My '08 explorer it's about to hit 250k miles and I'm pretty happy with it, I bought it with 108k miles on it and imported it to mexico(I live there). I can list the issues I have had, the first one was a water hose(the one before the water pump) that was leaking a lot haha, just right after I bought it, after that I didn't have any issues till around 200k miles. Here I go with the list. . . . -Throttle body started failing and was quite dangerous, suddenly accelerating out of nowhere, turns out it gets dirty, just cleaned with a brake cleaner, do not take it apart because is balanced with the TPS(throttle positioning sensor), also I don't recomend replacing it with a new one(unless is a motorcraft) because most third party wont last even a year. -Heater: the blend door actuator broke down, I don't remember milega but was a quick fix, just took a driver side panel and couple bolts off. (110$ usd for the actuator) -A/C compressor (replaced it) (320$ usd) -Radiator break down recently and replaced it with a third party one, rebuilding it wasn't worth it. (~150$ usd) -Tie rods, replaced all of them twice, but I take it as a normal wear and tear -Interior: can't recline backseat(passenger side), not a big deal, I might fix it later haha -Stereo: stock stereo screen is failing, sometimes turns off(just the screen), found it in explorerforums that is just a matter of taking it appart and soldering the contacts but Im looking for a new aftermarket stereo -I guess thats it, engine and transmission are still pretty good, I change the transmission oil anually(transmission's mechanic charges me around 15$usd+ I buy the motorcraft mercon V synthetic oil) -whoevere is reading this, thanks for reading
Bought mine at 150k miles, at what mileage did you start to do the transmission fluid annually? Thanks! Edit: Also, my throttle body will do the opposite. While accelerating, will suddenly decelerate, big loss of acceleration. Then, it will jump back up to “normal”
I have the 2006 4.6L 3V, 4x4 with 145k miles. Replaced engine phasers and timing chain set, exhaust studs, throttle body, fuel pump, ignition coils, spark plugs, alternator, engine and trans mounts, front stabilizer bushings, rear differential carrier bushings, radiator, engine oil pan gasket, transmission bulkhead gasket, lower control arms, rear HVAC actuators, 3rd row seat motors, sun visors, and other normal wear parts like brakes, tires, drive belt, and complete fluid changes. It’s a great running car but needs a lot of attention.
I have a 2006 Ford Explorer and we got it pretty cheap because it had a bad transmission…but now that we got it fixed up it is a great first car for me!!
@@mr.2cents.846 well I got gifted a new car but it ran amazingly once we fixed it up. Ran great for the 5 years I had it. What exactly do you mean by heavy?
I got a real lemon! Explorer 2007 xlt 285697 miles and 1 issue. Shift solenoid went bad at 201000 miles. Chrome is beginning to flake but Michigan rust will probably win the race, Also 2 catalytic converters, many brake jobs, dozens of tires, lost a skid plate off-roading, and 14-15 miles per gallon mileage. What a piece of work! I'll never buy another one unless I can get a winch mount for it.
I've got the 2010 V8 and have found it to be overall pretty reliable. Like you, I've had to replace the front wheel bearings twice. It wouldn't be so bad, but where I live they use a lot of salt in the winter. Removing the bearings was the most difficult repair I've ever done. My Explorer has a rear climate system which means coolant lines running the whole length of the vehicle. For years, I found that I was having to add coolant every 3 months. Eventually, I traced the problem to the clamps on these lines. There are about 12 of them and all but one had rotted away. It was just friction holding the hoses in place. The salt also destroyed the hinges for the liftgate. My wife was opening the liftgate and the hinge snapped. The glass fell on her head and she literally received a concussion. I found that the aluminum hinge had turned into a white powder. There had been streaks of white previously on the glass. Now I know why. I also found the same issue occur on my 2011 Escape - so I guess this is a Ford thing. I agree that not having a convenient dipstick for the transmission is incredibly annoying.
Wow I had not noticed the aluminum corroding quite as bad here in Colorado! The v8's at least have all the timing components on the front of the motor where they belong! I just got an '06 Crown Vic Police Interceptor and it has a dipstick! Subscribe and check out the videos I'm doing on that one!
I have a 2010 V8 Explorer (the last of the V8's) and I had just about all the issues discussed. I brought it 2012 with exactly 48k miles and now I have 82k miles. I too have to keep filling the engine coolant tank constantly and keep wondering why? I don't see anything leaking or smell the coolant burning. Thanks for the tip. I took it to my mechanic to get the gear oil and transmission fluid changed and had to end up getting the rear differential rebuilt. And now I have to change those 2 front wheel bearings again. I have a dual temp. control and the front passenger side HVAC will start blowing hot air in the summer and cold air in the winter. I had the blend door motor and the entire HVAC assembly changed and the problem persists.
I replied to your comment before and now I have an update. My problem with the engine coolant running out of the reserve tank was due to my rear heater core. Had it changed 2 weeks ago and the coolant level hasn't gone down. Still dealing with the right side HVAC issue
@@hotrod4d That's 'cause they don't use salt on the roads out there, plus the dry climate. Amazing how long a car lasts out there bodywise compared to here in the rust belt where the road salt is used all winter long.
I have a V6, 2007 2WD with 120K miles. I've done front bearings, ball joints, sway bar links, alternator, radiator, and passenger side blend door. I had an issue with the transmission fluid because I had to put new cooler lines on when I did the radiator and I had a leak. Changing the transmission fluid isn't that bad; there are several good CZcams videos about it. If you go online and get a new plug and the fitting to hook your pump up to, make sure you get and Ford one. Doorman makes a plug but the center fitting is smaller than the OEM one so you need a different adapter. For a pump, I just use a 2 gallon garden sprayer, adapted to fit the center of the plug. The most important thing I found was that the car needs to be level.
I have a 2007 Explorer XLT V6 4WD That I'm hoping to hang on to for another 5 years Because I really like it. I have no issues with flaking Chrome at all, but it does eat front wheel bearings fairly regularly. I too have had to replace the thermostat fairly early on as well as the alternator and the starter. I am also on my 3rd or 4th rear wiper motor! Last year I had a water leak that turned the passenger side floor area into a small pond but I managed to fix that myself after a while. I hope I don't run into the timing chain problem.
