a pair every 10 weeks.
@@jacechristian8725 bunions through the roof
Ya and get crazy blisters, especially with vans for me.
I use my Cobras for indoor climbing and the testarossas for outdoor climbing.
Hi from France ! I always appreciate the concise style of the videos!
Would it be possible to have a video on the different types of rubbers ? With their characteristics, advantages and disadvantages ?
My first climbing shoes were way too big, my new ones actually hurt and it took a bit to get used to but they’re so much better
just seen this and it all makes sense... I have been climbing for over 20 years now and only just understanding the benefits of the right shoe for the right climb....
Every day is a day to learn!
@@CatalystClimbing this is very true.. I don't know a day where I haven't been climbing and not learnt anything!!
Recently got my first pair of climbing shoes, and I think my history as a pointe dancer clouded my judgement lol. I went half a size up from the pair I tried in store and they still feel very tight. Have cut my toes with my well trimmed toe nails because they’re so snug. Not fun. Will probably get something a bit more sensitive and bendy for my intermediate pair!
Can you make a video about good training techniques and tips on climbing and rest days?
thanks for the video! would you say air gap in the arch of foot near the heel and the shoe is a problem? I am having a hard time finding shoes that are right in the toe box and then also the rest of the shoe.. been trying on many models recently! the described fit (tight, but not painful), no air in the toe box, heel also no air in the back and sides but air near the arch of the foot is best I could find for now..
Imho it’s not the technical features which makes it the right shoe for you. But the shape. Do you have wide feet? What shape are your toes? Etc.
If you downsize and still got a gap at your small toe, you won’t be able to rotate on your toes.
If you find a shoe of a brand that fits, they usually have a code for that shape written in the shoe, use that shape if you want other features.
Yeh but Louis gets his shoes from LaSpo so I don't think he's gonna be emphasising the need to shop around brands too much.
You are absolutely right though. I've had the most success when I've just said 'screw it I'm going to to try on shoes from every brand that I possibly can'. What I would say is that you just know when you out on a show that's right for you, it will just feel right.
Especially true at lower/mid grade, chose comfort over performance, the gain is not worth the pain.
Good video!
Have you considered doing a video on shoe repair/maintenance? You touched on soft rubber wearing faster and every climber will reach the point where the tip of the toe wears down to nothing. What then? Repair or replace?
Resole before those wear to nothing. After a couple months in the shoe, start checking the top of the toe cap and front point of the shoe for less resistance, where the rubber has worn thin. When there is little resistance, stop and get them resoled by a certified resoler, not a cobbler, and you can have shoes last many many years at a high performance level. If you wait until the rubber is through and you can see the upper, then a repair has to be done to the rand which will decrease the lifespan of the shoe to maybe a couple good years. If you are through the upper, few people will bother trying to fix.
Far more friendly on the wallet, but far more ecologically friendly as well, especially if the resoler is local. Chucking shoes into a landfill because you tried to eek another session out is bad.
I love your videos
Excellent advice! I would also advise new climbers to keep a comfortable pair handy for when they get tighter, more technical shoes. Too much time exclusively in tight shoes during their break-in can adversely affect the fun factor in climbing.
Great video thanks. How soon into my climbing journey should I consider upgrading from rental shoes to getting my own?
If you’re sure you want to pursue climbing, it’s cheaper in most gyms to get your own pair asap!
@@nicoledommaschk737 I got my own shoes and very glad I did. La Sportiva tarantula boulder.
Got la sportiva Tarantula 14 over 13.5 but doesn't grip enough for me being 220lb. Got the 13.5 on sale at trail hut and would like to get the black x version as tarantula is red x
Watching after already buying a pair 😅
Hiya I got my fisrt climbings shoes, they are scarpa man's velocity and street shoe size is 42.5 and Scarpa's 43 my toes are downwards cramped little bit i can't fully extend them and i think that's better to put force but not great for beginner climbers. Do you think i should still keep it or change it for bigger size. thank you
Which is the equivalent version for Phyton shoes for woman? I could only find this shoes in men version, I am a short climber so that makes sense I tend to use this kind of shoes, some suggestions would be very appreciated 😊
Skwama and Theory for life.
got me a pair 2 months ago. love love love
¨Great vid ! Just a question. How would you use testarosa shoes ? I mean, they seem super stiff, and agresivelly, but they don't have that sharp beak for overhangs and laces are less than ideal for bouldering as well. Cheers
Testarosa's are known for being a sport climbing shoe. They would excel at technical vert to overhung sport routes. The lack of the beak makes them more comfortable for being on the wall for long periods of time.
I think you can use these for crack climbing too?
@@generalkdi definitely, like Louis mentions in the video, you can use any shoe for anything...It's just a matter of what works best or personal preference.
@@generalkdi Testarossas are probably the worst shoe out there for crack climbing. They have a very high big toe angle and are constucted in a way to maximize the power that can be applied to small holds. While other shoes do this also very well like Katana laces f.e., the testarossas are soft enough to be sensitiv and allow you to grab holds in steep terrain. The downside of this design is that they are not very comfortable when sized correctly. They are indeed a very spezialized shoe that exels at vertical to steep terrain with techy small footholds. For cracks you need stiff shoes with a flat toe profile like TC Pros or Five Ten Niads or something similar.
Man, where was this video when I decided to downsize 4 EU sizes from my street size for my Instinct VS's
I use la sportiva tarantulas at the moment but they are wearing down and I’m looking to upgrade. I’ve tried a few brands but only la sportiva seem to fit my feet. I really like slab climbing and need to improve on overhangs, do you think skwama’s will be good enough for tough slab climbs or are they heavily specialised for overhangs?
