Thanks Craig! Coil manufacturers should be required to install a clear window or two piece panel so the top can be easily removed for inspection. My 2 cents...
Teslong has just blown up in HVAC. I was the first ever to use one at my job, then my boss had all the other techs get one. Then I changed jobs and all the techs there were using them to!
Another informative diagnostic video however, the bigger problem seems to be HOW to correct it. Face it, manufacturers don’t make it easy to access the A coil, especially those of us with a plus size waist😂.
I used screw holes to measure pressure instead of drilling holes. Below coil and above coil measured 0.26 and 0.15, respectively. So the coil drop is about 0.11 WC. Since the drop is pretty low, I am hoping and thinking my coil is clean. I do not want to pry open the coil to see if it is dirty as it will warp the panel and leak air. I hope I am right.
@@The1realro It proves the motor & capacitor are in good condition. Of there is a lack of airflow issue it's probably due to a very dirty inner coil or excessive dent on the aluminum fin.
Not necessary unless it’s a gas furnace or you have no possible way to access it. Most coils have panels on them that you can take off and access the fins , there’s coils that are easily accessible and even if you have a furnace or air handler you can slide the coil out slightly on some units and get a opening to cleaning it. Always use a shop vac on the drain line while doing it
If the evaporator coils are clogged will the outside unit high and low pressure lines show a lot less difference in temperature between the two as well or will they remain constant and the unit just not cool as good even with the high differential temp? I was trying to figure out if the unit absolutely needs more refrigerant or the compressor isn't compressing good every time the temperature difference between the two lines gets less and less or if there's other problems might cause it as well when the unit still turns on and runs?
What is the temp difference between at output vents and return air grill? Mine was about 14F. Also low pressure line at the condenser outside was not sweating as it should be but warm. So i checked the pressure and it was low indicating refrigerant was low. So I had to charge 3 lbs of refrigerant until I got correct pressure and now I am getting 20F difference and low line is sweating. First easy thing to check is whether low line is sweating. If it is warm or frosting, you may have low refrigerant problem. If you worry about clogged coil, do what I did in my comment and check the static pressure. It's easy to do. It cost only $35 to buy manometer. You do not need the probe. I also bought the probe and confirmed that measuring it without it is as accurate as with the probe.
Depending on the complexity of cleaning the coil. I’d offer to sell them a proper media air filter cabinet. And then throw the cleaning in for a discount or free.
just replace the coil and add large filtering. (replace it all?) if small home and penny pinching, I would clean on spot. pretty much nobody will do that, because it will take hours to tear down/rig/clean and no guarantees of nothing else being bad and causing full replacement of equipment anyway! yeah, it sucks but in reality, just replace it all upfront and point to it's warranty (while looking dumb). warranties are an failed pyramid scheme from many years ago.(welcome to the earth, the failed pyramid scheme planet). yep
If you want to know where the video scope is from the links are here, thanks! Video scope: trutechtools.com/teslong-td500-articulating-endoscope-inspection-camera.html?aff=8 Digital Manometer: trutechtools.com/shop/?search_query=uei+manometer?aff=8 Use this code to save 8% at Trutechtools!: acservicetech Free Calculators, Quizzes, Articles, Podcasts, Quick Tips at www.acservicetech.com
Thanks Craig!
Coil manufacturers should be required to install a clear window or two piece panel so the top can be easily removed for inspection.
My 2 cents...
How about we take it one step beyond that……. Make a hatch / door that can be opened for cleaning without having to disassemble half the unit.
@@paulrozinski1488If it didn’t void the warranty we could make our own.
And a larger window in blowe door to see light or codes on control board
Teslong has just blown up in HVAC. I was the first ever to use one at my job, then my boss had all the other techs get one. Then I changed jobs and all the techs there were using them to!
Great video.
Great video. I do like the scope with the movable head. I might have to get one. Thanks for sharing
Nice video. Thank you! That inspection camera is nice. On my wish list now ✍🏽
Craig, man you haven't been chaging your filter
Love teslong scopes
Great Video. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend
Best videos!! Learn so much. Thank you
Another informative diagnostic video however, the bigger problem seems to be HOW to correct it. Face it, manufacturers don’t make it easy to access the A coil, especially those of us with a plus size waist😂.