I know on the v8 models you can change your timing chain tensioners without doing the whole timing job that will get you some more mileage. There is also a coolant bypass that likes to fail too that you can fix with simple stuff from a parts store. The video is on my page
Throw in mine. Plastic T to the front and rear heater goes out. No need to replace all the hose assembly. 3/4 brass T from a hardware store and three hose clamps for about 7 bucks. To get out the remains of the plastic T just squeeze the hose ends with pliers to crush the stuck plastic while pointing the hoses downward so plastic bits don't fall in. Might need to cut plastic collars, use side cutters. And yeah, replace the heater valve when you do that too, it's going to be the next weakest component. Tip I read online was replacing the radiator cap, going from 20 PSI to a 16. Just get one for a late 90s explorer, same fit. Supposed to reduce strain on all those lovely plastic coolant components. And yeah, the transmissions can be real bad. Mine lasted only 80K, but better than new since the rebuild with better parts.
Good video thanks for posting. I have a 2009 with 250K on it. Totally agree with the bearing issue, I've done my front drivers side 3 times. The rear bearings are a SOB to change as they are press fit and are a nightmare to get out. I think the 4.6 with the 6 speed is a little more durable than the V6 + 5 speed, my opinion of course. Haven't experienced the other issues.........yet! Had to replace the heater motor resistor which I believe is pretty common.
Your lucky if you made it to 250K on the same engine. Had to get a Jaspers engine at 200K on mine when the timing chain went bad and I am careful about oil changes. Trans rebuilt at 130K along with six bearing replacement but I do use a trailer often. 2010 XLT with the V6. Time for struts and brakes.
I got an 2010 Explorer 4.6L v8 with 238040 miles on it. So far I had a transmission and rear wheel hub assembly changed. I just keep the oil changed and tune up. I got it 7 years ago.
me again - I'm expecting in the 2010 (sealed) that tranny fluid has never been changed so at 132k tranny service is one of the first things on my list...
06 Eddie Bauer V8 here - it all started with radiator, then head gasket, AC blend doors front and rear AC, driver’s seat motor, leaky taillights and driving lights, leaking rain water from map lights (found fine crack in weld in front of the sunroof) - most all of this was fixed under CarMax warranty. I bought it with 80,000 and it now has 225,000. Since these repairs at 150,000 I’ve did all the wheel bearings and hubs on the front and a knuckle on the back.
Its funny, I own a 2008 ford explorer that I really like, I bought it in 2013 it had 104,000 and now has 265,000 and I have had exactly the same repairs that you have mentioned lol.
Forgot exhaust manifold leaks (at least with the V8) and 3rd row seating gearbox strips, need to replace the whole seat frame if you want to fix it. Also common to almost all Fords of the era, radio display quits working due to solder cracking. You can fix this if you are handy but it will happen.
I have a 2009 XLT V8 2WD. Bought it about 4-5 years ago with 205k miles for $3,500. Now has over 225k so I dont drive it too much. I've had to replace the radiator and front wheel bearings. The chrome on the front is coming off but not too badly to where I want to spend the money to replace it. The rear parking brake assembly is a PITA and I could not for the life of me get that top spring back on after replacing a broken wheel stud so I had to pay the shop a crazy amount to muscle it in for me . Yes the transmission is a PITA too. There is a dip stick essentially built into the cap which uses a 19mm wrench to open but its TIGHT in there and right by the cat so do it when its could but then you can only refill when its running for proper level. Also one of the blend doors went out but i jerry rigged it with a zip tie somehow. Its been a few years so I forgot exactly what the issue was. The second row seat passenger side also got stripped and wouldn't fold so I had to find a new handle replacement from the junkyard and now its working OK'ish but Im more careful about using it and make sure to slam it back before lifting the handle to fold it. Same issue on the Ford Flexes and I did a lot of research on their forums to figure out the issue with mines. Overall its been a good run around town car which is what i use it for. It does have a tow hitch but I've never used it. I like it sits up high even for a 2WD. V8 has good get up and go. I'm glad I have the V8 as at least for 2009, V8's only made up about 10% of the Explorers. My understanding is that the V8's also have the better stronger transmission as well.
You got lucky with the v8, I sold mine mainly because that trans has no dipstick and are ticking time bombs. I have a couple other videos on how to fix common problems with these. Keep an eye on your fuel pump and thermostat too, trust me
That Chrome has used call it, is not actually Chrome it's just vapor deposition on the part in an oven. The sending unit almost always goes bad because back about 2004 2005 they took the sulfur out of the fuel which stopped much of the lubrication that was in the fuel that lubricated those parts. Including the fuel pump. You can treat that by putting about 8 to 12 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil into your fuel at least once a month to keep them lubricated. Works wonderfully, and it also keeps your injectors running pretty good. B&M Transmissions makes a dipstick that you can actually put on that vehicle. Proper lubrication of this engine, I've seen them run 300000 miles without having to change a timing set.
Lol....i just bought one 2 weeks ago. 2010 limited v8. Its gonna need 2k at least to get it running strong again. But i like it and i paid cash for it....ill keep it for a few years. Or until the new 6th gen 4 runners comes out.
That plug next to the temp sensor can fail too. I had the retainer clip fail and the plug popped out. Good luck trying to find a replacement. I pulled one from a junk yard. Two actually, I wanted a spare. While we are on the subject of cooling systems; I'm surprised you didn't have to replace the radiator. That's it's own piece of hell. On mine, it's just a lot of piddly things that I'm constantly fixing: Blend door actuator, every door lock actuator, headlight switch assy, radio display, etc.
Oh yeah, Im glad the radiator never gave me problems. Do remember to replace the o-ring on the temp sensor or it will leak cus mine sure did after replacing the thermostat
For me: Radiator housing cracks. Replacement isn't terrible, but OEM isn't much better than off brand. Seemingly #1 issue. 80k Harmonic balancer/Crankshaft pulley: falls apart, common. ~95k Wheel Bearings went out for me too, 100k miles. Thermometer housing: out at 110k Running boards corrode quickly if in rust belt (motor breaks).
