FMS Smasher V2 Hi Speed Motor, Hi Gear Lockout and Metal Gear Install -There's a Problem.
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- čas přidán 6. 03. 2023
- We install the FMS brushed high speed motor, our high gear lock out and install the FMS metal transmission gears. But... the gears don't fit well and we show you the problem and how to fix it during the install. Spoiler, they're about .5 mm too wide. Sorry for the excessive length of the video!
Buy the V2 Smasher here:
www.fmshobby.com/?ref=I4KyEL3...
Visit us here: crawlersncustoms.com/
Electric Driver here:
amzn.to/3YvCYm3
The body lift mounts and slow gear lockout will be found here when ready.
FMS High speed motor:
www.fmshobby.com/products/1-2...
FMS Metal transmission gears(you will need to grind/file!):
www.fmshobby.com/products/1-2... - Zábava
I'm dealing with this issue right now. So annoying. Thanks for the video trouble shooting the issue and providing the solution. Much appreciated.
Super cool love my smashers, so far I’ve only changed out the rims and tires appreciate you sharing this video watching now
Enjoyed watching this and it helped me with my metal gear switchover Thanks
Glad it helped
Loving this high speed motor, really transformed this truck for jumping and wheelies! Also fyi, u can just switch the wires going into the motor connection that plugs into the esc so it goes forward. No need to adjust the radio direction. Either works though
Thank you for being precise and thorough. It's greatly appreciated. Is there any chance of you going through the driveline on the Atlas 6x6? Various problems such as binding driveshafts, improper gear mesh, and excessive noise.
Thanks. It’s not likely since I don’t own one, but not impossible and who knows maybe I’ll end up with one sometime in the near future.
I would love to have one of each of those spacers for One of my smashers
Yes love my smasher.
we love our smashers
I have the V2, and by moving the top shock hole by 1 mm, swamping to aluminum high clearance suspension arms, and instead of using 10 - 20 weight shock oil, going up to 45wt, it dramatically improves handling, and the truck doesn't get hung up on its axles like a portal flip. Even with the speed motor, using high gear. Ive got the steering travel turned up, and the drag break on 0, and you have to try to flip it in turns. Aluminum suspension also makes steering alt crisper.I did need Treal hardened drive shafts.
im gonna add aluminum axel housings , theyre like 45 bucks US for a pair will drop the CG even more, without adding sprung weight or rotational mass.
because it someti0mes bicycles, and endos breaking in high with the speed motor, but this makes nose wheelies real easy. There's no issues in low gear.
Nice. Keeping ultra low weight while balancing strength is always a challenge. I choose to run the plastic axle housings to keep weight down, but you are correct, the aluminum housings would lower CG but also increase unsprung (bad) and overall weight. For our racing, both indoors and out, 45 wt would be way too much. We have lots of small obstacles on the track. Ill make a video showing it in detail soon. The last race of our 6 race series is actually this Friday and out of 20 or so trucks I am the leader with enough points already to lock down 1st in the series. I also actually prefer the plastic links since they act as a fuse in the suspension system and are plenty strong for most loads the truck sees. Our carbon LCG chassis will be out in a few days as well so I'm excited to swap from the aluminum prototypes over to the carbon rails.
@@crawlersncustoms Unsprung weight Isnt nessicarilly bad, it just means weight that doesn't directly effect the damping or spring rate. In most cases you want to eliminate the sprung weight because that is what effect your changes in center of gravity, body roll, and chassis dip. All of these cause youre CG, and youre suspension geometry to dynamically change. The heavier the sprung weight the greater this effect is. Unsprung weight lowers the center of mass, and has little to no effect on steering geometry and resists CG changes caused by changes in momentum or geometry. Rotational mass can be both sprung and unsprung. anything attached below your shocks is unsprung.
Unsprung weight also resists upward travel of the suspension so you can use softer springs with higher unsprung, but you need toalso have thicker damping oil, Higher Sprung weight you need stiffer springs, and lighter oil.
It sounds counter but the oil is ment to controll rebound more than compression. Shock oil slows the initial compression, but it also is so the recoil doesn't cause the wheel to launch off the ground as it releases the stored energy.
the goal is to always keep the tire in contact with the ground. Thats also why having droop is also important. This allows the wheels to prop into a low spot and maintain contact with the road.
(Or atleast thats was the theory the teach you at an automotive tech school)
@@kanedaadenak7088 I agree with much of that however unsprung weight in high speed, dynamic suspension movements is never good. It increases the work load of the shocks and negatively impacts the suspensions ability to track well over high frequency or high amplitude impacts. You only want the unsprung and rotational weight strong(heavy) enough to take anticipated loads. Any more hurts performance. In general, in racing applications, low weight and low Cg are the main goals and they’ll improve everything. For crawlers there are some exceptions to this rule like adding weight at or below the axle centerline to lower Cg but even that should be done in moderation. Edit: droop is important which is why on the lcg chassis we lay the stock shocks down a lot to decrease the effective spring rate and to get the truck to settle into its travel a bit. Stock it’s completely topped out and can’t react to dips.
