Working with your kids remind me of working with my dad on the farm in Ohio where I was born and raised we had a had an A and B model John Deere tractors great memories
That is great showing the kids how to use tools, but most important you're bonding with the kids. A trick I found for keeping gaskets in place is spray the gasket 3M adhesive on one side and the part the gasket makes contact with. Let it set up for a few minutes. Carefully set your gasket in place and it will be where it is supposed to be when you bolt it together. Very good video! A++
Always remember when you park the tractor to always put it in neutral and snap the clutch back in. That bearing you greased only spins when the clutch is disengaged. So the less time its spinning the better for it. Because if that bearing does pile or pock up, its direct drive, there is no stopping it. Have heard stories of just just jumping off to hook up an implement and the bearing seizing up and the tractor just taking off backwards and running them over and driving until they hit something and stall. Know its a pain to do all the time, but is very beneficial for operator and machine.
Your daughter tickled me. Loved seeing her helping, and cheering! Blessings from Ohio. Just sent my old 1941 Farmall A that I learned to drive on out to Missouri with my cousin, who is gonna restore it. Been in our family since 1963. Videos on my CZcams channel.
alot of us appreciate people like you who appreciate what yall inherited old or new and takeing care of it and keeping tradition most kids nowadays want the money and sell the land and equipment alot of the old farmers are unfortuneately passing away and the younger generaton not all dont want to work the land i appreciate you for doing so i love to hear the ole johnny poppn away my dad had one and he also had a farmall to bale hay my mom had horses all that land well over 100 acers is now houses in conn i now live in texas so god speed and keep on farmn
Great content. Fun watching the video and someone taking an interest in their families heritage. I watched my father adjust the As clutch in the early 50s. I drove an A and as a kid don't remember any problems with the clutch. We also ground feed with the A, but my grandfather said the A was too hard on the stationary feed grinder. We farmed about 1400 acres. When the tractor was running sitting, I was instructed to put the A in neutral and then push the lever to re-engage the clutch. Eaglegards...
I enjoyed this video as when we farmed we had a A, B, & D John Deer tractors. When beating on the thread end of a bolt, do not beat on it with out putting a brass maul or piece of hardwood between the thread end of the bolt as you will damage the threads or balloon the bolt, making it difficult to start the nut. Be sure to replace those 50+ year old clutch springs, they tire with age. We could mow alfalfa in 5th gear with an attached International Harvester sickle mower on board. Check the rear wheel bots on the B and A as they came loose over time and in one occasion let the left rear wheel spin off the axle of the A. Keep the good videos coming. Don't get discouraged with repairs, we all go through similar learning cycles. Thanks Mogulsmoke
That's how I did my 52 B- just stack it up the way it comes out! And to take the whole clutch pully out, you have to do something with the wheel, it's in the way! You can let the air out, and use a ratchet strap to pull the tire in to get past it! That's right, the fork assembly has to come out! you pull the pin out right ahead of the oil fill cap! Pack that bearing right full, as much as you can get in it! The groves on the back side are oil slingers, line up your V"S, if it's off, the Tractor will shake! The bolts should move! Hold it, don't tighten down the nuts one at a time- when you start the nuts, when it first catches, count how many turns you turn it in by hand until they get finger tight,, and do the same for each, then go one cotter key hole each until you get a good snap on the clutch- those nuts have to be even, two can't be tighter than one- one can't be loose and the others tight- Good Job! when you coast start, use 5th, will start better!
I love tractors & tractor repair. I was born in 1951 so your tractor is 72 years old. You're blessed with some great children. Are you a farmer? What do you need with a tractor? I guess you need a bush hog to keep up with all the cutting you have to do since you have such a large property. You need to protect the tractor from the elements. Should probably cover it with a tarp at least. John Deere are my favorite tractors especially a tricycle type. Cheers from eastern TN
A lot of people forget about the clutch pulley bearing. I’ve replaced several. It always good practice to knock it into neutral and engage clutch when it’s just setting and idling. To help with roll starting you can put it in 5th or 6th gear. I bet that clutch works a lot better after cleaning and lubricating the toggle bolts.
