You got my book! Thanks--I really hope you found it useful! For sight adjustment, there's an entire thread on the British Militaria Snider forum about it, and Rob Enfield discusses it in one of his Snider videos (YT won't let me put links on here, unfortunately). Some guys solder a blade on top of the front sight, others make a hose-clamp gizmo that clamps on the barrel, and Rob has soldered a small plate against the rear sight notch that has a V which is in the correct spot. As to shooting to the right, on p. 88 of my book I talk about this. If you look at the wind allowance chart on that page, you'll see that there are two different charts, one for a right wind and one for a left wind. The reason for that is that the rifling on the Snider naturally sends the bullets right at longer ranges, so you have to make less allowance for wind when it comes from 3:00, so there's always going to be some right drift. But I think getting a different bullet--as you say, the .600 X-Ring is pretty popular for this--will make a difference by making it more consistent. It's really great to see someone else shooting the Snider!
I cannot help you with the Snyder but I wanted to let you know that your channel has enabled me to make my own decent black powder which I have shot in my Trapdoor Springfield and Martini-Henry to great success at least as far as velocity goes (I'm getting right around 1300 fps on each). I have not yet had the chance to take them out to a longer range to see how the accuracy holds up. Thank you very much for your excellent channel - especially the tutorials on making BP.
Just watched "Four Feathers" again last night. Great scene when they made first contact with the Sudanese Mahadi forces. Sniper in the ville had a Snider. The whole movie was really tight in terms of uniforms, gear, and weapon systems. That Snider might not be putting out Rem 700 sniper level accuracy, but if you've got a few hundred guys making it rain out there it's gonna be real uncomfortable.
Those were common in the gunshops around these parts about 40 years ago but I haven't seen many lately, mind you I haven't been looking for them either. Wouldn't mind finding an old Martini to make a custom rifle out of. 👍✌
Up here in Canada you can trip over them pretty much. A lot of them are ones sold as surplus 100 or so years ago a lot of cut down for-ends like mine to make a handy hunting rifle.
I shot the X-ring services bullet for a few years and it shot decently well out of my Mk2 and my carbine, but I sat down one day and thought about it. The long rifles usually have a 1:72 twist rate (P53) unless it's a Mk3 then it's usually 1:48 (maybe 1:42? My memory is clouded here). The unfortunate reality is that at the velocity the 577 works at, in regards to the twist rate, the 530XR is just a little too long. I had Tom at Accurate cut me a mold similar to the other one Martin offers, but it's 440grs and shorter, it's more like a button head. They drop at .601 and out of both rifles they'll shoot 1 ragged hole at 50 yards, and at 100 yards I can ding a 6" pie plate with boring regularity. The shorter bullet co-operates better with the slower twist. One other thing I'd recommend too is dropping your powder charge. I've tried higher charges of 70grs of more and the accuracy drops off significantly. Just seems like no matter what, the powder we get (swiss or schuetzen) still doesn't have the moisture content of the original British fine rifle powder. I find my best accuracy in that 60-62gr range, and just using C.O.W. to take up the extra space. I hunt with my sniders so I use my 577 seating die to put a mild roll crimp on the button heads to hold them in place. Good luck!
Many people believe that the modern powders are too low in moisture but I don’t think that’s the case anymore. The modern black powder lubes use waxes and greases in their formulas and they work well for GG target shooters that use some type of fouling control between shots. The Sharps factory lube was 2 parts spermaceti to 1 part bees wax, a oil based lube. Spermaceti is generally not available anymore and applications that use it have switched to jojoba oil which is a liquid wax similar to spermaceti. Using this lube allows for multiple shots while still maintaining excellent accuracy with no active fouling control.
Some of the hollow base bullets used a plug made of iron or wood to help consistently expand the skirt of the bullet to improve accuracy. Not sure if this will help but I found it interesting.
I shoot something way different, Pedersoli Sharps. I have only fire formed my brass once and never sized them since. With a single shot you can get away with this no problem. Had a friend, deceased now, who had an original .577 of some sort, I wasn't into old guns and or black powder then. He did 2 things I considered strange, but worked for him. Use standard pistol primer and put a dot of typing paper over the flash hole, don't remember his loading but it was rough on the shoulder.