Try them on in a shop! Skwamas are a great shoe, but they don't fit me well at all (and most sportivas fit me quite well). The only way to find the correct shoe it to try on as many as possible
If the skwamas fit you well and feel good, get them. They'll be great on both overhang and slab - they're supposed to be really sensitive, which is ideal on slabs. No personal experience with them, but looking at their shape and description, there's no reason why they would be better for one or the other.
It’s super hard to recommend a specific shoe to someone on the internet. But I had the skwamas for years and was pretty happy. When my local shop didn’t have them when I needed a new pair, I tried black diamond shadow and they are just perfect for me. Especially the heel box fits me way better and the rubber ist super soft - so great feeback. If you get the chance, just try them in a shop.
I just got aggressive downturned shoes after a year of climbing with moderate downturned shoes. Climbed for 1.5 hours today in the new shoes and boy. Either shoe sizes change from one style to another, or they are really supposed to break in
Did you get them fitted in a shop?
Both.
@@benschuster9792 I got advice from people at REI. But not fitted per say.
My toes hurt when wearing my climbing shoes for more than 5 minutes, and after each climbing session a dark spot developed on the toenail on both big toes. Are my shoes too small?
At some point i started hearing "wubba" instead of "rubber" and now i can't unhear it.
Thanks for another great video!
I’m looking to get back into climbing after being away for a few years. Unfortunately, I have Hobbity wide feet and wondered if anyone has suggestions for wider fitting shoes?
I have wide feet too and have found most Scarpa are OK but can't find a heel that fits perfectly. I've got several different pairs but always put the Scapra Helix on as a good all rounder. It's stiff and flat but haven't noticed a problem smearing or on volumes.
For aggressive or moderate shoes? Also you can look up some sizing charts I think from La Sportiva and Scarpa
@@jamesclark6257 Thanks, but I've had little joy with Scarpa's in the past.
@@takuyamatsuda7214 Aggressive. Unfortunately those brands have never been good for me in the past.
@@greydef not too sure then. I’m not too familiar with aggressive shoes of other brands. At least ones that’d fit wider feet. Tenaya is known for comfortable yet aggressive shoes so maybe look there? I think Oasis and Tarifas are aggressive tenaya shoes? From other brands though I’ve heard good things from Phantoms, Drones, Shamans, and Regulus
My first pair of shoes were definetly too big, when i tried to put a heel hook, the shoe slipped out cuz the heel was all air
You aren't by chance sitting at the top of the stairs above the archwall in Harrowall are you?
A very good eye indeed!
Is it just me…I am wondering if you can go bouldering with vibram five finger shoe.
I thought you were being sarcastic when you said 'As you can see, there are a wide range of styles' lol. They all look like very slight variations to me, but I've only just had my first bouldering session
TestaRossas are absolutely killer shoes for the soft sport climbing shoe range.
Testarossa I would not consider soft, but a quite nuanced shoe which is aggressive, flexible, with a structured toe box and uses a stickier rubber, an attempt to blend stiff and soft shoes (the Mago from Scarpa I find superior, made by the same designer). Geniuses are built on the same last and are less structured, but even those are not as soft as say a Chimera.
Definitely almost only in the sport climber bag.
what's your most climbed shoe?
is this guy Rhys Darby's little brother by any chance?
Not sure if anyone gonna read this but I got a question. My heels are smaller (in proportion to my toes) than the average. Right now I have a pair of Katana Lace which are nice cuz I can tighten them, but there's still space. What would be a shoe that can fix that?
im exactly the same with narrow heels & for me two shoes that work pretty well are scarpa drago lv’s & evolv phantom’s.
the phantoms would probably not be an ideal fit for me if not because of the closure system on the shoe, which for me rlly helps with strapping in around the ankle.
all this being said i still feel like i havent found the perfect shoe
I also have very small heels. Maybe try the la sportiva python. I had good experience with them. But be aware, does will stretch a lot, so go atleast 2 sizes smaller. The theory women are also a good choice but maybe a bit expensive.
I have the same problem and have been wearing La Sportiva Pythons for a while now. Their sizing is weird though, I have them in size 40 even though my normal shoes are size 43/44. They fit reasonable well on my heels, I only had issues sometimes when putting a high heel sideways (i.e. when the outside of my heel is on the hold). I recently wore them out though, and have switched to Mad Rock Remora Tokyos in size 42 (shoe sizes are weird). They seem to fit very nice, but I've only climbed in them once so far, so it's too soon to tell if they're actually better.
I have the same problem and have found that the Scarpa line overall has both more shallow and more narrow heels than most other companies. The Boostic is a very comperable replacement to the Katanas for you, I personally love them. Their "LV (low volume)" variants are also mostly lower volume just in the heel, so if you find a shoe that you like and want an even smaller heel, that may be something to look out for. On top of that, scarpa has free return shipping so you can try anything on from home.
Check out Evolv, they have a narrow heel.
Should I wear socks in my shoes?
the type of rock and style of climbing will dictate the shoe. from there focus on finding a shoe within that category that fits your foot the best.
Get a size smaller than your normal walking shoes they said....they are supposed to be tight they said...no we don't have your size just get one smaller they said....last day for 30% off they said...good thing the skwama's look so sexy on my feet cuz I look like a total dingus crawling around the gym in agony
I'd guess you bought them online?
@@benschuster9792 you sir areee correct
Dad material
the solution got the worst heel cup in the game
Facts.
I think the solution just doesn't like your feet
I would also add - for absolute beginners, it's best to go with a comfortable pair of shoes - most foot holds you'll be using on easy climbs are fairly big anyway! Better to be comfortable at first, then size down as your feet get more used to climbing and wearing climbing shoes.