I remember when I was 7 and I helped my Dad work on the car. I had to hold the wheel lugs in my hand so that he wouldn't lose them. So he said. I will never forget that time.
What a beast. I'll bet the first farmers that bought these tractors when they first got them would just fire them up and listen to them run - for hours.
I don't know if the metal parts of the clutch being rusty or you have the clutch adjusting bolts adjusted unevenly, but you should not have to pull back on the clutch handle to make the clutch stop. Also, you should have got the front pin out of the clutch rod when you had the yoke off. It might make life easier in the future. I was good to see a JD run. I have an electric start A and a 1940 B.
When you have rust like that it's always good to wire wheel it off . It gives better disc to metal contact and gets rid of the residual trash. Get the kids into helping, that's a good thing. Good video !
Water will enter the transmission through the gear shift lever. At least put a tarp over it. Its earned it. I hope my clutch braring is ok when I pull my clutch. I hope someone greased mine in rhe last 25 years 🤣. Thanks for the teardown.
Got lucky with that clutch. Looks in pretty good shape. When I redid the clutch in my 820, it was wore badly, tabs on the plates to almost wore threw and that clutch driver was really on there, had to make a puller out of an 1 1/2 inch plow frog because I bent everything else I tried. When it finally broke free from the tapered spline it sounded like a shot gun. Had the tractor in gear, wheels blocked and a 2 foot breaker bar with a pipe on it hanging off it before it came off. you know its tight when you can crawl a 9,000 lb tractor half way up a 12 block of wood with a bar and pipe. I used the tractor for pulling so a tight clutch is the heart of the machine.
Jordan that was greatfirst the head then the clutch great job you always need a back up tractor in case it runs use it keeps the hours down on the Kubota but a fantastic job on the deere.I would clean it up and paint it to make it last through the kids at least.
Nice video hard to believe how dry that bearing was inside You have a nice tractor coming along good ! You won't have to open petcocks when you get the battery and cables figured out. Those are tough old tractors
I’m in the middle of that same job on a JD50 that got out of hand. 1. Get that clutch pin out! Like you did. 2. That pivot for the clutch lever handle is pressed in. It’s easy to break that ear off the engine case. 3. The gear on the clutch meshes with the First Reduction Gear that you can see. On my JD50, that gear was loose and I’ve ended up finding more and more problems and taking most of the transmission apart. 4. Another spot that should be lubricated is the three pivot assemblies at the back of the clutch. It’s a pain to reassemble. 5. Shims on the crank spline is a backyard rig but the alternate is a new crank. I’d have put the shims in too. All good fun.
Hello good video enjoyed it. Would not be much put a shed where you have it to protect it from the elements, I would consider doing that. For the time being put can over exhaust and breather keep water out. Have a great day.
Enjoy your video very informative. I'm in the process of changing the clutch on my grandfather's 51 A also. Was wondering if you could post the instructions on how it goes back together. I don't want to make any mistakes. Thanks keep the videos coming
What happens with those clutch drivers is they come lose and the work on the splines. Ive heard of the splines being completely gone on the end of some cranks before. Gotta tighten the end nut pretty snug to set the tapered spline .
Make sure that arrows line up, or it will be out of balance. Leave the cover off so that water doesn't stay inside, that is the reason for all the rust. Tighten the nuts, get on the platform, a hard snap is needed to disengage the clutch.
My papaw did the same parking trick with his JD same model. He always parked it on a hill and never had a battery in the tractor. Always roll started it. Even with me on his lap, lol.
Just noticed the cover for the clutch/pulley is missing. Suggest you search for this cover that went on the pulley to keep dirt and water out of the clutch assembly. Probably can find on Ebay. It fastens on kind of like a paint can lid. Thanks
Putting the cover on is the reason for all that rust, I put one for about a year, and it was very rusty, have several others that have been with no covers for 60-65 years and do not have the problem with rust. I don't have the cover on our tractors. When you put it on the hill, use high gear.