It must be a poor design feature that eats those wheel bearings up so bad and that overly complex plastic thermostat indeed sucks. I've heard about those radiators but all I ever had to replace was the thermostat and the coolant bypass fitting
Transmission lines I don’t like how it goes under the vehicle add to the front of the radiator on the backside of it that’s one thing I don’t like about the mercury mountaineer as a transmission lines goes towards the back of the radiator and comes out to the front bumper
I had to change my gear shift and instrument panel cover due to the chrome peeling off. The panel cover chrome "plating" was like a sharp piece of foil that will cut your finger
The 4.0L SOHC has been around since the late 90s. The timing chain issues were mostly solved by 2002. With regular oil changes the chains should last up to 300,000 miles, or about 1/2 the miles the in block cam 4.0s would go. There are actually 4 chains...crank to jack, jack to left bank, rear jack to right bank, and crank to balance shaft...just poor engineering, and yes, the engine has to be removed for rear chain replacement. The trannys were without the dipstick starting in '04 IIRC. Not too bad to service IF you have access to a lift, otherwise a real PITA. Noticed the chrome issue on the grille on my '07, but all else so far looks OK. The rear wheel bearings are indeed a PITA...I replaced 'em on an '04 without a press...not fun. In all, the 06-10 were considerably better than the 02-05s in reliability, especially when it came to the rear differentials.
@@hotrod4d The 06-10s are quite nice. I like my '07 Eddie Bauer...sweet vehicle. THAT one stays in the garage all winter...the body's perfect and I intend to keep it that way. Also have a 2000 XLT - great car, the automatic 4x4 makes it a beast in the snow, but sadly, the body's rusting away. The 02-05s were good ones to stay away from due to rear differential issues plus being even worse on wheel bearings than the 06-10s (had an '04...complete lemon, was glad to trade that for the '07...BIG difference, though the body is mostly the same); don't care for the '11s on...I like the exploders that have a frame under 'em.
@HotRod4D your knowledge clearly dwarfs mine by far... I was surprised to see anything positive on 2002-5's. Maybe under 100k is positive... My experience is hugely negative.
@@eyleblanc A number of the 5r55s trannys had pin bore issues. The trans housing castings were mostly made of a softer grade of aluminum. The servo pins would egg out the pin bores causing a loss of hydraulic pressure needed to hold the bands against the hub, causing the trans to slip in O/D, shift harshly, or shift back and forth rapidly, wearing out the bands more quickly. The timing chains on the V6 beginning in '02 had an updated hydraulic tensioner which mostly took care of the chain issues. As for the V8s, I believe Ford started using cam phasers on them during that time, but not sure exactly when. On 1/2 ton pickups, it was in '04. Those were good to avoid due to the failure rate. The 2nd gen exploder with either an in block cam V6 or the V8 is a good choice. Those engines had been around for decades and were virtually bulletproof. Very few issues with those.
I have the 07 Explorer, I had to replace the shift solenoid last year. Now that horrible wrench light is on throwing code P0713 & B229B. I have been looking for TFT sensor info and cannot find the part anywhere. I've also gotten different answers on the location as well. Any info you may have to help would be greatly appreciated!
Best bet is to call a good transmission company or dealership tech help line because I am finding two different locations for that sensor! And the other b229b code is for your airbag system so maybe make sure your battery terminals are tight and charging system are ok cus sometimes that will cause the computer to throw a bunch of codes! Let me know if that works and thank you so much for the view!
Any one have issues with limp mode with this cars ? I believe that the water leak which falls from the wiper motor area right onto the coil 4 8 and 7s spark plug well causes the pcm to fry if you don't find the leak in time.
Wow good info! My crown vic does a similar thing on cylinder 8 that put it into limp mode. Any major misfire will put the computer into limp mode. Oh and when your bearings go out they will destroy your wheel speed sensors and also throw you into limp mode
I try not to let my vehicles go more than 50k miles without doing a fluid and/or filter swap. If I buy a used vehicle, I almost always do the fluid immediately
Had to replace the thermostat housing and the radiator in my 08. My biggest issue is my driver side floorboard is soaking wet! I’ve only had it for a year, but it only seems to get soaked in the winter time. I’ve taken it through a car wash and also through a heavy rain storm, and it has not gotten wet during those moments, but for some reason once temperatures dropped, it gets soaked after snow and all that fun stuff. Took it to a windshield place for a water test, and they ruled out the windshield. It has a new indoor seal, so that’s not it either. I’m just not sure what the problem is
Yeah the transmissions in these models had no dipstick and a funky drain/fill plug so you cant monitor the fluid levels or condition as good. Still a pretty good all-around vehicle
NOBODY makes vehicles with trans dipsticks anymore...lol....everything has been Sealed for the past 15 years.....the Ford trans is Super easy to check, it's literally a Torx bit screw at operating temp.....
Well start by changing the oil because this explorer barely ran when I got it because the oil was so bad. Then maybe check and see if spark plugs are fouled or if you locked up the engine. Kinda hard to determine from a simple description but good luck my friend!
Especially your transmission lights when you’re trying to take that radiator off radiator and I hate how those lines run underneath the vehicle because it’s on the bottom of the radiator of a tended to accidentally lock those lines off and I lost all the transmission fluid because of the stupid lines being a terrible design I do not like that on that on that type of vehicle on the 2010 mercury mountaineer so yeah
That is a new one, although I did have problems with my doors and locks. My hatch glass would always open from me pressing the button on the fob in my pocket 😅
At 150,000 miles everything started falling apart. Right now I'm busy chasing wires hunting a short to the PCM as I have a pesky P0563 code. I'm gonna take this thing to Vegas to that place that lets you drive a tank around and over cars.
Damn... I just bought a really sharp lookin 08' explorer limited. I have the 05' Eddie bauer. My 05 runs really good, but I'm starting to hear the timing chain. So, am I gonna have the same issue with this new one I just bought?( 08' explorer limited)
Its the v8.. the crazy part. Im not a ford guy. Im a GMC man.(lol) I'm just comin across great deal deals on these cars. and they really sharp looking vehicles. Thanx for making this video
If it's a V8 not likely. V6 is more common up until 2010. The explorers 2011 to 2015 are absolutely terrible. The ones you have were the last good ones.