I shoot a Snider but mine is commercial aka a "volunteer". The chamber is a little tighter than a military rifle meaning the largest bullet i can chamber is .595 so i don't have the option for Martyn's mould. I'm only shooting on my club's 50 yard range so .595 round ball works quite well. The mistake most Snider shooter make is treating like some kind of muzzle loader, that is, using an undersized hollow based soft lead bullet. Treat like a normal BP cartridge rifle, flat based, over bore size hard cast bullet, the original bullet designer Metford got it wrong and the bullet went through several design changes to get it to work better. Consider bullet expansion takes place before the bullet starts moving when the bullet is still held by the modern brass case and not like the original case of a coil and a half of very thin brass. Tip, try using a piece of those expanded corn starch packing peanuts, no weighing and they easily compress to fill the space. And yes mine shoots to the right.
Well, you have to consider period correct drill. The brit experience was mostly "mass of dopes in lines firing on opposing mass of dopes in lines", with not a whole heap of long range individual target work. They were also using fairly pristine sniders, not 150 year old ones, plus a load worked up for those baby howitzers, lol. Sure, you had to range qualify, but the real world only really asked for "make it rain lead Robin eggs in that bit of acreage the fellows in the other uniforms are cluttering up right now". Aim at their belt buckle at 188 yards would seemingly accomplish that, especially if you just got in the habit of shooting toward the dope 1 left of straight ahead. Somewhere around 250 to 300 it would be point of aim, elevation wise. It'd be a fair piece before you had to start aiming over their heads. Sure, certainly not 7mm Weatherby mag ballistics, but hardly tossing rocks either, lol
Snider accuracy can be frustrating. I made a removable front sight from copper pipe and a hose fastener. It's not pretty, but it works and does not permanently alter the Rifle. It raises the front sight higher to lower the POA to 50-100 yds. I have also made a similar one for my .43 Argentine RRB Rifle. Old military rifles were usually sighted for 300 yds. at the lowest setting. I have photos I can send to an email address.
I also use the x ring mould and it certainly makes a big difference. I also run 3f and a much lighter charge that seems to improve accuracy a lot. Brazing a brass plate on the rear sight to adjust windage, as well as a brass piece, to make the front blade higher seems the best way to go in my experience.
Fun video! You must pay your spotters a big lunch, bc their excitment is rather exuberant! I agree with your front sight solution. Dovetail and blade it…and twist your rifle a titter more to the left when squeezing the trigger
Too light a break of the trigger causes it to move too slow or too little before the halfcock notch comes up to snag the trigger sear. I had this happen more than once. My Pedersoli lost the halfcock notch entirely because it impacted the trigger sear after I stoned the surfaces. Went from extremely gritty 15lb pull to a 5lb glass rod break (bench rest guys know the glass rod reference) and the trigger just wouldn't move far enough fast enough to clear. So replacement parts were ordered. Tuning the replacement to reduce the halfcock notch by more than half saw to the fix before installing. The half cock obviously still works but isn't slamming into the trigger sear. It's a pain in the ass to go through all that. I don't hear gunsmiths mention halfcock notch impacts from lightened trigger pulls and stoned sears. I've seen very expensive guns, in the order of $20,000 guns suffer halfcock notch damage because the owner or even the maker didn't account lock time. Shit happens. Sometimes making and tuning gun locks is more art than science.
My idea is to weld a weaver rail onto a reciever and put a 32x16 scope on it - problem solved ;) Cutting dovetail is good idea, because it is quite easy to make verticaly adjustable frontpost (screwed into frontsight base) - for example metric M3x0,35 (sorry for metric but I am a normal guy) - 3mm diameter (0,118") with 0,35mm (0,014") lead. Butt, welding a rail is better idea ;)
Just a tip to share when your testing a hammer on a bare nipple put a rubber faucet washer over the nipple that way your not peening it over just saves the life of it as much as possible.
It’s not a nipple like a black powder nipple. It’s a nipple that has been bored out to retain the spring loaded firing pin. So the hammer is primarily striking the spring loaded firing pin.
