Yeah I realised as I started recording... that it's gonna be really stupid when I get to the demo part. Makeshift set ups in various hotel rooms around the world is definitely not the way to go 😆
I wanted to ask if you are trying to scan 645 medium format, since there is no mask for this format, doesn’t the leak on the sides create an issue with the RAW? A light leak and contrast degradation on the sides?
Hi Nikola. As long as the film base is covering the backflight (like you can see at around 6:42 in the video, which is a 645 negative) you won't get any leaks. For the last shot on the sheet, just push it right up to the edge to avoid leakage. If that makes sense?
Hi Zsombor, thanks for the comment. There are a few options. I use Negative Lab Pro, because it’s very powerful, fast, and accurate. But it’s also $99. There is also grain2pixel which is a free plugin for photoshop which works great. Another option is curves adjustments yourself, which is not as scary as it sounds. Check out the negative conversion sections of my other video on DSLR scanning.
@@NorbiWhitney Thank you for your asnwer. But with this thing, The DigitaLIZA Max can you do the negative conversion or this is only enlarge and digitalize the negative the film, and you have to do the conversion at another step?
@@bzdombor Yeah this is only a negative holder and lightbox. From there you will capture a picture of the negative with a digital camera/phone, and then you need to convert that to a positive yourself. My DSLR scanning video goes into more detail: czcams.com/video/N4f7d0-psIc/video.html
Looking at purchasing the DigitaLIZA Max for use with my iPhone 14Pro Max. I need a 35mm Slide Holder to use with the DigitaLIZA Max. Do you have any suggestions ? Thanks.
Norbi sorry for this question a year late but what shutter speed do you typically use on this since I've found because of the dark light source I'm going up till shutter speed 1/6 or 1/8 (with an aperture of 8 or 11) to get usable scans. Is that wise? I use a 2 second timer and a shutter release cable.
It’s never too late for a question! I’m normally 1 or 2 seconds. Cable release is the way to go. If you’ve got a modern Sony with ridiculously good low light performance, you could maybe shoot at ISO 320 for example and bring the exposure time down a bit without introducing digital noise.
@@NorbiWhitney Thanks so much! I think that would help. Also - I've been noticing some pink/green digital noise in my images (in full zoom) I wonder if that's because I need to expose my negatives to more light while scanning. Will try with a 1 sec exposure.
It’s this one. And I think it’s gonna be sold out and back ordered forever… cinestillfilm.com/collections/scanning-finishing/products/cs-litecamera-scanning-light-source-with-valoi-360-film-holder-bundles?variant=42246159335596
![Scanning without a Scanner: Digitizing Your Film [with a DSLR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/N4f7d0-psIc/mqdefault.jpg)
![Scanning without a Scanner: Digitizing Your Film [with a DSLR]](/img/tr.png)
You are the best. Gracias 4 so much and better INFO. Well done.
De nada. I'm really happy you liked it!
Loved the info from future edit Norbi.
He do be like that
Nicely done. Would have been interesting to see a demo.
Yeah I realised as I started recording... that it's gonna be really stupid when I get to the demo part.
Makeshift set ups in various hotel rooms around the world is definitely not the way to go 😆
Excellent review! Very informative and concise!
I was scared of this longer running time, but glad to hear it was received as concise!
Good video. Useful information.
Appreciate your tour through my videos! 🙏🏼
I wanted to ask if you are trying to scan 645 medium format, since there is no mask for this format, doesn’t the leak on the sides create an issue with the RAW? A light leak and contrast degradation on the sides?
Hi Nikola. As long as the film base is covering the backflight (like you can see at around 6:42 in the video, which is a 645 negative) you won't get any leaks. For the last shot on the sheet, just push it right up to the edge to avoid leakage. If that makes sense?
Be sure to watch till end, good info in the edit.
Stay safe.Peace
Hi, this looks superb. Can I ask how do you transform the negative into positive? Thanks a lot!
Hi Zsombor, thanks for the comment.
There are a few options. I use Negative Lab Pro, because it’s very powerful, fast, and accurate. But it’s also $99.
There is also grain2pixel which is a free plugin for photoshop which works great.
Another option is curves adjustments yourself, which is not as scary as it sounds.
Check out the negative conversion sections of my other video on DSLR scanning.
@@NorbiWhitney Thank you for your asnwer. But with this thing, The DigitaLIZA Max can you do the negative conversion or this is only enlarge and digitalize the negative the film, and you have to do the conversion at another step?
@@bzdombor Yeah this is only a negative holder and lightbox. From there you will capture a picture of the negative with a digital camera/phone, and then you need to convert that to a positive yourself.
My DSLR scanning video goes into more detail: czcams.com/video/N4f7d0-psIc/video.html
@@NorbiWhitney Thanks a lot! :)
Looking at purchasing the DigitaLIZA Max for use with my iPhone 14Pro Max. I need a 35mm Slide Holder to use with the DigitaLIZA Max. Do you have any suggestions ? Thanks.
Hi David, thanks for stopping by.
As there is a diffuser with it, I think you could probably just lay your slides straight on that maybe?
Do you have a link the cinestill bundle?
cinestillfilm.com/products/cs-litecamera-scanning-light-source-with-valoi-360-film-holder-bundles
There was a special release price, which is no longer the case. But it’s still very well priced.
Norbi sorry for this question a year late but what shutter speed do you typically use on this since I've found because of the dark light source I'm going up till shutter speed 1/6 or 1/8 (with an aperture of 8 or 11) to get usable scans. Is that wise? I use a 2 second timer and a shutter release cable.
It’s never too late for a question!
I’m normally 1 or 2 seconds. Cable release is the way to go.
If you’ve got a modern Sony with ridiculously good low light performance, you could maybe shoot at ISO 320 for example and bring the exposure time down a bit without introducing digital noise.
@@NorbiWhitney Thanks so much! I think that would help. Also - I've been noticing some pink/green digital noise in my images (in full zoom) I wonder if that's because I need to expose my negatives to more light while scanning. Will try with a 1 sec exposure.
@@dillimeinbilli possibly. Make sure your histogram is over on the right hand side. To get as much information as possible.
@@NorbiWhitney Thanks I tried it and it definitely reduced the more pronounced noise. :)
Oh, and what is the model Cinestill light box. I couldn't find it.
It’s this one. And I think it’s gonna be sold out and back ordered forever…
cinestillfilm.com/collections/scanning-finishing/products/cs-litecamera-scanning-light-source-with-valoi-360-film-holder-bundles?variant=42246159335596