Cool video🤘😎 That high speed lockout is so clean an tidy. I got a couple of 700mahs just floating above the gear servo lol I haven’t got round to removing it to create the space.
Dropped the mofo big block on the tiles, when I removed it to have a look inside. Yeah it bounced up hard!
something came loose inside. Plus the remote kept flying off the counter too, like about a hundred times until the buttons came loose 😂😂😂 so just reinstalled the stock motor.
Still moves quick on the bigger lipo.
Dang! Sounded extra spicy!
@@crawlersncustoms that’s the last time I do a quickie in the kitchen lol
Is there an optional bearing set for the bearings missing from the Smasher, or did you order just the full replacement kit?
I contacted FMS about this gear problem , they said it was fixed so I ordered them along with the high speed motor , battery and heat sink. After installing them and running the truck for a few minutes the power cuts out . I ordered Treal gears .
Let us know how it runs with the Treal gears.
The Treal drive gears solved my issue and much quieter too .The Treal shift/clutch dog gears do not match so I am using the FairRC metal shift fork and shift gears . There is a little issue with engagement into low gear but once it’s in gear it stays in gear .
My runtime went from 7 minutes to 25 minutes after installing the Treal gears .
Be aware you need the battery without PCM when running the high speed motor. The normal battery will cut out when when at around 50% The high speed motor causes bigger votage drops when full power hence the EMC cuts out. The battery wothout PCM has EBT-G0025 below the FMS logo, but otherwise looks the same.
I gotta know where you got them tires lol!
Have u heard if the metal gear widths have been addressed by fms? Just picked up your chassis and going to throw in the slow gear delete and figured I might as well throw in metal gears while I have it torn down
I haven’t been able to confirm if there are any changes.
Thank you for the video!!! 🥇👍👍👍 where I can get this beautiful tyres and rim???
Thx. Those are Jconcepts
@@crawlersncustoms thank you!!! 🤜🤛😎
I see the cordless driver that you use. What are the long bits that you use. Thanks
I use MIP.
amzn.to/3Gnh6T9
How come your V2 doesn't cut off the motor on full throttle with that speed motor upgrade?
Mine stops the moment I give it full throttle (no binding or whatsoever...it has to do with the electronics for sure). With my 2S 60C aftermarket SCX24 battery it runs fine.
I think it’s tied to a bcm some of the original batteries came with. From what I understand though they share the same part numbers some of the batteries are different. That being said I’m using 400 mah 30c 2s in mine and it’s perfect.
Any action vids
Are these gears still or are new orders the correct size ?
Hard to know. I haven’t had to re order them yet.
Is there a part 2 where you show it in action? Do you get wheelies?
Sorry I don’t know how I missed your questions. Lowered for racing like this it will only wheelie on high traction surfaces. Ideally you don’t want to wheelie when racing.
Are you going to sell the body mounts and those spacers
They aren’t as durable as we need them to sell. As we finish the carbon chassis we will offer the stl for people to print their own.
Would it be possible to get the stl for those spacers
They aren’t finished yet. Needs more testing.
Did u make the new body posts
Muito bonito seu monster, onde comprou os pneus ?
Jconcept 1/24 monster truck tires
Any vids of the races?
I do most of the recording but racing mini mt and being able to film at the same time hasn’t worked out lol. I get away with it on drifting and crawling… but not racing. It’s very fast paced.
One more question. My two kits will be hitting my doorstep tomorrow. What shocks would you recommend? Stock gets it done?
@@brianchong4134 the stock shocks work well with 15wt and some green slime on the seal packs.
It ran in reverse do to the portal flip
Clever solution.
LOL, you reverse the polarity through the transmitter, right in the manual..easy fix..
I run mine for like 5 mins and the motor just shut off and got real hot
Check for drivetrain bind. We have two and they have been fine. Make sure you have a heat sink on the motor especially if it’s the high speed motor(both of ours have the fms high speed motor).
Get a heat sink and any other quality battery which doesn’t have the high discharge protection circuit like the stock battery has. The stock battery has a protection circuit that keeps it from over-discharging, but the high draw motor will sag the lipo making it think it has hit low voltage cutoff and then shut down.
Mine hates me.. the motor runs in reverse and I have spent 5 hours trying to align the fn two speed . I either have hi neutral low until I change gear then I have nothing . Then if I put it in gear myself it's never the same place .. I'm loosing my freaking mind argghh
Fyi I've been trying to installt he hi speed and gearbox for 5 hours. . motor works great drives great when it is in gear I just can't keep the fn thing in gear
I'm wondering if the selector rod with the clip has to be twisted... Just occured to me that maybe it's locked with that clip and clasp when you bolt the arms on .. I dunno but I'm going nuts haha
Also not sure if I just Revere the polarity of the motor or if it is controlled through the esc
The remote doesn't change it.. and sorry for spam but I can't find an answer anywhere haha hoping this gets your attention!!
Sounds possessed! Mine was easy to reverse the motor direction. Just like the video. Turn on tx, hold full throttle, hit the rev button. Done. Good luck!