The cell shading looked perfectly fine... I always figured Sinister was made of some metallic/oil base, especially with how his voice sounds . So the black/blue almost looks like an oil slick... It looks great... People need to use their imagination.
Hey just wanted to point out your title says Cyclops and not Mr Sinister. This video and your actual Cyclops video were very helpful and hope that other people can find the Mr Sinister one easier.
I think that you did pretty good! I appreciate the shout-out and that you used my suggestion in regards to the Tamiya tape! It's a shame that the acetone still got under some of it. I think if you would have just cut out the tamiya tape in to cover only the shape of the diamond on his chest, you'd have been better off. They oversized rectangle that you put over the diamond area and beyond probably didn't adhere as tightly to the figure, given that you're covering more torso area, and there's more curving contour shapes to contend with. The diamond area is less surface for the tape to have bonded too, and you probably could have burnished the tape down tighter that way, and that might have helped some. Regardless, you did protect most of the diamond, and as you found out painting the inside of the cloak collar, it's very easy to accidentally get paint on places that you don't want to, so the tape is a good idea. I'm so glad that you're using it now. When you get more experienced in using it to mask off things, you'll get better and better. Just like with your painting. I think you did a nice job on Sinister's hair, by the way! You truly couldn't tell that it wasn't the factory paint in those touched up areas! You are getting better. Here's another tip for you. You can mask off an action figure's cape (without removing it) by covering the cape with a ziplock bag, and taping the edges of the bag with painter's tape, tamiya tape, etc. This can be done to do painting, priming, clear coating, etc. For example: I have placed an entire figure into a ziplock bag, clasping it at the figures neck so that only the head is sticking out from the ziploc bag. This will ensure that the rest of the figure receives no primer, paint, or clear coat--just the exposed head (or whatever area you want to work on). This way, I can just clear coat a figure's head, arm or whatever, without adding extra clear coat to places I don't want it. One light spray coat of semi-gloss clear coat over your figure would restore it to looking like an original finish. Those matte areas will then blend in with the rest of the figure's luster. What happens is that the acetone eats away the clear coat as well as the tampo paint, so you're left with matte plastic beneath. Since action figures typically are made up of plastics of different hardness and type, those differences are much more noticeable without the clear coats. Clear coats not only protect paint, but they also serve to unify the look of the plastic, since the clear provides similar luster everywhere. Even a light coat of semi-gloss clear will bring your figure's look to a more even and unified looking state, returning the "like-new" luster to the figure.
Thanks! Yeah I think I definitely should have spent a little more time making sure the tape was fully down and sealed off. I do have another type of masking I want to try on my next opportunity as well! And your zip lock bag trick makes total sense so thank you for the additional tips as always, Loston!
@@ComicallyToys You're welcome, man! I always think that it's a good idea to try different things. One of the drawbacks to Tamiya tape that I've ran into when using it is that it's so very low-tack that you have to be careful not to touch the sticky side with your fingers or that can be enough to keep it from sealing down to a rounded surface properly. I recommend burnishing it down by rubbing on the back of the tape after it's been applied. That will help it adhere a little better. The ziploc method does really work well, and you can use things like plastic shopping bags or even comic book bags as a way to cover up large parts of figures when priming or painting. It saves on masking tape, and it protects what you don't want to get primer or paint on. It's also a very fast way to mask something off.
Thanks I'm glad you found it helpful! Unfortunately Jean Grey is a lot more complicated than any other figure. I'm still seeing if I can make something though!
Mr Sinister looks good. As Loston Wallace mentioned, if you do clear coat it, I'd definitely recommend covering the cape and collar beforehand. Also, if you do decide to seal it, you could always panel line him first with a Gundam marker. That would look pretty nice on this figure, imo.
Thank you so much! Yeah I definitely should have been taping figures from the beginning so hopefully people continue learning from my mistakes. But I agree I think panel lining with a Gundam marker would make Sinister pop in an awesome way! Thanks for the suggestions and your support!
@@ComicallyToys i haven't try it with jubilee yet since i am waiting for your video.But I did followed your video on woverine and it turned out perfect. Thanks
That's awesome to hear! I plan to redo my Wolverine since I did it with acetone. I know I can do it much better with the brush cleaner. I'll be looking at Jubilee this weekend!
wipe down with alcohol or wash under the sink with regular dish soap to help remove the mold release and other oils. This will help the tape adhere properly. Mr. Hobby matte clear for top coat.
