15 Shiplap Don'ts | What NOT to do When Installing Shiplap
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- čas přidán 2. 08. 2024
- Shiplap Ahoy! There are 15 essential things not to do when installing shiplap. Many are guilty of doing most of these. In fact I have been shocked to see so many CZcams shiplap videos guilty of committing these atrocities. I'll admit, some of these are my own opinion, but I think I could make a pretty good argument for each one of them. Ultimately when you do you project, if it turns out exactly how you want it then that makes it perfect....to you. But, in general these shiplap tips and tricks will impress all who look at it and put you in the category of a professional finish carpenter.
If you have any other shiplap ideas, feel free to leave a comment and let me know. If you disagree with any of my "Don'ts", let me know as well in the comment section. I welcome of love, hate, and anything in between.
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Ryobi 18 Gauge Brad Nailer: rivr.link/LH9-aqUp9z
Ryobi 16 Gauge Finish Nailer (tool only): rivr.link/LH9-SHpA1D
Porter Cable Circular Saw: rivr.link/LH9-JpRaZd
Johnson 4 foot level: rivr.link/LH9-AWZtYH
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Putty Knife Set: rivr.link/LH9-VNCXZM
1 1/2 inch 16 gauge finish nails: rivr.link/LH9-5vOThA
1 1/2 inch 18 gauge brad nails: rivr.link/LH9-Hf16Ii
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0:00 Intro
0:33 Don't keep your molded baseboard
0:55 Don't forget to mark your studs
1:05 Don't forget to level your first piece of shiplap
1:18 Don't end your boards in between studs
1:49 Don't start at the top
2:03 Don't cut your outlet holes too small
2:37 Don't use wood
3:02 Don't use MDF
3:28 Don't use narrow shiplap
3:57 Don't use constructions adhesive
4:18 Don't use short nails
4:35 Don't use the nail gun in the wrong direction
5:42 Don't leave edges of shiplap exposed
6:08 Don't waste time on 1/16 of an inch
6:32 Don't use faux shiplap
8:36 Conclusion
Some of these "Don'ts" are controversial....I know right?!?! I want to know what "Don't" you disliked the most? If you don't have one then I want to know what "Don't you liked the most or found most useful.
They didn't talk about older homes with bulging or wavy walls..
You bring up a great point. That would have been very helpful had we done that. I guess if you have bulging or wavy walls then it’s good to use some thing that will bend. Typically you’ll have a certain amount of give with wood and even MDF. Maybe in these particular instances a little construction adhesive might help as well. Thanks so much for watching.
#1 is Don't, Don't wear saftey googles. Remember kids "safety 3rd" nets you a glass eye or a permanent Halloween costume for life, as a ONE EYED PIRATE. Also see all my other Don'ts on your other vid.
@@jjohnson8977 Eyes are like kidneys, you only need one. Am I right or am I right?!?!?!?
@@DudeSawdust and nads, one of those will get the job done too
Great video. Thanks for passing along these great shiplap tips. I have done some tongue and groove siding in the past and many of these tips apply to that siding as well. Keep the content coming!
Thanks! Shiplap if the wall video is coming next. Interestingly enough, I could not find any other CZcams video doing a similar shiplap Don’ts thing. Only a couple were kinda similar but scattered in approach.
Don't #16 - Don't let the seam of each row of shiplap land on the same studs. Randomize the length of boards so your seams don't create a straight line. Keep it random like laying a floor.
Literally
Yep noob mistake
199% for sure, they were showing that in the background and not telling you NO -lol and I was cringing. If it’s a small stand alone wall, go for it. If it’s a display wall and it looks like a little kid put it up 😅 I’d say move that seam around! But if your brain is off and you like the straight line in the middle of your wall…well… you like who you like then…🎉
I almost refused to watch the rest of the video based on #16 alone.🤣 I was like, "WTF, dude?" Of course you want to hit studs when and where you can, but doing it for EVERY seam right up the wall? NFW.🙄 Otherwise, a solid video.
I like to use the plastic box extensions for the outlets. It comes with the longer screw and keeps the combustibles away from the electrical, fire code in mind.
You’re the second person to tell me this and you’re both totally right. I still need to add those extensions. 👍
Dumb,not a chance in hell that will cause a fire.
I freaking love you guys. You got my subscription. I appreciate your humor guys and seriousness at the same time.
Thanks so much! We’re glad to have you join the Dude Sawdust family. I see you’re a CZcams success. I’ll have to check out your channel. 👍👍👍🤓
What an awesome vid!! Very informative and helpful!! Glad I came across this! Thanks guys!! 🤙😎
I’m glad you enjoyed it. We had a lot of fun making it and was surprised no one had done a video like this yet. I have 2 other shiplap videos that I put out recently that you might enjoy as well👍
Good job fellas! My brother hit me up about a job he was working. He spoke on installing some ship lap, he’s never done it. I said, “ dude you gotta peep some videos on that, not b.s., but pro vids. I researched the situation with him, and POW! We happened upon you guys. Job well done gentlemen. A lot of trades still hide their secrets. I’ve been in the custom carpentry field since 2009. It’s a niche though, doorknobs, yes, the ever frustrating, zero tolerance door knob mind hump. The presentation you guys put forth was poetry in motion. Loved it, gave me a T boost. Thank you
So glad we could give your day a lift! We had a lot of fun making the video. I'm glad the info was useful and valued. I really appreciate your comment, it put a smile on my face. Hope you come back for more videos, one just dropped today!
