Dana 30 Hubs, Brakes, and Tie Rods | Rebuild Part 5 | Jeep CJ7 | Project Rowdy Ep051
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- In this video, I will be rebuilding an Dana 30 Narrow Track Front Axle. This is Part 5 that primarily covers installing Wheel Hubs, 4x4 Locking Hub, Disc Brake Calipers and Brake Pads, and new Rugged Ridge Steering Tie Rod and Connecting Rods. It is the final part of the rebuild of this Dana 30 axle.
This series will be available in a unique CZcams Playlist and will include the following upgrades:
- Weld the Axle tubes to the Differential Housing (strength)
- Spartan Helical LSD Differential upgrade amzn.to/3RotZPW
- Motive Gear Ring and Pinion re-Gear from 3.54 to to 3.73 amzn.to/3Eb1aUc
- Motive Gear Master Rebuild Kit amzn.to/3SSlOwb
- Moog Upper Ball Joints amzn.to/3Eg5v8J
- Moog Lower Ball Joints amzn.to/3SFLyMq
- New Front U-Joints
- Media Blast Housing, Prime and Paint with VHT Primer and Paint
- Disc Brake refresh
- New Tie Rod and Connecting Rods
I have assembled a complete list of parts and many of the tools that I used during this rebuild in an Amazon Affiliate Store page which can be found at the following link: www.amazon.com/shop/influence...
All of this is being done to prepare this axle to be reinstalled in my 1979 Jeep CJ7 which is slated to for an LS LM7 5.3L Engine swap.
Project Rowdy is a restoration on a 1979 Jeep CJ7 V8 Golden Eagle.
Project Rowdy Playlist: czcams.com/users/playlist?list...
UCanDoIt2 Contact: UCanDoIt2Mike@gmail.com
JeepForum Thread: www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/pr...
Facebook Page: / projectrowdy
00:00 Wheel hub bearing preparation and installation
04:40 Front brake caliper installation
10:57 4 Wheel Drive locking hub installation
13:25 Front Tie Rod and Connecting Rod installation
Music
Intro: Alex Skrindo (Alive)
Other: Kontinuum (Aware)
Other: Cold Sun - Del
#jeep #jeepcj #lsswap #lsswaptheworld #lsswapc10 #lsswapc10 #diyperformance #roughcountry - Jak na to + styl
I have assembled a complete list of parts and many of the tools that I used during this rebuild in an Amazon Affiliate Store page which can be found at the following link: www.amazon.com/shop/influencer-8c6a35f2. Best of luck and hope you are enjoying your builds. Mike
I have been following this build for years. It is truly going to be one of the best CJ's out there when finished.
Thank you for the kind words Jake. Thank for following along.
Another good video. I like how you keep your work environment and items you are working on so organized and clean!
Between each project, I always clean up and put away tools. It is a great time for me to start thinking through the next steps and it always makes working on the next step more enjoyable. I have a small space and it can get out of hand very quickly. Cheers to you Billy! Mike
Best intro tune ever!
Thank you Sir!!!!
GO OWLS!!! Graduated from KSU about 7 years ago! Live not far from Kennesaw. Love your Jeep, and hope I can pick up some tips and tricks from you for my own CJ.
I am a Southern Tech Graduate which was later consumed by KSU, so I now support the OWLs. More of a Dawgs fan, but love them all. Best of luck with your CJ project. Thanks for reaching out! Cheers. Mike
Looking forward to all those new mods.
Thanks for the feedback. I think they will turn out very nice. Old School look with modern features hidden inside.