Great channel, really like what you're doing. Du you have some load data for Trail Boss for 577 snider and 577/450 MH? Are you using some filler in those cases with Trail Boss? Greetings from Norway 🇳🇴
Cool video The way that thing kicks I would not shoot that rifle by remote control from the next County ! Curious whether you have a Snyder rifle ? Lotta History behind it and I personally think it was a much better rifle than the Springfield 1873. If you have one that would make for an interesting video as well.
the problem with old guns like this is barrel steel and how it wears!! it's hard to match a bullet to the barrel because the different steels they used over production wear different! one might wear to.579 and another to .582 and so on!
Personally I’d skip the sizing die after converting the 24ga. I’d go for a shorter conical 440-480gr or so. I’m going to give the lee .58 REAL bullet a try one of these days might end you lapping out the bands. Most of these guns shoot high check British militaria forums for some reversible modifications to the sights.
You and capandball make some good content about muzzleloaders and antique arms but in very different approaches. I know this is a tall order, but would you consider looking at the henry single shot .45-70? Aside from that, this video was very entertaining and fresh compared to the SEA of videos of blowing watermelons up and Lucas Botkin type high speed shooting... I also wanted to ask, what is your most modern firearm that you own?
Honestly what I'd like to have is a GIANT Keith SWC bullet that would be like the 260 grain 45 Long Colt bullet just scaled up to 59 cal. The Snider acts like a giant pistol bullet, why not treat it like one.....LOL As far as keeping something original is concerned I would only worry about that if it was a Short Rifle or a rifle in really nice condition. One of those from Afghanistan I would probably JB weld a Red Dot onto and call it a day.
You slipping into "BritishMuzzleloaders" bout made me spit my coffee. Great video as per usual. You're a persistent f'er you'll get it dialed in... How is the crown on the barrel? Do the groups shift any with powder charge? (sometimes it is easier to just bring the group towards the sights) And because of the vintage, can you confirm that the barrel is truly straight? Dropped off wagon/squished by horse/etc.
For the sights I've seen a lot of crazy ideas on a site called British Military Forum but I don't know if they really work. I am thinking about installing a peep sight on one of my Sniders , a Williams sight or something like this but I don't have the sight yet so I don't know if it works.
Wait. Was that a slight flinch there at about 0:29 on your misfires? No judgment here -- I get them all the time with my flintlocks & sometimes even just a .22 if I'm being too lazy. You're still a better shooter than I am.
I would have adjusted the sights the second I knew for sure there the bullet was landing. Then dial the sights in to see how close a five shot group is. By the way dang good shooting.
my martini henry carbine can shoot MOA up to 200 yrds.... i got lucky it had a sub caliber insert, leaving the original rifling pristine. can't hit anything after 300 my eyes ain't what they used to be..
Have you slugged the barrel at all and how is the crown the crown will have you shooting off the crown is sometimes over looked it will give you bad accuracy if not right
Puts out a solid whack. You still think a larger bullet, or are you happy withe progress?. My order for custom molds have been both increased, and has been temporarily set back as I have acquired a new project for my single shot frames. It will be another rechamber.
Question for you. On your black powder ballmill- what size pvc vessel length n diameter and what size and quantity of ball do you use? Thank you in advance!!!
@@Everythingblackpowder what size balls... and how many. I want to buy brass in the right size n quantity due to one of your other videos... great channel!