Like Mike said, my personal experience is that the cap keeps the water in, so I'd say it depends on your location, for dry dusty environments I'd keep the cover on for dust and dirt, otherwise you can remove it to try and keep the water from pooling in it.
Thanks for the video! My grandfather, Uncle, and then dad, had an older “A” which I drove a lot on the farm. When starting on a hill or towing, a higher gear works better. I would suggest a tarp also when parking outside. On ours rain would get in somewhere around the Crank and I would find the Oil “milky”.
With the “A” model that I knew, you could start it by opening one of the petcocks on a cylinder and use the finger holes on the fly wheel to spin the motor. Once one cylinder was running just close the petcock and you are off and running. Works great if you are not on a hill.
I bet someone already said it but higher gears (ex 6th) will give the wheels the most mechanical advantage to turn the engine over just the same as lower gears (ex 1st) give the engine more mechanical advantage over the wheels. It all depends on which way power is being transmitted wether you have more torque less speed or more speed less torque. No idea the ratios on the deere but on my ford jubilee: 1st locks the tires up as it’s trying the spin the motor too fast. 2nd is pretty rough but will get it going. 3rd cranks it over smooth but it has to be rolling a few mph. And 4th cranks it pretty effortlessly but you’d have to be moving pretty good for it to start. So I would use 2nd or 3rd on the jubilee since it’s a good compromise between cranking speed and torque
Hey I have one of those John Deere's I got to get it going if it's in about 10 years I love the way that thing sounds all right hit you up later her name is Ceola
I watched the first story on the wheel rake After seeing the storys on the overseas u tubes on the same thing, you may be able to push rather than pull the rake by a 3 point in front, then rotate the whole rake.by pulling the center.bolt,pin whatever.As long as you have it front mounted on the loader, you should be able to change the angle enough to try it I have no idea how much time you can waste but think about seeing what you are raking without looking backwards
Pullies for flat belts are not really flat. The center of the Pully is higher than its edges< it has a Crown> When a belt is installed to run say a Seperator , as the belt rotates one side of the belt climbs toward the center of the pully and the other side of the belt does the same . If the pully was flat, the belt would come off unless perfectly aligned. Very njcd informative video. The Kid children add a lot and they will remember.
I think she deserves a decent clean up and new paint . This type of JD is the ones that don't wear out. They stopped making these for that reason. The engines are that good and made so well.Id put up a lean to cover it some.
All you have to do is put you a little roof up open on both ends so u can pull in one dive and it can still roll out the other side to start that how I have my barn so the tractor can roll out the other side to bump start it
If they were on it when you took them off make sure you put them back on or your going to have issues in the future if the clutch starts acting up again
Be careful driving. The steering wheel set you have with your A, is called a "tricycle" arrangement,, and they will turn over, very easy. Wide front is lots safer,, but you can widen the rear wheel settings to help a bit on the tricycle set up. We still run a 3020 with tricycle, very carefully. BUT, my brother and I are both in our 60s, so we are a lot more aware. You have a very nice video series and I love to watch.
No, tighten them evenly to adjust the clutch. Those nuts are not holding the tractor together! Snap the clutch lever back and forth as you tighten the nuts until you feel a good snap when you push lever all the way forward to engage the clutch. It’s explained in your owner’s manual.
Howdy! I rarely comment although my wife and I watch your videos regularly and I am a subscriber. I was just wondering how much mechanic training you’ve had for vehicles? You seem to do work on your tractors and trailers very well and confidently. I guess I’m really asking is do you really learn from CZcams videos how to do all these things (and thinking carefully of course) because I want to start working on my stuff too.
I have no formal training in mechanics I just like problem-solving so you could look at it that way but it’s all just one bolt at a time. Just have to look at it like that. Glad you enjoy the videos!
Just watched you cruise through the woods. Looks like you are or will be in the market for a Brush Hog attachment. When parking the tractor on a hill and leaving it unattended be sure to scotch block the rear wheels so that some youngster does not get on the tractor playing and releases the clutch. That would be a disaster if the tractor rolled away with a child at the wheel. Mogulsmoke
Two 6v batteries have more cranking power then one 12v, leaving the tractor outside your going to get water in the transmission and roll starting it use 5th gear.
