This is the gold that CZcams used to be known for. No rubbish, just a very well made video by Arnold, I mean, Georg ;). Thanks mate for the great video, I learnt a lot.
Nice job. I have an American '61 re-issue Strat that I bought a Warmoth neck for. I've been playing it over 15 years. Warmoth makes some of the best after market necks and bodies out there. I highly recommend them.
looks so good. the roasted swa,p asj provides a perfect color and grain. Instead of pumice, have you thorught about applying thre Tru-oil, and then sanding it while it is wet, the dust will fill the pores. I learned this from a gunsmith, who made custom rifle stocks. They were were perfectly smooth.
Před rokem
yes, I've heard of that technique, or some people apply the Tru Oil while sanding, all in one go. I might try that in the future. But that time I thought using pumice has the lowest risk of me messing up.
Great work man! I did a warmoth mahogany body in tru-oil. I took my time and applied layer after layer. Probably 25-30 coats over about 6 weeks with plenty of dry time. Tru-oil layers, it doesn’t fuse into itself so each layer reflects light. It’s beautiful. Not a satin but not glossy either, just a beautiful deep oil finish. I’m building a telecaster next, going with roasted swamp ash and I’ll use tru-oil again except I like the grain feel so I won’t be grain filling.
It looks like you need a few more coats of TruOil and some light sanding to fill it in a it smoother. TruOil is a great product I use it on many things.
Před 4 měsíci
On that guitar I actually like that the grain shows through the finish:)
Great job with those bodies man! They ended up looking great! Didn't know about the ash wood shortage, that sucks. I wish I was as handy as you and had a place to work on instruments too. Maybe someday! Cheers! It's a pleasure to watch your vids, awesome production/quality as always.
So awesome! 😍 What brand do you use for your cutting and polishing compound?
Před 21 dnem+1
@@lewis3418 it's called Kiesolin by Kiesow (Austria), I bought that in Europe. But I think any brand of buffing wheel compound will probably get the job done
Great video! I have never heard of the filler/sealer from birchwood before. Do you have any idea what it contains or what it is based on?
Před 6 měsíci+1
I bought the "Sealer & Filler" years ago, as part of a 3 part kit: Tru Oil, Sealer and Wax This is the data sheet: www.birchwoodcasey.com/content/datasheets/23323%20Gun%20Stock%20Sealer%20%26%20Filler.pdf
What a great video. Thanks. I'm planning on doing something similar soon (first time) so I've bookmarked this and subscribed. Edit: Is there a DIY handheld power tool you could maybe recommend for the buffering/polishing?
Před 10 měsíci+1
Thanks :) Yes, there are eccentric car polishers that are handheld
Didn‘t think on my kit build to clean the body with lighter fluid before clear paint. Now I have a bunch of weird looking stains on the bottom back of the body, wich change shape when tilting against the light….🤷🏻♂️🤦🏻😏 (finger grease… and sweat from sanding in August heat)
Před rokem+1
That'll make it your unique instrument then ;) but some imperfections always happen, I think
No fight in the comments. Swamp Ash is definitely the best body wood. I would make an argument for Walnut if it wasn't for weight, but because of the weight it's best used as cap or veneer. Swamp Ash reigns supreme!
Před rokem+1
You're right about walnut, I have a walnut guitar (body and neck, birch cap) and it sounds really sweet. Luckily made from a light piece
Excellent Video, I just purchased a Music Man Sabre Guitar but this year did it not come with the Oil Finished Neck from Music man, " Headstock Only" I just purchased the " Tru Oil" " Wood Wax" Per Music Man as well. My Question is how long did you wait between coats on the Neck & Fingerboard? 12 hours-24Hours? Also good tip on cutting the Tru oil with Mineral Spirits, was that per Music man? I didn't get that detail from them. Thanks
Před rokem+1
I only know things by word of mouth regarding what music man does (e.g. online forums and other tru oil CZcams videos). But adding a bit of naphta or mineral spirits helps to make the tru oil thinner and go on smoother. Drying time is reduced as the mineral spirits will evaporate rather quickly, so I did 3 coats per day, waiting only around 4 hours in between. However, before applying the wax I recommend to wait at least 12 hours after the last coat.