Dude, I can't hit target at 18 yards, so 180 is quite far away so next time can you just match for few seconds it by red arrow? I'm blind no glasses no target recognition ;)
I shoot a 22cal break barrel air rifle at a 16inch steel disc at 165yds that is similarly exciting as black powder long range shooting. The struggle is real when you extend the limits of your weapons. Good shooting
What you have to do is, screw your shootin’ eye in a little to the right. That’ll bring point of impact to the left. Consult your ophthalmologist.🙄………..🥸👍
You got my book! Thanks--I really hope you found it useful! For sight adjustment, there's an entire thread on the British Militaria Snider forum about it, and Rob Enfield discusses it in one of his Snider videos (YT won't let me put links on here, unfortunately). Some guys solder a blade on top of the front sight, others make a hose-clamp gizmo that clamps on the barrel, and Rob has soldered a small plate against the rear sight notch that has a V which is in the correct spot. As to shooting to the right, on p. 88 of my book I talk about this. If you look at the wind allowance chart on that page, you'll see that there are two different charts, one for a right wind and one for a left wind. The reason for that is that the rifling on the Snider naturally sends the bullets right at longer ranges, so you have to make less allowance for wind when it comes from 3:00, so there's always going to be some right drift. But I think getting a different bullet--as you say, the .600 X-Ring is pretty popular for this--will make a difference by making it more consistent. It's really great to see someone else shooting the Snider!
No I reload for a sharps 45/70 those Italian made rifles I would if I had a 577 rifle
@@skymycat1 I'm not sure I understand how that relates to my comment.
I cannot help you with the Snyder but I wanted to let you know that your channel has enabled me to make my own decent black powder which I have shot in my Trapdoor Springfield and Martini-Henry to great success at least as far as velocity goes (I'm getting right around 1300 fps on each). I have not yet had the chance to take them out to a longer range to see how the accuracy holds up. Thank you very much for your excellent channel - especially the tutorials on making BP.
Glad to hear it. Thank you
Just watched "Four Feathers" again last night. Great scene when they made first contact with the Sudanese Mahadi forces. Sniper in the ville had a Snider. The whole movie was really tight in terms of uniforms, gear, and weapon systems.
That Snider might not be putting out Rem 700 sniper level accuracy, but if you've got a few hundred guys making it rain out there it's gonna be real uncomfortable.
Those were common in the gunshops around these parts about 40 years ago but I haven't seen many lately, mind you I haven't been looking for them either. Wouldn't mind finding an old Martini to make a custom rifle out of. 👍✌
Up here in Canada you can trip over them pretty much. A lot of them are ones sold as surplus 100 or so years ago a lot of cut down for-ends like mine to make a handy hunting rifle.
I shot the X-ring services bullet for a few years and it shot decently well out of my Mk2 and my carbine, but I sat down one day and thought about it. The long rifles usually have a 1:72 twist rate (P53) unless it's a Mk3 then it's usually 1:48 (maybe 1:42? My memory is clouded here). The unfortunate reality is that at the velocity the 577 works at, in regards to the twist rate, the 530XR is just a little too long. I had Tom at Accurate cut me a mold similar to the other one Martin offers, but it's 440grs and shorter, it's more like a button head. They drop at .601 and out of both rifles they'll shoot 1 ragged hole at 50 yards, and at 100 yards I can ding a 6" pie plate with boring regularity. The shorter bullet co-operates better with the slower twist.
One other thing I'd recommend too is dropping your powder charge. I've tried higher charges of 70grs of more and the accuracy drops off significantly. Just seems like no matter what, the powder we get (swiss or schuetzen) still doesn't have the moisture content of the original British fine rifle powder. I find my best accuracy in that 60-62gr range, and just using C.O.W. to take up the extra space. I hunt with my sniders so I use my 577 seating die to put a mild roll crimp on the button heads to hold them in place.
Good luck!
I was using 80gr with the .575 bullets because it grouped the best. And I use the turn loosely. The .600 I have loaded with 60, 65 and 70gr
Conversion sniders(mk1 and mk2) have 1 in 78 twists short conicals .590-595 and .600 round balls do well in them.
Many people believe that the modern powders are too low in moisture but I don’t think that’s the case anymore. The modern black powder lubes use waxes and greases in their formulas and they work well for GG target shooters that use some type of fouling control between shots. The Sharps factory lube was 2 parts spermaceti to 1 part bees wax, a oil based lube. Spermaceti is generally not available anymore and applications that use it have switched to jojoba oil which is a liquid wax similar to spermaceti. Using this lube allows for multiple shots while still maintaining excellent accuracy with no active fouling control.
Some of the hollow base bullets used a plug made of iron or wood to help consistently expand the skirt of the bullet to improve accuracy. Not sure if this will help but I found it interesting.