Was considering a 4th gen (when my 2nd gen finally wears out) BUT you lost me on the no-dipstick tranny. NOT going to the shop to check my tranny fluid level!
08 v8 having issue where i get no crank no starts just randomly even tho i replaced started and battery and then the a/c only works whenever it wants too randomly bought practically everything new, a/c compressor and everything else but it still somewhat seems to fail, everything is leading up to a faulty fuse box atm but tbh idk. Lastly it will randomly shut off when i would be driving very slow or idle. If anyone can help it would be very much appreciated.
It does sound like you have some electrical issues going on and I've seen Ford fuse boxes fail before. Have a qualified shop diagnose it to save you headache, trust me
About the shutting off, might need to replace the purge canister valve. its under the hood driver side. easy to get to as its all by itself. just a few clips.
WELL I PURCHASE A 2007 V6 FORD EXPLORER FROM A BUY HERE PAY HERE 🤣 FEELING LIKE A FOOL , I'M STILL MAKING PAYMENTS THE TRANSMISSION WENT OUT THE NEXT MONTH..CAR LOT WON'T TAKE IT BACK , WON'T HELP ME FIX IT 😪 SO I TOOK IT TO THE WORST MECHANIC ON EARTH AFTER PAYING $2,000 IT'S RUNNING WORST THE LINING IS OFF TRACK WHERE U CHANGE GEARS , SOMETIMES IT WON'T CRANK . IT SOUNDS LIKE I'M DRAGGING SOMETHING, WHEN U PUT IT IN GEAR THE WHOLE TRUCK JUMPS .. I FEEL LIKE A COMPLETE FOOL BUYING THIS LEMON 🍋 WITH ALL THESE ISSUES .. AN IT'S HARD TO FIND A GOOD MECHANIC
@@osamashehadeh6113 I'm curious as to what problems to encountered. There's so much room to work in these older vehicles, even with the LS swap it shouldn't be too bad
I own a 2006 xlt model. WORST CAR I HAVE OWNED. the car shuts off at random times and when the car is not being accelerated the car will do a violent shake before it shuts off and indicates that the cars charging system failed. I have taken it in to countless places and have been told that the car is fine
Wow now that's a crazy problem to have! Definitely look to the wiring, possibly a bad fuse box or engine management computer. Also maybe look to all the power leads from your battery and starter to the fuse-box. Fords electronics aren't the greatest
Wow! Thank you so much for all the views everyone! Check all my top 5 videos czcams.com/play/PLibjtBi-Cv8OKD-BieGF6h4gVxYXI_1Yh.html
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My '08 explorer it's about to hit 250k miles and I'm pretty happy with it, I bought it with 108k miles on it and imported it to mexico(I live there). I can list the issues I have had, the first one was a water hose(the one before the water pump) that was leaking a lot haha, just right after I bought it, after that I didn't have any issues till around 200k miles. Here I go with the list.
.
.
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-Throttle body started failing and was quite dangerous, suddenly accelerating out of nowhere, turns out it gets dirty, just cleaned with a brake cleaner, do not take it apart because is balanced with the TPS(throttle positioning sensor), also I don't recomend replacing it with a new one(unless is a motorcraft) because most third party wont last even a year.
-Heater: the blend door actuator broke down, I don't remember milega but was a quick fix, just took a driver side panel and couple bolts off. (110$ usd for the actuator)
-A/C compressor (replaced it) (320$ usd)
-Radiator break down recently and replaced it with a third party one, rebuilding it wasn't worth it. (~150$ usd)
-Tie rods, replaced all of them twice, but I take it as a normal wear and tear
-Interior: can't recline backseat(passenger side), not a big deal, I might fix it later haha
-Stereo: stock stereo screen is failing, sometimes turns off(just the screen), found it in explorerforums that is just a matter of taking it appart and soldering the contacts but Im looking for a new aftermarket stereo
-I guess thats it, engine and transmission are still pretty good, I change the transmission oil anually(transmission's mechanic charges me around 15$usd+ I buy the motorcraft mercon V synthetic oil)
-whoevere is reading this, thanks for reading
Wow, good move going to mexico! Ive been thinking about it myself
@@hotrod4d Why?
@@vtr279 just tired of all the politics up here and i want to retire somewhere warm lol
Bought mine at 150k miles, at what mileage did you start to do the transmission fluid annually? Thanks!
Edit: Also, my throttle body will do the opposite. While accelerating, will suddenly decelerate, big loss of acceleration. Then, it will jump back up to “normal”
Thank you
I have the 2006 4.6L 3V, 4x4 with 145k miles. Replaced engine phasers and timing chain set, exhaust studs, throttle body, fuel pump, ignition coils, spark plugs, alternator, engine and trans mounts, front stabilizer bushings, rear differential carrier bushings, radiator, engine oil pan gasket, transmission bulkhead gasket, lower control arms, rear HVAC actuators, 3rd row seat motors, sun visors, and other normal wear parts like brakes, tires, drive belt, and complete fluid changes. It’s a great running car but needs a lot of attention.
@@stevel6337 yup, thank goodness you got the V8 model!
I have a 2006 Ford Explorer and we got it pretty cheap because it had a bad transmission…but now that we got it fixed up it is a great first car for me!!
That's awesome! Just keep the fluid changed and that transmission will last a long time! They really are great vehicles, thanks for the view!
Still got it? How does it drive? Does it feel heavy?
@@mr.2cents.846 well I got gifted a new car but it ran amazingly once we fixed it up. Ran great for the 5 years I had it. What exactly do you mean by heavy?
I got a real lemon! Explorer 2007 xlt 285697 miles and 1 issue. Shift solenoid went bad at 201000 miles. Chrome is beginning to flake but Michigan rust will probably win the race, Also 2 catalytic converters, many brake jobs, dozens of tires, lost a skid plate off-roading, and 14-15 miles per gallon mileage. What a piece of work! I'll never buy another one unless I can get a winch mount for it.