How protective has the Tru Oil been after a year? Thank you.
Před 5 dny+1
it still looks the same. It cures really hard. Also, the guitars where I finished the neck with tru oil, which are several years old by now, are also holding up.
At first, i thought what a great craftsman. Now i think, what a great artist! How is tru-oil vs old nitrocellulose? No yellowing over time i would think? And do you find ( like The Beatles), that unfinished opens up tone? Thanks! ✌️
Před 8 měsíci+1
Thank you so much I guess the yellowing of nitro takes years? The bass that I've finished with Nitro 2 years ago shows no signs of yellowing yet. Tru oil has an amber color to begin with. And the guitars I've used it on didn't show any aging. But maybe after 10 years they might. Paul Reed Smith says that there's a small difference in tone between an unfinished and a finished guitar. Maybe I should do a test at some point, comparing the sound of raw wood Vs finished:)
@ Thank you for the reply. Great info. Regardless of tone differences, I find guitars that are unfinished get beat-up much easier (dings, chips in wood). If tonality changes are minimal , then it doesn't seem a good trade off.
Před 8 měsíci+1
@@The3fingers yes, and the wood would get dirty over time as it's hard to keep unfinished wood clean
@ There is a guitar I bought where someone removed the finish and used some sort of matte sealer. I'll do a video of it and send you a link soon. It needs something like maybe tung-oil, but I have no knowledge of how to refinish wood. Thanks! 👍
Nice work! I’m really interested in doing the same to my Warmoth roasted maple neck. How much mineral spirits do you mix in to the Tru Oil? Is this a crucial step or would it be fine to do the wipe on/off with just the oil? About 2 coats? Thanks man
Před rokem
I mix in about a quarter to a third of mineral spirits. It's not crucial for the 2 coats that go on a roasted maple neck.
How long did you wait in between true oil coats? What was the temp @ that time? thx for the video
Před 8 měsíci
I sometimes did even 3 coats per day, 6 hours apart But I did thin the tru oil with 1/3rd mineral spirits, which evaporates quickly. Otherwise I think it's recommended to wait 8 between each coat
before applying any layer of tru oil, how did you sand the body? with what abrasive paper?
Před 11 měsíci
I cleaned the body with mineral spirits, then applied 2 coats of the tru oil sealer, then I sanded it with a sanding sponge (I think it might be a 320 grit) and then I applied tru oil
Beautiful guitar. How do you get the fender sound? That of little wings.
Před 9 měsíci+1
Using the neck pickup of a strat is a good starting point, and then into a Fender type amp. I used my Axe Fx 2, with either a Bassman or a Twin Reverb amp selected.
Why do you dilute the tru-oil with mineral spirits?
Před 15 dny
it'll create thinner coats that might give a glossier result. Also, when coats are too thick it can happen that it doesn't cure hard and it stays tacky. However, it'd be an option to build up some coats with undiluted tru oil, do some level sanding and just do the final coats with the diluted tru oil.
servas brah! thx for answering so quickly. I refer only to the neck where glossy might not be your best friend (friction and heat makes your hand stick amirite). the musicman process is a 1 coat simple wipe on buff off w gun stock oil, no?
Před 15 dny
@@CheckingYourRealityForYou Grias Di, I put 2 thin coats on the roasted maple neck. One might be too little and not last very long. But it's not glossy yet, that would need more coats. For non-roasted maple necks I'd do at least 8 thin coats as the wood is more thirsty. At the musicman factory they do this "wipe on, immediately wipe off the excess"-method, but surely for more than one coat.