hi Mike great vid thanks for your content , please don't think the small details are not important as us dummies need all your expertise , as over here in the UK we had mates growing up who were mechanic and i did their plumbing, as a barter, so now retired and having bought my first 79 CJ after watching you in your vids, like i said no detail is to small even if you think it's obvious to me picking up the spanners for the first time at 65 need all the help, so really appreciate you research thanks Sam
Sam, I want to thank you for taking the time to leave this comment. A very well received message. As I have owned my CJ7 for 34 years, you can imagine that I have tinkered with many of it's parts. I will be the first to say that tinkering does not make me a expert. As an Engineer and very Logical person, I can learn things very quickly or make up a process that makes sense and should be reasonably/technically correct. That still does not make me an expert. I hope that all that I share makes sense to others and that they would feel comfortable learning and trying some of this stuff themselves. In short, I always encourage others to find technical manuals or instructions to add to their research. A friend of my son, mentioned two days ago that these ole Jeep are "Legos for Men". I laughed. Glad you enjoy following along. Glad you have joined the CJ Club! Glad you are learning from what I am sharing. Will continue to provide good details and not skip the hard parts, cause that is where you will run into the hard parts too. Cheers to you Sir! Mike
Well done Mike, as usual
Thank you Sir! Glad to have the whole axle complete. Time to move on to something more interesting. Cheers!
Yup, threw a grant on my 76 cj5 . Along with absolutely every component from the horn button to the knuckles. And I mean everything.
Old school. I have purchased the new Grant Wheel and the donor wheel that will give up it's heating element. Time to dissect.
As someone has already mentioned to you about swapping the calipers from side to side so that the bleeder valve is at the top of the caliper. You may also want to pinch down the tabs of the outer brake pad with a big pair of Channellock pliers so that the pad will grip the caliper better and not cause a rattle when your wheel hit a bump. Thanks for the video BTW. 👍
I appreciate your kind approach to your message. I have added a note to the axle about the tabs and will do that once I get the wheels off again! Cheers Mike
Looks great Mike! I just sold some old Grant wheels.
I'm going with the Grant Corsa GT #1020, but found a deal on the Suede version. The cover is coming off to install the heating element and I plan to make a custom cover with Nappa Italia Leather. New wheel, heating element donor wheel, leather and much of the electronics are in house. Doing some testing currently. I thought if you today. I owe you a package!!!! Cheers... Mike
Whenever I go to an auto parts store that says they turn rotors, "The machine is down," or "The person who knows how to do it isn't here." It's like the ice cream machine at McDonald's. lol
That's funny.... Your reference to the Ice Cream machine at McDonalds is spot on!
O'Reilly's is always down
Getting close to being ready for me to drive it soon :)
You can drive it now…. But you’re going to have to push it back home. I haven’t installed the Vrroooom yet! Cheers!
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I'm too old for a Flintstones mobile. I'll wait until it has the gojuice and the vroom installed :)
Thanks for the video. Very helpful.
In the process of replacing my rotors, hubs, and brakes for my 77 CJ7, but stuck at one point.
At minute 12 of your video, after you have bolted on the drive flange and before you replace the C-clip, you place a tool behind the rotor and it moves the axle end out far enough for you to place the C-clip. What is that tool and how did you get it to move?
I'm at that point to place the C-clip, but I can't get the axle end out enough to place the C-clip
To slide the shaft out enough to get the c-clip installed, I just used a very large screw driver. It helped me leverage the axle as I placed it behind the u- joint and in front of the axle housing. It slides out very easy. You could do it with your hand, but the screwdriver or other type of prying device will help hold it out there while you install the clip.
Mike
Agree, that price you were quoted for turning the rotors was ridiculous. It's $10 per rotor in my town.
That is about the price I was expecting. Threw me for a loop and shook my head.
It's coming together and looking great! Can't wait till it's done and see it in a good old red clay mud hole slinging mud. 👍🏻
Just kidding, I don't think I would put it in the mud. 🤣
I love trail riding, but not too much into the mud. Too lazy to clean it all up! Love your JK!...
I hope the 3.73’s are low enough. I had a ‘84 CJ7, 258 six, 33’s, and a T4. Believe it or not, it came with 2.73’s, yes, 2.73’s. Talk about a dog in 4 HIgh. I found some 3.54’s and installed. Way better but still too high.
The 5.3 is a great engine but, not a low end torque monster. I feel 4.11’s at least would have been suited for the OD transmission and a tire around 33”. That’s just my opinion.
Awesome build though. You have done a great job.