Having a single 12 volt battery properly sized will get you the same if not more cranking amps and will be more reliable because of better charging and more even discharge between cells.
OK acres, the JD you have is just a toy, compared to the 2 JDs my uncle had, his tires were about 7 ft. tall, and he told my once that there was only 1 piston, it was the size of a 5 gallon bucket! Thats what you could call a johnny popper, with a big bang!
Thank you SO SO much for this video. You have no idea how much this helped us today! We really appreciate it. Our old A is back in action 😊
Working with your kids remind me of working with my dad on the farm in Ohio where I was born and raised we had a had an A and B model John Deere tractors great memories
That is great showing the kids how to use tools, but most important you're bonding with the kids. A trick I found for keeping gaskets in place is spray the gasket 3M adhesive on one side and the part the gasket makes contact with. Let it set up for a few minutes. Carefully set your gasket in place and it will be where it is supposed to be when you bolt it together. Very good video! A++
The fact you work with your kids is incredible. Makes me think of working with my dad and how it grew my skills and interests
Always remember when you park the tractor to always put it in neutral and snap the clutch back in. That bearing you greased only spins when the clutch is disengaged. So the less time its spinning the better for it. Because if that bearing does pile or pock up, its direct drive, there is no stopping it. Have heard stories of just just jumping off to hook up an implement and the bearing seizing up and the tractor just taking off backwards and running them over and driving until they hit something and stall. Know its a pain to do all the time, but is very beneficial for operator and machine.
Good to know, thanks!
Grandfather taught me that many years ago on a John Deere B; seems trivial but it's something that could save your life. Good info.
Your daughter tickled me. Loved seeing her helping, and cheering! Blessings from Ohio. Just sent my old 1941 Farmall A that I learned to drive on out to Missouri with my cousin, who is gonna restore it. Been in our family since 1963. Videos on my CZcams channel.
Awesome, that sounds great!
Thanks for your episode, the sound of an A running and skipping a beat now and then is music nothing else can make!
A victory lap after working on your tractor 🚜 is so satisfying!
Love the work! Glad to see the kids there, even for a minute.
alot of us appreciate people like you who appreciate what yall inherited old or new and takeing care of it and keeping tradition most kids nowadays want the money and sell the land and equipment alot of the old farmers are unfortuneately passing away and the younger generaton not all dont want to work the land i appreciate you for doing so i love to hear the ole johnny poppn away my dad had one and he also had a farmall to bale hay my mom had horses all that land well over 100 acers is now houses in conn i now live in texas so god speed and keep on farmn
I’m really enjoying your videos. Interesting content and seeing you being a real dad to your children is heart warming. God bless you.
Thanks! Glad you’re enjoying the videos.
Good video, I am actually in the process of doing the exact same thing right now.
Great to see the wee lass and laddie helping you. Teach them young. Well done sir.
What a job you got in to, whith out knowing how to do it in the beginning. Just amazing. And with two lovely helpers. Great job.
Thanks. Just one bolt at a time.
That's it mate get em spannering young! Great to see and making memories all the time.
Blessings from Shropshire.
I really enjoyed that makes me want to look at my clutch to see how dry it is probably needs a good cleaning two ty keep up the great videos!!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks!
Great content. Fun watching the video and someone taking an interest in their families heritage. I watched my father adjust the As clutch in the early 50s. I drove an A and as a kid don't remember any problems with the clutch. We also ground feed with the A, but my grandfather said the A was too hard on the stationary feed grinder. We farmed about 1400 acres. When the tractor was running sitting, I was instructed to put the A in neutral and then push the lever to re-engage the clutch. Eaglegards...
That’s great! Someone else mentioned engaging the clutch in neutral as well. Thanks!
That very distinctive sound brings back wonderful memories. thank you..
