Repair- Mandolin setup tricks
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- čas přidán 2. 07. 2019
- A few tricks that I use for setting up mandolins:
1) Radiusing extreme radius frets.
cutting notches (02:20)
glue tips (02:45)
2) Using the "long" nut technique. (06:26)
spacing between pairs and courses (07:00)
correcting small differences (10:30)
cutting nut slots (14:40)
checking spaces (20:00)
marking the nut sides (23:40)
final check (25:45)
3) Fitting a bridge to the top. (30:30)
stringing up (40:00)
setting intonation of the bridge (45:58)
discussion of unwanted overtones (51:10) - Hudba
Awesome demonstration on getting precise slots. How do you determine the nut layout to begin with (.060 between strings, 0.185 in between courses for this one)?
Previous experience and lots of measurements of other mandolins. You can also do some math...
Set the outer two strings at the distance you want from the edge. Caliper the space between them. Subtract the width of all the remaining strings. Subtract the width you want for distance between sets of strings. Divide the remaining by 3. However.... This method will basically hem in your strings by the outer two and I found it pretty much impossible to set and measure everything so accurately that you end up with the spaces that you want. When I started using the technique of walking the strings across I got much more consistent and accurate results.
To get the string to string measurement, that is, the .060, I basically measured a bunch of mandolins that I thought felt played good and had the feel I wanted.
@@Bryankimsey very helpful, thanks! What about ideal spacing at the bridge? Should the lie of the strings follow the contour of the edge of the fingerboard? Should the width between courses at the nut be the same as at the bridge?
"Ideal" is up to YOU. Some might like it wider, some narrower. I set mine to 0.105" more or less because, again, that's the spacing I've found that I like best.
The purpose of the bridge/saddle is to set the action. Some people follow the radius of the fingerboard and never measure the action of each string. I prefer to set the action where I want it for each pair of strings, directly. Therefore, I measure each string's action at the 12th fret and adjust the saddle accordingly. I like to set the saddle flat (.ie the adjusters at the same height) and then adjust the grooves in the saddle. If the treble side gets too deep then I'll just re-shape the top of the saddle.
The main problem I have is that the top sinks a bit with full string pressure and that influences the final curve of the bridge feet to the top. It is nearly impossible to fit a mandolin bridge perfectly at tension. Good videos!! Thanks for taking the time on these!!
That's why I put a bit of string pressure on it and try to fit it that way. It's still not full pressure, but it does help.
@@Bryankimsey that's about as good as can be done, I've never gotten an arched top bridge to sit truly flat on the top under pressure, the outer ends usually open up to about .003 gap... it doesn't hurt a thing as the feet sit smack dab on the braces!
my mandolin came setup from elderly. however it takes so much pressure to fret esp the bass notes that i have tuned it down a step and am using a capo. should i consider lowering the nut?
You should use the technique I show here and in the guitar setup 101 video to determine whether or not your nut slots are at the correct height. Basically fret between 2-3 and strings absolutely just barely clear fret 1
@10:23 That precision is what's got me saving money to send you my guitar to work on. Why? Because I want it done right. I'm getting ready to scoop & refret my KM-1500. It will get an overall setup as well. I'm considering replacing the stock bridge. Who makes a good vintage style ebony mando bridge?
BTW string spacing definitely makes a difference in my playing. I'm weird. lol On guitar, I actually prefer standard string spacing at the peghead & it doesn't seem to matter at the bridge. I don't know why & it doesn't make any sense to me, but it works for me. A friend of mine is a guitar builder & we've tested it on a couple of the guitars he's built to see if we could pin point the things that improve my accuracy & speed. There is more testing to do, but so far, that's what we've come up with.
What is the width of the neck at the nut on your mandolin? I've got a Sam Bush with almost 1 1/4 at the nut. The strings are really spread out as per the design of that model but I think I'd prefer the courses to be closer and the spaces between the different courses to be wider. I love the neck otherwise. I like your videos and find it calming to watch you work on stuff. .
I have data on 4 mandolins. In order, width at nut, G to e outer width, distance between string pairs (space between the G, for instance), distance between courses (inner G to outer D, edge to edge). All at the nut. Bridge is similar... check the spacing.
Krishot '97- 1.118, 0.983, 0.060, 0.185 (my nut)
Krishot '02- 1.120, 0.968, 0.060, 0.175 (stock)
Krishot '02 - 1.120, 1.000, 0.064, 0.186 (my nut)
Elkhorn '10- 1.110, 0.990, 0.060, 0.192 (my nut, pushed for wide spacing)
Kentucky KM1000- 1.094, 0.896, 0.060, 0.150-0.180 (stock nut)
ALL of the stock nuts had some significant variation in between courses distance- see the KM1000, for instance. The stock Elkhorn varied 0.060" with the G and D's being MUCH closer together than the D/A and A/E. After I made a new nut, there was no more than .005" difference and the Elkhorn REALLY felt better. There's also a few thousandths variation between pairs.. from .066" to .060", but pretty close. Doesn't hurt to give the bass strings a little more room than the trebles, but I don't like it the other way around.
I'm familiar with the Bush- one of my favorite mandolins, sound-wise- and I think I'd have to make a new nut for it, if I owned one.
Thanks for the comprehensive reply. My Sam Bush has more variance between the strings and courses. I've looked at every photo I can find of the nut on this model and they all seem to look like mine so I guess it's a design thing.
Nut 1.24
String width at nut 1.0"
G 0.09
G to D 0.134
D 0.1
D to A 0.168
A 0.94
A to E 0.151
E 0.10
For me, the outer A and inner E are the ones that are too close. I can feel that A almost any time I'm on the E. It makes it feel like the E is falling off the neck when it absolutely isn't anywhere near the edge.
Yup.... a new nut could make a big difference. It's HARD to get them super exact, though. I can't!! I can get them _better_ but not exact. Coming up with the "long nut" technique has REALLY helped, though.
I have a few question regarding fixing my mandolin. It’s a Fender FM52 e (I think). How can I get in touch with you?
I'm not taking work. You can ask right here and maybe someone else will benefit from the discussion.