I shoot something way different, Pedersoli Sharps. I have only fire formed my brass once and never sized them since. With a single shot you can get away with this no problem. Had a friend, deceased now, who had an original .577 of some sort, I wasn't into old guns and or black powder then. He did 2 things I considered strange, but worked for him. Use standard pistol primer and put a dot of typing paper over the flash hole, don't remember his loading but it was rough on the shoulder.
Interesting
I shoot a Snider but mine is commercial aka a "volunteer". The chamber is a little tighter than a military rifle meaning the largest bullet i can chamber is .595 so i don't have the option for Martyn's mould. I'm only shooting on my club's 50 yard range so .595 round ball works quite well.
The mistake most Snider shooter make is treating like some kind of muzzle loader, that is, using an undersized hollow based soft lead bullet. Treat like a normal BP cartridge rifle, flat based, over bore size hard cast bullet, the original bullet designer Metford got it wrong and the bullet went through several design changes to get it to work better. Consider bullet expansion takes place before the bullet starts moving when the bullet is still held by the modern brass case and not like the original case of a coil and a half of very thin brass.
Tip, try using a piece of those expanded corn starch packing peanuts, no weighing and they easily compress to fill the space. And yes mine shoots to the right.
The Snider Enfield - A True Stop-Gap Rifle...if that gap was only 100 yards between the troops
Well, you have to consider period correct drill. The brit experience was mostly "mass of dopes in lines firing on opposing mass of dopes in lines", with not a whole heap of long range individual target work. They were also using fairly pristine sniders, not 150 year old ones, plus a load worked up for those baby howitzers, lol. Sure, you had to range qualify, but the real world only really asked for "make it rain lead Robin eggs in that bit of acreage the fellows in the other uniforms are cluttering up right now". Aim at their belt buckle at 188 yards would seemingly accomplish that, especially if you just got in the habit of shooting toward the dope 1 left of straight ahead. Somewhere around 250 to 300 it would be point of aim, elevation wise. It'd be a fair piece before you had to start aiming over their heads. Sure, certainly not 7mm Weatherby mag ballistics, but hardly tossing rocks either, lol
Snider accuracy can be frustrating. I made a removable front sight from copper pipe and a hose fastener. It's not pretty, but it works and does not permanently alter the Rifle. It raises the front sight higher to lower the POA to 50-100 yds. I have also made a similar one for my .43 Argentine RRB Rifle. Old military rifles were usually sighted for 300 yds. at the lowest setting. I have photos I can send to an email address.
Everythingblackpowder@gmail.com
Your a sniper with open sights. I can't hit past 50 yards. Impressive 👍
Thank you
Gotta give you kudos for your dedication to that 577!! Wish I had the resources, space to follow on a “special” ((lack of a better term) project.
Thank you
I also use the x ring mould and it certainly makes a big difference. I also run 3f and a much lighter charge that seems to improve accuracy a lot.
Brazing a brass plate on the rear sight to adjust windage, as well as a brass piece, to make the front blade higher seems the best way to go in my experience.
Excited to see your accuracy results with Martyn’s die!
I have high hopes for it.
Epoxy or solder a taller front sight blade onto the right side of the existing blade. Good shooting!
Very awesome!
I got to Get Out! I got the Itchy Finger and LOVE "That Sound!"
Looking forward to seeing the improvements
I am impressed , very nice
Fun video! You must pay your spotters a big lunch, bc their excitment is rather exuberant! I agree with your front sight solution. Dovetail and blade it…and twist your rifle a titter more to the left when squeezing the trigger
Thank you.
Too light a break of the trigger causes it to move too slow or too little before the halfcock notch comes up to snag the trigger sear.
I had this happen more than once. My Pedersoli lost the halfcock notch entirely because it impacted the trigger sear after I stoned the surfaces.
Went from extremely gritty 15lb pull to a 5lb glass rod break (bench rest guys know the glass rod reference) and the trigger just wouldn't move far enough fast enough to clear.
So replacement parts were ordered. Tuning the replacement to reduce the halfcock notch by more than half saw to the fix before installing.