Yeah the transmissions are a super weak point! I think if you gap plugs just over factory specs you will get better mileage too!
I've got the 2010 V8 and have found it to be overall pretty reliable. Like you, I've had to replace the front wheel bearings twice. It wouldn't be so bad, but where I live they use a lot of salt in the winter. Removing the bearings was the most difficult repair I've ever done.
My Explorer has a rear climate system which means coolant lines running the whole length of the vehicle. For years, I found that I was having to add coolant every 3 months. Eventually, I traced the problem to the clamps on these lines. There are about 12 of them and all but one had rotted away. It was just friction holding the hoses in place.
The salt also destroyed the hinges for the liftgate. My wife was opening the liftgate and the hinge snapped. The glass fell on her head and she literally received a concussion. I found that the aluminum hinge had turned into a white powder. There had been streaks of white previously on the glass. Now I know why. I also found the same issue occur on my 2011 Escape - so I guess this is a Ford thing.
I agree that not having a convenient dipstick for the transmission is incredibly annoying.
Wow I had not noticed the aluminum corroding quite as bad here in Colorado! The v8's at least have all the timing components on the front of the motor where they belong! I just got an '06 Crown Vic Police Interceptor and it has a dipstick! Subscribe and check out the videos I'm doing on that one!
I have a 2010 V8 Explorer (the last of the V8's) and I had just about all the issues discussed. I brought it 2012 with exactly 48k miles and now I have 82k miles.
I too have to keep filling the engine coolant tank constantly and keep wondering why? I don't see anything leaking or smell the coolant burning. Thanks for the tip.
I took it to my mechanic to get the gear oil and transmission fluid changed and had to end up getting the rear differential rebuilt.
And now I have to change those 2 front wheel bearings again.
I have a dual temp. control and the front passenger side HVAC will start blowing hot air in the summer and cold air in the winter. I had the blend door motor and the entire HVAC assembly changed and the problem persists.
I replied to your comment before and now I have an update. My problem with the engine coolant running out of the reserve tank was due to my rear heater core.
Had it changed 2 weeks ago and the coolant level hasn't gone down.
Still dealing with the right side HVAC issue
@@hotrod4d That's 'cause they don't use salt on the roads out there, plus the dry climate. Amazing how long a car lasts out there bodywise compared to here in the rust belt where the road salt is used all winter long.
I have a V6, 2007 2WD with 120K miles. I've done front bearings, ball joints, sway bar links, alternator, radiator, and passenger side blend door. I had an issue with the transmission fluid because I had to put new cooler lines on when I did the radiator and I had a leak. Changing the transmission fluid isn't that bad; there are several good CZcams videos about it. If you go online and get a new plug and the fitting to hook your pump up to, make sure you get and Ford one. Doorman makes a plug but the center fitting is smaller than the OEM one so you need a different adapter. For a pump, I just use a 2 gallon garden sprayer, adapted to fit the center of the plug. The most important thing I found was that the car needs to be level.
Good advice! You're braver than most, handling that fluid swap yourself!
Thanks for the info, had a few of them issues with the same vehicle/year
I replaced the plastic thermostat housing with Aluminium one which is available in markets now and works great its been 2 yrs already now
Oh cool! Those plastic thermostat housings are a pain!
I replaced the front chrome grill for a black one and the door handles and mirrors
Good Idea! If I had gotten the v8 model and kept it, a repaint or replacement would definitely have happened!
I have a 2007 Explorer XLT V6 4WD That I'm hoping to hang on to for another 5 years Because I really like it.
I have no issues with flaking Chrome at all, but it does eat front wheel bearings fairly regularly. I too have had to replace the thermostat fairly early on as well as the alternator and the starter. I am also on my 3rd or 4th rear wiper motor!
Last year I had a water leak that turned the passenger side floor area into a small pond but I managed to fix that myself after a while.
I hope I don't run into the timing chain problem.
I know on the v8 models you can change your timing chain tensioners without doing the whole timing job that will get you some more mileage. There is also a coolant bypass that likes to fail too that you can fix with simple stuff from a parts store. The video is on my page
@@hotrod4d Thanks!
Throw in mine.
Plastic T to the front and rear heater goes out. No need to replace all the hose assembly. 3/4 brass T from a hardware store and three hose clamps for about 7 bucks. To get out the remains of the plastic T just squeeze the hose ends with pliers to crush the stuck plastic while pointing the hoses downward so plastic bits don't fall in. Might need to cut plastic collars, use side cutters. And yeah, replace the heater valve when you do that too, it's going to be the next weakest component.
Tip I read online was replacing the radiator cap, going from 20 PSI to a 16. Just get one for a late 90s explorer, same fit. Supposed to reduce strain on all those lovely plastic coolant components.
And yeah, the transmissions can be real bad. Mine lasted only 80K, but better than new since the rebuild with better parts.
Yup I had the same heater hose fail on mine too, made a video of it. Thank god I never had a transmission fully go out
Good video thanks for posting. I have a 2009 with 250K on it. Totally agree with the bearing issue, I've done my front drivers side 3 times. The rear bearings are a SOB to change as they are press fit and are a nightmare to get out. I think the 4.6 with the 6 speed is a little more durable than the V6 + 5 speed, my opinion of course. Haven't experienced the other issues.........yet! Had to replace the heater motor resistor which I believe is pretty common.
Ouch, i always dreaded removing a ear bearing. Also keep an eye on your heater bypass hoses, I have a video on that too
Your lucky if you made it to 250K on the same engine. Had to get a Jaspers engine at 200K on mine when the timing chain went bad and I am careful about oil changes. Trans rebuilt at 130K along with six bearing replacement but I do use a trailer often. 2010 XLT with the V6. Time for struts and brakes.
@@jamesholland1727 yup, that timing chain is the achilles heel of this engine
Very useful video, watching at 1.5x speed is perfect for me.
I found it useless.
Get the 4.6 v8 instead, you get more power and if need to do timing is lot easier.
Yup i everything is right up front, as it should be!