I bought raw rustic shiplap from reclaimed wood. So I didn’t have to worry about a perfect look. I did decide to place the edges only on the stud and to use trim because of this video. It was very helpful.
So glad we could help. I bet your project looks amazing!👍👍😎
Old wood attracts bugs, good luck.
Great tip: DON’T FORGET TO PRIME AND PAINT ANY SHIP LAP, TRIM, ETC., BEFORE HANGING IT! It is so much crisper and cleaner to paint these pieces first, install to the wall and go back with a nail filler and touch up the holes with paint!
Don’t always just go for wide ship lap - it depends on the application. If you’re doing a chair rail with a vertical wide ship lap 2/3 up the wall and want horizontal ship lap on the remaining 1/3 of the upper wall, use the thinner ship lap for the horizontal 1/3 upper half. Aesthetically it’s more pleasing. I’m a contractor and I install this for clients often. It depends on the size and space of your room or wall as well. Don’t just always go for wide ship lap. If your ship lap is on all walls, use caulk in the corners for a seamless look not trim, however, if it’s ONE wall, yes, use the trim to cap it off at both ends. Using faux ship lap is fine when going up 2/3 of the wall (use liquid nails, a brad nail and apply even pressure) capped off with a 3” sanitary chair rail and a 5 1/2” sanitary OR 5 1/4” colonial base moulding comes out perfect.
Great tips! it's definitely a topic with controversial points of view. Thanks for the insightful comment!
@@DudeSawdust Thank you! Your work looks great. Love your tips as well. I love seeing people posting videos to help home owners and even other contractors. Thank you for posting your video.
Any suggestions on using wood shiplap on the wall above a jacuzzi tub in the bathroom? Should I seal it with outdoor polyurethane after I paint it? Not sure how to seal it from the water! Help?!
@@sarahm803 usually a semigloss paint is good enough but to give it total protection I would use a water based polyurethane. If the paint is white then you might get a slight yellow tinge. To avoid the yellow tinge then the best brand to use is General Finishes. The link below is to a video where I used it. Click the video description to find the product link. Good luck!
czcams.com/video/1hzaKLbwPSc/video.html
@@sarahm803 I agree with Dude Sawdust! You can also put (3) good coats of semi-gloss on your ship lap! And don’t forget to caulk the baseboard trim at the top where it meets your ship lap and the bottom where it meets the floor to give a water tight seal. You can then go back and paint over the caulk after it dries if you’d like.
Great video!! I know I’ll be using all these tips it I ever get around to shiplapping any of my walls! Haha Also, love your co-star, Dusty Bottoms!!!
Thanks!
Very helpful video with Clear instructions! Thanks!
Glad we could help! Thanks for watching
Good video guys. I’m doing it this weekend. Great tips.
Glad to hear it. Good luck with your project!
thanks guys! so glad i saw your video before i put some up. i'm doing my awful ceilings. wish me luck
So glad we could help! Good luck with your ceilings. Treat yourself to a nice neck massage when your done. 👍
Great video-BUT I totally disagree about the MDF vs Wood. Man, give me well milled wood every time. Thanks again:
I knew that would be a controversial stance. Thanks so much for your viewership and comment 👍👍😉
Excellent video. Great humor, subbed.
Thanks! We’re glad to have you 👍👍
Few things, if you’re using MDF you can get it in lengths of 22’ or more depending on the mill and it is definitely worth getting the right sized board for all your walls so that you can avoid joining boards where possible. Also, you can avoid having to go back and fill all those nail holes if you shoot into the tongue of the board before putting on the next one, of course for the first board you need to face nail (gets covered by base) then the rest of the way up just be careful not to leave nails sticking out and you’ll have no nail holes visible 👍
This was great!! Tip #2 really helped me. I would get so disappointed in myself even thoug in not a great at being handy
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed it 👍👍🤓
Excellent video guys. Very helpful.
Glad we could help 👍👍👍
Thanks guys! Good video that answered my question.
So glad we could help! Thanks for watching 👍👍👍
Doing my basement walls, no door or windows to contend with, I'm starting at the top and getting a nice level, full board to start, everything else stays straight and my seams are tight. I can trim the bottom board for width or floor unevenness and then cover it up with some base molding and it looks fantastic. With an open, black painted ceiling, that is easier and more noticeable, than what's hidden behind the base board along the floor.
These are great tips! Thank you!
Thanks! I’m glad I could help. 👍👍👍
#1 should be "Don't like up all your seams (like you did)" It should be installed like wood flooring flooring, tile or bricks with the seams staggered.
The follow up video is all about a seamless shiplap wall. Yes, not the traditional method. But it’s what we preferred to do. Thanks for watching 👍👍👍🤓
I agree about staggering the butt joints, but if you do a good job filling and sanding the joints, it shouldnt be a problem.