The half cock obviously still works but isn't slamming into the trigger sear.
It's a pain in the ass to go through all that. I don't hear gunsmiths mention halfcock notch impacts from lightened trigger pulls and stoned sears. I've seen very expensive guns, in the order of $20,000 guns suffer halfcock notch damage because the owner or even the maker didn't account lock time.
Shit happens. Sometimes making and tuning gun locks is more art than science.
Agreed
Just a RCH! I love that
My idea is to weld a weaver rail onto a reciever and put a 32x16 scope on it - problem solved ;)
Cutting dovetail is good idea, because it is quite easy to make verticaly adjustable frontpost (screwed into frontsight base) - for example metric M3x0,35 (sorry for metric but I am a normal guy) - 3mm diameter (0,118") with 0,35mm (0,014") lead. Butt, welding a rail is better idea ;)
Good shooting. That round looks fun. The guy in the back is your biggest fan when you hit. YEAH!!!!!!
Thanks.
Thank-you
Thank you
❤❤❤
That looks pretty dang satisfying.
Is that hazy smoke from Canada or you guys?
Love the smell of BP in the morning. Smells like…………..(you know.)
Just a tip to share when your testing a hammer on a bare nipple put a rubber faucet washer over the nipple that way your not peening it over just saves the life of it as much as possible.
It’s not a nipple like a black powder nipple. It’s a nipple that has been bored out to retain the spring loaded firing pin. So the hammer is primarily striking the spring loaded firing pin.
Ahh ok did not know that my bad !@@Operator_Inquiries
Awesome video like always
Thank you
Great shooting offhand.
Thanks
Is that a real dinosaur?
Excellent Video
RCH StaNavTerm
Thank you
Awesome shooting good stuff
Thank you
I would love to see a second camera angle down there to see them smacking the crap outta that target. Damn ! That's got a punch.
Once I get it hitting a little more consistent, we will do that. Right now it would be pretty hazardous to the camera.
Found another McBain! First time ever!
Great channel, really like what you're doing. Du you have some load data for Trail Boss for 577 snider and 577/450 MH? Are you using some filler in those cases with Trail Boss? Greetings from Norway 🇳🇴
It did not suck great shooting considering the age of the rifle when was it made in the 1860s 1870s
Good Video
Thank you
Got one. Not very accurate, the ammo is very expensive, but a whole lot of fun!
Neat old rifle, and it looks to be as much fun as my Rolling Blocks
Oh, I am going to have to find one
I like them
Schlachtschule means slaughter school but I think here it means battle school
well, seeing as how there ain't no such thing as "luck" i will take skill every time,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
You guys are "almost" too much fun!! It does look like that gun has a kick!
Thank you. With 80gr it definitely has some recoil
You can be a monster killer 😊😊😊
Cool video
The way that thing kicks I would not shoot that rifle by remote control from the next County !
Curious whether you have a Snyder rifle ?
Lotta History behind it and I personally think it was a much better rifle than the Springfield 1873.
If you have one that would make for an interesting video as well.
I have an 1868 Springfield in 50-70 that I was planning on comparing
Like button has been hit lol
Thank you
the problem with old guns like this is barrel steel and how it wears!! it's hard to match a bullet to the barrel because the different steels they used over production wear different! one might wear to.579 and another to .582 and so on!
Unless it’s a Mk III, the barrel is iron.
@@jonathanlewis453 iron or soft steel same problem so i consider the barrels to be the same there!!
Personally I’d skip the sizing die after converting the 24ga. I’d go for a shorter conical 440-480gr or so. I’m going to give the lee .58 REAL bullet a try one of these days might end you lapping out the bands.
Most of these guns shoot high check British militaria forums for some reversible modifications to the sights.
You and capandball make some good content about muzzleloaders and antique arms but in very different approaches. I know this is a tall order, but would you consider looking at the henry single shot .45-70? Aside from that, this video was very entertaining and fresh compared to the SEA of videos of blowing watermelons up and Lucas Botkin type high speed shooting...
I also wanted to ask, what is your most modern firearm that you own?
Thank you. I’m not a big fan of the new Henry guns. I own plenty of “new” modern of firearms.