Cool woodwork but the wood of the body has practically zero effect on the sound. It's all makebelief, might as well put some crystals inside the pickups to keep the evil spirits out.
Před 10 měsíci+6
well, while it's true that a solid body guitar has no soundbox, it's still a good idea to have a strong but lightweight material for the body (it doesn't even need to be wood, it's great to work with though). Hard materials = snappy sound, stable guitar soft materials = mellow sound, possible stability issues (depending on how soft) The swamp ash body that I've used here is very light considering its wood hardness/stiffness rating. And it looks great.
@ can you give one experimental proof of what you're saying, or is it you just passing on folks tales? it's been tested multiple times. There's a guy on CZcams that shows that the same setup with different woods doesn't make any tone difference.
Před 10 měsíci+3
@@crapadopalese well, my claim there was that the ideal body material should be strong while being relatively light (doesn't even need to be wood) All typically used guitar body woods are classified as "hardwoods", which are all easily strong enough to handle the string tension etc. and then it's a matter of preference if the wood should look a certain way, or if someone likes a hefty guitar or a lighter one etc.
@recently I restored the ugliest and the cheapest guitar in the world with MDF body (yes, MDF!!!), Stratocaster-like ugly piece of crap with 3 single-coil pickups with steel plates attached to magnets from the bottom. And it sounds like Stratocaster should sound - clean glassy tone with big amount of twang. Of course, the body is made of shit, hardware is below bad, but pickups are not that bad. So wood doesn't matter. If pickups are good, they will pull out any material the body or neck are made of.
Black hardware on a wood grain guitar? 👎Gold on wood looks best. The guitar should shine and be seen from the back of the room not fade into the darkness. My esthetic opinion.
Před 10 měsíci
I'm also a fan of gold hw. I have an upcoming guitar build with a lot of gold early next year.
So, why does Wamoth not warranty their necks if they have an oil finish. I've been using Tru Oil for years on Osage bows and it's durable as hell once you build up multiple thin coats. Planned on using it on my upcoming build... I'm guessing it's just a "cover your ass" on their part because you never know what kind of rubbish people might try to finish their necks with? Lol
Před 9 měsíci
I think it's exactly what you said. Not all oil finishes are created equally and it's easier to give no warranty on oil finishes as a whole than to list each specific product. But any oil that cures hard and waterproof should do the trick.
This is the gold that CZcams used to be known for. No rubbish, just a very well made video by Arnold, I mean, Georg ;). Thanks mate for the great video, I learnt a lot.
"Geddout of dayuh!"
I couldnt pay any attention to the video, bros jawline is just so magestic
Focus, Hocus Pocus!
Sounds great, looks great, and you did a fantastic job building it! Thanks for taking us along for the journey!
Beautiful natural wood. Your patient work really gets a great result!
Nice job. I have an American '61 re-issue Strat that I bought a Warmoth neck for. I've been playing it over 15 years. Warmoth makes some of the best after market necks and bodies out there. I highly recommend them.
Now, let’s go get to the choppah!! Excellent work my friend!
lmao
You did great ! I thing Warmoth has wonderful parts.
No telling what a roasted neck n body like that would run from fenders custom shop , very nice 👍
Nail polish works well for finish repair and covering pole pieces
Best pickup selection demo EVER, great video broseph 😎👍👑
Thats how I start the finish, they I spray nitro over that so it wears quicker and gives it an amazing worn in look.
that's a good idea, it uses the advantage of Nitro being compatible to oil finishes.
Damn that thing sounds GREAT!!!! And looks even better.
great work!
thanks for sharing
that color is beautiful
Just absolutely beautiful! Great job!
That is abso-fookin-lutely gorgeous man! Congratulations! Best Regards and Best Wishes!