Too bad I bought the 4.0 2 years ago. Done had timing kit redone and it's still not running right 🤣
I got an 2010 Explorer 4.6L v8 with 238040 miles on it. So far I had a transmission and rear wheel hub assembly changed. I just keep the oil changed and tune up. I got it 7 years ago.
Heck yeah man, the v8's are even better! Way easier to do the timing 🤣🤣
Tomorrow I'm looking at a 2010 V8 132k considering purchasing and selling my 97 V8 5.0 AWD...
me again - I'm expecting in the 2010 (sealed) that tranny fluid has never been changed so at 132k tranny service is one of the first things on my list...
wheel hubs, thermostat , sway bar links, blender door actuator
Did three out of four of those! Good times!
06 Eddie Bauer V8 here - it all started with radiator, then head gasket, AC blend doors front and rear AC, driver’s seat motor, leaky taillights and driving lights, leaking rain water from map lights (found fine crack in weld in front of the sunroof) - most all of this was fixed under CarMax warranty. I bought it with 80,000 and it now has 225,000. Since these repairs at 150,000 I’ve did all the wheel bearings and hubs on the front and a knuckle on the back.
Yeah those hubs are aren't to bad just expensive. Heard those radiators are tons of fun but luckily I only ever had thermostat problems
Its funny, I own a 2008 ford explorer that I really like, I bought it in 2013 it had 104,000 and now has 265,000 and I have had exactly the same repairs that you have mentioned lol.
These are great vehicles if maintained! That pesky timing job is the real Achilles heel to these vehicles
Forgot exhaust manifold leaks (at least with the V8) and 3rd row seating gearbox strips, need to replace the whole seat frame if you want to fix it. Also common to almost all Fords of the era, radio display quits working due to solder cracking. You can fix this if you are handy but it will happen.
Good tips! I did experience those manifold leaks when I worked for access-a-ride and worked on the disabled vans. Not enough exhaust hangers
I have a 2009 XLT V8 2WD. Bought it about 4-5 years ago with 205k miles for $3,500. Now has over 225k so I dont drive it too much. I've had to replace the radiator and front wheel bearings. The chrome on the front is coming off but not too badly to where I want to spend the money to replace it. The rear parking brake assembly is a PITA and I could not for the life of me get that top spring back on after replacing a broken wheel stud so I had to pay the shop a crazy amount to muscle it in for me .
Yes the transmission is a PITA too. There is a dip stick essentially built into the cap which uses a 19mm wrench to open but its TIGHT in there and right by the cat so do it when its could but then you can only refill when its running for proper level.
Also one of the blend doors went out but i jerry rigged it with a zip tie somehow. Its been a few years so I forgot exactly what the issue was.
The second row seat passenger side also got stripped and wouldn't fold so I had to find a new handle replacement from the junkyard and now its working OK'ish but Im more careful about using it and make sure to slam it back before lifting the handle to fold it. Same issue on the Ford Flexes and I did a lot of research on their forums to figure out the issue with mines.
Overall its been a good run around town car which is what i use it for. It does have a tow hitch but I've never used it. I like it sits up high even for a 2WD. V8 has good get up and go. I'm glad I have the V8 as at least for 2009, V8's only made up about 10% of the Explorers. My understanding is that the V8's also have the better stronger transmission as well.
You got lucky with the v8, I sold mine mainly because that trans has no dipstick and are ticking time bombs. I have a couple other videos on how to fix common problems with these. Keep an eye on your fuel pump and thermostat too, trust me
With the exception of the transmission I have all the same issues. But my rear differential had to be replaced at $2400.00.
Oof glad that never went out on mine! Thanks for the view!
That Chrome has used call it, is not actually Chrome it's just vapor deposition on the part in an oven. The sending unit almost always goes bad because back about 2004 2005 they took the sulfur out of the fuel which stopped much of the lubrication that was in the fuel that lubricated those parts. Including the fuel pump. You can treat that by putting about 8 to 12 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil into your fuel at least once a month to keep them lubricated. Works wonderfully, and it also keeps your injectors running pretty good.
B&M Transmissions makes a dipstick that you can actually put on that vehicle.
Proper lubrication of this engine, I've seen them run 300000 miles without having to change a timing set.
Wow that dipstick kit is totally worth it on this vehicle! They really are great vehicles despite the timing design
Thanku about the transmission part I’m doing that right now with my exsplorer
Good idea! They really can last a long time with regular maintenance!
Lol....i just bought one 2 weeks ago. 2010 limited v8. Its gonna need 2k at least to get it running strong again. But i like it and i paid cash for it....ill keep it for a few years. Or until the new 6th gen 4 runners comes out.
The v8 models are definitely good rigs and not near as big of a pain to do the timing service on them!
I am dreaming of a 2010 Adrenalin with V8 and navigation package. 💙😎👍👍
Definitely look for the v8!
That plug next to the temp sensor can fail too. I had the retainer clip fail and the plug popped out. Good luck trying to find a replacement. I pulled one from a junk yard. Two actually, I wanted a spare. While we are on the subject of cooling systems; I'm surprised you didn't have to replace the radiator. That's it's own piece of hell.
On mine, it's just a lot of piddly things that I'm constantly fixing: Blend door actuator, every door lock actuator, headlight switch assy, radio display, etc.
Oh yeah, Im glad the radiator never gave me problems. Do remember to replace the o-ring on the temp sensor or it will leak cus mine sure did after replacing the thermostat
@@kypertrax wow! That's quite a bit to happen at that mileage! Must have been built on a friday 😂
For me:
Radiator housing cracks. Replacement isn't terrible, but OEM isn't much better than off brand. Seemingly #1 issue. 80k
Harmonic balancer/Crankshaft pulley: falls apart, common. ~95k
Wheel Bearings went out for me too, 100k miles.
Thermometer housing: out at 110k
Running boards corrode quickly if in rust belt (motor breaks).
It must be a poor design feature that eats those wheel bearings up so bad and that overly complex plastic thermostat indeed sucks. I've heard about those radiators but all I ever had to replace was the thermostat and the coolant bypass fitting
Nice car
Thanks for posting
Of course thanks, for watching. I have videos of how to do most of these repairs plus more on my channel
I have the 2008 V8. 160k miles and still works fine.
