Chris, thanks for the great and informative videos. They make me feel really lazy for just sitting here and watching them (just kidding) I've got plenty to do, including repair and setup work.
Glad I found your channel! What I really like about about your channel is right to the point helpful, "I make money building and selling guitars, not off my channel" business sense. Please correct me if that is a incorrect impression. I am learning a lot of good techniques from you. Thank you!
Have you ever tried fumes of solvents for smaller repair to kinda re-flow parts of a clearcoat? It's just triggered a memory snippet but not from shellac but I think for nitrocellulose finishes. Maybe there is one you can use for some Jobs with other finishes as well. It was like a cotton ball in a pipette-bottle to huff it at the surface.
I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your vast knowledge in this incredibly challenging art form. My question to you is this: Is it possible to really achieve a high gloss shine without a buffing wheel. I've tried all the 3M compounds and buffing foam pads and it just never gets there. Any suggestion would be fantastic. Thanks again, Chris. You make it look effortless and I, for one, know that it is not.
The only suggestion I can offer is to get a buffing machine. I tried other methods, but they never worked for me. When people say you can get professional results without a buffing machine, they are stretching the truth a bit.
@@douglassloan6831 Check out Chris' video on his machine builds. Make one that fits your needs instead of that overpriced downgraded Mac'n'Cheese stuff.
@@HighlineGuitars... am a subscriber and greatly appreciate all your tips and knowledge sharing, especially for those of us who inclined & gifted sufficiently enough to be "do it yourselfers" with just about anything and everything. lol With regards to polishing and buffing, I Do have two commercial pedestal buffers (Baldor's - 1.5 & 3hp) as I use to do custom Metal polishing and buffing... but never have done wood finishes. One of my basses (Sterling Sub 4) has the "satin" dark (maple?) finish, and I would like to buffing out to At Least, a semi-gloss or a high gloss - IF possible. Do you have a experience with that, and IF So.... what type of buff wheels have you used and what polishing compound did you use with those wheels? I have several hundred pounds of various Bar compounds for various metals and also some for certain types of plastics.... but, nothing for wood or stained /varnished(?/?) wood.... any suggestions or shared experience would be great & greatly appreciated. Thanks again for all that you help us with. PS: Modern Drummer Magazine did a 4 page story on my Cymbal refinishing and Mirror Polishing work back in 1994 (Oct/Nov.).
Great information. My chip is in a poly finish guitar that’s also painted daphne blue. Would you suggest applying the poly first to build up the chip space and then applying paint to the poly? Can paint go into poly? Thanks !
@@HighlineGuitars Hmm not sure. Its a 2004 Esp Eclipse japan made. It is like and amber hue over the white binding. Im only familiar with nitro and not these super hard polys
With all the possible finishes out there how is one supposed to know what type of paint was used on a guitar? I've a 91 IBZ USA custom shop RG with some very healthy chipped areas. 3 layer effects. What would the clear coat be?
Hello sir. Thanks for your video from Germany! Any chance of sending you a picture of my guitar? I'd like to know if you think this method could work on the damage I ve got. Cheers!
Be careful with CA glue on Polyurethane it can burn the finish leaving dark stains. It happened to me several times. Applying the required amount of glue in several pass minimizes the risks.
@@HighlineGuitars I don't know It was on 2 different Japan made folk guitars from the seventies. Maybe the clear coat was not the same quality that we can expect from a modern PU.
I was under the impression there wasn’t much one could do to touch up poly finishes. This is really helpful.
Don't know if I will need this, but it is always appreciated that you are generous with your knowledge and experience.
You , sir , are always helpful with your info !! Love the videos !!
As always a very well explained and produced video, thanks Chris!
Chris, thanks for the great and informative videos. They make me feel really lazy for just sitting here and watching them (just kidding) I've got plenty to do, including repair and setup work.
Simple and direct instruction. Thank you.
You bet!
very helpful and necessary!
Great videos. Thank you!
Glad I found your channel! What I really like about about your channel is right to the point helpful, "I make money building and selling guitars, not off my channel" business sense. Please correct me if that is a incorrect impression. I am learning a lot of good techniques from you. Thank you!
I appreciate that!
This guitar is very beautiful.
Thanks so much!
Excellent
Good tip.
Thanks, hope I can repair my pu fretless neck with this method!
Have you ever tried fumes of solvents for smaller repair to kinda re-flow parts of a clearcoat?
It's just triggered a memory snippet but not from shellac but I think for nitrocellulose finishes.