I'd say it's better to start at the top. That way you can come down to the bottom and any inconsistency in level will be hidden behind the new base board trim. Plus you can cut up a little bit to leave room if you might eventually redo the flooring.
Very good point. I’m hearing a lot on both sides of this issue. Thanks for watching!
That's what caulking is for, hides a millions sins.
@@chrisfelts1943 ....and I have many
@@DudeSawdust I always start at the top with a full board, using a laser to make sure its level. I hate finishing at the top with a narrow 2 inches board that has half a inch difference from left to right
Can’t go wrong with that laser👍
I think they look better with staggered joints instead of all the same. All in all a helpful video.
Thanks for watching!👍👍😎
Genius advice and good looking. Thanks dude sawdust and friend.
Thanks! And thanks for saying I’m good looking. I don’t get that a lot from my subscribers but it’s refreshing.
Very honest information. Thank you.
Glad we could help! Thanks for watching
LOL I used revolution ply for my shiplap, it looks amazing :)
True professionals right here. They literally covered everything (except the finishing). Excellent advice guys.
I need to find about a million more subscribers just like you. Thanks!
Doing an 8' section behind my TV with a floating shelf below and a narrower shelf above with lighting. I plan on putting 3/4" plywood strips on to the studs to have the shiplap sit out from the wall....think that will look ok? Thanks for your video, very helpful.
I"ve read your comment like 10 times trying to picture what you are describing when referring to the 3/4 inch plywood strips. If you have any pics to help me understand I'd be willing to give you may take. Feel free to email me at dudesawdustchannel@gmail.com. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe if you haven't already!
Thank you, that was funny and educational
You forgot to mention if you want a pro look after painted, quickly sand every board before installing. This will ensure you knock down any deficiencies from the primed mdf boards
That’s a a really great point. I’ll have to keep that tip in my back pocket👍
Absolutely! As a painter, I prefer to prime, sand & even put a first coat on before hanging (it’s a PITA to get the paint into grooves once installed!)
Love the acronym👍👍
First rule of finish work is to start from the top and work your way down. Start with a level line at the ceiling first and work off of that be it commercial or Residential. Floors are very seldom level ask any cabinet , door or tile contractor. Crown and base are there for a purpose going all the way back to plaster work. When you install a door do you level off of the floor or the Top? If you have ever worked in a home that is pre 1940's vintage you guys are going to have a nightmare. I agree with many things you say but I was taught by tradesman from a family of tradesman and my Great Grandfather was a finish Carpenter who built items into homes and built or made the things you buy from Home Depot today. He built and fit custom woodwork into very extravagant homes and buildings. He abhorred putty and fill and made his own only to cover nail and screw holes out of the same wood and dust that he built the item out of. My Grandfather followed in his foot steps and I learned from them both. Don't start ship lap or anything like that from the bottom. End at the bottom and always leave gaps under the moldings and trims for expansion and contraction from moisture and temperature differences.
Great ideas, thanks for watching and contributing!
I am not arguing starting from the top is a bad choice, but can't you comply with the spirit of the door example by ensuring the top of your first bottom board is level? Is starting at the bottom conceptually that different from installing baseboard and then a lot of basecap?
@@georgebush6002 Yes when dealing with looks or Aesthetics of the final look of the work it makes a big difference that will show at many horizontal lines. Tops of doors and windows. Distance between line at ceiling and bottom of crown molding. The first line at the bottom of the first board and the bottom of the crown molding.
When you install the wall materials, it is always best to start at the top. If you are just slapping drywall on it is not as critical unless you are dealing with weird dimensions. You have to work with what you have because nothing is built perfect and everything settles and moves over time. A flaw at the base or floor just carries all the way up through the building and good finish contractors know how to work with and hide those imperfections.
Do yourself a favor and start at the top or be real good at math and calculate the exact dimensions to cut things to even them out in the vertical dimensions as well as keeping everything level.
A laser level set in the middle of the room and projected to all 4 walls is your friend.
Set it near the ceiling and draw a line around the room at the same height.
If you ever saw a commercial building interior done including a false ceiling you would understand.
I have had to walk into nightmare's and made them look good when I walk out.
I have been in homes where the floor slants an inch in 10 ft. Start at the floor there and see what it looks like by the time you get to the ceiling. Oh and the door guys made sure the top of the door was level and split the difference on the bottom to hide the slant. There was a dropped ceiling installed by someone in the past to hide the mess.
Polish a turd and sell it. The World of flipped houses.
@@desertdan100 Spoken like a true tradesman!
start at the top so your final cut is at the bottom if it needs to be cut down it won't ruin the asstetics.
Thanks for this video, very helpful! I am installing over top of drywall, could you explain how to case around my doors after the shiplap is installed? My shiplap will cause a gap between the door frame and casing. Do I try to notch the casing somehow? Add fillers? Or something else? Thanks!
Great question. I dealt with this same issue when I did my shiplap wall a video I posted. Here is a link so you can see how I handled it: czcams.com/video/PJ8AxuVVMqI/video.html
Hope this helps!
I did shiplap and used 4x8 birch board. I cut the individual sizes using my table saw. Sanded each board and painted accordingly. Much cheaper, but takes more time.
And it’s the most satisfying way to do it. Great job👍👍
Great advice thank you!!