Glad you enjoyed it
I enjoyed this video as when we farmed we had a A, B, & D John Deer tractors. When beating on the thread end of a bolt, do not beat on it with out putting a brass maul or piece of hardwood between the thread end of the bolt as you will damage the threads or balloon the bolt, making it difficult to start the nut. Be sure to replace those 50+ year old clutch springs, they tire with age. We could mow alfalfa in 5th gear with an attached International Harvester sickle mower on board. Check the rear wheel bots on the B and A as they came loose over time and in one occasion let the left rear wheel spin off the axle of the A. Keep the good videos coming. Don't get discouraged with repairs, we all go through similar learning cycles. Thanks
Mogulsmoke
Love it Jordon, you are a maestro ! straight talking and professionalism
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the video.
That's how I did my 52 B- just stack it up the way it comes out! And to take the whole clutch pully out, you have to do something with the wheel, it's in the way! You can let the air out, and use a ratchet strap to pull the tire in to get past it! That's right, the fork assembly has to come out! you pull the pin out right ahead of the oil fill cap! Pack that bearing right full, as much as you can get in it! The groves on the back side are oil slingers, line up your V"S, if it's off, the Tractor will shake! The bolts should move! Hold it, don't tighten down the nuts one at a time- when you start the nuts, when it first catches, count how many turns you turn it in by hand until they get finger tight,, and do the same for each, then go one cotter key hole each until you get a good snap on the clutch- those nuts have to be even, two can't be tighter than one- one can't be loose and the others tight- Good Job! when you coast start, use 5th, will start better!
Awesome thanks for the advice!
enjoying watching your videos
Glad you like them!
Exceptionally good to see that you involve both kids, p'fect dad
It's awesome to involve the kids. We have 4 that are 3 months, 4,5 and 6. 2 boys and 2 girls. Thanks!!!!
Excellent dad work👍🏻🏴🇦🇺
God bless to you and your family 🙏✝️☦️
I love tractors & tractor repair. I was born in 1951 so your tractor is 72 years old. You're blessed with some great children. Are you a farmer? What do you need with a tractor? I guess you need a bush hog to keep up with all the cutting you have to do since you have such a large property. You need to protect the tractor from the elements. Should probably cover it with a tarp at least. John Deere are my favorite tractors especially a tricycle type. Cheers from eastern TN
Great you got the kids involved......Way to go kids!
Love the A!
love to hear the johnny poppers.good job
Great. Thank you. .
Great job buddy!
A lot of people forget about the clutch pulley bearing. I’ve replaced several. It always good practice to knock it into neutral and engage clutch when it’s just setting and idling. To help with roll starting you can put it in 5th or 6th gear. I bet that clutch works a lot better after cleaning and lubricating the toggle bolts.
Seems to work good so far. I will try a higher gear next time. Thanks!
Good job. Thanks for the tractor ride!
No problem. Thanks for watching!
It's a very VERY underrated channel. Keep up the great work, Jordan. Excuse me for my English(
Thanks! You’re English is great!
Awesome.....another video of the John Deere A. "Keep on poppin'"
I’m trying!
I remember when I was 7 and I helped my Dad work on the car. I had to hold the wheel lugs in my hand so that he wouldn't lose them. So he said. I will never forget that time.
good memories.
Give it some throttle! Great video as always!
What a beast. I'll bet the first farmers that bought these tractors when they first got them would just fire them up and listen to them run - for hours.
It would’ve been cool to buy one of these brand new back in the day.
I don't know if the metal parts of the clutch being rusty or you have the clutch adjusting bolts adjusted unevenly, but you should not have to pull back on the clutch handle to make the clutch stop. Also, you should have got the front pin out of the clutch rod when you had the yoke off. It might make life easier in the future. I was good to see a JD run. I have an electric start A and a 1940 B.
Good job thank you.
Looks everything is good now
Yep should last a long time hopefully.
When you have rust like that it's always good to wire wheel it off . It gives better disc to metal contact and gets rid of the residual trash. Get the kids into helping, that's a good thing. Good video !
ok Thanks!