Ukraine? Really?
looks so good. the roasted swa,p asj provides a perfect color and grain. Instead of pumice, have you thorught about applying thre Tru-oil, and then sanding it while it is wet, the dust will fill the pores. I learned this from a gunsmith, who made custom rifle stocks. They were were perfectly smooth.
yes, I've heard of that technique, or some people apply the Tru Oil while sanding, all in one go.
I might try that in the future. But that time I thought using pumice has the lowest risk of me messing up.
Great work man!
I did a warmoth mahogany body in tru-oil.
I took my time and applied layer after layer. Probably 25-30 coats over about 6 weeks with plenty of dry time.
Tru-oil layers, it doesn’t fuse into itself so each layer reflects light.
It’s beautiful.
Not a satin but not glossy either, just a beautiful deep oil finish.
I’m building a telecaster next, going with roasted swamp ash and I’ll use tru-oil again except I like the grain feel so I won’t be grain filling.
Mate I'm so happy you're uploading again, I love you videos. cheers !
FOCUS!! That easily deserves a Like!! Nice work all around!!
Came across this while looking for ash warmoth videos.. well done man was an enjoyable video to watch!
Phenomenal work! And that riff at 10:04 is familiar but i cant place it. Sounds like Nintendo!
Thanks :) that riff is from the "athletic theme" from Super Mario 3 (or maybe 1, I'm not sure)
My avenger is swamp ash.. love it
It looks like you need a few more coats of TruOil and some light sanding to fill it in a it smoother. TruOil is a great product I use it on many things.
On that guitar I actually like that the grain shows through the finish:)
Great build!
Good job looks great and sounds great
Great video and great result!
Nice! I'm doing an explorer with tru-oil !! 🤘
I play a 2005 Gibson Swamp ash L/P, wholesome range,
Great job with those bodies man! They ended up looking great! Didn't know about the ash wood shortage, that sucks. I wish I was as handy as you and had a place to work on instruments too. Maybe someday! Cheers! It's a pleasure to watch your vids, awesome production/quality as always.
I'm so glad you are back :)
here to stay now :)
10-way switch 🤯
it's like a 5 way switch, but with a second "bank" of 5 additional pickup combinations :)
czcams.com/video/3Sxe__KhRpI/video.html
BEAUTY!
looks great I just would prefer a satin or matte finish
Gorgeous axe!
Good job!
Amazing!!!
So awesome! 😍 What brand do you use for your cutting and polishing compound?
@@lewis3418 it's called Kiesolin by Kiesow (Austria), I bought that in Europe. But I think any brand of buffing wheel compound will probably get the job done
Legend thank you!
Great video!
I have never heard of the filler/sealer from birchwood before. Do you have any idea what it contains or what it is based on?
I bought the "Sealer & Filler" years ago, as part of a 3 part kit: Tru Oil, Sealer and Wax
This is the data sheet:
www.birchwoodcasey.com/content/datasheets/23323%20Gun%20Stock%20Sealer%20%26%20Filler.pdf
What a great video. Thanks. I'm planning on doing something similar soon (first time) so I've bookmarked this and subscribed. Edit: Is there a DIY handheld power tool you could maybe recommend for the buffering/polishing?
Thanks :)
Yes, there are eccentric car polishers that are handheld
Didn‘t think on my kit build to clean the body with lighter fluid before clear paint. Now I have a bunch of weird looking stains on the bottom back of the body, wich change shape when tilting against the light….🤷🏻♂️🤦🏻😏 (finger grease… and sweat from sanding in August heat)
That'll make it your unique instrument then ;) but some imperfections always happen, I think
No fight in the comments. Swamp Ash is definitely the best body wood. I would make an argument for Walnut if it wasn't for weight, but because of the weight it's best used as cap or veneer. Swamp Ash reigns supreme!