Glad we could help! Thanks for watching 👍
Goood advises!! May I know if I’d like to build shiplap in my entryway on first floor but it’s near the beach which is pretty humid, do you suggest me to go with MDF still?
Also, what’s the staud mean ? Do I really need to mark the staud before I start to put the shiplop on? How to mark those staud on the wall?
Thank you so much!!
Thank you for this tips. I have a question, so the shiplap that you’re using, it cannot be installed on a kitchen wall? Bc is MDF?
Hey Guys- great video. I'm prepping to install shiplap in my garage. Aside from using the hose to occasionally clean the epoxied floor, there's no moisture, but I'm curious if you would recommend MDF or wood for this application? I'm thinking MDF, although I could do the bottom 1' in wood and the rest in MDF, assuming there are no issues with fit at the transition. I seen base trim where wood is thicker than the exact same profile in MDF.
Thanks for the question. I say only use one material. I wouldn’t want MDF anywhere near water so I would go with wood. I don’t know where you live but if it is at all humid I would be also concerned about the how MDF would be affected since most garages are not climate controlled.
Using baseboard in a garage is an interesting topic I had not considered. Since you have the epoxy floor then chances are your garage has a nicer visual appeal and baseboard might be the cherry on top. I say bring your spouse out there and ask her what she thinks if you are unsure. A second opinion often helps.
@@DudeSawdust Great advice! Thank you! I should clarify - my baseboard reference was to prior experience replacing base in a room of our house a long time ago. Since then I tore out every inch of base and case, replacing it all with base/case I made myself. We wanted a modern look and couldn't find what we wanted locally, so I made it myself. I used primed poplar boards - 1x6 for the base and 1x4 for case. I cut a 5/16" dado the length of each board, about 3/4" below the top edge of the base. After spraying, the groove ends up right at 1/8". And while I certainly do like my garage to look good, I won't be installing baseboards out there :)
Can’t go wrong with poplar. I bet it looks great.
Yes, I was I little confused at what you were talking about but I took a stab at it anyway 😉
Question: If I want to install shiplap on a wall that has SlantFin baseboard heating do I completely remove the SlantFin and install the shiplap behind it or do I cut the shiplap to fit around the baseboard heater? If I cut around the baseboard heater and I ever need to replace it due to rust or whatever I may not be able to remove the heater without prying off the shiplap or leaving a significant gap during installation so that I can pull the SlantFinn out. Thanks.
Great videos! Thank you. What if you want to install shelves on top of the shiplap? Would you need to add the adhesive to the boards first or is nailing them to the wall and then nailing the shelves to the ship lap enough? Thanks.
I would probably do home made floating shelves with pockets holes and drill right through the shiplap into the studs...if I were to do it
Agreed! Absolutely do the ship lap and then add your shelf. If you ever want to take the shelf down, you can then fill in the pocket holes, sand and paint without having to redo your ship lap!
Thanks for this guys.
Glad we could help!
Your tips really helped. I just did my bathroom. I do have a question about moisture. Should I seal it? I bought American Planking. It looks real rustic.
I’m glad we could help. Seal it? If it’s your back splash then I would probably seal it. I’m curious what a flick of toothpaste would do to unsealed pine.
Great video guys
Thanks so much!
I’m installing horizontal wood paneling 1/3 up the wall in dinning room of my diner (several color stains) and not sure what that’s called because I’ve typed several things here and don’t see anything the same lol I started with cedar fence post from Home Depot- I cut top 1” off and milled through planner before staining so they do look real good - starting to install the 120 (6 foot x 5.4 inches) this afternoon
This is a great idea. I have no doubt they look fantastic. Keep up the great work and thanks for watching!
as an electrician thank you for the explanation on outlets. i hate trying to make the outlets look good
Thanks! One thing we messed up on was not explaining the need for the electrical box extenders.
yes for combustable materials supposed to sit flush. adjustable boxes are nice in bathrooms and kitchens to help with that.
hey guys quick question about navigating a wall with a gas fire place bump out. We want to shiplap the six ft section on either side of the fireplace as well as the side walls of the fireplace bump out, the only concern is it is a rock face facade. What do you recommend to do in the corner where the shiplap meets and how do I go about cleaning the edge that meets the front with the rock facade? Thanks!
Great question. It sounds like the rock face facade is likely not a straight edge to bump up against. If it is curved and/or jagged then I recommend using a contour gauge to make custom cuts so the shiplap butts up against the rocks without looking to janky. I would probably caulk the seams so there is a smooth transition. Contour gauges are not expensive and you can get them on Amazon. Also there are several youtube videos explaining how they work. You will need something like a scroll saw, jig saw, or band saw to make the custom cuts. I'd love to see how it turns out. Feel free to send me pics to my email at dudesawdustchannel@gmail.com
Well, I’m happy to say I’ve only done one “don’t”
On this list. And really, I’m ok with it. I’m currently installing Shiplap in my bathroom, here’s the thing, it’s an extremely small bathroom, and only toilet with small vanity, I’m talking airplane bathroom size. I figure I could hack in some sort of plexi glass shield behind the vanity in front of the Shiplap. It sees such little use, I thought it would be worth it.
I say do it 👍.
