Les Paul DIY: How To Solder Connections
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- čas přidán 7. 12. 2021
- Welcome back to our CZcams channel! This week we're going to show you how to solder the connections to your Les Paul!
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Dear Seymour Duncan and CZcams- Where were you 25 years ago when I self-taught myself this stuff the hard way? This channel is outstanding. Great work. Only thing I'd add is to put a few layers of painters tape around the cavity to help fend off solder iron burn. You'll smell the tape burning pretty quickly if you touch it.
This was perfect.
Thanks a lot for this very insightful and well shot series on changing pickups and associated stuff!
What if you only have 1 volume pot? Do the live wires both go to the same end on the pot or different ones? Solder the braided wires together on the back of the pot?
Is this possible to do with a pcb Gibson quick connect without using an adapter?
Very helpful, but I think your playlist skipped the whole "install the pickup" step(s)?
A basic question but how do you make sure your pots, capacitors don't get overheated to a level where they get damaged? How long can you heat the solder directly on the back of the pot? Thanks!
Hot iron, quick heat transfer. Could also use a crocodile clip on the tone pot as a heatsink.
Protecting a leaded capacitor from too much heat is relatively simple. You can clip onto the device lead near the body of the part with a copper alligator clip, or as many experienced techs use, a hemostat. I have several different sizes of hemostat (the cheap kind from China) I use the largest one for the space available up to about eight inch size.
Protecting the pots are more of a challenge. I only solder to the pots if requested by the customer and as far as I know, only CTS makes solder-able back electric guitar pots as part of their pot design. Bourns, who also make guitar pots, have available a solder washer H-127 (new design) which allows you to make a connection to the body of the pot.
From an electrical standpoint you do not have to use the back of a pot as a ground or chassis ground connection point. However, all of the "chassis" metal of the guitar has to be grounded at some point, which includes the pot(s) case. If you just want to ground the pot case you can use the solder washer. If the guitar comes with a metal pot mounting plate (like an older Les Paul), you just need to ground the plate, because all of the pots are attached to it.
You can make a proper solder joint to the back of the pot if you have the correct soldering equipment and supplies and know what a good solder joint should look like. Soldering push back wire tinned braid to a pot case is really unique to guitar wiring, and a huge challenge because the pot case and braid have a relatively large thermal mass as compared to a capacitor lead to a pot terminal.
The approach shown in the video is very mainstream, but in my opinion does not make the best solder joint, and more often than not produces a cold solder joint. First to help the pot survive the procedure only solder to the pot once for all connections. This approach is more traditional from an old radio wiring standpoint. Where by, you prep the joint first then solder once. How this would be different than what is in the video is you would first clean the scale and oxidation off of the pot back, I use a small die grinder with a very fine scotch-brite pad, then clean with IPA, apply liquid flux to the joint and then solder everything in one operation. If you prep the area to be solder on the pot and use additional liquid flux you do not need pre-tin the pot, which heats up the pot. If you want to see what a good solder joint is supposed to look like consult IPC J-STD-001 requirements. The joint will have smooth fillet sides and not look like a round blob or ball on the back or the pot.
To me in the video the soldering iron is not hot enough and should be of a higher wattage to make a solder connection of braid to a pot case.
Hi man what is the clear liquid you use with the solder?
Liquid Rosin flux
Regular lead solder or silver solder? Which is better for a Les Paul I’m hand wiring?
Use tin-lead eutectic with RA flux to solder to the back of a pot. RMA flux in my opinion is not active enough. For pot soldering the wire flux type is actually more important than if the solder has a silver content (Pb-Sn-Ag). Also, the back of the CTS pots are tin plated. If they where silver plated than silver solder would be more useful. Silver solder is useful if you are soldering stranded copper wire which is silver plated (as opposed to tin plated), which is often found in aircraft and marine wiring designs. Silver plated wire soldered with silver content solder make the most beautiful and shiny solder joints which are very corrosion resistant.
Euuuugh those nasty caps
Yeah. I have luxe bumblebees in mine.
this is like cooking but for man* GOOD STUFF/
*this comment might be super offensive in 2022, it's a joke of course...