The v8's were way better! Sounds like it still has plenty of life left! Thanks for watching, subscribe and check out my other videos!
Transmission lines I don’t like how it goes under the vehicle add to the front of the radiator on the backside of it that’s one thing I don’t like about the mercury mountaineer as a transmission lines goes towards the back of the radiator and comes out to the front bumper
Thank you sir!!
Your welcome, thanks for stopping by my channel!
my 06 with 191,298 miles in Wisconsin, has no chrome issues other than the bottom of the front grill has little bumps.
Yeah some models get it worse than others but those little bumps are how it starts
Never had any issue with chrome coming off my 06 Eddie Bauer. The only flow in that is a tad on the gear shift. It isn’t noticeable.
I had to change my gear shift and instrument panel cover due to the chrome peeling off.
The panel cover chrome "plating" was like a sharp piece of foil that will cut your finger
You can check the fluid. There is a dipstick on the transmission
Enlighten me where this district is on an 08 or 2010 explorer please! Cus factory ones commonly do not, sir
Where is it on a 2006 Ford explorer Eddie bour edition
The 4.0L SOHC has been around since the late 90s. The timing chain issues were mostly solved by 2002. With regular oil changes the chains should last up to 300,000 miles, or about 1/2 the miles the in block cam 4.0s would go. There are actually 4 chains...crank to jack, jack to left bank, rear jack to right bank, and crank to balance shaft...just poor engineering, and yes, the engine has to be removed for rear chain replacement. The trannys were without the dipstick starting in '04 IIRC. Not too bad to service IF you have access to a lift, otherwise a real PITA. Noticed the chrome issue on the grille on my '07, but all else so far looks OK. The rear wheel bearings are indeed a PITA...I replaced 'em on an '04 without a press...not fun. In all, the 06-10 were considerably better than the 02-05s in reliability, especially when it came to the rear differentials.
Honestly, other than the timing and transmission not having a dipstick these are some of the best cars ive owned
@@hotrod4d The 06-10s are quite nice. I like my '07 Eddie Bauer...sweet vehicle. THAT one stays in the garage all winter...the body's perfect and I intend to keep it that way. Also have a 2000 XLT - great car, the automatic 4x4 makes it a beast in the snow, but sadly, the body's rusting away. The 02-05s were good ones to stay away from due to rear differential issues plus being even worse on wheel bearings than the 06-10s (had an '04...complete lemon, was glad to trade that for the '07...BIG difference, though the body is mostly the same); don't care for the '11s on...I like the exploders that have a frame under 'em.
@@dave8168 definately, those new ones are way more expensive to work on
@HotRod4D your knowledge clearly dwarfs mine by far... I was surprised to see anything positive on 2002-5's. Maybe under 100k is positive... My experience is hugely negative.
@@eyleblanc A number of the 5r55s trannys had pin bore issues. The trans housing castings were mostly made of a softer grade of aluminum. The servo pins would egg out the pin bores causing a loss of hydraulic pressure needed to hold the bands against the hub, causing the trans to slip in O/D, shift harshly, or shift back and forth rapidly, wearing out the bands more quickly.
The timing chains on the V6 beginning in '02 had an updated hydraulic tensioner which mostly took care of the chain issues. As for the V8s, I believe Ford started using cam phasers on them during that time, but not sure exactly when. On 1/2 ton pickups, it was in '04. Those were good to avoid due to the failure rate.
The 2nd gen exploder with either an in block cam V6 or the V8 is a good choice. Those engines had been around for decades and were virtually bulletproof. Very few issues with those.
Thanks definitely selling mine now
Good thinking!
I have the 07 Explorer, I had to replace the shift solenoid last year. Now that horrible wrench light is on throwing code P0713 & B229B. I have been looking for TFT sensor info and cannot find the part anywhere. I've also gotten different answers on the location as well. Any info you may have to help would be greatly appreciated!
Best bet is to call a good transmission company or dealership tech help line because I am finding two different locations for that sensor! And the other b229b code is for your airbag system so maybe make sure your battery terminals are tight and charging system are ok cus sometimes that will cause the computer to throw a bunch of codes! Let me know if that works and thank you so much for the view!
I had a 2006. I put 301,000 on it. The problems that I had, the chrome came off the shifter and the tranny lost reverse.
Yup I lost some chrome on one of my shifters but thank god I never had tranny issues!
Any one have issues with limp mode with this cars ?
I believe that the water leak which falls from the wiper motor area right onto the coil 4 8 and 7s spark plug well causes the pcm to fry if you don't find the leak in time.
Wow good info! My crown vic does a similar thing on cylinder 8 that put it into limp mode. Any major misfire will put the computer into limp mode. Oh and when your bearings go out they will destroy your wheel speed sensors and also throw you into limp mode
GREAT VIDEO,I HAVE THE SAME EXPLORER, REALLY LIKE IT. HOW OFTEN DO OR DID YOU CHANGE YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID ON YOUR EXPLORER?
I try not to let my vehicles go more than 50k miles without doing a fluid and/or filter swap. If I buy a used vehicle, I almost always do the fluid immediately
Had to replace the thermostat housing and the radiator in my 08. My biggest issue is my driver side floorboard is soaking wet! I’ve only had it for a year, but it only seems to get soaked in the winter time. I’ve taken it through a car wash and also through a heavy rain storm, and it has not gotten wet during those moments, but for some reason once temperatures dropped, it gets soaked after snow and all that fun stuff. Took it to a windshield place for a water test, and they ruled out the windshield. It has a new indoor seal, so that’s not it either. I’m just not sure what the problem is
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but that sounds like a heater core
Rocker panel damage
Got mines cheap wont even drive but runs good hopefully a new transmission will solve that i hope so
Yeah the transmissions in these models had no dipstick and a funky drain/fill plug so you cant monitor the fluid levels or condition as good. Still a pretty good all-around vehicle
I never would've bought a 2006 Explorer if I knew it didn't have a transmission dip stick
Right! Good vehicles but I don't want to buy another one!