Did you guys fill in the nail holes with spackle or did you leave nails exposed? I was gonna shoot a shorter 18ga nail thru the tongue to hide it, then shoot longer nail 15ga through bottom of the board. This was a good video thanks! 👍
Great video thank you. Question: we have a 20-foot wall. When installing the shiplap, should we caulk the seams? We want to paint it after and I’d rather not see the cuts.
Depends on which seams
If you want wood shiplap to look good, just prep it properly by filling and/or sanding imperfections, then prime, and paint it all prior to installing it, its that simple. Some customers will not accept MDF especially in wet/damp areas like bathrooms or outdoor areas. Cool video, good tips 👍
Great advice! Thanks for watching.
1) What did you use to fill the nail holes? 2) Is it ok to paint the MDF after. I read most come primed.
You should always paint the MDF. It comes primed so it is ready to paint. And it looks great! I cover what I filled the nail holes in the video I released right after this one, Here is a link: czcams.com/video/PJ8AxuVVMqI/video.html Thanks for watching!
Hey! How do you like to stagger your boards when you have a long wall? Great video!
I say let the artist in you take over. There is no wrong way. Just play around with it, step back and if it looks good then go with it. I would just try to avoid putting too many seems in one area.
I want to redo a paneled bathroom (without having to take the walls down) but this bathroom has 3 entry doors. I haven’t found a video yet that tells you how to handle 1) trim around doors and shiplap-with you saying trim is best 2) if you replace the trim around the door with shiplap underneath, won’t you see it in the door frame then? I’m so confused. Please help!
czcams.com/video/PJ8AxuVVMqI/video.html Check out this link to another video we did installing shiplap. We go over this exact question. I hope this helps:)
Great video!
Thanks so much!
Hey guys, just saw this. Thanks for the tips. Your numbers 9 and 8 talk about MDF vs wood with MDF being the preferred. Then you said if it’s in an area near water (kitchen, bathroom…) to NOT use MDF. So, I am building out a camper van and want to use shiplap on walls and ceiling. It’ll be properly insulated, but what type of shiplap would you recommend for that setting?
Thank you.
This is a great question that I haven’t thought of. A camper van is tight quarters and Wood holds up better with dings. Also wood is lighter than MDF by a considerable amount. So I would go with wood.
@@DudeSawdust ok, great. Thank you so much.
Very helpful!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
This is great! How about if you are putting ship lap on the wall to our right. Do you need to make corner cuts or just but them up against each other?
When you say corner cuts I assume you mean mitered cuts at 45 degrees. This in theory is a great idea, but far too often the walls are not a perfect 90 degrees from top to bottom so your mitered cuts will likely not look good. I would personally put a piece of thin trim to hide all of the seams. But you can also just butt them up against each other and that would look nice as well. It's a little more difficult because all of your horizontal lines need to match up with each other. The trim just makes it easier and hides any mistakes.
So to you want all the seems on the end of he boards to be in a single line or do we want offset on where boards meet. Like a pattern or something?
Great video
Thanks!
This guys are awesome.
Thanks! I’m going to go ahead and add you to our list of favorite people
Glad I just viewed I’m about to do my bathroom
Ty
I’m glad we could help. Good luck on your project 👍👍👍😎
I am doing my first shiplap install at my home. We are tearing out old paneling beforehand. They are internal walls save for one. I'm going to redo the insulation on that one and add sound deadening in the other two. Do I need to do drywall first, or can I install the shiplap directly to the studs? Since one wall is exterior, I'm going to use wood instead of MDF.
This is a great question. Personally I prefer the wall drywalled first. But that is not mandatory at all.
If you dont have drywall and you are going right on to the studs, do you still say no construction adhesive? Thanks.
Question-can you paint the ship lap you are using? We’re wanting the the shiplap look on our fireplace, but painted a navy blue. Or since we’re painting, would it be better to use wood?
You can use wood or MDF. MDF is perfect for painting. You can get them pre-primed.
What is considered ‘faux’ shiplap? I ha w the premise mdf boards but also have 1/4” plywood. Ready to get started!
Great question! When I refer to faux shiplap, I'm referring to boards that do not have the "dado" joint edges. Faux shiplap is just paneling (such as 1/4 inch plywood) that is applied to the wall with gaps created by using some sort of spacer. Shiplap boards can be purchased with the dado edges or even milled yourself (but buying is a lot easier). The dado joints are what create the gaps because they are about an 1/8 inch longer on one side so when they are applied to the wall on top of each other there is an even and sharp looking gap. I hope this is helpful and clear. I'd love to know how your project turned out!
I like you guys !
Thanks! We’ll add you to the list of people who like us. 👍😎
I have a question! I’m going to be doing a small accent wall with MDF shiplap. On the other side is an under-stair storage area that has a door into a bathroom. The wall is covered in cheap veneer paneling now. Do I take down the paneling, or just install over it? And will the storage area adjoining a bathroom mean I need to use wood? Thanks! Really appreciate these videos!