I love that tractor. Canada😊.
Rain water can get into the transmission through the shift lever
Water will enter the transmission through the gear shift lever. At least put a tarp over it. Its earned it. I hope my clutch braring is ok when I pull my clutch. I hope someone greased mine in rhe last 25 years 🤣.
Thanks for the teardown.
Got lucky with that clutch. Looks in pretty good shape. When I redid the clutch in my 820, it was wore badly, tabs on the plates to almost wore threw and that clutch driver was really on there, had to make a puller out of an 1 1/2 inch plow frog because I bent everything else I tried. When it finally broke free from the tapered spline it sounded like a shot gun. Had the tractor in gear, wheels blocked and a 2 foot breaker bar with a pipe on it hanging off it before it came off. you know its tight when you can crawl a 9,000 lb tractor half way up a 12 block of wood with a bar and pipe. I used the tractor for pulling so a tight clutch is the heart of the machine.
Wow I’m glad mine wasn’t that tight. Glad you were able to get yours off.
Nice job on bringing it back, but pls be very careful on slope’s with these top heavy type tractors. Enjoying the channel. Tks for sharing.
Thanks, will do!
Jordan that was greatfirst the head then the clutch great job you always need a back up tractor in case it runs use it keeps the hours down on the Kubota but a fantastic job on the deere.I would clean it up and paint it to make it last through the kids at least.
I’m sure I will get around to painting it eventually. Thanks!
You need higher fences, keep those damn J. DEERE out, all over the paddocks. 😊
Job well done Jordan.
Nice video hard to believe how dry that bearing was inside You have a nice tractor coming along good ! You won't have to open petcocks when you get the battery and cables figured out. Those are tough old tractors
Thanks 👍
It needs a new key way on the crank shaf
good work 🚜🚜🚜👍
Thanks 👍
I’m in the middle of that same job on a JD50 that got out of hand. 1. Get that clutch pin out! Like you did. 2. That pivot for the clutch lever handle is pressed in. It’s easy to break that ear off the engine case. 3. The gear on the clutch meshes with the First Reduction Gear that you can see. On my JD50, that gear was loose and I’ve ended up finding more and more problems and taking most of the transmission apart. 4. Another spot that should be lubricated is the three pivot assemblies at the back of the clutch. It’s a pain to reassemble. 5. Shims on the crank spline is a backyard rig but the alternate is a new crank. I’d have put the shims in too.
All good fun.
I’m sure some of the tractors can be basket cases. Good luck with your tractor. It will be worth it in the end.
Good job!!!
Thanks!
Nice work on the tractor.
Now for a good sandblasting and powder coat paint and she'll look like a new tractor.
All in time.
Hello good video enjoyed it. Would not be much put a shed where you have it to protect it from the elements, I would consider doing that. For the time being put can over exhaust and breather keep water out. Have a great day.
It’s a possibility in the future.
Enjoy your video very informative. I'm in the process of changing the clutch on my grandfather's 51 A also. Was wondering if you could post the instructions on how it goes back together. I don't want to make any mistakes. Thanks keep the videos coming
Its the reverse of taking it apart. Thanks for watching!
Kids done a go job you need to lub all steel part bearing should be replaced your doing a go job hang in there
What happens with those clutch drivers is they come lose and the work on the splines. Ive heard of the splines being completely gone on the end of some cranks before. Gotta tighten the end nut pretty snug to set the tapered spline .
Good to know thanks!
Make sure that arrows line up, or it will be out of balance. Leave the cover off so that water doesn't stay inside, that is the reason for all the rust. Tighten the nuts, get on the platform, a hard snap is needed to disengage the clutch.
My papaw did the same parking trick with his JD same model. He always parked it on a hill and never had a battery in the tractor. Always roll started it. Even with me on his lap, lol.
Batteries are expensive.
Just noticed the cover for the clutch/pulley is missing. Suggest you search for this cover that went on the pulley to keep dirt and water out of the clutch assembly. Probably can find on Ebay. It fastens on kind of like a paint can lid. Thanks
I need to get one, thanks!