She angry 👌
Honestly what I'd like to have is a GIANT Keith SWC bullet that would be like the 260 grain 45 Long Colt bullet just scaled up to 59 cal.
The Snider acts like a giant pistol bullet, why not treat it like one.....LOL
As far as keeping something original is concerned I would only worry about that if it was a Short Rifle or a rifle in really nice condition. One of those from Afghanistan I would probably JB weld a Red Dot onto and call it a day.
You need to swab the bore from time to time when shooting black powder?
You slipping into "BritishMuzzleloaders" bout made me spit my coffee.
Great video as per usual. You're a persistent f'er you'll get it dialed in...
How is the crown on the barrel? Do the groups shift any with powder charge? (sometimes it is easier to just bring the group towards the sights)
And because of the vintage, can you confirm that the barrel is truly straight? Dropped off wagon/squished by horse/etc.
Powder charge has an effect on the elevation but it hits right regardless
For the sights I've seen a lot of crazy ideas on a site called British Military Forum but I don't know if they really work. I am thinking about installing a peep sight on one of my Sniders , a Williams sight or something like this but I don't have the sight yet so I don't know if it works.
✅
I see you have received my propaganda and have pinned it up on your wall.
No charge for advertising. 😉
Wait. Was that a slight flinch there at about 0:29 on your misfires? No judgment here -- I get them all the time with my flintlocks & sometimes even just a .22 if I'm being too lazy. You're still a better shooter than I am.
Who me?!?! Nonsense!
All the cool kids say red dots are the best, try one of them 😂.
I would have adjusted the sights the second I knew for sure there the bullet was landing. Then dial the sights in to see how close a five shot group is. By the way dang good shooting.
Thank you
my martini henry carbine can shoot MOA up to 200 yrds.... i got lucky it had a sub caliber insert, leaving the original rifling pristine. can't hit anything after 300 my eyes ain't what they used to be..
Have you slugged the barrel at all and how is the crown the crown will have you shooting off the crown is sometimes over looked it will give you bad accuracy if not right
Off topic….have you ever tried loading .22LR with black powder??
Not yet
I guess welding a picatinny rail to the barrel and mounting a long eye relief scope is going a little too far...
Puts out a solid whack. You still think a larger bullet, or are you happy withe progress?.
My order for custom molds have been both increased, and has been temporarily set back as I have acquired a new project for my single shot frames.
It will be another rechamber.
Still experimenting.
@@Everythingblackpowder your new mold flat based?
Yes
Why you do not use optics for this rifle?
Because even I have standards.
Question for you. On your black powder ballmill- what size pvc vessel length n diameter and what size and quantity of ball do you use? Thank you in advance!!!
4” diameter, 8” long
@@Everythingblackpowder what size balls... and how many. I want to buy brass in the right size n quantity due to one of your other videos... great channel!
I use 1/2 inch brass balls and I fill my jar about 1/3 of the way up with them.
@WillardMcBain do you know about how many you used? That is what I am looking for really. I don't want to order too many at the price they are! Thanks
@paulprudowe6804 at least 200
Dude, I can't hit target at 18 yards, so 180 is quite far away so next time can you just match for few seconds it by red arrow? I'm blind no glasses no target recognition ;)
I shoot a 22cal break barrel air rifle at a 16inch steel disc at 165yds that is similarly exciting as black powder long range shooting. The struggle is real when you extend the limits of your weapons. Good shooting
Thank you
What the velocity of this ?
I didn’t check because my chronograph doesn’t work when it’s cloudy and raining
Why you use this old rifle? We want to see modern rifles on black powder or aluminium powder or blank powder
History and character, modern firearms lack both.
to quote a great man.... "just make your own damn video then!"
have you ever used Gordans stump remover to make BP????? it says it 99% kno3 and 1% calcium stearate
No. I use technical grade KN03. If you are going to use any kind of stump remover I would highly recommend purifying it at least once.
Do you have instagram?
What you have to do is, screw your shootin’ eye in a little to the right. That’ll bring point of impact to the left. Consult your ophthalmologist.🙄………..🥸👍