Thanks so much for your question. Sounds like you have a situation with many factors to consider. Without laying eyes on your wall and area, I feel a bit handicapped answering this question. But as far as taking down the paneling...I would remove it unless its presence somehow aids in making any trim and panels line up well with proper/attractive reveals (if you are not sure what I mean by reveal, think about how a door jamb, trim, and door line up with multiple steps rather then everything being flush). Typically this isn't the case and you can work well with any option. When in doubt, I'd just remove the paneling as long as it doesn't cause damage to the wall that you aren't in the mood to fix.
Next question...do you use wood? Well if the MDF is going to be subject to moisture at all then yes...use wood. If not, then I love MDF for shiplap. I prefer the non-distressed look, but that's just me. Wood moves, expands, contracts, etc. I like homes with that perfect new vibe. Unless I was living in the woods in a homestead situation, living off the land, feeling all outback like, then I'd go for wood to match my farmhouse table and one strapped overalls.
I hope this helps. The most correct answer is what fits your style. Good luck on your project and thanks so much for watching. I hope you come back soon and keep watching Dude Sawdust videos. Cheers!
@@DudeSawdust it absolutely helps, thank you!
You did not mention extension rings for the receptacle boxes, so I assume that you did not use them. (If you did, mentioning them would have been a good idea) NEC 314.20 requires that electrical boxes shall be installed so that the front edge of the box (or box extender) will not be set back of the finished surface more than 1/4". This is to ensure that sparks stay within the box and will not contact combustible material.
Excellent point. We failed to mention this but I cover it on on of my other videos as full repentance. Many people brought this up. Mistakes happen. Thanks for watching!
Sorry for misfire. Great video. I am doing a ceiling room at my cottage. The ceiling had hideous tiles. Am i okay to nail to the strapping thats there. Strapping is 18inches apart.
Fastening to the strapping would be an ideal choice, assuming there is drywall attached to the strapping. I wouldn't attach shiplap directly to any studs or strapping without the drywall. Thanks for watching!
I am doing a pool house, it will be enclosed with a small split AC/Heater unit. But during summer days, the big sliding glass doors will be open all day and we have high humidity in MO. Would you use primed pine shiplap or still use MDF shiplap. Or any other recommendations?
Sorry for the late reply, I just stumbled upon your comment....don't know how I missed it. MDF doesn't get along with humidity. I have been to MO and the summers are brutal. I would go with wood (primed pine) in your case. Being in California it is easy to forget about the humidity factor. We probably should have talked about that more in that video,
There is waterproof mdf available. Trycoya, I think it's spelled, and there's another one. It's used for outdoors and wet areas.
Thanks for the info. I just looked up Tricoya and it sounds really cool. I'm curious if there are any review videos out there about this product.
MDF? The perfect look? The reason people like myself select reclaim wood or rough cut wood is to get character. It depends on what look you are going for, modern contemporary using or a nice wood grain that has a rustic look with knots and defects, the distressed look. One thing is for sure I would never put that much MDF into my home. Once that wall starts getting dings they are going to stand out because it's such a perfectly flat wall. It would be impossible to sand MDF to restore. Repainting it would be a big problem. When working with MDF it makes a huge amount of dust. I would use MDF for base but not for a whole wall.
I think I should have mentioned in the video that if your wall is prone to dings then think twice. Great suggestion!
@@DudeSawdust I just watched property brothers, it looked like they used mdf for ship lap on a renovation, it looked pretty good.
I do the same thing when I see any shiplap on a video or picture. Truth is there are lots of different ways to accomplish a variety of styles of shiplap. For some reason some people think shiplap can only be done one way. This video of mine has generated a ton of polarized comments because I took a stance rather than seem middle of the road with my presentation. But in the end the only right way to do shiplap is what my wife likes. Happy wife, happy life!🤣🤣🤣. Thanks for watching 🤜🤛
Natural with Character for me
@@tedsell1455 I just finished a shiplap surround for my wife's soaking tub. I used rough cut pine fence boards and ran it up to the bottom of the window above the tub. We both love the way it looks. I paid $3 per 6ft board, qty 30 x $3 = $90. Sanded with 80 grit using an orbital sander just enough to take some of the too rough stuff. Then primed both side with Kills to seal and reduce any warping. Painted with Bher semi gloss white. Some boards bled yellow but I will reseal. Some were cupped, no problem I put the arch facing out. Too much crown? I cut them shorter to reduce it. I like putting seems randomly. They were not all straight but nobody would even care because it's rustic and not perfect like me. I'm thinking of using light gray caulk to caulk all the seems carefully just to give a little more refined look. It sure beat paying $12 to $14 per board which would have been about $400.
OOP's I used 4 different widths of shiplap. So I get a barn board effect. I also use butt blocks to join 2 board together. Just like in Carval planking on a wooden planked boat.
From a craftsman like yourself I bet that looks really cool. Great job 👍. I’d sure like to see some pictures. And thanks for watching.
I have a room to demo and I want to use shiplap paneling. The current walls are finished with the cheapest wood appearing paneling available. It’s all going to be gone, new & improved insulation, vapor barrier.
Do I need to install drywall over the studs then shiplap over the drywall? Or just shoot the shiplap into the studs?