Putting the cover on is the reason for all that rust, I put one for about a year, and it was very rusty, have several others that have been with no covers for 60-65 years and do not have the problem with rust. I don't have the cover on our tractors. When you put it on the hill, use high gear.
Like Mike said, my personal experience is that the cap keeps the water in, so I'd say it depends on your location, for dry dusty environments I'd keep the cover on for dust and dirt, otherwise you can remove it to try and keep the water from pooling in it.
Thanks for the video! My grandfather, Uncle, and then dad, had an older “A” which I drove a lot on the farm. When starting on a hill or towing, a higher gear works better. I would suggest a tarp also when parking outside. On ours rain would get in somewhere around the Crank and I would find the Oil “milky”.
Ok thanks
With the “A” model that I knew, you could start it by opening one of the petcocks on a cylinder and use the finger holes on the fly wheel to spin the motor. Once one cylinder was running just close the petcock and you are off and running. Works great if you are not on a hill.
It will run with both petcocks open but I have a cover over my fly wheel because it has an electric starter
If you're on a hill, put in highest gear, roll down the hill and engage the clutch
Wow ! -- Who would have guessed ----- Safety Toe Sandals ----
I bet someone already said it but higher gears (ex 6th) will give the wheels the most mechanical advantage to turn the engine over just the same as lower gears (ex 1st) give the engine more mechanical advantage over the wheels. It all depends on which way power is being transmitted wether you have more torque less speed or more speed less torque. No idea the ratios on the deere but on my ford jubilee: 1st locks the tires up as it’s trying the spin the motor too fast. 2nd is pretty rough but will get it going. 3rd cranks it over smooth but it has to be rolling a few mph. And 4th cranks it pretty effortlessly but you’d have to be moving pretty good for it to start. So I would use 2nd or 3rd on the jubilee since it’s a good compromise between cranking speed and torque
Someone said to try 5th. I will try some higher gears next time and find one that works good. Thanks!
Hey I have one of those John Deere's I got to get it going if it's in about 10 years I love the way that thing sounds all right hit you up later her name is Ceola
I watched the first story on the wheel rake After seeing the storys on the overseas u tubes on the same thing, you may be able to push rather than pull the rake by a 3 point in front, then rotate the whole rake.by pulling the center.bolt,pin whatever.As long as you have it front mounted on the loader, you should be able to change the angle enough to try it I have no idea how much time you can waste but think about seeing what you are raking without looking backwards
Dude, I know you have work boots, but watching you work in flip-flops brings out my nervous ticks.
Pullies for flat belts are not really flat. The center of the Pully is higher than its edges< it has a Crown> When a belt is installed to run say a Seperator , as the belt rotates one side of the belt climbs toward the center of the pully and the other side of the belt does the same . If the pully was flat, the belt would come off unless perfectly aligned. Very njcd informative video. The Kid children add a lot and they will remember.
Thanks! It would be fun too run something off the pulley i need to find something.
Put something over the muffler to keep rain out.
I did, thanks!
I think she deserves a decent clean up and new paint . This type of JD is the ones that don't wear out. They stopped making these for that reason. The engines are that good and made so well.Id put up a lean to cover it some.
I sort of like it in its raw used look. That said I will probably eventually redo it.
@@HumbleAcres keep it in its work clothes. Original paint tractors are getting hard to find.
🚜🚜🚜😎😎😎👍
The 1952 m
The model A I had they recommended to put two 6 volt batteries hooked in parellel. I went through a ton of batteries before I did that
Good to know. Thanks!
Question for those in the know
Shouldn't grease have been put on the gears and spline
Thanks
Jordan, do you have a trailer for the tractor? That tractor makes me think of hay rides in the fall for Halloween.
I have a hydraulic dump grain wagon.
If you would tighten the adjusting screw on the pulley brake arm it would help stopping the pulley when you disengage the pulley.
I will take a look. Thanks!