I think it turned out pretty darn awesome! I wonder how hard it would be to find a matching red for inside of the collar. And you should 100% do a clear coat follow-up!!!! I have no idea how that works and would love to see it.
Thanks! Maybe I'm hard on myself or maybe I'm just raising the bar on myself! But yes I'm definitely going to be investigating a good and easy way to clear coat!
I gotta be honest. One of my biggest problems with the Marvel legends line is actually not so much. The cell shading, as they're trying too hard to emulate the comic books. When really if you want to make them look like the animated series. I think their bodies should match the animated series. In other words, stop giving these characters, big heads and small bodies. The animated series gave them small heads and big bodies, big and bulky and wide and stuff like that. I think that's what you should do because a lot of these characters end up looking more like teenagers and less like adults. So if you want to do the animated show right, give them the right size heads and the right size bodies, then take off that stink and sell shading. Because you don't really need salsating on action. Figures because action figures do pretty well around the right light. The cell shape and just makes it look weird on certain poses. But again, that's my opinion, which I'm very strongly about. But the visualization just doesn't look right with big heads and small bodies. It looks wrong. That's not how the animated series looked. I know the comics are completely different and everybody seems to be focused more on comic books nowadays.But what about the show?What about the design at the show gave us?Why can't we get those figures to sing
Interesting point about cartoon accuracy. I think what may be tough about it though is that the cartoon wasn't always 100% accurate to itself. Low budgets and all so sometimes the animation took quite a dip. But with that said, Mondo is making pretty accurate looking cartoon figures, but they are not 1/12 scale unfortunately.
The cell shading looked perfectly fine... I always figured Sinister was made of some metallic/oil base, especially with how his voice sounds . So the black/blue almost looks like an oil slick... It looks great... People need to use their imagination.
💯 Totally agree!
Hey just wanted to point out your title says Cyclops and not Mr Sinister. This video and your actual Cyclops video were very helpful and hope that other people can find the Mr Sinister one easier.
Thank you so much! I am SUCH a good haha I just fixed it!
I think that you did pretty good! I appreciate the shout-out and that you used my suggestion in regards to the Tamiya tape! It's a shame that the acetone still got under some of it. I think if you would have just cut out the tamiya tape in to cover only the shape of the diamond on his chest, you'd have been better off. They oversized rectangle that you put over the diamond area and beyond probably didn't adhere as tightly to the figure, given that you're covering more torso area, and there's more curving contour shapes to contend with. The diamond area is less surface for the tape to have bonded too, and you probably could have burnished the tape down tighter that way, and that might have helped some. Regardless, you did protect most of the diamond, and as you found out painting the inside of the cloak collar, it's very easy to accidentally get paint on places that you don't want to, so the tape is a good idea. I'm so glad that you're using it now. When you get more experienced in using it to mask off things, you'll get better and better. Just like with your painting. I think you did a nice job on Sinister's hair, by the way! You truly couldn't tell that it wasn't the factory paint in those touched up areas! You are getting better.
Here's another tip for you. You can mask off an action figure's cape (without removing it) by covering the cape with a ziplock bag, and taping the edges of the bag with painter's tape, tamiya tape, etc. This can be done to do painting, priming, clear coating, etc. For example: I have placed an entire figure into a ziplock bag, clasping it at the figures neck so that only the head is sticking out from the ziploc bag. This will ensure that the rest of the figure receives no primer, paint, or clear coat--just the exposed head (or whatever area you want to work on). This way, I can just clear coat a figure's head, arm or whatever, without adding extra clear coat to places I don't want it.
One light spray coat of semi-gloss clear coat over your figure would restore it to looking like an original finish. Those matte areas will then blend in with the rest of the figure's luster. What happens is that the acetone eats away the clear coat as well as the tampo paint, so you're left with matte plastic beneath. Since action figures typically are made up of plastics of different hardness and type, those differences are much more noticeable without the clear coats. Clear coats not only protect paint, but they also serve to unify the look of the plastic, since the clear provides similar luster everywhere. Even a light coat of semi-gloss clear will bring your figure's look to a more even and unified looking state, returning the "like-new" luster to the figure.