Great question. I hear this one more often then I would have thought. The answer is: Shiplap over drywall. Good luck with your new project!👍👍👍
Can I add ship lap to a stud wall without wall covering ? Or would you recommend adding wall board then the ship lap
It goes studs, then dry wall and then shiplap...in that order. You don't need anything between the drywall and the shiplap. I hope that helps:)
What is recommended to use to affix shiplap if you have a plaster wall? I don't think a brad nail will work in plaster. Please send help! lol
I would put a skim coat of dry wall (aka joint compound) over the plaster to smooth out the wall. (I did a video on skim coating you should watch). Once you do that the shiplap can go right over that wall much easier. If your wall has studs then nail it into the studs. If your wall is cement then you’ll have to use construction adhesive. I hope this helps. Good luck and I’d love to hear how it goes!
great info. what do you think of pvc shiplap in restroom
Great question, I say stay clear of it as it looks cheap. Stick with wood in any room near water.
I appreciate the tips. I still think I will use real wood for my cabin.
In Maine, we use Knotty Pine, the more Knots the better, also blue streaks are most desired!
Plain shiplap is just that, PLAIN.
What you like is most important 👍
hey guys, im going to do a renovation soon but im a little confused about what you said.. Is faux shiplap the same as using MDF for shiplap? Which material should I use?
Faux shiplap refers to paneling that doesn’t have the rabbet joint edges. The rabbet edges create the gap between the boards. If you go with just paneling then you’ll have to create your own gaps with a spacer. The reason why people use paneling (faux shiplap) is because they save money using a very thin board which leads to a very cheap look. So to solve that you would go with a thicker board, but if you are going to use a thicker board then why not just buy actual shiplap boards that already have the rabbet cuts. I’ve learned to just pay the extra cost because in the end I’ll appreciate the aesthetic. You can buy shiplap in MDF or wood. But I’m a fan of MDF in areas where water/moisture will not be a factor.
@@DudeSawdust Thank you so much! You are so incredibly helpful. Youre right, a thicker board would look much better and if the tongue and groove option is not too expensive, then I will be doing this too. :D
@@dowhatmakesyouhappy7002 glad I could help. I hope I earned your subscription and return viewership 👍
I’m doing a wall in our office. Wouldn’t you suggest staggering boards instead of straight lines on your walls where boards meet on ends. Didn’t see you mention placement
It really comes down to personal preference. Staggering boards can look great but you'll have to use construction adhesive. Honestly, I find that most people like staggering boards then the seamless look.
@@DudeSawdust construction adhesive just if doesn’t land on a stud..?
If you are staggering your boards and they don’t end on a stud then construction adhesive may be needed. I try to avoid it if I can just in case I want to redo the wall for something else later.
Can you put nails on the groove edge of you don’t want exposed nails or don’t want to use filler?
absolutely, this is a popular way of doing it
how do you go about avoiding the last row of shiplap at the top not fitting between the second to last row and the ceiling?
I cover that in our other shiplap video czcams.com/video/PJ8AxuVVMqI/video.html
Also you might want to check this video out too that highlights a great tool for this job:
czcams.com/video/uqQurUB1xF4/video.html
Lol! calls mdf real shiplap....gotta love these utube experts 🤣
My floors, walls and ceiling are shiplap pine the real stuff. I still have not stained or painted them and I am sick of looking at all of this being the same.Others love it. Should I stain it or paint it or just seal it? There are many character flaws.lol. This was used and some pieces did not sit well and some had seams broken. What to do? 7 inch wide.600 sq.ft.home. The size of a single wide mobile home.
This is very interesting. The floors are shiplap? with the gaps? If that is true it seems like it would be a nightmare for dirt getting in the gaps. If you floor is pine then I would replace it since you should never use soft wood for flooring. Go hardwood or even btter is vinyl plank that looks like wood because it is cheaper and looks great and is super durable. But since you space is small it might be very cost effective to go with hardwood.
Walls and ceiling? If you want to mix it up then painting the walls or just one of the walls to create an accent wall would probably look cool. Find a color that you like. Shiplap on the ceiling looks cool if it is not on the wall. Walls and ceiling is too much shiplap. I would take the shiplap off the ceiling and texture it and paint it white. These are just design ideas so play around with it. Its a good idea to bring in your friends and family and bounce ideas off of them.
couple of quick questions
1) if u paint over the shiplap will it ruin the lines?
2) what length (top to bottom) of board do u reco?
3) if i have crown molding i will replace it do i use trim at the top as well or use more shiplap to seamless the top and bottom where trim/baseboard is?
4) i saw u "leveling" your first piece, but what if its not level but flush on the floor or where your baseboard is?
5) my bedroom wall I want to shiplap is 15 feet. i think biggest board is 12 feet. how would u buy to cover a 15 foot long wall?
1. lines? You have to be semi careful not to fill the horizontal gaps with gobs of paint. But it's really not a problem. It will look fine as long as you don't go crazy with the paint.
2. I would use the 7-8 inch wide boards for medium to large spaces. If you are doing a small space like a mud room then the 5-6 inch boards might look better.
3. I had this discussion with my wife just a couple of days ago. Yes, I would not use crown molding with shiplap. I personally like to trim the top and sides/corners
4. Leveling: this can be a tough one. The important things is all your lines (gaps, baseboard, trim) run parallel. If your floor is not level with baseboard you can do one of toe things. You can add base shoe to cover any gaps which is the easiest. You can also scribe the baseboard to the floor. I have another video about shiplap tools. In that video I recommend a scribing tool that you can use to do this. You just need a cutting tool as well and it takes a little skill.