Maybe there is one you can use for some Jobs with other finishes as well. It was like a cotton ball in a pipette-bottle to huff it at the surface.
I know this is an older video, But I am glad I found it . very helpful , Can this technique be applied while repairing the face of the guitar?
Would also love to know that... also possible on sound board? Any help appreciated! :)
I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your vast knowledge in this incredibly challenging art form. My question to you is this: Is it possible to really achieve a high gloss shine without a buffing wheel. I've tried all the 3M compounds and buffing foam pads and it just never gets there. Any suggestion would be fantastic. Thanks again, Chris. You make it look effortless and I, for one, know that it is not.
The only suggestion I can offer is to get a buffing machine. I tried other methods, but they never worked for me. When people say you can get professional results without a buffing machine, they are stretching the truth a bit.
@@HighlineGuitars Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. Thanks so much. And keep doing what you do. We really appreciate it.
@@douglassloan6831
Check out Chris' video on his machine builds. Make one that fits your needs instead of that overpriced downgraded Mac'n'Cheese stuff.
@@HighlineGuitars... am a subscriber and greatly appreciate all your tips and knowledge sharing, especially for those of us who inclined & gifted sufficiently enough to be "do it yourselfers" with just about anything and everything. lol With regards to polishing and buffing, I Do have two commercial pedestal buffers (Baldor's - 1.5 & 3hp) as I use to do custom Metal polishing and buffing... but never have done wood finishes. One of my basses (Sterling Sub 4) has the "satin" dark (maple?) finish, and I would like to buffing out to At Least, a semi-gloss or a high gloss - IF possible.
Do you have a experience with that, and IF So.... what type of buff wheels have you used and what polishing compound did you use with those wheels? I have several hundred pounds of various Bar compounds for various metals and also some for certain types of plastics.... but, nothing for wood or stained /varnished(?/?) wood.... any suggestions or shared experience would be great & greatly appreciated. Thanks again for all that you help us with.
PS: Modern Drummer Magazine did a 4 page story on my Cymbal refinishing and Mirror Polishing work back in 1994 (Oct/Nov.).
Nice video, thx. Do you ad hardener to the poly?
I don't
Great information. My chip is in a poly finish guitar that’s also painted daphne blue. Would you suggest applying the poly first to build up the chip space and then applying paint to the poly? Can paint go into poly? Thanks !
🤷♂️
Awesome! My esp japan guitar has an amber finish over it. Can I get an amber poly to use?
What do you mean by “poly?” There is polyurethane and polyester. They’re not the same. Either way, you can tint to match your desired hue.
@@HighlineGuitars Hmm not sure. Its a 2004 Esp Eclipse japan made. It is like and amber hue over the white binding. Im only familiar with nitro and not these super hard polys
With all the possible finishes out there how is one supposed to know what type of paint was used on a guitar? I've a 91 IBZ USA custom shop RG with some very healthy chipped areas. 3 layer effects. What would the clear coat be?
Have you tried contacting Ibanez?
Hi. How do you remove the hazy halo on the edges of small chips. Thanks
Try flooding the chip with thin CA glue.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks. Will try. Cheers
Hello sir. Thanks for your video from Germany! Any chance of sending you a picture of my guitar? I'd like to know if you think this method could work on the damage I ve got. Cheers!
No. I can’t offer advice based on a photo.
@@HighlineGuitars A pity. Still a big thank you for your content!
Where do you get your polyurethane from?
thecrystalacstore.com/collections/clear-top-coats/products/brite-tone-instrument-finish?sca_ref=47054.Mb3CZXZ6Od
If I'm touching-up a Fender MIM P-bass from the '90s, I assume I need to use an oil-based polyurethane?
If it has a serial number, Fender could probably tell you what the finish is.
how do you know what type of finish is on your instrument?
You ask the maker.
Be careful with CA glue on Polyurethane it can burn the finish leaving dark stains. It happened to me several times. Applying the required amount of glue in several pass minimizes the risks.
What kind of polyurethane are you using?
@@HighlineGuitars I don't know It was on 2 different Japan made folk guitars from the seventies. Maybe the clear coat was not the same quality that we can expect from a modern PU.
@@HighlineGuitars what kind is yours ?
Strip off that plastic-y finish and refinish it with nitro.😉
Except that nitro turns yellow and cracks
@@HighlineGuitars Like poly doesn't crack and come off in big flakes? I find the yellowing aesthetically pleasing.