All you have to do is put you a little roof up open on both ends so u can pull in one dive and it can still roll out the other side to start that how I have my barn so the tractor can roll out the other side to bump start it
That would be pretty cool. Maybe eventually.
If they were on it when you took them off make sure you put them back on or your going to have issues in the future if the clutch starts acting up again
Yep that's what I did.
Be careful driving. The steering wheel set you have with your A, is called a "tricycle" arrangement,, and they will turn over, very easy. Wide front is lots safer,, but you can widen the rear wheel settings to help a bit on the tricycle set up. We still run a 3020 with tricycle, very carefully. BUT, my brother and I are both in our 60s, so we are a lot more aware. You have a very nice video series and I love to watch.
Thanks for the advice and I’m glad you like the videos!
Isn't there a torque spec for those 3 castle nuts?
No, tighten them evenly to adjust the clutch. Those nuts are not holding the tractor together! Snap the clutch lever back and forth as you tighten the nuts until you feel a good snap when you push lever all the way forward to engage the clutch. It’s explained in your owner’s manual.
Howdy! I rarely comment although my wife and I watch your videos regularly and I am a subscriber. I was just wondering how much mechanic training you’ve had for vehicles? You seem to do work on your tractors and trailers very well and confidently. I guess I’m really asking is do you really learn from CZcams videos how to do all these things (and thinking carefully of course) because I want to start working on my stuff too.
I have no formal training in mechanics I just like problem-solving so you could look at it that way but it’s all just one bolt at a time. Just have to look at it like that. Glad you enjoy the videos!
@@HumbleAcres what I think I will just work out things that I don’t actually needs to function… Just in case. A bolt at a time sounds like good advice
People designed it, people built it...people can repair it.
Just watched you cruise through the woods. Looks like you are or will be in the market for a Brush Hog attachment. When parking the tractor on a hill and leaving it unattended be sure to scotch block the rear wheels so that some youngster does not get on the tractor playing and releases the clutch. That would be a disaster if the tractor rolled away with a child at the wheel.
Mogulsmoke
I have a brush hog already. That land is going to be a field. I just need to remove the trees.
Be sure to turn the front wheels towards up hill after you park it.
Good idea thanks!
Could you use the A and rake some hay with it? Also, are you atleast going to put a tarp or something to cover up the tractor?
Unfortunately it won't work with my "new" rake.
Success! Now jump into some fine tuning.
When engaging the clutch you should hear a snap if it don't snap it's too loose if it's to hard to snap then it's to tight.
Yep I think it’s adjusted pretty good
Two 6v batteries have more cranking power then one 12v, leaving the tractor outside your going to get water in the transmission and roll starting it use 5th gear.
I was curious what gear to start in. I figured some people would let me know. Thank you!
Having a single 12 volt battery properly sized will get you the same if not more cranking amps and will be more reliable because of better charging and more even discharge between cells.
At 18:00, shouldn't you have clean that area before assembly? Fine dust is an enemy?
I'm sure it'll be fine.
Is all that property yours; how many acres?
yes 18 acres
@@HumbleAcres - Cool!
@@HumbleAcres - I subscribed a week ago.
I want to see that tractor do some work. Mabey mowing or something please.
I do have a video baling with it.
Jordan you should paint the tractor
Some day
You should sand and paint that tractor.
Someday.
OK acres, the JD you have is just a toy, compared to the 2 JDs my uncle had, his tires were about 7 ft. tall, and he told my once that there was only 1 piston, it was the size of a 5 gallon bucket! Thats what you could call a johnny popper, with a big bang!
Interesting🤔
What model was that? Trying to look it up and I can't find anything like that.
in your next vid can you put it in 6th gear??
The next video on the John Deere I will.
Roll start it in 6th.
Will do thanks!
why didnt you just cut them off
ya auta give it a new paint job since its now runn good
Some day
Your property needs a tree trim up
You need to do the cleaning, all that rust and crap never helps equipment run better.
Throw those shims away and order you a new standard size clutch driver from lindbros tractor. Your clutch driver is shot.
I think the shims will work ok for now. Ideally it should be replaced.