5. If you are going for the standard (most popular) staggered shiplap look then you just stagger your boards at different lengths. If you are going for the seamless look with one long 15 foot board then you can fill the gap at the 12 foot mark as I talked about in my other shiplap video. But since putting out that video I have discover a better way to fill the gap: (paint the seam, then sand, paint again, then sand, paint again, then sand. After 3 times you should have no seam. If you have to do it a 4th time the go ahead. I have not yet done a video about this process but hope to someday.
I hope this helps. Good luck on your project and thanks for supporting my channel!
@@DudeSawdust thanks for the detailed fast reply. do u have a trim to recommend? i will prob rent or buy a spraypainter for the paint process and try to avoid overspraying. first time doing this but I have just redone a bathroom myself lols so I think this is within my skillset.
@@dreaderus I just get stuff from home depot or lowes. I prefer around 1.5 to 3 inches wide. You kinda have to consider the size of the space. I don't do anything fancy that is moulded, I just go square looking with maybe a slight round over on the edges. The important thing is it looks good to you, step back and just stare at it and if you dig it then that's all that matters. Just my opinion.
no worries and thanks. do u recommend painting the wall first the color u plan to paint the shiplap to avoid seeing the color after is this not a concern @@DudeSawdust
I plan to get this should i over buy? my wall is going to be 8feet tall, 15 feet wide, but I also have to buy the trim for the tops and sides. is there a calculator that can be used once u measure the exact space to determine how much to buy
Space is 8 feet high by 15 feet wide, but I will surround the shiplap with a trim on the top, and both sides, and bottom per your directions
Question here: I have house with uneven lath & plaster wall. Do I have to get them level first??
It all depends on how unlevel it is. Try putting a long straight edge on it and see how much gap is created. If it seems a bit much then yes, it would nee to be more level.
Will 18g brads work fine for shiplap over drywall? or should I use 16g? thanks
18 will work just fine. Use it if you have it
Do you leave a space at the bottom first row between the floor & the first board, like you do with drywall?
I don't think it matters much since. It will be cover by the baseboard anyway.
Thanks!@@DudeSawdust
My wife is asking for vertical shiplap as a Wayne’s coating. Should I use construction glue?
Vertical shiplap is a great idea that we didn't cover in the video. There really is no other way to do vertical shiplap without some sort of adhesive so in this instance I would use it. Construction glue is really great stuff. It only becomes a problem when you are remodeling later and realize you have to replace your dry wall.
It gets under my crawl, 🤔 well I must say that’s the 1st time I’ve heard it put that way 😂😂
Yeah, I'm not sure why I said that. It's funny and interesting what people pick out of these videos. Thanks for watching
You said it cannot be used for a laundry room. Ours is a laundry/mud room 22’ x 8’. Can we use it?
Great question. I just recommend not using MDF shiplap in areas that may be subject to water exposure. So assess the area and if there are any sinks nearby that commonly are used then use MDF with caution. Thanks for watching!
I’m wanting to do one 9’x8’ wall but my house is finished with all molded baseboard. Any good sources or pointers on how to incorporate those?
My best advice is to give up on the molded baseboard. When it’s all said and done you won’t even notice that the baseboard in the room doesn’t match completely. I went through the same thoughts that you are having right now. I’m so glad that I just went with a square baseboard on the accent wall. If you try to work around it you’re finished product just won’t look good. Of course, the reason for the square baseboard is because you likely will want to put trim up in the corners of the wall. If you don’t use trim then you can keep the molded the baseboard. On the other hand, I feel strongly that it won’t look very good without trim.
Dude Sawdust Great, that’s exactly what I’ll do 👍🏼 keep up the great videos
Thanks 🙏
Pull the molding off, shiplap floor to ceiling, then put the molding back on top of the shiplap. It looks the best.
Quick question… which gauge brad nails did you all use? 18 or 16 gauge?
We used 16 gauge Brad nails but 18 would work just fine too. 👍👍
What kind of trim should you use on open corners?
MDF or wood is fine
Should you paint the shiplap first then put it up and then touch up? Or put the shiplap up first then paint?
I won't take a hard stance on either but I prefer to install and then paint.
in the corners, should i put a piece of trim on both adjoining walls, or is one good enough? what about putting 1/4 round in the corners?
That’s a great question. Quarter round is just fine. It all depends on what look you are going for.
@@DudeSawdust thanks for taking the time to reply.
I listen to finish carpentry who is excellent in trim. His video on shiplap says to start at top. The other way around you would end with a board cut at the top which is an eyesore.
I watch his videos too. He has a lot of experience and great advice.
Some of these are comical however other were very useful such as the proper direction to hold the brad gun.
I'm glad you enjoyed it. The brad nail gun tip is must and if you know what direction the nail can go then you'll know where not to put your fingers!
So you say to use mdf shiplap for cleaner lines but it can’t be used in bathrooms. What should I use for my bathroom then? Wood?
Any time you are applying shiplap near water I would use wood.