Thanks! Yeah I think I definitely should have spent a little more time making sure the tape was fully down and sealed off. I do have another type of masking I want to try on my next opportunity as well! And your zip lock bag trick makes total sense so thank you for the additional tips as always, Loston!
@@ComicallyToys You're welcome, man! I always think that it's a good idea to try different things. One of the drawbacks to Tamiya tape that I've ran into when using it is that it's so very low-tack that you have to be careful not to touch the sticky side with your fingers or that can be enough to keep it from sealing down to a rounded surface properly. I recommend burnishing it down by rubbing on the back of the tape after it's been applied. That will help it adhere a little better.
The ziploc method does really work well, and you can use things like plastic shopping bags or even comic book bags as a way to cover up large parts of figures when priming or painting. It saves on masking tape, and it protects what you don't want to get primer or paint on. It's also a very fast way to mask something off.
Thank you for the shading removal video! Could you do a shading removal video with the X-Men 90s VHS Jean Grey Version?
Thanks I'm glad you found it helpful! Unfortunately Jean Grey is a lot more complicated than any other figure. I'm still seeing if I can make something though!
Mr Sinister looks good. As Loston Wallace mentioned, if you do clear coat it, I'd definitely recommend covering the cape and collar beforehand. Also, if you do decide to seal it, you could always panel line him first with a Gundam marker. That would look pretty nice on this figure, imo.
Thank you so much! Yeah I definitely should have been taping figures from the beginning so hopefully people continue learning from my mistakes. But I agree I think panel lining with a Gundam marker would make Sinister pop in an awesome way! Thanks for the suggestions and your support!
Love your videos on cell shading removal. Hope you do jubilee
Thank you so much! My plan is to cover every cel shaded figure released! Some are just trickier than others. Have you tried this yourself yet?
@@ComicallyToys i haven't try it with jubilee yet since i am waiting for your video.But I did followed your video on woverine and it turned out perfect. Thanks
That's awesome to hear! I plan to redo my Wolverine since I did it with acetone. I know I can do it much better with the brush cleaner. I'll be looking at Jubilee this weekend!
Nice
wipe down with alcohol or wash under the sink with regular dish soap to help remove the mold release and other oils. This will help the tape adhere properly.
Mr. Hobby matte clear for top coat.
Thanks for the tip!
I think it turned out pretty darn awesome! I wonder how hard it would be to find a matching red for inside of the collar. And you should 100% do a clear coat follow-up!!!! I have no idea how that works and would love to see it.
Thanks! Maybe I'm hard on myself or maybe I'm just raising the bar on myself! But yes I'm definitely going to be investigating a good and easy way to clear coat!
Looks better shaded
I agree!
If you're taping use painters tape, the blue stuff it just works so much better
Thanks! I'll have to see about trying that sometime too and seeing how it compares.
I gotta be honest. One of my biggest problems with the Marvel legends line is actually not so much. The cell shading, as they're trying too hard to emulate the comic books. When really if you want to make them look like the animated series. I think their bodies should match the animated series. In other words, stop giving these characters, big heads and small bodies. The animated series gave them small heads and big bodies, big and bulky and wide and stuff like that. I think that's what you should do because a lot of these characters end up looking more like teenagers and less like adults. So if you want to do the animated show right, give them the right size heads and the right size bodies, then take off that stink and sell shading. Because you don't really need salsating on action. Figures because action figures do pretty well around the right light. The cell shape and just makes it look weird on certain poses. But again, that's my opinion, which I'm very strongly about. But the visualization just doesn't look right with big heads and small bodies. It looks wrong. That's not how the animated series looked. I know the comics are completely different and everybody seems to be focused more on comic books nowadays.But what about the show?What about the design at the show gave us?Why can't we get those figures to sing
Interesting point about cartoon accuracy. I think what may be tough about it though is that the cartoon wasn't always 100% accurate to itself. Low budgets and all so sometimes the animation took quite a dip. But with that said, Mondo is making pretty accurate looking cartoon figures, but they are not 1/12 scale unfortunately.