So this is a great topic. I went through all of the RPM calculators. My 2014 F150 V6, travels 70MPH at 1700 RPMs. The 4.10 gears put me at 2300-2400! Seemed not efficient to me. I have an after market Cam and will be happy at the lower RPMs. Engine Build videos start at Episode 005. I have a viewer that lives in the area that just converted back to 3.73 from 4.10 with about the same configuration. I'm going to give it a try! Hoping to end up with a smile! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike You will definitely end up with a smile. Nothing like enjoying a project that you have planned, and completed with blood sweat and tears! I had not calculated your combo. 3.73's, 33 inch tire, .79 OD, 70MPH computes to 2100 RPM. Just about perfect. My bad. You made the right choice.
I am at roughly the same point on my rebuild of an 84, will be finishing up the front axle this weekend as well as rebuilding the steering column. You mentioned getting a 82 or 84 frame, those used the wide track axles, will the narrow track axles fit on it as well? I had my frame blasted then did the internal frame coat from eastwood and used chassis saver to protect the outside of the frame. Thanks for the detailed videos.
The Frame width of the CJ5 and CJ7s did not change over the years. So the Springs will be the same width, therefore should use the same spring purches on the axles. Those Wide Track Axles are ~4" wider, (2" on each side.) I am not expecting any issues there. I am doing the YJ front spring upgrade and already have the entire suspension package waiting to be installed. Just barrowed a Pressure washer and a special tip to clean the inside of the frame, then plan to also use the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating for that area. Then, I might try to grind and blast the outer surface of the frame myself. Or I might haul it about 10 miles and have it blasted (Dustless Blasting) The estimate on that is $400. How did you like the Chassis Saver? Did it finish out smooth? That is one of my top choices as well. Love hearing of your progress. Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Good deal with the frame. My cost on having the frame blasted was the same, plus I had him to weld on a new rear crossmember and 1 side body mount that were rusted out. I liked the chassis saver, it went on easy with a brush and 1 quart was enough to do 2 coats, the transmission crossmember and shock towers with a little left over for touch up. I top coated with rustoleum professional semi-gloss black.
The Rear Crossmember on my new frame is toast. I have a new one on hand and plan to swap it out as well. Looking deeper into the Chassis Saver. As I mentioned, that is mostly likely my solution as well. Thanks! Mike
It's been a minute since I've worked on a CJ...do they use Saginaw columns? I mixed and matched some parts to update my S10 column, and the clock spring, lock plate and and related parts from a -94 Grand Prix with steering wheel audio controls would have some extra wires in it you could use to send the voltage for your heated seat wiring. Just a thought. I used parts from an '89 S10, '81 Firebird, '94 Grand Prix, '09 Buick Lucerne and an '07 Cobalt LT in mine. lol
It has been hard to determine the original Steering Column type. I just saw a forum post that mentioned that '76 and up CJs do use a Saginaw Column. Thanks for the info. I will check that out! Mike
Would you happen to know where to find a new caliper mounting bracket?
Here is how I would begin to look for that item. FIrst, I am not sure if you are really looking for New or one that you can recondition. I would Google search for "Quadratec Dana 30 Diagram". The Quadratec site has great diagrams with exploded views, part numbers and the parts you want. It is Number 30 on the diagram @ $134. In my area there are several 4-5 guys that have hoards of used parts and to reach out to them for a used version would be an option. Also FaceBook has several groups that are about used Jeep CJ Parts. Hope these ideas help! Mike
Had mine turned for $11.00 each!
1:46
That is a great price. I was shocked when the Local Firestone quoted my $70! Mike
Hi, does the lug nut stud press into just the rotor and do the stud splines press into both the rotor and the hub? Thanks.
The Wheel Lug will slip through the Rotor and get pressed into the hub. This will essentially hold the Rotor and hub together. Your Lugs should have a smooth section next to the head and then a splined section. The smooth section will align with the Rotor and the splined section will be pressed into and align with the Hub.
Hi Mike, The clip is meant to prevent the inner pad from rattling, it clips on the end of the leading side of the inner pad ear or tab. Also the bleeder screws need to be at the top, as is in the video the RH Caliper is on the LH side and vice versa. The air will not bleed and there will be no pedal or very low. And what Booster / Master cylinder did you use since you upgraded the rear drum to disc. did it come with a new proportioning valve?