Especially in a very tight closet and the coil is on the top
Need to put the coil out and clean it in that case
Good work, may God bless you
This was a great video. Thanks for all your help.
The only people who do not change from the truth
I used screw holes to measure pressure instead of drilling holes. Below coil and above coil measured 0.26 and 0.15, respectively. So the coil drop is about 0.11 WC. Since the drop is pretty low, I am hoping and thinking my coil is clean. I do not want to pry open the coil to see if it is dirty as it will warp the panel and leak air. I hope I am right.
YOU ARE MY CAREER!!!
Nice info! Thanks for sharing 👍
Excellent explanations, I woul like you can make a video about in the field service and the prices for each services !!!!
Amazing explanation as always. Hopefully the apprentices follow this method that way they are not orderjng EVAP coils lol
Excelente muy bien mil gracias
Easier and faster to use a laser tachometer to check blower speed RPM.
What would that prove aside from rpm
@@The1realro It proves the motor & capacitor are in good condition. Of there is a lack of airflow issue it's probably due to a very dirty inner coil or excessive dent on the aluminum fin.
How would you go about cleaning the air side of a secondary heat exchanger on a residential furnace?
What about pumping down and pulling the coil to clean or is that something you stay away from?
Not necessary unless it’s a gas furnace or you have no possible way to access it. Most coils have panels on them that you can take off and access the fins , there’s coils that are easily accessible and even if you have a furnace or air handler you can slide the coil out slightly on some units and get a opening to cleaning it. Always use a shop vac on the drain line while doing it
That’s how I’ve done it for 36 years
I've never been able to access under a Rheem "N" style coil. The coil plate is not able to be removed
@@johncote2776 on that one you have to get it from underneath or pull it that’s a tough one.
@boywhohadatiger Yeah, in the past I've recommended pump downs or I'll hit it from the top with the expanding foam coil cleaner.
good video, i have a question. could you make a video talking about vrf & vrv. thanks
If you fat, you’re not gonna be able to slip inside the furnace to look at your coil 😂
🤣🤣🤣
If the evaporator coils are clogged will the outside unit high and low pressure lines show a lot less difference in temperature between the two as well or will they remain constant and the unit just not cool as good even with the high differential temp? I was trying to figure out if the unit absolutely needs more refrigerant or the compressor isn't compressing good every time the temperature difference between the two lines gets less and less or if there's other problems might cause it as well when the unit still turns on and runs?
What is the temp difference between at output vents and return air grill? Mine was about 14F. Also low pressure line at the condenser outside was not sweating as it should be but warm. So i checked the pressure and it was low indicating refrigerant was low. So I had to charge 3 lbs of refrigerant until I got correct pressure and now I am getting 20F difference and low line is sweating. First easy thing to check is whether low line is sweating. If it is warm or frosting, you may have low refrigerant problem. If you worry about clogged coil, do what I did in my comment and check the static pressure. It's easy to do. It cost only $35 to buy manometer. You do not need the probe. I also bought the probe and confirmed that measuring it without it is as accurate as with the probe.
What boroscope camera is that?
Depending on the complexity of cleaning the coil. I’d offer to sell them a proper media air filter cabinet. And then throw the cleaning in for a discount or free.
just replace the coil and add large filtering. (replace it all?)
if small home and penny pinching, I would clean on spot. pretty much nobody will do that, because it will take hours to tear down/rig/clean and no guarantees of nothing else being bad and causing full replacement of equipment anyway! yeah, it sucks but in reality, just replace it all upfront and point to it's warranty (while looking dumb). warranties are an failed pyramid scheme from many years ago.(welcome to the earth, the failed pyramid scheme planet). yep
Sou técnico de ar condicionado de maquina de lava roupa e também conserto refrigerador, como eu faço para trabalhar na sua empresa.
Shouldn't method 3 be first because I'm sure many beginner tech do not have thoses expensive tools
If you want to know where the video scope is from the links are here, thanks!
Video scope: trutechtools.com/teslong-td500-articulating-endoscope-inspection-camera.html?aff=8
Digital Manometer: trutechtools.com/shop/?search_query=uei+manometer?aff=8
Use this code to save 8% at Trutechtools!: acservicetech
Free Calculators, Quizzes, Articles, Podcasts, Quick Tips at www.acservicetech.com