NOBODY makes vehicles with trans dipsticks anymore...lol....everything has been Sealed for the past 15 years.....the Ford trans is Super easy to check, it's literally a Torx bit screw at operating temp.....
I took 3 months without changing oil for Ford Explorer 2009 and my engine not starting, what can I do?
Well start by changing the oil because this explorer barely ran when I got it because the oil was so bad. Then maybe check and see if spark plugs are fouled or if you locked up the engine. Kinda hard to determine from a simple description but good luck my friend!
Especially your transmission lights when you’re trying to take that radiator off radiator and I hate how those lines run underneath the vehicle because it’s on the bottom of the radiator of a tended to accidentally lock those lines off and I lost all the transmission fluid because of the stupid lines being a terrible design I do not like that on that on that type of vehicle on the 2010 mercury mountaineer so yeah
Yup the transmission was the main reason I sold this vehicle
I have videos here on the channel about how to fix many of these common problems!
I'm having rear hatch problem my hatch keep opening
That is a new one, although I did have problems with my doors and locks. My hatch glass would always open from me pressing the button on the fob in my pocket 😅
Never liked the grille on these things, too much chrome those days of Ford.
Right, some simple black abs could have saved them time and money
Are these explorers gas tank supposed to fill up on 30 dollars ?
I believe they have a 22.5 gallon tank, so with today's gas prices thats just a bit over $70 to fill it
The first time I checked the Transmission fluid level and had to crawl under the explorer, I sold my Ford stock because to hell with their engineers.
Hahaha that's the best reason I've heard yet! I won't own a vehicle I can't monitor and maintain properly
At 150,000 miles everything started falling apart. Right now I'm busy chasing wires hunting a short to the PCM as I have a pesky P0563 code. I'm gonna take this thing to Vegas to that place that lets you drive a tank around and over cars.
@@TheShanegrila dang Ford's and their electronics! Make a video when you crush it!
I have replaced my time chain aduster thrice now on my 2005 explorer
Good idea, the timing system on these is complex
Damn... I just bought a really sharp lookin 08' explorer limited. I have the 05' Eddie bauer. My 05 runs really good, but I'm starting to hear the timing chain. So, am I gonna have the same issue with this new one I just bought?( 08' explorer limited)
More than likely if it has the v-6. The v-8's are a bit easier to do the timing on since it is all in the front
Its the v8.. the crazy part. Im not a ford guy. Im a GMC man.(lol) I'm just comin across great deal deals on these cars. and they really sharp looking vehicles. Thanx for making this video
@@lbsws405ablethank you! Same here, this was my second one and I was never a ford guy either, mostly GM stuff like my v8 swapped blazer
If it's a V8 not likely. V6 is more common up until 2010. The explorers 2011 to 2015 are absolutely terrible. The ones you have were the last good ones.
@@ramanpreciado2241 well, so far the car has 166000 miles on it and it rides like a magic carpet.. I'm happy with it so far.
Was considering a 4th gen (when my 2nd gen finally wears out) BUT you lost me on the no-dipstick tranny. NOT going to the shop to check my tranny fluid level!
Yup its one of the major reasons why I probly won't buy another one of these!
I have a 2010 XLT sport, do all these explorer's seem like it takes takes a couple cranks to turn over ???
Mine would usually fire right up. They do have a feature where it only fires once you engage then release the key
ford says you have to pull the engine to fix the timing
Yeah its near impossible to do it any other way. Hence why I parted ways with this beast 😂
08 v8 having issue where i get no crank no starts just randomly even tho i replaced started and battery and then the a/c only works whenever it wants too randomly bought practically everything new, a/c compressor and everything else but it still somewhat seems to fail, everything is leading up to a faulty fuse box atm but tbh idk. Lastly it will randomly shut off when i would be driving very slow or idle. If anyone can help it would be very much appreciated.
It does sound like you have some electrical issues going on and I've seen Ford fuse boxes fail before. Have a qualified shop diagnose it to save you headache, trust me
About the shutting off, might need to replace the purge canister valve. its under the hood driver side. easy to get to as its all by itself. just a few clips.
You forgot about the radiator LOL
Surprisingly, I never had a radiator fail on me in one of these! I have heard other horror stories though!
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WELL I PURCHASE A 2007 V6 FORD EXPLORER FROM A BUY HERE PAY HERE 🤣 FEELING LIKE A FOOL , I'M STILL MAKING PAYMENTS THE TRANSMISSION WENT OUT THE NEXT MONTH..CAR LOT WON'T TAKE IT BACK , WON'T HELP ME FIX IT 😪 SO I TOOK IT TO THE WORST MECHANIC ON EARTH AFTER PAYING $2,000 IT'S RUNNING WORST THE LINING IS OFF TRACK WHERE U CHANGE GEARS , SOMETIMES IT WON'T CRANK . IT SOUNDS LIKE I'M DRAGGING SOMETHING, WHEN U PUT IT IN GEAR THE WHOLE TRUCK JUMPS .. I FEEL LIKE A COMPLETE FOOL BUYING THIS LEMON 🍋 WITH ALL THESE ISSUES .. AN IT'S HARD TO FIND A GOOD MECHANIC
Best advice is pay a good mechanic the extra money to fix it right if you want to keep it. So sorry to hear about the bad luck with the car lot 😕
This the worst car in the whole world when it comes to the transmission.
Really? Figured it would be like most other Chevy's and be easy
@hotrod4d it's really difficult and costly to fix
@@osamashehadeh6113 I'm curious as to what problems to encountered. There's so much room to work in these older vehicles, even with the LS swap it shouldn't be too bad
I own a 2006 xlt model. WORST CAR I HAVE OWNED. the car shuts off at random times and when the car is not being accelerated the car will do a violent shake before it shuts off and indicates that the cars charging system failed. I have taken it in to countless places and have been told that the car is fine
Wow now that's a crazy problem to have! Definitely look to the wiring, possibly a bad fuse box or engine management computer. Also maybe look to all the power leads from your battery and starter to the fuse-box. Fords electronics aren't the greatest
l got v8 is beter
Yeah the v8 models are awesome!
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