Thanks for the information on the clip. That does make sense and I do now remember that is what it is for. I have kept them, and will install when the wheels come back off.
Calipers - Dang! I believe you are right! I think I installed them on the wrong side. I will check and get that swapped. I agree that the bleeder needs to be at the top of the chamber in order to properly remove air. I just over looked that. Thank you!
As I mentioned in my other response to you, I have not purchased my Booster/PV yet, but will be getting one for the Disc/Disc configuration. Hopefully as a proven kit. Thanks Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike I bought the USA version of the tandem 8" booster / Master cylinder kit sold all over the interweb. there is a import version but only saves like $50 odd bucks if you shop around. I've had issues with import parts so now in most cases I avoid the "cheaper" versions.
so I had the same observation when working on my D30. I think it was a manufacturing flaw. I tried swapping them but the banjo bolt will hit the knuckle. mechanic next door came over and he looked at them and said i remember those shitty calipers without me even asking his opinion. soon Ucandoit2mike, did you swap yours?
Sorry if this was covered in the video and I missed it, but are those the factory spindles/hubs for a '79?
Looking to upgrade my later model CJ7 to the 6 bolt hubs (and I assume I'll need spindles/hubs/brakes all from the same year). Thanks
I am running the factory style Spindles. The ones in the video are not the OEM. I have replaced them once with a direct OEM replacement. The Wheel Hubs in the video are the original OEM that accept the 6 bolt locking hubs. You will need to do that research, but I do not see an immediate need for you to change your spindles to use the 6 bolt locking hub style. I think the older 6 bolt hub and newer 5 bolt hubs should be compatible on the OEM spindle..... But please do that research to verify. Great stuff! Thanks... Mike
Thanks for this. I bought a disk brake conversion kit for a 1976 CJ 7 and the rotors won’t fit over the hubs. Any pointers? Do you mind sharing your rotor part numbers?
You may have to take your Axles to a machine shop and have the OD of the flange turned to allow the rotors to seat properly. Mine did not have a part number. They are from SSBC. You might find a website and more information there. Not a guarantee that you would not run into the same issue. Hope this helps. Mike
😁👍
Thanks for watching. Appreciate the big cheese and thumbs-up! Cheers.... Mike
Can you please tell me the wheel bearing part numbers you used. i know you said you reused them from when you recently installed them 4000 miles ago, but id love to find the timken bearing for the inside and outside of the wheel hub. i looked at your parts listing through amazon, but only found one bearing listed, since there are two with different sized ID i figured id ask you. Thank you in advanced. ill be regearing in a few weekends.
I Since I did not replace them, I do not have any notes on what they are. I do know that there are so many companies either making there own or private labeling the Timken ones it is hard to tell what you are getting. I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that I believe that these are the correct ones for Inner (amzn.to/3Sr218e) and Outer(amzn.to/3Z17ftZ) bearing for all CJ7 from 76 to 86. If I was planning to order new ones, this is what I would have ordered. Hope this helps. I am going to add these to my parts list. Have fun with yours! Mike
@@UCanDoIt2Mike Thank you so much for replying! I love the level of detail and down to earth nature you bring to your videos. Keep up the great content! Best of Luck to the continuation of your project!
What transmission will you be using with the 5.3 and Dana 300?
AX15 out of a 1989 YJ. Found it on Craigslist with a broken Reverse Idler Gear and have already rebuilt it.
That’s a solid transmission! Good find. Interested in knowing how this adapts to the 5.3. Will you be showing this? Or did I miss it.
Keep up the outstanding work and detail!
I will show and probably detail my entire Engine/Trans/TransferCase configuration. It is coming up somewhat soon. Trying to get my Frame complete so that I can start assembling all the parts. Just about to turn the corner where I am starting to put it all together. Cheers! Mike
The brake clip goes on the inside pad it’s an in the rattle clip
Is it intended to squeal when the Brake Pad is low.... OR is it intended to put a little pressure on the inside pad to keep it from being loose (rattle)? Looking forward to your answer as well as I believe I will go take another look at it! Thanks! Mike
torque specs on locking hub by any chance?
according to the Guide, 20-30 ft lbs for the Hex bolts for the Flange to Wheel Hub.