You're right about walnut, I have a walnut guitar (body and neck, birch cap) and it sounds really sweet. Luckily made from a light piece
Excellent Video, I just purchased a Music Man Sabre Guitar but this year did it not come with the Oil Finished Neck from Music man, " Headstock Only" I just purchased the " Tru Oil" " Wood Wax" Per Music Man as well. My Question is how long did you wait between coats on the Neck & Fingerboard? 12 hours-24Hours? Also good tip on cutting the Tru oil with Mineral Spirits, was that per Music man? I didn't get that detail from them. Thanks
I only know things by word of mouth regarding what music man does (e.g. online forums and other tru oil CZcams videos).
But adding a bit of naphta or mineral spirits helps to make the tru oil thinner and go on smoother. Drying time is reduced as the mineral spirits will evaporate rather quickly, so I did 3 coats per day, waiting only around 4 hours in between.
However, before applying the wax I recommend to wait at least 12 hours after the last coat.
@ Great advice, thanks, I just didn't want build up between the frets.
@@johnnyromero3336 in case something got on the frets then it can be scraped off with your fingernails after the oil cured
@ makes sense, easy enough. Thanks
Nice guitar. Btw, did you have to dress or level the frets?
On Warmoth necks I never had to do so, the frets were already perfect (which was good because I don't have tools to level stainless steel frets)
when extra finish drips down the sides - this will cause lines... do the edges first
How protective has the Tru Oil been after a year? Thank you.
it still looks the same. It cures really hard. Also, the guitars where I finished the neck with tru oil, which are several years old by now, are also holding up.
At first, i thought what a great craftsman. Now i think, what a great artist!
How is tru-oil vs old nitrocellulose? No yellowing over time i would think? And do you find ( like The Beatles), that unfinished opens up tone?
Thanks! ✌️
Thank you so much
I guess the yellowing of nitro takes years? The bass that I've finished with Nitro 2 years ago shows no signs of yellowing yet.
Tru oil has an amber color to begin with. And the guitars I've used it on didn't show any aging. But maybe after 10 years they might.
Paul Reed Smith says that there's a small difference in tone between an unfinished and a finished guitar.
Maybe I should do a test at some point, comparing the sound of raw wood Vs finished:)
@
Thank you for the reply. Great info.
Regardless of tone differences, I find guitars that are unfinished get beat-up much easier (dings, chips in wood). If tonality changes are minimal , then it doesn't seem a good trade off.
@@The3fingers yes, and the wood would get dirty over time as it's hard to keep unfinished wood clean
@
There is a guitar I bought where someone removed the finish and used some sort of matte sealer. I'll do a video of it and send you a link soon. It needs something like maybe tung-oil, but I have no knowledge of how to refinish wood. Thanks! 👍
Nice work! I’m really interested in doing the same to my Warmoth roasted maple neck. How much mineral spirits do you mix in to the Tru Oil? Is this a crucial step or would it be fine to do the wipe on/off with just the oil? About 2 coats? Thanks man
I mix in about a quarter to a third of mineral spirits. It's not crucial for the 2 coats that go on a roasted maple neck.
How long did you wait in between true oil coats? What was the temp @ that time? thx for the video
I sometimes did even 3 coats per day, 6 hours apart
But I did thin the tru oil with 1/3rd mineral spirits, which evaporates quickly.
Otherwise I think it's recommended to wait 8 between each coat
You sound like Arnold!
same home country as Arnold :)
before applying any layer of tru oil, how did you sand the body? with what abrasive paper?
I cleaned the body with mineral spirits, then applied 2 coats of the tru oil sealer, then I sanded it with a sanding sponge (I think it might be a 320 grit) and then I applied tru oil
@ thank you so much
Beautiful guitar. How do you get the fender sound? That of little wings.
Using the neck pickup of a strat is a good starting point, and then into a Fender type amp. I used my Axe Fx 2, with either a Bassman or a Twin Reverb amp selected.
@GeorgFigel thank you, mate.
I would like make a guitar like you did here. But with small details something different. Thanks Georg
Why do you dilute the tru-oil with mineral spirits?
it'll create thinner coats that might give a glossier result. Also, when coats are too thick it can happen that it doesn't cure hard and it stays tacky.
