An Absolutely Positively Food-safe Friction Polish
Vložit
- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- Here is how to make your own guaranteed food-safe friction polish!
Links mentioned in the video:
Tried and True Danish Oil
www.triedandtru...
Dapwood Linseed Oil
www.dapwood.com...
A guide to tung oil
www.woodcentral...
Real Milk Paint Pure Tung Oil
www.realmilkpai...
Can't thank you enough for demystifying all these different concoctions of wood finishing products. You've answered many different questions I've had over the years & just never had the time to do all the research required. Very useful information, thanks again!!
Thank you for your nice comments!
In regard to a topcoat over friction polish. I pretty much use all of your methods, but, I top coat with 2 to 3 coats of gloss poly urethane as follows. 70% gloss polyurethane, 15% each thinners and BLO. Awesome finish!!!!
That sounds good. Do you use wax after the friction polish? With the varnish, do you put it on while the work is turning? Or wipe or brush it one after taking it off the lathe?
Instead of BLO or Tung oil, i think you can use walnut oil. I believe Dr. Workshops uses that in replace of the other oils.
+JunkBeGoneNY Thanks for the comment! Yes, I believe I mentioned the "Dr. Workshop" product in one of my videos on friction polish. Walnut oil would probably make the finish smell great, too!
Hi Rick thanks for the mention. When I made mine, I made it from shellac flakes. Since listening to you I have bought ready mixed Zinsser Bulls Eye and will make a new batch shortly. I never knew how much flakes I should add so I just kept adding them until I guessed It was right. Thanks for all your research.
Thanks for commenting, Allan.
Thanks Rick, you certainly put a lot of hard work into this research, two great videos on this topic, thank you very much
Best wishes
Harry
Thanks, Harry
Hi Rick, These have been very interesting videos on polishes and thank you for your time and effort in producing them,here's wishing you, and your family a happy Christmas and new year! Bram.
+Brams shed Thanks for your comments, Bram.
thanks for teaching,i learned again!grtngs!
Thanks for watching my videos and.for commenting, Ben.
You are being very thorough! I like that. Im going to try a friction polish soon! Just a shame stuff is so much more expensive here in the Netherlands.
+Willem Kossen Thank you, Willem.
Thank you for sharing! 🤘👍🏻👊🔥
Thanks for watching, Gary.
I don't use wax after friction pol. I apply first coat of my poly mix while turning about 1000 until i feel some heat. Next day another coat of poly mix. After dry, I part off lathe, funish base. I some time wax if item has been sitting around before sale
Thanks for the info, Shelly. I'd like to find a fast-drying finish I can put on the bowl while it's still on the lathe. I tried lacquer but wasn't too pleased with the results.
Excellent. Will order, test mix. try out and report back here.
By the way: 100% pure ethanol is available (but very expensive) as a lab chemical solvent for chromatography.
Also, the Real Milk Paint website have a natural alternative to denatured alcohol. They call it citrus solvent. Ordered some. will test and report.
Thanks again.
Hi, Raja. I saw the citrus solvent but didn't pay much attention to it. I'd be happy to hear what results you have!
great information but can you put friction polish on after you sanded using a mixture of past wax and mineral oil when sanding
+dac johnson I think you can, but I haven't tried it. In some of the responses I've got on the friction polish videos, some turners have indicated they use an abrasive wax before they put on the friction polish. Since that apparently works, I would think it would also work to put it on over the wax\mineral oil mixture. Let me know if you try it!
on eBay they sell cold pressed flax seed oil (linseed oil) About £6 for 500ml I watch your vids a lot THANKS keep it up (Barry (UK))
Thanks for watching, Barry.
Great information Rick, I'll have to take up the extreme food safe finish at some point, but right now I'm not running to the shop :)
+Yuval Lahav Thanks, Yuval.
Thanks for doing all of that research. I actually believe all finishes are food safe if you let the piece cure for a few weeks.
Yes, I believe you're right about that!
Ok Rick, now we need a video of you making this "all natural" blend as the recipe is going to be different due to having to "cut" the shellac flakes/buttons. If I'm not mistaken you are going to need twice the amount of alcohol for the whole mix. Oh and also, I am using Flaxseed oil (the edible/drinkable purified type) in place of the linseed oil, it's also a drying oil.
webslinger67 Thanks for the tip about flaxseed oil...I hadn't heard of using that.
According to Wikipedia, flaxseed oil _is_ linseed oil. From a marketing standpoint, it's probably better to refer to it as flaxseed oil, for people who don't know that pure linseed oil is edible.
And don't forget to raise the price by $30 so the hippies can really appreciate "organic."
+Josef Roesler You bet! It costs to be "green"!
Great info, Rick!
Thanks!
Thanks for commenting, George.
TFS Rick, from your info and reading the comments it looks like almost any oil can be used! I just thought it was BLO so again TFS, G :)
I'm not sure mineral oil would be useful, but I believe that walnut oil or teak oil or any oil normally used for wood finishing would work. Thanks for watching, Graeme.
Thanks for doing the research on this. Now we will just have to deal with the liquor store workers judging us when we keep going in for supplies. Oh I believe you, you are using it only on your wood turning projects.
Yep. And it's not easy doing any turning after drinking...that is, after mixing up a batch of polish!
rick great tips good job.
Thanks, Robert.
Good video. Having said that, I still think some people make too much of the 'food safe' thing. Of course, I'm married to one of those people - - -
I suspect that it would be prudent to use a neutral spirit when making a food-safe FP - Everclear, or vodka, perhaps. Using something with a distinctive flavor, or mor importantly a strong color could bias the final product.
I agree with you, Louie. I don't use friction polish on any food-use turnings, because I don't think it would hold up very well. I use a wiping varnish (diluted regular varnish) that I'm convinced is food-safe after it cures. But it was brought up in the comments on my poll, and I thought this might address the concerns of some turners.
I was thinking also that a clear alcohol would probably be best.
Thanks for your comments!
Use my poly mix an keep the lathe turning until its dry
I’ll try that out. Thank you.
Any and every finish is food safe after it's completely cured
Yes, it is, or so I’ve heard too. Thanks for watching, Billy.
there are lots of chemicals,so its not food safe
According to the safety data sheets, it is food safe. Thanks for watching, BeQS.