However, it'd be an option to build up some coats with undiluted tru oil, do some level sanding and just do the final coats with the diluted tru oil.
servas brah! thx for answering so quickly. I refer only to the neck where glossy might not be your best friend (friction and heat makes your hand stick amirite). the musicman process is a 1 coat simple wipe on buff off w gun stock oil, no?
@@CheckingYourRealityForYou Grias Di, I put 2 thin coats on the roasted maple neck. One might be too little and not last very long. But it's not glossy yet, that would need more coats.
For non-roasted maple necks I'd do at least 8 thin coats as the wood is more thirsty. At the musicman factory they do this "wipe on, immediately wipe off the excess"-method, but surely for more than one coat.
Where do you get that buffing wheel?
from a German online shop www.wonisch-tec.de
thanks
I hope that is tone pumice.
Special guitar pumice ;)
Does the wax affect how fast the neck feels?
Yes, a little bit. After breaking it in (playing the neck for 20 minutes or so)
niiiiiiiiiiiiice :)
Thank u georg now i can overthrow the Salvadorian goverment
But be careful though
Cool woodwork but the wood of the body has practically zero effect on the sound. It's all makebelief, might as well put some crystals inside the pickups to keep the evil spirits out.
well, while it's true that a solid body guitar has no soundbox, it's still a good idea to have a strong but lightweight material for the body (it doesn't even need to be wood, it's great to work with though).
Hard materials = snappy sound, stable guitar
soft materials = mellow sound, possible stability issues (depending on how soft)
The swamp ash body that I've used here is very light considering its wood hardness/stiffness rating. And it looks great.
@ can you give one experimental proof of what you're saying, or is it you just passing on folks tales? it's been tested multiple times. There's a guy on CZcams that shows that the same setup with different woods doesn't make any tone difference.
@@crapadopalese well, my claim there was that the ideal body material should be strong while being relatively light (doesn't even need to be wood)
All typically used guitar body woods are classified as "hardwoods", which are all easily strong enough to handle the string tension etc.
and then it's a matter of preference if the wood should look a certain way, or if someone likes a hefty guitar or a lighter one etc.
@recently I restored the ugliest and the cheapest guitar in the world with MDF body (yes, MDF!!!), Stratocaster-like ugly piece of crap with 3 single-coil pickups with steel plates attached to magnets from the bottom. And it sounds like Stratocaster should sound - clean glassy tone with big amount of twang. Of course, the body is made of shit, hardware is below bad, but pickups are not that bad. So wood doesn't matter.
If pickups are good, they will pull out any material the body or neck are made of.
@b94qo
those bugs are disgusting!
When you started playing, i thought you were about to break out with czcams.com/video/ncxoUrUo_qA/video.html 🎸
Oh that song is awesome as well :)
Black hardware on a wood grain guitar? 👎Gold on wood looks best. The guitar should shine and be seen from the back of the room not fade into the darkness. My esthetic opinion.
I'm also a fan of gold hw. I have an upcoming guitar build with a lot of gold early next year.
The dark finish looks horrific.
Man du sprichst wie Arni beste
So, why does Wamoth not warranty their necks if they have an oil finish. I've been using Tru Oil for years on Osage bows and it's durable as hell once you build up multiple thin coats. Planned on using it on my upcoming build...
I'm guessing it's just a "cover your ass" on their part because you never know what kind of rubbish people might try to finish their necks with? Lol
I think it's exactly what you said. Not all oil finishes are created equally and it's easier to give no warranty on oil finishes as a whole than to list each specific product. But any oil that cures hard and waterproof should do the trick.
@ Thanks for the reply. I planned on a couple thin coats of tru oil followed by a coat of Tried and True(a beeswax/linseed oil mix).
@@CloudfeatherRusticWorks that will surely work well :)